Communicating with a car’s ECU (Engine Control Unit) can help to resolve problems and keep the vehicle in good working order. If the engine management light (EML) appears on the dashboard, then the reason why can be found via the ECU. Sometimes, problems may not activate the EML, but the ECU will still have them logged. And the ECU can also determine when the engine needs servicing and whether specific equipment is working properly.

What is an OBD2 scanner?

So how do you communicate with the ECU to find out all of this information? Simple, through a scanner or fault code reader plugged into a communication port on the car. This communication port has been standardized and is now called the OBDII port. OBD stands for on board diagnostics, and the number II means it’s the second generation. It’s usually below the driver’s side of the dashboard, but can also be in the center console area.

OBD2 became a standard connection in the US from around 1996. In Europe, it became standard on gasoline (petrol) cars from 2001 and diesels from 2004.

How I tested the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners

All of the scanners I’m testing consist of a small plug/dongle, which communicates with a mobile phone or laptop via a Bluetooth signal. They are generally much cheaper than dedicated scanners with their own screens.

From the seven Bluetooth scanners I have tested, they all have similar setup procedures. The first stage is to download an app to your phone or laptop. Some of the scanners have their own dedicated apps. Others have a choice of several third-party apps.

The next stage is to plug in the Bluetooth device into your car’s OBD2 port. Then switch on the ignition and open the app on your phone or laptop. I found establishing a connection between the device and my phone or laptop was very straightforward.

I’ve been involved in car diagnostics for several years. So I was keen to know whether these devices at the cheaper end of the market are any good. Read on to find out more.

Best Bluetooth OBD2 Scanners At A Glance:

• Best Overall & Best Value: vLinker MC+. RRP: $59.99 Buy / £59.95 Buy.
• Editor’s Choice: OBDeleven. RRP: $88.34 Buy /£69.95 Buy.
• Approved: TopDon TopScan. RRP: $69.99 Buy / £59.49 Buy.

vLinker MC+

Award: Best Overall & Best Value
Pros: Clear display to show what’s happening, which helps with connecting to an app.
Cons: Wide choice of third-party apps, so it may take time to find the right one for you.
RRP: From $59.99 Buy now / £59.95 Buy now

Chinese electronics manufacturer vGate produces a long list of scanners. The vLinker MC+ promises to be easy to use, and it is. The front face has a clear display of labelled lights to tell you whether it’s connected and if there’s a power supply problem. There’s even a connect button to help pair with an app. Several third-party apps can be used on a smartphone (Android or iOS) or a Windows-based PC or laptop.

Depending on which app you choose, the level of information can be very in depth with the vLinker MC+. I used the app called Car Scanner. It helped to correctly diagnose a parking sensor fault on an Audi A3. It provided an in-depth check of the car’s systems. And it could display live data to monitor engine values, calculate fuel consumption and even acceleration times.

For more information about the vLinker MC+ scanner, be sure to check out the full review.

OBDeleven

Award: Editor’s Choice. 
Pros: No-nonsense fault code scanner that’s simple to use.
Cons: Better suited to VAG, BMW and a few other makes.
RRP: From $88.34 Buy now /£69.95 Buy now

One of the smallest in this best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners test, this proved difficult to unplug from the OBD2 socket on some cars. Luckily, a keyring attachment helps and a universal extension cable will also fix this problem.

A dedicated app is used with this device, which is tailored to some makes, such as VAG, BMW and Rolls-Royce. When tested on two vehicles, it sometimes managed to identify it, but otherwise requested the VIN to be entered.

The entry-level free app is basic, but purposeful. It scans for faults and in some cases, performs an in-depth scan of several systems (e.g. audio, parking sensors and airbags). Identified faults are listed with relevant fault codes and further information to help.

There’s not much else to the free app, other than identifying fault codes (on some of the makes we’ve mentioned, live data is available). If you want extra features, such as one-click apps to change the settings on the car or test systems, it costs. Either upgrade to one of the Pro packages (annual subscription from $53.29) or buy credits from $2.19.

With a two-year warranty and a straightforward scanning app for free, the OBDeleven is a no-nonsense device that does its job well.

Check out Rob’s full review of the OBDeleven here.

TopDon TopScan

Award: Approved
Pros: Excellent dedicated software for finding faults.
Cons: Doesn’t work on 32-bit Android phones.
RRP: $69.99 Buy now / £59.49 Buy now

TopDon have been making car diagnostic tools for professional mechanics for many years, but this Bluetooth scanner appeals to the DIY market. A dedicated app needs to be downloaded to a mobile phone, although I found some trouble here with incompatibility for 32-bit Android phones (needs 64-bit). This problem didn’t arise with any other apps and scanners. For iPhones with iOS 10 or later, an app called TopGuru is required, but we didn’t find this out until I’d contacted the support center. Luckily, both the US- and China-based centers responded quickly.

Otherwise, the app is quick to install and to communicate with the TopDon scanner. A scan for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) found one concerning parking sensors. Only two other scanners found this (OBDeleven and vLinker MC+). Vehicle identification didn’t work in our case, so we had to choose the vehicle, starting with the manufacturer. I liked the assortment of Hot Functions, such as resetting an oil service and a new battery. However, there’s no live data stream, freeze-frame or dashboard, so you can’t view live engine data. And the app is only free for one year – pay $49-$99 for another year’s subscription.

Fore more details on the TopDon scanner, check out Rob’s full review here.

OBDLink CX

Pros: Free app, but also works with other apps, such as BimmerCode.
Cons: Very small device, so difficult to unplug from OBDII port.
RRP: From $79.99 Buy now  or £78 Buy now

This is the entry-level Bluetooth scanner from American-based OBDLink. It’s also one of the smallest devices, so it can be tucked inside a glovebox or center console to be stored on board the vehicle. It’s so small that I struggled to grip and unplug it from the OBDII port. However, UK supplier Gendan sells a 20cm-long (8in) extension cable that fixes this problem.

There’s a small user guide that’s easy to follow, including a QR code to download a free app. Once installed on a phone, simply start your car’s engine, plug in the device, launch the app and wait. It took a couple of attempts to connect, but it was quick. The app is very straightforward with a simple menu system.

The diagnostics aspect is quick to respond, but this failed to spot an existing fault relating to parking sensors on a car.

I liked the dashboard option, which provides useful readings for engine rpm, speed, MAF pressure, battery voltage and fuel. This can be combined with freeze-frame data should a fault be logged. And the app can log a trip, calculating fuel consumption and mileage. Or live data can be displayed as a graph.

There are more features with other more expensive scanners from OBDLink, but this CX version is a useful introduction.

OBDLink CX full review.

OBDLink MX+

Pros: Free app with enhanced diagnostics.
Cons: Not much better than the much-cheaper CX.
RRP: From $139.95 Buy now / £129.95 Buy now

OBDLink’s top-of-the-range Bluetooth scanner packs some punch and comes with lots of free features. It’s also the most expensive one in this test. It requires an app on a mobile phone or even a Kindle Fire, which is quick to install. Connecting the two is also quick and hassle-free. Simply plug in the scanner to the car’s OBDII port and open the app. And a button on the scanner helps if it doesn’t work. A short user guide makes it all easy to do.

The dedicated app from OBDLink is also very easy to use. There are only seven menu options.

The depth of diagnostic analysis, especially using enhanced diagnostics is impressive and it found a parking sensor fault that hadn’t raised an EML.

Other features, such as live data, can be analyzed in a number of ways. A Dashboard provides instrument readouts. A Graph function shows plotted readouts for comparisons. A Map function helps to data log a journey to find data parameters and calculate MPG. And there’s a Performance function that calculates acceleration times.

The MX+ is worth the extra money over the CX if you want to dig deeper with enhanced diagnostics. Otherwise, save yourself $40 and buy the cheaper CX.

OBDLink MX+ full review.

UniCarScan UCSI-2100

Pros: Big choice of free dedicated and generic apps.
Cons: Wide choice of apps may seem bewildering.
RRP: From $79.99 Buy now / £54 Buy now

Made by WGSoft of Germany, the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 is a compact Bluetooth OBD2 scanner that works with a wide range of apps. And these apps are available on cell phones (iOS and Android) and a Windows-operated PC or laptop. Some are dedicated to a particular make of car, such as BMW and Opel. Others are generic, including WGSoft’s own app called ScanMaster.

Once plugged into a car’s OBDII port, connection to a phone or laptop is fast. Depending on which app is used, the level of detail is quite comprehensive. In ScanMaster, for instance, there are nine menu options, although some features require an in-app purchase. Trouble codes are quick to be revealed, but in testing they failed to find a parking sensor problem. Freeze-frame data is a useful feature for showing values when a fault arises. And live data helps to analyze engine data to further diagnose a problem.

As a device that can be stored inside a glovebox for use in an emergency, and to also be used to check for faults at every service interval, this is a useful and cheap solution.

Here’s Rob’s full review of the UniCarScan scanner.

vLinker FD+

Pros: Supported by a wide range of third-party Windows, Android and iOS apps.
Cons: Works with a wide range of apps, so you may have to test a few to find the right one.
RRP: From $49.99 Buy now / £42 Buy now

Manufactured by vGate of China, but available worldwide. A compact Bluetooth scanner that has a display on the face to tell you it’s connected, once it’s plugged in. Removing it from the OBD2 socket in a car can be awkward due to its size.

Choosing which third-party app to use it with can be a minefield. There’s a huge choice and also some dedicated apps. Pairing with a cell phone or Windows-based laptop is straightforward and it all works smoothly. Depending on which app is used, you can expect lots of in-depth information on faults and what they mean. Plus, live data can be viewed to analyze a potential problem.

A good introduction into the world of diagnostics and live data retrieval.

vLinker FD+ full review.

How to buy the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners

Deciding on the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanner for you can seem like an impossible task. There’s no easy answer. Start by thinking about what you want from one of these devices. If it’s simply to diagnose an EML when it lights up on the dashboard, then all of the scanners tested will do this. However, some offer in-depth diagnostics for specific makes of cars, which helps, but only if your car is included. So if you have a BMW for instance, I recommend buying one of the scanners that works with the BimmerCode app.

Don’t assume that all the scanners will communicate with your car. Newer cars (from 2017 onwards) use a CAN-Bus (Common Area Network) system for communicating with the ECU. This is a type of OBDII protocol, which some of the scanners cater for. If this applies to your car, check with the manufacturer or supplier of the Bluetooth scanner before buying. I found everyone I contacted was very helpful.

All of the scanners tested will reset an EML by clearing fault codes. You may want more reset functions, such as resetting an oil service light. In some cases you’ll have to pay extra for this. In others, it comes part of a pro package or an annual subscription.

And the same applies to extra features, such as live data, calculating MPG and a dashboard display. Useful features or gimmicks? Only you can decide.

For more information on diagnostics, visit: 

• OBD1 vs OBD2
• OBD2 Reader vs Scanner
• OBD2 Explained
• OBD2 ECU Tuning

Love modified cars? We host a number of performance car events throughout the year. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more information on what’s coming up next. 

The post Best Bluetooth OBD2 Scanners In 2025 appeared first on Fast Car.

Whether you’re a seasoned pro or taking on your first-ever track session, these top 10 tips will help you make the most of your day while keeping safety and fun a top priority.

New for Japfest 2025: Saturday Track Day – 12th April

Before we dive into the prep tips, here’s something you don’t want to miss! Japfest 2025 now kicks off with a full track day on Saturday 12th April. You’ll get exclusive access to the Silverstone National Circuit, the perfect warm-up ahead of Sunday’s main show.

• Track sessions: Available to all skill levels. Exclusive to Japfest attendees.
• How to book: Click here for all the details.
• Need tips on mastering the circuit? Check out our Silverstone Track Guide.

Now, let’s get you and your car prepped for the ultimate track experience!

Track Insurance

Track sessions at events like Ford Fair, Trax, and Japfest rarely have incident. But, investing in track insurance for the day gives total peace of mind should the worst happen. Specialist insurers like REIS can provide track day cover that will pay for damages to your car, whether the accident is caused by you or by someone else on the circuit hitting you. Track day policies are available for you all UK tracks including Silverstone at events from Fast Car Entertainment. Some insurance companies can even add track day cover to your exisiting policy, and it’s usually not too expensive so its worth asking about for extra peace of mind.

Enjoy Your Track Session!

By following our track session prep tips, you’ll ensure that both you and your car are ready for an exhilarating, safe, and enjoyable track session at Silverstone. Preparation is key, so take the time to get everything in order and make the most of your day on the track. Happy driving!

The post Track Session Prep Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Japfest 2025 is going BIG this year — with two days of track action at the legendary Silverstone National Circuit! For the first time ever, the weekend kicks off with a full track day on Saturday, 12th April, giving you the perfect opportunity to push your car to its limits before the legendary Japfest show on Sunday. Whether you’re chasing lap times, testing your setup, or just out to enjoy the thrill of Silverstone’s National Circuit, this is your ultimate track experience.

Saturday Track Day: Unleash Your Car’s Potential!

The track action plays a huge part at events like JapFest, Ford Fair, and Trax, with Silverstone’s National Circuit in full swing throughout the day. And now, for the first time at Japfest, Saturday is all about you and the track. Book your spot early to enjoy multiple sessions on the iconic racetrack — the perfect chance to test your car’s limits and fine-tune your driving skills. Whether you’re a seasoned track addict or giving it a go for the first time, this is your chance to make memories on one of the UK’s most iconic circuits.

No doubt, many of you take the opportunity to head out onto that hallowed tarmac to enjoy your very own car at full throttle in a safe environment alongside fellow enthusiasts. Well, if you are, you need to read this first. We grabbed racing instructor Alex Nevill, to guide us around each part of the track, so you can nail that perfect lap during your time on track.

Just off the A43 in Northants, Silverstone is easily reached from the M1 and M40, and track sessions at our events start at just £40 at Japfest, Ford Fair and Trax!

Silverstone National Circuit

Fast Car Entertainment events Japfest, Ford Fair, and Trax make use of Silverstone’s famous National Circuit. This 1.64-mile track is the same layout as used by many of the country’s leading motorsport series, including the British Touring Car Championship, meaning you’ll be able to really put your modified car through its paces.

The National Circuit  also features in many of Silverstone’s most legendary and iconic corners (including Copse, Maggotts, Brooklands, Luffield, and Woodcote) that form part of both the new and old F1 layouts – giving you the opportunity to follow in the tyre tracks of truly great drivers both past and present!

Relevant content – Don’t forget to check out our guide to preparing your car for a track day, as well as the ultimate guide to braking on track. 

Track Guide to Master The Silverstone National Circuit 

Entering the track

Your track time at Japfest, Ford Fair or Trax will start with you lining up in the track assembly area near the medical centre. With so much going on around the show, the traditional pit lane entry is not in use, so follow the signs for ‘Track Time’ and you will be guided to track entrance behind the Medical Centre building.

When it’s time to go you will be led out by a Safety Car, joining the track at Brooklands corner. DO NOT overtake on this first slow lap. Use the steady laps to familiarise yourself with the circuit and to keep an eye on your temperature gauges, making sure everything is as it should be before the full-throttle laps to follow.

The Safety Car will stay out for one or two laps, or until the track staff are happy everyone is good to go, and when it leaves the track at the exit just after the Luffield corner (note, this is where you will exit at the end of the session), then your track time is under way…

1 – Copse Corner

The first corner in our Silverstone National track guide is Copse – the fast right-hander after the start/finish straight that famously made the headlines when Lewis Hamilton and Max Verstappen collided at the British Grand Prix in 2021.

As you approach the corner, you’ll want to brush the brakes before turning in as you approach the ‘50’ board on the driver’s left. On the inside of the corner, you’ll see two red markers to the right of the kerb; the first of these is your apex.

You’ll want your right tyres on the kerb here, and you should be hard on the throttle by this point, letting the car run out to the left-hand side on the exit until your left tyres are on the kerb. You shouldn’t be going any further than that, as otherwise you’ll be exceeding track limits, which is frowned upon.

Once you’ve exited Copse you’ll want to gently bring the car over to the driver’s right to set yourself up for Maggotts.

2 – Maggotts

The next corner up in our Silverstone track guide is Maggotts, and it’s a bit of an oddity on the National Circuit; it’s the point at which the National layout deviates from the GP circuit, cutting through the middle before joining the Aintree corner that leads onto the Wellington Straight.

Maggotts is an awkward but crucial corner; it doesn’t really matter how well you do it, it’ll always feel slightly underwhelming. You must be wary of that though, as it may lead you to push harder through the corner and over-drive, which will hurt your exit speed and cost you crucial time on the Wellington Straight.

There’s a slight curve to the left before the corner itself, so you’ll want to be on the right-hand side of the circuit as you approach. Gently turn in to the left; not to take the corner, but to position yourself properly for the right-hander that follows.

You can use the sausage kerb on your left as your brake marker. Make sure you’re in a straight line as you hit the brakes, or your lap could be ending in the gravel trap.

It’s a short braking zone, so make sure you’re hard on the brakes to get it slowed down for the corner in time and you’ll probably want to downshift to third gear. Because the road has turned slightly to the left and you’re braking in a straight line, the car will already be quite tight to the corner.

A tip here is to make sure you keep tight to the kerb until you’re off the GP circuit and onto the cut-through section, at which point you can start to release the steering and let the car run out to the left-hand side as you build speed and enter the Wellington Straight.

3 – Wellington Straight

Now it’s time to gun it. As you enter the straight, you’ll most likely be to the left of the track, but as you power down the straight, gently make your way over the right-hand side to better position the car for the next corner at Brooklands. But keep an eye in your mirrors for faster cars as you do so.

4 – Brooklands

After the Wellington Straight you will be heading towards the Brooklands complex.

Here is the best overtaking opportunity on the circuit. It’s a very late apex for this corner, which means looking long towards the apex is very important.

There’s usually a board to the driver’s right indicating that you need to turn left; turn just after that but make sure you’re looking ahead to your apex, otherwise you’ll find yourself too tight to the corner.

The most common mistake for newcomers and inexperienced drivers is to turn in far too early here, which not only compromises your entry to the next corner, but often sees you end up straight across the track and off onto the infield.

You’ll notice some tarmac to your left where the old GP circuit used to join the current layout; the apex is just beyond where the two tracks merge. It can be tempting here to stay wide and cut back in for the apex. It’ll feel faster on the exit, but as it’s a very short straight afterwards it won’t compensate for the longer line you’ve taken through the corner itself.

5 – Luffield

Luffield follows almost immediately after Brooklands. As with Maggotts it always feels a little underwhelming, and the key is not to over-drive it. The car will be on the right-hand side of the circuit after Brooklands and there’s no time to move over to the left, so it’s a very shallow entry to the corner.

Focus on smooth braking and turning, keep tight to the inside kerb, and be smooth with the throttle through the corner and the exit. If you can hear tyre squeal, you’re losing time. Tyre squel at the start of the corner, it’s either because you haven’t braked enough or you’re being too aggressive with the wheel. If it’s tyre squeal from mid-corner onwards, you probably need a little less throttle.

6 – Woodcote

Woodcote is the last corner on the National Circuit, and the last in our Silverstone track guide, but if it’s dry this isn’t much of a corner. You can’t gain time through here, but you can lose it. Make sure your input on the wheel is minimal – the car accelerates best in a straight line, after all, so try to smooth out the racing line as much as possible. Also, think about how tightly you’re holding the steering wheel; a tight grip on the wheel will make it harder to move the wheel and turn the car, which will mean more turning and therefore less speed. It’ll also wear you out more.

7 – Finish Line

And that concludes our Silverstone track guide to the National Circuit. The more laps you complete, the more familiar you will become with the surroundings and the better the feel you will have for your car and the conditions, meaning you can expect to get faster and faster throughout the day.

The key, though, is to build things gradually and improve on your previous lap. That way, you can learn what works and what doesn’t.

Silverstone GP Circuit advice

The start of the 3.66-mile GP circuit is on the newly-named Hamilton Straight opposite the Wing. Almost flat out, the first corner to tackle is the right-hander of Abbey, which leads immediately into the left-hander of Farm before you brake heavily into the right-handed turn three; Village Corner. The even slower left-hander of the Loop comes immediately after, and leads into the opening left-hander of Aintree, before heading down the Wellington Straight.

Turn six, the left-hander of Brooklands, is tight and leads immediately into the right-hand hairpin of Luffield. The right-handed kink of Woodcote leads cars down the old pit straight, before the difficult fast right-hander of Copse. Then, comes the challenging complex of Maggotts, Becketts and Chapel – a fast left-right-left-right-left complex. This then leads down the 770-metre Hangar Straight with the fast right-hander of Stowe at the end.

The fifteenth turn of the track, Stowe, precedes a short straight, named Vale, which leads downhill towards the Club complex. Heavy braking is required for the left-hander of turn 16, and understeer can be an issue for the next right-handers of turns 17 and 18, as you tentatively accelerate round to the start-finish straight. As you’d expect, the surface is excellent, though some standing water can gather in places in very wet conditions.

Silverstone track guide: fast facts

Track length: 3.66 miles (GP), 1.64 miles (National)

Corners: 18 (GP), 6 (National)

Highlight: The exit of Chapel onto the long, wide Hangar Straight, probably the best chance in the UK you’ll find to really stretch your car’s legs.

Price: From £219 (National), £319 (GP)

www.silverstone.co.uk

Tips to driving Silverstone National circuit

• Don’t overdrive: The National circuit isn’t one that rewards aggressive driving as most of the corners are fairly slow. You want to drive with smoothness and precision so that you don’t scrub off corner speed.
• Focus on your exit speed: The two most important corners on the circuit are Maggots and Luffield, as they lead on to the lengthy front and back straights. Get either of these wrong and your lap time will really suffer.
• Watch your mirrors: More important for racers, but still worth bearing in mind for track days. The nature of the corners here really encourages ‘lunges’ that could end your day. Make sure you’re aware of the cars around you and what they’re doing, and obviously make sure you make good overtaking decisions yourself! It’s also a much wider circuit than most other UK tracks, which means you can lose sight of a car around you fairly easily.

Track guide from Fast Ford magazine. Words: Alex Nevill & Jamie King. Photos: Fast Ford archive.

The post Silverstone Track Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The Honda Civic Type R EP3 was manufactured in Swindon and featured a 2.0-litre i-VTEC K20A2 motor. Marque enthusiasts will happily point out that Japanese-market EP3s featured LSDs. They also featured Championship White paint and Recaro seats, which UK models didn’t have, although they were built in Swindon. Any grey-import Japanese EP3 you find has actually been up the Suez Canal both ways!

Affectionately nicknamed ‘breadvan’, the EP3 was in production from 2001-2005. The specs remained relatively unchanged throughout its lifespan. A mild facelift in 2004 brought in a lighter clutch and flywheel. It also got a redesigned front bumper and projector headlights.

The EP3’s party trick: the K20 engine

The hysterically revvy K20 motor offered peak power of 197hp. These aren’t torquey motors, peaking at 145lb ft, but they really are all about the revs. The principle of VTEC is key to the Type R’s character. A contracted acronym for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control, the system works by offering two different cam profiles, and hydraulically shifting between them.

The relatively economical profile is in operation up to 5500rpm. At this point, the manic profile kicks in for higher lift and longer duration. In essence, this means that when you reach the point on the rev counter where in other cars you’d be thinking about shifting up a gear, a VTEC motor suddenly provides you with oodles more screaming, rampaging horses. In a nutshell, this means that the engine can be two things at once. It can be juvenile, and grown-up. You can have a racy, track-ready cam profile without the inherent lumpy idle and poor economy if you’re just driving to the shops.

And if you want more power from your K20, there are plenty of options out there. These motors are more than happy to have some forced induction thrown through them. Just be wary of the transmission when doing so.

The Premier Edition was sold as a run-out special, sporting red Recaros, tinted windows and a leather Momo steering wheel.

Check out our EP3 Type R tuning guide. 

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Most Common Problems

• Stretched timing chain
• Worn steering rack
• Worn seat bolsters
• Door mouldings and window seals deteriorating
• Rusty rear arches on facelift models

What to look out for when buying a Honda Civic Type R EP3

Below, we’ll break down each section of the car in detail and point out the issues that you should look out for when inspecting a used Honda Civic Type R EP3. Thankfully, on the whole it’s a fairly reliable car if the servicing schedule has been adhered to. Always ask the owner about the service history, what parts were used and where the work was carried out.

Engine and Transmission

These engines can go on seemingly forever if properly maintained. They’re fairly bulletproof in fast road driving and even in hard track use. The key to keeping them ticking is to keep them regularly serviced. You’ve always got to keep an eye on the oil level! When you’re looking at a car with a K20 motor, be sure to fastidiously comb through the service history. Also, have a good chat with the owner about how they’ve used and looked after the car. If the owner seems uninformed or disinterested, walk away. There are plenty of other cars on the market.

The K20 does use a bit of oil, that’s just a characteristic of the way they operate. A conscientious owner will be keeping a regular eye on levels and topping it up with 5W30. Make sure VTEC comes in clearly at around 5500rpm. It will be very noticeable when it does, and if it doesn’t, then it suggests the oil is low. You’re not looking at a car with a happy, healthy engine that’s been properly cared for.

EP3 Civic Type R timing chains

Timing chains can stretch, and tensioners can fail in rare cases, so it’s recommended to get them changed at 75,000, as well as having the valve clearances and tappets checked. Our advice would be that if you’re buying one on 100k+ and the history doesn’t show the work having been done, put the job near the top of your to-do list. Loose heat shields and manifold covers can cause rattles from under the bonnet. They are cheap to fix, so don’t panic if you hear some noise from the engine.

Transmission

The six-speed gearbox is generally pretty tough, but there are a few things to watch for. Crunching from the gearbox as it goes into second gear is common, and it’s not too much of a concern; do be wary of a heavy clutch, though. They’re light in operation, so a heavy one will need replacing soon.

There was a recall issued for 2004 cars for the gearbox jumping out of second gear under acceleration. Make sure it’s been done. Both engine and gearbox mounts can fail on cars that have seen a lot of track use, which obviously isn’t uncommon with Civic Type Rs. Rock the engine to check that it doesn’t move any more than it should.

Chassis

The good news is that generally speaking, there’s very little to look out for in terms of the chassis. The steering rack on early pre-facelift EP3s is a bit of a weak spot, and you’ll know if it’s worn because the wheel won’t self-center properly. If the car pulls to the right when you let go of the steering wheel, you’ll immediately know it’s the steering rack.

There was a recall for worn racks, so check to see if it’s ever been done. The good news is that used racks in good condition from later cars aren’t hard to source. However, it is an involved (i.e. expensive) job to swap one in. It’s worth getting a 2004-on rack as the ones fitted to facelift cars have revised steering geometry to lessen understeer. Any creaking noises from the rack can be resolved by getting it lubricated.

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Suspension

Suspension-wise, the original dampers are prone to wear, but it’s unlikely any car will still be running them as they will probably have been replaced with an uprated set. The only other thing to really look out for is whether the car sits level – if not, it will most likely point to worn bushes and ball joints. Brakes are strong and reliable, with just rear calipers prone to sticking, but getting them cleaned will sort this out.

Check out our guide to the best suspension for the Honda Civic Type R. Equally, we’ve got our guide to the best brakes in 2024.  

Interior

Interior-wise, the EP3 can be a bit rattly as the dash plastics are quite cheap. Door handle inserts can become scratched, but a DIY spray job will get them looking significantly better. Make sure that the electric windows work smoothly, and worn seat bolsters are common as they are quite large, and you rub against them getting in and out of the car. Air-con was optional, and if it’s fitted to the car you’re looking at, make sure it works – never believe anyone that tells you it just needs a re-gas, and if it’s not blowing cold, check the condition of the condenser as it will be the most likely culprit. But otherwise, it’s all generally hard-wearing and won’t go falling apart on you.

Exterior

Rust isn’t really a huge issue on the Honda Civic Type R EP3, but that’s not to say that you shouldn’t inspect any prospective purchase thoroughly to be sure it’s solid. The sills and arches are where you need to check, and any visible rust could be a sign of more lurking where you can’t see it. Facelift cars are especially susceptible as the rear arches were fitted with sound-deadening material that also had a habit of trapping water, which obviously isn’t ideal. If the arch liners are still present, just get rid of them.

Honda Civic Type R EP3 paint

The paint is quite soft, so stone chips around the front are very common. Milano Red cars look great, but they do suffer from paint fade if a car has spent its life outside, and then they start to turn pink. Machine polishing should bring the red back and then keep it looking red by regularly applying a good-quality wax, ideally one that’s been designed to offer extra UV protection. If the paint fade is really bad and is beyond saving, a respray will be your only option.

A common issue is that the door moldings and window seals deteriorate, so look out for that, and also check that the aerial base isn’t leaking and letting water into the cabin. Get inside the car and check the headlining around the B- and C-pillars to see if you can feel any signs of dampness. The headlights also tend to go milky, but you can restore them with a restoration kit, and the side skirts also have a tendency to come loose, so check them.

Finally, check that the boot lid spoiler on the tailgate sits flush with the roofline when it’s closed – if not, it’s a sign that the hinges are broken and need replacing. These need lubricating as they age, so if your spoiler is nice and flush, keep your hinges nicely lubricated to make sure they don’t go breaking on you.

Tech Spec: Honda Civic Type R EP3

• Engine: 1998cc four-cylinder
• Transmission: Six-speed manual
• Max Power: 200hp @ 7400rpm
• Max Torque: 145lb ft @ 5900rpm
• 0-62mph: 6.6secs
• Top Speed: 146mph
• Weight: 1204kg
• Price When New: £15,995

Words: Daniel Bevis and Elizabeth de Latour. Photos: Honda.

Love Japanese cars? Then you’ll love our Japfest event at Silverstone, Europe’s biggest Japanese car show! Head over to the Japfest page for more information.

The post Honda Civic Type R EP3 Buying Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The EA888 was first introduced in 2007 and has been seen in many of the Volkswagen Group’s iconic hot hatches, not to mention its crossover and SUV range, as well as Cupra’s Leon and Ateca. However, it’s the third evolution of the TSI motor – the Gen 3 – that everybody is after on the car tuning scene. It’s no wonder, either, as the engine is so easy to tune and the aftermarket is saturated with uprated parts for it.

While the Gen 3 EA888 2.0T TSI, found in Volkswagen’s Mk7 Golf GTI and Golf R models, appears similar to the previous variants of motor (previously seen in cult cars like the Mk5 GTI and Mk6 Golf R), a lot of its internal parts are very different indeed. In fact, the third evolution of this extremely popular direct-injection engine has a thinner block which, as a result, makes it lighter than its predecessors while amazingly producing more power and yet returning better miles per gallon. It’s a win win!

One of the Gen 3 TSI’s party tricks is that it features an integrated water-cooled exhaust manifold which, not only speeds up the engine’s operating temperature, but, also helps it remain cool under load. The fact it doesn’t need extra fuel to help keep the exhaust temperature down is one of the main reasons for the improved fuel consumption.

But, less about fuel economy and the boring stuff, what about tuning? Well, we’re just about to get on to that…

How To Tune VW’s EA888 Engine: Gen 3 TSI Tuning

Firstly, it’s worth noting that while the Mk7 Golf GTI and R models both feature similar engines based around the EA888 Gen 3 TSI motor, these units aren’t exactly the same. The biggest and most noticeable difference you’ll find between the two is in the type of turbocharger used. The Mk7 GTI comes from the factory with an IHI IS20 unit, whereas the R sports an IS38 (which is obviously slightly larger than the GTI’s unit). The great part of the engines being so similar means that most of the bolt on and drop in tuning parts fit both. Even better is the fact that, even with stock internals, it is quite easy and affordable to achieve up to 400hp – and if you start dropping in uprated rods and pistons, then the sky really is the limit. Let’s not run before we can walk, though…

Stage 1 EA888 Tuning – Up to 90bhp gain (with remap software alone)

So, what does Stage 1 actually mean? Good question. Well, different people have different interpretations but in our mind, Stage 1 software’s intended use is with factory hardware. Flashing your stock car’s ECU with Stage 1 software is by far the easiest and cheapest bang per buck you can achieve. Some tuners even offer software that you can actually flash at home, while others can supply a custom map to suit your specific car and any other small mods you may have made. It’s hard to recommend any one product as there are a number of great companies out there, like Unitronic, Revo and HP Tuners (to name but a few) supplying fantastic software. We’d suggest you work out your budget and what you want from the map, then speak to other people to find out what software they’re successfully using.

Tune your gearbox, too (TCU remaps)

If you have a DSG-equipped car, then a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) tune is a no brainer. Similar to tuning your car’s ECU, a gearbox map is flashed to the car. The result sees faster gear changes, raised RPM shift points and the option for more aggressive launch control from standstill. Basically, it’s as the car should have left the factory…

Hardware upgrades ready for more power

At this early stage, many tuners such as APR, Forge Motorsport and Racing Line will tell you you’re fine to add a cold air intake, turbo muffler delete and inlet pipe into the mix as this will create good foundations for things to come – some may class this as Stage 1+. You can even add a cat-back exhaust at this stage (from the likes of Milltek or Jetex), as it will improves visuals and sound, but shouldn’t cause issue with emissions or legalities.

Another simple upgrade for GTI owners is to fit the larger IS38 turbocharger from the Golf R, which will bolt straight on. Either way, if you get to this stage then chances are Stage 2 will be on the cards sooner than you may have planned. This tuning game is addictive…

Stage 2 Remap – Up to 115hp (Mk7 GTI) and 150hp (Mk7 R) gain over stock

See, you’re clearly hooked. Stage 2 software will, once again, give you a serious hike in power (especially with the additional hardware fitted, which we’ll come to soon), but there’s one important addition you should remember at this stage. To accompany Stage 2 software, most of the reputable tuners will stipulate you fit a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). These obviously deliver a whole lot more fuel to your engine, but make sure it meets the requirements of your new map. While we’re on the subject of fuel, most Stage 2 maps run on higher octane fuel, so do bear that in mind as well.

Legalities

When it comes to Stage 2 hardware, it’s worth noting that at this stage, many tuning products on the market will be sold for ‘off-road use’ only (think track days and drag racing), due to not necessarily complying with the various laws (emission, noise restrictions, etc) in your area.

Uprated intercooler, downpipe and cat

An uprated intercooler and cast downpipes are both essential Stage 2 hardware additions. The intercooler (often over double the size of the factory unit) will hugely lower air intake temperatures, thus preventing significant power loses, while the downpipe will obviously free up the flow restrictions synonymous with the factory unit. Cast downpipes usually work hand-in-hand with performance ‘high-flow’ catalysts and, combined with the larger diameter piping, allow your turbo to work at its optimum level.

Hybrid turbochargers for VW’s EA888 engine

Those wishing to take things a little further – without going for a ‘big turbo’ or playing with internals – could look at fitting a hybrid turbo at this stage, which will often fit in the stock location without modifications and still be a similar size to the stock unit (just feature larger internals). Garrett’s 2260 PowerMax is a popular upgrade for the Mk7 GTI and R models, which can see power leap way over the 450hp mark (using Stage 2 software, plus the other hardware bolt ons we’ve mentioned). Playing around with ethanol and water injection could see figures reach as high as 480hp+, depending on the fuel you use. At this level, you’re in Stage 2+ territory, we’d say…

Golf GTI/R Stage 3 – 500-600hp+ and beyond (depending on hardware used and size of turbo)

Okay, at this level, chances are you’re not just using your car for the daily commute, but also taking on the regular track day or drag strip event. Stage 3 is basically big school, usually centered around a larger bolt-on turbo, which can sometimes need mounting remotely due to the lack of space between the engine and bulkhead. While these engines are pretty strong, when you start looking at over 500hp, then uprated internals are a must. Obviously, up to this stage, bolting parts on is pretty easy and affordable, even if you’re paying somebody to fit the parts. One thing to factor in at Stage 3 is the extra costs of labor for the machining and general custom work involved if you’re not buying an off-the-shelf kit.

Uprated turbochargers for the EA888 engine

When selecting a turbo, again, a lot comes down to what you want from the engine. It’s worth reading out Turbocharger Guide, to discover exactly how turbos work before deciding on which snail to opt for. Companies like Revo will offer a complete bolt on Stage 3 turbo kit (see turbo above), or firms like Turbozentrum will just sell you just the turbo. If you’re going for a more bespoke application, then HG Motorsport is just one of a number of companies that can supply uprated downpipes for your Stage 3 conversion.

Uprated rods and pistons for the EA888 engine

We could (and probably will) write a whole article devoted to the correct connecting rods, pistons, valves and valve springs to use in a big-power Gen 3 2.0T as there are so many options and opinions out there. Obviously a lot comes down to what power/torque you hope to achieve, how you plan to use the engine and want that power delivered. Oh, and obviously how much money you plan to sink into the engine build.

The guys at Integrated Engineering, who started out producing rods before producing a whole host of bolt on products and software, suggest H-beam rods have great strength to weigh ratio, and they rate them up to the 600hp mark. Anything over that (yes, people often want to go there) then IE suggest their Tuscan I-beam items; designed for engines that make up to 1000hp, these are used in many of their world-record setting cars.

Again, there are a number of firms that manufacture pistons specifically for the 2.0T EA888, so you need to do your homework here as there are too many options for us to recommend just one. Most people will stick with the stock bore size of 82.5mm unless a cylinder bore scores, in which case, use an 83mm piston. Remember, though, that the latter will require machined cylinders, so it can be expensive.

Uprated valves and springs for the VW EA888 engine

Finally, stock valves and valve springs were never designed to deal with the extra pressure levels and power output, so we’d always suggested you upgrade both when you reach Stage 3. There’s no point swapping out the turbo and fitting uprated rods and pistons, only to fall at the final hurdle. Companies like Supertech will be a great place to start when searching. Do it once and do it right…

Tuning Limitations Of The VW EA888

It’s safe to say that the sky really is the limited when tuning the Gen 3 2.0T EA888 motor. So long as you opt for reputable parts and labor, plus you keep on top of the regular serving (using a decent synthetic engine oil) you won’t go far wrong! When it comes to knowing when to stop, well, the only real limitation is your budget and the size of your wallet! Dop Motorsport‘s Lupo drag racer (above) managed to achieve 1800hp, but then it did have a motor in the boot, too…

The future – Gen 4 VW EA888 TSI engine

As for the future, well, before we all go electric, the EA888 Gen 4 (or Evo4) motor, which arrived in the 2022 Mk8 Golf GTI and R models, is said to be the most technically advanced engine ever produced by VW. There was something of a delay in tuner’s gaining access to the engine’s ECU to work on revised software, but thankfully, this finally happened in the latter part of 2022. Naturally, a flurry of tuners soon began to offer software and bolt-ons for the new engine. We’re yet to see how far this motor will go in terms of all-out power, but we have a feeling it won’t be long till we find out. Be sure to read about it here first…

The post How To Tune a VW EA888 Engine appeared first on Fast Car.

The battery is an essential part of your car. Unfortunately, for car owners, none of them will last forever. The thing about car batteries is that they degrade in terms of performance and capacity as time goes on. This is like any other rechargeable battery, such as the one you’ll find in your phone or electric drill, you can only charge them up so many times before their ability to be ‘full’ for a long time deteriorates. As a result, you’ll need to factor in replacing one as time goes on. This is where some of the confusion comes in, on car batteries, there are a number of different  numbers and letters that all mean different things. In this guide, we’ll help you understand that information, while also recommending some of the best options on the market.

We’ll kick things off with our top picks that you can buy today.

Best Car Battery in 2024

We’ve split our picks between the lead-acid (LSI), EFB, and AGM sectors, which you can learn more about at the bottom of this page. On top of that, you can find tech specifications for each battery listed underneath every contender. The specs we’ll be touching on in this article include Capacity, Cranking Amps (CA), Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), and Reserve Capacity (RC).

Capacity simply indicates how much energy a battery can store. CA is how we measure the maximum electrical current the battery can provide, whereas CCA refers to how good a battery is at turning over a car from cold. A higher CA or CCA rating equals a more powerful battery. Bigger isn’t always better though, as you need a battery with a rating that matches your car’s requirements – if you go too big, you’ll probably find that it doesn’t fit the stock mounting location. Remember that when browsing different variants of the batteries listed below. RC, meanwhile, reflects a battery’s capacity to keep electronic features within the car running even after the alternator fails.

Again, we’ve gone into greater detail about battery technology further down in this article, so feel free to head there first if you want to brush up on your knowledge.

At a glance:

• Best Lead-Acid batteries
• Best Overall: Optima RedTop – buy from $249.99
• Best Value: Bosch S4 – buy from £65.99

• Best EFBs
• Best Overall: Exide Start-Stop EFB – buy from £144.99
• Best Value: Varta Blue Dynamic – buy from £65.98

• Best AGM batteries
• Best Overall: Odyssey ODX/ODP – buy from $254.99
• Best Value: DieHard Platinum – buy from $139.99

• Car Battery FAQs
• Car Battery Dimensions & Construction

Best Lead-Acid Batteries

Optima RedTop – Best Overall

This is a great replacement for your standard OEM battery, with ‘SpiralCell’ technology which helps reduce vibration within the battery. That in turn reduces the chance of failure or acid spillage under high stress. What’s more Optima claims that the RedTop has a ‘very low’ self discharge rate, meaning you should be able to leave it alone for quite a lengthy period of time without the battery running flat.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 44-50 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: 910-1000 A
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 730-815 A
• Reserve Capacity: 90-100 minutes

Buy an Optima RedTop car battery at Walmart from $249.99.

Bosch S4 – Best Value

You can’t go wrong with Bosch. From humble windshield wipers to complex EV powertrains, the engineering wizards at Bosch regularly master every industry they put their minds to. As such, if you’re looking for a regular lead-acid car battery, you’ll be in safe hands with the Bosch S4.

It makes use of full frame grid technology, with robust connections and resilient pocket separators. Plus, if you do have a mishap, Bosch has designed the top of the casing with acid spillage minimization in mind. To sweeten the deal, the Bosch S4 also comes with a 2-year warranty.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 40-95 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: Undeclared
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 330-950 A
• Reserve Capacity: up to 140 minutes

Buy a Bosch S4 battery at EuroCarParts from £65.99! 

Best EFBs

Exide Start-Stop EFB – Best Overall

The Exide Start-Stop EFB is suitable for cars with or without start-stop functionality. In fact, you’ll get an even longer lifespan out of it if your car doesn’t have start-stop. However, if you do have a high-tech ride, this battery is also optimized for use in regenerative braking systems. A powerful multi-tasker, then.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 55-105 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: Undeclared
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 520-950 A
• Reserve Capacity: Undeclared

Buy an Exide Start-Stop EFB at EuroCarParts from £144.99!

Varta Blue Dynamic – Best Value

Here’s a secret for you – Varta batteries are built in the same factories as Bosch batteries. As a result, this Varta Blue Dynamic EFB also makes use of PowerFrame architecture, which helps to speed up recharges and provide resistance against corrosion.

Being an EFB rather than an LSI, Varta claims that its Blue Dynamic range offers twice the cycle life of its standard batteries.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 40-95 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: Undeclared
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 330-830 A
• Reserve Capacity: Undeclared

Buy the Varta Blue Dynamic EFB on Amazon from £65.98!

Best AGM Batteries

Odyssey ODX/ODP – Best Overall

The ODX range is Odyssey’s most powerful family of AGM batteries. Designed for use in the most extreme climates and applications, ODXs can tackle anything from big diesel crew-cabs in sub-zero forests, to the beefiest of muscle cars in the driest of deserts. Though, if that’s a bit overkill for your intended usage, then make sure to give the more down-to-earth ODP AGM range a look instead.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 49-215 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: 800-1750 A
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 600-1300 A
• Reserve Capacity: 89-450 minutes

Buy Odyssey batteries at Advance Auto Parts from $254.99.

DieHard Platinum AGM – Best Value

DieHard offer 11 different types of battery across multiple industries, with this Platinum AGM being the top dog of the automotive range. It is made from 94% recycled materials and has a 3-year warranty.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: up to 100 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: 425-1000 A
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 180-950 A
• Reserve Capacity: 57-160 minutes

Shop for these batteries at Advance Auto Parts from $139.99!

Yuasa YBX900

Yuasa claims that it’s the world’s leading battery manufacturer. Quite a statement, but one that certainly has some credence to it, given Yuasa’s close relations with many automotive OEMs. As such, it makes sense that if you want a hard-hitting AGM battery, you should go to one of the top manufacturers. The Yuasa YBX9000 is the offering that we’re posing to you in this case, which should supposedly last 360,000 engine starts.

Tech Specs:

• Capacity: 55-105 Ah
• Cranking Amps range: Undeclared
• Cold Cranking Amps range: 520-950 A
• Reserve Capacity: Undeclared

Buy a Yuasa YBX9000 battery on Amazon from £139.99!

Battery Fitment

Before you rush to buy any of the products listed above, do bear in mind that your car will have certain fitment and power requirements. So, make sure you buy a variant which matches your car’s needs!

Anyway, it’s probably about time we dig into the nitty gritty tech details that underpin battery technology. So, keep reading to get a full picture of what you need for your car.

Car Battery FAQs

What causes car batteries to fail?

While a car battery will last you for many years, it’s easy to get caught out, especially in winter when the cold weather significantly reduces their ability to deliver the current needed to start your car. In fact, the humble car battery is also the cause of most of the breakdowns around the world. This is because, let’s face it, most of the time we don’t replace them until they go wrong.

And all that’s just for standard cars, what if your modified creation happens to be running loads of extra power-sapping accessories? How can you upgrade to a battery more suitable for your requirements? Sadly, it’s not always a case of slapping your numberplate into a website and getting the cheapest one. Unfortunately, not all auto parts suppliers get it right, especially when it comes to modified cars.

You know what they say though, knowledge is power. So if your car battery is struggling and our guide to charging your car battery hasn’t solved the problem, it may be time for a replacement or even an upgrade.

What does a car battery do?

Your regular 12volt car battery has two distinct jobs. The first is the most obvious, powering all the electrical systems such as the ignition, multiple vehicle ecus, lights, your car radio and the like. This of course includes any other electrical gadgets and gismos you may have ticked on the options list, or retro fitted over the life of the car. Basically speaking, anything that runs on electricity (and anything else you may have plugged in) will take the direct current (DC) it needs from the car battery. Cars also operate a closed system, and by that we mean that when the battery is in good condition no external power source is needed for charging.

Closed System Charging

When your car is running, the battery is kept charged up by the alternator, which is basically a type of generator that’s runs off a belt connected to the engine. As the belt spins the alternator pully, the rotational energy is converted into electricity and fed back to the battery. A standard alternator will crank out enough power to run the whole system on a standard car, meaning that the battery is doing very little work when the engine is running, it’s basically a big capacitor holding all that electricity and offering a stable pool of power for the car to draw from. When the engine isn’t running (and the battery is not being topped up) the electrical systems will simply deplete the battery pool, the reason why your battery will go flat if you play the radio for long enough or leave the lights on overnight.

Alternators are perfectly designed for the job but they do have limitations – they can only supply so much juice. Standard petrol and diesel cars don’t use a whole load of power for the most part, so a closed system with an alternator is sufficient to keep the battery charged for years at a time. But, when you start adding loads of accessories that require much more current for prolonged periods – say a massive audio system or active suspension that you can’t help constantly fiddling with – it stands to reason that you may be drawing more from the battery than it’s designed to supply. Here an uprated battery will essentially offer a deeper pool of power. In extreme cases multiple batteries and more powerful alternators may be required to make sure the closed system can handle the current draw.

Open Systems

Open systems are used when an alternator isn’t up to the job of charging, meaning that the battery (or batteries) must be charged externally. The most common example nowadays is the drive batteries on electric cars. A tiny little alternator isn’t going to supply enough juice to keep those massive battery packs topped up, right? But there’s also a couple of examples in the modified car community.

Many competition audio cars will be charged externally, or simply run off the mains via a 12V transformer. It’s also common for vehicles fitted with hydraulic suspension systems to have multiple batteries that don’t rely on an alternator for charging. In many cases, these are completely separate 24Volt setups that aren’t tied into any other vehicle systems.

Cranking

The second job your car battery performs is starting the engine. This is a completely different animal to simply supplying a stable power source for the electrical systems all the while the vehicle is running. To fire up the starter motor and get the engine to crank over, the battery needs to supply a huge amount of current for a very short time. If you try to turn over an engine by hand you’ll feel a lot of resistance, so it makes sense why it takes a lot of grunt to get that engine going.

What’s important here is that both jobs are reflected in the battery specs. This makes it far easier to pick yours when you know what to look for. Generally speaking, running the vehicle systems is all in the capacity and starting the engine comes down to the cranking power.

What do the car battery numbers mean?

When you look at all those figures on the label it can be confusing. Car batteries are a bit like tires in that respect – there’s a few important numbers and plenty more that won’t make a whole lot of difference to your life. From manufacturer part codes to group sizes, these also depend on where in the world you are. There’s all sorts of different standardized specifications for the US, Europe and Asia, making a breakdown of what every single digit futile here. That said, (aside from the 12V bit) here’s the other figures that you may find useful…

Car battery capacity (Ah)

Most people look for this number to work out the power but, strictly speaking, it’s not a definition of how powerful the battery is, it’s simply the measurement of the storage capacity. The higher the number, the bigger the capacity (or the electrical pool) your vehicle systems can draw from. Think of this as denoting how long the battery can deliver sufficient power without charging.

Ah means Ampere hours and indicates the amperage the battery can supply for an hour, or for how many hours it can supply 1 amp. Which, as you might expect, is all very technical and hinges on you knowing exactly what your car is drawing out. Here in the real-world though it does help to give an indication of what power you have stashed away in a brand-new battery.

Let’s say an average car stereo draws 10 amps and you have an 80Ah battery, this means it will play for 8 hours before the battery is depleted. If, however, you have a big install with external amps, subwoofers and all the trimmings, this will draw significantly more – so you’ll want to keep the engine running when you’re spanking the tunes out, otherwise you’ll drain the battery quickly.

How long before your battery dies when leaving a car unused?

As for how long before your battery dies when leaving a car unused? Well, most cars draw around 50 milliamps when switched off, simply to keep stuff like your clock, ecu settings and radio memory ticking over. This is just a twentieth of an amp, so the same 80Ah battery will last for 1600 hours with that draw, which is about 2 months. This is why, even with an older battery that may have degraded in capacity over time, you should be able to leave a car for weeks without the battery going flat.

Anyway, that’s the technical side but what you really need to know is that, when looking for a car battery you’ll need to make sure this Ah number is at least the same as standard item, and a bit more if you can, especially if you’re running additional equipment.

Starting Power (Cranking Power)

Nowadays most car batteries have a single CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) figure, and this denotes the Amps the battery can kick out for 30 seconds at -20-degC. In some cases, the CCA figure may be labelled as EN (for Europe) or SAE (in the USA and Asia). If you have both and they happen to be different, don’t worry because they just refer to the way that batteries are tested for each kind of rating. Just make sure you at least match them to the new one.

This rating is often overlooked but is crucial because different cars are more demanding than others, a big diesel lump requires more grunt to get going than a small petrol engine for example.

Fitting the correct sized battery

Put simply, your new battery has to be up to the job, and this is why fitting a 600CCA battery in a car that comes with an 800CCA battery as standard won’t give you the reliable starting power you need.

It’s also worth remembering that over time battery performance is reduced, so fitting a lower rated battery means it will struggle more and more as time passes. But equally, although there are advantages to fitting a replacement with a higher CCA rating, you don’t need a massive 1200CCA battery to start a standard car that has a 600CCA battery as standard. It probably won’t fit anyway.

Finally, there are a few other starting power measurement figures that pop up now and again, so it’s important not to confuse these with the Cold Cranking Amps, chiefly because they will always be higher numbers. These are the Cranking Amps (CA), or the battery performance measured at 0-degC. And the High Cranking Amps (HCA) which is measured at 27-degC. A 1000HCA battery typically only has a CCA rating of 600. So, don’t be fooled by any inflated figures.

Reserve Capacity (RC)

Battery Reserve Capacity denotes the amount of time in minutes that a battery can run a 25A load before the voltage drops below 10.5 volts. This is important because it gives you an indication of how long you can run your car if the alternator or any other part of the charging system fails. Most batteries have an RC rating of well over an hour.

Car Battery Dimensions & Construction

Car Battery Sizes

You may also find a figure for the battery ‘group size’, these were created by the Battery Council International (BCI) to denote the exact physical dimensions of each battery. For example, a 36R battery will be 263mm long, 183 wide and 206 high, and a 93 battery 354x175x175… oh and there’s about another 70 different specifications, before you even get to the capacities and terminals and everything else.

In our case of course, it’s just overcomplicating something very simple. All you need to know is that the battery you choose must physically fit in the space provided by the vehicle. So, either keep the group number the same, or break out the measuring tape to make sure. Just be aware that just because a battery fits in the gap, doesn’t always mean it’s the right one for your car.

The other thing to be wary of here is how your battery is secured into the vehicle. Some are clamped across the top with a bar, others have a hump at the bottom that’s clamped down with a metal plate. You need to make sure you have the correct type because you don’t want your battery sliding about when you drive.

Car Battery Terminals

Again, these will be denoted by various manufacturer and standardized codes around the world. But the short story is that the lead terminals on your battery need to fit the types of fixings on your vehicle. They also need to be in the right position on the left or the right of the battery to ensure that the standard battery cables reach the correct pole. Wiring in a battery back-to-front will seriously ruin your day… and usually all the vehicle electrics.

There are various types of terminals, most commonly the Standard Post batteries you’ll find on most vehicles made in Europe and the US. Japanese Post which are like standard posts only smaller. And then there’s bolt-through terminals that you… er, put a bolt through to secure. It’s important to make sure your new battery has the right ones.

Car Battery Construction

Finally, we’re on to the actual type of unit you should look for because, put simply, not all batteries are equal. Obviously, the prices will always come into play here, but be careful because it’s easy to think you’re getting a bargain, when in fact you may just be buying a battery that doesn’t work too well for your type of vehicle. This is especially important for the most up-to-date cars which now have more onboard electronics than ever before. And it goes double for those that use start stop systems.

There’s quite a few types of car battery but (discounting the Nickel Metal Hydride and the Lithium-ion batteries you’ll commonly find in EVs and hybrids) the most common types of car battery and car battery upgrades you’ll come across are Lead Acid, Silver Calcium, EFB and AGM batteries.

Lead Acid (SLI)

Traditional lead acid, wet cell car batteries are extremely common. Even though they’re the most basic type you’ll still find them on most of the vehicles around the world. Likely because these are extremely cheap to produce.

Lead acid batteries typically last for 3-5 years and can be referred to as SLI batteries, which stands for the most important vehicle systems they power – starting, lighting and ignition. They work by using a series of positive and negative metal plates (usually over 6 cells) which are submerged in an electrolyte, or more specifically solution of sulphuric acid and water used to carry the charge.

Despite essentially doing the same job (in exactly the same way) there are two main configurations. Flooded-cell batteries have removable caps used for topping up the electrolyte inside. Sealed units don’t need topping up, this is why they’re often referred to as maintenance-free batteries.

Silver Calcium

Not quite as common, but still worth a mention, Silver Calcium batteries are another type of lead acid battery. The only real difference here is that they’re put together using a calcium-lead-silver alloy to make some of the internal components. Although they’re more expensive, these are designed to offer increased resistance to corrosion and the effects of high temperatures. This results in improved battery life and high cranking power over a long period. Unfortunately, silver calcium batteries need a very high voltage over a specific range to recharge effectively. This means that they should only be fitted to vehicles that have them as standard. They’re good, but not an upgrade in the traditional sense.

EFB

Enhanced flooded batteries are basically led acid batteries that are optimized for higher performance and increased stability. The idea is to drastically increase the number of charging cycles the battery can withstand without degrading, and improve the deep discharge performance for a longer effective life over plenty of high cranking in short bursts. Typically, one of these will last you for 5-8 years.

You’ll commonly find EFB batteries in cars with stop start, and they can be used as an upgrade over conventional SLI batteries, although most upgrades tend to involve upping the game to AGM.

AGM, Gel Cell & VRLA Car battery

AGM stands for absorbent glass mat and it refers to the internal structure of these sealed units. In an AGM battery the electrolyte is bound and suspended in glass fiber making the unit not only leak-proof but helping to offer much higher output. In fact, AGM batteries can offer up to five times faster charging and a significantly higher performance than EFB batteries. This makes them even more ideal for vehicles running lots of accessories or stop start systems. This type of battery can also last up to three times longer than EFB and, even though they’re expensive, they’re becoming more and more common for OEM applications on modern cars.

AGM batteries are also an example of a VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) configuration. Although they’re technically sealed units, they incorporate a one-way relief valve as a safety measure to prevent excessive build-up. Gel cell batteries are similar in design and another example of VRLA, but they’re not quite as common in the car market because AGM batteries tend to offer better performance at a lower cost.

As for upgrades, it’s nearly always possible to upgrade to AGM in a car that comes with an SLI or EFB battery as standard. But you can’t do it the other way around. If you already have AGM, you’ll need another when the time comes for a replacement.

The post Best Car Battery & What You Need To Know About Them appeared first on Fast Car.

Washing your car and doing so regularly will get it clean, but not 100% clean. You’re always going to have some contamination left behind, be that fallout, sap, tar and/or other unwelcome things that stick to your paint and which washing alone won’t remove. This is where using a clay bar comes in, and it will remove all of these surface contaminants, leaving your paintwork super-smooth and ready for waxing or paint correction.

Firstly, though, let’s explore what a clay bar is and why you would use it when detailing your car.

What is a clay bar in relation to car detailing?

A clay bar is a super-sticky resin compound designed to collect all the bits of stuck-on dirt and contamination that washing alone won’t shift. Handle a piece of clay for any amount of time, and you will see just why it’s so effective at cleaning the surface of your paint, and that’s because it is insanely sticky to the touch, meaning anything it runs over sticks to it.

What are the benefits of using a clay bar on your car?

There are numerous benefits to using a clay bar on your car. First of all, it gets your paint far cleaner than washing alone can. Once the paintwork has been decontaminated with clay, you are left with the perfect blank canvas for whatever you want to do next. Because the paintwork is now so much cleaner, it will be easier to clean next time, and it will stay cleaner for longer, so that’s an immediate benefit. It will look much better, too. Claying is also an essential step before you carry out any paint correction as it deep-cleans the paint and ensures it is completely free of contaminants.

When you’re applying wax, you want the surface of your paint to be as clean as possible, and the reasons for this are twofold. First of all, applying wax involves contact with the paint and applying some pressure, and if your paintwork is not perfectly clean, there is always a chance you could pick up some dirt with your applicator and end up causing some damage to the clear coat. Secondly, you want the wax to bond to your paintwork as best as it can for maximum durability, and by giving the wax a perfectly clean surface, it will adhere to it that much better and last much longer.

What are the different types of clay bar grades for detailing?

You will find there is various hardness of clay available. Fine, softer clay is more gentle, making it ideal for use on less dirty cars. It’s also safer and, when used properly, won’t cause any damage to the clear lacquer, so it’s ideal for beginners. Medium and heavy clay bars are more aggressive and more effective at removing contaminants, especially more stubborn ones that fine clay won’t shift (like overspray, for example). However, due to their nature, these clays will almost always mar the lacquer and so should only be used before paint correction.

Now you know what claying is, it’s time to show you how to use a clay bar on your car!

How to use a clay bar on your car

1. Cut your clay bar to size and manipulate it

Once you have chosen your grade of clay, remove it from its wrapping or container and tear or cut off a piece. You want a reasonably-sized piece, but it depends on how large of an area you plan on claying. If you’re only going to be doing a small section before some paint correction, for example, then you only need a small piece, but if you plan on claying your entire car, then you’ll be wanting a much larger chunk.

Clay is quite hard, so once you’ve cut your desired piece to size, you want to manipulate it in your hands for a bit to soften it. Then you want to shape it into a disc or a pad, not too large because you want to be able to hold it comfortably, and not too thin, just a comfortable size that you can work with.

2. Apply lubricant liberally

When it comes to using a clay bar, probably the most important thing to remember is that there is no such thing as too much lubrication. You want to keep your clay bar and the surface of the paint as slippery as possible at all times, as this helps the clay to glide across the bodywork, picking up everything in its path without dragging on the paint. Before you start, make sure you liberally spray the panel and the clay bar with quick detailer and keep spraying the panel as you go. If in doubt, add more detailer – you can never over-lubricate and the slicker the surface, the easier the job.

3. Rub the clay bar over the bodywork in sections

The act claying is pretty simple; you just rub the clay bar over the surface. You don’t want to apply any pressure, let the clay do the work. As usual, when it comes to detailing, you want to work in sections – this will ensure that you do a more thorough job, that your quick detailer isn’t drying on the surface of your bodywork, and that your clay isn’t getting too dirty before you move on to the next section. Work methodically, you can rub quite quickly, just find a good rhythm, and you’ll be able to feel as each section gets progressively smoother beneath the clay. Once each section feels completely smooth and free of contamination, you can start work on the next section.

4. Fold the clay at regular intervals

At regular intervals during the claying process, you want to fold your clay bar over a couple of times to give yourself a clean surface to work with. You can’t physically clean a clay bar, so by folding it over you will be able to keep giving yourself a clean portion to use when working on your car.

5. Don’t throw away your clay bar after use (unless you’ve dropped it on the floor!)

After you’ve been using a piece of clay bar for a while, possibly on a couple of cars, it will become quite dirty, and that’s when it’s time to get yourself a fresh piece, but don’t throw the old one away. You can now move this piece on to other claying duties that don’t involve claying your car’s bodywork, like claying the wheels, for example. That’s the beauty of clay – you can use it anywhere, from paintwork to wheels, even your exhaust tips, as it’ll do a great job of helping to remove stubborn deposits. And one piece of clay can migrate from carrying out paint-cleansing duties, to then being dedicated to wheels, to being used for your exhaust tips before it’s time to get rid of it.

One very important thing to remember is: if you drop your clay bar, throw it away! Clay is so sticky that if you drop it, it will instantly pick up dirt and rocks, and there is no way to get rid of them. Once dropped, get rid of it and get a fresh piece.

6. Wipe off each section with a microfiber cloth

During the claying process, you can wipe each section dry with a clean, soft microfiber cloth after you’ve clayed it, which is the simplest and easiest option to get each panel clean. Or, if you’re especially committed you can re-wash the whole car afterwards to remove any residue left after the claying process. After claying, if you’re not carrying out paint correction, you want to make sure that you follow up with a coating of wax or sealant to give your freshly-cleaned paint some protection to keep it clean.

Now you’ve mastered how to use a clay bar on your car, have you checked out our other detailing guides?

• How To Pre Wash a Car
• How To Wash a Car
• Car Paint Correction Guide

Did you know that we host a number of performance car events throughout the year? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more info on what’s coming up next. 

The post How To Use a Clay Bar On Your Car appeared first on Fast Car.

Did you know, the Hyundai i30N’s 2.0-litre,16v turbo G4KH Theta engine started life in a Mitsubishi Evo X? And also like Evo’s before, the Hyundai i30N is a great car for tuning, whether that’s in 250bhp or 271bhp trim (N Performance). We spoke to Courtenay Sport on how best to extract power from the Hyundai i30N.

Hyundai i30N engine tuning

First up in our Hyundai i30N tuning guide is an option for those not wanting to get their hands dirty, but look to extract easy gains, and that’s a remap. A stage one map is a simple plug and play affair that boosts power to around 305bhp and 332lb ft. But if that’s not enough for you, then there are hardware upgrades you can make alongside the tune in further increase performance. The stock inlet is superb, featuring big bore pipe work and a cone filter in the stock airbox, so gains in this area are hard won, with an induction kit making more of an aural improvement that any noticeable power increase. To this end, a simple uprated filter for the stock air box is recommended, which allows you to save your money for the exhaust system.

Exhaust and cooling upgrades for the Hyundai i30N

The OEM exhaust is a roarty unit with pop and bangs aplenty, but it is quite restrictive, especially in the flexipipe. As a result, a bigger bore replacement here does reap around 10bhp alone. Combine this with a GPF delete or cat-back exhaust system from the likes of Milltek and you get a nice torque gain low down, plus an even better aural experience.

An uprated tube and fin intercooler from Forge or Wagner will also be worthwhile, as it flows better and has improved cooling properties, allowing more boost to be run. Combine these with a stage two map and you’ll be seeing around 325bhp and 350lb ft. Finally, any more will require a hybrid turbo and uprated fuel pump, but combined with a stage three map, outputs of up to 400bhp and 385lb ft are to be expected, making for a seriously rapid hot hatch.

Hyundai i30N suspension tuning

The stock suspension is a properly sorted set up, with an excellent e-differential and electronic damper control via the steering wheel modes. If you want to retain this functionality, then simple lowering spring kits are available from the likes of Eibach and ST, but the ride does tend to suffer. A better, if pricier, option would be to upgrade to a full coilover system from the likes of KW. Their V3 kit with damper cancellation offers an excellent choice for lowered road driving, with superb handling and ride comfort, but you do lose the ability to adjust the damper settings from the driver’s seat. For those who want a more hardcore option or that want to do a lot of track work, the KW Clubsport kit is what Courtenay Sport  recommends, along with adjustable camber bolts from Powerflex.

Brakes

Unlike many other hot hatches, the i30N doesn’t use a swanky Brembo setup or similar and just makes do with its own braking system, lifted from a heavier model in the range. But far from a poor option, the stock brakes are immense, with excellent feel that gives plenty of confidence and power. Due to this, it’s worth limiting upgrades to a set of uprated brake pads from EBC for the road or some Pagid RS29s for the track, with a set of Tarox S2000 two piece discs a good option simply due to their lighter weight. Teamed up with some Goodridge braided hoses and your brake setup will be stunning!

Interior upgrades

The i30N’s interior is simple and stylish with supportive sports seats, a multifunction steering wheel and a multimedia screen dominating the center of the dash. To be honest, there’s not a lot we’d change, but if you were looking to track your Hyundai, then Recaro do their excellent Pole Position bucket seats with i30N specific mounts. It’s not recommended to fit an aftermarket steering wheel, as you would lose too much functionality, but you could always get the stock wheel customized with wither a flat bottom, some carbon-fiber, or retrimmed to your taste. Or ignore that advice and go full race car vibes, your car your choice!

If you want more performance and not bothered about losing some of the practicality, then your i30N would benefit from losing a few pounds. Thinner bucket seats, removal of the rear seats and some plastic trim will certainly help reduce its overall mass and result in improved acceleration and cornering performance.

Styling upgrades for the Hyundai i30N

When it comes to styling the i30N, kits have come a long way now the car has been around for quite a few years. Where once you were limited to splitters, skirts and diffusers, you can now go with a full on wide arch kits that can cost thousands. Thankfully for us, the i30N hasn’t been short on the motorsport front, so if you speak to the right people, and with deep enough pockets, you could build yourself a road-going Touring Car of rally replica. Or, you could stick to keeping things simple and enjoying the car’s natural look.

Wheel wise, the N comes with 18in wheels from the factory, while the N Performance has 19in, so either size will fit no problem. Just ensure to select a lightweight option if you want to retain the car’s excellent handling, and it’s said that an 18in wheel with a quality 235/40/18 Ultra-High-Performance tyre is the sweet spot for performance and ride, although the 19inchers definitely win in the looks department.

Hyundai i30N tuning conclusion

It may lack the kudos and brand heritage of the likes of Honda’s Civic Type R, VW’s Golf GTI or RenaultSport and Ford’s Focus RS monikers, but the Hyundai i30N relies on much more than its badge and is a better car as a result.

In stock form it’s a belter, but with the potential to add 50% more power into the mix, plus make the already excellent handling and braking more focused and potent and you’ve got a seriously impressive hot hatch for very reasonable money. So if you want to fly fast and under the radar, or you’re just not that bothered about the badge, you can pick up one of the finest hot hatches around for not much money.

Looking to buy one? Be sure to check out our Hyundai i30N buying guide.

Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for information on what event we’ve got coming up next! 

The post Hyundai i30N Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

This Bavarian beast has been setting hearts racing and leaving lesser motors in its dust for over three decades. So, grab a drink, settle in, and let’s dive into the history of BMW’s most iconic M Car…

The Birth of a Legend: BMW M3 E30 (1986-1991)

Picture this: It’s the mid-80s. Synth-pop’s blasting on the radio, everyone’s rocking questionable hairdos, and BMW’s cooking up something special in their Motorsport division. In 1986, they unleashed the original E30 M3 on an unsuspecting world, and boy, did it make a splash! This wasn’t just another 3 Series with a fancy badge. Oh no, this was a proper homologation special built to dominate Group A touring car racing. BMW’s engineers went to town on the standard E30, giving it a wider stance, boxy flared arches, and that iconic rear wing that looked like it could double as a picnic table. Under the bonnet lurked a high-revving 2.3-litre four-pot S14 engine, good for a screaming 200 bhp.

That might not sound like much today, but back then, it was enough to have this lightweight monster hitting 60 mph in just 6.7 seconds and topping out at 146 mph. Not too shabby for a car that still had to do the weekly shop! But BMW wasn’t done. They kept tweaking and fettling, giving us the Evolution and Sport Evolution models. By the time the final E30 M3 rolled off the production line in 1991, power had been bumped up to a whopping 238 bhp from a 2.5-litre engine. That’s proper old-school muscle, that is!

The Smooth Operator: BMW M3 E36 (1992-1999)

As the 90s rolled in, bringing with it grunge, Friends, and questionable fashion choices, BMW decided it was time for the M3 to grow up a bit. Enter the E36 M3 – smoother, more sophisticated, but still packing a proper punch. Gone was the raw, race-bred four-cylinder. In its place, we got a silky-smooth 3.0-litre straight-six, initially pumping out 286 bhp. This new M3 was less of a track day special and more of a high-performance grand tourer.

It could still hustle when you wanted it to, mind, hitting 60 mph in about 5.6 seconds. But the real party piece came in 1995 with the introduction of the 3.2-litre engine. Now we’re talking 321 bhp of pure Bavarian muscle! This M3 was also the first to offer BMW’s SMG automated manual gearbox. It might’ve been a bit jerky compared to today’s dual-clutch units, but back then, it was proper cutting-edge stuff.

The People’s Champion: BMW M3 E46 (2000-2006)

If the E36 was a bit too smooth for your liking, the E46 M3 came along in 2000 to rough things up a bit. This is the one that many reckon is the sweet spot in M3 history – the perfect blend of old-school analogue feel and modern performance. Under that bulging bonnet sat a 3.2-litre straight-six S54 engine, belting out 343 bhp. This thing revved to the moon and back, with a spine-tingling soundtrack to match.

It’d hit 60 mph in about 5 seconds flat and keep on pulling all the way to 155 mph. But it wasn’t just about straight-line speed. The E46 M3 handled like it was on rails, especially if you opted for the Competition Package with its beefed-up suspension and bigger brakes. And let’s not forget the CSL – a stripped-out, pumped-up version that’s now more desirable than a winning lottery ticket!

The V8 Bruiser: BMW M3 E90/E92/E93 (2007-2013)

As we rolled into the new millennium, BMW decided to go big or go home. The fourth-gen M3 landed with a bang in 2007, packing a 4.0-litre V8 under its hood. This was proper supercar territory, with 414 bhp on tap and a noise that could wake the dead. Available as a saloon, coupe, or convertible, this M3 was a proper jack-of-all-trades. It could do the school run on Monday and then embarrass supercars at the track on Sunday.

The 0-60 sprint was dispatched in just 4.6 seconds, and if you were brave enough to take off the electronic limiter, it’d top out at over 180 mph! But it wasn’t all about brute force. The E92 M3 introduced some clever tech, like the M Dynamic Mode that let you have a bit of slip without completely turning off the electronic nannies. Perfect for when you wanted to get a bit lairy without ending up in the hedge!

The Turbo Terror: BMW M3 F80 (2014-2018)

As we hit the mid-2010s, even BMW couldn’t resist the siren call of turbocharging. The F80 M3 landed in 2014, sporting a twin-turbo 3.0-litre straight-six. Purists might’ve moaned about the loss of natural aspiration, but you couldn’t argue with the numbers: 431 bhp and a 0-60 time of just 4.1 seconds. This generation saw the M3 name reserved solely for the four-door saloon, with the coupe and convertible versions rebranded as the M4.

It was lighter than its predecessor, thanks to clever use of carbon fibre, and it handled like a dream. The turbos meant it had buckets of low-down torque, making it an absolute weapon on the road.But it wasn’t without controversy. Some reckoned it was a bit too clinical, lacking the raw edge of earlier M3s. And let’s not even get started on that artificially enhanced engine note pumped through the speakers. Still, in terms of pure performance, this M3 was an absolute monster.

The Modern Marvel: BMW M3 G80 (2021-present)

And that brings us to the latest and greatest – the G80 M3. Launched in 2021, this thing’s got more tech than the Starship Enterprise and enough power to restart the Big Bang. We’re talking 503 bhp in Competition spec, 0-60 in 3.8 seconds, and enough electronic wizardry to make Harry Potter jealous. But let’s address the elephant in the room – that grille. It’s big. It’s bold. It’s… controversial. Some love it, some hate it, but you can’t deny it makes a statement. And hey, at least you can spot it coming a mile off! For the first time ever, you can now get your M3 with all-wheel drive. Purists might scoff, but when you’re trying to put down over 500 bhp, a bit of extra traction doesn’t go amiss.

Don’t worry though, you can still switch it to rear-wheel drive mode when you fancy getting sideways. And if that wasn’t enough, BMW’s only gone and made an M3 Touring! That’s right, you can now have your M3 as a proper estate car. Perfect for when you need to get the kids to school in a hurry, or just fancy taking the dog for a very, very fast walk.

Wrapping It Up

So, there you have it, folks – 35 years of M3 madness condensed into one high-octane history lesson. From its humble beginnings as a homologation special to the tech-laden powerhouse it is today, the M3 has always been at the pointy end of the performance car world. It’s been imitated, emulated, but never quite replicated. Whether you’re a fan of the raw, analogue feel of the early models or the face-melting performance of the latest versions, there’s a BMW M3 out there for everyone.

Which one’s your favourite? The classic E30? The sweet-spot E46? Or are you all about that modern G80 life? Whatever your poison, there’s no denying the M3’s place in the pantheon of performance car greats. Here’s to another 35 years of BMW’s ultimate driving machine! Now, if you’ll excuse us, we’re off to check down the back of the sofa for some spare change. We’ve got a BMW M3 to buy!

Love performance cars? Did you know that we host a number of modified car events throughout the year? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more info on what’s coming up next. 

The post Ultimate Guide To Every BMW M3 Generation appeared first on Fast Car.

The launch of the ‘New’ R50 Mini in 2001, offered much for hot hatch enthusiasts. This included the sharp steering and playful chassis, but with just 120hp, this Mini had ‘warm’ rather than ‘hot’ performance. They shouldn’t have worried, as a faster version was always on the cards, and, sure enough, the performance headliner with one of the most iconic Classic Mini performance badges on the boot, Cooper S, was launched in March 2002 in the US, and June 2002 for the UK market.

Outside, BMW deliberately didn’t change Frank Stephenson’s attractive, 2000s redesign. The big giveaways were the letterbox vent on the bonnet, feeding air directly to the intercooler, and the Classic Mini-style center twin exhaust, with its two smaller Coke-can finishers. The only other style changes were the chunkier, more aggressive bumpers missing their chrome, plus different side skirts and a larger rear spoiler. Inside, the changes over an R50 Cooper were harder to spot, although there were welcome, more supportive standard sports seats.

Where the R53 Mini Cooper S gets most interesting is under the scooped bonnet. The addition of an Eaton supercharger and stronger Getrag six-speed manual gearbox to the 1.6-liter Tritec engine meant the Cooper S’s performance more than lived up to the pre-launch hype.

History Of The Mini Cooper S R53

In June 2022 (March 2002 for US market), the performance range-topper, the Mini Cooper S R53 was launched. It had 163hp, 0-62mph acceleration in 7.4 seconds and a top speed of 133mph.

The JCW tuning kit for the Mini Cooper S R53 was released in March 2003 and took power up to 200hp. Costing just over £3,000/$3,672, the JCW kit consisted of a revised supercharger pulley, a gas-flowed and ported cylinder head, uprated spark plugs, a freer flowing exhaust system and a remapped ECU. The result was a 136mph top speed and 0-62mph acceleration in just 6.8 seconds. This kit came from Cooper’s East Preston home of the fast Mini and was officially sanctioned, meaning the warranty remained intact. Plus, it could be fitted to new or nearly new models at John Cooper Works or, more conveniently, a local Mini dealer. Towards the end of first-generation Mini production, the JCW kit was offered as a factory-fit option.

R53 LCI

Late 2004, the Mini got its mid-life or LCI (Life Cycle Impulse in BMW language) facelift, and the Cooper S R53 received a power hike to 170bhp, with 0-62mph acceleration dropping to just 7.0 seconds. This power increase for the standard S also meant an increase to the JCW kit, which now boasted 210bhp thanks to 380 injectors and a different airbox. A sought-after limited-slip differential was also available as an option.

An auto version of the R53 arrived in 2005, this is a proper six-speed torque converter gearbox with steering-wheel-mounted paddles.

The first-generation New Mini’s final hurrah, was the limited edition, hardcore two-seater GP. The GP is 50kg lighter, has a unique body kit, uprated JCW brakes, unique four-spoke alloys, is finished in Thunder blue with a Pure Silver roof and was assembled by legendary Italian coach builder – Bertone. Priced at £22,000, it was sold out before it even hit dealers and is already a sought-after collector’s item.

Production of the R50 and R53 Minis eventually stopped in 2006, after 130,000 had been sold in the UK alone.

Mini Cooper S R53 model timeline

• March 2002: R53 Cooper S (165bhp) launched in the US.
• June 2002: R53 Cooper S (165bhp) launched in the UK.
• March 2003: Mini approved John Cooper Works (JCW) tuning kit offered for the R53 Cooper S.
• September 2004/April 2005: The R53 got its mid-life or LCI (Life Cycle Impulse in BMW language) facelift, it also got a power boost to 170bhp. JCW Cooper S tuning kit now has 210bhp. A limited-slip differential and proper six-speed automatic transmission were new options.
• July 2006 – limited edition, two-seat R53 GP released.

Differences between US and UK Minis

Apart from US spec front and rear wheel arch lights, there are no other bodywork changes between UK and US MINIs.

MC40 Monte Carlo Rallye Commemorative Edition launched in February 2004, and was limited to 1,000 individually numbered cars just for the US. Finished in Chili Red with a white roof, the MC40 was fitted with unique R90 17-inch split rim alloys finished in Anthracite, driving lamps, special red and black leather trim, and magnetic #37 door numbers.

Does the Mini Cooper S R53 have any engine issues? 

The fitment of the supercharger adds welcome charisma to the durable and generally reliable Tritec engine, but there are still some areas to be aware of. Firstly, is there enough oil in it? The addition of that supercharger means this 1.6 will tend to drink a little more than usual, as much as 250ml per 1,000 miles. So, make sure you pull the dipstick and check there’s plenty of the black stuff. Then, start the engine and listen for a low-down rumbling – if you can hear this, it could mean the engine has been run low on oil at some point.

Elsewhere, oil leaks from the sump and oil filter are another sign of engine trouble. On top of the low-down rumble, with the engine running, listen for rattles at the top of the engine, which could be the result of the hydraulic tappets or the timing chain tensioner.

Other engine concerns are just about keeping it cool. Overheating is a common issue with the Mini Cooper S R53, as the main cooling fan’s thermostat can fail, stopping it from cutting in and ultimately leading to cracked cylinder heads.

Mini R53 supercharger issues

The Cooper S’s Eaton M45 supercharger isn’t known to give trouble either, although check the condition of the drive belt, which can fail. Also, most R53 Cooper S’s have now covered over 100,000 miles, and if the supercharger hasn’t received a rebuild, it’s worth allowing for a rebuild from a specialist such as GT Tuning, when negotiating a price.

Suspension

Many Cooper S’s were fitted with standard run-flat tires, which make the ride hard – especially with the sports suspension. Thankfully, many owners will have removed them by now, but check the condition of the anti-roll bar links, bushes, and leaky shock absorbers.

Transmission

The standard six-speed manual transmission was supplied by Getrag and is not known for problems – although the gears aren’t always easy to select, which is characteristic of this gearbox. Clutches on the other hand do wear, especially in tuned models. A clutch change is also a big job on an R53.

Any electrical issues on the Mini Cooper S R53?

Thankfully, the R53 Cooper S doesn’t suffer with the same electrical issues as the R50. However, make sure you still check for blown stereo speakers, slow electric window motors and failing central locking. These are all easy fixes, with affordable and readily available second-hand parts.

Bodywork

The earliest cars are over 21 years old, but still make sure you check the overall condition of the paintwork. The more upright nose is vulnerable to stone chips, as is the front bumper; also check to see if it’s loose and for grounding damage. Check the sides for parking dents (dents in the rear quarters are particularly hard to fix). Many R53s have already been modified, so check you’re happy with the modifications made and the standard of work done.

Common interior problems on the Mini R53

Inside, expect some wear and scuffing to the sport seats, some of the plastics too are easily marked. There have also been cases of the roof lining turning into a tent as the original fabric gives up.

Remember, R53s are now 20+ years old, so the interior does feel dated. Many owners will have opted to upgrade the stereo system, so make sure it works and that it was installed correctly.

Wheels

Are the alloy wheels badly curbed? Excessive damage could affect the wheel alignment. If they’re bad, it might be worth factoring into the price some four-wheel laser alignment.

Be sure to also check the condition of the tyres, especially on cars that have curbed wheels.

How much should I pay for an Mini Cooper S R53?

• £500 – £1,000: Here is where you find the cheapest R53s, these will be project cars, so expect non-runners or cars with issues.
• £1,000 – £3,000: The best 2003 and pre-facelift 2004 models are in this price band. Watch for cheaper, later categorized cars.
• £3,000 – £5,000: This where the best condition, lowest mileage, early cars, are at dealers. It is also where you find higher mileage, later cars.
• £4,000 – £6,000: The latest, highest specification and lowest mileage examples are in this price band at dealers.
• £15,000 – £18,000: Fastest and rarest Cooper S GPs start at around £15,000, with 100,000 miles. You will pay more for lower mileage examples.

US Prices

• $3,000 – $5,000: Earliest 2002 Cooper Ss start at $3,000, but these have high miles, and for a couple of thousand bucks more, later 2003 cars, with a clean title and plenty of extras can be yours.
• $5,000 – $8,000: Later 2004 pre-facelift cars start at around $5,000, plus highest mileage LCI facelift cars.
• $9,000 – $12,000: Here’s where you’ll find the latest 2006 model year LCI facelift Cooper S with around 90,000 miles. $10,000 bucks will get you into the highest mileage, US. only, MC40 limited edition hatch.

I spotted one low mileage GP1, with just under 20,000 miles, priced at over $49,900!

Words: Martyn Collins (ex-editor of Modern Mini Magazine and author of New Mini).

Did you know that we host a number of performance car events throughout the year? Check out our Fast Car Events page for more information on what’s coming up next. 

The post Mini Cooper S R53 Buyer’s Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Engine swaps really personify modified cars. Fitting a more powerful motor is a fantastic way to improve the performance of your ride, but which engine swaps are best?

These days we’re spoilt for choice with engine tuning, so we don’t need to go to the hassle of an engine swap. But that doesn’t mean it’s no longer a good idea. It can still be one of the coolest mods to make, and the most cost effective way to massive performance gains. Not to mention the autmatic gratificaion of people when you lift the bonnet at car events…

With enough time, money, and skill, you can fit any engine swap you want. You can have a Bugatti Veyron engine fitted to a BMX if you really wanted to. But for the sane (or slightly less insane) among us, we want the best engine swaps to offer great value for the time, money, and effort we put in.And this is exactly what this feature is about. Read on to discover which the best engine swaps you can make right now.

Best Engine Swaps: Toyota 1/2JZ to anything RWD

The JZ is arguably the best all-round inline six-cylinder engine ever made. So, it’s no surprise JZ conversions make for the best engine swaps.

We’ve seen these swaps made to countless cars over the years – even models that already have fantastic factory-fitted engines such as Nissan Skylines, 3-Series BMWs, Honda S2000s, and Mazda RX7s. The JZ swap really is that good.

The JZ motor is still relatively common and inexpensive considering the massive tuning potential on offer. It’s easy to see why a JZ swap is so tempting, and for many cars there are full fitting kits available too.

Full conversion kits allow you to run a BMW gearbox if you want, making it one of the best engine swaps available for any RWD with an engine bay long enough for an inline six.

Best Engine Swaps: VAG 1.8T in to any FWD or mid-engine RWD

Compact, super cheap, hugely tunable, and with a strong transmission. The 1.8-litre 20V turbo lump found in countless VAG vehicles has became one of the most popular engine swaps in to, well quite frankly, anything.

The most common place you’ll find the 1.8T outside of its factory installation is still in Mk1 (check out this 1.8T Mk1 Golf), Mk2, and Mk3 Golfs, That’s thanks to its relatively ease to upgrade, but we’ve seen 1.8Ts in Renault 5s and Clios, Peugeot 205s, Lotus Elises, MR2s, even a Ford Focus and a Mk3 Escort. There’s no reason why you couldn’t put one in anything you fancy.

While there’s no non-VAG fitting kits out there, there is a lot of info available for 1.8T engine swaps. Plus, they’re still cheap and plentiful, so doing the conversion is far less of a headache than most engine swaps. What are you waiting for?

Best Engine Swaps: GM LS Series V8 Into Anything RWD

The default engine swap for just about anything is the good ol’ LS V8. These swaps are so common some people have started considering them boring. Trust us, no LS-swapped car is boring from behind the wheel.

If you didn’t already know, the LS series is GM’s modern V8. From the factory it made it’s way into everything from pick-up trucks to Corvettes, and was available in sizes ranging from 4.8-litres to 7.0-litres. And they all have one thing in common – massive tuning potential.

500bhp is standard or comes from simple bolt-on upgrades for the performance versions. And the smaller truck versions are incredibly strong and capable of 1000bhp-plus, even on standard internals. It’s no wonder the LS V8 is one of the best engine swaps of all time.

Doing a big V8 engine swap usually has three major issues. Firstly, it’s hard to shoehorn one in to your car. Secondly, they’re usually all hooked up to automatic transmissions. And thirdly, they’re usually bloody heavy, which ruins handling.

But not the LS. It’s no heavier than a Toyota 2JZ or similar. There are plenty of off-the-shelf LS conversion kits for most popular RWD cars. And not only do the LS engines come with super strong manual boxes as standard, there’s also full conversion kits available to allow you to use the common, cheap, but very strong BMW gearboxes. Ideal.

Best Engine Swaps: Honda K20 into Toyota MR2s and Lotus Elises

We don’t need to tell Honda fans how good the K20 engine is, but for the rest of you, listen up. It really is about the best transversely-mounted engine you can get. Capable of over 300bhp when tuned even when naturally aspirated is impressive enough but add some boost with a supercharger or turbo conversion and things get really crazy.

Massive power, massive revs, strong transmissions, and decent reliability too. No wonder it’s considered one of the best engine swaps you can make. The K20 is still popular when swapped into earlier Civics, and more recently has found homes in the Mk6 Ford Fiesta ST. But perhaps one of the best swaps is a K20 fitted to the back of mid-engine sports cars like the Toyota MR2 or Lotus Elise and Exige.

There are full kits and even specialists dedicated to K20 engine swaps in to MR2s and Elises, so if you want a mid-engine RWD supercar-beater, this is the way to go.

Best Engine Swaps: Saab Turbo into Vauxhall

Saab isn’t the first company you think of when it comes to tuning or best engine swaps. But it was one of the pioneers of turbocharging and made some damn good motors. And, because it was part of the GM group from the 1990s-onwards, those engines share a lot of parts with another GM brand, Vauxhall.

That means it’s easy to put the strong and tunable turbocharged Saab engines in to both front- and rear-wheel-drive Vauxhalls. For the front-wheel-drive cars, nearly all of the component parts are interchangeable from Saab to Vauxhall. You can buy a scrap Saab 900 or 9-3 Turbo and more-or-less swap the entire thing over to your FWD Vauxhall. Which is nice.

For rear-wheel-drive engine swaps it’s not quite so simple. The main headache here is finding a suitable gearbox. But would you believe it? The Omega tranny bolts directly to the Saab engine. So, as rear-wheel-drive swaps go, this one’s pretty damn easy too.

Best Engine Swaps: Toyota 1UZ into anything RWD

The 4.0-litre 1UZ V8 typically found in big Lexus models was unheard of for years, but these days it’s one of the best engine swaps money can buy.

Designed as a race engine, it is incredibly over-built for the standard power levels. It’s capable of massive power and high revs with ease.

Since people have noticed the 1UZ’s potential, using it as a donor for engine swaps has become popular. We’ve seen them fitted all manner of RWD cars, in naturally aspirated, turbocharged, and supercharged form.

While they only ever came with an auto ‘box as standard, there are kits for Toyota, BMW, and Nissan manual boxes.

Another big reason the 1UZ is so popular is due to its very lightweight and compact design; it’s barely any heavier than a typical four cylinder. This allows the 1UZ to slide into smaller RWD cars like MX5s and AE86s without negatively affecting the handling – we’ve even recently seen one fitted to a Ford Focus ST170, complete with twin turbos!

Swapping engines from the same manufacturer

Robbing a bigger, more powerful motor from another model from the same manufacturer as your car can make for some of the easiest and best engine swaps available. Here’s a few options of how taking parts from a bigger brother can improve your car.

N54 into any BMW

The N54 is the 3.0-litre twin-turbo motor found in the BMW 335i amongst others. Quite frankly it’s an amazing piece of kit, and makes for some of the best engine swaps going. It’s incredibly strong, incredibly tuneable, and with a pretty indestructible gearbox to match. It’s not too expensive either. But it’s not the easiest engine to swap; complicated electronics mean fitting now into an earlier E36 or even E46 isn’t a straightforward bolt-in job. But the reward on offer matches the difficulty to install, so it’s still one of the best engine swaps you can make.

Z20LET into Vauxhall Corsa engine swap

C20XE and C20LET swaps into Novas and Corsa Bs formed the basis of Fast Car magazine for a large portion of the 1990s and early 2000s. Today the same principals apply to the later Z20LET engine and the Corsa C.

Corsa Cs cost peanuts and weigh less than 1000kg. Z20LETs are similarly cheap, yet are easy to tune. And full fitting kits costs just a few hundred quid. Fitting a Z20LET to a Corsa C is a marriage made in heaven. No wonder this is a hugely popular conversion; it’s one of the cheapest and easiest engine swaps out there.

Puma 1.7 into Mk5 Ford Fiesta Zetec Z engine swap

If you’re looking for a bolt-on engine swap, then look no further. The Ford Fiesta Mk5 shares a platform with the Puma, meaning the Puma’s VVT-equipped 123bhp 1.7-litre Zetec SE engine literally bolts straight in place of the Fiesta’s 100bhp 1.6-litre. It’s so quick and easy Fast Ford magazine even fitted one in less than 24 hours for a mag feature a few years ago.

Breakers even sell complete kits of all the parts you’ll need: engine, gearbox, ECU, wiring loom, ignition key, and spa on, to make it a simple bolt-in conversion. Even the wiring – typically one of the biggest headaches – is a plug-and-play job. Make sure you get the key and transponder ring; the key is coded to the ECU, but it all plugs straight in.

This is one of the best Ford engine swaps you can make and is probably the best engine swap for a beginner. Plus, 23 percent gains for a day’s work isn’t to be sniffed at!

VTEC B-Series, H22A or K-Series engine swaps

There’s a whole heap of non-performance Hondas out there, but it’s easy to swap in a VTEC B-Series, H22A, or K-Series. These engine swaps will fit most 1990s-onwards Hondas, partly due to the interchangeability of parts from the factory and partly thanks to the huge Honda tuning scene.

Swapping big power Honda motors in to base models makes a lot of sense. They’re more common to find for sale than the hot models, and many owners will start with the smaller engine model when younger but want more power once insurance prices drop. The best reason though, is because cars like a K-Series-powered EG Civic don’t exist from the factory. Creating your own is undeniably cool. Plus, it makes for a very fast, lightweight car – even with a standard engine. Add some boost, and you’ll create an animal!

Cosworth YB engine swaps

The legendary Cosworth YB engine has been fitted to almost everything over the years. We’ve seen it in a wide range of modified cars, from classic Minis to Caterhams, BMWs to Transit vans. But its most loyal following is, unsurprisingly, the fast Ford scene. That means the YB has been squeezed into almost every Blue Oval you think of; from classic Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts, Capris, and Cortinas, right through to modern Fiestas and Focuses, and even a Ka! (You can check out that Ford Focus Cosworth photographed above).

Traditionally, the conversion used to involve chopping up a Sierra floorpan and stitching that into whatever body your were building. Then you’d simply bolt on all the Cossie components; either 4×4 or rear-wheel-drive spec. Most Sierras are rotten beyond repair these days, so more modern methods involve fabricating custom mounting points. Typically the YB is used alongside Ford transmissions (MT75 for 4×4, or BorgWarner T5 for RWD) and differentials/driveshafts. But mating the YB to a suitably beefy BMW gearbox and/or stronger Toyota rear diff is becoming increasingly popular.

Either way, when the YB is in the bay, tuning is seemingly limitless. The stock 204bhp is nothing to write home about, but simple bolt-ons will take that closer to 400bhp. Open it up and tinker some more and well over 600bhp is easy to achieve. We’ve seen YBs producing over 1000bhp, and regularly see 700-800bhp road cars.

The only downside is the price. As parts become rarer, and the desirability of original cars goes up, the price for buying, maintaining, and modifying a YB has rocketed in recent years. That said, it’s still one the of best engine swaps you can make, to almost anything.

Nissan RB into 200SX

For huge tuning potential and an insane soundtrack, the Skyline’s RB six-cylinder is a brilliant engine swap for the 200SX. The conversion is almost a direct drop-in; it’s so easy it has been suggested Nissan planned to fit the RB in the first place. There are few things to sort out, but nothing too taxing. Do it, and you’ll add an extra pair of cylinders and extra 500cc, another turbo, and loads of tuning potential!

Zetec Turbo into FWD Fords

Words: Stav & Jamie

The post Best Engine Swaps appeared first on Fast Car.

We’re spoilt for horsepower these days, we really are. It wasn’t all that long ago (or so it seems) that we were squeezing incremental gains from wheezing CVHs and OHV eight-valvers to try and pick our way north of 120hp or, if the gods were smiling on us, perhaps even 130… the hot hatch game has snowballed beyond all recognition in recent years. But even during these escalating horsepower wars, with warrantied shopping hatches sailing above 300hp and rival tuners bickering about the legitimacy of bridge-to-gantry times, it’s still worth taking a step back and just marvelling at the glorious lunacy of Ford’s decision to bolt a 2.5-litre, five-cylinder engine into the Focus ST. And not only that but strapping a turbo to it as well. How brilliantly, spectacularly unnecessary was that?

The Mk2 Focus platform was a formidable base even in stock shopper-spec form; much like the Mk1 that came before it, Ford’s engineers put a huge amount of time, effort and investment into ensuring that every Focus that left the factory was a sweet little handler, so you could be guaranteed a good time even in a basic 1.4. Launched in 2004, the Mk2 used the Ford C1 platform, which was also shared with the likes of the Volvo S40 and Mazda3; it carried over the basic suspension design from the Mk1 Focus and wrapped it up in a bodyshell that was 10% stiffer, and keen attention was paid to improving the fit-and-finish, and quality of interior materials.

Ford Focus ST Mk2 history

The Ford Focus ST Mk2 launched in 2005, and it was a very effective tool in reframing people’s perceptions of hot Fords. In the old days, the XR range was the warm option and the RS cars were the really hot ones. So if we instead had ST and RS, then the same should apply, yes? Well, yes and no. The RS was still the hotter car, but there really wasn’t anything lukewarm about the Focus ST.

Indeed, it positively blew people’s minds with its use of a Volvo-derived five-cylinder 2.5-litre turbo, packing an unstressed 225hp. That’s Escort RS Cosworth power in a car that’d happily and comfortably pootle to the shops if it needed to. And of course, the modifying fraternity pounced on the thing with gusto. Race and rally developments quickly trickled down to road cars, and before you knew it every town across the UK was resonating to the gritty harmonic of 400hp Focuses with anti-lag.

Focus ST Mk2 Trim levels

The ST was available in either three- or five-door format and the spec levels available were ST, ST-2 and ST-3. ST was the base, and relatively few cars were sold in this spec as the upper levels offered such excellent value in terms of additional equipment for the slightly larger outlay. Standard equipment offered the ST-specific body kit and boot spoiler, air-conditioning, Recaro seats and front fog lamps; the ST-2 level added Xenon headlights, a heated windscreen, ESP, a single-disc Sony stereo (instead of the standard-issue Ford stereo), and more speakers; ST-3 also provided leather trim with heated front seats, a sculpted rear bench that made it a four- rather than five-seater, and a six-disc Sony stereo.

There were also a whole bunch of extras available on the options list, including a sunroof, heated cloth seats, climate control, Bluetooth connectivity, DVD sat-nav, Sony DAB, USB inputs, Global Close (which shut all the windows when you locked the car with the remote; this also equipped five-door models with electric rear windows), the Light and Sight pack (auto lights, auto wipers, auto-dimming rear-view mirror), exterior stripe kits, solar-reflect windscreen, keyless entry, and parking sensors. So it’s quite likely that when you’re searching the classifieds, you won’t find two cars of exactly the same spec.

Facelifted cars

A facelift in 2008, which some refer to as the Mk2.5, brought in Ford’s ‘Kinetic Design’ language. The same basic shape remained, but almost every panel was revised; the nose had new headlights and trapezoidal grilles, the wheel arches were beefed up, the tailgate was re-contoured with differently-shaped glass, and there were new rear lights and a different rear bumper.

The swansong of the pre-facelift cars (which fans refer to as ‘PFL’) was the ST500 special edition of 2007; the ‘500’ in the name referred to the number of examples built, and these specials came in Panther Black with silver stripes, and a boisterous interior trimmed in red leather. From late-2008, Ford officially sanctioned some upgrades from revered aftermarket tuner Mountune. The Mountune MP260 kit cost £1120 plus labour and included a bigger intercooler, K&N panel filter and a remap, elevating the numbers to 256hp and 295lb ft. Available colours included Electric Orange, Diamond White (and later, Frozen White and pearlescent Ice White), Panther Black, Colorado Red, Moondust Silver, Sea Grey, and Performance Blue.

Which one would we buy? 

There’s a huge amount of choice on the market. Because the Ford Focus ST Mk2 was such a wildly popular model, you really can pinpoint your spec and go hunting for a decent example, rather than having your choices necessarily restricted by supply as can so often happen with performance cars. Our shout would be a facelifted three-door, in ST-3 spec so it comes with all the toys. Finding one fully loaded with options would be good, such as the Light and Sight pack, parking sensors and DAB stereo. And it’d have to be finished in Electric Orange because there’s no point messing about is there?

What to look out for on the Ford Focus ST Mk2

That Volvo-sourced motor is an impressively tough unit, although there are a few key things to keep an eye out for. A persistent misfire, coupled with mayonnaise around the oil filler and white smoke from the exhaust, is a sign of split cylinder liners. It’s not overly complex to remedy, but you’ll be changing the cambelt and water pump at the same time as shimming the liners so it turns into an expensive job. It’s worth highlighting that this failure occurs in relatively few Focuses, but there’s no way of knowing whether your car will suffer; several aftermarket tuners offer what’s known as a ‘block mod’ as a preventative measure, for around £800.

Boost solenoids are a weak point – the needle on your boost gauge is the telltale here: if it dances around at random, or struggles to get over the halfway marker, that’ll be your issue. Alternators can also go haywire, and this will probably throw up a battery warning light and/or make the headlights flicker. And another fairly common problem is for the oil filter housing diaphragm to split – if the car’s making an unsettling whistling noise at idle, whip out the dipstick and see if it stops; if so, that’s a problem that needs fixing. A new unit is
around £250.

Exterior problems

In terms of the body, the main trouble spot is where the rear bumper meets the arches; if the bumper is even slightly misaligned then it’ll incrementally rub the paint away which will then rust if left unchecked. Ford’s own fix was ultimately to fit small plastic pads between the two points – and you’ll also find this on later cars around the boot lid, which was prone to water ingress. The tailgate hinge seam fails and lets
the rain in, so check for a damp or musty-smelling boot.

Inside the cabin, things are generally tough and hard-wearing, with the only real issue being the Recaro seats: while they’re impressively supportive and attractively designed, the bases can be prone to cracking – you’ll know if this has happened because they’ll make a creaking noise when you sit down.

Verdict

Ford has always been a go-to marque for so many hot hatch enthusiasts, and the Mk2 Focus ST proved that they still had the chops to play with the big kids while also keeping it real in the mainstream. Indeed, the Mk2 ST was really the spiritual successor to the iconic Mk1 Focus RS, and it’s been so universally embraced by the enthusiast scene and the tuner market that it’s destined to go down in the annals of history as an all-time classic.

On Top Gear, Clarkson named it ‘the ASBO’, but rather than wilt in the headlights, the Focus took the hooligan idea and ran with it, the outlaw image helping to bolster its reputation as a mischief-maker. Today, the Ford Focus ST Mk2 represents a huge amount of power, equipment and quality for the price. And the tuning potential? It’s positively stratospheric.

Tech Spec: Ford Focus ST Mk2

Engine: 2.5-litre turbocharged five-cylinder
Transmission: Six-speed manual gearbox
Max Power: 225hp @ 6000rpm
Max Torque: 236lb ft @ 1600-4000rpm
0-62mph: 6.8 seconds
Top Speed: 150mph

Love performance cars? We host a number of car events throughout the year, including Europe’s biggest Ford event, Ford Fair! Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page to see what’s coming up next. 

The post Ford Focus ST Mk2 Buying Guide + Tuning Tips appeared first on Fast Car.

If you’re looking for the best Black Friday deals for your car, then you’ve come to the right place. Here, we’re putting together some of the best automotive deals this Black Friday 2024 event to ensure you’re getting the best value for money. Typically, Black Friday events are associated with clothing, electronics and other household items, but that’s not to say there aren’t some mega savings on products for your car this November 29th. If you want to capitalize on them, be sure to hurry – today is your last chance to do so!

Best Automotive Black Friday Deals 2024

We’ll be keeping our eyes peeled for the very best deals this Black Friday for you, and will continually update this page as and when we hear of them. So if you’re in need of detailing equipment, in-car tech like dash cams, stereos and speakers or your car maintenance equipment, you’re in the right place. We’ll also be looking out for the best deals when it comes to car modifications. Those more expensive items like suspension and big brake kits are also on offer during this Black Friday period, and we’ll be listing them here for you. Don’t worry, we only recommend products we know to be good.

What is Black Friday and when is it?

Black Friday is a retail event where retailers offer time-limited savings on certain products. It’s origins lay in the 1960s in the US where shoppers filled Philadelphia’s streets following thanksgiving. This led the Police to describe the day as Black Friday due to the chaos it created. Today, however, it’s a date in November that represents an opportunity for retailers to sell more products at the start of the Christmas shopping period. It’s also no longer restricted to the high street, now you can shop the best deals online, too. It’s important to note here that retailers often label products as having a high discount rate, but have been know to be cheaper during other times of the year.

The annual shopping event Black Friday will take place from November 29th in 2024. That being said, you’ll often find deals starting to appear earlier than November 29th, and the end date, December 2nd, is in line with the start of Cyber Monday, another retail event but this time specifically targeting electrical products.

How to get the best Black Friday deals

If you want to make sure you’re getting the saving quoted, then you need to do your research. Websites like CamelCamelCamel (Amazon price tracker) are great for tracking the history of product prices to ensure it wasn’t cheaper at another point. Be diligent, as always, online, ensure you trust the website you’re using. Don’t be sucked in by huge savings, if it’s too good to be true, it usually is. That’s not to say that huge savings can’t be found, in the past we’ve nabbed products with up to 50% off!

What Is Cyber Monday?

Cyber Monday follows the annual Black Friday event, and like Black Friday, is a sales event however this time is usually more specific to electrical items. Think of it like an extended Black Friday event, and the last big annual sale event before Christmas. This year, it takes place on December 2nd. Here, we’ll be looking for the best in-car tech on sale for your car.

The post Best Black Friday Deals 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

BMW’s relaunch of the Mini brand has to be the perfect example of how to replace a motoring icon. Yet, after five years and 1,000,000 R50 and R53 Minis sold, 2006 was time for the second-generation range. And boy did Mini get it right as today the R56 is one of the best used cars you can buy.

What stayed the same was the Mini’s mixture of retro-inspired looks, keen driving experience and wide selection of personalization. But to address some of the criticisms of the first-generation Mini hatch, quality was improved with a bolder, all-new interior that was less likely to rattle.

Even bigger changes took place under the Mini’s clamshell bonnet. A tie-up with Peugeot/Citroen (PSA) saw the Chrysler-supplied petrol and Toyota D-4D diesel replaced with sophisticated and efficient 1.4- and 1.6-liter Prince engines, with the Cooper S and John Cooper Works (JCW) versions now being turbocharged rather than supercharged.  All models had six-speed manual or optional automatic transmissions.

The diesel engine was originally supplied by PSA too, in 1.6-liter form, then later coming from BMW in 1.6 and 2.0-liter forms.

It was developed further, with spin-off models including the quirky R55 Clubman estate, the sporty R58 Coupe and R59 Roadster, and even the commercial Clubvan, based on the R55 Clubman. The R56 hatch was eventually retired in 2013 and replaced by the current F56 hatch.

R56 Mini history

In January 2010, Mini made significant changes to the Prince petrol engines, the R56 Mini Cooper received a power hike to 120bhp, while peak torque remained the same at 118lb.ft. The Cooper S shared all these new engine features, but added a twin-scroll turbocharger, direct petrol injection and fully variable valve control. The latter was BMW’s proven Valvetronic system, which adjusts valve lift and opening times in direct relationship to the driver’s command on the throttle pedal.

The result was 9bhp more peak power at 181bhp while peak torque was 184lb ft, delivered from as low as 1600rpm through to 5000rpm. With the clever overboost function, peak torque jumped to 192lb ft for short periods.

August 2010 brought significant changes, with the LCI (Life Cycle Impulse) facelift. Redesigned front and rear bumpers, new rear lights with LEDs, fresh colors and alloys arrived, while inside received revised steering wheels and center console, with new controls for the stereo and air-conditioning. There were also improvements to the information and entertainment systems.

Second-generation R56 Mini most common problems and how to cure them

It is 18 years since the earliest R56 models hit the roads, so let us identify the key faults to help keep yours in top condition. We’ll also offer some advice on how to cure them, and prevent them from happening in the future to ensure the long term reliability of your R56 Mini Cooper S.

Carbon deposits coke up the backs of the valves and require specialist treatment

Coking of inlet valves

On second-generation Mini models, the head is likely to coke up, due to build-up of carbon around the valves and intake ports. This is the result of the R56 Mini using direct injection for performance and economy. The only way to solve this is to have an engine decoked, where crushed walnut shell is blasted at the inlet manifold and the tops of the valves. Watch for the engine warning light on the speedo, plus poor acceleration and sluggish performance on the test drive.

Coil Packs

Another failure that should be obvious on the test drive is failing coil pack(s). There are four of these in the Mini’s engine that are regulated by the ECU to create a better spark and thus give better combustion and performance. You’ll be able to spot when they’re failing as the engine will feel down on power and misfire. The coil packs are located under a cover on the top of the engine; a set of four should cost around $120 / £100 and are a straightforward DIY job to replace – but, of course, specialists can do this for you too.

High-Pressure Fuel Pump

If you’re looking at a Cooper S, you need to check that the high-pressure fuel pump isn’t failing. A big giveaway on the test drive is if the engine surges while you’re driving. This is usually followed by poor starting and rough running afterwards, with an engine warning light on the dashboard. The only solution is a replacement high-pressure fuel pump, which costs around £600 at a specialist.

Bypass Valve

It’s also worth checking the condition of the bypass valve on the test drive of any Cooper S and JCW. Made of plastic, inside the valve there is a delicate diaphragm that can become pinched or holed. This results in laggy acceleration, which if left will eventually cause the engine to go into limp-home mode, with an engine warning light showing on the dashboard.

R56 Mini Death Rattle

Another more serious fault that affects N14 Cooper S and JCW engines is the well-documented problem with the timing chain and chain tensioner. Called the ‘death rattle’ thanks to the loud clatter, this is most prominent when started from cold. Most of the affected Mini’s should have had this problem rectified by now. If not attended to, they become noisier and will break, destroying the top end of the engine. The only solution involves changing the major timing components, which can be done at a specialist.

Suspension

Front wishbones and rear anti-roll bar links can fail, leading to clonking suspension. You should also check the condition of the bushes and shock absorbers. The shock absorbers themselves are easy enough to replace and are not costly. More recently, check the condition of the trick coilover adjustable shocks on the fastest GPs; the subject of many warranty claims, they are known to fail and knock.

Oil Leaks

Like the first-generation R53 Mini, you must check there’s plenty of oil in a second-gen car before starting. The N14 and N18 engines in the Cooper S and JCW, in particular, like a drink – as much as a liter of oil for every 1000 miles. More of an issue with older cars, popular failure points for leaking oil are the rocker cover, crank seals, sump, turbo oil feed, front and rear main bearing seals, solenoids and cylinder heads. Head gasket failure isn’t unheard of. The only obvious solution is to have any leaks repaired.

Thermostat Housing

Another common engine problem on second-generation Minis is the thermostat housing, located on the left-hand side of the engine. A common cause of leaks, its plastic construction and close proximity to the exhaust manifold leads to cracks in the housing and leaks. If the leaks aren’t obvious, another giveaway is a low coolant level that needs constant top-ups. A genuine thermostat housing costs around $150 / £120, but decent-quality replacements start at around $90 / £70, with labor on top.

R56 Mini Transmission

The use of stronger German-made Getrag manual transmissions means manual transmission issues are nowhere near as common as with the first-generation cars. But the gearshifts can become sloppy, with the lever not sitting centrally when in neutral. This is the result of a worn cup in the linkage, which we’re told is a simple and easy fix. Other than that, clutches can wear out quite quickly. On the test drive, see if it slips when you accelerate in a high gear.

There’s also the less popular six-speed automatic transmission manufactured by Aisin, which can suffer from problems with changing gears and downshifts.

Electrics

Improved electrics mean problems with the R56 Mini hatch are rare, but they can arise if the earthing strap fails, so check it carefully. Also, look for stereo speakers that don’t work, poorly electric window motors, failing central locking, and broken dash MP3 sockets.

Air conditioning is a popular option, so it’s rare to find a Mini it’s not fitted to. Make sure it’s working on the test drive; if it isn’t, the evaporator might have failed. This is a costly repair at over £500, with the first sign being white dust blowing through the vents. The tilt/slide sunroof is another popular option, so make sure it slides smoothly as it’s easily jammed and repairs could be costly.

On Convertible and Roadster models, check the electric hood goes up and down as it should, as electrical failures can be costly to diagnose and repair.

A start-stop system was fitted to all Mini models from 2007 and this has been known to fail, causing the car to stall at junctions and then not want to restart – or, more seriously, stop working altogether and leaving an error message on the dashboard. This can be costly and difficult to diagnose.

R56 Mini Bodywork, interior and wheels

Unlike the first-generation R53, rust and lacquer peel doesn’t appear to have affected the R56 Mini hatch. Any rust issues could be the result of poor paint repairs. But check the front edge of the bonnet and bumper for stone-chip damage. It is also worth checking for parking damage on the doors and rear quarters.

The Clubman, Convertible, Roadster and Coupe have more compromised rear visibility, although the majority have rear parking sensors. Still, look for dents and scratches to the bumpers and bodywork, though.

The windscreen on second-generation models might be smaller thanks to the taller body, but they’re still quite upright in design and as such are susceptible to stone chips and cracks.

Inside, the dashboard is more stylish but it also suffers from rattles and squeaks, especially on early cars. Look for wear on the interior trim and seat bolsters. There are plenty of used second-generation Minis on sale, so there’s no need to buy one with a tatty interior.

Check for curbing damage on the alloy wheels; Cooper and JCW models have the biggest rims and are more susceptible. Wheel refurbs are affordable at specialists, but the costs soon add up if more than one wheel needs work. Excessive damage could also be a clue to suspension damage.

Buying the best R56 MINI

When you’re on the hunt for an R56 MINI, it’s easy to get swept up by the excitement. But remember—hidden issues can turn your dream car into a nightmare. This is where the Carly App and Carly code reader step in, acting as your personal detective.

With Carly, you’re not just relying on a visual inspection or the seller’s word. You can dive deep into the car’s history, check for hidden faults, and even spot signs of mileage tampering, which is unfortunately quite common in the used car market. Carly’s OBD-II scanner lets you scan the car’s ECUs and modules to cross-check mileage across different systems—because tampering with one display doesn’t fool the car’s brain. Carly’s free Car History Checker even allows you to pull up vital details on the vehicle’s past, from mileage history to any outstanding finance or write-offs. No more wondering if the low mileage is too good to be true!

To really understand how essential this is, check out this guide on car fault codes, and make sure you’re aware of mileage tampering. Carly’s got your back—no nasty surprises! Want to learn more? Unlock hidden car secrets with Carly’s free car history checker.

R56 Mini model timeline

• November 2006 – R56 Cooper (118bhp) and 171bhp Cooper S hatchback models launched in the UK.
• November 2007 – Cooper (118bhp), Cooper D diesel (108bhp) and 171bhp Cooper S versions of the quirky Clubman estate launched.
• Spring 2008 – Performance range-topper, the John Cooper Works (JCW) launched with 208bhp. JCW adds bespoke sports transmission, suspension and Brembo front brake calipers, with prices starting at £20,995.
• March 2009 – Cooper (120bhp), Cooper S (181bhp) and 208bhp John Cooper Works (JCW) second-generation Convertible models launched.
• December 2009 – Finally brought a Clubman version of the John Cooper Works (JCW) range-topper. Power is up to 208bhp, with a top speed of 148mph.
• April 2011 – The fastest R56 diesel, the Cooper SD, is launched. It’s powered by a 2.0-litre turbo engine that comes courtesy of BMW. Key numbers are the 141bhp and 255lb.ft torque, giving an 8.0-second 0-to-60mph acceleration time, yet still returning a combined consumption figure of 65.7mpg. Cooper SD hatch, Clubman Convertible models are available.
• April 2012 – R58 Cooper (120bhp), Cooper S (181bhp), 141bhp Cooper SD and 208bhp JCW two-seater Roadster models launched.
• February 2013 – One (98bhp), Cooper (120bhp) and 112bhp Cooper D Clubvan models launched. Clubvan is basically a Mini Clubman without the rear seats, plus sealed rear windows.
• February 2013 – The most extreme development of the R56 JCW hatch, another GP two-seater is launched after its reveal at Mini United in 2012. Power for the N18 engine is up to 215bhp thanks to an ECU tweak. Acceleration to 62mph now takes 6.3 seconds, just two-tenths faster, and the top speed is the same as the JCW GP at 150mph. Plus it has trick adjustable coilover suspension.
• April 2013 – R58 Cooper (120bhp), Cooper S (181bhp), Cooper SD (141bhp) and 208bhp JCW two-seater hard-top Coupe models launched.

US vs UK spec R56 Minis

Apart from US spec front and rear wheel arch lights, there are no other bodywork changes between UK and US. Minis. Bigger differences are the choice of Mini models available. Do not expect to find the entry-level One, as only Cooper, Cooper S and John Cooper Works models have ever been available in the U.S.

Diesel is another that the US market didn’t get. As a result, there are no One D, Cooper D, or Cooper SD models.

The quirky Clubman estate might have proved popular in US, but the Americans were denied the short-lived Clubman-based van, the Clubvan. There are, however, a couple of US-only limited edition R56 models, such as the ultra-rare ‘Laurel Sport’ and ‘Rally Edition’ Clubman Cooper S.

R56 Mini Prices

• Sub- £2,000: Earliest 2006 1.6 Coopers can be found for under £1000, even at dealers. Early Cooper S proces start at around £1,500, but closer to £2000 buys a better spec example with lower mileage.
• £2,000 – £5,000: Here’s where you’ll find the lowest mileage and best condition 2008 and 2009 cars. High mileage facelift 2011-on models and early JCWs also fall into this bracket
• £5,000 – £10,000: For this budget, you get the lowest mileage, late 11 to 13 plate Cooper S cars with the best specification, and later model, lower mileage JCWs. Top-spec GP2s start at £10,000, rising to over £15,000 for the nicest examples.

And in the US?

• $4,000 – $9,000: Earliest 2007 Coopers start at $4,000, but these have high miles, and for a couple of thousand bucks more, the faster Cooper S with a clean title and plenty of extras can be yours. Later base spec Coopers are also here.
• $9,000 – $12,000: Here’s where you’ll find the best spec, lowest mileage Cooper and Cooper S LCI facelift cars with around 80,000 miles. Plus, the earliest John Cooper Works hatches.
• $13,000 – $20,000 plus: For this budget, you get into the highest mileage GPs, plus late 2011 to 2013 plate registration Cooper S models with the best specification, some still at Mini dealers.

We spotted one low mileage GP2, with just under 7,000 miles, priced at over $34,000!

If you’re now ready to take on your own project, have a read of our R56 Mini tuning guide. Alternatively, read what we’ve got to say about the R55 Clubman if you need something a little bit more practical.

Words: Martyn Collins. (Martyn was the editor for Modern Mini Magazine and is also author of the book New Mini)

The post R56 Mini Buyer’s Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Work smarter, not harder. That’s a phrase you’ve likely heard countless times before. Well, I’m going to use it here because when it comes to car detailing, having the right tools makes the job so much easier. Snow foam is an essential part of the pre-wash process, and a powerful snow foam will remove a lot of the dirt and grime off of your car on its own. As a result, there will be less work involved in physically washing it, which makes your life easier. As a bonus, if your car is cleaner when you start the contact wash, there’s less chance of damaging the paint. The 10 minutes or so that snow foaming takes is absolutely worth it to not only remove dirt, but also to protect your paintwork.

Who is testing the snow foam products?

There’s a huge range of snow foam out there to choose from. As Fast Car’s Detailing Product tester, I’ve done the hard work to make it easier for you to choose which one to buy. I’ve picked eight popular snow foams on the market right now and pitted them against each other in a group test.

The biggest thing I’m looking for here is a snow foam that delivers impressive cleaning performance. I will naturally take value for money into account as well, but I want something that will do some serious cleaning, and if that comes at a slight price increase it can be worth it. That being said, there are plenty of expensive products out there that are outperformed by cheaper options, which is where this test comes in.

There are some very impressive cleaning products here, so read on to see which is the best snow foam. Make sure you get your car ready for the show season! You can check out our Fast Car Entertainment events here. 

Best Snow Foam At A Glance

• Best Overall and Editor’s Choice: Bilt Hamber Touch-Less 5L. RRP: £39.95, buy now! $59.95, buy now! 
• Approved: Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam. RRP: £13.99, buy now! $21.95, buy now! 
• Approved: Griot’s Garage Foaming Surface Wash. RRP: £24.99, buy now! $21.99, buy now! 
• Best Value: Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam. RRP: £18.99, buy now! $30.90, buy now! 

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less – Best Overall and Editor’s Choice

• Size tested: 1.32 gallons/5 litres. RRP: £19.13, buy now! $59.95, buy now!
• Pros: Exceptional cleaning performance
• Cons: Working out panel impact ratio is fiddly

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less is about maximum cleaning, pure and simple. It’s not pH-neutral, there’s no fancy smell and doesn’t make a mountain of foam. It’s been designed to get your car as clean as possible in the pre-wash stage. And it does. There are some drawbacks, however, in that to get the correct dilution ratio, you need to work out the panel impact ratio for your foam lance. Bilt Hamber provides instructions on how to do this, thankfully, so once you get your head around the dilution, it’s a doddle. And you don’t have to worry about it unless you use a different foam lance.

You will find that you need more product than with other snow foams because of this. But that’s why Touch-Less comes in such a large, 5L container. The cleaning power is second-to-none, and it pulls dirt from your car’s panels like you wouldn’t believe. Bilt Hamber Touch-Less is the definition of work smarter, not harder. This is my go-to snow foam and the best on the market for me.

Take a look at our full review of Bilt Hamber’s Touch-Less snow foam here.

Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam – Approved

• Size tested: 1 litre / 33.8 fl oz. RRP: £13.99, buy now! $21.95, buy now!
• Pros: Impressive cleaning power despite being pH-neutral
• Cons: Just not quite as good as Touch-Less

Gtechniq’s W4 Citrus Foam snow foam is a coating-safe pH-neutral formula. That would normally suggest it won’t perform well, however, that’s not the case here. The secret to W4’s impressive performance is that it combines a citrus degreaser with a foaming agent. A citrus pre-wash is something you can use before applying snow foam. By integrating it into the snow foam, Gtechniq has upped its cleaning power significantly. At the same time, it’s still pH-neutral, which means it won’t degrade any wax you’ve got on the paint, unlike with the Bilt Hamber product above. 

W4 Citrus Foam comes out a little watery but clings well. It really impressed me, and the combo of citrus degreaser and foaming agent cuts through the dirt with ease. Using 3.38 fl. oz (100ml) of W4 as per the instructions means you’ll get 10 washes, which is not bad. The combination of impressive cleaning power and pH-neutral formula is a real winner. Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam is another snow foam that I will be adding to my collection. However, Bilt Hamber’s product just outshone it in out and out cleaning power. However, those wanting to preserve waxes should opt for Gtechniq’s impressive Citrus Foam. 

For more advice, rear our full review of the Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam.

Griot’s Garage Foaming Surface Wash – Approved

• Size tested: 1.034 litre / 35 fl oz. RRP: £24.99, buy now! $21.99, buy now!
• Pros: Good cleaning performance while also being pH-neutral
• Cons: Just falls short of matching the top two

I’ve tried a few of Griot’s products in the past and have been mightily impressed, so was hopeful of seeing a similar result while testing its Foaming Surface Wash. And I have to say, this is another Griot’s product that has impressed me. Following the instructions for the Griot’s The Boss Foam Cannon is best as it’s like a normal snow foam lance. That means using 1.6 fl. oz (47ml) per wash, which equates to 20 washes per litre. This makes it good value, despite the higher initial price point. 

The foam had a nice consistency and stayed on the panel for a long time. Despite its pH-neutral formula, Griot’s Garage Foaming Surface Wash delivered impressive cleaning power. It was one of the best foams here, and this is another snow foam I will be using personally. And as a sidenote, the milky product has a very pleasant coconut smell. 

Read the full review of Griot’s Garage Foaming Surface Wash.

Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam – Best Value

• Size tested: 1 litre / 33.8 flz oz. RRP: £15.85, buy now! $30.99, buy now!
• Pros: A little goes a long way
• Cons: Cleaning performance is only average

Yet another multi-purpose product, Koch Chemie GSF doubles up as a snow foam and shampoo. It’s got a nice cherry scent and is pH-neutral so it’s coating-safe. With it being German, I had high hopes for this snow foam. You only need 0.7 fl. oz (20ml) of product in a 1-litre snow foam lance, which means if you’re looking for value for money, this is your champion.

At that dilution ratio, you’ll get 50 washes from your 1-litre bottle. That makes it the cheapest snow foam here per wash by some margin. It delivered plenty of foam and stuck to the panel for a long time. Unfortunately, its cleaning power was only average, and this is, ultimately, a test of cleaning power.

Read full review of Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam here.

Masterson’s Mystic Snow Foam Auto Wash

• Size tested: 473ml / 16 fl oz. RRP: £10.95 / $14.99 buy now!
• Pros: Dual-purpose foam can be used in direct sunlight
• Cons: Cleaning power is not that impressive

Masterson’s Mystic Snow Foam is another dual-purpose product. You can use this as a regular shampoo, or put it through your foam lance as a snow foam. I love the marzipan smell, it’s pH-neutral and coating-safe, and it can also be used in direct sunlight. That’s a big deal, as it promises to leave behind no streaks or spots. If you clean your car in direct sunlight, this is the snow foam for you. 

However, its performance wasn’t that impressive. We used it at its lowest dilution of 30ml (1 fl. oz), and it was okay. It took a reasonable amount of dirt off the panel, and it’s a mid-position foam in this test. At 1 fl. oz dilution, it is very good value for money, though, which might sway your decision.

Want to know more about Masterson’s snow foam? Check out the Mystic Snow Foam Auto Wash review here.

Auto Finesse Avalanche

• Size tested: 500ml / 16.9 fl oz. RRP: £9.95, buy now. $16.95, buy now.
• Pros: pH-neutral with decent cleaning performance
• Cons: Vague dilution instructions

Auto Finesse Avalanche is another snow foam with a pleasant whiff of citrus. However, there’s no mention of there being any degreasing action at work here. There’s also no mention of pH level, but Auto Finesse says Avalanche is coating-friendly. It delivered some lovely foam that really clung to the panel. After rinsing it was clear that Avalanche had done some work on the dirt.

I will say I don’t like the vagueness of the instructions. Auto Finesse says you should use 1-2” of product in a 1-litre bottle. I measured this on the six snow foam lances I tested, and it ranges from around 100ml (3.38 fl. oz) to over 500ml (17 fl. oz). I would much rather have a clearer dilution ratio. No one is going to be using 17 fl. oz in one go, so 3.38 fl. oz per wash will give you 10 washes per litre. That makes it a little expensive here, but it’s not a bad snow foam.

Read our full review of Auto Finesse’s Avalanche snow foam here.

Chemical Guys Sticky Snowball

• Size tested: 16 fl oz/473ml. RRP: £15.99 / $12.99, buy now! 
• Pros: Can be used as a shampoo and snow foam
• Cons: Poor cleaning performance

Chemical Guys Sticky Snowball is advertised as being both a shampoo and a snow foam. I like the versatility because it means you don’t necessarily need to buy a separate shampoo. But I care about performance, and sadly, Chemical Guys Sticky Snowball did not deliver as well compared to others here. It made lots of very thick foam, and it stuck around on the panel, as its name suggested it would.

However, it performed poorly here and didn’t seem to do much cleaning at all. It’s well-priced, at least. At 30ml (1 fl. oz) per wash, you’ll get just over 15 washes from 16.9 fl. oz (500ml), which means 30 per litre. Even the higher concentration of 60ml (2 fl. oz) will give you 15 washes per litre of product. However, considering its performance at 1 fl. oz dilution, which is how I tested, you’d have to use 2 fl. oz each time. Maybe it would work better then, but I’d rather stick with something that I know performs really well.

For a closer look at Chemical Guys’ Sticky Snowball snow foam, read our full review of it here.

Angelwax Fastfoam

• Size tested: 1 litre / 33.8 fl. oz. RRP: $16.99, buy now! £12.45, buy now! 
• Pros: A decent all-rounder
• Cons: Just a bit average across the board

Fastfoam is billed as the British detailing company’s professional detailing snow foam. There’s not a lot of specific information about the formula or anything else, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.

I didn’t get the thickest foam, but it’s not always about that when it comes to cleaning – it’s the performance that matters. It did cling to the panel nicely, though. Post-rinse, I could see that it had taken some dirt off the panel. At the recommended dilution ratio, you’ll get 10 washes from the 1-litre bottle. It’s decent value and not a bad choice of snow foam.

Want to know more? Read our full review of Angelwax Fastfoam.

How Each Product Was Tested

I first performed a swipe test using a cotton pad on a section of the car’s panel. Then I applied each snow foam at the lowest suggested dilution ratio onto the dry panel. Some foams tell you to pre-rinse the panel, while others don’t. Tests have shown that snow foam generally performs better when applied to a dry panel, so that’s what I did. The snow foam was allowed to dwell for its suggested time, then rinsed off. The panel was allowed to dry, and then I carried out another swipe test from the same area. This allowed me to directly compare the amount of dirt remaining after using the foam.

What To Look For When Buying The Best Snow Foam

The most important thing is cleaning power and performance. This is why you are buying snow foam. There’s no point buying something that smells nice or delivers mountains of foam if it doesn’t clean properly. A large amount of foam does not automatically mean strong cleaning power. A pH-neutral foam is also worth looking at, as it won’t strip your wax or other coatings you might have applied to your car. If you like to apply wax regularly or use a wash and wax shampoo, then that won’t matter so much to you. But if you want your coating to last, it’s nice to know which snow foam won’t cause it to degrade.

Now you’ve got the right snow foam to perfect your car detailing, you’ve got no excuse not to have your car’s gleaming this show season. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page here.

The post Best Snow Foam In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Volkswagen created the original Hot Hatch way back in 1976 with its game-changing Mk1 Golf GTI. Since then, it hasn’t all been plain sailing for Wolfsburg in its bid to retain top Hot Hatch honours. Despite something of a rollercoaster ride throughout the various Golf generations, things got back on track with the Mk5 GTI. Thankfully, when the Mk7 Golf R arrived in 2014, the Golf was once again a serious contender for the Hot Hatch crown.

Introducing the Mk7 Golf R

With a 5.1secs dash to 62mph (4.9 for DSG), the Mk7 R was as quick as a 991-generation Porsche 911 Carrera! Just let that sink in for a second…It’s really no wonder the Mk7 Golf R was an instant hit. It was great value for money, built well and it went like a rocket ship. It was also arguably the last hot ‘analogue’ Golf to be produced. Remember, by the time the face-lifted Mk7.5 came along, there was a virtual cockpit and LED lighting added to mix.

To the delight of many diehard Hot Hatch fans, the Mk7 R was also still available in a three-door configuration. That being said, the family-friendly five-door version was actually far more popular.

The Mk7 Golf R appealed to many because it was frighteningly quick without really shouting about it. It was only really the R badges and quad tailpipes that gave the game away. This was quite the opposite to the GTI model – with it’s fancy bumpers, red calipers and lairy branding. You could call the R understated cool at its finest, so naturally it was hugely popular with the mature Hot Hatch fan. Those who still longed for that type of performance, but without the fuss. With fast cars being frowned upon these days, it is arguably the ultimate street sleeper.

What’s the appeal of the VW Golf R Mk7?

With some cracking lease deals at the time of its launch in 2014, its no wonder the Golf R was so popular. At one stage, you could actually get into a Mk7 R for a little as £200 a month! At a whisker under £30k, the ‘R’ was only marginally more expensive that a 230hp Golf GTI Performance. However, it offered so much more with 300hp and all-wheel-drive.

Thanks to the 2.0-litre EA888 motor and Haldex all-wheel-drive, there wasn’t much that could keep up on an enthusiastic B-road blast! With 300hp and 280lb/ft the engine was a peach, regardless of whether you opted for the 6-speed manual or twin-clutch DSG transmission. Even today, a Mk7 Golf R will hold its own against most of the modern Hot Hatch contenders. And that’s before you take into account how easy you can extract power from a Mk7. If you’re interesting in that, check out our Mk7 Golf R tuning guide.  

Many consider the Mk7 Golf R to be the definitive do-everything Hot Hatch of the time. However, if it wasn’t quite practical enough, then an Estate version arrived in 2015. The DSG-only ‘wagon’ soon earned the reputation of being the ultimate dog hauler!

VW Golf R Mk7 most common problems

• Excessive oil consumption – Issues with the car’s PCV could result in rear crank case seals to fail, but regular valve changes should stop this happening.
• Turbocharger failure – This was only really an issue with earlier cars. However, if a problem was going to arise, then chances are it will have already done so by the time you purchase one today!
• Haldex issues – This later DSG system was less prone to issues than earlier versions, however, regular servicing (every 40k) should ensure you don’t experience any harsh upshifts when cold.
• Worn cloth interiors – The majority of these cars came with light grey cloth interiors, which showed every mark and didn’t age well. We’d always suggest you try to find a leather-equipped car where possible.

Leather may come at a premium, but we’d always select it over the common grey cloth stock option

VW Golf R Mk7 Pros

• Staggering performance from that sweet four-pot motor, but you need to keep on top of servicing to ensure its reliability.
• This car’s understated cool means its the ultimate street sleeper, which won’t attract the wrong types of attention from either the police or car thieves.
• With prices at an all-time low, there’s never been a better time to buy. You will struggle to find these types of bang per buck with any other vehicle, especially not with German build quality.

Cons

• Some of these cars (okay, quite a lot of them) will have had a hard life – especially the lease cars. Do your homework before buying one and if it looks tired then chances are it probably will be.
• Manual cars are arguably more fun, but enthusiastic launches can mean clutches go regularly, so do try and test drive before you buy.
• Lower spec cars can be a little bit dull, so try to look for a car with optional 19” wheels and full leather at the very least.

Areas to look out for when buying a VW Golf R Mk7

Below, we’ve broken the car down into its key components. We’ll highlight what you need to know, as well as any potential issues you may find.

Engine

After dabbling with heavy multi-valve six-cylinder engines in the Mk4 and Mk5 ‘R’ Golfs, VW switched to a lighter, four-cylinder turbo unit in the Mk6 R. The Mk7 Golf R featured a similar version of the 2.0-litre (1,984cc) in the Gen 3 EA888 16v engine, but it had a timing chain rather than belt. The good thing about this, is that there’s no set lifespan for these chains and it’s common to get at least 100k-miles out of them. In fact, it’s actually the chain tensioner that is more likely to fail. If the chain does fall out of the adjustment window, then a check engine light should come on to warn you.

Producing 300hp at 5500-6200rpm and 280lb/ft at 1800-5500rpm, it’s safe to say it’s pretty easy to keep these engines on song. And despite the car’s blistering performance, it would still deliver pretty respectable fuel efficiency, too. While VW’s claim of nearly 40mpg was possibly a little optimistic, the 7R could easily deliver high 20s to low 30mpgs. That’s still not bad given you could achieve these figures while still driving the car quickly.

Issues

It is common for modern direct-injection engines to be susceptible to carbon build-up. VW’s use of port injection in the Gen3 EA888 was probably intended to help eradicate this, though. There were some things to watch out for, though. You will probably have heard horror stories about some of these cars using half a litre of oil every thousand miles or so. While some of these tales might be scaremongering, it’s always worth dipping the oil before a road test. Heavy use of oil could be linked with the car’s PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hoses and valves left unattended. While only a five minute job to swap, if left then this can result in the rear main crankcase seal failing. Always check the service history with these cars, as its vital all fluids have been regularly changed.      

Some early cars (pre-65-plate) did suffer turbocharger failures, but chances are that if they haven’t had issue by this stage, then they probably won’t. Obviously don’t hold us to that, though!

Transmission

The Mk7 Golf R was available with a six-speed manual gearbox as stock. There was the option to ‘upgrade’ to a six-speed twin-clutch DSG system (seven-speed from 2017 onwards), though. Quite which is best is really down to your own personal taste and driving style. While the DSG was quicker on paper, some claimed the manual was more involving and fun once you’d mastered it slightly narrow gate. Both weren’t without their downsides, though. Manuals could tend to eat clutches, especially on tuned cars or those that had been driven and launched enthusiastically. Likewise, DSG-equipped cars could soon develop harsh up-shifts from cold if not regularly serviced. While more expensive, the DSG option was also more popular, with allegedly two DSG-equipped cars sold for every manual.

Volkswagen’s Hadlex system is referred to as all-wheel-drive, however, predominately it only drives the front wheels until they lose traction. It’s only at this stage, that power is then also distributed to the rear wheels. While a pretty robust system, again, these need to be regularly serviced (every 30k or three years) to ensure a healthy lifespan. You can generally do this yourself in around half and hour using a bottle of G-060-1675-A2 oil.

It’s actually always worth checking the Hadlex system is working correctly, too, because they occasionally won’t be. It’s not always a faulty pump, either. Sometimes the pump can simply become disconnected or something as simple as a fuse in the control module can blow. Don’t always assume it’s worse case scenario until you’ve checked these areas first!

Chassis

The all-wheel-drive Golf R uses the same electrically-assisted progressive steering rack as the GTI. This is both accurate and light, even if not hugely quick or overflowing. If your car features VW’s Adaptive Chassis Control (or DDC – to save confusion with the Adaptive Cruise Control system), then you’ll be able to set damping, throttle mapping and steering weight via one of the three suspension modes – Comfort, Normal and Race. A standard-spec R will just offer Eco, Normal, Race and Individual modes. DDC will give you the best ride – as it constantly monitors and adjusts the ride to suit your own driving style and road conditions. However, its worth noting the DDC dampers can occasionally start to leak over time and are expensive to replace.

Wheels

While the Mk7 Golf R came on 18” alloys as standard, a 19” ‘Pretoria’ option was available which is a must in our mind. Not only do they give the car a more aggressive look, it also ensures you’ll get the most out of its amazing chassis. Just be warned, though, the lower profile 19” tyres does mean ride quality is slightly jeopardise and buckled or damaged wheels can also be common.

Due to the power and four-wheel-drive, naturally these cars do tend to get through tyres quite quickly and the 19” rubber isn’t exactly cheap, so it’s worth checking tread levels when you’re viewing a car. There might be room for negotiations on the price if it needs a set of boots.

Bodywork

As we’ve said, the Mk7’s body styling was extremely understated. If you want to get people’s attention then either opt for a GTI model instead… or a Honda Civic Type R! Build quality, as with most modern VWs, is pretty indestructible, although squeaky door rubbers are a common issue. This is nothing a bottle of seal lubricant can’t sort out, though.

Xenon headlights were standard equipment and all ‘R’ models. Not much else – other than the quad-tailpipes – let on that you were driving a top-of-the-range Golf model.

Interior

We’d always opt for full leather where possible. Light grey cloth interiors we both drab and easy to mark. Driver’s seats have been known to creak. Front windows can also misbehave when auto up/down is being operated. Generally, this can be resolved by simply holding the window closed for a couple of seconds in auto-up. Wait until you hear a slight click in the door and then release.

While slightly bland, the dashboard’s functionality is great and everything does feel extremely solid. The Mk7.5 got the new virtual cockpit, which some prefer, Many old-skool fans still prefer to earlier, analogue display, though. That’s the great thing about this car, there was quite a choice of spec’s to choose from.

Due to its all-wheel-drive system, the Golf R’s boot was 37 litres smaller than a two-wheel-drive car. Honestly, though, you’ll soon forgot about that after putting your foot down and throwing the car into a twisty set of bends. This car was very much built to be driven, which is the same ingredients that made the original Mk1 GTI so popular in the first place.

Buying the best Mk7 Golf R

When you’re on the lookout for a Mk7 Golf R, it’s easy to be dazzled by its blistering performance and sleek looks. But beneath the surface, there can be hidden issues that could cost you big. That’s where the Carly App and Carly code reader come in, offering peace of mind and ensuring you don’t get stung by hidden problems.

Carly’s OBD-II scanner is perfect for diving into the Golf R’s complex electronics. It can scan multiple control modules and ECUs to make sure the mileage checks out and detect any potential tampering. Modern cars like the Mk7 Golf store mileage across different systems, so even if the odometer looks legit, Carly can uncover if something’s been altered. Plus, with Carly’s free Car History Checker, you can dig up all the crucial details like previous damage, outstanding finance, or dodgy repairs, before you hand over any cash. It’s a game-changer when it comes to buying used performance cars.

To get the full lowdown on car fault codes, learn how to avoid mileage tampering, and see how Carly can help you unlock hidden car secrets, arm yourself with this essential tech before buying your next Golf R.

VW Golf R Mk7 model timeline

• 2013 – New Mk7 Golf R announced.
• 2014 – Car arrived in the UK in March 2014.
• 2015 – Mk7 Golf R Estate added to range in Summer 2015.
• 2016 – Production of Mk7 ends and Mk7.5 introduced.
• 2017 – Performance Pack added to range in November 2017.
• 2018 – Manual gearbox discontinued.
• 2020 – Production of Mk7.5 ends.

Face-lifted Mk7.5 arrived on UK roads in 2017. It featured new LED lighting and virtual cockpit

VW Golf R Mk7 Prices

• £7,000 – £10,000 – Early Cat S cars start as low as £7,000, and later 2016-17 cars with high-miles (over 100k) cost under £10,000
• £10,000 – £12,000 – Good condition Mk7s  with average mileage, or lower mileage Cat N and Cat S cars fall into this category. Modded gems can be found here too, as the market prefers standard examples.
• £12,000 – £15,000 – The lowest mileage early Mk7s and nice condition Mk7.5s with higher spec and in better condition are abundent in this price bracket.
• £15,000+ – The latest 2019/20 cars with highr miles start at £15,000. Pay £18,000 to £19,000 and you’ll get a really tidy example with below average miles and comprehenisive history. Low mileage last of the Mk7.5s can fetch up to £25,000 still.

Read our Mk7 Golf R tuning guide next!

The post VW Golf R Mk7 Buying Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Mazda RX-7 FD History

By the time the nineties had rolled around, Mazda’s successful RX-7 needed a bit of freshening up. Whereas the previous ‘FC’ was slightly more touring focused, the new FD looked radically different, and made to feel radically different too. Be sure to check out our ultimate guide to the Mazda RX-7 for information on the older generation cars.

The FD RX-7’s soft curves stood out amongst the rest of its angular, blocky JDM rivals. The car’s svelte appearance was matched by its underpinnings, which had been tweaked to offer a more sporting drive. Nicely weighted steering gave drivers the sort of feedback they needed to tackle corners with precision. Meanwhile, the engine had evolved into something suitably potent. This was achieved thanks to a complex twin turbo system, whereby the second snail only kicks in after 4000rpm.

The result was 236hp in the Euro-spec cars, though Japanese and American market FDs (many have since been imported) left the factory with north of 250. As the 13B-REW engine has 1.3-litre capacity, it was simple to tuck away behind the front axle for a 50:50 weight distribution. The motor’s packaging also gives the FD a low center of gravity, making it a genuinely compelling vehicle to drive.

However, not all FDs were born equal. After all, this car was in production for the best part of a decade. Cars produced between 1992-1995 are referred to as Series 6. Over in Japan, they could be had in six different variations; from performance-focused models like the Type RZ, to the Touring X which came with a four-speed auto box. Over here in Britain, things were kept nice and simple; just one option, which had the suspension from Mazda’s sportier home-market RX-7s.

Series 7 and 8 Updates

Series 7 arrived in 1996, but this was only really a minor facelift. The rear wing was redesigned, as were some elements of the interior. A revised ECU gave the car fractionally more power. Series 8 of 1998 was a more headline-grabbing evolution of the FD though. In this iteration, Type RB cars had their power upped to 260hp, while the top line examples boasted 276hp. This included the Type RS. This came equipped with upgraded Bilstein suspension, a longer fifth gear, and reduced curb weight.  The Type RZ, meanwhile, took things a step further. On top of the RS features, the RZ had a dynamic ABS system and came with 17-inch BBS alloys. Another 10kg was shaved off of it too.

The most sought-after FD RX-7 of them all, however, is the Spirit R. Changes made to these were actually relatively minor; upgraded brakes where perhaps the biggest draw, though an exclusive Titanium Grey was also on offer. Only 1500 of these flagships were ever made, which probably explains the hype around the Spirit R. Well, that, and its Gran Turismo fame.

In summary, the Mazda RX-7 FD was – and still is – a terrific driver’s car. You don’t need to have the ultimate trim level to experience it at its best. That said, whichever spec you go for, the RX-7 is a big investment. It requires a lot of TLC to keep healthy. So, before you make your rotary dreams a reality, have a quick read of this.

Mazda RX-7 FD most common problems

• Blown apex seals
• Improper oil maintenance
• Heat-damaged engine bay components
• Rough fifth gear
• Knackered suspension

What to look out for on the Mazda RX-7 FD

Below, we’ve broken down each key component of the car to help you better understand the RX-7 FD. We’ll look at potential issues to be aware of, as well as general information and servicing. And if you’re wondering why these cars are loved so much, check out my RX-7 Bathurst Type R review.

Engine

It’s a common cliché to question the reliability of rotary engines. The reality, however, is often far less scary than the online discourse would have you believe. Truth be told, if the 13B-REW is maintained well, it can easily live beyond 100,000 miles. If it isn’t looked after, though, you could be looking at a full rebuild at less than half that mileage. As such, it’s crucial that you buy from a seller who’s in the know about what it takes to run one..

By far the biggest thing you’ll want to check for in this regard is a solid service history. Rotary engines burn oil by design. That means they need their fluid levels topped up much more often than a regular piston engine. Ideally, you’d want to see evidence in writing that the car’s been given oil change every 3000-5000 miles. Also check for a new oil filter fitted on most of those occasions. It’s also worth noting that many owners will choose to fully flush the oil and replace it after a track day. Ask the seller if they’ve taken the car on track to see whether its servicing history matches up.

If it seems as though they’ve done well at keeping on top of the car’s servicing schedule, the next question to ask would be: “So, what type of oil do you use?”. Many engine oils these days are synthetic, however synthetics don’t burn, and that makes them incompatible with rotary engines. What you’ll end up with is a car that’s clogged up with deposits and debris. This will eventually lead to broken apex seals (more on that later!) and terminal engine damage. Instead, you’ll want to buy a car which has been exclusively serviced with mineral-based engine oil that’s high in zinc.

Rotary checks

Assuming nothing has put you off about the car so far, the next crucial thing to do would be to perform a compression test. You’ll want to be looking at readings which are close to – or slightly above – 100 psi (7.0 bar) with no more than 20 psi difference between each chamber. Measurements lower than 80 psi (6.0 bar) are indicative of an engine that’s on the way out. Often, the cause of low compression figures will be a worn apex seal, or side seal.

Aside from that, you’ll also want to cast your eyes over the vacuum lines connected to the twin turbo set-up. The engine bay gets notoriously hot in the Mazda RX-7 FD, original lines can perish in the conditions after time. If they feel stiff rather than rubbery, then they’ll need to be replaced.

Now here’s the fun bit – the test drive. Naturally, there’s a few things that you’ll want to be watching out for, the first of which is the idle. A healthy warm engine should idle around the 800rpm-mark, so any major variation upon that would suggest that something’s awry. Then, check what’s coming out the tailpipes. Steam upon start-up might suggest that the hot engine bay has caused the RX-7’s coolant seals to waste away. In fact, speaking of coolant, it’s important that the seller has replaced it every year. Old fluid can deteriorate the seals too. Coolant leaks aren’t unheard of, so have a look to see whether there’s any evidence dripping away underneath the car.

Transmission

With those checks all sorted, it’s time to hit the road. The clutch is pretty capable of handling the FD’s stock internals. It’s unlikely to cause you much concern if you’re looking at a largely standard car. However, one thing that can be a problem is the second turbo within the twin system. Sometimes these can fail, either due to heat, or lack of use from overly cautious drivers. To test whether everything’s in order, you’ll need to take the car into the higher end of its rev range. If it’s all as it should be, you’ll feel a small extra splurge of power when the second turbo spools at around 4500rpm.

As for the gearbox? Well, these are pretty robust so long as you’re dealing with relatively stock power levels. That said, the shift from fourth into fifth is known to be an area that suffers from synchromesh wear.

The final thing to say about the Mazda RX-7 FD’s powertrain is that most examples will be modified in some way. If done well, this can turn the FD into an entirely different beast, but ask yourself whether you trust the workmanship. If it whiffs of a bodge job, then there’s no shame in walking away.

Suspension

The good news is that if you’ve made it this far, the car you’re viewing doesn’t have too many more tests to pass. Generally speaking, the rest of the RX-7 FD beyond the powertrain tends to survive rather well. However, with a car this age, there’s always elements of its underpinnings that you need to be checking.

Let’s start with the suspension. By this point, it’s quite likely that the bushings and other perishable parts will be in need of attention, so have a look through the car’s history to see if this has ever been done. Has it been lowered? If so, make sure that the plastic wheel liners haven’t been removed. If they have, then you’re just asking for moisture to start wreaking havoc with the car’s wiring.

The seller’s choice of alloys can have an impact too. Unless you’re looking at a high-spec Japanese import, the FD is at its happiest when on a set of 16-inch rims. Anything more than that will not only create a harsher ride, but also begin to strain the stock suspension too. So, if there are 17s or 18s fitted to the car, you’d ideally want it to have upgraded suspension to cope. Keep an ear out for any knocking from the rear too.

Brakes

The standard brakes are generally deemed sufficient to cope with the stock iteration of the Mazda RX-7 FD but check to make sure that they aren’t worn. The hydraulic assisted steering, meanwhile, should still be in fine health despite its age.

Interior

The inside of the car is the best place to find out for sure whether you’re looking at a genuine UK market RX-7, or a JDM import. British cars have storage compartments in the back, whereas a Japanese car will have a bench of seats (unless of course, it’s a stripped-out track racer).

The actual materials used within the FD’s interior are fairly tough, but by now you should expect to see at least some signs of wear and tear on the key touchpoints within the cabin: steering wheel, gearstick, driver’s seat being the main ones. Occasionally the hinges for the door pockets can snap too, and they’re not an easy thing to replace.

Air conditioning came as standard on the Mazda RX-7 FD, so make sure it’s working if you plan on using the car in summer at all. Plus, depending on its age, you might notice a different look to the driver’s gauges. Series 6 cars have red lighting, whereas the Series 7 cars came with green. Something different entirely points to the gauges being of an aftermarket spec, which tends to mean that the car’s been tuned. So, if the owner’s been quiet about things on that front up to now, it’s probably worth quizzing them about it.

Exterior

Modifications are likely to be the first thing you notice about any Mazda RX-7 FD’s exterior – it feels as though most these days have been restyled, whether it be in the form of a revised aero package, or a full-on widebody kit. As is the case with any mod, just be sure that the work’s been done to a good standard.

All the rules about rust and old cars still absolutely apply here too. Check the wheel arches and sills as you would on any vehicle, and the chassis too. FD-specific weak points include the area underneath the brake lights, and also the rear wing. Decades of opening the boot by pulling the wing up can allow moisture to collect within its joins, or if the spoiler’s been deleted, make sure that the remaining holes have been filled to a professional standard.

Other than that, door handles – both outside and in – can be fragile, and it’s also worth keeping in mind that replacement body panels are quite scarce.

Mazda RX-7 FD Prices

Unfortunately, prices for collector cars are through the roof at the moment, and there’s no exception to the trend here. Series 6 cars that have exceeded 100,000 miles will still command somewhere around $25,000 / £20,000, while clean early models with less miles under the hood can fetch up to 35 grand. If, however, they’ve had desirable upgrades fitted, such as an RE Amemiya bodykit, you might be looking at a value closer to $/£40,000.

Looking at the worldwide RX-7 market as a whole though, prices can reach much greater heights than that, especially for well-kept Series 7 & 8 cars. Standard examples of these with 70,000 miles or less on the odometer will typically cost between $35,000-$65,000 / £40,000-£60,000 at this point, however the values attributed to the cream of the crop are downright bonkers. Immaculate high-end Series 8s can demand more than $/£70,000, while untouched Spirit Rs have climbed perilously close to the six-figure threshold. Sadly, buying a healthy FD isn’t going to be cheap anymore, whatever end of the market you’re in.

On average, in the US prices range from around $25,000 up to $60,000 depending on condition and modification status. In the UK, the Mazda RX-7 FD is probably a £30,000-£50,000 car these days. Mind you, when you see the sort of money that other Japanese icons are going for, that figure doesn’t seem quite so bad.

Tech Spec: Mazda RX-7 FD (Series 6)

• Engine: 1308cc wankel rotary
• Max Power: 236hp at 6500rpm
• Max Torque: 218lb ft at 5000rpm
• Transmission: five-speed manual
• Max speed: 155 mph
• 0-62mph: 5.4 seconds
• Weight: 1284kg
• Economy: 25.5 mpg

Love performance cars? Don’t forget that we host a number of car events throughout the year. Head over to our Fast Car Events page for more info on what’s coming up next. 

The post Mazda RX-7 FD Buyer’s Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Of all the niche and not-so-niche trends on the global tuning scene, there’s none more gangster than the VIP look. We’re talking massive luxury saloons, exquisite stance, show-stopping rims, eyewatering camber… although there is actually a bit more to it than that. In this article, we’ll point you in the direction of some of the best project cars to use as a canvas, but before that, let’s take a deeper dive into what the VIP scene actually is…

What is a VIP style car?

Known domestically as ‘bippu’ (Japanese for ‘very important person’), VIP-style originated with the Yakuza. The bosses of organized crime syndicates wanted big flashy cars, but knew that rival gangs and the police would be immediately suspicious to see them in European luxury cruisers. So, instead of rolling in top-flight Beemers, Mercs or Rollers, they set about upgrading JDM cars like the Toyota Crown and the Nissan Gloria. As time moved on and the scene evolved, today’s bippu cars are characterized by high-end wheels with loads of dish, very low ride height, huge negative camber (not always), aggressive skirts and lips, and very glossy paint – usually in a subtle black, white or silver.

VIP, then, is a style. This means that, while it’s logically and usually applied to big luxury cars, it’s a set of values that can be affixed to any car you like. There are oodles of Kei VIP builds on the scene, and VIP minivans – you name it, it’s out there. So if you fancy rocking the scary, moody VIP style but you’ve got a supermini parked on the drive (or you feel like giving your grandad’s Previa a bit of a makeover), there’s nothing stopping you. However, if you want to go traditional bippu – and let’s face it, why the hell wouldn’t you want to? – we’ve pulled together our 10 best VIP style project cars that you can you use as a base.

The Best VIP style project cars

Toyota Crown Athlete (S170)

Kicking off our list of the 10 best VIP style project cars is the Toyota Crown Athlete. The Crown’s been on the VIP scene since its inception. Hardly surprising really, as the first-generation Crown came out in 1955, so the model’s as deeply interwoven into Japanese culture as rice wine and clichés about karaoke.

This iconic model is now running in its fifteenth generation and is showing no signs of slowing down, and the one we reckon would best suit your needs for a VIP project is the eleventh-gen Crown S170, built from 1999-2003. Why this one in particular? Well, this is the one that Toyota decided to fit with the 1JZ-GTE engine – the turbocharged 2.5-litre straight-six with BEAMS tech. The one you want is the ‘Athlete V’ spec; you’ll have to put up with an automatic gearbox, but you’ll also have close to 300hp. Brilliantly, they came with optional factory air-ride, which can presumably be fiddled with to dump the thing on the ground. (Or just rip it out and slam it on coils!) Rear sunshades and rear-mounted climate and audio controls were optional, so you’re already halfway to being a Yakuza boss.

How much?

• $10,000-$20,000 (if you can find one)
• £8,000-£15,000

BMW 760Li (E66)

If there’s one thing mob bosses really love, it’s having absolutely buttloads of legroom. Being able to put your feet up at full stretch, possibly using a bound and gagged business rival as a bloodied footstool, is an essential part of the lifestyle as your henchmen whisk you under the city streetlights. So what you really need is something impressively long – say, a long-wheelbase 7 Series.

OK, European cars aren’t in-keeping with traditional bippu culture, but the world’s moved on. And when you clock the depreciation figures of these brutes, they’ll really start to make sense to you as a used purchase. Just take a look at the E66 (2001-08) 760Li. This mile-long goliath packs a creamy-smooth 6.0-litre V12, giving you 439bhp to outrun the law – and imagine what that’d sound like on open pipes! The optional soft-close doors offer proper Rolls-Royce levels of VIP swank too.

Prefer your BMW to have a more retro look? Take some inspiration from this E38 750iL.

How much?

• $10,000-$25,000
• £6,000-£15,000

Lexus GS300 / Toyota Aristo (S160)

Remember what Alan Partridge said about Lexus? “It’s the Japanese Mercedes.” Well, it can’t possibly get any more bippu-style than that, can it? Lexus is the very definition of what VIP cars are about. It may seem more logical for us to talk about the flagship LS models, but we reckon the GS is a better shout for a VIP project. The LS is pretty polarized between knackered older ones and very pricey newer ones, but in the middle ground you’ll find oodles of GS300s, and they’re by no means a poor relation.

The second-gen GS (1997-2005) was available with the 2JZ-GTE motor, so you get hilarious amounts of power to go with your plush, opulent seats and shiny walnut burr trim. Oh, and if you can track down the obscure-but-interesting GS400, you get a 4.0-litre V8 – or a 4.3-litre in the later GS430. These slab-sided brutes look outstanding sitting super-low over posh rims.

How much?

• $5,500-$15,000
• £2,000-£5,000

Nissan President (PGF50)

A very important part of Japanese tuning culture is to do things which outrageously and unashamedly take the mick. The bōsōzoku are a keen example of this, waving two fingers at every global scene and just doing whatever the hell they want. And look at all the street-racers strapping turbos to their Civics as if to say ‘Yeah, the VTEC’s great, but you haven’t tried hard enough, Honda’. And so it is with the Nissan President. Turning one of these into a VIP project is the same as running up to a government official and planting your boot in his plums.

The Nissan President was a car aimed at ministers, royals and other posh types, and the third-generation (PGF50) car is the one you want. Sold from 2001-2010, it had a 4.5-litre V8 and, if you opt for the four-seat rather than the five-seat version, you’ll find acres of fanciness: advanced Bose audio, a central armrest that controls all sorts of devices, and a ‘relaxing seat’ – which means that the front passenger seat can be slid all the way up to the dash, so the plutocrat behind can relaaaax. Aaaaaaaaaaaah.

How much? 

• $7,000-$15,000
• £5,500-£15,000

Mercedes-Benz S600

There are no cars in the world more advanced than the Mercedes-Benz S Class, that’s just a solid-gold fact, which is why it features in our list of the 10 best VIP style project cars. Sure, there are more expensive cars, and faster cars, and cleverer cars, but the S Class has always been the model that pioneers new technology before any other manufacturer in the world has a chance to catch up. Since 1972, the S Class has been revealing world-firsts from padded steering wheels to airbags, LED lights to Magic Body Control.

Much like the BMW 760Li, the S Class depreciates like a stone through a wet paper bag. Our hot tip is the W220 – the one sold from 1998-2005. It came with a baffling range of engines – fourteen different ones! – so you might as well just say ‘sod it’ and go for the S600, because that’s got a 5.5-litre twin-turbo V12, and life’s too short to be sensible. Get the rims, get the camber, get the pipes, and throw dollar bills at the peasants as you rumble by. Or, better yet, if you really do have the money to support the lifestyle, have a chat with the folks over at Brabus.

How much?

• $10,000-$25,000
• £7,000-£15,000

Nissan Y33 Platform

If you ask a bippu connoisseur what the ideal car would be for a VIP project, there’s a pretty decent chance that they’ll suggest one of the models based on Nissan’s Y33 platform. It’s a scene icon. But which one should you choose? Well, of the Cima, Cedric, and Gloria, we’d argue that the Gloria has the most to offer. The eleventh-gen model was available with the revered RB25DET engine (coupled with AWD and ATTESA E-TS, like a stealthy Skyline!); it could also be had with the VQ30DET if you fancied getting similar power from a V6 instead of a straight-six. It’s not clear why they did this, but let’s not question it.

Whichever Y33 model you choose, you’ll be getting the archetypal VIP shape: a three-box saloon that looks like those generic unbranded cars in early versions of Grand Theft Auto, which will give you maximum scene points and knowing nods from Japanese gangsters. Oh, and it’s also probably worth noting that the Nissan Cima pictured above was also readily sold in the United States as an Infiniti Q45. So, if you’re struggling to source a true JDM model, at least you know that there’s a domestic alternative to fall back on.

How much?

• $7,000-$15,000
• £5,500-£15,000

Volkswagen Phaeton

VIP isn’t just for high-rollers. The very essence of bling is to create the appearance of wealth. If it’s all an illusion, who cares? The impact is exactly the same. So there’s nothing wrong with mapping out your project budget and diverting almost all of it to the wheels and the suspension, and leaving next to nothing with which to buy the car. Will this work? Of course it will. Because the Volkswagen Phaeton exists, and the Phaeton is a very stupid car indeed.

Alright, no, it’s not the car that’s stupid. It’s Volkswagen. Because they thought people would be prepared to pay massive amounts of money for a luxury saloon, and the sort of people who’d be happy to pay those prices took one look at it and said “Er, no thanks, it looks like a big Passat”.

Their loss is your gain. You can get a Phaeton for under three grand now, which isn’t bad for a car based on the Bentley Continental floorpan which was designed under a brief to be driven all day at 186mph, in 50-degree heat, in total comfort. Budget gangsta? Hell yeah, we’ve got time for that.

How much?

• $8,000-$20,000
• £3,000-£15,000

Honda Accord / Acura TSX

Working with a tight budget, but still want to go authentic Japanese? In that case, the Honda Accord is a car that you should definitely consider. The Accord has been around for decades in all sorts of guises. You can buy them in sedan form, as station wagons (like the one pictured), or even as coupes – most of which are very affordable if you’re picking them up off the used market, and readily available thanks to being sold worldwide. Sure, in stock form, an Accord is hardly the ultimate definition of luxury, but they are spacious, and if you’ve got some extra budget kicking around, you could kit yours out with all kinds of interior mods.

If you’re unsure where to start with the Accord family tree, we’d suggest beginning with the seventh-generation CL range. Available with either a K20 or K24 i-VTEC engine, these things aren’t especially rapid out of the box but certainly have plenty of tuning potential. In the States, they’re badged as the Mk1 Acura TSX, and are only available with the 200hp K24. However, if you’re elsewhere on the planet, keep an eye out for the Accord Euro R – that thing’s packing a K20A under the hood!

Ultimately, if you’re looking for a base car which you can find easily, buy relatively cheaply, and still get plenty out of in the long-run, you can’t go wrong with one of these.

How much?

• $4,000-$15,000
• £2,000-£5,000

Words by Dan Bevis & James Bowers.

The post Best VIP Style Project Cars appeared first on Fast Car.

Hyundai’s brand image has undergone some significant changes in recent years. The company has extended its appeal beyond mere affordability to encompass performance and a new age of futuristic electric cars. As the little brother of the i30N, the i20N is an impressive supermini that sits alongside the likes of the Toyota GR Yaris and Ford Fiesta ST.

With only around 2200 i20Ns registered on the road, they’re far rarer than both of its rivals mentioned above. And as the last few stock and canceled orders sell, this number is expected to rise to just under 3000. As a result, with relatively few examples on the market, the i20N could present a good investment opportunity if that’s your thing. For the majority of us who just love cars, well its a whole lot of fun and one that’s not going to get you into serious problems with the law either.

Hyundai i20N most common problems

As you’d expect, there have been relatively few issues with the i20N so far. All cars will still be under warranty so most problems will be dealt with by Hyundai but there are a couple of areas to be aware of.

• The exhaust opening valve spring can be insufficient and rattle. An exhaust replacement would offer a temporary fix but an aftermarket spring is thought to be a better solution.
• Water and condensation around the front and rear lights have been flagged. The lenses can cloud and with weak headlights in the first place this isn’t a particularly helpful feature.
• Rev hang issue. This can be rectified by an ECM software update at a dealer. It seems to affect cars registered before November 2022, but not guaranteed.
• Poor paint finishes on some cars which in time could lead to rust.

Hyundai i20N buying guide

Below, we’ve explored all the different areas on the car, highlighting any early issues that you should be aware of, as well as general information about the car.

Engine

Powered by a 1.6-litre turbocharged four-cylinder engine, the i20N officially has 204hp and 203lb ft of torque. Unfortunately, Hyundai has said the i20N won’t meet the Euro 7 regulations set to come in from 2025, so its N models in Europe will be cut before then. That doesn’t necessarily mean there won’t be any more N models in the future but it’s more difficult to meet these regulations in smaller cars so this is likely to be the first and last generation of the i20N. But, if Hyundai’s concept cars are anything to go by, its next generation N cars will definitely up the game in the styling department.

On the performance side, 0-60mph happens in 6.2 seconds and it tops out at 143mph. It comes with eco, normal and sport modes as well as a custom mode and launch control. Rev matching is standard and you can change the exhaust setting too. For normal driving, expect to get between 37 to 43mpg.

There hasn’t been reports of any issues with the four-cylinder engine, although in typical hot hatch fashion, it does like to drink a decent amount of oil. As a result, keep an eye on oil levels, and ensure it’s been serviced and replaced as per Hyundai’s servicing requirements.

Transmission

A six-speed manual gearbox was the only transmission option for the i20N. Some owners have reported difficulty getting it into reverse and first gear or trouble with grinding between other gears. This has been flagged on cars that were bought brand new so a low mileage example might not be problem free. Investigating a transmission issue is a time consuming and costly process for a garage but as the cars are still under warranty, it’s worth taking it to a main dealer if this issue arises. It never hurts to check the oil levels or change the transmission oil so this could potentially be an easier remedy.

There’s also been reports of jerkiness at low speeds. This could be a symptom of driver style or an issue with the throttle response so as always, we suggest going for a test drive to experience several start stop scenarios and get used to driving the car.

It’s worth noting that owners on the N-cars forum have reported a rev hang problem. In short, when you press the clutch to change gear, the revs are hanging high in the rev range instead of dropping. While modern cars do have this engineered into help with emissions, the rev hang here is much longer. Thankfully, the issue can be resolved with an update and seems to only affect cars registered before November 2022. One thing to note here is that some owners on the N-cars forum reported that their dealerships were somewhat reluctant to acknowledge the software issue, however did the update in time.

If you’re looking at purchasing a used Hyundai i20N, be sure to check for the rev hang during your test drive. Similarly, ask the owner, or dealer, about the issue and whether it’s been updated or not.

Chassis

Unlike the i30N’s adaptive suspension the i20N has passive suspension, it also has a slightly lower ride height. Instead of an electronic diff as seen in the i30N, a mechanical limited-slip diff is used and overall a stiffer spring and chassis setup to create the desired handling characteristics. So, this does result in some three- and two-wheeled adventures if you push it hard enough around a track. On the road this means the ride can be a bit stiff but if you’re heading to the track you can live with a slightly firmer on-road experience.

Brakes

The i20N has red brake calipers as standard that are emblazoned with a white ‘N’, in case you forget which car you bought. At the front it gets 320mm discs and 262mm ones at the back. Nestled between the seats is a delightfully analogue handbrake. So, you’ll be pleased to know Hyundai hasn’t robbed you of the ability to do a handbrake turn. Afterall, performance and handbrake turns go hand in hand, who would be so cruel as to deny you that.

Maybe don’t test out the handbrake at speed on a test drive. But, do bear in mind how well the car comes to a stop and listen out for any grinding or crunching noises. Given the i20N is still fairly new, a car’s history shouldn’t show any brake changes unless it’s a particularly high mileage example. That being said, remember, the i20N is a fun hot hatch, and will likely have been driven that way, too. Make sure the brake fluid hasn’t boiled, and there are sufficient pad life left.

Interior

Compared to the standard i20, the N cabin is spruced up with a few splashes of color in the form of ‘N’ buttons on the steering wheel, a red ‘rev’ button below and a Performance Blue stripe on the gear shift. Extra equipment includes heated seats and steering wheel, parking sensors, reversing camera and wireless charging.

The infotainment screen has a built-in lap timer and GPS track mapping for track days on loaded circuits. Bose audio was an optional extra so if the best sound quality is a must, keep an eye out for cars with this. At the time this meant delivery times were delayed to add an extra two speakers and a subwoofer so cars with the Bose setup can be a little pricier as not many people wanted to wait.

The sporty seats add to the N aesthetic but typically suffer wear to the bolsters. Again, some of this can be dealt with under warranty, but long term this is an issue that’s likely to reoccur.

Owners have also reported that some cars have an issue with the cruise control speed adjusters dim the instrument cluster as well as increase or reduce the speed. Again, the fix is a software update from Hyundai, but it’s worth asking if this has been done or not.

Body

Even though the i20N was the smallest N division car, there was no three-door option. For the purists wanting a three-door hot hatch sorry to disappoint, but it might be an easier sell to the other half if it seems more practical with five doors.

The 18-inch alloy wheels were paired with Pirelli P Zero tires but they weren’t necessarily the favored tires with owners. Instead they were often replaced with Michelin Pilot Sports so if the car you’re looking at isn’t wearing Pirellis that might not be a bad thing.

Hyundai’s Performance Blue paint color that features heavily in its N division branding is the most common color to find up for sale. This is paired with a red line around the bottom of the car underlining the side skirts and both bumpers. For a more understated look, Dragon Red paintwork was the only color option to drop the red accents. Black roofs were an optional extra at £500 so some cars feature this contrasting look or the same color paint all over.

Apart from the obvious bodywork checks looking for scratches or dents, there were reports of poor paint jobs from the factory. Patchy paint coverage could result in rust (which a few owners have admitted to already!) but this is something Hyundai should deal with under warranty. Speak with the owner to establish if they’ve had any repairs made during the warranty period. The biggest problem area is the front apron, which is also susceptible to the most amount of damage from stone chips.

Hyundai i20N prices

Given production has ended and there’s some final stock left to sell, prices are still pretty high. The model also isn’t out of the five-year warranty period yet so used prices are strong. Once 2021 cars start to come out of their warranties, prices should hopefully come down some more.

£20,000 to £25,000: This is the target price point to get into a decent example. Most of the cars listed for sale will fall into this bracket and this opens up your buying power for different colors and lets you be more choosy about mileage.

£25,000 to £28,000: The majority of cars at this price will be brand new, or have few miles on them. As stock dwindles the upper limit will start to come down. A new car presents good value for the additional warranty years but some dealers are offering new cars under the £25k mark so look around to get the best deal.

If you’re thinking of buying an i20N, be sure to read our Hyundai i20N tuning guide to find out what you can do to unleash its potential.

Did you know that we host a number of performance car events across the year? Be sure to check out our Fast Car events page to find out what’s coming up next! 

The post Hyundai i20N Buying Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

To be quick on the ‘Ring, a car needs it all. The best suspension, the grippiest tires, serious engine power; it’s all got to be there. As such, you’ll only find top-tier performance cars on this shortlist.

There are a number of reasons why the Nürburgring is unusual as a racetrack. There’s the sheer length of it, of course, meaning that it’s entirely possible to experience four seasons of weather in a single lap. Then, there’s the staggering complexity, which requires years to master; true Ringmeisters know the minutiae of every curve, crest and camber, although you don’t pick up this knowledge overnight.

Can I Drive On The Nürburgring?

But what’s perhaps most noteworthy, given that it’s a circuit designed from the outset to be a formidable race venue, is that it’s arguably not best known for its racing. Sure, there’s a rich and vibrant calendar of events at the ’Ring, from touring car battles to the annual circus of the 24-hour race and beyond, but to the average person on the street, the ’Ring is a toll road. A fancy one that only goes one way, but it’s the touristenfahrten which really inspires people.

The fact that you can turn up in any car you like, pay a few Euros (well, more than a few these days…), and drive as fast as you’re physically able around an iconic and revered circuit, that’s what gets people going. The further fact that the track has a fearsome reputation as an almighty car-breaker in the wrong hands – as well as the myths, rumours and half-truths around how financially devastating it can be if you do get it wrong – means that people who are making an effort to restyle themselves as Ringmeisters enjoy a tangible halo of reverence. Because the mark of a true Nürburgring hero is the lap time. The numbers that signify just one hot jaunt around the track. And as we’re about to explore, these digits sit in some pretty esteemed company…

Fastest Nürburgring Car Lap Times

Honda Civic Type R FL5

Lap Time: 7:44:80 (2023)

In the rarefied company of the cars we’ll go on to talk about, perhaps seven minutes and forty-four seconds doesn’t sound all that mind-blowing. But this isn’t some jewel-like and highly-strung hypercar we’re looking at here, nor is it a full-blown race car. Nope, this is a Honda Civic, an everyday runabout that’s been engineered to be spacious enough for tip runs and family holidays, with baked-in reliability for road-tripping or nipping to Tesco’s. And when Honda unveiled the latest-generation Civic Type R, the FL5, and chucked it at the Eifel mountains, the results were astounding.

In fact, in the hands of Néstor Girolami, the FL5 instantly scooped the record for front-wheel-drive hot hatches, adding to a growing list of lap records it’s set at various other venues across the world. And remember: in order to hold this record, the car in question has to be essentially identical to one that you can stroll into a showroom and buy. Yes, they fitted it with Michelin Cup 2s, but your friendly Honda dealer will happily fit them to your Civic too if you ask nicely. And then you can proudly boast that you’re among the pantheon of Nürburgring record holders.

Porsche 911 Dakar

Lap Time: 7:39:40 (2023)

What makes this time so impressive is that not all of it took place on the track in the traditional sense. It’s the fastest lap that includes using all the grass!

We’ve all seen the fail compilation videos of people on the ’Ring skating the turf and ending up having a really bad time. We’ve all missed a corner on a video game lap and found ourselves in unsavable spins. But the really cool thing here is that the 911 Dakar is deliberately cutting the corners and off-roading at ludicrous speed. The concept of ‘track limits’ has gone entirely out of the window.

Driver Christian Gebhardt effortlessly transitions from tarmac to vegetation without breaking a sweat, to demonstrate just what an impressive piece of machinery the new 911 Dakar is. Putting in a hot lap of the Nürburgring is hard… but putting in a hot lap while purposefully getting it wrong and not crashing? Well, that’s pretty heroic.

Lamborghini Aventador SVJ

Lap time: 6:44.97 (2018)

It’s extremely pleasing to have a Lamborghini in this list. Naturally the company name has been synonymous with the cult of the supercar ever since the Miura broke cover, but there have always been detractors who postulated that vast swells of horsepower and Italianate theatrics were no substitute for poise and agility. Well, the Aventador SVJ has both.

With 760bhp ripping the very fabric of space-time from its shrieking nat-asp V12, intelligent aero that increases downforce by 40% over the stock Aventador SV, and the unflappable factory helmsman Marco Mapelli at the controls, the big Lambo smashed out a lap time of 6:44 back in 2018. Sure, it’s a second and a bit behind the Black Series Merc, and there was a time when such a disparity might’ve raised an eyebrow, but you can’t argue with results, and the two cars are very different entities. If you want drama, you want a Lambo – and this is just about the most dramatic there is.

Mercedes-AMG GT Black Series

Lap time: 6:43.616 (2020)

How do you define ‘production car’? Technically, the Mercedes-AMG One holds the record, but you can’t exactly walk into your local dealer and find one. Similarly, the official second place slot is held by the Porsche 911 GT2 RS, but that one was fitted with the optional Manthey Racing upgrades, so does that count? It’s open to interpretation really, but there’s no denying that the third-place car is a winner for many: the Mercedes-AMG GT Black Series.

An astonishing motor car with a 720bhp flat-plane-cranked twin-turbo V8 that delivers its peak power at a howling 7,200rpm; it’s got carbon everything and oodles of downforce, and demolished the ’Ring in a staggering 6:43:616 – a near-enough identical time to the McLaren P1 XP1 LM, with the ability to carry a full suite of luggage if need be. Absolutely bonkers.

McLaren P1 XP1 LM Prototype

Lap time: 6:43.22 (2017)

The McLaren P1 is a terrifying thing in its own right, and the XP1 LM prototype amped things up to a whole other level. It’s all thanks to the adrenaline junkies at Lanzante Motorsport, who – after the production run of the P1 was complete – commissioned the Bespoke division of McLaren Special Operations to build another half-dozen P1 GTRs so that Lanzante could convert them into road-legal LM variants. The sixth car of this extra run became the XP1 LM prototype, retained as a development and test car and sporting a rolling list of mods and upgrades.

In 2016, fitted with massive aero, Lexan windows, lightweight charge-coolers and Inconel/titanium exhausts (as well as having its air jack system deleted and various other weight reductions), it recorded the fastest ever time for a road car up the hill at the Goodwood Festival of Speed, with Kenny Bräck driving. The following year it went to the Nürburgring, again with Bräck, and knocked a full four seconds off the regular P1 GTR’s time. That was on road-legal tires too, and the XP1 LM drove back to the UK on those same tires afterwards. Indeed, the only thing that made it not road-legal on its ’Ring lap was that they’d removed the front number plate!

Mercedes-AMG One

Lap time: 6:35.183 (2022)

There was a bit of a build-up to this one. When Mercedes-Benz announced that they were going to be making a road-going hypercar with an actual Formula One engine in it, everyone got very excited. The 2017 concept had us all frothing. But then, as it turned out, building a reliable road car with an F1 motor is actually quite hard, because they’re not designed to do things like pop to the shops or idle in a traffic jam. But they eventually made it work, and when the Mercedes-AMG One finally rolled up to the Nordschleife in 2022, expectations were high.

And it didn’t disappoint. DTM driver Maro Engel was the man at the helm, and the blistering pace he set chipped a full eight seconds off the production car lap record – and it’s worth remembering that the conditions were far from ideal, and he had to manage the hybrid system throughout the lap to ensure he didn’t run out of puff on the final straight. So we can take 6:35 as the One’s starting point, with more to come…

Mercedes-AMG One, again…

We said there was more to come, and well we were right. Although, it didn’t take a genius to work out that given Maro Engel had to manage the hybrid system on the first record run, then the next attempt would be different. Not only that, but during the run in 2022, the conditions weren’t optimal for the run, with some sections of the track still damp. Well, Mercedes were back at the Nurburgring in September 2024 to set it’s new time of 6:29.090. That makes it a whole 6 seconds faster than the previous record.

Porsche 956

Lap time: 6:11.13 (1983)

This is the one. The legend, the hero, the timeless classic. It may no longer stand as the fastest lap of the Nürburgring, but it’s the lap that will always be whispered about in reverential tones by seasoned racers who’ve seen a few things.

Firmly gripping the wheel of his Porsche 956, 25-year-old Stefan Bellof headed out for a quali lap for the Nürburgring 1000km in May 1983, little suspecting that the next six minutes and eleven seconds would turn him into a household name for petrolheads for decades onward. And a subsequent layout change helped to seal the deal, whereby Le Mans prototypes would stop using the Nordschleife competitively and the GP circuit would be integrated into the lap, meaning that Bellof’s record would stand for a staggering thirty-five years. It’s just a shame no-one thought to video the whole thing.

Volkswagen ID.R

Lap Time: 6:05.336 (2019)

The Green Hell hummed to the rhythm of volts as a new dawn of performance unveiled itself in 2019. Volkswagen’s imposing ID.R looked like some manner of slippery amphibian, fresh from the rainforests to come and show these fossil fuel-burning entities another way.

And the hyperintelligent VW really did put on a show. Making a sound reminiscent of your laptop’s cooling fan going into overdrive, the car boasted a 670bhp motor and 44kWh battery pack pinched from the company’s Formula E race car, and it ripped around the Nürburgring at a rate quicker than most onlookers’ eyes were able to keep pace with. Averaging 128mph around the undulating circuit, its honed aero setup and fearless pilot (Romain Dumas) ensured a lap time that would go down in the history books. It certainly gave the old guard something think about.

Porsche 919 Hybrid Evo

Lap time: 5:19.546 (2018)

This, frankly, is an eye-watering number. Watching the footage, it looks as if it’s playing back on fast-forward, it really is hard to believe it’s real. How can a machine cheat physics with such alacrity, how can a driver react so rapidly and so effectively? The 919’s 5:19 lap will undoubtedly be remembered by future generations alongside the pyramids and the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, remarkable feats of creativity and endeavor by humanity that can surely never be repeated.

This all happened because Porsche, keen to mark its 70^th anniversary, wanted to do something with a bit of impact, and modified their Le Mans-winning 919 Hybrid with the aim of taking lap records at circuits across Europe. This it achieved, and of course the ’Ring was always going to be the jewel in the crown. With Timo Bernhard behind the wheel, the Nürburgring lap record wasn’t just surpassed, but absolutely smashed to pieces, the Porsche beating the existing record by nearly a minute. Which is just insane.
With 1,144bhp propelling 850kg, it was always going to be quick. And with Bernhard’s healthy disdain for the concept of fear, it morphed into something iconic.

You, in a variety of cars

Lap time: sub-5:00:00 (whenever you like)

Lapping the Nordschleife in real life is scary. There’s so much potential for peril, so many opportunities to make an absolute pig’s ear of it and entomb yourself in a tangle of folded metal.

But sitting on your sofa is a lot less daunting, isn’t it? If you’re driving the track virtually, it’s rather less life-changing if you misjudge an apex or clip a bit of wet grass and spang your priceless race car into the Armco at double-ton velocity. This is where we’re all late-night heroes. We’ve all been there. It’s 1am, everyone’s gone to bed, you’re sitting there with a potent drink on one side and a bowl of salty snacks on the other, psyching yourself up for one last banzai lap of the Green Hell. You grab the controller and pick the fastest car in your garage. rit your teeth. You won’t be blinking for the next five minutes. All or nothing, hell for leather, diving for the sort of angles that even Senna would have thought twice about.

Sure, a Gran Turismo lap isn’t real. But in the dead of night, with no-one around and no jeopardy of potential damage bills to concern you, it’s more than real enough.

The post Fastest Nürburgring Car Lap Times appeared first on Fast Car.

For those looking to harness some more performance from their engine, superchargers can be a hugely beneficial tool. Whether bolted onto a big capacity V8 motor, or assisting a small 2.0-liter engine, the benefits to both can result in hundreds of extra horsepower. But how do they work? What do you need to know before buying one? And what else should you upgrade before buying one to avoid taking your engine to an early grave? Read on to find out.

What is a supercharger and what does it do?

To improve the performance of an engine, it needs more air and fuel. A supercharger is an air compressor that supplies this extra air at more than atmospheric pressure. A supercharger needs power to work. Normally, the term supercharger describes a unit that is mechanically driven from the crank. However, if a turbine provides power, the supercharger is known as a turbocharger.

10 best affordable supercharged cars

Are all superchargers the same?

There are two main types of superchargers: Centrifugal and Positive Displacement. Centrifugal superchargers deliver increased pressure with increased engine speed. They work by accelerating the inlet air by giving it a very high speed from a compressor wheel known as an impeller. This speed energy converts to pressure when the air slows down in the diffusor inside the compressor housing. Positive Displacement blowers deliver a certain amount of air per-engine revolution, independent of speed.

There are three major types of Positive Displacement supercharger; Roots, Twin-Screw and Scroll – also known as G-Lader.

What are superchargers made of?

The Centrifugal Supercharger typically has an internal ratio step-up gear that gives the impeller a much higher speed than the input drive. In general, the efficiency of the compression increases with higher impeller speeds. Step-up gearboxes based on gear sprockets or belts have limitations in speed and hence efficiency. Whereas traction drives, such as the Rotrex, can reach extreme speeds far above gear and belt-based boxes. Positive Displacement superchargers typically have two internal counter rotating rotors. The synchronization between them makes relies on a very small clearance, which makes them sensitive to debris and heat expansion.

Why is a supercharger a good route to gain power?

There are several ways to improve engine power. In short, it’s all about moving greater volumes of air in and out of the engine.

The most obvious way is to increase engine capacity, but with focus on emissions and engine size, this is not beneficial.

Increasing engine speed also dictates expensive and complicated cam timing to avoid unwanted emissions. Colder intake air and higher volumetric efficiency increase power but with limited effect. Boosting, therefore, is the best way to improve power when emissions and power are key. No other alternative gives so much power for the money. When boosting is used, the performance limit is based on the engine internals with more than 100% gains often seen when the engine is properly prepared.

What is the difference between a supercharger and a turbo?

The main difference between a supercharger and a turbo is that a supercharger is mechanical driven. A turbocharger is driven by the exhaust energy. This could indicate that the turbo operates for free, whereas the supercharger steals energy from the crank. However, this is not the full story.

The main part of the exhaust energy is the high pressure in the exhaust ports that creates a pressure difference over the turbine wheel of the turbocharger. The backpressure in the downpipe dramatically reduces the Mean Effective Pressure on the pistons. This, combined with the limitation in efficiency of the turbine, reduces torque.

The reduction is in the same order as the power needed to drive the mechanical supercharger. Also, because the turbocharger traps hot residual exhaust gas in the combustion chamber, the temperature of the fresh air fuel mix increases. Therefore, the mixture in the turbo engine must be richer and the ignition timing lower. Both reduce fuel economy and performance. Several comparisons between turbochargers and efficient superchargers show almost identical performance and consumption results. With regards to emissions, the supercharger has advantages due to freedom in design of the exhaust system and less heat inertia.

How important is it to get the right type of supercharger for your application?

Getting the right type and size of supercharger is very important as each has different attributes. If you require constant and high-end torque, the centrifugal type is ideal. It features a very smooth power increase and low stress on the transmission. Alternatively, in a heavy car with a small engine, you need more torque at low engine rpm. As a result, a Positive Displacement is the preferred choice.

Efficiency during compression of the air is also very important because more power can go to the crank. Plus, you can get away with a smaller intercooler if the efficiency is high. Low temperature of the inlet air is also important for engine reliability and performance. In general, the centrifugal supercharger has better efficiency than all other types of pump.

What are the main limitations or downsides of superchargers?

The physical size of the blower and additional items such as intercoolers and pipework are always an issue. This is because installation into increasingly cramped engine compartments makes fitment more difficult. Also, noise from the air compression is very dominant in a Positive Displacement supercharger. However, the Centrifugal blower is quiet, with Rotrex being the only unit that is essentially silent even at idle.

What other mods should you consider when installing a supercharger?

If the boost pressure from the installed kit exceeds 5 psi, you’ll need an intercooler to reduce inlet air temperature.

Depending on the power gain, the you should modify the exhaust system to reduce backpressure. Normally, the standard cams are fine for lower boost, but you can also source performance cams if you’re chasing more power.

As with any power upgrades, careful remapping and precise ignition and fueling is a must for a successful installation. Finally, depending on power increase, strengthened engine internals may also be needed and compression lowered according to needs.

Why don’t more car manufacturers use supercharger technology?

It’s no secret that the turbo is the dominant boosting device between car manufacturers. The turbocharger manufacturers can support the OEM with implementation and low prices.

The very positive feedback from aftermarket supercharged cars can improve the supercharger market share. When car manufacturers realize it’s possible to get high efficiency, low noise at a good price, more cars will be supplied with superchargers. New stricter emissions rules will also push in that direction because the catalyst will have a shorter heat-up time. Hybrid solutions with 48V power supply will add torque at low engine rpm and open for a solution with an efficient centrifugal compressor like the Rotrex. The high-volume car industry is very conservative towards new technology because of the economic risk, so the implementation will take time.

Other than ensuring you get the right one for your application, what are the most important things to look out for when buying a supercharger?

When buying a supercharger, it’s very important that reliability and factory back-up is good. If the supercharger is sold to the OE market the quality, reliability and back-up is seriously controlled by the manufacturer and you can be sure that this will not cause problems.

Many supercharger manufacturers sell their products to the motorsport market. This market takes the units to the extreme and if the chargers can handle this treatment, they are probably good enough for the road.

The supercharger is the most expensive part of the kit so the unit price will heavily influence the kit price. If the installation kit is simple, however, because the supercharger is easy to install, a higher unit price is acceptable.

Did you know that we host a number of high performance car events across the year at some of the best circuits and venues in the UK? 

The post Superchargers Guide: How They Work & Which To Buy appeared first on Fast Car.

The W204 was the third generation of the popular C-Class model line. This compact-executive had been a market stalwart since 1993, and the advent of the W204 in 2007 took the established formula and moved it onward technologically and stylistically. It was a case of evolution rather than revolution, as the market – and established Mercedes-Benz consumers in particular – demanded something very specific: a modern and forward-thinking iteration of what came previously. A continuation of C-Class values, with an appropriate contemporary flavor.

There are three codes to consider here: W204 denotes the saloon model, C204 is the two-door coupé, and S204 is the estate and while there were numerous engine options available, the one that’s particularly exciting us right now is the C63 AMG.

Arriving on the scene in mid-2008, this range-topping goliath came equipped with a naturally aspirated 6.2-litre V8, good for 457hp and 442lb ft. This was enough to launch the four-door saloon and two-door coupé variants toward the horizon with improbable rapidity; 0-62mph was dispatched in an eye-watering 4.5-seconds. And, rather brilliantly, an estate version was also available, for people who really needed to get their hedge clippings to the tip in a hurry; the extra mass and different aero behavior only added 0.1s to the 62mph dash. Incredible machines indeed. The top speed is 155mph for all C63s, but you can always remove the limiter…

Performance Pack

The lunacy didn’t stop with just the launch models either. Before long Mercedes-Benz keenly announced some spicy upgrades; the Performance Pack option left the drivetrain untouched but beefed up everything connected to it, comprising bigger brakes, a limited-slip differential, stiffer suspension and a carbon fiber boot spoiler, while Stuttgart also raised the speed limiter to 174mph. The next step up from this was the Performance Pack Plus (PPP), which did all of the above as well as cranking peak power up to 487hp. Interestingly, the PPP didn’t include the limited-slip diff and it was made a cost-option – so it is possible, if unlikely, to find PPP-equipped cars that don’t have the LSD. Always worth checking through the paperwork!

Special Editions

There subsequently came a few special editions too – the DR520, the Black Series, and the Edition 507. The DR520 was a UK-only variant that cost a full £9995 more than the regular C63 AMG; for the substantial extra outlay, buyers got 520hp (hence the name) and a speed limiter further raised to 187mph – only 20 of these cars were built, so they’re very much sought-after today.

The Black Series arrived in 2011 and was a seriously hardcore offering. It borrowed some choice engine componentry from the bigger-brother SLS supercar, increasing power to 517hp, and this was allied to aggressively wider arches, and the option of the AMG Track Pack which offered a transmission cooling system and soft-compound tires as well as the AMG Aerodynamics Pack. Finally came the Edition 507, which was a kind of greatest-hits of the formula; it had a 507hp engine, bigger front brakes, and the Black Series bonnet.

A facelift across the range in 2011 brought in a new front bumper with reshaped grilles and a restyled front apron. These later cars also had daylight-running lights and clear headlamps, with Performance Pack-equipped cars getting a carbon fiber spoiler.

Mercedes C63 AMG W204 Most Common Issues

Head Gasket

The engine is this car’s party piece, and the 6208cc M156 V8 is an absolute monster of a thing – brutal power, one of the all-time great exhaust notes, and superb reliability if you look after it properly. However, it isn’t infallible, and there are a few things to note: firstly, there’s a potential issue with the cylinder head bolts on cars built between 2008-11 – in some cases they can break, which in turn causes the head gasket to fail and wrecks the engine.

The first warning the driver gets is a ‘low coolant’ light, followed by a misfire, by which time it could already be game over for the engine. This is by no means common, but it’s worth checking the history very carefully for evidence of remedial work – or even full engine replacement. Thankfully it’s an issue easy to protect against, replacing the bolts with head studs as fitted to later engines, though it’s not a cheap job – it’s possible to replace each bolt individually but, if they were weakened enough to allow the heads to lift, the work will be a lot more involved.

Cam Lobes

Another issue to be aware of is that the cam lobes can be prone to premature wear; indeed, many specialists will suggest that replacing the camshafts should be a fairly regular maintenance task as failures are most common around the 100k-mile mark. Wear is usually worst on the intake cams, and if left to their own devices they’ll eventually chew through the hydraulic lifters, with troubling consequences. Frequent oil changes are also, of course, very highly recommended.

Intake Manifold

The magnesium intake manifold can also be a potential trouble spot, as the center plate mounting the two throttle bodies can deteriorate which leads to a rough idle. The crankcase breather valve can fail in two different ways; either the internal diaphragm deteriorates, or the connecting hose becomes heat-damaged and cracks – heavy smoke from the exhaust and/or a P0170 fault code will be the signs here, and it’s not an overly tricky thing to replace.

If the engine has a rough idle, it’s most likely a leaking inlet manifold that’s to blame, although it’s also worth checking if the car has an ECU remap as this can also display similar symptoms. It’s worth checking the condition of the drive belt and idler pulleys whenever you change the oil, because they’re plastic and, under stress, can fail. And finally, look out for oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets and/or camshaft solenoid cover gaskets – these will need addressing immediately as any escaping oil can seriously damage the nearby ancillaries.

Transmission

It’s noteworthy that the 204 C63 had two different transmissions depending on which year you’re looking at; 2008-11 cars had the AMG Speedshift Plus 7G-Tronic seven-speed auto ‘box, a conventional torque converter with Comfort, Sport and Manual modes. Facelift cars (2011-15) had the AMG Speedshift MCT transmission with an automatic lock-up clutch and extra S+ automatic mode – this latter setup shifts faster, but is also prone to overheating under hard use.

Additional Problem Areas On The Mercedes C63 AMG

On the move, if you feel a wheel wobble at speed it’ll probably be because the steering rack bolts need tightening. In terms of bodywork, naturally, you should look for even and uniform panel gaps or any evidence of impact damage – after all, these are cars whose owners drive them hard.

There are no common issues with corrosion reported, and the W204s are very well made; indeed, the only common complaint with the exterior is that the paint is soft which means the nose is particularly vulnerable to stone chips.

Inside, you’ll probably find that the driver’s seat bolster shows signs of wear; they all do that, but it’s not an expensive thing to fix. Electric seat adjustment can cause issues so make sure that’s all working as it should. Have a good look through the options too – lots of cost-option extras were available, so check to see if the car you’re looking at has the desirable reversing camera, DAB radio, COMAND Media, and Luxury Climate Control.

Which Mercedes C63 AMG to buy

With surprising diversity in the range, it’s tough to pick a favorite. While we’re looking at fundamentally the same model in each instance, every flavor of C63 AMG has its own distinct appeal. If you want to have fun on track, the Black Series coupé is what you’re after. If you want something that’s a little spicier and more special than stock, the Edition 507 is the one to have at the top of your shopping list. Fancy getting the kids’ adrenaline pumping on the school run? That’ll be the four-door saloon, the most popular body style.

But for us, the prime choice has to be the C63 AMG estate. It’s just such a remarkable idea, putting all of this power and ability into a practical wagon. It’d provide hedonistic thrills on an everyday basis, and never feel like a compromise, making it our favorite.

What to pay for a Mercedes C63 AMG W204

Compared to the more mainstream C-class, the Mercedes C63 AMG W204 is in another realm when it comes to performance – although depreciation has hit them fairly hard and they’re extremely good value today. Prices start around £14,000/$15,000 for a high-miler saloon, rising to £18,000/$20,000 and beyond for cars with 85,000 miles or less.

Decent coupés start a little below the 20k mark, and shouldn’t rise beyond £30,000/$35,000 for examples with reasonably low mileage. Estates are a little rarer on the used market but you can find them for similar prices compared to the coupe. Near-pristine examples of each of these three variants can creep into the 40-50k region, but you’d have to be a hardcore collector to opt for one of those.

You can find Edition 507s within the region of £35-45,000/$40-60,000. Black Series cars are more sought-after by collectors, with prices starting above £/$80k. DR520s are increasingly rare, but if you can find one, expect to pay a price somewhere in between that of the 507 and Black Series.

Liberty Walk Supercharged C63 AMG

How To Tune a Mercedes C63 AMG

Engine Mods

Remaps are an easy route to power with the C63; that brawny V8 has plenty more to give, and a simple plug-in remap will add an extra 40hp to a stock car, or 60hp to one with downpipes and secondary de-cats. High-flow exhaust manifolds aren’t cheap but can give good gains throughout the rev range as well as giving you even more of V8 noise to enjoy, making them well worth a look.

Forced Induction

If all of that epic and thunderous horsepower still isn’t scratching the itch, it’s interesting to note that this engine is very receptive to supercharging and there are a few options available. ESS offers a kit using a Whipple twin-screw supercharger kit complete with intercooler, injectors and everything else you need ($9995/£8000). ESS states that it will add 180hp to standard C63s and 150hp to Performance Pack Plus-equipped models.

Weistec also offers a twin-screw supercharger kit available in three different flavors – for $11,999 you can buy either the Stage 1 186hp version (legal in all US states) or the 221hp version, which requires a less restrictive aftermarket exhaust. Meanwhile, the Stage 3 kit costs $15,599 and offers 289hp for those who are really committed to power and happy to carry out the numerous supporting mods required.

Transmission

If you have a later model with the AMG Speedshift MCT transmission, potential cooling issues can be remedied by fitting a Black Series front bumper along with the Black Series transmission cooling setup; it’s an involved and expensive process, but it’ll pay dividends if you’re planning to drive the car hard on the track.

LSD

Finally, one thing that almost all C63 owners sing the praises of is the optional limited-slip diff – either because they have it and they love it, or they don’t have it and they want one. If your C63 doesn’t have an LSD, Quaife offers a superb upgrade – these are around $1500/£1000 to buy and a must-have upgrade.

Mercedes C63 AMG W204 verdict

The W204 range enjoyed such diversity that it really does offer something for most buyers, whatever their requirements may be. What’s key to remember is that, while there are a few potential pitfalls and known issues, these are generally uncommon and well-known to specialists, so this isn’t a car that you need to approach with caution. Indeed, it’s one you should embrace, for its high-end finish and attractive levels of equipment as much as its ludicrous performance potential.

A crisply designed and handsome model, the W204 represents a high watermark in Mercedes-Benz history, and the C63 AMG will most assuredly go down in history as one of the truly great performance cars of the era. The special editions make ideal additions to high-end collections, but it’s the ‘everyday’ C63s (if you can call them such a thing) that represent the real sweet spot: for as little as £/$15-20,000, you could have the potential to embarrass many modern sports cars, and you’ve got room to bring the family along for the ride. What more could you want from a car?

Love cars? Did you know that we host a number of high performance events throughout the year at some of the best circuits and venues in the UK? Head over to our Fast Car Events page for more information on what show is coming up next.

The post Mercedes C63 AMG W204 Buying & Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

It’s safe to say that in the car tuning scene a lot of engines are more famous than the cars. In fact, some cars are only famous thanks to their engines. But the reason for this is simple, the engines have huge tuning potential. In all honesty, most of the engines aren’t amazing performers when standard. But it’s the highly tuned ones that bring the fame. This 10 best Japanese engines to tune feature is all about these motors, and how to realize their potential…

Nissan RB Series Engines

You knew this one would appear on our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune, didn’t you? The engine that gave the Nissan Skyline worldwide fame, the RB is a turbo straight six, fitted to R32, R33 and R34 Skylines, as well as a few more unusual vehicles. The three main turbo versions, the RB20DET, the RB25DET, and the RB26DETT have long been known as tuners dreams.

The RB20 is the smallest capacity and lowest power engine of the bunch. It features just two-liters and only 210bhp. But that doesn’t mean it’s the poor relation – far from it. Put a decent size turbo on it and things really come alive. 450bhp and 8,000rpm is possible on standard internals. On the flip side, a fully built engine could achieve 600bhp-plus. And they love to rev too; a big power RB20 revving its nuts off is an incredible sounding engine.

The RB25 is the most common of the RB lumps. It’s found in countless R33 GTSTs and R34 GTTs. As it’s a 2.5-litre turbo that makes an easy 300bhp with really minor tweaks, it’s incredibly popular. It’ll even make a pretty safe 500bhp with a big turbo conversion on standard internals. Although some say the RB25 engine is almost as capable as the RB26 when fully built for mega power, most people tend to stick around the 500bhp mark. This level is achievable relatively cheaply. If done right it has tons of torque and a great powerband.

RB26DETT engine

The RB26DETT is the daddy of the RB engines. It’s the engine found only in R32-R34 GT-Rs. From the offset it was designed to win races. As the engine was designed for Group A Touring Car racing in the late ’80s, most of the standard parts, especially the head, crank, rods, manifolds and intercooler had to be awesome. This was because the race rules meant they weren’t allowed to be changed.

Because of this, these parts are rarely changed below about 650bhp. In fact, some people have even hit the magic 1,000bhp figure on engines running standard internals. While half the world likes to claim their mate has a 1,000bhp Skyline, in reality, that’s an expensive number to hit. But if you can afford it, that’s nowhere near the limit. What is the limit? Who knows.

Check out out guide on how to tune the Nissan RB26DETT engine.

RB30ET

Unusually though, there is another turbo RB, the RB30ET. This was an Aussie-only single cam turbo engine not even found in a Nissan, but in a Holden four-door saloon. Despite having 12 fewer valves and one fewer cam than the other versions, and pushing out less power than even the RB20DET as standard, with a bit of tuning it was soon realized even 1,000bhp was possible. That power also came with massive torque thanks to having the three-liter engine.

The current favored trick in RB tuning is using the RB26 cylinder head with the RB30 block, along with a huge turbo. This gives the huge power RB26s are capable of, but with big RB30 torque. Best of all, for this the RB30 block doesn’t need to come from a turbo version. Non-turbo RB30s can be found in all kinds of places, even old Nissan Patrol 4x4s in your local free ads.

Toyota 1JZ & 2JZ GTE

While the Skyline RB engine was the first turbo straight-six to attract worldwide tuning fame, it’s certainly the Toyota JZ engine that’s the current favorite of tuning fans the world over. While neither turbocharged versions of the JZ are exactly slow from the factory, it’s once you relegate the standard tiny twin turbos to the dustbin and whack on a big single turbo that things really come alive. This is why it features on our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

2JZ-GTE

The three-liter 2JZ-GTE has gained a lot of its legendary tuning status due to the well-known fact it can produce upwards of 1000bhp on completely standard engine internals. But it gets better than that. Even at the 750bhp mark, a standard 2JZ in good condition with a well specced turbo set-up, will spool up fast and give massive torque. Most importantly though, it will be reliable too.

As full-on race engines, 1,000bhp is only the halfway point for a 2JZ.  Upwards of 2,000bhp is deemed capable, and even with far less than 2,000bhp, the results can be incredible. A 2JZ Supra has hit 246mph in the standing mile, over 40mph faster than a Bugatti Veyron over the same distance.

1JZ-GTE

While people going for maximum power regardless of budget always go for the 2J, it’s the 1JZ that people go for when looking for the maximum bang for their buck. Hugely reliable even under extreme abuse, they’re able to make 500bhp-plus and similar torque on standard engine internals with ease. It’s no wonder the 1JZ is a drifters’ favorite. One reason they’re so popular is they’re cheaper and more common than you may think. They’re the engine found in most of the thousands of Toyota Soarers that were imported to the UK. They are now usually found looking pretty unloved on places like eBay and Gumtree. Although recent popularity soars into older Japanese cars has seen the availability decrease.

2JZGE

While the turbo versions are the most popular, don’t ignore the 2JZGE, the non-turbo three-liter lump. Totally unloved in the UK, almost worthless in fact, they hold a secret. One that makes them a lot more popular elsewhere in the world. It’s the fact they are insanely strong. When we say strong, we mean it. The internals are almost the same as the turbo version, and once the thicker turbo-spec head gasket has been fitted, many happily run upwards of 600bhp on turbo converted standard GE engines.

1.5J

Finally, another option is the 1.5J engine. This is a mish-mash of 1JZ head, and 2JZGE bottom end. The reason this is done is usually because somebody’s 1JZ bottom end has failed. Rather than repair it, they simply fitting a standard 2JZGE bottom end .This is cheaper, half a liter bigger capacity and just as strong. As a result, it makes a lot of sense. Contrary to popular myth, a 2JZ head flows better than a 1J, so for insane power, a 2J is still the ultimate. But if you ever blow your 1JZ bottom end up, well we know what we would do.

Fancy a Mk4 Supra? Check out our Supra buyer’s guide for tips!

Spoon Integra Type R DC2

Honda B Series

While Honda fans worship them, most people don’t understand why the little B Series is considered so special. Well let us tell you. They feature an incredible design for a production engine, both as standard, and especially when tuned.

This is the engine that introduced the world to VTEC. The first B16A pushed out 158bhp from just 1595cc without a turbo or supercharger in sight, and revving to 8,200rpm. It’s pretty amazing numbers for a standard engine even today and this was back in 1989!

As the years went on the little 1.6 got more powerful and the Type R version made a huge 185bhp and revved to 9,000rpm, all while being still just 1,595cc! The B18C is a 1.8-litre version. While not hugely more powerful as standard, ranging from 170bhp to 200bhp, the extra capacity gives a useful increase in torque, magnified once you get tuning.

So while the VTEC B Series lumps are works of art, that’s not what this feature is about. The fact they can create ridiculous amounts of power is why they’re here!

The amount of tuning parts and knowledge available on the B Series is unbelievable. While power increases are possible with N/A tuning, the fact they’re so highly tuned from the factory means when you turbocharge them they really come alive.

Upwards of 500bhp has been achieved with just bolt-on turbo kits with B18s. And as countless cars in the USA have proven, fully built engines can push out insane numbers. The fact there’s B Series front-wheel drive Civics in the USA running 8 and even 7-second quarter-miles at well over 180mph says it all!

1900hp Nissan GT-R R35

Nissan VR38DETT 

It usually takes a long time for an engine to get tuned to big power. But despite people saying it would never be as tunable as the RB26 (in GT-Rs), the VR38DETT – the 3.8-litre twin turbo V6 from the Nissan GT-R – was being tuned to four-digit power figures within a year of release, cementing its place on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune.

The VR38 is a tuner’s dream. Starting at upwards of 500bhp as standard, over 600bhp is possible on the standard turbos, 750bhp is considered safe on standard internals. And the maximum power possible? Well, upwards of 2000bhp is achievable… And just in case 3.8 liters isn’t enough for you, there are stroker kits available that can take the engine right up to 4.6 liters!

While they’re fitted as standard in the Nissan GT-R, we’ve seen them fitted to Nissan Silvias and Skylines, along with conventional manual gearboxes. It has to be up there as the ultimate engine swap. So, what are you waiting for!?

Be sure to check out our Nissan GT-R R35 tuning guide for advice.

Nissan Silvia S14a

Nissan SR20DET

The SR20DET is one of the most commonly tuned 2-litre turbo engines worldwide, with gazillions of parts available. But why is it so popular and tunable?

While it’s not groundbreaking, what it does, it does well, giving great bang for the buck. With just over 200bhp as standard, the engines aren’t anything to write home about from the factory. But even really mild tuning takes the power to around 270bhp, which totally transforms a car. And if tuned properly, 400bhp is safe on good condition standard internals.

While it’s not as common to see big power SR20s as it is some other 2ltr lumps, fully built engines fitted with the ultra high flowing VVL cylinder head from JDM-only SR16VE and SR20VE engines have pushed these engines to well over 700bhp. Some over 1,000bhp…

700bhp Mazda RX-7 FD with TCP-Magic bodykit

Mazda RX-7 Rotary

While the Mazda Rotary engine is very unusual and needs specialist experience to tune it with success, one of these engines tuned correctly is almost unbeatable, which is why it’s here on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune. They’re banned from the Le Mans 24hr because no piston engine could keep up!

Their relative tiny size means they can pack a hell of a punch in a small space, with even a quad rotor engine being no longer than a typical straight six, despite giving the kind of grunt you’d expect from a big V8.

Not only are they powerful for their small size, their design means they rev fast and hard. The free spinning feeling is like a superbike engine rather than a typical piston lump. While over 150bhp per rotor is possible naturally aspirated, which is a huge amount, once you add a turbo, it’s easily 350bhp per rotor, and more like 500bhp per rotor in full-on drag race engines.

Almost no engine lends itself to turbocharging as well as the Rotary. Their design gives very strong, and hot, exhaust pulses, so they can spool big turbos easily. A typical twin-rotor RX-7 engine can spool turbos as easy as a big 3ltr piston lump and three and four rotor engines put V8s to shame in the turbo spooling department.

Best of all, due to the modular nature of the rotary engine, if you have the money and skills, creating a bigger rotary engine just involves bolting more rotors on. This is, after all, how most quad rotors are made, we even featured a six-rotor RX-3 in FC a little while back…

1UZ-powered Toyota Celica Mk1

Toyota 1UZ

While some road car engines are turned in to race engines, the Toyota 1UZ V8, usually found plodding away in various 1990s Lexus vehicles, was designed as a race engine, and then converted to road use.

Toyota spent around $30 million in the late ’80s developing the 1UZ with the intention of using it as a race engine for Le Mans and Japanese GT racing. However, the rules of the classes they planned to run it in were changed, making the engine surplus to requirements. So it was heavily de-tuned and fitted to various low revving luxury cars instead.

The story might sound hard to believe, but once you start to take the engine apart it all makes sense. As well as being incredibly light for a V8 – less than many 2ltr engines in fact – it really does look like a race engine when you see the design of it and can happily rev to 8,000rpm on standard internals. Incredible for a production V8 lump, which is why it features in our 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

With the restrictive intake and exhaust set-up swapped for individual throttle bodies and tubular manifolds, and four lumpy cams fitted, over 400bhp naturally aspirated on the standard bottom end has been achieved. Even in endurance race spec, designed to last 24 hours flat out, they can produce well over 500bhp without a turbo in sight – and rev to over 10,000rpm too. Not too shabby.

Just like any engine, they really come alive with the addition of boost and 600bhp plus on standard internals is considered quite safe. People have run over double that on fully built engines for high miles with no problems at all.

Twin-charged Evo

Mitsubishi 4G63

Found in the first nine generations of the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution (the Evo X has a 4B11T engine), the 2-litre turbo 4G63 lump is considered one of the most tunable four-cylinder engines ever made. It’s deserved of its place on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune.

Designed from the outset with rallying in mind, the engine is hugely strong. It’s easily tunable using standard components to conform with Group N and Group A rally rules. This requires many standard parts, including intercooler, manifolds, general turbo size, and a lot of engine internals.

Because of this, all 4G63s came with a massive front mount intercooler from the factory and an impressively big turbo – later versions came with a ultra-trick twin scroll turbo set-up with twin wastegates, some capable of well over 400bhp.

While the standard turbo takes you a long way, there’s almost endless big turbo kits, stroker kits, dry sump conversions, even twincharger kits available, meaning you can run a supercharger and a turbo. Check out the twincharged Evo in the photo above!

Where’s the limit? Well, more power is able to be made than could realistically be put to the tarmac. But 2,000bhp has been claimed by certain methanol fueled monster 4G63s…

Bagged Subaru Impreza P1

Subaru EJ Series

The Subaru EJ series turbo engines, with their unusual flat (or boxer) four cylinder layout and distinctive exhaust note, have been hugely popular in the tuning scene for around 20 years now – and they seem to be getting more powerful all the time. It almost had to feature in our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

The flat four engine can make access to certain parts of the engine a pain at times. But the huge success of the EJ in all forms of motorsport proves its worth when tuning. With capacities from 2-litre to 2.5-litre as standard, and stroker kits allowing as much as 2.7-litre, it’s a big engine for just four cylinders. But regardless of your capacity (most of the biggest power ones are around 2.2-litre), big power is certainly possible.

While changing the exhaust manifold to fit big turbos is a difficult and expensive task on these engines, thankfully a huge range of Impreza specialists produce direct replacement hybrid turbos, some capable of upwards of 500bhp. A lot of power in anyone’s books, and a level some people have pushed standard internals too!

For a fully built engine, upwards of 800bhp has proven reliable even with hard track use, and we’ve seen claims of over 1,400bhp from EJ-powered drag monsters. There’s no doubt the Impreza lump is up there with the four cylinder greats… Looking to tune your EJ20? We’ve put together a GC8 tuning guide just for you…

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Track Car

Honda K20

The high-revving, happy-go-lucky nature of the K20, alongside its likeness for forced induction is why it had to feature on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune. Though there’s much debate in Honda circles about it, overall, the 2-litre K20 (as found in the EP3 and FN2 Civic Type Rs and the DC5 Integra Type R), is considered the best production engine Honda have made. The newer 300bhp-plus turbo FK2 and FK8 Type R comes with a K20 based engine. Again, it’s tuneable.

Surprisingly for an engine that leaves the factory in such a high state of tune, even in naturally aspirated form there’s a lot more power to be had. With the 2.4-litre K24 bottom-end bolted on, and 2.6-litre stroker kits available too, well over 300bhp, even with great torque and road manors, is perfectly possible. And this is without resorting to a turbo or supercharger.

While the standard internals are not weak, and people have still managed 500bhp-plus from stock K20s with turbo conversions, the conrods are the weak point. So for big power turbo motors, you need to delve into the internals and fit forged pistons and steel rods.

Once fully built with uprated internals, the K20 is an incredible piece of kit whether naturally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged. The clever VTEC head means drivability is fantastic compared to most other engines of the same capacity and state of tune.

The post Best Japanese Engines To Tune appeared first on Fast Car.

A cool engine is a happy engine. We can all agree that, if you’re running any sort of performance car and you’re not adverse to driving it hard from time to time, an uprated radiator is one of the all-time great engine safeguards. But what does a car radiator do, what are the best brands to choose from, and when do you need to upgrade your factory item? Well, you’ve come to the right place. Here, we’ll explain all and advise on the best car radiators on the market.

What is a car radiator?

Unless you happen to own an air-cooled-engined vehicle, then your car will feature a water radiator. It’s job is simple, keep the engine temperatures within a happy range between 185F-220F (85-105C). A cooler engine can help improve performance, but it’s main purpose to prolong the engine; to avoid it damaging itself due to heat.

The real-world problem with alloy radiators, though, isn’t so much about how they perform, traditionally at least, it’s always been getting your hands on an upgrade in a timely manner.

You see, in the old days, there was no such thing as a commercially available, off-the-shelf ally rad. To stand any sort of a chance of getting race car levels of cooling you’d have to go and see a local fabricator for a custom job… and then prepare yourself for an extreme wallet transplant. All this made performance alloy radiators the reserve of motorsport aficionados and the tuning elite for many, many years.

But that dear reader, is why it’s such a great time to be alive. Because nowadays, high-performance off-the-shelf items are just about everywhere. But then again, it does beg the ultimate question; with all this choice what ones are best here in 2024?

Well, have a little look at our guide and we’ll bestow you with some of the best car radiator picks out there.

Best car radiator brands in 2024

GReddy

The most famous alloy radiators of all? It’s very likely. Which is why we’ve featured it in our list of the best car radiator brands. In fact, many have credited GReddy, along with a few other Japanese uber brands like HKS and Spoon, with kicking off the global market for uprated, direct-fit products in the first place.

You see, tuners in Japan caught on extremely early to the fact that there was a need for off-the-shelf cooling upgrades. So, when we got an influx of Japanese imports into Europe and the US during the nineties, it brought with it the ‘overnight parts from Japan’ era. Pretty soon the home-grown manufacturers decided to get in on the action for other vehicles, and a whole new segment of the modifying industry was born. I can’t say if that’s strictly true of course, but it’s a nice story.

There’s no denying that, in the eyes of many, GReddy is still the daddy for just about any Japanese car. This could also have something to do with the fact that HKS don’t make alloy radiators these days, just branded radiator caps. What many don’t know though, is that many of the parts supplied by GReddy – which is itself owned by the Japanese mega corporation, Trust – are developed by their US distributor in California. Although the parts are still officially made in Japan.

Again, these aren’t what you call cheap but that’s kind of the point of having all the big kudos gear stuffed under the bonnet of your high-end tuner car, right?  The GReddy name is easily as iconic as any GT-R, STi or Type R badge, and that’s why you’ll find them right at the top of our list of the best radiators for 2024. Shop for GReddy parts here.

Mishimoto

One of the biggest names out there, with perhaps the biggest fitment range of aftermarket radiators on the planet, it’s hard to believe that Mishimoto has only been around since 2005, because (even to us older guys) it seems like they’ve been on the tuning scene forever. It’s also a common misconception that Mishimoto hail from Asia, when in fact they’re one of the premium all-American brands. They manufacture and develop their products in-house at their massive, state-of-the-art facility in New Castle, Delaware.

When you think about it, what Mishimoto have achieved over the last couple of decades is staggering. They’re one of those brands that don’t just make high-quality, well-fitting alloy radiators that perform at the highest level, but they make radiators that actually look cool. That’s not an easy trick to pull off with such a functional part, and it’s earned them plenty of fans all around the world. And rightly so.

There’s plenty of kudos from those in the know here, and they’re no stranger to the finer details like flashy radiator caps and other optional extras like high performance cooling fans and fitment-specific shrouds. But, what I like most is the sort of build quality that’s not usually associated with high-volume off-the-shelf parts. All their radiators come with a lifetime warranty, which is pretty unusual, too.

So, with over 200 popular applications not only is it highly likely they’ll have a radiator for your car, but you know it’s going to be one of the best. Shop for Mishimoto parts here.

AIRTEC Motorsport (Auto Specialists)

This legendary British fabrication firm cut their teeth as Auto Specialists in the ‘90s fast Ford market and nowadays are perhaps best known for their FMIC upgrades. But let’s not forget that, in terms of manufacturing skill at least, there’s not a huge difference between top quality intercoolers and ally rads. So, it makes sense that they have developed some pretty special radiators under their AIRTEC Motorsport brand over the years, too.

It’s true that these guys may not have the most extensive range of radiators out there, but they’ve successfully expanded their fitment list and (while the Auto Specialists name continues, making performance and classic Fords something of a specialty) there’s a few popular BMW and VAG motors that can benefit from their 30-something years of experience in motorsport.

From their home base in Essex, UK, what these guys do extremely well is offer uber quality for the segment of the market that wants the best hand-made parts available. They also tend to concentrate on high-end and classic fitments that you simply won’t find anywhere else. To this day they still take on small-volume and bespoke fabrication work, and they’re easily some of the best when it comes to craftmanship and old skool engineering.

Ultra reliable, well-made, decent prices, what’s not to love? Shop for AIRTEC parts here.

Spoon Sports

If you haven’t got a Honda, you might as well scroll on for a bit. If, however you’re rocking the mighty H badge, and you’re looking for the maximum possible tuner points, a Spoon Sports part or two is probably right at the top of your shopping list. Which is why I couldn’t leave Spoon off of our list of the best car radiator brands.

And no, it’s not just because – spoiler alert – “Hector is going to be running three Honda Civics with Spoon engines.” (And on top of that, he just went into Harry’s and ordered 3 T66 turbos, with NOS… and a Motec system exhaust). It’s because Ichishima-san and his crew are the guys that many believe put Honda on the map in motorsport as well as in the street-racing fraternity. And they would be correct.

To say that Spoon is legendary in the tuning community is putting it mildly. They’re a premium, uber-quality manufacturer for sure and, at this level, who’s looking at the price tag anyway? But, although they’ve been absolutely killing it with all sorts of performance parts since the early ‘80s, what about their alloy radiators?

Well, the answer is simple – if you can afford to drop 1500-smackers or so, there’s a lot to love. It goes without saying that they’re all pant-wetting quality and have the track-tested, high-performance credentials to match. In fact, in the majority of Honda tests we’ve seen (and carried out ourselves) over the years, Spoon have been right at the top of the game – just check out our Best Radiator For the Honda Civic Type R Guide for starters!

If you’re looking for out-and-out kudos, there’s no need to search any further. Buy Spoon parts here.

CSF

This massive American corporation dates back to the mid 1940s when it started as small family business specializing in radiator repairs. Nowadays though – four generations of the same family later – they sell over 650,000 radiators every year. That’s around 35 million radiators to date. So, let’s just say they know a thing or two about automotive cooling.

Aside from their massive client list of OEM manufacturers – not to mention some of the toughest applications out there (you can pretty much guarantee any Caterpillar, JCB, John Deer or Mercedes HGV will be rocking CSF hardware) they also have a truly massive racing and performance division. It’s here that you’ll find the famous all-aluminum aftermarket radiators we know and love.

Now obviously, they take the business rather seriously. Their quality control is nothing short of legendary, every radiator they build is tested individually before it leaves the factory. You can’t fault the engineering and design involved, either. Among other things, these guys test vibration cycles, burst pressure and thermal cycles. They also spray the whole lot with salt to look at the impact of corrosion and whack them in their wind tunnel to make sure they perform at the highest level. They go so far as to test their packaging to the extreme, too. Dropping the boxes from a 10-foot high rig, just to make sure everything is top notch for the worldwide shipping. Bonkers!

What with all this you’d think that the prices would be a bit on the silly side, right? But no, they’re actually pretty reasonable. CSF even make a whole host private label radiators – the items sold by other aftermarket brands such as VF Engineering, Mountune, Honda Racing and many, many more. Buy CSF parts here.

Radtec

With solid credentials in motorsport, not to mention one of the best reputations in the retro car market, Radtec is one of those firms whispered about by those in the know. Arguably these have become the go-to for the more decerning motoring connoisseur. Speak to any old skool engineer or experienced classic car enthusiast in the UK and it’s likely they’ll point you straight in their direction.

It’s all with good reason though, there’s a distinct no-nonsense approach to what they do. It’s all pretty simple; they make impeccably engineered alloy radiators, manufactured to the best possible standard, which do everything exactly as they should.  Many claim that their race-proven products are absolutely bulletproof, which always counts for a lot.

What’s always a good sign is that Radtec seem to list a whole host of weird and wonderful applications that none of us wouldn’t have even thought of. Loads of the niche stuff as well as all the popular performance fitments you’d expect.

Basically then, what we’re talking about is British engineering at its finest. Radtec is always a well-educated choice, which is why it features in our list of the best car radiator brands. Buy Radtec parts here.

Direnza Performance

What I’ve always loved about the guys at Direnza is that, ever since they started a decade or so ago, they’ve always used the most up-to-date tech to develop their products, in-house, in the UK.

These European car specialists are a rare and beautiful thing in the modified car world, because their gear seems to be so reasonably priced, it’s easy to be fooled into the notion that the products themselves aren’t top notch. In reality, nothing can be further from the truth. They’re up there with the very best.

I’ve witnessed first-hand all the laser scanning and 3D printing they go through in the prototyping stages. I’ve also seen them using CAD design to ensure perfect fitment and the extensive road and track performance testing. So, I’m not at all surprised that they’ve become one of the most popular modifying brands in the UK. Sometimes it’s not just about price, is it? It’s about getting the best balance. And I think that Direnza have got it spot on in that respect. You could even call them the Euro modifying brand of the people.

Anyway, when it comes to their alloy radiator line up (including their thoroughly understated Black Series items) they offer a wide range of fitments for performance models from the likes of Fiat, VW, Ford, BMW and Audi. I have to say, too, the build-quality is just as good as the value for money. In fact, if you want something that works without costing the Earth, I just can’t fault ‘em. Buy Direnza parts here.

Koyorad

Old skool Japanese craftsmanship is the name of the game here, along with all the modifying community kudos that comes with that concept. Koyorad has been making aftermarket radiators since the 1950s and are world renowned in terms of quality and performance. So, with that sort of top-end reputation, you’d think they were one of those low volume manufacturers focusing on the arts and crafts tradition that Japan is so famous for. But, while they do the traditional bit very well, the actual company is enormous. Which is why it features here in our list of the best car radiator brands.

When it comes to their alloy racing radiators, they have a surprisingly large fitment list. But what’s most important is that it actually covers a whole host of non JDM cars, something which doesn’t happen very often in Japan. A most honorable pursuit, we’re sure. The even better news is that they’re not quite as expensive you’d think, either. Oh, and they’re actually available from a ton of official distributors all around the world.

Most of all though, Koyorad racing radiators (or just Koyo radiators as they’re sometimes known) are one of those rare and magical products in the car world that look substantially more expensive than they actually are. And, for that reason alone, they deserve a place in our best car radiators for 2023 line up. Buy Koyorad parts here.

Japspeed

If you’ve got a Japanese motor, and you happen to live in the UK, Ireland or Europe, Japspeed is probably your first port of call when it comes to finding an alloy radiator. In fact, if you’ve just bought your car, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if you’ve already got one, they’re that popular.

The original, and much imitated, one-stop-shop for Japanese cars here in the UK, these guys have been developing their own products in-house for decades now and, along with their exhausts, downpipes, intercoolers, they’ve built up quite the extensive range of lightweight performance radiators for a whole host of core cars.  Many of these have been developed and tested to the extreme on their own collection of race and drift cars, so the results in terms of performance and durability speak for themselves.

Offering great quality, well-performing units is one thing though, but there’s no denying that the prices help to make them one of the most popular out there. Even we’re not sure how they keep them down to such a level where they almost become an impulse purchase. Their radiators start at as little as 160-quid, which pushes them well into the reach of us mere mortals. What these guys also do very well is offer the parts that aren’t available elsewhere, adding to their infinite popularity.

Basically speaking, without Japspeed, there would be a lot of street and race cars still running bog standard cooling systems. And, just for that, I can’t help but love them. Buy Japspeed parts here.

How the best car radiators were chosen

Now, I can’t confess to have personally tested each and every brand on this list, but I’ve been in the aftermarket game for decades now. As such, I know a thing or two about which brands you should trust, and which are best to avoid. Each of the manufacturers name-checked here are companies that I’d gladly source parts from for my own car. In fact, in some cases I’ve done exactly that!

When to upgrade your car radiator

While most standard radiators are great even with hard track use or massively increased power levels, there are always weaknesses. At some point, you may need to upgrade.

The most obvious reason for upgrading your radiator is because the factory one can’t put up with the abuse you’re giving it and the temperature is rising beyond safe limits. In that scenario, a larger aftermarket radiator is the way to go. The second reason is less obvious; the plastic end tanks have been known to burst with age and heat, instantly destroying the radiator.

Thankfully, the vast majority of cars have all-alloy performance upgrades available. These are usually of a larger capacity too. This makes for an easy direct replacement upgrade that solves both main standard radiator issues at once.

Not quite got the budget for full-on new parts? Read about intercooler sprays instead.

Did you know that we host a whole load of performance car events across the year? Be sure to check out Fast Car Events page to find out what’s coming up next! 

Photos: Dan Burr. 

The post Best Car Radiator Brands In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

You may have heard that a better flowing cylinder head will improve an engine’s power potential. And you may have heard of the terms porting, gas-flowing and a big-valve head, but do you know what they actually mean, how they work and why they give the power gains they do? To answer these questions, we take a closer look at the world of cylinder head porting, breaking down different terms, and explain why cylinder head porting is crucial for gaining extra performance in a reliable manner. But, let’s start with explaining what a cylinder head is and what is does.

What does a cylinder head do?

The cylinder head is what allows the engine to breathe. It allows air/fuel mixture into the engine through one set of valves, then seals the cylinder when the valves close. This is so the mixture can combust and produce power, before expelling unwanted exhaust gases through another set of valves. As a result, it’s a crucial aspect of how an internal combustion engine works on a car.

Specialists and tuners often refer to the cylinder head as ‘the lungs of the engine’. Air is drawn in, used to create energy and then expelled out again. And sticking with our anatomical analogy, the best way to think of a standard head is as the lungs from someone who has been smoking for 50 years. The airways are restrictive and could be a whole lot better. If, however, the cylinder head ports were increased its size, the head acts more like the lungs from a long-distance runner. They are much more efficient and less restrictive to performance.

Another way to look at it is to think of the bottom end of the engine as a big pump. The cylinder head is what allows air in and out of that pump. Obviously, the more usable air/fuel you can get in, and the more exhaust gases you can get out, the more power that pump will produce.

Bigger is better?

However, sadly it’s not just a simple case of bigger is better. The head modifications need to work with the rest of the engine spec. There’s no point having a massively ported head if the rest of the engine (including induction, fueling and exhaust systems) is more restrictive than the ports in the head. However, if the engine has got a host of other goodies like lairy cams, bigger injectors, and so on, the standard ports in the head can quickly become the most restrictive part of the entire gas flow in and out of the engine.  Therefore, it responds really well to porting and machine work.

Most standard ports are quite restrictive to airflow

What are cylinder head ports?

The cylinder head ports are the passages that the fuel and air mixture travel along to enter the cylinder bores and the exhaust gases use to escape from the engine. The majority of standard heads have lots of excess material in the ports. This is due to the costs involved with fine tuning each individual head after the casting process. Major improvements can be made to the head here. When you place the inlet or exhaust manifold gaskets on a factory head, for example, you will see that there is usually a good 1-2mm of material before the ports and the manifolds line up. This material can be removed to enlarge the port to offer less restriction to the flow of gases.

But it’s not a simple case of making everything bigger. A good flowing head will have the ports as straight as possible, too. This is so the gases flow as directly as they can. As a result, this means that on some heads most or even all of the material needs to be removed from one particular area to straighten up the flow path as much as possible. The smoother and more direct the port flow from the manifold to the valve, the lower the restriction to gas flow.

Machining guides

In addition, some cylinder heads have valve guides that protrude into the throat area of the port, causing further disruption to the airflow. This is one key area that cylinder head specialists concentrate on; either ‘bullet-nosing’ the guides, or machining them back flush with the rest of the port. This can make a huge difference to the airflow and performance potential.

Larger ports will flow more gases than standard ports. But, it is as much about the shape and the flow of the port as it is about the physical size.

Modern day cylinder head porting

Traditionally, cylinder head porting has been done by hand, and is something of an art-form. It’s not something we’d recommend you have a go at yourself in your shed.

But modern-day technology does mean that specialists can use computers to help them out a bit. The first port and first set of inlet and exhaust valves are still ported manually. But rather than worrying about multiple ports to deal with, they concentrate all their efforts on just one. This process can take several weeks; porting, testing, flowing, porting again, and so on until they are happy. Once happy, the port can then be digitally scanned before the programme is loaded into a state-of-the-art CNC machine. The incredible accuracy of the CNC machine ensures that all ports are exactly the same shape and design. Therefore, they will flow exactly the same amount of air.

Combustion chamber

The combustion chamber is where the fuel and air mixture is ignited via the spark plug to cause combustion, and therefore energy. The more complete the combustion, in terms of burning all the available fuel and air mixture, the more efficient the engine will be. In turn, the more power it will produce.

Smoothing the combustion chamber can help prevent coke build-up.

The head doesn’t have an effect on how complete the combustion will be. Complex issues with the ignition and fuel timing through the ECU control that. However, the combustion chamber itself can be smoothed and polished to make it less susceptible to coke build-up. And that coke build-up can cause hot spots within the combustion chamber. This in-turn can have an effect on how the fuel and air mixture combusts.

That’s why many specialists smooth out the surface of the combustion chamber at the same time as porting the cylinder head.

Some performance valves feature a very narrow throat to pose as little restriction as possible.

Cylinder head valves

The inlet and exhaust valves open to let fuel and air in, shut to create a seal in the cylinder, then open to let exhaust gases out.

Fitting bigger valves means the openings through which the air and fuel mixture enters, and exhaust gases exit, the cylinder are bigger. The bigger the opening the more gas can flow through. Simple as that, then?

Not quite. It’s not all about the size. Bigger valves have a lower gas speed entering the cylinder, which can cause problems with performance. Instead, specialists will work out how much air flow is needed to create the desired power levels. Then, they to achieve this flow rate with as small a valve as possible. This in-turn helps to keep the gas speed as high as possible.

Typical ‘big valves’ in most applications are between 1-2mm larger diameter than standard. This is the usual limit a valve seat in an alloy head will allow. With cast iron heads like the older Pinto engines, the valve seat is machined as part of the head so you can fit much larger valves without too many problems.

What are the different types of valves on the cylinder head?

There are two types of valve; one and two-piece. Most OE valves are of a two-piece design where the head and stem are made from separate materials then fused together to become one. The easiest way to tell if a valve is a two-piece item is to put a magnet to it; two-piece valves have a magnetic stem and a non-magnetic head. One-piece valves are usually made of a high-grade stainless steel such as 214N.

On turbocharged engines, which can experience higher cylinder temperatures, the valves may be sodium-filled to help with heat dissipation.

The shape and design of the valve also has a huge effect on the way the head flows air/fuel mixture and exhaust gases. Some high-performance engines respond well to what are affectionately known as ‘penny-on-a-stick’ valves, so called because of how they look. They have a narrower throat to the valve, and the valve itself is flatter and thinner than standard. The area gained by removing material from the valve allows the gases to flow quicker and easier past the valve. However, it depends largely on the design of the port as to whether these valves will work or not.

Bronze valve guides can cope with the increased heat of a performance engine better than factory-spec steel items.

Valve guides

The valve guides support the valve within the head. Most modern alloy heads have separate valve guides. However, with the older engines, such as the Pinto and the Crossflow, the valve guides are actually part of the casting.

With alloy heads the valve guide is a separate piece because the head is too soft to withstand the opening and closing motion of the valve. This means they would wear out rapidly. A steel guide insert is usually fitted.

With some performance engines such as the Cosworth YB, and many later engines, bronze valve guides are standard. Bronze helps with heat dissipation. The valves, especially exhaust valves, get very hot and can expand, and the effect is even worse in turbocharged engines. The clearance between the valves and the guides is incredibly tight, typically between 1.5 and 2thou. There isn’t much room for the valves to expand before they touch the guides. Bronze guides can deal with the heat better and help reduce the problem. They also wear much better than cast iron guides, and will last longer.

Valve springs

The valve springs’ job is to shut the valves after the camshaft has opened them, and keep them shut until the camshaft opens them again. In theory it is straightforward but there is a bit of science involved when choosing the springs to match the camshaft.

On a camshaft with high lift, the opening and closing ramps on the lobes are usually quite steep and aggressive. As you can imagine, when the engine’s revving at 7000rpm the force at which the valve hits the seat as it closes is quite hard; it is likely to want to bounce back off the seat a little. This is where you need uprated valve springs matched to the camshaft, as they will keep the valve shut and eliminate this problem.

Also the valve springs have to be matched for height to avoid becoming coil-bound at full valve lift. A higher-lift cam will compress the spring more than a normal lift cam, so the valve spring will need to accommodate this. A valve spring should always have 40thou clearance between the coils when at full lift.

Double valve springs

Double valve springs are also available for high-performance engines and work in the same way as single springs. The main benefit of double springs is they offer more strength to keep the valve closed. It is not always possible to achieve this strength with a single spring. The second, inner spring, is always shorter than the outer spring. This means the valve is easier to open because there is less resistance at first. However, when it closes it has the force of both springs pressing against it. This also helps keep the valve shut in engines with particularly aggressive camshaft designs.

Manufacturers or tuners cut valve seats using specialist tooling.

Valve seats

The valve seat is what creates the seal when the valves close. Without an airtight seal the engine would have no compression and would therefore not run.

The part of the seat that creates the seal is the 45-degree angle that matches the 45-degree angle on the valve, and the thickness of this angle can affect a head’s performance. Narrower valve seats are less obstructive to the airflow, therefore a head with narrower seats is capable of producing more power.

The valve seat on the exhaust side helps dissipate heat from the exhaust valves. The exhaust valve seat needs to be significantly larger than the inlet seat because when the valve is shut, the contact between the two helps take heat away from the hot exhaust valve. If the contact area’s too small the exhaust valves would get too hot.

Valve seat cuts

A lot of cylinder head porting specialists like to cut three angles in to the valve seats. This opens up the seat to encourage the air/fuel mix and exhaust gases to flow around the valve rather than straight in at a 45-degree angle and potentially cause turbulence. Usually the first angle is cut at 60-degrees. The second angle is the sealing section at 45-degrees to match the valve. The third is opened up to 25- or 30- degrees.

A valve seat is around 6mm thick, so the angles are typically divided up so that the first angle is about 3.5mm. The second is 1.5mm. The third is 1mm wide.

On high-performance engines specialists will sometimes cut five angles in the valve seat, or even cut ‘radius’ valve seats which further encourage the gases to flow around the valves.

The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves within the head.

Camshafts

The choice of camshafts is a world of its own, and is far too complex to go into detail in this cylinder head porting guide. You can check out our camshaft guide for more advice.

However, the camshaft does have a massive influence on how the head works and reacts with different aspects of head tuning. It’s worth summarizing some of the key points while looking at cylinder heads too.

The camshaft turns rotational movement into linear movement to open and close the valves. The camshaft design determines the length of time the valves open for (duration) and the height the valves rise to (lift). These different designs will give an engine different characteristics. However, as far as the head is concerned, the camshaft dictates how much air/fuel mixture gets in and how much exhaust gases get out of an engine. Any modification carried out to the head, such as porting or bigger valves, needs a camshaft tailored to suit. For the best advice speak to cylinder head specialists or direct to the camshaft manufacturers. They will be able to guide you specifically for your engine.

Most cam follows are hydraulic, but mechanical items are often required with particularly aggressive cam profiles.

Cylinder head porting a normally aspirated engine vs forced induction

When cylinder head porting a turbocharged or supercharged engine, you need to take a different approach to that when porting a naturally-aspirated cylinder head. With a turbocharged engine you can force a lot of air/fuel mixture through what is not necessarily a well-designed port, so the incoming gases are not too much of a problem. However, getting the exhaust gases out is.

On a traditional naturally-aspirated engine, the exhaust ports need to flow around 75% of the inlet ports. For example, if an inlet port flows 100cfm, the exhaust ports would need to flow around 75cfm. However, on a turbocharged engine the exhaust ports need to flow around 90% of the inlet ports. So, using our previous example, this would mean that the exhaust valves would need to flow 90cfm instead of 75cfm. Therefore, in short, a turbocharged head needs much more work on the exhaust ports, and a naturally-aspirated head needs more work on the inlet side of things.

Love modified cars? Did you know that we host performance events across the year at some of the biggest race tracks in the UK? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment events page to see what’s coming up next. 

The post Cylinder Head Porting: A Comprehensive Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The Mk2 Golf GTI had some pretty big shoes to fill when it was launched back in 1983. While it was slightly larger and heavier than the Mk1 GTI, it still had that vital DNA. Thankfully, it offered the same mix of fun and practicality that made the original Hot Hatch such a smash hit. 

While it may have been a financial success for Volkswagen, for quite some time the Mk2 GTI didn’t hold the same kudos as the Mk1. Perhaps this was because it simply wasn’t the ‘original’ hot hatch or it hadn’t been ‘styled by Giugiaro’. Either way, some might argue that these days, it’s actually the better car…

Golf GTI Mk2 prices on the rise

It’s quite astonishing to think that you’ll still occasionally see Mk2 Golf GTIs being daily driven today. Especially when you consider that some early cars are now over 40 years old. While this longevity has been great for some users, it hasn’t suited everybody. The car’s popularity hasn’t been fantastic for those collectors looking to cash-in on their investment. Well, not until recently, at least… 

Due to its bomb-proof build quality and huge production run (6.3 million examples were produced in total) the Mk2 Golf was obviously quite popular.  It’s also been one of the last modern classics to see residual values significantly rise for these very reasons. Thankfully, as Mk2 GTI numbers finally start to dwindle the car’s cult status has increased, and so have second-hand prices. The fact parts are becoming increasing hard to come by and expensive is the main reason for the rise in value. Well, this and the fact people are finally realising just how good this car is…

Late-spec ‘big bumper’ cars also came with smoked rear lenses

VW Golf GTI Mk2 Most common problems

• Accident damage. Many of these cars will have been driven ‘enthusiastically’ at some stage of their lives, so check the panel gaps to make sure they line up and look for any odd coloured panels, which might hint at accident damage.
• Roof lining sagging. As many of these cars are approaching 40 years old, one common problem is the original roof linings failing, meaning they may sag or drop down in places. While new material is available to fix this, it’s a quite a tricky job to do.
• Corrosion/rust. While the mechanics on these cars are very robust and easy to repair, rotten shells can be timely and expensive to fix. Look for cars that have been garaged – the less rust you can find the better. Do check sills and behind the GTI arch trims.

Pros and cons

Pros:

• Smiles per mile
• Great investment properties
• Excellent build quality

Cons:

• Be quick – prices are on the up
• Parts becoming harder to find
• Five-door models less desirable

Mk2 Golf GTI History

You may remember the GTI version of the original Golf came much later on in the Mk1 production run. That wasn’t the case with the Mk2 – the GTI model being launched in the same year the car was released – 1983. VW had cracked the ‘sporting Golf’ formula with the Mk1, so wanted to hit the ground running with the Mk2. Well, that’s exactly what it did. There were obvious styling links to its predecessor, albeit with a much bigger, roomier interior and a more mature character. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, was clearly the thinking in many respects. 

Model timeline

• 1983 (1984 UK) – Mk2 Golf GTI 8v launched
• 1986 – Mk2 Golf GTI 16v launched
• 1987 – Subtle facelift
• 1989 (1990 UK) – Big-bumper facelift (90-spec)
• 1991 – Production ends

In fact, when the car rolled off the production line back in 1983 it featured practically the same engine found in the Mk1 GTI. That right, it was actually powered by an almost identical 1.8-litre 8v engine that was fitted to the run-out Mk1 GTI model. While its 110PS was slightly underwhelming, the excellent chassis meant it was great fun to drive, especially on B-roads. 

Come 1985, the 1.8-litre 8v gained hydraulic tappets (which were famous for chatting when the engine is cold). The following year a 137PS (139bhp) 16v was also added to the ‘GTI’ line up in order to keep up with the competition. This car (distinguishably by its bee-sting aerial and 16v badging) was faster, lower, stiffer and higher-revving than the 8v. Naturally, it appealed to those casing numbers, but purist favored the 8v, claiming it was far more fun to drive. 

Subtle facelift in 1987 saw quarter lights dropped and five-bar grille added

In 1987 the car received a very subtle facelift (above), which saw the front quarter lights being dropped. The car also had a five-bar grille fitted and some switchgear was changed inside. While many enthusiasts called the pre-87 cars ‘Type 19’, in fact, all Mk2s are technically Type 19s!

Big bumper car seen here, which also received fog lights, integrated spoilers and smoked rear lenses

Mk2 Golf GTI update

The biggest visual transformation came in 1989, when Volkswagen fitted the car with body-colored ‘big bumpers’ (above). Also added were smoked rear lenses, fog lights and integral spoilers. It wasn’t until 1990 that the car got power steering as standard. The following year the 8v model (which was still available to buy) received the 16v’s suspension and electric windows.

Production of the Mk2 finally ended in 1991 after 6.3 million examples had been made. It was replaced by the Mk3 Golf which was launched on the UK market in early 1992.  

Built to last

The reason the Mk2 Golf GTI – and VWs of that generation in general – have been some of the last modern classics to creep up in value is pretty simple – they were built so well in the first place, resulting in numbers remaining high compared to the competition. This is why models such as the Renault 5 GT Turbo, Nova GTE and Peugeot 205 GTI – which all suffered from heavy corrosion – have demanded a premium. When was the last time you saw a Mk2 Vauxhall Astra GTE or MG Montego Turbo out on the open road? 

Over engineered

Back in the early 80s, Volkswagen was on a mission to prove it built arguably the most durable cars around, which is why models such as the Mk2 are often referred to as being ‘over engineered’. They were built to last and last they jolly-well did, but thankfully resale values have finally started to soar over the past few years as even basic parts for these iconic cars become harder to source and more costly to buy.

Which VW Golf GTI Mk2 model should you buy? 

While the base model Mk2s were great daily cars, they would hardly set your world on fire. This is why the Mk2 Golf GTI model ticked all the boxes, as it was practical and fun, so it was an instant hit. It’s also why the sporty models are demanding a premium these days – even if they don’t feel quite as electric as they perhaps did first time around. Be it the early, small bumper cars or later, big bumper examples, the GTI really is the car to have if you’re after something that’s both reliable and fun. It could well be the ultimate modern classic. 

Choosing between an 8v or 16v GTI model (and small or big bumpers) really is down to own personal preference. Three-door cars have always been more desirable over five-door versions and, as a result, still demand a premium. Rare models, such as the GTI G60, Edition One, Rallye and super-exclusive ‘Limited’ have already rocketed on the second-hand market so, unless you’ve got really deep pockets to pay for the unique, hard-to-fine cars, we’d suggest you opt for a clean Mk2 Golf GTI model instead. 

The most important thing to remember is that the engines and mechanics on these cars is pretty robust, so rather than worrying about the mileage, you’re far better looking for a car with clean bodywork and a rust free chassis. Cars that have been garaged most of their lives really are the ones to look out for…      

What to look for when buying a VW Golf GTI Mk2

Below, I’ve broken the down into its key areas to help identify any potential problems that you should be aware of, as well as some general information.

Bodywork

The main thing to look out for when viewing any Mk2 Golf GTI is corrosion. While Volkswagen upped its game over the Mk1 where rust was concerned, meaning the Mk2 is much better at fending it off – but it’s by no means immune. So, like we said, it’s important to buy on condition and not mileage. 

Thankfully, the original paint itself is very good on these cars. A quick initial walk around the car will soon reveal any differences in paint tones, so check whether all panel colours match and also check the panel gaps to see whether the car has been invoiced in any accidents. 

Where corrosion is concerned, the inner wings in particular are a problem area and unfortunately, it’s not something you can realistically check until home, as the plastic liners make it a very difficult task. Shine the torch around the front suspension sub frame to find any areas of rust there. Around the filler cap is another hotspot, plus under the window rubbers. Some modified cars won’t have any arch liners, so with these you’re at least able to check.

More corrosion

Other areas to check include scuttle panel, sills, the bottom of doors and the rear valance – all of which are easy to access. Also, there’s a hidden area to examine for corrosion in the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Dirt and debris can accumulate here, especially if brake fluid has been leaking, which can cause the metal below to rot. If the model you’re eyeing up has a sunroof then the metal surround can often attract rust due to blocked drainage systems, so be sure to double check this, too. Check the door handles all work, too, and the rear hatch lock works.

It’s also wise to check out the quality of any work performed; if it’s obviously noticeable that it’s had a previous shunt of some description, then it’ll need putting right, adding to the overall cost. Mention this when haggling. Although, if you can do this work yourself or know someone who can put it right, it could be a quick win.

First 1.8-litre 8v engine fitted to Mk2 GTI was almost identical to one found in Mk1 GTI – hydraulic lifters came a little later on

Mk2 Golf GTI Engine

While on paper the Mk2 came with the choice of two engines (8v and 16v), effectively both had the same block and it was just the head that changed. No matter which engine you’re looking at, each unit should last well and worse case scenario, replacements are still easy to find second-hand, if you’re not worried about a matching numbers car. 

They are renowned for having a long lifespan, providing they’ve been sufficiently cared for with regular servicing. Always check for oil leaks on these either from the rocker cover or camshaft seals. Also, check inside the header tank cap for any sign of oil emulsifying (mayonnaise like substance), which may mean a blown head gasket.

As with any car, look out for black or blue smoke (check out our guide to exhaust smoke here to help you understand what different types of smoke mean). If you see blue smoke, you could be looking at worn valves or valve stem oil seals. Either way, the result could mean a complete cylinder head rebuild – not a cheap task.

Checks while test driving

Upon test-driving any Mk2 Golf GTI, sit with the engine idling for a while before engaging gear. Listen out for any misfires or the engine simply acting out of the ordinary: erratic movements, strong vibrations etc. If these issues occur, you may just need new ignition components. An uneven idle may hint at a faulty idea control valve. Remember, the ‘tappety’ noise on early cars should go away once the engine warms up and this is perfectly normal.

Often, it’s prudent to have a look on forums and internet auction sites for good condition used ones. If the K-Jetronic injected GTI feels leaden then there may be a problem with an injector. These can be hard to come by new.

If the injector isn’t the issue, it could be a possible leak to one of the vacuum hoses or either a seized metering head or stuck flap to the inside of the air-flow meter. All of these are simple to sort; use them to your advantage when conducting any negotiations. Oh, and always ask when the cam belt was last changed, too, as this needs doing every 25k miles. 

You might be surprised to hear the VW Golf GTI Mk2 is actually pretty economical, too, especially the later cars. A well looked after 16v, even driven enthusiastically, could deliver up to 30mpg!

Transmission

The Mk2 Golf GTI five-speed boxes are generally strong and smooth, but watch for loss of synchromesh in second gear and the possibility of differential pins exiting the side. You could have it re-built for a small fee to get them bolted in, if required. Also, fifth gear sits high inside the gearbox casing, so if the oil level drops, the gear can run dry and eventually fail! A sloppy change might hint at worn gear linkage rods, too. Again, second-hand units are still readily available, but we’d suggest a rebuild if you’re going down this route. Some firms still offer reconditioned units on an enhance basis. 

Like the Mk1 GTI it replaced, the Mk2 would also lift an inside rear wheel when cornering in anger

Chassis

If you’ve not yet driven a Mk2, you’ll be surprised at just how familiar it is, despite some examples being almost 40 years old. The steering should be precise and the seating should be firm, with a firm ride yet not one of discomfort. It should feel solid and planted on the road.

Be aware that with early Golf Mk2 models the power steering was optional at the time; a lot of buyers decided not to spend the extra £567 and went without, so a lot of the early Mk2s on the road don’t have it. Not a deal breaker but it may put you off if you do a fair bit of urban driving.

Mk2 Golf GTIs came with adjustable camber for the front suspension, which could lead to front tyres with uneven wear. Look out for leaking dampers and warn (knocking) top mounts. Also, tread carefully when buying any modified example. If it has previously run – or is running – coilover suspension you don’t know if, or how long, the car been run on the bump stops, or even if it was driven with them in at all. You may find a well-looked after one in the modifying scene, however, and taking the modifications off to put it back to stock shouldn’t be too difficult a task.

15″ BBS wheels were an optional extra that many simply couldn’t refuse

The VW Golf GTI Mk2 brakes are generally pretty good with discs (vented on the 16v) all round. Replacement discs and pads are readily available. We’d actually recommend a decent performance disc and pad upgrade if yours need changing as they will look identical but offer improved stopping power. The rear calipers can be prone to seizing, which usually means you simply need your rear brakes are worn.   

Interior

While interiors won’t set your world on fire in terms of design, they are equally as robust as the engines. That being said, forty-year-old plastic trims have become fragile over the years. Try to avoid cars with sagging roof linings, cracked dashboards and seats with too many rips, unless you’re looking at a project. eBay is still full of second-hand parts for these, while Heritage Parts Centre offers plenty of new replacement options – even interior material!

How much should you pay for a VW Golf GTI Mk2?

Trying to find an unmolested car that hasn’t been modified is very hard these days. We’ve heard stories of people spending a fortune putting their modified Mk2 Golf GTIs back to standard to increase collectability and value. In terms of what to pay, it’s really hard to say. There are still plenty of projects around from £2000 upwards. Although we’ve seen high-end cars go for silly money, especially in America. Below is a very rough scale of what to pay. But, a lot comes down to the exact spec and condition of the individual car in question. 

• £2000+ Project (Will usually need welding, some paint and a number of mechanical sorting)
• £5000+ Clean (A solid, running car that’s far from perfect, but could be with time and money thrown at it)
• £10000+ Very good (A great looking car that may have high-mileage but has been looked after but is solid)
• £15000+ Excellent (Usually cars that have low miles, great history, matching numbers and have been garaged)
• £25000+ Concours (These are your best-of-the-best, trophy winning, could-eat-your-dinner-off-them cars)

If you love German cars, be sure to check out our German Car Festival event at Goodwood! Check out our event preview here, or head over to the event website for tickets and more info. 

The post VW Golf GTI Mk2 Buyer’s Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Reducing weight is crucial for enhancing car performance and is the cheapest of all car modifications. By shedding excess weight, you can improve speed, acceleration, and overall agility. Removing any unnecessary weight improves handling and cornering capabilities, too. But the benefits don’t end there. Removing heavy interior components also improves fuel efficiency.

Every pound or kilo matters when it comes to improving overall performance. It doesn’t matter if you’re driving the latest BMW sports saloon, or a regular Ford family station wagon, reducing the weight WILL improve its performance. Just how much weight you can lose depends on how far you want to go. Space-framing the entire chassis and replacing the whole body with carbon fiber panels will certainly result in a lightweight car, but an even lighter bank balance!

But what if we told you there was a way you could improve the performance of your car by reducing its weight without costing you a single cent?! In fact, multiple ways. And many of those are totally reversible, so you can return the car to stock when you wanted to sell it too. Of course, we’re talking about stripping the interior of your car for weight reduction.

Power to weight ratio – why do I want to make my car lighter?

Power to weight ratios are everything in the pursuit of ultimate performance. They’re the reason you don’t see many race cars with 15-subs in the boot, and why a nuclear-powered oil tanker with 60,000bhp will lose off the line by my granny on her mobility scooter.

When you’re looking at weight vs power, think about this: If you’ve got a car that weighs 2000kg with 200bhp, that’s a ratio of 2000:200 or 10:1. This also means every single horsepower has to push along 10kg. If you can save 200kg in mass, the ratio becomes 9:1 – a 10-percent increase in acceleration and real-world power.

In braking terms, a small, light car has less mass to slow down and will often be able to out-brake a much larger cruiser with significantly bigger brakes. Handling improves because there’s less weight for the suspension and tires to control. And, if you’re clever, you can also influence balance, tweaking oversteer and understeer according to where you take the weight from. With less weight your car will be more reliable due to less stress on components, you’ll enhance that magical driver ‘feel’ and you’ll get more MPG too.

1) Remove unnecessary weight from the interior of your car

The easiest, not to mention cheapest, way of achieving car weight reduction is the most obvious – stripping out all the old guff that you don’t need. The thing to think about is how far you want to go, especially if you want to keep your car usable on the road.

Obviously the most hardcore dieting regimes, chiefly the ones where you’re looking to ditch all the trim, cut away excess metal and scrape away any sound deadening, will always yield the most impressive gains. On plenty of cars just removing the carpet can save a good few kilos for starters.

Of course, no one’s forcing you to go mad, something as simple as clearing out all the old tools and rubbish knocking around your boot can save more weight than you might think. It’s also worth knowing that the full-size spare steelies on some of the more retro Jap motors can weigh up to 15kg, while a can of Tyreweld weighs next to nothing. There’s two reasons why new cars don’t come with full-size spares nowadays – performance and economy.

Weight loss: From a few kg to a lot!

2) Bucket Seats 

Standard seats weigh an absolute ton especially those big electric, heated jobs you get in the luxury VIP cruisers. In fact, many car modifiers in the US and Japan strip their seats of all the electric motors and fit manual sliders in a bid to shed a few pounds.

The average car seat can weigh 16-25kg so the best solution will always be fitting some lightweight aftermarket buckets. These are available in both reinforced fiberglass and posh composites like Kevlar and carbon fiber. Some aftermarket seats can weigh as little as 4kg and, even with the added subframes, that’s a significant drop in weight – especially if you only need the one.

When you’re making your choice don’t forget to consider that leather generally weighs more than cloth too, just try to pick up a cow sometime…

Weight loss: up to 25KG per seat
Start looking: cobra-seats.com

3) Lighter Alloy Wheels 

Steel wheels, along with the larger sized alloys, can weigh anything up to 20kg a corner with the tires on, and that’s what’s scientifically know as ‘a lot’. Even an average set of 18-inch alloys can weigh over 12kg a corner. So, do your research and be careful of what aftermarket alloys you choose. The design, construction and materials used can have a huge impact on the overall weight. Problems are always compounded with wheels too, because when they’re rotating, this magnifies the effect of the mass. Some experts say that this can be up to 10-times the original weight and, again, that’s quite a bit of heft pulling your car around.

Obviously, budget is always a consideration here, but forged rims, along with rotary forged (flow formed) wheels will always be the ultimate in lightness over more common cast wheels. OK actually, the ultimate would be full-on carbon fiber wheels, but who’s got the cash lying around to pay 4-grand-plus per corner? We’ll just have to wait for those six little numbers to come in!

Weight loss: up to 45kg (4 wheels)
Start Looking: Best Aftermarket Alloy Wheels in 2023

4) Plastic or poly windows for your car 

Due to its complex chemical makeup, glass is a particularly heavy material – handy for seeing through when you’re driving, but heavy none the less. In fact, the glass in an average hatchback can come in at up to 50kg, and that’s why race cars use polycarbonate windows which weigh up to 60-percent less, are super-strong and are pretty much shatter proof. It’s not common with the Jap stuff of course, but in the wider motoring world, a few production cars run polycarbonate here and there. It’s not just the performance specials either, the first to do this was the Smart Fourtwo, and that was way back in 1998.

Anyway, the switch to polycarbonate windows also helps lower the center of gravity for a bonus improvement in handling, they’re also relatively cheap compared to many performance mods out there.

Everything from replacement windscreens to quarter lights are on the market and with side windows you can often specify race-car style vents and sliders. And, while you’re at it, take a look at your sunroof – you won’t believe how weighty the glass and mechanism can be there, luckily plenty of these are replaceable too.

Weight loss: up to 25kg
Start looking: acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk

5) Chassis Upgrades – Suspension, Brakes and more

You know in The Fast and The Furious when they’re designing that orange Toyota Supra Mk4 and saying using aftermarket suspension can save 10-pounds (4.5kg) a corner? Well they were right. In fact, with the advancements in technology, the savings nowadays can be significantly more, in some cases over 10kg can be saved just by switching to a set of coilovers.

It doesn’t stop at shocks and springs either, there are loads of other chassis parts that can shave off a few kgs, sometimes a whole lot more. Lightweight adjustable control arms are also a popular choice, especially those super-hardcore alloy jobs you find on many a Honda, simply because they also do a great job of helping you set up your chassis geometry.

When it comes to your brakes, you may think that big brake conversions will always weigh a whole lot more than standard, but plenty of times that’s just not the case. Nowadays plenty of the top end items will offer quite the saving. Multi-pot alloy brake calipers and discs with alloy bells can weigh a lot less than standard cast iron jobs, and obviously, they’ll work much more effectively too. Check out our guide to the best brake pads and rotors for more advice.

Weight loss: up to 40kg
Start Looking: Best Suspension Brands in 2023. 

6) Lighter Car Body Panels 

Lightweight panels, particularly fiberglass replacements, have been a car weight reduction staple for decades now. In the more hardcore fraternities, it’s pretty common to totally replace front ends, or even the whole body, swapping out all the steel panels over a custom-fabricated, lightweight, tubular chassis.

Of course, we also now have the wonders that are carbon fiber and Kevlar, and everything from bonnets and tailgates, to front wings, bumpers and even complete floorpans are on offer. The best thing is that prices are coming down all the time too.

That said, always be aware of what you’re buying and, if possible, check the weight first. Some cheaper parts have reinforced steel structures or seriously thick fiberglass underneath, and that can actually be heavier than the standard part altogether. Be especially mindful of this on cars like Subarus which often come with lightweight aluminum bonnets in the first place.

Weight loss: anything up to a ton, maybe more!
Start Looking: tarmacsportz.co.uk

7) Lightweight Exhausts and more 

When it comes to standard parts, most are made to a budget, so there’s plenty of areas where shaving off a few grams here and there can add up. Take your standard exhaust manifold, it’s most likely cast iron. A stainless steel tubular replacement will not only save a few kilos, but will improve the gas flow for more power too.

It can be a modification as small as a lightweight pulley set or racing steering wheel. Then again, it could be as bonkers as a carbon propshaft, aluminum diff or lightweight gearbox housing – it all makes a difference. We’ve even heard of people emptying their washer bottles and keeping their fuel to a minimum on a track day. It may sound crazy but it makes sense – 3 liters of washer water weighs 3kg while 40-litres of petrol nearly 30kg.

Of course, if you’re looking for the ultimate in lightweight bolt-on performance you could bag yourself a full-on titanium exhaust. Titanium is comparable to steel in strength but has less than half the overall weight. It also looks pretty damn tasty too!

Weight loss: 200grams to 20kg
Start looking: scorpoion-exhausts.co.uk

8) Get the right electricals

Obviously, most of us aren’t looking to go that far on a road car, but there are plenty of other easier options. Take your car battery for example. Normal lead-acid items are really, really heavy, but these can easily be replaced with more lightweight units, perhaps even a super-compact racing item if you’re not running too many electrical systems.

Then there’s the audio. If you like to hear your music properly, I’ve always been an advocate of a sound system with a dedicated woofer. But, it’s always worth thinking about the gear you’re fitting – do you really need that 18-inch woofer and 4000Watt amp outside of an SPL competition?

Some manufacturers have made a massive impact with lightweight audio over the past few years, and nowadays you can get some serious performance and exceptional sound quality out of tiny subs and even tinier amplifiers. Of course there’s also the age-old option of ripping out the standard system altogether, or fitting a compact Bluetooth receiver instead of a head unit. It all works.

Start looking: jlaudio.co.uk

9) Step away from the fast food!

Let’s just say that one of the heaviest things in your motor is you. In other words, it’s no use trying to shave 20g off the wiring harness and immediately reaching for that second cheeseburger – take this from a rather portly, salad-dodger who knows!

If you already look like you’ve been on the cover of Men’s Fitness then well done you, but the rest of us will probably admit we could all do with being a little fitter. So, maybe getting your lap times down a bit could be your motivation to dodge a future heart attack? Then again, maybe life’s just too short for eating steamed cabbage anyway!

10) Don’t Add Weight With Other Modifications 

Be mindful of what you’re putting back in your car – there’s pros and cons for almost everything. A roll-cage, for instance, can add a significant amount of weight but it can also save your life in a smash. Then again, with the rigidity and safety a cage provides, it’s possible to remove a whole lot more metal from the car – along with things like side impact bars.

Think of it like this, cages always look great, but racecars have to have them because of the safety regulations – some drivers would happily do without them just to get the performance edge. I know it’s a random one, but in 1952, NASCAR driver Tim Flock was disqualified from a race for having a cage made from painted wood – how’s that for a serious set of spuds, eh?

As with any other modification, it’s all about balance, so make sure you thoroughly (excuse the pun) weigh-up your options before you start pulling stuff apart.

Stripping Parts from Your Car Safely

When stripping parts from your car, it’s essential to prioritize safety – especially if dealing with the explosives in airbags and so on. Start by disconnecting the battery to avoid any electrical hazards. Use appropriate tools and techniques to ensure you don’t damage the car or its components. It’s a good idea to label and store the removed parts correctly for future use or resale. Above all else, if you’re unsure about the process, consult professional advice or tutorials to guide you through safe removal of the part.

The post Car Weight Reduction Guide: Make Your Car Lighter appeared first on Fast Car.

Soichiro Honda once said: “Racing improves the breed.” It’s a quote that’s been widely spread about the motoring sphere ever since. The classic ‘win on Sunday, sell on Monday’ ethos of Touring Car racing runs along the same lines, but few company figureheads have so concisely captured the spirit of it all as Mr. Honda. It’s because he walked the walk, he wasn’t just paying lip service.

Do you know how he reacted to Honda’s first-ever victory in Formula One? In a deadpan tone, with a hint of a smirk, he said: “We will not be content with this victory alone. We will study why we won and aggressively apply those winning technologies to new cars.” This is why Honda road cars today are such formidable things. The company works out which bits are operating best at full-tilt on the race track, then shoves it all into its road cars. This is all hidden behind a veneer of sensibleness; but always waiting to pounce when the cam profiles shift into the shadowy VTEC zone.

Type R Hondas are the most exciting and engaging result of this. The ‘R’ stands for ‘Racing’, and this is a badge that’s only been glued to a handful of models. You have the NSX Type R, the DC2 and DC5 Integra, the Accord Type R and Euro-R. And of course now six generations of Honda Civic Type R spanning 26 years.

A Brief History of the Honda Civic Type R EK9

The EK9 was the original Civic Type R, and for many, it’s still the best. A genuine EK9 is so much more than simply a sixth-gen Civic hatchback with a racy motor dropped into it. Built in Suzuka from 1997-2000, these cars used the EK4 Civic SiR as a base and stripped out all of the sound deadening. It also carried out various other weight-saving measures to make it as light as possible. The entire shell was also seam-welded for strength, race car-style.

The hand-ported B16B 1.6-litre VTEC had the highest ever hp-per-litre of a naturally-aspirated production motor at the time. It offered a whopping 185hp, with that marked VTEC crossover point. The EK9 also received a close-ratio five-speed gearbox and limited-slip differential which aided acceleration. The interior sported the trademark details that have been a beloved feature of Type R models ever since – the red seats. Not forgetting the red door cards, titanium gear knob and leather Momo steering wheel.

The appeal of this iconic model to British fans of a certain age is easy to explain; as the hot hatch wars raged across the forecourts in the 1990s, the full-fat Type R didn’t make it’s way to our shores. Nor did it make it’s way into the US. 

Sure, we had the VTi, which brought howling VTEC thrills to the UK tuning scene. It also proved in one fell swoop that Japanese engines offered a whole new realm of performance possibilities. But the Type R was the unicorn; made solely for the Japanese market, it took hot hatches into another dimension. It is, quite simply, one of the all-time greats.

Honda Civic Type R EK9 Most Common Problems

• Weak engine mounts
• Sticking rear calipers
• Smoke from the exhaust (valves seals or piston rings)
• Rusty rear arches
• Leaking rear light seals

Honda Civic Type R EK9 in detail

Below, we’ll break the car into the key areas and explain what you’re getting yourself into. We’ll talk about the good as well as the bad, and what you should look out for when you’re buying an EK9 Civic Type R.

Civic Type R EK9 Engine 

The B16 engine is sensitive to having the right quantity and quality of oil inside, particularly in this highly-strung hand-built guise. Make sure that it’s got the correct amount of nice clean oil, as this should hopefully be a sign that the owner knows how to look after it. Keenly interrogate them about their servicing and maintenance patterns. Don’t be afraid to take a detailed look at the history file to back it up. If you spot any metallic elements glinting in the oil, you’ll need to dramatically reduce your buying price. You’ll need to budget for an engine rebuild. With most cars we’d say just walk away at this point, although finding another EK9 isn’t easy.

A recent timing belt is a good sign. Officially these need changing every five years or 60k miles. However, a conscientious owner would hopefully be doing it more regularly than that. Upgrade to a tougher GReddy belt and you can potentially go twice the mileage according to owners.

VTEC issues

A metallic whining sound may be indicative of a dying power steering pump or oil pump. This isn’t a massive deal, but a good bargaining chip. And once the engine’s up to temperature, find a nice open bit of road and take it in and out of VTEC a few times to ensure the lobes engage and disengage correctly. If the engine isn’t happily switching into VTEC, there are a number of possible causes. It could be down to oil pressure or coolant temps – but it’s something that needs a specialist’s eye. Check the valve clearances have been done, and also check to see if the engine mounts have been replaced. These are a weak point, especially the rear mount that’s bolted to the subframe. They can wear out in as little as 40,000-50,000 miles.

Check for smoke from the exhaust too. Black smoke means it’s running too rich, white smoke could indicate head gasket failure. Blue smoke could be down to worn piston rings or valve seals. The generally accepted rule of thumb is if you’ve got smoke while on the throttle, it’ll most likely be the rings. Smoke when you lift off suggests stem seals, though a lot of smoke when crossing into VTEC would suggest valve seals. These are much cheaper to do, because if it’s the piston rings you’re looking at a big engine rebuild bill.

Honda Civic Type R EK9 Transmission

The gearbox should be slick with no crunching or grinding… and if the owner’s changed the transmission fluid at the right times, it will be. Third gear is the first synchro to wear. If it crunches going into third, that’s a clear sign that the car’s been thrashed. Also, check for clutch slip as these can wear surprisingly quickly. Clutch slave cylinders are also weak, though luckily these are cheap to replace.

Honda Civic Type R EK9 Suspension & Brakes

Age-related issues are the most common concerns relating to the chassis. Both bushes and ball joints will want replacing. Rear trailing arm bushes are usually the first to show signs of wear, and owners recommend sticking to the OEM ones, and a fresh set will tighten up the rear end. Inner CV joints are weak, so listen for any grumbling noises when at full lock, while clunks when driving are most likely caused by worn anti-roll bar drop links. In terms of brakes, the rear calipers have a tendency to stick, so make sure that the handbrake releases correctly.

Interior

Interiors are generally pretty tough, although you’ll almost certainly find that the red seat fabric has faded to pink and the seat bolsters are worn and sagging. The driver’s right-hand bolster is the one that wears the most, but replacement foam from Recaro is available and isn’t too expensive. Also, make sure the seats easily slide on their runners and don’t move back and forth when the car’s in motion. The rear light seals fail, so check for leaks in the boots – some sealant will provide an easy fix if yours are letting water in.

Exterior

When it comes to the bodywork, you need to check carefully; unlike later Hondas, there’s potential to find a fair bit of rust in an EK, especially on cars that have been in the UK for a while and have never been undersealed. This means it’s a good idea to check along the sills and across the underbody, and all around the windscreen – but be aware that you may find corrosion anywhere on a car that’s lived outside. The rear arches are one of the main areas to check, and not just from the outside – you can remove the speaker covers and look inside with a torch, and you can also see part of the inner arches using the rear light access holes. Accident damage is also not uncommon, so make sure everything lines up and be suspicious of areas of overspray.

Honda Civic Type R EK9 prices

Now comes the kicker. Finding a stock, clean Honda Civic Type R EK9 for sale in the UK is extremely rare. If you do manage to spot some for sale, the liklihood is that they’ve all been modified, and some will have been used on track. Now this isn’t neccesarilly a problem. A modified EK9 is a fine thing, and if the owner has been smart with their choices, it should only enhance the vehicle. Always do your due diligence though; ask about modifications, who fitted them, when they were fitted, and who makes the product.

In terms of prices, we’ve spotted only a couple for sale at the time of writing, the lowest being a 74k mile track-used example up for £15,000. The other looks to be a tidier example, with a higher 93k miles on the clock and up for sale at £26,995. That being said, it does have Spoon brake calipers, Volk TE37 wheels and a performance exhaust system.

Tech Spec: Honda Civic Type R EK9

• Engine: 1,595cc 4-cyl.
• Transmission: Five-speed manual gearbox.
• Max Power: 185hp @ 8200rpm.
• Max Torque: 118lb ft @ 7500rpm.
• 0-62mph: 6.6 seconds.
• Top Speed: 146mph.
• Weight: 1040 to 1090kg.
• Price When New: Approx. JPY2,000,000 (£16,500).

Words: Daniel Bevis and Elizabeth de Latour.

If you’re reading this EK9 buyer’s guide, then the chances are you’re interested in classic Japanese cars. The good news is that we’re launching our brand new Classic Japfest event this October 6th. Check out our Classic Japfest event preview here, or head over to event website here for more info and tickets. 

The post Honda Civic Type R EK9 Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Any car can be a track car. You’ve just got to drive a car onto a track and bingo, you’ve already won. Buying a project car or something out of the showroom isn’t the hard part. The first stage, really, is to teach yourself to be a track driver. Adjust your methods of driving so that you unlearn the habits you use around town.

Late braking, wide-open throttle, taking racing lines through corners – all the things you wouldn’t do on the way to the store. As your skills grow and you start to reach the limits of the car, you can begin to refine and optimize things. Upgrading to some quality track-biased tires, fitting more aggressive brake pads and uprating your suspension is a good start. Maybe going a bit mad and throwing your rear seats in the bin in the name of weight loss will come next. At that point though, it’s time to concede that your car’s Tesco trip days are over… it’s time to build an all-out track-ready titan.

With that in mind. Some cars just aren’t as suitable as others out of the box. You have to think about cost, not only of the vehicle, but for modifications as well as replacing the consumables like pads, oil, tires etc. Below, we’ve put together a list of some of the best affordable track car projects that can help you along the journey.

But, isn’t driving on track expensive?

Now, this might sound like an expensive hobby, but it doesn’t need to be. Once you’ve budgeted for the essentials, like a quality helmet and the necessary track day entry fees, the amount you spend on your track car is totally up to you. It needn’t cost a fortune, it can be surprisingly inexpensive. Not only that, our Fast Car event series offers the perfect opportunity for those that want to dip their toes into the world of track day driving by offering 20 minute sessions at circuits like Silverstone and Goodwood. This means that even if you only own a lightly modified car, you’ll still be able to drive on track without worrying about things breaking. But if you want something more dedicated, in the name of encouraging entry-level track fun, we’ve pulled together a top-ten of our favorite affordable track-based project cars.

Naturally the concept of ‘affordable’ is entirely subjective. Some people may have earmarked a couple of grand for their next project. Others will be lucky enough to have £5k, maybe even £10k. While some (like us) will be picking the lint out of their pockets in search of an extra 50p. So we’ve tried to keep this list sensible. Some of these cars can be found for a couple of thousand if you strike lucky, and none of them will set you back more than £10,000 to buy. We’ve had a little look at the performance potential for each one, so you know what you’re getting into too. Have fun choosing, and remember – shiny-side-up, and keep out of the kitty litter. Here’s our best affordable track car projects guide.

Best Affordable Track Car Projects

Renault Clio 172/182

When it was new, the Renaultsport Clio was seen as one of the greatest hot hatches of the era. And yet the recipe was neither new nor particularly complex. Much like the Williams which had gone before; Renault wedged a 2.0 four pot from the Laguna into the nose of a small hatchback. The results were pretty astounding, from launch it featured 172hp, enough to get it from 0-62mph in the low 7s and onto 138mph top speed. But the performance figures only paint half of the picture. Renault knows a thing or two about building a hot hatch that handles well, and the Clio 172 was no different. Its chassis is praised by everyone who sits behind the wheel, applauding its agility, and puppy-like energy.

The good news for us modifiers is that there are an abundance of parts available for the Clio, whether in early 172 or later 182 guise. It’s also worth noting just how popular these Clios are as affordable track car projects. It only takes 5 minutes at a track day at any one of the great circuits in the UK to spot one.

Price today: From £4,000. (Not available in US).

Top mods: Coilovers, big brake kit, breathing mods and exhaust system.

Ford Fiesta ST150 (Mk6)

The Ford Fiesta ST150 has a hell of a lot going for it as a track project. Hence why it’s here in our affordable track car projects top 10. We’re talking about the Mk6 Fiesta ST here, the one sold between 2003-08. It’s often referred to as the ST150 because (you’ve probably guessed) it has 150bhp. This is courtesy of a 2.0-litre Duratec, a big engine to shove into a little car at the time. It’s pretty tuneable too. Check out our Mk6 Fiesta ST tuning guide.

The ST received a fresh bodykit with different bumpers and spoilers. Disc brakes at the rear (lesser models sometimes had drums) also featured, and lower and sportier suspension did the rest. The best part is that you can pick up a tidy example for about £2000. Plus there are plentiful upgraded parts available off the shelf. A set of Newman cams, a Cosworth intake manifold and a bigger throttle body will get you well over 200hp. Throw in a 3J Driveline LSD, a set of KW coilovers and some meatier brakes and you’ll be laughing. Quite literally. All the time.

Reserved solely for the European market, Stateside readers who are interested in a Blue Oval alternative to the Fiesta ST might have to do make do with a regular Mk1 Focus as their base if SVTs are out of touch. Sure, the standard Focus hatchback is by no means a performance car, but we challenge you to find any motoring journalist who won’t sing its praises for having a great handling chassis. Plus, if you buy a super cheap base car, that means more room in the budget for mods…

Price today: £2000-£7000 (not available in US).

Top mods: Newman Cams, KW Coilovers, 3J Driveline LSD.

BMW 3 Series (E46)

The E46 makes for an awesome budget track rocket these days. The prices have come way down, and they’re still plentiful enough on the used market. Despite the number of them ragged to destruction on the drift scene, it’s worth remembering that these aren’t just skidders, they make for excellent circuit toys.

Naturally you’re not going to find a cheap E46 M3. You may well find that the petrol/manual 325i options (or, if you can track one down, the 330i) are increasingly prone to scene tax. But any E46 is a fun E46. You may be lucky and get one with a big engine, but even a 318i will be a hoot once you’ve modified it. There are plentiful parts options available, and a huge number of owners groups on various social channels that can help you. Start with some HSD coilovers and we’d recommend OEM shock tower reinforcement plates to prevent ‘mushrooming’. The throw in a set of Nankang NS-2R tires, and work up from there.

Price today: £2000-£15,000 / $3500-$20,000.

Top mods: Shock lower reinforcement plates, HSD Coilovers, Nankang NS-2Rs.

Porsche Boxster (986)

How brave are you feeling? Buying a cheap early Boxster is one of those life decisions which could end up being the best choice you ever make. Or the most financially ruinous. The fun part is that there’s no way of knowing which way it’ll go. Still, it’s good to roll the dice sometimes isn’t it?

There are a few things you can look out for to help your peace of mind. Most important is a good service history, as the engine’s pretty inaccessible. Check for wet floors caused by roof leaks, as the ECU is located under that soggy carpet. Walk away from overheating cars as early ones sometimes had terminally porous engine blocks.

However, if you’ve bought a good one, you’ll find yourself with a fabulous track car right out of the box. It has awesome handling, endless grip, perfect steering, and oodles of potential for upgrades. Suspension mods can be handled in three phases if you want to spread the cost.  First upgrade the anti-roll bars to H&R items. Then whack on some Eibach springs, and finally (when you’re ready for maximum attack) swap in some Bilstein B16 coilovers. A lightweight flywheel and Quaife LSD make a massive difference. The combo of K&N induction and Milltek exhaust is a no-brainer.

Price today: £4000-£20,000 / $6500-$25,000.

Top mods: H&R anti-roll bars, Milltek exhaust, Quaife LSD, Goodridge braided hoses.

Toyota Celica (Mk7)

The next entry from Japan onto our affordable track car projects list is the Toyota Celica. The Mk7 generation was very few people’s favorite Celica. But that’s their loss and your gain, because these peachy little coupes start at just a few grand. For that money you’re buying a whole lot of performance potential.

The most important thing is to make sure you buy the right one to start with; you see, they all came with 1.8-litre engines, but confusingly there were two different ones sold at the same time. The 1ZZ-FE motor served up 140hp which was perfectly OK, but the 2ZZ-GE is the one you want; co-developed by Yamaha and sporting variable valve timing and two-step variable valve lift control (which is sort of Toyota’s version of VTEC), it gives you more revs and 188hp, which is much more like it. How can you tell if you’ve got the right one? Helpfully, it’s written on the engine cover: the 140hp motor is badged VVT-I, while the 188hp one says VVTL-I – that little L makes all the difference. Also, depending on the region you’re in, these more powerful cars will carry either the GT-S (North America) or T Sport (UK) trim level moniker.

Upgrade Ideas

The stock brakes are a weakness on this car, so the first mods on your list should be along the lines of Goodridge braided lines, grooved discs and Orange Stuff pads from EBC. Or, if you want to save a bit of cash to spend elsewhere, OEM Avensis brakes will be cheaper, but still bigger and compatible. Next, consider some TEIN or BC Racing coilovers. The 2ZZ-GE engines love being cammed too, Cat Cams can help you with that.

Price today: £2000-£7000 / $4000-$12,000

Top mods: EBC discs/pads/lines, TEIN or BC Racing coilovers, uprated Cams.

Fancy something a little more retro? How about the second-gen Toyota MR2 instead?

Honda Civic Type R (EP3)

The EP3 is one of those cars that you can buy for under a couple of grand, but you probably shouldn’t. There’s a fair few of them about still, and a lot of them have been thrashed mercilessly, so the sub-two-grand cars are always a bit baggy – cheap to buy, but you’ll spend a fortune fixing it up. If you’re after a tidy road car for daily use you can budget up to £7k, although good usable ones for track purposes will be between £3-5k. The most important things to check for are a) a good service history and b) a sympathetic owner – because the K20 motor uses a surprising amount of oil, and its sky-high redline and VTEC lunacy encourage drivers to push it hard… if it hasn’t had its oil checked and topped up regularly, it’ll be eating itself.

Upgrade Ideas

Find a good one and you’ll be very happy. These things are simply phenomenal on track! Start with the chassis mods: Hardrace rear camber arms and lower control arms, Eibach front camber bolts, JDM rear anti-roll bar and Eibach Pro Kit springs will get you cornering like a champ. If you’ve got cash to splurge, an LSD is a strong option (although with your chassis mods and a decent alignment setup, by no means essential). Exhaust upgrades are more for noise than actual power unless you swap the manifold too– Tegiwa can help with a full system, and a carbon-boxed ITG Maxogen induction kit is a great addition. And bear in mind that if you want to map it, you’ll need to physically open up the ECU and get a Hondata piggyback chip fitted.

The EP3 Type R was restricted to the Asian and European markets, but if you’re based Stateside, keep an eye out for any examples of the Acura RSX Type S that come into budget as these cars share similar underpinnings and powertrains. Alternatively, the regular RSX or Civic Si represent less powerful but more easily attainable options.

Price today: £3500-£10,000 (Not available in the US).

Top mods: JDM anti-roll bar, Hardrace camber arms, ITG Maxogen induction.

Mazda MX-5 Miata (NA)

Amazingly, it’s still possible to pick up a solid and MOT’d Mk1 (NA) MX-5 for cheap, despite how much of a cult following its got. Aside from the fact that it’s got pop-up headlights, it’s got a sweet manual gearshift, a super-playful chassis, and an eager little twin-cam that wants to rev for days. Believe the hype, these cars are fabulous, which is why it placed on our list of the best affordable track car projects.

Look out for rust in the sills and rear arches, and avoid any car that has ‘DETUNED’ stamped on the V5 (these UKDM-only 1.6s only had 88bhp for some reason), and you shouldn’t have anything to worry about. The mechanicals are bombproof, and there are plenty of tuning options whether you go for the 1.6 or the 1.8. A Japspeed short-ram intake is a good start, along with a Racing Beat exhaust.

With the 1.6, a set of Kent Cams ‘SportsR’ camshafts eliminate the flat-spot at the top of the rev range. It’s also worth bearing in mind that while there was never a factory turbo MX-5,these engines were designed with forced induction in mind as they also appeared in the 323 Turbo – so there’s a lot of aftermarket turbocharging options. BBR are the experts to talk to there. Whiteline ARBS are well regarded, and if you’re getting really serious then Öhlins Road and Track coilovers are the way to go. Goodridge braided brake lines are a must and try some EBC Yellow Stuff pads too.

Price today: £2000-£12,500 / $6000-$18,000.

Top mods: Racing Beat exhaust, Whiteline anti-roll bars, Japspeed short-ram induction.

Mini Cooper S (R53)

Much like the EP3 Civic, the R53 Cooper S is a car that you can very easily pick up for peanuts, but it might not be a great idea. Yes, you can buy one for way under three grand, but buying one that’s priced a little higher with a decent history will be less painful in the long run.

These cars are an absolute blast on track even in standard form, and the thing we’d recommend first of all is to downsize the supercharger pulley. There are various percentage options but there’s no point mucking about – go for the full-on 17% pulley, combine it with an Airtec top-mount intercooler and your stock 170hp will suddenly rise to around 200hp. Plus, the blower will be wailing like a banshee!

It’s not cheap, but the next step for the serious track fan is to swap in a full Eibach chassis makeover. We’re talking coilovers, top-mounts, anti-roll bars, the lot. It makes a world of difference, and turns a really good car into a great one. And one of the things R53s are known for is the pops and crackles from the exhaust. This is particularly true of facelift models, which had more of this stuff mapped in from the factory! There’s a lot of exhaust options out there, but our extensive research found that the Scorpion system sounds the best – as well as adding a few horses, of course. An LSD makes a huge difference to these cars too: some models had them fitted as factory-standard (like the Checkmate edition, for instance), but otherwise get yourself a Quaife ATB.

Price today: £2500-£8000 / $4500-$10,000.

Top mods: 17% pulley, Airtec intercooler, Scorpion exhaust.

Audi TT 225 (Mk1)

The Mk1 Audi TT is another of those cars that’s so good to drive, it amazes us that they can still be bought so inexpensively, which is exactly why its on our affordable track car projects list. When Audi saw fit to bolt in a quattro system underneath, they created a chuckable coupe that would just grip and grip and grip until the tarmac itself started rucking up like a hallway carpet.

Combine this with the crazy BAM engine (which involved so much more than bolting a big turbo to a 1.8T; it also had upgraded pistons and rods, juicier fueling and bigger intercoolers), and you’ve got the recipe for something truly special. About half of our budget buys a tidy runner, and the tuning world’s your oyster. We’d start with a Milltek cat-back and RamAir induction. Then, combine it with a set of Goodridge braided lines, EBC grooved discs and Red Stuff ceramic pads. Upgrade to a Forge front-mount intercooler, and a Revo Stage2 map will catapult you up to about 275hp. Some Toyo R888Rs will help you deploy this effectively. While a Haldex controller can send more torque to the rear wheels for fruitier handling.

Price today: £3500-£15,000 / $5000-$20,000.

Top mods: Milltek exhaust, Forge intercooler, Revo remap, Goodridge braided hoses.

Honda CR-Z

The spiritual successor to the retro CR-X, this little hatchback/coupe was designed with the intention of being the world’s first affordable hybrid-engined sports car. Unfortunately, it fell short of the kind of plaudits that Honda envisaged as although it handled well, its engine lacked outright power and it was irredeemably impractical. But hey, if you’re buying this car for track use, who cares about a lack of rear seats or minimal boot space? In fact, when it comes to building a track car, less really is more in those departments. And as for the power issue? Well, that’s where the aftermarket comes in…

As standard, these cars produce just over 120hp (2013+ models make a bit more, but they’re less likely to be in budget) so to give it a bit of extra oomph, we’d suggest starting with freer flowing airways. By that, we mean a new cold air intake, intake manifold, and exhaust.

Upgrade Ideas

One cheap option is to swap the stock manifold out for the one that comes in the GE8-gen Honda Fit – some owners have dyno charts claiming an extra 5hp or so straight out the box with that simple mod. A GE8 camshaft swap (ECU remap required to support) is another known OEM upgrade, as is the throttle body from an 8th-gen Civic (which is 55mm in diameter compared to 50mm stock). As for performance exhausts, there’s plenty to choose from, with brands like HKS, J’s Racing and 5Zigen all offering performance exhausts for the CR-Z, amongst others. Later down the line, if you fancy pushing 200hp or maybe a little more, you could invest in the Mugen supercharger kit, but that’s a very pricey route to take.

Aside from under the hood, other early mods you should consider include the $350 Spoon front anti-roll bar (aka sway bar), which sharpens up the front end significantly. Cusco and Progress can hook you up with an upgraded rear ARB too if you wish. Furthermore, a good set of summer performance tires will make a huge difference in the handling department as well. From there, you’re ready to tear up the autocross scene.

Price today: £3000-£10,000 / $5000-$18,000.

Top Mods: GE8 Fit manifold, Spoon front ARB, Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 tires.

The post Best Affordable Track Car Projects appeared first on Fast Car.

What Is a Camshaft?

Well, to put it simply, a camshaft operate your engine’s inlet and exhaust valves, opening and closing them at the right moments to allow your engine to run. By making changes to when your valves open – how far they open and how long they open for – you can transform how your engine performs.

Lift & Duration

The two main things you can adjust by tweaking your cams are lift (which is how far your valves open), and duration (which is how long your valves are open for). In performance terms, higher lift gives improved power with very little loss of low rpm performance.

However, you’ll be limited to how much is possible without the valves colliding with the pistons, or causing excessive wear to the cams and valve train. Unlike lift, cam duration is a very give-and-take thing, and while increasing duration can boost top end power, it usually also decreases low rpm power by a similar amount.

For this reason, full-on race engines that barely go below 7000rpm run super long duration cams. But most road-going engines run shorter duration cams for more useable low-rpm performance.

Variable Valve Timing

Many cars these days have some form of variable valve or cam timing, such as the famous Honda VTEC setup. While we won’t bore you with how it works. This means you can have the best of both worlds from one set of cams. A sensible mode for low-rpm driveability and economy, and a bonkers mode for high-rpm mentalist power. Awesome!

Thanks to the way VTEC engines use one cam profile for low rpm use and another at high rpm, wild cams are less of an issue for driveability in a VTEC-equipped car as they can be in other engines. Unfortunately, Honda fit wild cams as standard in their performance VTEC engines, like in the Honda Civic Type R. For most situations, to take them any wilder would make the car undriveable. However, on milder VTEC engines this gives a great opportunity to increase top end power without ruining drivability.

Single And Multi-Cam Setups

It doesn’t take a genius to work out how many cams a quad cam engine has, but why do engines have differing numbers of camshafts? The most basic is a single-cam engine, and this means there’s one camshaft controlling all the valves. On a straight engine it means you have two cams, one controlling the inlet valves and one controlling the exhaust valves. The main advantage of this in tuning terms is that more adjustment is possible.

In a ‘V’ or ‘flat’ engine design, twin-cam means one overhead camshaft per head, with each working like a single-cam. Finally, quad-cam is just like twin-cam on a straight engine, but a V or flat engine has two cams per head.

What If There Isn’t a Camshaft?

Not all engines even have a camshaft; prime example, Mazda’s RX-7. Mazda rotary engines and many two-stroke engines have none at all. On a conventional four-stroke piston engine though, cams and valves are vital. Unfortunately, the force required to open valves is huge, in fact, it saps around 25 percent of most engines’ power at idle speed. Because of this, if there was no need for cams and valve springs, engines would be far more powerful and economical.

Unsurprisingly, many manufacturers have realized this. Development of designs using electromagnets, instead of cams and springs, to open and close the valves are in progress. Koenigsegg deploys something similar in its Gemera hypercar. Once the tech has become more mainstream though, it’ll allow levels of valve tuning that’ll make a VTEC look like a steam engine.

What camshafts are right for my car? 

Cams are all about getting the air in and out of your engine, but depending on how your engine receives its air in the first place can change what sort of cams are right for you. All engines are different – as are people’s opinions of what’s too wild – and you should always do research into the effects of different cams in your chosen engine before making a final decision. Now you’ve been warned, here’s a basic guide…

Naturally-aspirated engines 

With no air forced in to your car, you have little choice but to run fairly wild cams and, unfortunately, live with a smaller and higher rpm powerband when you go for increased power. Exactly how far you wish to go is up to you, but often up to 280-290 degree cams give a substantial power increase, along with suitable supporting changes, while still being acceptably drivable on the road.

Turbocharged Engines

These engines, even from the factory, run far milder cams than their normally aspirated equivalents because they have the air forced in, meaning they don’t have to sacrifice so much low down power by using particularly wild cams. For maximum gains while retaining drivability, high lift but low duration cams are the suggested route to take, and these are often marketed as ‘Turbo cams’. Long duration have a double disadvantage on turbo engines because the low down power loss you get on all engines is usually compounded by a slower turbo spool, so you’ve got to be careful how far you go.

With your average four valve per cylinder engine, you can usually get well over 200bhp per liter on pump fuel with relatively mild cams around 260 duration, which keeps the car tractable and responsive low down. On race turbo engines running high boost, we’ve seen around 400bhp per liter running similarly mild camshafts. That’s not to say wilder cams are not useful, because if you’re building an engine for all-out power or top speed use then super long duration cams very similar to an N/A engine will get you the power at much lower boost; albeit at the expense of a lot of torque and low down power.

Unequal Camshafts

Another common trick on turbo engines are unequal cams, where the inlet cam is, for example, 265 duration, and the exhaust cam is standard, or the inlet is 285 duration but the exhaust is a milder 265. This, as mentioned earlier in the unequal cams section, is a good way of increasing power by letting the turbo push in more air without losing too much low down power.

Overlap is a debatable subject on turbo cars, and often can depend on the tuner’s preference and engine spec. While overlap leads to the fuel/ air mix still being burned as it exits into the turbo and potentially helping spool, if the engine has more backpressure than boost pressure the effect is often reversed and performance is lowered with very little gains anywhere.

Supercharged Engines

Supercharged engines respond very similarly to turbo engines with regard to cam choice, aside from one factor: overlap. Apart from a few maximum-effort high-rpm only applications, overlap will do nothing for a supercharged engine aside from hugely lower its performance at some parts, if not all, of the rev range.

The reason is that the pressurized inlet air and the fuel that is added along with it, would just be thrown out of the exhaust, increasing emissions, exhaust temps and back pressure, but wasting a huge amount of power at the same time.

Things to consider when upgrading a camshaft 

Like most fun things, there’s such a thing as too much. In fact, too much cam can make your car run really badly. The lumpy idle and a high rolling road bhp figure from some lairy cams might make people think your car is fast, but when you have no low-down power and a tiny power band, it’s at best a pain in the ass to drive. And at worst, not actually very fast.

Naturally Aspirated Engines

With N/A cars, especially ones without any form of variable valve/cam timing, you will always be giving away low-down power to gain high rpm performance. So, make sure the rest of the engine is just as wild, or all you’ll do is lose low-down grunt, without gaining anything worthwhile up top.

Forced Induction Engines

With turbos and superchargers it’s even easier to have too much cam. While a pair of fast road cams in your otherwise standard naturally aspirated engine may wake it right up, the same cams in your standard turbo or supercharged lump could make it lose a ton of low-rpm performance without gaining anything on the top end.

In some cases we’ve seen cars lose peak power with OTT cams. As your tuned turbo and supercharged engine specs get wilder, so do the worthwhile camshaft specs, but compared to an N/A engine, it’s always quite mild. It’s often possible to double the standard power on a turbo car with stock cams still fitted, and even fitting the cams from the lower power N/A version of your engine is usually an upgrade. Don’t go too crazy!

Additional Modifications To Help Your Camshaft Upgrade

Pop in a set and gain 25bhp? It’s rarely that simple. Here are a few more things that often need changing…

• Uprated valve springs – These stop the springs becoming coil bound or being forced open by boost pressure or exhaust back pressure.
• Adjustable cam pulleys – Used to precisely set up aftermarket cams, they look damn pretty too.
• Notched pistons – Many wilder cams require modified pistons to stop the valves crashing into them at full lift.
• Solid lifters – Most cars have hydraulic lifters, but these can’t cope with seriously wild cams, so a solid lifter conversion needs doing. More maintenance is required, and a bit more engine noise, but it’s worth it.
• Uprated cambelt – Not vital, but when you’re revving your car higher and harder, it’s a wise and cheap upgrade on many cars.
• Modified head – There’s only so far you can go with cams until your head needs work. From oversized valves and bigger ports, to a bit of grinding to stop the giant cam lobes whacking into the head. It all needs doing when you’re building an engine with wild cams.
• ECU Remap – Even the mildest camshaft swap will benefit from the fuel and ignition settings being tweaked to take advantage of the increase in airflow the cams have given.

Love modified cars? Don’t miss out on our Fast Car Entertainment event series! We bring together some of the coolest modified car builds in the UK and Europe at iconic venues across the UK, like Silverstone and Goodwood!

The post What Is a Camshaft & How Does It Work? appeared first on Fast Car.

When it comes to cheap speed, there is no single BMW that even comes close to the E90/E92 335i. Which is especially true once you dip into some tuning. BMW’s first foray into turbocharged petrol cars was a revelation when it was launched way back in 2006. It’s basically the German Supra powered by Munich’s 2JZ, the N54.

With 306bhp and 295lb ft of torque straight out of the box, it was an incredibly rapid machine from factory. Once the tuners unlocked the potential within that remarkable engine, all hell broke loose. The N54 became the stuff of legend on the BMW tuning scene. Its successor, the N55, is less of an out-and-out powerhouse but it too has some serious modding potential. Whichever version of the BMW E92 335i you end up choosing, you’re going to have a lot of fun.

BMW E92 335i engine tuning

Whether you have the twin turbo N54 or single turbo N55 engine the gains that can be had are huge. First off, you’ll want either a remap or a tuning box, and there are plenty of options for both. This should release a further 60-80bhp. A good intake kit is also worth a look, although gains on its own won’t be huge. When you’re running more serious mods it comes into its own.

The charge pipe on both engines is flimsy and can break even when running stock boost. Once you crank up the power, you’re going to need to strap something studier to your engine. We’d recommend looking at the Renesis pipe from SSDD complete with uprated blow-off valve. Or the VRSF item for your N55. When you up the boost the stock blow-off valves can leak, so it’s always worth upgrading them.

Exhaust tuning

Downpipes would be next on our shopping list. You can either pick up more expensive high-flow catalytic convertors. Or de-catted ones, which are cheaper and will give you slightly more power. The choice is yours and even with a primary de-cat you’ll still pass the MOT on emissions.

With all these mods on board, we’d also want to add an upgraded intercooler. Checkout someone like Mishimoto, this will help keep intake temperatures down. The stock system is fine and you won’t really see much in the way of gains. The one thing you will gain is more noise and both the N54 and N55 sound great with an aftermarket exhaust.

Turbochargers

At this point, you’re going to have somewhere in the region of 400bhp+ on an N55 and 420hp+ on an N54, which is a good amount and your E92 335i will be feeling very quick. You can have more power, but things get seriously expensive from this point on as you’re going to have to upgrade your turbos.

Suspension tuning

If you’re on a budget then a set of lowering springs would be our first port of call on the suspension side of things. They’ll give you a much-needed drop and will sharpen up the handling. But with anything over around 70k miles on the clock, the stock dampers are going to be feeling tired. As a result, we’d either choose a spring and damper combo, like the Bilstein B12 kit, or opt for some coilovers. For the money, you really can’t beat BC Racing’s RAs.

If you’re serious about sharper handling then a set of thicker anti-roll bars are worth investing in too. We’d also definitely consider looking at some poly bushes because the stock bushes are likely to be pretty worn. They’ll make a huge difference to how the car feels and drives.

Fancy something a little different? There’s been significant improvements in air suspension systems over the years. No longer are the days of ultimate lows and completely compromising handling. Now, you can have both worlds. In fact, some air suspension systems are more than capable of performing on track. So don’t rule out the option of air suspension. If you want to learn more about how they work, be sure to check out our guide to air suspension.

BMW E92 335i brakes

For brakes, we would start off with the classic triple combo of braided lines, rotors and pads. Any discs from a good performance brake company will be fine, whether they’re drilled or dimpled or grooved, it all helps with cooling.

Brake pad choice is often down to personal preference, but we’ve always been happy with EBC Yellowstuff pads. They offer good performance without too much dust. Want something with a little more bite and resistance to heat? Check out Ferodo DS2500 pads. Great for track work but still perfect for road use, too.

For hoses you can try HEL or Goodridge, both are good and you can’t go wrong with either one. If you end up running big power then you might well want a big brake kit, and here you can’t beat K-Sport for value for money. There are a whole host of options out there, including from the big players including Wilwood, AP Racing and more.

Interior

Inside, if you’ve got an auto or Dual Clutch Transmission with the weird push-pull paddles, you can retrofit the M3 DCT paddles. If you’ve got the early iDrive you can upgrade to the later CIC setup, there are plenty of companies out there that offer a retrofit service. You can also install the E9x M3 seats if you want something that looks a bit more special and offers more support.

We’d also be tempted by a vent gauge to keep an eye on our engine vitals, with the one from P3 Gauges an excellent choice. You could also stick an M Performance electronic steering wheel in there with the digital display. Although these are not cheap and you’ll pay around £600 for a used one.

BMW E92 335i styling

If you’ve got an M Sport then you don’t need much because it’s a good-looking car. If you have an SE, we’d go for an M Sport-style kit from MStyle. We’d delete any chrome, so black grilles are a must, maybe a splitter up front, diffuser, maybe a bigger spoiler as well. We also love carbon so we’d definitely have a few of those finished in the good stuff.

Beyond that, some carbon mirror caps, side blades and maybe an M3-style bonnet or a CSL-look boot lid. On E92s and E93s you can’t carry out the LCI headlight swap, but you can get some custom headlights from someone like KYCS. You could also get some brighter, white LED bulbs for the angel eyes. It’s much easier at the rear where all the LCI rear lights will fit pre-facelift cars. Though you’ll need adapters to make sure the car is happy with the LEDs.

BMW E92 335i tuning verdict

With prices at rock bottom and tuning potential that’s through the roof, the E92 335i is, without doubt, the ultimate BMW performance bargain. Even with the potential problems that you’ll face with the engines, there’s honestly nothing that would put us off buying one of these (check out our buyer’s guide on how to get a good one). If you want to go fast without spending a fortune, this is the best used BMW you can possibly buy and it requires no thought or deliberation.

Photos: Patrik Karlsson, Viktor Benyi, Christos Markou, Zayne Smith.

Love modified BMWs? We’ve got the show for you. We’re hosting our German Car Festival event this October 5th at Goodwood Motor Circuit. Don’t miss out on the action! 

The post BMW E92 335i Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

As a recovering wax addict, I know all too well how tempting they are. The lure of a new wax that promises ultimate gloss, incredible beading and lasting durability is impossible to resist. But away from the fancy packaging, delicious scents, and promises telling you exactly what you want to hear, how do you actually pick a good wax?

Without an in-depth wax test, exactly like this one, you’re at the mercy of the manufacturers. Every wax claims to be easy to use and perform well, but some are definitely better than others. So, for this test, I picked four liquid waxes and four paste waxes and pitted them against each other. And my test is not an easy-going one.

What makes a good car wax?

I’m looking for ease of application and removal, water behavior and value for money. I’m also going to be testing gloss and durability. Gloss is a tricky one, because, unlike polish, wax can often reduce the gloss readings on a panel. This, in fact, happened with a few of our waxes on test. If a wax does manage to increase gloss, then you know it’s adding serious shine.

As for durability, that’s something I’ll be testing over the next 3 months. Our brave test panel will be living outside over winter, dealing with the worst of the conditions. Every month, I will carry out an inspection to check water behavior to see if each wax is still present and performing. The results will be recorded here and might influence the final order at the end of the test period.

Enough chat – let’s get waxing. Read on for the results of my car wax group test.

Best car wax at a glance

• Best Paste Wax Overall: Auto Finesse Fusion. RRP: £41.95, buy now. Not available in the US.
• Best Value Paste Wax: Bilt Hamber Double Speed-Wax. RRP: £19.90, buy now. Not available in the US.
• Approved: Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax. RRP: £35.90, buy now. $35.52, buy now.
• Best Liquid Wax Overall: Adam’s Graphene Liquid Wax. RRP: £32.99 ($32.99), buy now.
• Best Value Liquid Wax: Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax. RRP: £17.99, buy now. $19.99, buy now.
• Approved: Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax. RRP: £31.43, buy now. $31.07, buy now.

How I tested these products

Each section of our test panel was polished with Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound. The panels were then wiped down with CarPro Eraser to remove any polishing oils and ensure the surface was clean. Three gloss readings were taken from each section using our gloss meter, and the average was calculated.

Each wax was then applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions. An average gloss reading was once again taken for each section. Finally, the panel was sprayed with water and water behavior was observed.

Water behavior after 6 weeks of testing.

Paste Wax Results After 6 Weeks

• 1st: Auto Finesse Fusion – Auto Finesse Fusion ranked second for water behavior in the initial test, but it’s now moved up to first place. I barely had time to turn off the hose and grab my phone before it had cleared its section. Very impressive indeed.
• 2nd: Bilt Hamber Double Speed-Wax – Bilt Hamber, my winning paste wax, came first for water behavior and has now dropped to second place. It was incredibly close, though, and there was almost nothing between Double Speed-Wax and Fusion. Another very impressive performance.
• 3rd: Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax – While Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax originally came fourth for water behavior, it’s now moved up to third. It’s performing very well at the moment, and I was impressed. Could Ultra High Definition Wax prove to be an endurance contender?
• 4th: Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax – I really liked Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax in the original test overall, but it’s dropped from third to fourth after six weeks. It’s still clearly present on the panel, and it’s still clearing water, but its performance has dropped significantly. We’ll see if it can hang on for another six weeks.

Liquid Wax Results After 6 Weeks

There is basically no point in ranking the liquid waxes because they’re pretty much all dead. The only one that’s still doing anything noticeable is Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax. Even so, it’s just barely doing anything. Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax was the only other liquid wax that gave a hint that it was still there, but that’s me being very generous.

I’m surprised and disappointed with these results. All eight waxes were applied on the same day, in the same conditions, and according to their respective instructions. As you’ll see below, the paste waxes are all still performing very well. So I am very surprised to see all the liquid waxes pretty much failed after just six weeks. I wonder if they are just very sensitive to ambient temperature when applying, but I really don’t know.

Best Paste Car Wax Results In Detail

1st: Auto Finesse Fusion – Best Paste Car Wax Overall

Size: 150g RRP: £41.95, buy now. Not available in the US.

• Pros: Great water behavior, decent gloss increase
• Cons: Sticky when applying
• Gloss before: 87.7
• Gloss after: 88.4
• Gloss change: +0.7
• Water behavior ranking: 2nd

Auto Finesse offers no fewer than 7 paste waxes, with Fusion sitting comfortably in the midrange. I chose Fusion as it’s a hybrid wax, so should deliver good durability. It’s the second most expensive wax on test, so I wanted to see what you’re getting at this price point. Auto Finesse says that Fusion is a blend of Brazilian T1-Grade carnauba and advanced synthetic polymers. This means that it will give you the warm look of a natural hard car wax but with the prolonged durability of a man-made paint sealant. Auto Finesse says you’ll get up to 8 months of protection, which is impressive stuff.

Fusion has also been designed with a consistency specifically developed to spread thinly and buff easily. And it was actually very nice to work with. It felt a little sticky when applying, but was one of the easiest waxes to buff off. Water behavior was very impressive, with Auto Finesse Fusion placing a very close second. And it delivered a decent increase in gloss, too. I like this car wax, and I look forward to seeing how durable it proves to be.

After our six week test, Auto Finesse’s Fusion car wax continues to deliver strong results.

2nd: Bilt Hamber Double Speed-Wax – Best Best Value

Size: 250ml RRP: £19.90, buy now. Not available in the US.

• Pros: Impressive gloss increase, exceptional water behavior, includes applicator and cloth, incredible value
• Cons: Not the easiest wax to apply and remove
• Gloss before: 87.8
• Gloss after: 88.9
• Gloss change: +1.1
• Water behavior ranking: 1st
• Read the full Bilt Hamber review here.

Reading the Bilt Hamber website, Double Speed-Wax is described as a carnauba polymer paste wax with T1 carnauba. According to Bilt Hamber, the carnauba wax used provides a deep, rich, glossy, highly water repellent and detergent-resistant film. And while Bilt Hamber is not forthcoming about the polymer part, I’m convinced there’s some sort of wizardry going on here.

That’s the only way I can explain how such a cheap wax can perform so well and outperform far more expensive rivals here. It delivered the second-best increase in gloss, the best water behavior, and is less than half the price of the next-cheapest wax on test. It’s honestly astonishing.

It’s not perfect, though. Bilt Hamber says it’s easy to use, but I disagree. It’s very sensitive the applicator being overloaded, and quickly becomes sticky. It also feels a little grabby on removal. Other waxes here are nicer to use. But it’s the tiniest and only complaint I can muster. If it lives up to its promise of durability, Bilt Hamber Double Speed-Wax will walk this test.

3rd: Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax – Approved

Size: 120g RRP: £47.89, buy now.

• Pros: Very nice to apply and remove, exceptionally slick, includes applicator and cloth
• Cons: Expensive, poor gloss results
• Gloss before: 88
• Gloss after: 87.5
• Gloss change: -0.5
• Water behavior ranking: 4th

Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax certainly impresses when you read its credentials, and Autoglym describes this as its finest wax. An evolution of the first-generation UHD Wax, this new formula has been designed to deliver the ultimate mirror-like shine, providing more detail, depth and durability. It’s meant to be easier to apply and buff while also generating an even deeper shine.

It’s the most expensive wax on test, but it also delivers a very upmarket experience. The packaging, the jar, the applicator – it all looks and feels suitably luxurious. Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax was the nicest wax to use in this test. It was lovely and easy to apply and buffed off like a dream, so it definitely delivers on that front. This wax also felt very slick to the touch.

However, it couldn’t muster decent gloss numbers, delivering a negative result, which was both surprising and disappointing. It also placed last out of the paste waxes in the water behavior test. Though it was extremely close between this and Meguiar’s. There’s still a chance for redemption with the durability testing, but Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax proved to be disappointing, especially at this price point.

4th: Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax – Approved

Size: 8oz (226g) RRP: £35.90, buy now. $35.52, buy now.

• Pros: Nice to apply and remove, can be used in direct sun, very impressive gloss increase, includes applicator and cloth
• Cons: Not much
• Gloss before: 86.7
• Gloss after: 88.2
• Gloss change: +1.5
• Water behavior ranking: 3rd
• Read the full Meguiar’s Paste Wax review here.

Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax features a synthetic wax blend for maximum performance. Meguiar’s has refined the formula for enhanced durability and a glossier finish. Hydrophobic Polymer Technology increases surface tension for relentless water beading, and Meguiar’s says it’s also easy to apply and remove, even in direct sun. I have to say that this is one of the few waxes on test that really lived up to all the marketing hype.

First of all, it was very nice to use. It was lovely to apply, and very easy to remove. It also delivered the most impressive gloss increase of any wax in the entire test. And third overall out of all waxes tested for water behavior is an impressive result. The fact that you can use it in direct sun is also a welcome bonus. The only thing holding it back is the price, but Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax is an excellent car wax.

Best Liquid Car Wax Results In detail

Adam’s Graphene Liquid Wax – Best Liquid Wax Overall

Size: 16 fl. oz (473ml) RRP: $32.99, buy now (£24.99).

• Pros: Very easy to use, extremely slick, good increase in gloss
• Cons: Poor water behavior
• Gloss before: 87.7
• Gloss after: 88.9
• Gloss change: +1.2
• Water behavior ranking: 7th
• Read the full review on Adam’s wax here. 

After ceramic came graphene, and Adam’s is one of the companies to jump on the trend. Its Graphene Liquid Wax incorporates the benefits of graphene in an easy-to-apply liquid form. As a coating, graphene is claimed to have numerous benefits over ceramic. These include greater durability, a higher water contact angle, and being less prone to water-spotting and etching. So what about when a wax is infused with graphene?

According to Adam’s, Graphene Liquid Wax is designed to refresh and rejuvenate paintwork. It also utilizes the same reduced graphene-oxide ceramic resins within its graphene coating products to seal your paint and make your car more maintenance-friendly. It promises an easy on, easy off application, will fill minor imperfections, and swirls, and removes light oxidation.

Adam’s Graphene Liquid Wax certainly impressed me in terms of application. It went on very nicely and was very easy to remove. Its filling and mild correction properties no doubt are what helped it deliver an impressive increase in gloss. You can’t argue with a wax that does so much. It was also incredibly slick, with the gloss meter hanging on for dear life on the paintwork. I was surprised at how disappointing the water behavior was, though. Beading was minimal, and sheeting was slow, so I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Adam’s also promises 4-6 months of durability, so we’ll see about that, too. But even with some shortcomings, it’s my favorite liquid wax here. It’s lovely to use and delivers impressive results. A solid win for Adam’s Graphene Liquid Wax.

Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax – Approved

Size: 16 fl. oz (473ml) RRP: £31.43, buy now. $31.07, buy now.

• Pros: Best water behavior of any liquid wax on test
• Cons: A little pricey
• Gloss before: 88.4
• Gloss after: 88.6
• Gloss change: +0.2
• Water behavior ranking: 5th
• Read the full liquid wax review here.

With a graphene wax on the test, I had to throw something ceramic into the mix. Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax was my choice here, and it’s an impressive-sounding offering. It contains Hybrid Si02 technology, which Meguiar’s says seals the paint for long-lasting protection and delivers extreme water beading. Meguiar’s says it’s ceramic made easy, which is stretching the truth a little. But what you get is a ceramic-infused liquid wax that has been designed to last. We’ll see how durable it proves, but I can certainly say it delivers in terms of water behavior.

Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax delivered the most impressive water behavior of any of the liquid waxes on test. There was more sheeting than beading, and it was significantly better than any of the other liquid waxes here. It’s a little pricey and delivered the smallest gloss increase among the liquid waxes, but that water behavior is too impressive to ignore.

Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax – Best Value Liquid Wax

Size: 16 fl. oz (473ml) RRP: £17.99, buy now. $19.99, buy now.

• Pros: Very good value for money
• Cons: Sticky when applying, poor water behavior
• Gloss before: 87.7
• Gloss after: 88
• Gloss change: +0.3
• Water behavior ranking: 6th
• Read the full review on Mother’s wax here. 

From Mothers, we have a simple, old-school wax offering. Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax delivers exactly what it says on the bottle. It’s made with the finest Brazilian number one yellow carnauba. Mothers says it delivers superior shine and protection, with richness and depth. In my test, it was just a pretty average liquid wax. Application and removal were so-so, with this wax feeling rather sticky.

The gloss meter just about managed to register a tiny increase in gloss. Carnauba wax is meant to deliver a rich, warm finish, so you might see that on red paint, for example. But my blue test panel didn’t look very different. Water behavior was also poor, with very slow sheeting. But it’s cheap at least, which makes it good value for money.

Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax

Size: 16 fl. oz (473ml) RRP: £23.95, buy now. $19.97, buy now.

• Pros: Can be used in direct sun and on wet paintwork, tasty banana scent
• Cons: Non-existent water behavior
• Gloss before: 88.2
• Gloss after: 88.6
• Gloss change: +0.4
• Water behavior ranking: 8th
• Read the full Chemical Guys wax review here. 

Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax always seems to be getting rave reviews, so I was keen to see how it would perform. Even if durability wasn’t going to be great, I was hoping for good gloss and a nice waxing experience. Chemical Guys says that Butter Wet Wax melts into the paint like butter, delivering a deep, wet look in minutes. Butter Wet Wax uses Brazilian carnauba and features a wipe-on, wipe-off formula. The company also says that you can use it to lightly cleanse paintwork, and wax and dry a wet car at the same time.

Butter Wet Wax has a lovely banana scent, and I would have been disappointed if it didn’t, based on the color. It felt a bit sticky in terms of both application and removal, though. It did manage to deliver an increase in gloss, though. But it placed last in the water behavior test. There was no beading or sheeting, and the water just sat in its test square. I wondered if I’d actually forgotten to apply any wax, but it was definitely there. I don’t know how to explain it, but it was disappointing to see. As first impressions go, Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax made a disappointing one all-round.

Car Wax FAQs

What Does Car Wax Actually Do?

On an un-prepped, unpolished surface, car wax will help to enhance gloss. However, car wax has plenty more to offer. Car wax adds a layer of protection to your paint that helps repel water, resists UV rays, heat, and pollutants and helps prevent oxidation. It also makes it harder for dirt to stick to the surface, helping to keep your car cleaner for longer and making it easier to wash.

What is water beading and sheeting?

Different waxes display different water behavior. Some give you beading, which is where you get beautiful little droplets of water on the surface of your paint. Others sheet, which means the water runs off the surface rapidly. Beading looks pretty, but sheeting is ultimately more useful. In fact, water beads can actually cause water spotting if the sun comes out and dries them, as they will leave behind mineral content.

Which car wax is best, liquid or paste?

Traditionally, liquid waxes were seen as being best for ease of application, while paste waxes were longer lasting. These days, it comes down to what the wax is made of. An old-fashioned carnauba paste wax will be massively outperformed by a synthetic liquid sealant all day long, for example. So what matters is the wax itself, not whether it’s a liquid or a paste.

What are the negatives of car wax?

In truth, there isn’t really a downside to car wax. After all, the wax protects your paintwork. The only thing we will say is that some car waxed can be difficult to apply evenly and will require more effort to apply. Alongside that, no car wax will last longer than a few months, so the process will need to repeated throughout the year. Other than that, car wax is a brilliant addition to your car detailing process.

Relevant content:

• How To Wax A Car Properly
• What Is The Difference Between Car Polish & Wax?
• How Often Should You Apply Car Wax?

If you’re reading this, then the chances are you not only love cars, but you love modified cars, too. But did you know we host car events throughout the year? Be sure to check out our Fast Car events page to find out what we’ve got coming up next. Don’t miss out on the action! 

The post Best Car Wax In 2024 For Paint Protection appeared first on Fast Car.

So you’ve all heard about VIP Style, Liberty Walk and RWB wide arch builds, Bosozoku gang cars and their love of drifting. But, that’s only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Japanese car culture and sub-cultures. They have trends on trends, so here are the main big ones, plus a few of the more obscure ones.

Drifting

These days, drifting is a worldwide phenomenon, having gone from being part of the underground Japanese car sub-cultures to a sport with enough credence to have its own highly-professional competitions. However, while the Americans and Europeans have really taken to drifting over the past two decades, its roots are firmly entrenched in Japan.

I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you, but drifting is essentially the art of hanging the rear end of your car out and sliding around corners in a controlled manner. It’s not the fastest way to get round a course, but it’s certainly spectacular and there’s plenty of fun to be had while doing it. It’s not easy, either. Learning to drift well takes real craft, and as such, some of the cars used at the highest level are true feats of aftermarket engineering. I mean, just check out the builds used in Formula Drift or D1 GP.

That said, drifting is something that anyone with a rear-wheel drive car could theoretically do, meaning that the grassroots scene is absolutely massive. There’s still a street-based underworld for Japan’s drifters to take part in if you look hard enough to find it, but that’s a lot rarer to come across than it used to be. Instead, amateur drifters more often flock to places like the hallowed ground of Ebisu where they can burn rubber in a controlled environment. That’s not to say things always go smoothly though…

Touge

Like drifting, touge is a practice which has extended beyond Japan’s borders, albeit in not quite such a widespread and formal manner. The name reflects the environment in which the racing usually takes place; namely narrow, twisty mountain roads. If you’ve ever watched Initial D or the touge battles on Best MOTORing, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.

The idea behind touge is that two cars face-off in a round of heats. On the first run, ‘Car A’ will lead ‘Car B’. If by the end of the course Car A has eked out a notable gap to Car B, then Car A will be deemed the winner. However, if Car B manages to stay within a close striking range or even manages to overtake Car A, then Car B will win that round. Next, the two drivers will swap chase and lead roles. If that results in a deadlock, the drivers can opt for a third deciding round with the roles swapped once again. In fact, since touge is rarely a regulated sport, drivers can choose whatever rules they fancy, but the most common format is the one I’ve described.

Now, you might be thinking, “If this is unregulated and takes place on mountain roads, surely it’s illegal?”, and you would be right. Touge events not held on public roads do exist, but they’re much harder to find compared to drift days. So, whereas drifting has risen beyond its underground roots, the same can’t really be said of touge competitions. Certainly not to the same scale, at least.

VIP Builds

As the story goes, Japan’s highest-ranking criminal gangsters are the inspiration for the VIP sub-culture. Known as Yakuza, these dangerous men would often be chauffeured around the country in darkly-colored, luxury domestic sedans. While the exterior of their cars often had a subtle formidableness to them, the interiors were as luxurious as you’d expect of infamous professional criminals. This combination was something that the Japanese car community took note of, and understandably deemed to be quite cool. From there, the VIP sub-genre emerged.

Of course, modern VIP-style cars aren’t exactly comparable to what the Yakuza would’ve been driving about in. Owners of VIP cars (presumably) don’t need to keep quite such a low profile, meaning that it’s common for the imposing aesthetics to be ramped up a notch. And as for the interiors, the possibilities are practically limitless. Here in the UK, I recently saw an old Lexus LS VIP build with a small chandelier and wine rack in the back!

Over time, VIP cars have become more globally recognized as an automotive sub-culture, so if you’d like to have a go at building one, check out our shortlist of the best VIP-style project cars you can buy.

Kanjozoku

A multi-decade-long phenomenon, kanjo racing is all about competing in packs during the dead of night on Japan’s elevated highway loops. It goes without saying that this is a highly-illegal sub-culture in the Japanese car scene, but that hasn’t made it any less popular over the many decades that it’s gone on for. Usually equipped with masks to protect their identities, the Kanjozoku are most prominent in Osaka, and almost exclusively race highly-tuned EF-, EG-, and EK-generation Civics. Unafraid to keep their races secret, there’s plenty of kanjo action to be found in videos online, including run-ins with local police.

In many ways, it’s not too much of a stretch to consider the Kanjozoku as a rowdier, more rule-less version of the mythical Midnight Club. When talking about street racing, considerations for public safety can only be spoken about in relative terms, but it’s fair to say that the tighter, twistier routes preferred by the Kanjozoku are riskier than the wide open Wangan highways chosen by the Midnight Club before its demise.

Of course, you don’t have to be a daredevil on public roads to appreciate the kanjo style of build. Incredibly raw as a driving experience, kanjo Civics are loud, rapid pocket-rockets, and have become a fairly popular template for build projects internationally. Here’s a feature article we did on a pair of UK-based kanjo Civics from a little while back.

Itasha

A particularly divisive Japanese car sub-culture, the word ‘Itasha’ loosely translates to ‘painful’ or ‘cringeworthy’. Not exactly the most appealing description, granted, but there are plenty of folks out there who dress their cars in Itasha liveries with pride. Essentially, the idea is that car owners will incorporate their favorite anime characters into the exterior design of their car, simply as a way of representing their combined passions.

Some Itasha designs are incredibly well put-together with intricate artistic quality, whereas others are a bit more rudimentary. In fact, if you take a wrong turn down towards the sleezier end of the sub-culture, they can become downright pornographic. But in 90% of cases, it’s a harmless bit of fun. This style of build certainly isn’t for everyone though…

Time Attack

By no means a sub-culture that’s specific to Japan, time attack is nonetheless incredibly popular there. In fact, one of the most famous time attack locations is the Japanese Tsukuba circuit.

The goal behind time attack is very simple: lap a closed course as quickly as possible. In their quest for the quickest possible lap times, time attack drivers will often resort to some absolutely wild aero to achieve the requisite amount of downforce alongside their car’s highly-tuned engines. So, it’s just as well that the professional competition cars don’t need to be road legal. In fact, there are often different vehicle classes at official time attack events, ensuring that builds of similar capabilities are competing against each other. This hierarchical tier system that underpins the time attack culture also helps to ensure that a strong grassroots level for less extreme cars thrives in Japan, and around the world.

Kyusha cars

It may just be the Japanese term for classic car, but it’s one that has come to describe the whole scene that surrounds older metal from the land of the rising sun. Screw keeping cars pristine and period correct, the Japanese embrace tuning, resto-modding and evolving old rides to take full advantage of the amazing products that keep being developed to maintain precious heirlooms form yesteryear.

It’s a great demonstration of supply and demand, people want more and more bits and pieces and the industry continues to respond allowing them to do things that were absolutely impossible back in the day. Fairlady Zs, Skylines, 510s, RX-3, Laurels, Corollas you name it there is so much you can do, from custom work and engine swaps to complete ground up restoration with enthusiasts spending a ton of money to create the perfect interpretation of the car they always wanted when they were younger.

This continues to be the fastest growing slice of Japanese car culture and we can see why.

Kaido racers

As Japanese as sushi, onigiri and a chilled glass of saké, Kaido Racers are often misunderstood by quick-to-judge Westerners. Yes in its most extreme forms it’s all a bit silly and all done for a good laugh, but there are also more sedate interpretations all done to emulate in an almost caricature-like way the first Japanese racecars that began enticing interest form people into the world of motorsports.

Exaggerated “deppa” front lips and various takes on rear spoilers can join all sorts of other body mods like pumped fenders or flares and wild paint jobs, in most of the cases DIY jobbies done at the back of the house with your mates over copious servings of beer. A true Kaido Racer is then finished off with the takeyari “bamboo spear” long exhausts that shoot up into the air, there to make the engine’s sounds as obnoxious as possible. Throw in vintage 14-inch JDM wheels with stretched tires and you have the style nailed down to perfection.

Any car can be turned into a Kaido Racer, but most popular subjects include Toyota Cresta, Soarers, Mark IIs and Nissan Glorias, Cedrics and at times even Skylines.

Shakotan cars

The best way to describe the Shakotan “lowered body” style is a Kaido Racer built with far more taste. The basics are still there, very low ride height and the obligatory JDM vintage rims – the rarer the better – shod with stretched rubber.

But, there’s an exception, it’s all a lot more polished, often with custom flares sculpted into the fenders to get that hippari “flush” look just right. The bucktooth front spoiler is a must as is a nice and clean engine bay and interior.

While the Shakotan is almost always associated with cars from the seventies and eighties, by definition it can be applied to even more modern cars if they exhibit the same sort of style.

Vanning

Vans are the saviors of Japanese men! When that time comes to sell off your sports car and start setting up a family the car enthusiast must put that love of anything performance oriented aside for a couple of decades. That’s where vans come into it. Offered in all sorts of sizes from pretty much every single Japanese car maker they offer the space and hauling capacity that’s needed by a family, but being Japan there is a ton of options out there to fully deck out your MPV.

From the impressive selection of body kit manufacturers, wheel companies cater to this immense slice of the aftermarket sector with wheels specifically designed and sized to fit things like the Toyota Alphard, Vellfire and Noah to the Nissan Elgrand and Serena. The options don’t end there, most like to run quilted leather seat covers and a massive flip down rear screen, then finish off the exterior with a gazillion LED lights that turn your family hauler into something out of Tron.

Dekotora trucks

Decoration trucks or “Deko-tora” are pretty much the Kaido Racers of the trucking world. Extremely popular from the mid-seventies onwards after the success of the Torakku Yaro series of films which depicted a truck driver going through his adventures with a wildly decorated lorry. What you see is all custom made for the most part, using sheets of stainless steel or aluminum to sculpt a whole new look for the truck.

It’s all then bombarded with lights, lots of them, as many colors as you can manage while the trailer section is usually airbrushed depicting vary traditional Japanese imagery. Interiors are decked out to resemble tacky hostess bars with quilted vinyl upholstery, golden tassels and the cherry on the cake – a chandelier! Of course, no sort of tuning is done to the diesel motors that power them, except for brutally unsilenced exhausts to further emphasize that on-road presence.

Kei trucks

Lightweight vehicles in Japan – or Kei – are the staple choice of transportation of the working class. This type of vehicle came to be after the war to help mobilize a recovering nation, offering cheap to buy and cheap to run vehicles to all. They just happen to be so tiny that they fit beautifully in between rice paddies, so the little pick-up truck versions came to be the choice of farmers, right up to this day.

And as with anything in Japan, as long as it has wheels on it, you can modify it! Aside from aesthetic personalization there are those that even weld up the rear diff and take the things out drifting. Yes, really! Plus, kei vehicles aren’t just restricted to the truck genre, so check out our list of the top kei cars to import if you’re seeking some extra inspiration.

Words: Dino Dalle Carbonare & James Bowers

If you love Japanese car culture, then make sure you visit our inaugural Classic Japfest event this October 6th at Goodwood Motor Circuit! 

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We all know that engines need oil, that’s basic car maintenance knowledge, but not all oil is created equal. Considering how important oil is to your engine, you want to make sure you’re buying the best. While not all oil is suitable for every engine, there are key features that every engine will appreciate.

Generally speaking, oil has three main functions in looking after your engine:

• Lubrication – Oil performs this function by providing a barrier between the metallic surfaces inside your engine that allows each part to operate smoothly without generating heat and wear through metal-to-metal contact.
• Engine cleaning – The second function oil has is that it cleans your engine too. Modern oils contain various detergents that actually clean the internal surfaces of your engine while in use.
• Cooling – Third, oil is also an effective coolant. It does this by transferring the heat away from the component parts into the oil. This then cools as it flows around the engine, reducing engine temperatures.

Pick an oil that does all of this, and your engine will thank you. Below, you’ll find each of the motor oils featured will help keep your engine happy.

One final thing before we dive into our best engine oil in 2024 piece; it’s crucial to remember that every engine requires a specific type of engine oil. Be sure to refer to the manufacturer’s manual if you’re unsure which motor oil you need.

Best Engine Oil In 2024

Castrol Edge

RRP: $24.00 / £15.00.

Castrol Edge is probably one of the first engine oils you think of when high-performance lubricants are mentioned. There are plenty of reasons why Edge is so highly rated, and you can’t go wrong with this oil. Castrol Edge has been designed to deliver maximum engine performance. It offers superior wear protection and superior cleaning. In tests against rival oils, it was three times stronger against viscosity breakdown than its nearest rival. It also offers 10 times better high-temperature performance, and six times better wear protection. With impressive specs, Castrol Edge is one of the best engine oils you can buy.

Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200

RRP: $55.00 / £49.95.

German engineering in oil form, Liqui Moly Top Tec is exactly as good as you’d expect. This high-tech, low-friction motor oil is based on synthetic technology. It delivers outstanding protection against wear, as well as reducing both oil and fuel consumption. It’s also been designed for fast oil penetration, ensuring maximum protection. Liqui Moly says you can go up to 30,000 miles between oil changes thanks to this engine oil’s level of protection. Liqui Moly Top Tec also prevents deposits from forming to help keep your engine in peak condition. Many people swear by Liqui Moly, and it’s easy to see why as this is a superb choice of motor oil.

Valvoline Extended Protection

RRP: $28.32. Valvoline offers different motor oils in the UK, view them here.

As its name suggests, Valvoline Extended Protection has been designed to keep your engine safe. It protects against the main causes of engine breakdown: wear, friction, heat and deposits. In tests, it was 10 times stronger against oil breakdown versus industry standards. It also offers 50% better wear protection than the industry standard. It also delivers superior cleaning and performance, with Dual Defence Additive Technology to keep your engine in peak condition. There’s a lot to like about Valvoline Extended Protection, and it’s an excellent motor oil.

Mobil 1

RRP: $29.97 / £20.90.

Mobil 1 is another incredibly popular and well-known engine oil, and there are plenty of reasons why it’s a best-seller. It features Mobil 1’s Triple Action Formula, which has been designed to offer exceptional engine performance, protection, and cleanliness. It controls oxidation to prevent oil breakdown and maintains excellent viscosity to protect critical engine components. Mobil 1 also helps to protect against low-speed pre-ignition and timing chain wear. It will also help to keep your engine clean and help improve fuel economy. Mobil 1 helps to prevent deposits and sludge build-up and provides excellent high- and low-temperature protection. If you’re looking for an excellent all-round motor oil, you can’t go wrong with Mobil 1.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum

RRP: $32.52. Buy in the UK in bulk.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum doesn’t just offer excellent performance, it’s also carbon neutral. First of all, it’s made from natural gas, rather than crude, using Pennzoil’s patented gas-to-liquid PurePlus Technology. And it uses verified Nature Based Carbon Credits that offset the CO2 lifecycle emissions. In terms of performance, it doesn’t disappoint and gives your engine exactly what it needs. In tests, no other motor oil provides better wear protection, as well as offering superior sludge protection. It keeps pistons cleaner than required by industry standards and helps to protect against power loss. According to Pennzoil, it also improves fuel economy. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is an engine oil that can do it all. It’s also kinder on the environment, which is always a bonus.

How the best engine oil products were recommended

While the engine oils we’ve recommended above haven’t undergone our rigorous testing, they are based off of my expertise and personal experience with both factory-spec vehicles as well as modified cars. I’ve used a number of different oils throughout my driving years and written guides to engine oils and other car maintenance topics as my role as Editor of Total BMW magazine.

How to choose the right engine oil for your car

When buying engine oil for your car, it’s important that you buy the right sort. That little alphanumeric code on the front of the bottle holds the key, so let’s break it down. The first number before the ‘W’ (which stands for Winter) indicates the oil’s viscosity in cold temperatures, whereby the lower the number the less viscous the oil is. Then, the following number indicates how viscous the oil is at running temperature. For example, 5W-30 oil is freer flowing than 5W-40 oil. This is important because different engines have different requirements. Sure, it’s good to have free flowing oil so that the engine remains well-lubricated, but you don’t want it to be so thin that it isn’t effectively protecting the internal engine components.

Usually your car’s owner’s handbook should tell you which oil it takes, though if that’s not the case, you can easily research it online. Keep in mind though that the requirements will often be a bit different if you’ve tuned your car’s engine.

Then there’s the issue of synthetic versus semi-synthetic or mineral. Generally speaking, fully synthetic oil is favored by most cars, and you can read more about that below. Be sure to also check out our guide on how to do an oil change so you can replace your oil yourself saving you money.

Engine Oil FAQs

What are the three types of engine oil? 

Mineral Oil

A mineral oil is oil that came out of the ground and has then been refined to make it suitable for use in vehicles. It’s pretty basic stuff, but has the advantage of being cheap.

Semi-synthetic Oil

A semi-synthetic is a blend of mineral oil and synthetic. It’s generally cheaper than a synthetic and offers better protection than a mineral oil, but will not last as long or give as good protection as a fully synthetic.

Synthetic Oil

Synthetic oil isn’t quite as simple as you might think from the name. There are three types of synthetic oils. The first is hydrocracked mineral oil. This is where a mineral oil goes through a process called hydrocracking. This modifies and refines the oil enough that it is classed as synthetic. Hydrocracked oils are the synthetic component of a semi-synthetic oil. Second, there is PAO, or Polyalphaolefins. This is generally what people think of as synthetic oil, where the oil is produced by chemical reactions. Last, there are esters. Esters are the top level oil on the market and have advantages over normal oils. They cling to metal surfaces, so the interior of your engine, gearbox or diff is coated with oil at all times. This means instant cold-start protection. They also have greater friction reduction properties than normal oils, which can help engines run smoother.

Additionally, because esters make the oil more stable, ester-based oils are ideal for hard use applications.

In automotive oils, the esters are blended with PAO and/or hydrocracked oils to produce the final product. It would work out far too expensive to just use esters on their own. Blending the esters with other oils reduces the cost and produces a more stable oil.

How thick should your engine oil be?

The first thing to consider when choosing an appropriate oil for your application is the viscosity.

When cold, you want the oil to flow well, so it gets around the engine quickly, improving cold-start protection. When hot, you don’t want the oil to be too thick as the flow rate is reduced. This lessens the protection and heat transfer capabilities of the oil.

But don’t just think it’s a case of the thinner the better. Too thin an oil will also lead to reduced surface-to-surface protection. As a result, it’s all about getting the right balance.

What does 5w-30 and other viscosity numbers mean on engine oil?

When you see the oil grade listed on the can, such as 5w-30, the first number relates to the cold flow viscosity (the w stands for winter) and is measured at 30C. The second number describes the viscosity at 100C. Although that number will be higher than the first number, the oil will always be thinner at 100C than 30C (the numbers are on a different scale). This is due the heat causing the oil to naturally thin. Those numbers are not exact points. They refer to a band that the viscosity falls into. As a result, you could have an oil categorized as 5w-30 that is almost the same viscosity as a 10w-30, or as a 0w-30 at the other end of the scale.

What oil does my tuned engine need?

Generally, what the manufacturer recommends is a sensible grade for a standard car that is used on the road. However, when you modify an engine or use it on track, the engine will run hotter than normal, leading to the oil thinning. That is when you need to consider using a thicker oil. In theory, it should run at a similar viscosity to the standard oil in a standard car. Depending on how far the car is modified, moving a grade or two thicker can be a sensible option.

Often grades like 10w-30, 10w-40 and 15w-40 are recommended as standard options. However, you can improve on those (in most cases) by using something thinner when cold, such as a 5w-30 in place of 10w-30, for example. This will help with cold-start protection.

But there are times when sticking to slightly thicker grades when cold makes sense. Forged builds, for example, often have larger tolerances than standard engines. Therefore, a thicker oil is likely to be the more sensible choice. Also, certain cars sound terrible when cold if too thin an oil is used. In those cases, a thicker oil could help.

Another thing to consider with viscosity is what the car is being used for. A daily driver that sees plenty of cold mornings needs cold-start protection more than a car used for endurance racing that experiences extreme high temperatures for long periods of time, for example.

Unless your car has one specific purpose (track use, short road trips, long journeys etc.) you’ll likely be looking at a compromise when it comes to the best grade for it.

What are engine oil additives?

Oils tend to be pretty clearly labelled as to what grade they are and if they are mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic. However, the additive pack is far less obvious on the label. Additives in the oil are very important. They let the oil do its job properly. Here are some of the additives used in a modern oil:

• Detergents – these clean the engine to stop build-ups that could lead to a lack of protection.
• Anti-wear additives – these bond to the metal surfaces, providing a sacrificial layer. The best known is ZDDP.
• Anti-foaming agents – these help to keep the oil as a liquid rather than let it build into a foam. Foaming oil causes problems with the oil pump and can lead to oil starvation.

There are several others, such as; extreme pressure, anti-ageing, viscosity improvers, friction modifiers and so on.

What is the difference between cheap and expensive engine oil?

If anyone tries to tell you that simply ‘oil is oil’, that really isn’t the case. You could have two cans of oil, both that are labelled as 5w-40 synthetics, but one could be a hydrocracked oil with a cheap/reduced additive package and the other could be a PAO/ester blend with a top-quality additive pack. There can be a huge difference in price between those oils. The difference might not be clear unless you have an idea of what all of the information on the label means.

Manufacturer approvals can also affect the price. Often to get an oil approved by a manufacturer, it can cost tens of thousands of dollars (we’ve even heard of some approvals costing over $100k). The cost of getting those has to be recouped by the oil. Some companies list their oils as ‘meeting the requirements of’ or ‘can be used in place of’ where certain manufacturer specifications are required. This saves the cost of getting the approval. However, you are relying on the oil company being honest about the oil doing what is says on the label.

Quality control also plays a large part in the price of an oil. The more it’s tested in production, the more it costs on the shelf. Some experts say they have heard of cheap oil that was tested where it was supposed to be a 5w-40 but turned out to be a 20w-40!

We’re not saying you need to pay a fortune for your oil. However, buying from reputable companies should provide you with added peace of mind that the oil will do the job you need it to.

When do I need to add more motor oil?

Generally, oil consumption is not something to worry about, unless it’s excessive. Certain engines often burn a drop of oil and suffer from no ill effects. Just keep an eye on the oil level and top up when necessary to keep it at the upper level. Forged engine builds also tend to use more oil due to the larger tolerances than standard engines. Oil consumption does vary from car to car, but the best thing to do is ask a specialist if you think you are using too much. A liter per 1000 miles is regarded by most manufacturers the normal limit, in most cases. Oil consumption can often be reduced by using a thicker oil, but too thick and engine protection is lost.

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Alloy wheel cleaners are one of those things you can never have too much of if you enjoy car detailing, especially as you go through it seriously quickly. However, if you’re spending all that money, you want to make sure that you’re using the best product you can. One that’s going to give you the best results. That’s why I’ve put together this comprehensive wheel cleaner guide to find out what the best alloy wheel cleaners are.

I brought together eight of the best car wheel cleaners and put them against each other to find out which one delivers the best cleaning power. These are all similar products in terms of cleaning potential, so it’s an even playing field.

What is an alloy wheel cleaner?

Firstly, though, I wanted to give some context to this piece. So what is an alloy wheel cleaner? Put simply, it’s a product that is specifically designed to lift brake dust, dirt and grime from the wheels. Using a dedicated wheel cleaner makes the job of ensuring those wheel look shiny that bit easier. It works by reacting with the dirt on the wheel, allowing you, in most cases, to simply jet wash the dirt away. For wheels that haven’t been cleaned in a while, it’s always worth using a detailing brush in order to agitate the surface further. Remember, you’ll still need to give the wheels a wash during the shampoo stage, but using the wheel cleaner as part of your pre-wash stage will save you a heap of time.

Quick detailing tip, don’t let the wheel cleaner dry on the surface of your wheels as it can lead to damage to the paint surface. Read the manufacturer’s instructions as to how much dwell time it requires and the agitation process.

Who is the tester?

Better known as Buffy, I’ve been talking and writing about cars professionally for over a decade or so now as editor to a number of different BMW magazines, currently Total BMW Magazine. While I’m most passionate about BMWs, I’m a petrolhead in general, and I love nothing more than a spotless car. Over the years of car ownership, I’ve developed a deep enthusiasm for detailing, and as a result, I’ve tested just about every detailing product out there. I have my personal favorites, but for this test it’s all about finding out which product truly is best without bias.

Best Alloy Wheel Cleaner in 2024 at a glance:

• 1st: Bilt Hamber Auto-Wheel. RRP: From £19.99, buy now. US from $37.99, buy now.
• 2nd: Autoglym Clean Wheels. RRP: From £17.49, buy now. US from $25.95, buy now.
• 3rd: ValetPRO Bilberry Alloy Wheel Cleaner. RRP: From £13.49, buy now. Not available in US.
• 4th: Gtechniq W6 Iron & Fallout Remover. RRP: From £7.25, buy now. US from $16.95, buy now.

1st Place – Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel

Size tested: One liter
RRP: From £19.99, buy now. US from $37.99, buy now.

There can only be one winner of our best alloy wheel cleaners test, that is Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel. It was an exceptionally narrow victory, and there was almost nothing to choose between this and Autoglym Clean Wheels, but in the end, Auto Wheel just edged it in terms of sheer cleaning power. The most reactive wheel cleaner in this test, it turned its half of the wheel bright purple instantly and clung on tenaciously during its dwell phase, really attacking that tough, stuck-on brake dust and dirt.

The post-rinse visual inspection and swipe test revealed that it had delivered incredible results. It also happened to end up having to deal with the dirtiest portion of the dirtiest wheel on the whole car, making its performance all the more impressive. Honestly, there’s not much more to say – it just got on with doing its job and delivered sensational results, which is what you want from any product.

Price-wise, it’s the third most expensive per litre in its standard size, but its five-litre size matches Gtechniq for price. You can buy it in a 25-litre container, assuming you have the room and are happy to spend a large amount in one go. Although that will work out cheaper per litre of usage.

There’s no fancy packaging and flashy marketing here, just an incredibly impressive product that really delivers. Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel is the best alloy wheel cleaner here, and my group test winner.

2nd Place – Autoglym Clean Wheels

Size tested: 500ml
RRP: From £17.49, buy now. US from $25.95, buy now.

Upon initial application, I was left wondering if Autoglym Clean Wheels was actually doing anything. Unlike a lot of the other products we tested, it’s not a reactive color-changing wheel cleaner, so you don’t really see anything happening. However, it quickly became apparent that it was definitely doing some serious work, as the dirt began to dissolve in front of our eyes.

Post-rinse, the difference was clearly visible before I’d even reached for the cotton wool pad; the swipe test confirmed what we saw. Autoglym Clean Wheels put in an exceptional performance, effortlessly shifting some seriously baked-on brake dust. We were left very impressed with how little dirt was left on our cotton pad.

In its 500ml size, it’s the most expensive product in our top four, and at £17.49 / $25.95 it’s still more expensive than the others (just) if you buy the one-litre size. However, it’s money well spent, because this is a fantastic wheel cleaner and one I highly recommend. Autoglym takes 2nd place in our best alloy wheel cleaners test.

3rd Place – ValetPRO Bilberry Alloy Wheel Cleaner

Size tested: 500ml
RRP: From £13.49, buy now. Not available in US.

It was almost too close to call between ValetPRO’s Bilberry Wheel Cleaner and Gtechniq’s W6, but after staring at cotton wool pads for longer than I’d care to admit, ValetPRO just took the win by the narrowest of margins. It delivered very impressive results, and the post-test swipe showed a significant reduction in surface dirt remaining.

This is the only product in our top four that can be diluted, up to 10:1 for lightly soiled wheels. This means you can get up to 11 liters of product from a 500ml bottle, and if you clean your wheels often and thoroughly, you won’t need it at full undiluted strength. And, where the other cleaners either didn’t smell of anything or stunk of chemicals, ValetPRO Bilberry Wheel Cleaner has a lovely fruity scent, making it the most pleasant to use.

4th Place – Gtechniq W6 Iron & Fallout Remover

Size tested: 500ml
RRP: From £7.25, buy now. US from $16.95, buy now.

Gtechniq doesn’t have a dedicated wheel cleaner, but that’s clearly not an issue. The W6 Iron & Fallout Remover put in a very strong performance and delivered exceptional cleaning, leaving very little behind on the post-test swipe. The price is reasonable, and if you commit to the five-litre container, it works out at just a fraction under £12/litre, which makes it good value if you’re happy buying in bulk.

W6 Iron & Fallout Remover is also the only product in our top four that can be used on your car’s bodywork as well as the wheels, meaning you don’t need to buy a separate fallout remover, so that’s a bonus on top of the excellent cleaning power. Using it on the body helps to lift those hard, stuck-on bits of dirt that won’t budge, so can work as an effective pre-wash to your shampoo stage.

Best of the rest alloy wheel cleaners

Four out of our eight best alloy wheel cleaners delivered very similar results and performed equally as well as each other, and these are all good products which you’d be more than happy with.

Auto Finesse Reactive

Size tested: 500ml
RRP: From £12.95, buy now. US From $22.95, buy now.

Reactive has been designed to, in the words of auto Finesse, bridge the gap between a wheel cleaner and fallout remover, and is safe to use on all painted, powder coated and lacquered wheel finishes. Reactive will break down dirt, as well as chemically dissolving embedded ferrous metal particles. It’s good, but didn’t quite deliver the results of our top four. That being said, it was the best of the rest, and is very reasonably priced.

Dodo Juice Deep Purple

Size tested: 1-litre
RRP: From £20.90, buy now. Not available in the US.

Dodo Juice calls Deep Purple a full-spectrum wheel cleaner, and that means it is able to tackle all manner of dirt on your rims. Based on the company’s Ferrous Dueller fallout remover, its thicker formula means a longer dwell time, which improves cleaning power and it contains surfactants to remove road grime and dirt, while a little bit of added solvent allows it to soften tar spots.

Meguiar’s Hot Rims Wheel & Tire Cleaner

Size tested: 710ml
RRP: From £12.75, buy now. US from $6.97, buy now.

Hot Rims, safe for use on all clear-coated wheels, boasts Meguiar’s Xtreme Cling foam, which means it sticks to the vertical surfaces on your wheels and won’t simply slide away, giving its powerful formula more time to dissolve the contaminants on your wheels. At under $10 for a 24 Oz spray bottle, you simply can’t complain when the results are still very good.

Pro-Kleen Troll’s Breath

Size tested: 1-litre
RRP: from £12.95, buy now. Not available in the US. Buy Pro-Kleen Troll’s Breath here.

Troll’s Breath is a pH-neutral iron contamination remover that is safe to use on just about any surface – paintwork, glass, plastic, stainless steel, wheels as well as rubber. It dissolves any contamination it comes into contact with, and it also features a degreasing agent that helps to loosen dirt and grime. It worked well on dirt, but didn’t produce quite as strong results as our top four.

Products bottled into non-branded spray bottles ready for best alloy wheel cleaners test

How we tested the best alloy wheel cleaners

I carried out a blind test by having a colleague pour all the car alloy wheel cleaners into identical spray bottles without me knowing which product was which. The spray bottles were also all set to the same spray pattern on each test bottle. The test took place over one day, using one car, and each product only applied to half of one wheel. Using a cotton wool pad, I performed a swipe test on a portion of the wheel before using each product and doing another swipe test from the same area after use.

I applied the alloy wheel cleaners from the same distance, using the same number of sprays in the same motion and pattern to ensure even and equal coverage and a divider was used during application and rinsing to ensure that there was no cross-contamination. I didn’t use any brushes, eliminating this variable, and purely measured each product’s cleaning power. We also applied each wheel cleaner to a dry wheel and followed each product’s instructions for dwell time. I elected to use a hose with a jet spray pattern to rinse off the products due to the fact that not all users have a pressure washer.

How to buy the best alloy wheel cleaner

The first piece of advice we’d give here is to not rely on how well it appears to be working. Some wheel cleaners are very good at appearing to be working hard, by changing color radically. How much the product changes color on the wheels isn’t an indicator of how well it’s performing. As a result, don’t get sucked into marketing messages and images of wheels changing to a deep purple color.

Next, get used to the smell. The chemicals used inside of the formula make for some nasty smells. Again, one that smells nice or not so great isn’t an indication of how well it performs. Almost all alloy wheel cleaners work better when you use a brush to agitate the dirt with the product. I skipped this step in my test above as I didn’t want the brush to be the deciding factor when it comes to cleanliness.

You want a pH neutral product that is safe to use on your wheel type. The above product recommendations are safe to use on any wheel type or finish. Although we would always urge that you check the manufacturer’s instructions.

For tips on using wheel cleaners, check out our step-by-step guide on how to clean alloy wheels. For more advice on detailing, check out our guide on car detailing. 

If you’re reading this, the chances are that you love cars. Did you know we host car events throughout the year? Why not check out our Fast Car Events page to see what we’ve coming up next. Don’t miss out on the action! 

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Hydraulics are everywhere, just not often on cars as this setup is reserved for the hardcore people. This isn’t your simple car suspension upgrade that most modifying cars will do. No. Instead, it’s for the people who want nothing else from their car aside from it to be able to be dumped to the tarmac in an instant, raised back up just as fast; and depending how trick their system is, adjust the height of each corner individually, and at speed. Do you want your car to roll on three wheels or literally jump off the ground? Well, you can with hydraulics.

What is hydraulic suspension and why do I want it?

Just like air suspension, hydraulics are fairly simple. With these, a hydraulic ram replaces the entire spring and shock assembly, which is the kind of thing you’re more likely to see controlling the bucket on a digger, or a crusher. As with air-ride, control of the rams is down to electrically operated pumps feeding the fluid to the rams via lines. However, all the components; from the rams, the pumps, and the electrics that supply the power and control, tend to be bigger and heavier, so hydraulics are more expensive and harder to fit than air suspension.

The final thing regarding wanting hydraulics is that you need to understand performance and comfort tend to go right out of the window. A full hydraulic setup, especially with the additional electrics needed, are heavy as hell. And the ride quality tends to vary from too low to drive and ultra soft, to rock solid and uncomfortable. There is very little option for a good middle-ground, especially when it comes to handling.

What are the pros and cons of hydraulic suspension?

Pros: They’re fast acting, and extreme height changes are possible with ease. They are ridiculously cool. How else are you gonna make your car dance and even jump off the ground like the West Coast OGs?

Cons: Expensive, very heavy and custom fit only. It requires serious electrical upgrades and they give relatively poor ride and handling. High pressures and hydraulic fluid mean things can get messy if they go wrong. Hydraulic rams tend to be less reliable and resistant to the weather and road salt in comparison to air bags.

When and where did hydraulic suspension originate? 

Hydraulics first appeared as a modification in the low rider scene in the late 50s. This mostly started after a new California law made static drops illegal. At the beginning, hydraulic pumps and rams were salvaged from all kinds of things and fitted to low riders to allow the ride height to be adjusted at the flick of a switch any time the cops appeared.

From what started as the only way to make a car legally low, soon turned in to a complete modification scene based around low riders. The unique things hydraulics could do, such as rapid and extreme height changes of individual wheels, to the extent of making the car jump and dance appealed to many. As time has moved on, hydraulic kits have gone from salvaged military and industrial parts to custom made bits especially for cars. However, the basic methods, components and uses of aftermarket hydraulic kits are exactly the same to this day.

What components make a hydraulic suspension system?

Rams

This is what you replace your conventional shock and spring setup with, and are found on everything from JCBs and planes, to the trolley jack you own. These are fitted directly in place of the conventional suspension, though in most applications custom work will be needed to mount them. It’s these rams being filled and emptied with pressurized hydraulic fluid that raises and lowers the car.

Springs

Yes, we know we said the rams replace the shocks and springs. However, on some kits, be it for improved ride quality, or to stop the car getting smashed to pieces from the shock on hopper/jumper cars, small suspension springs can also be added to inject a little compliance. Not all hydraulic kits run these, or indeed need them, but they do seem a good idea!

Pumps

You need a way of powering it, and that’s by using a heavy-duty hydraulic pump or four. While they work in the same basic manor as air systems, these are much bigger and more powerful. They need to use pressures over ten times more than air bags. These huge power and pressure levels give the faster response, but this means they are heavier and take more electrical power to work.

Fluid lines

No weedy plastic piping and easy push fit connectors with hydraulics unfortunately; this stuff tends to be serious heavy-duty hose with big metal connectors to cope with the massive pressures. It’s a good job too. If you get a leak with hydraulics, you’ll know all about it. The high pressure means it can spray out all over the shop. Hydraulic fluid isn’t the nicest stuff, it’ll do a lot more damage than air!

Electricals

Big, powerful pumps need big, powerful electrics. If you want to make your car raise up and down really fast – or even dance – the electrics need even more beefing up. Multiple batteries are common, even ten or more very large batteries is not a rare sight, as well as heavy duty wires and uprated or even twin alternators.

Beyond this, it’s quite common practice to convert the usual 12-volt car electrics to truck style 24-volt, or even mains-spec 240-volt electrics on serious low riders for maximum performance. The electrical system is actually the most in-depth part on hardcore low riders to create the huge amount of power needed (over 2000 amps in some cases) to make the car dance or jump. You can have cars with up to sixteen switches on the control box for all the crazy moves the owner wants the suspension to do.

Can I just install hydraulic suspension and away I go?

Frankly, unless you own a ‘64 Impala or similar, the answer is no. Hydraulics is such a specialised thing, especially outside the US low rider scene, that aside from a very few typical low rider cars, hydraulic suspension is always a custom setup.

While the days of people using hydraulic rams from scrap industrial machinery may be over, even hydraulic setups intended for use on cars need custom fabrication to fit. Someone very handy with mechanical modification and fabrication could certainly fit a kit. However, usually we’d recommend that they are left for a professional to install. People such as Rayvern Hydraulics specialize in this kind of work.

What’s it really like to use hydraulic suspension on a daily basis?

Not much turns heads more than a car on hydraulics, that’s for sure. However, from a performance or comfort point of view, it’s not something that most would be able to handle as a daily driver.

The problems with hydraulics come down to two main things: weight and ride quality. A boot full of heavy batteries and pumps will noticeably slow down any car, and while most American low riders are big block V8s with plenty of grunt to haul the weight, your average two liter European or Japanese car will massively struggle to get anywhere fast. The other main problem is the ride. Most kits at are too low and too soft at their maximum settings to drive. Then, when raised up, the suspension becomes almost rock-solid, which is not a good thing for comfort or handling.

Is hydraulic suspension legal?

In the UK, there isn’t currently a law that would suggest hydraulic suspension is illegal. That being said, every road car must pass a yearly MOT, and if the tester deems it unsafe then that’s that. Provided it’s been installed correctly and, just as important, maintained correctly, you shouldn’t have any issues.

In the US, things get a little trickier due to the fact that you have federal laws and state laws. Our advice would be to research the laws in your state before you go ahead and install it. Given the history of hydraulic suspension and how it was a way of bypassing Californian laws regarding lowering your vehicle’s height, we suspect you’ll be OK in most states. But always do you research!

What about Citroen’s hydropneumatics suspension?

OK, when we talk about hydraulic suspension, we’re purely talking about this from an aftermarket point of view. For you hardcore enthusiasts out there, you’ll know that Citroen became famous for using hydraulic suspension, namely hydropneumatics suspension. In the aftermarket sense, the job of hydraulics is to lift the car up and down, quickly. On a very basic level that is. However, Citroen used it in a different way, allowing the wheels to move up and down quickly to absorb energy. In doing so, it meant the car could remain as stable as possible, providing sublime comfort.

If you love modified cars in all forms, including those that bounce up and down in the above article, then we’ve got some great news for you. Throughout the year we host a plethora of performance car events for enthusiasts. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more info. 

The post Hydraulic Suspension Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

You might think that all car shampoos are equal, but that’s definitely not the case. Some will clean better than others, and others will foam up more. Some will feel slicker on the paint, and some have special features that make them stand out. Choosing a car wash soap is difficult, which is why I’ve done the hard work for you. It is my job as Fast Car’s Detailing Product Tester, after all.

I’ve tried a lot of car shampoos over the years, so I know what makes a good one. I’ve picked 10 shampoos for this mega group-test and they’re all really good. Honestly, there’s not one bad car wash soap here. But, some are just a little nicer to use than others. Picking the right shampoo is essential as washing your car is a core part of the car detailing process.

These are all pure shampoos with no added wax, which makes them perfect if you want to apply your own protection afterwards. Without further ado, here are the results of our car shampoo group test.

Best Car Wash Soap: The Testing Process

First, I diluted each shampoo according to the individual instructions, opting for a medium dilution ratio where a range was suggested. Then observed the amount of foam each shampoo produced and assessed how slick it felt on the panel. Next, I carried out a visual and physical inspection to see how much dirt, if any, was left after washing. The price and how much shampoo is needed per wash were also taken into consideration.

What To Look For When Buying The Best Car Shampoo

Always look for a pH-neutral car shampoo that won’t strip any wax or other coatings you have applied to your paintwork. Look for car shampoos that need less product per wash as they are better value and will last longer. Car shampoos that can be used in direct sun are fantastic for summertime washing. Any car shampoo with water-softening properties is ideal for hard-water areas. Finally, make sure you like the scent of the shampoo you plan to buy. If it triggers childhood trauma of nasty cough syrup, you’ll hate using it.

Best Car Shampoo At A Glance

• Best Overall: Meguiar’s NXT Generation Car Wash. RRP: £12, buy now. $22.68, buy now. 
• Editor’s Choice: Adam’s New Car Wash Shampoo. RRP: £9.99, buy now. $13.19, buy now. 
• Approved: Dodo Juice Born to be Mild. RRP: £11.98, buy now (not available in US). 
• Approved: Gyeon Q2M Bathe. RRP: £13.50, buy now. $31.99, buy now. 
• Best Value: Bilt Hamber Auto Wash. RRP: £19.95, buy now (not available in the US). 

Meguiar’s NXT Generation Car Wash – Best Overall

Size: 18 fl. oz (532ml), 64 fl. oz (1892ml). RRP: £12, buy now / From $22.68, buy now.

Pros:

• Features lubricating oils and water softeners

Cons:

• You need to use more shampoo than some others

Meguiar’s offers a lot of different shampoos but NXT Generation Car Wash deserves to be noticed. In a sea of very similar pure shampoos, this really stands out from the crowd. Crack open this pH-neutral shampoo and you’re hit by a tangy citrus scent, which is delicious. What makes it stand out is a couple of impressive features. First off, synthetic lubricating oils deliver exceptional slickness. Then you’ve got the engineered water softeners that help reduce deposits in hard-water areas. These help you to achieve a spot-free finish, always a bonus.

You need 2 capfuls (0.7 fl. oz) per gallon, which is an odd measurement as that’s not a lot of water. Realistically you’ll be using 3 gallons or so, which means 2 fl. oz per wash. As you’d expect, it felt exceptionally slick on the paintwork and delivered superb cleaning. The water softeners are the icing on the cake, making it ideal for hard-water areas. Meguiar’s NXT Generation Car Wash is another shampoo I will be using personally from now on.

To learn more, read our full review of Meguiar’s NXT Generation Car Wash here.

Adam’s New Car Wash Shampoo – Editor’s Choice

Award: Editor’s Choice
Size: 16 fl oz (473ml), 1 gallon (3.8 liters). RRP: £9.99, buy now / $13.19, buy now. 

Pros:

• Can be used in direct sun and won’t leave water spots.

Cons:

• Not the most economical shampoo.

Adam’s New Car Wash Shampoo is a personal favorite of mine for several reasons. It’s pH-neutral for starters and has a lush Wildberry scent. It foams up well, and the foam does last. It’s designed to be exceptionally slick, and you really do feel that when you’re using it. It also cleans very well indeed.

The biggest selling point for me is that you can use it in direct sunlight. And it will not leave water spots. This makes it my go-to summer car shampoo. I know I can wash my car even on sunny days, and get great results. The only downside is that you need 1-2 fl. oz per wash. That means it’s not going to last as long as some other more frugal shampoos. But that’s a very minor negative point. For hot, sunny climates and summertime washing, Adam’s New Car Wash Shampoo is exceptional.

Check out our in-depth review of Adam’s New Car Wash Shampoo here.

Dodo Juice Born To Be Mild

Award: Approved
Size: 16.9 fl. oz (500ml), 33.8 fl. oz (1 liter), 1.3 gallons (5 liters). RRP: From £11.98, buy now (not available in US).

Pros:

• Loads of foam and very slick.
• Contains limescale inhibitors.

Cons:

• Lots of shampoo required for dirty cars in hard-water areas

Dodo Juice Born to be Mild pH neutral shampoo is a wax-friendly offering. It has been a staple of the company’s cleaning lineup since its launch. I can see why it’s been around for so long. I can’t place the smell, but it’s sweet and delicious – almost good enough to drink. Dodo Juice says to use between 2-6 capfuls in a bucket. This depends on how big your bucket is, how dirty your car is, and if you’re in a hard water area. How big is a capful? I measured it, and it seems to be around 0.42 of a fl. oz. So you’ll realistically need between 1.7-2.5 fl. oz per wash.

It delivered loads of foam and was really slick on the paint. Best of all, it boasts limescale inhibitors that help soften your wash water. This makes washing your car in hard-water areas that bit easier, and that’s a huge selling point. Dodo Juice Born to be Mild is going straight into my personal cleaning arsenal.

Read more about why that is in our full review of Dodo Juice Born to be Mild, next.

Gyeon Q²M Bathe Car Wash Soap

Award: Approved
Size: 13.5 fl. oz (400ml), 33.8 fl. oz (1 liter), 1 gallon (3.8 liters). RRP: £13.50, buy now / $31.99, buy now.

Pros:

• Foamy and slick.
• Very economical.
• Good cleaning performance.

Cons:

• Smells a bit like cough syrup.

Gyeon Q²M Bathe is a thick gel shampoo that is pH neutral. You need between 0.5-0.7 fl. oz in your bucket, and that will give you loads of foam. This was a really nice car wash soap to use, forming a slick texture that made the washing process a pleasure. Gyeon Q²M Bathe also had a nice amount of foam that didn’t instantly disappear. And it cleaned really well too, as you’d expect from Gyeon. A very easy car shampoo to recommend.

For more info, check out our full review of Gyeon Q²M Bathe here.

Bilt Hamber Auto Wash – Best Value

Award: Best Value
Size: 16.9 fl. oz (500ml), 33.8 fl. oz (1 liter). RRP: £19.95, buy now. (Not available in the US.)

• Incredible value for money.
• Cleans very well.

Cons:

• No scent.
• Not much foam.

Bilt Hamber Auto Wash’s specs are impressive. It’s salt, wax and additive-free. Its anti-corrosive properties make it especially good for washing older cars that might have stone chips and exposed bare metal. What’s really impressive is how highly concentrated it is. You only need 0.17 fl. Oz in a 2.6-gallon bucket – that’s one teaspoon. Which is wild.

Bilt Hamber Auto Wash might not deliver loads of foam, but it feels lovely and slick on the paintwork. It’s a pleasure to wash with and delivers excellent cleaning. Another superb product from Bilt Hamber.

For a closer look, read our full review of Bilt Hamber Auto Wash here.

Gtechniq W1 GWash

Size: 8.5 fl. oz (250ml), 16.9 fl. oz (500ml), 33.8 fl. oz (1 litre), 1.3 gallons (5 liters). RRP: From £9.95, buy now / $11.95, buy now.

Pros:

• Lovely and slick.
• Solid cleaning performance.

Cons:

• Very little foam on the panel.

Gtechniq makes some excellent cleaning products, and its W1 Gwash car shampoo does not disappoint. It kicks things off with a gentle grapefruit scent – very nice. Gtechniq says to use four capfuls in a 5.3-gallon bucket, but seriously, who has a bucket that big? I’d say 3.2 gallons is more reasonable. With each capful being 0.3 fl. oz, you’ll be using around 0.8 fl. oz per wash.

It made lots of foam in our container, but there was virtually none on the surface. This didn’t impair its slickness or cleaning performance, though. W1 Gwash shampoo really delivered, and I like this one a lot.

To learn more, read our full review of Gtechniq W1 here!

Mothers California Gold High Performance Car Wash Soap

Size: 16 fl. oz (437ml), 32 fl. oz (946ml), 64 fl. oz (1892ml). RRP: From £10.99, buy now / from $12.99, buy now.

Pros:

• Smell gorgeous.
• Feels great to use.

Cons:

• Poor value for money.

Mothers California Gold car shampoo is an excellent car wash soap that’s so nice to use. On paper, it doesn’t seem that special. It’s pH neutral but doesn’t offer anything special to set it apart from other shampoos. However, on the panel, it just felt incredibly slick and was so nice to wash with. Sometimes, that can make all the difference between a good shampoo and a great one. And it smells absolutely gorgeous as well, which is a bonus.

Unfortunately, the dilution ratio lets it down. The instructions call for 1 fl. oz per gallon, which means you’ll be using around 3 oz in your bucket. That’s quite a lot of product, which means you’ll likely get just five washes from the smaller 16 oz bottle. As nice as it is to use, that makes it very poor value for money, unfortunately. So, check out our full review of it to decide once and for all whether you can justify the cost.

Auto Finesse Lather Car Shampoo

Size: 16.9 fl. oz (500ml), 33.8 fl. oz (1 liter), 84.5 fl. oz (2.5 liters), 1.3 gallons (5 liters). RRP: £21.59, buy now / from $10.95, buy now.

Pros:

• Slick and foamy.
• Cleans well.

Cons:

• Doesn’t smell great.

Lather from Auto Finesse is a strong all-round car shampoo offering that doesn’t disappoint. Its combo of advanced surfactants with highly-concentrated lubricants has been designed for easy and safe washing. Naturally, it’s pH-neutral, though I’m not sold on the smell – it’s a weird chemical citrus scent. I’m not a fan.

Auto Finesse says to use 2-4 capfuls, so that means once again measuring how big a capful is. My measuring beaker says it’s about 0.5 fl. oz, so that’s 1-2 fl. oz per wash. It makes lots of foam and serves up plenty of slickness with good cleaning. An excellent car shampoo from Auto Finesse. Find out more in this full review.

Griot’s Car Wash Soap

Size: 16 fl. oz (437ml), 1 gallon (3.8 liters). RRP: £8.99, buy now / from $12.49, buy now.

Pros:

• Cleans very well.
• Smells great.

Cons:

• Not as powerful as others tested.

Griot’s makes a wide range of excellent cleaning products and its Car Wash shampoo is most definitely one of them. This pH-neutral shampoo not only looks orange but has a lovely tangy citrus scent too. The dilution ratio is 1 fl. oz per 2 gallons, so you’ll be using around 1.5 oz per wash, which is not bad at all. While it’s light on foam when you get it on the panel, it does feel very nice and slick under your mitt. It doesn’t offer any unique standout properties, but it is a solid all-round car shampoo. Read the full review here.

The post Best Car Shampoo In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Mazda wasn’t the first automaker to implement rotary engines in its cars. These days, though, it’s the one most closely associated with Wankel technology. Instead of pistons, rotary engines rely on rotors to combust an air fuel mixture. As there’s no reciprocating motion involved, the lack of engine vibration makes for a much smoother ride. But the advantages of rotary power don’t end there.

The headline is that you can get more power out of a smaller capacity engine. Naturally, those attributes lend themselves perfectly to a compact, lightweight sportscar. Which is why Mazda was eager to use rotary power in its most revered lineage of coupes. It’s not all sunshine and roses though. Fuel consumption in rotary engines is high. They also require a lot more maintenance due to their need to burn through oil. This has caught many unaware drivers out in the past, leaving the rotary engine with a harsh unreliability reputation.

Without further ado, here’s the full story behind the Mazda RX-7.

Mazda RX-7 (SA22/FB)

The tale begins in 1978. Mazda had been dabbling around with rotary-powered vehicles since the 1960s. After two decades of development, Kenichi Yamamoto (Mazda’s Head of R&D at the time) had come up with an iteration of the 12A rotary engine. This boasted improved fuel economy and more robust apex seals compared to Mazda’s earlier efforts.

With an engine now worthy, Mazda’s team of engineers were left with the rare task of designing the perfect car for it. It was pretty obvious from the outset that a lightweight, zippy two-door coupe would suit the 12A unit. Alas, the RX-7 was born.

The Series 1 RX-7 is born

Series 1 (or SA22 as its known by some) was on sale between 1978-1980. Its 1.1-liter engine contributed to a curb weight of less than 1100kg. Power in SA22 was good for a top speed of 115mph, and a 0-60mph time of just 9.5 seconds. In 1978, those sorts of figures from a car with an engine capacity that small were simply unheard of. Over in Japan, the small engine meant that customers could buy a sportscar while managing to swerve the tax. This is placed on everything with a 1.5-liter displacement or higher. Naturally, this played into Mazda’s hands nicely when it came to sales.

Another selling point of the SA22 was its handling. That featherweight mass, 50:50 weight distribution, an multi-link live axle suspension set-up, gave the car a playful, spirited nature that won over plenty of fans.

A Series 2 arrived in 1981 and heralded lightly revised styling. A five-speed manual gearbox became standard (although automatic options remained), and the car also sprouted a new, shorter gearstick. If customers opted for the GSL trim level, they’d benefit from a rear LSD and disc / rotor brakes all-round. Depending on where you are in the world, you might refer to these later Mk1 RX-7s as ‘FBs’.

The same is true for the Series 3, which debuted in 1984. A higher-end GSL specification was offered, as was a new engine referred to as the 13B (only for America). This upped capacity to 1.3 liters, and as a result, the RX-7’s power figures now peaked at 135hp. JDM-spec Series 3s were available with a turbocharged variant of the 12A. This ensured that the domestic market also had a more potent version of the car to enjoy.

Winning in motorsport

Motorsport prominence helps give a performance car its glowing reputation. Happily, the SA22/FB made its presence known on both the street and the circuit. The car won the 1980 & 1981 British Saloon Car Championship titles. It even took outright victory at the prestigious-yet-grueling 24 Hours of Spa. How’s that for proof of rotary reliability?

By most measures, the Mk1 RX-7 was a resounding success, and that’s proven in the numbers behind its forecourt popularity. Despite the unusual, Mazda managed to shift 470,000 Mk1 RX-7s. As a result, to this day it remains the all-time best-selling rotary-powered car.

Mazda RX-7 (FC)

Given the positive reputation of the SA22/FB, you’d think Mazda would stick to a similar recipe when designing its successor. However, that wasn’t quite the case.

Sure, it retained rotary power and stuck to the two-door silhouette, but the Mk2 RX-7 (FC) wasn’t an all-out sportscar like the vehicle that came before it. Instead, the FC was a car built for long distance cruising, rather than tight and twisty touge runs.

The American Dream

The rationale behind this was the fact that Mazda had its sights set on appealing to America.  After a stringent research program, it was decided that the eighties US customer base would prefer a softer, more powerful coupe.

As a result, the FC received a number of key changes to its underpinnings. The SA22 had its playful oversteer, but for the RX-7’s new touring design brief, Mazda wanted to introduce an extra element of stability to the way that the car drove. To do this, they swapped out the old live axle at the rear for an independent suspension set-up and introduced a bespoke bit of technology known as the Dynamic Tracking Suspension System, or DTSS. In practice, DTSS adjusts the toe angle of each wheel depending on the cornering force and direction that the car’s subjected to.

On top of that, the FC got a new damping system too. Referred to as Auto Adjusting Suspension (or AAS), this engineering solution would alter the dampers on the fly to comply best with the road surface underneath the car’s tires. Like the DTSS, this certainly improved the FC’s stability and ride comfort, but keen drivers became disappointed by the way that it numbed the feedback that the car could give you.

Rotary revolution

The handling of the reborn RX-7 was exactly how Mazda wanted it to be. Now it was time to focus on the second part of the car’s reinvention: power.

This time, the core 13B structure used in US-spec SA22s would become the standard engine offered across all international markets. However, the unit placed into the FC’s engine bay wasn’t identical to the ones found in the outgoing car.

Upon launch in 1985, the FC came fitted with a naturally aspirated 13B that featured new variable intake technology, but a year later in 1986, a turbocharged variant emerged. The newly fettled engine had already been uprated to around 150hp, but the addition of forced induction would elevate that figure to the 180hp-mark. By 1989, a revised twin-scroll turbo and enhanced compression ratio meant that the RX-7 FC was pushing 200hp: quite the improvement over the little 1.1-liter SA22.

Weight had also been kept down to a respectable 2600lbs / 1200kg or thereabouts, which when coupled with the car’s newfound power, gave the RX-7 a 0-60mph time of just 6.7 seconds. The top speed was now within touching distance of 150mph too. Performance figures like these were crucial to the FC capturing the premium feel that Mazda were striving for, while the introduction of a convertible version added a further luxury twist.

Mazda RX-7 FC Pros

• Characterful rotary engine
• Good handling & comfort
• Available as a convertible

Cons

• Rotary engine issues
• Cheap interior
• Potential for rust

Common problems

• Broken apex seals
• Faulty interior electrics
• Rear differential abuse

How to buy an FC RX-7

If you like the idea of refined rotary power with an emphasis on elegance, check out our Mazda RX-7 FC buyer’s guide before you go hunting around for one yourself. Likewise, more tuning-oriented drivers shouldn’t be put off by the FC’s calmer natural attitude. As this example proves, the second-gen RX-7 is a canvas which can still make for a fantastic project. Here’s our RX-7 FC tuning guide for more modifying advice.

Mazda RX-7 (FD)

Despite doing what they thought their target audience wanted, the second-gen FC RX-7 sold at roughly half the rate of the original car. For Mazda’s third instalment of the now-revered RX-7 nameplate, they decided to ditch the GT cruiser vibe in a big way.

Debuting in 1992, the Mk3 – or FD as its more commonly known – signaled a step back towards all-out agility and performance. In fact, it went further down that route than even the original SA22.

FD curves over boxy FC

It was the FC’s boxy Porsche 924-inspired styling made way for a refreshing curved design which really stood out amongst many of its more subdued rivals (think 300ZX, for example). The car’s sleeker stance matched what lay beneath the skin too. Although retaining the more advanced independent rear suspension system, the overall set-up of the car was a much more rewarding one than that of the FC. The ride was a little firmer, but not so firm that it was uncomfortable. Similarly, the steering had some extra weight to it. In these two alterations alone, the FD had become a far more communicative car than its predecessor.

With the RX-7’s handling now restored to perhaps what it should’ve been all along, further evolutions to the engine followed. Besides, with the onset of the nineties, the horsepower wars had kicked up a gear. The aforementioned 300ZX was churning out around 280hp from its V6, while the turbocharged variant of Toyota’s Mk4 Supra boasted 320hp in its Euro/American export guise. Against rivals like those, the engine used in the FC simply wasn’t going to cut it anymore.

Turbocharging wizardry

To get around this, Mazda introduced a new sequential twin-turbocharger, whereby the second turbo kicks in at 4000rpm for an extra splash of boost. Consequently, the FD’s peak power output raised to 236hp, or 250hp in Japan. Admittedly, this was still a fair distance away from the sort of power the Nissan and Toyota were offering, but against those cars the RX-7 had weight (or rather, a lack thereof) on its side. The Supra tipped the scales at 3307lbs /1500kg, as did the 300ZX. However, the FD RX-7 was around 550 lbs / 250kg lighter depending upon spec. As a result, the rotary-powered car reached 60mph quicker than the Nissan, and on a track felt like the more agile one of the bunch.

On paper then, there was plenty to like about the FD. Unfortunately, overambitious pricing put prospective buyers off. Upon release, the third-gen RX-7 positioned within Porsche territory, and that was a battle that it was never going to win. Consequently, Mazda shaved a big chunk off of its asking price a year or two down the line. By then the damage had already been done. The FD soldiered on in the UK up until 1998, but had bowed out from the rest of Europe long before then.

That didn’t result in the car’s demise though. Instead, Mazda reverted back to its roots, and transitioned the RX-7 into being a Japanese market-only special. As such, the top of the range Series 8 cars (built between 1998-2002) can only be imports if you live in the West.

Whichever individual age & trim level appeals to you the most though, the FD is perhaps the ultimate expression of the RX-7. In fact, we’d go a step further and say that it’s the ultimate expression of rotary power as a whole.

Mazda RX-7 FD Pros

• 50/50 weight balance means fantastic handling
• Phenomenal engine (when working)
• Timeless looks

Cons

• Constant TLC means expensive ownership
• Small cabin and small boot
• Can be fidgety at low speeds

Common problems

• Blown apex seals
• Saggy suspension
• Lack of oil maintenance

How to buy an FD RX-7

Enticed by the prospect? Then feel free to check out our FD buyer’s guide. There are also plenty of FD feature cars on the site to give you a bit of inspiration. Or, for an even closer look at the third-gen RX-7, check out our review of the ‘Bathurst R’ edition. Finally, for advice on modifying one, here’s our RX-7 FD tuning guide.

Love Japanese classics? Or are you in just in awe of the RX-7? Whatever your preference, we’ve got the show for you. We’re hosting Classic Japfest this October 6th at Goodwood Motor Circuit, don’t miss out on the action! 

The post Mazda RX-7: Ultimate Guide To Every Generation appeared first on Fast Car.

Quality and Korean cars go hand-in-hand today. For some who grew up in the 1980s and ’90s, this can still be a hard thing to reconcile – that the likes of Hyundai and Kia can have evolved from being the then-equivalent of, say, Skoda, into market leaders seems like an incredible achievement. Time changes everything of course, and Hyundai and Kia have become two of the most significant motoring names across several sectors. And when Hyundai wanted to chase after more sporting consumers, it’s telling that they were able to poach Albert Biermann from BMW’s M division to oversee the development of the Hyundai i30 N.

There were to be no half-measures here, this thing had to be a genuine contender.

Hyundai i30 N history

Launched in 2017, the Hyundai i30 N was a crisply styled hatchback with a 2.0-litre turbocharged four-pot putting out a nice round 250bhp. Serving up 260lb.ft, the 0-62mph dash is dispatched in 6.4-seconds with a top speed limited to 155mph. The handling is keenly tuned to provide both comfort and superlative dynamics (and it’s significant that the N in the name stands for both Namyang, where the company is based, and Nürburgring, where this car was developed), and everything is minutely customizable via the Custom mode – suspension, rev-matching, throttle response, stability control, steering feel, the works.

Much as other manufacturers like to offer up-specced versions of performance cars (and Hyundai were keenly observing Volkswagen’s ‘Performance’ and BMW’s ‘Competition’ here), an i30 N Performance was also offered: power increased to 275bhp, torque rose to 279lb.ft, 0-62mph was down to 6.1s, and it also came with a limited-slip differential, 19” wheels and an active variable exhaust.

From 2019, a new body style arrived – the Hyundai i30 N Fastback. With a coupe/saloon profile, the dynamics were just as vibrant but there was a little more luggage space, and every Fastback for the UK market had the full-fat Performance pack.

With the i30 N having been available for a few years, there are some proper bargains to be had on the used market. While brand new showroom prices start from £34,000, early examples of the model are now starting to dip to the £17,500 mark. It’s also worth noting that, with Hyundai’s five-year warranty, it’s perfectly possible that you’ll be looking at cars which still have a decent chunk of the warranty left to run.

If you want a piece of the N pie in the US, you’ll need to scratch the itch with the Veloster N. Similar performance, but in a less-practical package.

Hyundai i30 N most common problems

• Faulty fuel pumps or loose battery terminals can trigger engine warning lights
• The interior can suffer from rattles and noises, generally from the dash and headlining
• Infotainment systems can sometimes be a bit glitchy, although it’s often fixable by the timeless ‘turn it off and on again’ trick
• Check panel fitment and paint finish closely for signs of accident repairs – some of these cars live a hard life
• MY18 cars were recalled due to issues on start up and power delivery down to loose battery terminals

Hyundai i30N Buyer’s guide

Engine

The engine in this car is a real masterstroke. Part of Hyundai’s Theta engine family, this one is a 2.0-litre 16v turbocharged twin-cam that delivers its power in an amusingly old-school way. It’s easy to get used to the way turbocharging has integrated itself into modern power delivery, but anyone who grew up in the era of RS Cosworths and GT Turbos will appreciate the tantalizing thrill of a little smidge of lag followed by a kick in the back, and it’s this classic turbo thrust that the i30 N delivers.

It’s not a totally unburstable unit, and some owners have reported engine warning lights illuminating which turns out to be attributable to either a faulty fuel pump or, more simply, a loose battery terminal, but if you’re still in warranty then this shouldn’t cause too much heartache.

Transmission

The six-speed manual transmission is a sweet and slick-shifting unit. Some owners have experienced problems selecting 5^th and 6^th gear, but there’s a known fix for this and that’s to replace the synchronizer rings. And while the car’s e-LSD is great in stock tune, bigger power cars would benefit from fitting a Wavetrac ATB LSD.

From 2021, Hyundai offered the i30 N with the option of an eight-speed dual-clutch tranmission. Dubbed N-DCT, it shaved 0.5 seconds off the 0-62mph time, completing it in 5.4 seconds. Not only was this down to the automatic gearchanges, but also due to the shorter ratios.

There was also an ECU recall for 2018 model year cars due to issues with engine startup and power delivery. While some were rectified by simply tightening loose battery terminals, it should have been looked at by an authorised mechanic.

In Australia, the 2021-2022 i30 N cars were also recalled, this time due to an issue with the twin-clutch automatic gearbox. It was a simple gearbox software update that would solve the issue of cutting power between gearchanges.

Chassis

The handling of the i30 N in stock form is pretty stellar – the ride is firm but not annoyingly so, the turn-in is superb, and with the Performance variant being around 10mm lower, the stance is perfectly acceptable. But there’s always potential to make things better, and once again we find that the aftermarket is all over it.

I30 N Performance models were equipped with a removable rear strut brace and larger brake discs, which make for no-brainer upgrades to non-Performance i30 Ns. Given how good (and how clever) the stock suspension is, the only benefit you’ll find from replacing them is with something track specific and high-end. If you’re going for show car lows while also retaining good handling, the H&R Ultra Deep.

In terms of brakes, the factory stoppers are really quite impressive so for road use there isn’t much to be gained from upgrading them unless you’re tailoring your car for track work.

Interior

The spec list of the Hyundai i30 N is highly impressive, testament to the over-arching aim of poaching VW customers: in addition to the superb N-specific seats and switchgear for customizing all the settings, you get an 8” touchscreen, sat-nav, automatic climate control, front and rear parking sensors plus a reversing camera, keyless entry and a handy wireless charging spot. Buyers opting for the Performance variant also enjoy heated half-leather seats and a heated steering wheel; the seats are electrically adjustable and have memory function, although they were also a delete-option so you could have the regular non-electric cloth seats and save 13kg from the kerb weight.

It’s a good quality interior, although there are one or two issues to be aware of, mainly concerning the infotainment system: the screen can randomly go blank, and the volume can fail to fade back up after phone calls. You might also find irritating rattles coming from the dash and the headlining – the former is a fit-and-finish issue with the dash trim, while the latter is down to the wiring for the interior roof lights not being secured and rattling around.

Exterior

The N division’s signature scheme of baby blue with red details is a strong look for the i30 N, and it looks particularly taut and up-and-at-’em with its standard-issue diamond-cut 18” wheels (19” on the Performance). LED headlights are standard on all models, and the spoilers and diffuser are subtle but purposeful.

There are no quality control issues to speak of, so any irregularities you spot in terms of poor panel fit or imperfect paint match will be down to accident repairs – and these are cars that get driven boisterously, so there are some out there with skeletons in their closets.

Styling options on the aftermarket are many and diverse: if you really want to make a statement, the widebody kit from Prior Design is very well conceived and has a proper Touring Car vibe.

Hyundai i30 N modifications

It’s fair to say that the tuning aftermarket has embraced the Hyundai i30 N with gusto too. There are some superb stainless exhaust upgrades on the market, including those from Scorpion and Milltek, while the other end of the breathing structure can be aided by an induction kit from Airtec or Forge. Indeed, Forge are particularly keen on the i30 N and offer a variety of stage upgrades – Stage 1 will take either the regular model or the Performance up to 300bhp, while Stage 2 gets you to 320bhp.

There’s a host of associated mods to upgrade to, including their own proprietary recirc valve, intercooler, boost pipe and catch can. Stage packages are also available from various tuners, who provide all-inclusive tiers to get you where you want to be – for instance, the Stage 3 pack includes a Gen-2 turbo and all associated pipework, plus a healthy remap, to achieve 360bhp.

If you’re into some really serious power, it’s worth considering the X47 turbo upgrade; since the architecture of the stock Gen-1 turbo limits power to a max of about 330bhp, Pumaspeed’s (for example) upgrade has a bigger 9-blade billet compressor wheel and a high-flow turbo wheel to massively increase efficiency, the upshot being potential for power in excess of 420bhp.

If you want to know more about modifying the little pocket-rocket Hyundai, check out our tuning guide right here.

Want to see some of the cleanest modified Hyundai i30Ns the UK has to offer? Then get yourself to our Trax event at Silverstone this September 1st. You won’t want to miss out on action. 

The post Hyundai i30 N Buyer’s Guide & Most Common Problems appeared first on Fast Car.

Japanese performance cars have seen their values spike in recent years. But the Nissan GT-R badged cars have often been found right at the top of that classic Japanese car market boom, none more so than the Skyline GT-R. The reason why is a simple case of supply and demand. For many people, the Nissan Skyline GT-R is the ultimate JDM model, and that status brings a suitably hefty price tag with it.

Known for their clever all-wheel drive systems and highly tunable engines, they’re one of the most popular vehicles to modify, and for good reason. Each iteration of the Skyline GT-R and subsequent Nissan GT-R R35 can claim to be one of the best performance cars to come out of Japan, whether you leave it stock, or not.

Of course, over the years, plenty about the model has changed. The 1989 R32-gen car picked up where its Hakosuka and Kenmeri ancestors left off, offering sports car levels of performance in a package derived from a humble saloon. Nowadays though, that saloon DNA is firmly a thing of the past; the R35 GT-R being its own stand-alone supercar rival.

So, why are these cars so revered? Let’s take a quick tour through history to find out.

Where it all began: Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R ‘Hakosuka’ (1969-1972)

The ‘Hakosuka’ is where the Nissan GT-R story begins. Following a merger with fellow Japanese car marque Prince, Nissan nabbed Prince’s Skyline sedan model. It then slapped a Nissan badge on its newly prepared successor. However, the Skyline wasn’t just any old inherited family saloon. The Prince motor company was a regular entrant into Japan’s most prestigious races. In the past it had used earlier Skyline models to take on Porsche – and win! Happily, that tradition of sporting prowess trickled through to the reborn Nissan-branded Skyline when it debuted in the late sixties.

Nicknamed ‘Hakosuka’, or ‘Boxy Skyline’ in English, a special high-performance variant of the car – known as the 2000 GT-R – arrived in 1969. The idea was simple. Build a vehicle that was at home on both the city streets of Saitama, and at Suzuka race circuit.

To achieve this, Nissan turned to a man named Shinichiro Sakurai. Sakurai-san had led the development of a Prince racecar know as the R380. Unheard of over here, the R380 was a coupe-style prototype that won the 1966 Japanese Grand Prix. I guess you could think of it as Japan’s answer to the Ford GT40. Nissan decided that the same 2.0-litre straight-six from the R380 should go in the Skyline GT-R. So, who better to task with the job than the man who originally designed it? A detuned engine made its way into the road car, but the rest, as they say, is history.

In stock form, the Hakosuka GT-R’s ‘S20’ engine redlined at 7500rpm. It kicked out 170hp, which felt rather lively in 1100kg car in 1969. What’s more, it also featured a five-speed manual gearbox and rotor brakes (rather than drums) at the front – all of which was rather high-tech for the late 1960s.

The GT-R Coupé arrives

Then, in 1971, the GT-R’s four-door silhouette switched to a two-door coupe body style. These new and improved cars came equipped with wider tires, a wider track width, and shorter wheelbase. On top of that, a boot lid spoiler came as standard too. These evolutions helped the GT-R to maintain its early dominance on the race circuit. This culminated in more than 30 consecutive race wins over an 18-month period.

Naturally, sales on dealer forecourts followed these sporting successes. However, still only around 2000 examples of the Hakosuka GT-R were ever built, so today they’re considered a highly valuable classic. As such, most modified versions are kept very tasteful, much like this one.

Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R ‘Kenmeri’ (1973)

By 1973, the Nissan Skyline GT-R had a very different look. A development of the coupe silhouette that the Hakosuka ended with, the next generation of GT-R emulated its sporty Stateside counterparts by incorporating a fastback rear end. A slightly more luxurious interior was another nod to the American market influence in the second-gen GT-R’s future. This was something that became pretty evident in the car’s advertising campaign, which centered around a fictional young Western couple called Ken and Mary. So, if you’re wondering where the ‘Kenmeri’ nickname comes from, it’s as simple as that.

Sadly, the oil crisis put an end to the GT-R’s American dream. In fact, stricter emissions regulations nearly wiped out the Kenmeri Skyline entirely. But happily, before Nissan pulled the plug on it, 197 GT-R examples did make their way into the hands of customers. Nevertheless, if Hakosukas are rare, then the Kenmeri is on a whole other level of scarcity. That’s a shame really, because on paper the Kenmeri GT-R makes for an interesting vehicle.

Kenmeri Specs

It retained exactly the same ‘S20’ straight-six as found in the Hakosuka. As well as the accompanying five-speed manual gearbox and limited-slip differential. Similarly, four-wheel independent suspension was another feature carried over between the two cars. However, unlike the Hakosuka, the Kenmeri benefitted from disc brakes all-round, which should’ve made a big difference on the track. That said, the Kenmeri was also a little bit heavier than the Hakosuka in roadgoing form, so it would’ve been interesting to see how the two cars stacked up against each other in reality.

Unfortunately, there wasn’t much opportunity for such comparisons, as Nissan’s motorsport division stopped; its resources and manpower having to be spent on developing new emissions-related tech instead. In fact, with the Kenmeri GT-R canned after just six months on sale, the world waited another 16 years for another GT-R.

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 (1989-1994)

If you’re going to do a reboot, you’ve got to make sure it’s good. With hindsight, it seems almost silly to have worried about whether or not the R32 Skyline GT-R would live up to its badge’s billing. However, there were certainly question marks hanging over the car in the build up to its launch.

Since the Kenmeri, Nissan had built further sporting variants of its Skyline models, like the R31 GTS-R. But none bore the GT-R name. None of them lived up to the Hakosuka’s legacy either. If Nissan was to finally revive the GT-R moniker, its engineers knew that they’d have to step things up. Illness meant that Nissan could no longer rely on Shinichiro Sakurai to deliver the goods. Instead the task went to his understudy – Naganori Ito. Ito-san had headed the development of the outgoing R31. Given the car’s mixed reception, the pressure was on to get the R32 right.

Introducing the RB26DETT & clever AWD system

If he was going to do the GT-R name justice, Ito-san knew that it had to perform on track.  An upgraded engine was therefore high on his to-do-list. The R32 became the first GT-R equipped with the now-legendary RB26 motor. This was effectively a twin-turbocharged, bored-out version of the existing 2.0-litre RB block used in the previous car. However, it now had a capacity of 2.6 liters, and an official power output of 276hp. I say ‘official’ because at the time Japanese marques were bound to a so-called ‘Gentleman’s agreement’. This meant that none of their road cars would exceed that figure. In reality though, the R32 GT-R was producing something closer to the 310hp-mark.

The engine wasn’t the R32’s only party trick though. Instead, that was its all-wheel drive system. Known as ATESSA E-TS, the car’s electronic system could vary how much torque was sent to each axle. Compared to its biggest rivals – all of which were RWD – the R32 GT-R had a major traction advantage.

On the racetrack, this translated into a form of dominance that not even the Hakosuka could claim to have achieved. Between 1989-1993, the R32 GT-R won every single professional race it entered in Japan. It caused quite a stir in Australia too. In fact, the Aussies got so tired of the exotic Nissan trouncing their domestic Fords and Holdens that they brandished it with the beastly ‘Godzilla’ nickname. Not intended as a compliment, the Godzilla title was quickly claimed as a badge of honor.

Pros of the Nissan Skyline GT-R R32

• Highly capable RB26 motor
• ATESSA-ETS all-wheel drive
• Now legal to import to the US

Cons

• Potential for rust
• Cheap interior
• Lots of modified examples to be cautious of

Common Problems

• Oil pump failure
• Stock turbo failure
• Faulty HICAS system

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 prices

If you want to get your hands on one of these beasts from the east, you’ll need a sizeable chunk of cash. Prices in the UK start at around £35,000, and stretch up to £50,000 for lower mileage examples. That said, special tuning shop variations can fetch closer to £85,000, while the most sough-after garage queens can cost you six figures. Stateside, it’s a similar story. Our American readers should look to pay between $45,000 – $60,000 for one, depending on mileage, condition and modification status.

How to buy and tune a Skyline R32 GT-R

It goes without saying that the R32 was just as good a road car as it was a race car. Thankfully Nissan got to make quite a few more of them than the original Hakosuka and Kenmeri. If you’re thinking of buying one second-hand, be sure to check out our dedicated buyer’s guide. Or, if you’d like some advice on how to tune your R32, we’ve got a tuning guide for that as well. There’s also a vast array of modified examples for you to check out. So go on, dive in!

And if you love Japanese classics as much as we do, then get yourself to our inaugural Classic Japfest event this October 6th at Goodwood Motor Circuit. 

Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 (1995-1998)

Compared to both the R32 and the R34 that succeeded it, the R33 doesn’t tend to get as much love. So why is that?

Well, it’s not because the R33 is a bad car. Instead, it’s mostly down to the fact that Nissan altered a key part of the GT-R’s identity: its size. The R32 had a reputation for being a sporty, nimble car, and so when Nissan decided to extend the Skyline’s wheelbase for the R33 (and add 80kg), people feared that the GT-R was heading down the wrong direction. Even today, nearly 30 years later, you’ll hear similar criticisms voiced about it.  At the time, concerns were hardly eased in the form of motorsport either, as although the R33 did achieve success (in a highly modified form) in Japan’s Super GT Championship, it lacked the international sporting credibility that the R32 had built for itself.

Nevertheless, if you were to actually get behind the wheel of one, you probably wouldn’t understand what the fuss was all about. Sure, it was a bit bigger and a bit heavier, but it was still unmistakably a GT-R. In fact, in many ways, it was better.

The ATESSA E-TS four-wheel drive system received a handful of upgrades which ultimately enabled it to react quicker to its environment. Plus, despite the increase in dimensions, the sleeker styling of the car meant that it was more aerodynamic than the R32 as well. The much-loved RB26 powertrain remained under the hood, but again, in slightly better shape than it had been before. For example, whereas the R32 was occasionally criticized for having weak oil pump auxiliaries, this was addressed in the R33. Similarly, a strengthened five-speed manual gearbox arrived.

Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 special editions

If the standard R33 GT-R simply wasn’t to your liking, you were in luck, as the tradition of having multiple trim levels and special editions was another feature that continued on from the R32 days. The most common of which is the V-Spec, or ‘victory-spec’, a variation of the GT-R marking the R32’s success on the track. In this guise, the R33 sits lower than it does as standard, thanks to uprated sports suspension, meanwhile the ‘Pro’ version of the ATESSA system was also fitted for even better roadholding.

Next up there were the N1 models. These Nürburgring specials were perhaps the most hardcore of the initial R33 package options, as ABS, air conditioning, and plenty of other creature comforts were all thrown in the bin in the name of weight saving.

However, if you ignore the GTR-LM (and we’re going to, since there’s only one roadgoing version in existence), the pinnacle of the R33 family tree was the NISMO 400R. Introduced in 1995, the 400R came equipped with a 400hp version of the RB26 engine, as well as a refined cooling system, beefier brakes, and fruitier exhaust. The exterior of the car also got the NISMO treatment, adding aggression to its sleek lines without going overboard.

It’s best not to think about how much a 400R would cost you in the present day though, so instead if you want the R33 to live up to its reputation as being the ‘cheapest used Skyline’, you’re better off setting your sights on a V-Spec. Though, admittedly, whichever R33 you’re after, prices do seem to be catching (and in many cases, overtaking) the prices attributed to equal R32 examples. A trend to keep an eye on, perhaps.

Pros of the Nissan Skyline GT-R R33

• More torque than an R32
• Enhanced ATESSA E-TS all-wheel drive compared to R32
• Now legal to import to the US.

Cons

• Potential for rust
• Considered big & bulky compared to R32 & R34
• Cheap interior

Common Problems

• Knocking sound from the rear differential
• Leaky steering rack seals
• Worn track rod ends

Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 Prices

These days, it appears as though the market has begun to see through the amplified negative discourse around the car, as prices seem to be on the rise. Until recently, the R33 was arguably more affordable than the R32, however that’s no longer true. In the US, you’re looking at starting prices of around $45,000, but the average figure is closer to $65,000. The most desirable, rarest examples are now well into six-figure territory. In the UK, £50,000-£60,000 is the sort of money that an average car would dictate.

How to buy and tune a Skyline R33 GT-R

If you’re serious about getting your hands on one of these, check out our R33 buyer’s guide. Or, if you’ve already got one and now want to start modifying it, give our R33 tuning guide a read instead. There’s also a number of feature cars on the site to give you some inspiration. While it may lack the ultimate street cred of the R32 or R34, the R33 nonetheless remains a brilliant canvas for tuning.

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 (1999-2002)

If you’re of a certain age, this is the car that’ll spring to mind when you’re asked to visualize a Nissan Skyline GT-R. The R34 was much more present in Western pop culture than any of its predecessors. It took star roles in PlayStation’s Gran Turismo video games, and Hollywood’s Fast & Furious franchise. In fact, its presence on our living room TV screens did far more for the car’s reputation than a successful motorsport history. And that’s just as well, as the R34 was rarely seen on a racetrack outside of Japan.

That said, don’t go thinking that this car was simply a PR masterclass. There was a reason why it was handed so much respect in the media. It had the performance and stature to warrant the attention.

For a start, Nissan went back to the drawing board to address the styling complaints that many prospective buyer’s raised about the R33. The result left the R34 with a shorter, boxier silhouette that was reminiscent of the R32. Weight was also kept to a minimal increase. This meant that in the minds of GT-R customers, two important boxes were already ticked before they had even gotten behind the wheel.

Last Hurrah For RB26DETT

Once they did take to the driver’s seat though, their smiles would’ve only grown wider. The R34 was to be the last hurrah for the beloved RB26 engine It was only fair that it received further enhancements for its send-off. The twin turbos made use of ball bearing architecture. This in turn improved reliability and decreased spool time. Overall, power now unofficially stood at 320hp, without harming the block’s bulletproof reputation.

To go along with that extra oomph, Getrag developed a six-speed gearbox. This would replace the old five-speed manual transmission, while Brembo increased the size of the GT-R’s brake discs.

Naturally, more goodies came with the limited-edition variants. The V-Spec, for example, once again benefitted from ATESSA ETS-Pro’s electronic differential. In fact, the V-Spec was the only R34 model officially sold in the UK. If you find one of those British cars, you’ll notice that it also comes equipped with leather seats, stiffer suspension, and three more oil coolers. The ECU also features reprogrammed settings. This is in order to deal better with the climate and road conditions in this country.

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 special editions

The stripped back N1 trim level made its return as well. On the other end of the spectrum, M-Spec introduced a more comfortable, laid-back persona to the GT-R.

However, as was the case with R33, the ultimate R34 was built by the likes of NISMO. Known as the Z-Tune, these 20 unicorns were all built atop converted donor cars. They featured a bigger 2.8-litre version of the RB26, while carbon fiber was also used in swathes to reduce weight. As such, the Z-Tune is the holy grail of all Skyline GT-Rs, let alone the R34.

Pros of the Nissan Skyline GT-R R34

• Most desirable iteration of GT-R
• Most advanced standard iteration of the RB26 motor
• Six manual gears rather than five.

Cons

• Potential for rust
• Prices for these have boomed
• There are several dressed-up GTTs floating around – don’t get caught out!

Common Problems

• Fried coil packs & split vacuum lines
• Popping out of gear (especially in first)
• Faulty LCD display

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 Prices

In 2023, original R34 GT-Rs don’t sell for less than $/£100,000, assuming they’re in working order. In fact, the market is so variable depending on anything from mileage, to color, to spec, that you could be looking at prices anywhere between $/£125,000-$/£180,000. It’s certainly not unheard of for the $/£200,000 barrier to be breached in special cases, while the rarest, most legendary specifications are getting perilously close to half a million. Technically, the R34 GT-R still isn’t quite legal to import to the US (although the earliest 1998 examples will be), yet that’s not to say you won’t see any there. Again, expect similarly ludicrous prices.

If you’re interested in just how expensive Skyline GT-Rs can be, check out our list of the most expensive Skyline GT-Rs ever sold!

How to buy and tune a Skyline R34 GT-R

These days though, even a V-Spec is likely to set you back in excess of $100,000. If you’ve got that sort of cash lying around, feel free to check out our R34 buyer’s guide. Plus, if you want to read our hands-on review of the car, you can do so here. Looking to modify one? Check out our R34 tuning guide for all the info you’ll need.

As you can imagine, there’s plenty of modified R34 feature cars for you to cast your eyes over on the site as well.

Nissan GT-R ‘R35’ (2007-Present)

Ok, technically speaking, this isn’t a Skyline at all, but it most definitely is a GT-R. The R35 marked a split between the Skyline and GT-R nameplates, perhaps because Nissan felt that to take the GT-R to the next level, they’d have to leave its humble family sedan DNA behind. Instead, the R35’s bespoke platform straddles the divide between sports coupe and all-out supercar, thanks to a spec sheet as nerdy as Professor Frink.

For example, the nitrogen-filled tires were a much-spoken about element of the R35 upon its launch, such was the nitty gritty detail that had gone into its R&D. The car also boasted impressive-sounding features such as carbon-composite crossmembers, while a hermetically sealed lab housed the engine build… whatever that means. What an engine it was, too. Designated the ‘VR38-DETT’ code, its six cylinders shifted from an in-line orientation to a ‘V’ position, while capacity now stood at 3.8 liters. The twin-turbo idea stuck around from previous GT-Rs, but as the Japanese gentleman’s agreement had been cast aside by 2007, Nissan could now proudly laud the VR38’s 480hp in an official capacity.

In a bid to show off the new GT-R’s capabilities as much as possible, it wasn’t long before the R35 arrived in motorsport. Like previous iterations, it felt right at home in the Japanese Super GT championship, however the R35 also marked Nissan’s return to elite international racing as well. German duo Michael Krumm and Lucas Luhr would drive the car to outright glory in the 2011 FIA GT1 World Championship, while a successful GT3 program would follow suit.

Those race cars were rear-wheel drive in order to fit their respective championships’ regulations, but the GT-R’s staple ATESSA all-wheel drive system remained in place for the roadgoing version.

Nissan GT-R R35 updates

Already the most mechanically advanced GT-R ever built when it debuted, Nissan never quite managed to stop tinkering with the R35 over the next decade of the car’s (unusually long) lifespan. The first major facelift arrived in 2011, when revised engine architecture and ECU mapping boosted the VR38’s output to 530hp, alongside a stiffer chassis. Then just two years later, power increased again; this time to 544hp, while the suspension was also reworked. Finally, in 2017, the R35 GT-R got a light visual facelift at the front, smoother transmission, and an engine which now kicked out 565hp. Beyond the changes made to the base model, there was also a plethora of limited editions built along the way. In fact, there’s simply too many to cover all of them here.

The most important special editions, however, were arguably the Spec V (for old times’ sake) and the GT-R NISMO. The 2009 Spec V was an homage to the V-Spec cars of yesteryear, and featured a sprinkling of extra engine torque, as well as a weight-loss program that ensured it remains one of the lightest R35 GT-R variants to date. The NISMO edition, meanwhile first arrived in 2013, but got an update in 2020.

The latter version of the car adds more aggressive aero and red trim to the facelifted bodywork, as well as the same turbochargers found in the aforementioned GT3 racecar. Its carbon ceramic brakes are the largest ever fitted to a GT-R, and plenty of carbon was also used in its reworked bodywork to keep weight down. Nissan claims that this means the GT-R NISMO can accelerate to 60mph in less than three seconds, while top speed sits at around the 200mph-mark.

Pros of the Nissan GT-R R35

• Supercar levels of performance
• All the GT-R fun with added modern interior tech and design
• Widely available around the world

Cons

• Supercar speed means near-supercar prices
• Very sensitive to alignment & geometry
• Factory paintwork is weak

Nissan GT-R R35 Common Problems

• Noisy rear differential
• Transmission damage from launch control abuse
• Cracked rotors/discs from lead-footed brakers.

Nissan GT-R Prices

As far as prices go, well, the market for this car is just as wide-ranging as its spec sheet over the years. Early high mileage cars cost around $60,000, while low-mileage, newer cars sell for R34-rivalling prices; up to around $140,000 for something fairly close to standard, or nearer $190,000 for super-modified 1000PS beasts. Of course, there are still new and nearly-new examples up for sale in the US as well, while a facelift model is due in 2024. At the moment, fresh ’23 plate GT-Rs have a starting MSRP of $113,000, though with the current state of dealer mark-ups, don’t be surprised to see them sell for much higher figures in reality.

Over in the UK, the R35 is no longer on sale, so you’ll be restricted to the second-hand market. Happily though, prices are a little more down to earth. Entry-level examples can be picked up for £35,000, though the market does stretch up to and beyond £100,000 the newer and rarer you go. Recently, one of the UK’s most powerful R35 GT-Rs went up for sale for almost £200,000, though this featured an engine capable of almost 2,500bhp. As an aside, that car can complete the quarter-mile in 7ish seconds with a trap speed of near-as-dammit 180mph.

How to buy and tune a Nissan GT-R R35

Given how long the R35 GT-R has been around, we could go on and on, however for all the key bits of information you need about buying one, check out our dedicated buyer’s guide. And, as ever, be sure to take a look at some of our R35 feature cars. If you need advice on modifying one, have a read of our R35 GT-R tuning guide.

The future is almost certainly electric for the GT-R nameplate, but thanks to this lineage of six-cylinder heroes, its legacy amongst tuner culture will last forever.

Already got a Skyline or GT-R of your own that you want to tune? Check out these articles next:

• Best Modified Nissan Skyline GT-R feature cars
• Best wheels for a GT-R
• Best suspension for a GT-R
• Best exhaust for a GT-R
• Best air filter for a GT-R

Want to see some of the finest Nissan Skyline GT-Rs on display at an iconic venue? Then you’re in luck. Not only will you have the opportunity to ogle over modified Skyline GT-Rs, but Goodwood Motor Circuit will be filled with the finest Classic JDM cars, too. Be sure to check out our premier Classic Japfest event right here.

The post Nissan Skyline GT-R Ultimate Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Honda Civic Type R FK8 – A Brief History

Evolution Not Revolution

On sale from 2017-2021, the Honda Civic Type R FK8 was all about the numbers. Before it even hit the showrooms, Honda was boasting of its benchmark-setting Nordschleife time – a frankly unbelievable 7:43.8. For a smidge over 30,000, buyers were furnished with a tasty platter of figures; 320hp, 169mph, 0-62mph in 5.7s, 1380kg. Undoubtedly, the FK8 is an awesome machine. We should know; we’ve driven a few over the years. Check out our FK8 Civic Type R review here.

For the US market, the FK8 represented the first official Civic Type R to go on sale in North America. However, the US-spec FK8’s featured less power than European and Japanese models. Albeit only miniscule, with a power output of 316hp. Performance figures remains unchanged against other FK8 market cars.

The transition from FK2 to FK8 saw the existing engine and gearbox being carried over to the new model (much like with the EP3 and FN2). Torque remained the same and horsepower increased by 10hp. But the chassis was entirely reimagined to create something a lot more cosseting and friendly than the often harsh-riding FK2. Standard trim was impressive, too. It featured carbon fiber side skirts, a rear diffuser, and a distinctive triple-exit exhaust designed to help reduce boom on the motorway.

Freshening Things Up

For the 2020 model year, the connoisseur’s hot hatch received a mid-life refresh. While it still wore the brutally uncompromising Touring Car-inspired aesthetic, it had evolved to become even smarter. Honda’s way with such things is to constantly reassess and refine. The upgrades to the 2020 FK8 were subtle but significant. There was a larger radiator, which allowed for a 13% bigger front grille, and that in turn dictated a redesign of the splitter. The already devastating brakes were levelled-up to track-spec two-piece rotors. This made them even more hardcore and took 15mm of travel out of the brake pedal to give you more feel. The adaptive damping was re-tuned to refine wheel control through aggressive cornering. Finally, the ball-shaped gear knob was replaced with a more tactile teardrop design, like in a DC2 Integra or EP3.

The mechanicals were untouched, the overall package being just that little bit sharper. There was also a new paint color in the line-up, Boost Blue, along with two new versions of the car. The Type R Sport Line was a little more subtle, a bit like Porsche’s ‘Touring’ option for the 911 GT3. It featured a much smaller rear spoiler, downsized 19” wheels (instead of 20”), and the seats were trimmed in tasteful black instead of red. Going in the other direction was the Type R Limited Edition. Only 20 came to the UK, and it was bright yellow and came with forged BBS alloy wheels and Michelin Cup 2s as well as a whole load of weight loss. The stereo, air-con and sound deadening went in the bin. Believe us when we say that car on those tires is very frisky on a wet track!

In Conclusion…

The fresh upgrades to the facelift Honda Civic Type R FK8 may be subtle, but they count for a lot. Arguably the best hot hatch on the market became even better. Of course, even the pre-facelift FK8s were supremely capable machines and, having officially ceased production, they’re all very much sought after today.

Honda Civic Type R FK8 Most Common Problems

• Second-gear grind
• Sensitive to alignment
• Infotainment system crashes
• Premature bolster wear
• Rotors/Discs cracking

What to look out for when buying the Honda Civic Type R FK8

Below, we’ll take a more in depth look at the different areas of an FK8 and what you should be aware of before going to buy one.

Honda Civic Type R FK8 Engine

The K20C1 turbocharged four-cylinder VTEC is an absolutely awesome engine that delivers incredible performance. It offers plenty of modding potential, and, best of all, has proved to be incredibly reliable so far. Considering the FK8 is now five years old, you’d expect to see some issues creeping in or coming to light on higher-mileage cars. However, predictability, with it being a Honda, even in Type R guise, so there’s really nothing to report here. This is obviously good news if you’re shopping for one, so no complaints there. 

If you’re looking to extract a bit more performance from that 2.0-litre engine, check out our FK8 Type R tuning guide.

Transmission

The transmission, while fundamentally carried over from the FK2, was reworked for this new application with a shorter shift throw. It also featured a counterweighted gear knob, a new single-mass flywheel, and a top ratio that’s 7% shorter. It’s a great gearbox, but the fact that it’s pretty much the FK2’s box means it also comes with a common FK2 issue, that being the infamous second-gear grind.

It’s a common problem that arises and seems to be one that Honda hasn’t got a fix for, and you basically get grinding and resistance when going from first to second, most often during fast shifts. It doesn’t always happen, it might not happen at all for you, but it’s something to be aware of. There isn’t one fix, however, several solutions have been discussed by owners. These include deleting the clutch delay valve, changing the transmission fluid, with Motul Multi ATF being suggested by some owners, adjusting the CMC plunger behind the clutch pedal, and, ultimately, just shifting gently from first to second.

Honda Civic Type R FK8 Chassis – Suspension, Brakes and Wheels

With the clever dual-axis MacPherson strut front end and the new multi-link rear, this is a highly sophisticated chassis, and that means it’s also very sensitive to setup. If the tracking’s out, it can feel like a wobbly mess, so it’s crucial to ensure that the alignment is set either to the manufacturer settings or those of a trusted aftermarket specialist.

The two-piece discs on facelift models require careful inspection. It’s not unusual for them to sound a bit squeaky, but if you can see hairline cracks emanating from the drilled holes, then they’ve clearly taken repeated harsh use and will require imminent replacement.

There is some debate about what wheel size is best for the FK8. Naturally, when it comes to looks, bigger is almost always better, and it seems that Honda agrees as all FK8 CTRs came with 20s as standard until the Sport Line was launched, which came equipped with 19s. However, some specialists feel that both these wheel sizes are simply too big for the FK8. You want 18s if you want the sweetest-handling setup.

However, you have to consider that as the car was launched with 20s, it’s been engineered for 20s, and some owners have found that downsizing robs the FK8 of some of its steering feel. Others have also stated that dropping down to 18s results in a slight increase in torque steer. But to balance that out, you can get some lightweight 18s that will reduce unsprung weight, and the ride will be much better, which is definitely something to consider if your CTR is your everyday car and how bad a lot of the UK’s roads are.

FK8 Interior

When it comes to the interior, this is a very pleasant place to be with some of the best seats in the business. However, those chunky bolsters do wear over time because you’re always rubbing against them when getting in and out of the car, but you can get covers to protect your seats. The infotainment system has a habit of crashing, so don’t be surprised if it happens – some owners have had their whole units replaced, but that hasn’t solved the problem, so be prepared for that to happen. Finally, there is an annoying rattle from the dash at around 4500rpm. This has been reported by a few owners, and no one can deduce where it’s coming from, so let’s just call it character.

Exterior

Generally speaking, there’s really not much to worry about in terms of bodywork. Obviously, inspect any car carefully to make sure there’s no damage, no dings or dents, all the panels line up correctly, the color matches everywhere, and there are no suspicious signs of a possible prang. The CTR is the kind of car that encourages a “Watch this…!” moment followed by the person behind the wheel rapidly running out of talent, and FK8s are likely to have been driven hard, and might have also seen a few track days, so it pays to be vigilant and carry out a careful and thorough inspection. Some owners have also reported that cracks have started appearing where the roof meets the sides of the boot, with rust forming around the cracks. It’s a warranty fix, but it’s something to be aware of.

Honda Civic Type R FK8 prices

Despite the introduction of the new FL5 model, FK8 Type R prices still remain strong. Price fluctuations depend on the usual factors, mileage, condition, history, modifications etc. As a rough guide, prices tend to float from $32,000-$45,000 in the US, with the upper end reserved for the special edition models. In the UK, prices range between £19,000-£35,000.

Looking for the freshest Type R technology that Honda has to offer? Then check out the latest FL5 Civic Type R.

Tech Spec: Honda Civic Type R FK8

• Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo k20c1
• Transmission: Six-speed manual gearbox
• Max Power: 320hp @ 6500rpm. 316hp US market. 
• Max Torque: 295lb ft @ 2500-4500rpm
• 0-62mph: 5.7 seconds
• Top Speed: 169mph
• Weight (kerb): 1380kg
• Economy: 36.7mpg
• Emissions (CO2): 176g/km
• Price When New (OTR): $32,795/£32,995 (GT)

Words: Daniel Bevis and Elizabeth de Latour. Photos: Honda. 

Don’t forget, we’re hosting our Trax event this September 1st at Silverstone! Be sure to visit the event website for more information and to purchase your tickets. This year’s show is not to be missed! Check out our Trax preview here to find out why. 

The post Honda Civic Type R FK8 Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The subject of engine and oil additives has always been a divisive one. Some people swear by them. While others think they are little more than snake oil. So, we decided to put some to the test.

One of the most popular additives among modified car enthusiasts is Liqui Moly Cera Tec. It adds protection and increases the longevity of your engine, but we wondered if could also help increase power and torque too. So, we grabbed a mate’s Focus ST, ordered some Cera Tec, and headed to the dyno to find out…

Watch the video to see how we got on. Or, for more details, continue reading below

What is Liqui Moly Cera Tec?

Cera Tec is a high-tech ceramic wear protection additive from Liqui Moly. Its main job is to enhance the performance and longevity of your engine by reducing friction and wear. It incorporates advanced ceramic compounds to provide superior chemical and thermal resistance, and is suitable for use in both petrol and diesel engines. You can also use it with all commercially available motor oils.

While Liqui Moly explains the main benefits of Cera Tec are reduced wear, smoother running, and possibly better fuel economy, we wondered if those reductions in frictional losses would translate as an increase in power and torque too. Let’s find out.

Buy Cera Tec for your car today. Here are some of the best prices currently available.

The Test

So, to find out if adding an oil additive would increase power we asked to borrow a friend’s Focus ST and set about doing a back-to-back comparison. The car was due for an oil change, so it was perfect to get a base figure from before we added any Liqui Moly products.

We put the car on the dyno and recorded two ‘before’ runs to give us a base figure to work from.

Then, we completed a full oil flush using Liqui Moly’s Motor Clean. Once this had been given time to circulate for 10 minutes or so, we then drained the oil and replaced the oil filter with a brand new genuine Ford replacement.

We replaced the engine oil with Liqui Moly Special Tec 5w-30, which is designed to meet the required specifications for the Focus ST.

Finally, we added one bottle of Liqui Moly Cera Tec oil additive. We then drove the car back to Mobile Eco Tuning (about 5 miles away) where we put the car back on the dyno for another two power runs.

Using that data, we were able to see what difference, if any, the Liqui Moly additives had made to the performance of the car.

The Car

The car we used for this test was a 2007 Ford Focus ST. It features some bolt-on performance upgrades such as a turbo-back exhaust system including sports cat, Ram Air intake system with uprated crossover pipe, Airtec intercooler and inlet plenum, block mod, and a Revo Stage 2 remap. The car has been well cared for throughout its life with a comprehensive service history. It’s a daily driver and has covered just shy of 90,000 miles

Owner Mark Sargeant had never had the car on the dyno, but was told previously the car should be running close to 300bhp.

This mix of performance upgrades, mileage, and regular use makes it a perfect test bed for this experiment.

The Dyno

The dyno we used for this test is a state-of-the-art Dimsport 4WD DF4FSHLS at Mobile Eco Tuning (MET) based in Somerset. It’s one of the best dynos currently available, capable of supporting over 1000bhp and providing accurate power and torque measurements.

More than that, we also asked David and the team at MET to data log each dyno run too, so we could analyse all engine parameters to get a better understanding of any differences between the dyno runs.

The Results

Before Liqui Moly Cera Tec

On the very first dyno run, the car made 246.2bhp with 427.6Nm. On the second run, it produced a little more power, recording 258.9bhp while torque increased to 440Nm.

You can see from the dyno graph that the power starts to flat-line at around 5500rpm on both runs. This is why the peak power figure on the first run was recorded at around 1000rpm less than on the second run. David at MET advised that this is a classic symptom of a very common wastegate issue with the Focus ST. A weakened actuator spring means the wastegate cannot maintain boost pressures at higher revs, resulting in the power curve flattening out. This theory was further supported by the torque curve falling quite notably after 4000rpm.

Looking at the trajectory of the power curve, without the wastegate issue, we could estimate the peak power would be between 270-280bhp.

After Liqui Moly Cera Tec

After we replaced the oil and added Cera Tec, the car was back on the same dyno on the same day for some back-to-back testing. Again, we completed two runs. The first of which showed peak power had increased to 268.7bhp. Torque had increased too, now at 488Nm. On the second run both power and torque decreased slightly – 261bhp and 473Nm. Heat soak starts to take effect on the second run and reduces peak power.

Once again the issue with the actuator spring was present. Checking the data logs showed that the wastegate was holding 1.2 bar of boost up until 4000rpm. Bu it drops off quickly. By the end of the run, the boost pressure was less than 0.7 bar of boost. This is almost certainly the cause for the dip in the graph after 4000rpm. David at MET is confident that with an uprated actuator, the power and torque curves would be on course to produce well over 300bhp peak power.

Did Liqui Moly Cera Tec increase power?

Yes! More than we expected! Despite the issues with the wastegate not holding boost pressure, we can still draw some very impressive conclusions. The peak power figures have increased from 258.9bhp to 268.7bhp. A 10bhp gain for an oil additive is very impressive, but that only tells half the story.

More impressive than the peak power figures is the gain in mid-range power. Let’s compare the most powerful ‘before’ run with the most powerful ‘after’ run. You can see that at 4300rpm the bhp difference is well over 20bhp. Between the least and most powerful runs, the delta at 4300rpm is nearly 30bhp!

Did Liqui Moly Cera Tec increase torque?

Yes, once again the results impressed us! Comparing the before and after graphs, we can see that peak torque occurs at the same point (all four runs saw peak torque recorded within less than 100 rpm of each other). However, the peak figure has increased by a whopping 48Nm between the ‘before’ and ‘after’ runs. The difference between the highest and lowest runs of the day is over 60Nm!

Before Liqui moly Cera Tec vs After 

This is not a scientific test, but it was a real-world test that replicated how most owners will use Cera Tec. The issue with the wastegate actuator did prevent us from seeing what the true peak power figures might have been. David at MET checked the data logs from all four runs to verify that nothing else could be causing the increases we’ve seen. That leads us to believe that the reduction in frictional losses after using Cera Tec has released extra power and torque.

Perhaps the most notable difference is how much sooner the power comes in. Between 3000rpm and 4500rpm the difference in the area under the curve is quite significant.  It’s the same story with torque too. The rate at which the torque increases after we added Cera Tec is a huge improvement compared to before. You’d definitely notice these increases on the road.

The Dyno Operator Says…

David at MET said: “We couldn’t quite believe it either. We’ve checked the data logs and there’s nothing different between the runs, so the increases must have come from the reduction in frictional losses. These STs always suffer with actuator issues – 9 out of 10 we see have similar problems to this one – but I’d never have guessed that adding Cera Tec would increase the performance in the way it has.”

The Owner Says…

When we asked Mark for his feedback on the way back to the dyno he said the car already felt smoother and more responsive to drive. After seeing the figures on the dyno Mark said: “I couldn’t quite believe the difference it made! It felt stronger but I wasn’t expecting it to show such a big difference on the dyno. I’m a little bit gutted about the actuator but I’ve already ordered one with an uprated spring and an uprated recirc valve too. I’ll bring the car back to MET for another dyno run once I’ve fitted those to see what difference it makes.”

Do Liqui Moly Engine Additives Really Work?

It’s always difficult to tell if an additive has made any difference or not, especially as many form part of a preventative maintenance routine. Would something have failed if you didn’t use the additive? You’ll never know. But is is better to be safe than sorry?

In our test, we clearly showed that the oil flush, fresh high-quality oil and Cera Tec additive have contributed to a significant increase in power and torque. We can’t vouch for the improvement in longevity or fuel economy as we have been unable to test those, but given the results on the dyno we would be surprised if it doesn’t make a notable improvement there too.

Using additives like Cera Tec and others from Liqui Moly’s comprehensive range of products forms the foundation for a solid preventative maintenance routine. Cera Tec costs around £20 per bottle, offering extra peace of mind for a small additional cost. Plus, when you can literally pour extra horsepower and torque into your engine, why wouldn’t you!?

Try Cera Tec in your car today and let us know the results.

The post Liqui Moly Cera Tec adds protection… and gains POWER! appeared first on Fast Car.

Why would you want a performance exhaust? Well, most standard car exhaust systems pose huge restrictions on a tuned engine, or even a standard one. The reason for this often comes down strict policies that manufacturers have to adhere to. This is either due to noise or environmental concerns. Although it can equally come down to a simple matter of ease of ground clearance, or ease of fitting.

Sometimes companies even deliberately make them restrictive so that the standard car isn’t too powerful. As a result, exhaust-based performance gains can be easy to achieve. The gains on an otherwise standard car could only be a few bhp but on turbocharged cars that could be 20bhp+. In that scenario, spool up tends to be improved too.

Lightness is another benefit of a performance exhaust. On particularly restrictive systems the reduced backpressure could in theory help reliability a little. So, now that you understand why performance exhausts can be so desirable, let’s dive a bit deeper into the intricacies.

Does a performance exhaust have to be loud?

No, a performance exhaust doesn’t have to be loud. Despite the common preconception, big power and big noise do not run hand in hand. If you had the money and space you could easily build a 1000bhp exhaust system that would pass every track day noise limit.

The reason most performance exhausts are loud is it’s a lot cheaper. It’s also a lot easier, and lighter, to make a loud exhaust. This is because it needs little or no silencers. It also goes without saying that sound is often an attraction to many buyers.

Silencers are not a restriction as long as they are straight-through versions. This means the path of the exhaust gas through the silencer is almost totally unrestricted, despite being quieter.

The main challenge with building a quiet exhaust is the price. A straight three-inch piece of pipe may cost $30 / £25, but a three-inch silencer could set you back $170 / £150. When you may need four to pass noise regulations, plus extra pipe work and labor costs, it’s easy to see why many performance exhausts are loud; if they weren’t many couldn’t afford them!

Track noise limits and performance exhausts

This is a big talking point among track day goers because a large number of cars fail the limits. Generally speaking, tracks have a noise limit of between 95dB and 105dB static. Some have drive-by limits as low as 85dB, low enough that even standard supercars fail the test.

Some circuits have purely static tests. This means you aren’t tested while driving. However, you can still be black flagged for being too loud on track. Some circuits have very occasional “noisy days” where there are no dB limits. Some occasionally turn a blind eye to cars noisier than the advertised limit on special events.

But this is rare, so if you ever want to hit the track you really need a quiet exhaust system. Also be warned that what sounds louder to the human ear isn’t always louder according to the decibel meter. The low rumble of a turbocharged car often breaks the noise limits on track days far easier than N/A; never presume your car is quiet enough or too loud, get it checked.

The final thing worth mentioning is that track days are being banned at locations all around the UK due to noise complaints. Complaints that would never have happened if the exhausts weren’t too loud in the first place. So it’s wise to fit a quiet exhaust regardless of the current rules at your chosen track or airfield.

Exhaust noise suppression

As already mentioned, track day noise limits are strict. Even on the road a loud exhaust attracts a lot of attention from the police. So, a quieter exhaust system can be a really good idea.

The trouble is you don’t want to lose any performance.  You also may not be able to get a full custom made ultra-quiet system, so what are your other options? Well, there are many, some cheap, some not so cheap; some free flowing, and some far from it!

Tailpipe bungs

These bolt inside the tailpipe and do exactly what the name implies and quietens down the exhaust. Although many people don’t realize this, a bung is hugely restrictive unless your exhaust was far too big in the first place. It can often cripple a car’s top end power output.

Bungs can literally be fitted and removed in minutes, but in the majority of places where you want maximum performance, you also need to be quiet, so their use is somewhat limited. As a quick emergency fix, the tailpipe bung is hard to beat. However, ideal it is not.

Extra exhaust silencers

I’m sure you’ve realized silencing via a restriction is a bad idea for performance. You need to do something better if going fast is your goal. The most obvious and effective solution is extra silencers, meaning no lost performance while still lowering the volume. Getting an extra silencer or two welded into your current exhaust system is an easy job for any competent welder or exhaust specialist.

If you don’t want to go this far and don’t mind your car looking a bit odd, some people fabricate removable extra silencers for track days. A real silencer is far more expensive than simply creating a blockage, but it is the price you have to pay for performance.

Exhaust bypass valves

An option which actually comes as standard on many performance cars is a bypass valve. This, unsurprisingly, bypasses your quiet, but restrictive exhaust at either the flick of a switch or at a certain boost pressure. This lets the gas out of a less restrictive but louder exhaust, generally a straight pipe. Again, this keeps static and slow speed volumes to a minimum, but won’t stop you being black flagged for excessive drive-by noise.

Flapper valves

Working in a similar manor to bungs are flapper valves, which are controlled either electronically or mechanically. When closed, they restrict the exhaust system and drastically lower the exhaust volume.

Unfortunately, when closed these are even more harmful to power than bungs, and we have seen turbo cars unable to reach even half their desired boost pressure with one of these fitted and closed as they are so restrictive.

Exhaust tailpipe direction

The most overlooked way of reducing your exhaust volume are cleverly placed exhaust outlets. Have you ever noticed a lot of race cars have turned down tailpipes so the exit actually faces the ground? This is so the sound waves hit the ground and are either absorbed or deflected everywhere, effectively and noticeably reducing exhaust noise.

Some people take this even further by having a side exhaust exiting from the opposite side of the car to where they know the noise meters are placed. A variation on this is to run one silenced side exit either side of the car, splitting the exhaust gas, and therefore the noise, 50-50 between each side.

Performance exhaust flames

It’s not uncommon to see a tuned car emitting flames from the exhaust, and the frequency this happens can be affected by the exhaust system. If you removed the entire exhaust from a car and revved the engine while looking at the exhaust ports you would see flames emitting from them on any engine. But the exhaust length and silencers make these flames invisible at the tailpipe.

On a more powerful car, especially one mapped to still inject fuel when off throttle, the flames can sometimes reach out of the tailpipe. Things like silencer boxes can reduce the chance of the flames a little. Conversely an exhaust that spits flames generally burns up the silencing material a little faster, reducing its effectiveness after a while.

As cool as exhaust flames look, the police really don’t like them, as our contributor Stav once found out in the past when he was handed a £750 fine for “Endangering the public”, and “Dangerous emissions from a motor vehicle” amongst other things due to his exhaust flames…

Do engines need backpressure?

Once again, the simple answer is no, despite the common myth saying otherwise. Fitting a huge exhaust system to certain cars may have bad effects, but this isn’t due to reducing backpressure. Backpressure is never a performance enhancer; you want as much exhaust gas out of your engine as quickly as possible. This means, especially on non-turbo cars, careful choice of pipe lengths and sizes so the exhaust gas moves as fast as possible out the exhaust.

On turbo cars it is simple, as manifold design has less effect and a huge post-turbo exhaust will only give gains with no losses. On non-turbo cars, although we won’t go into detail as it’s a hugely complex subject, any low down power lost isn’t down to lack of backpressure, it’s down to the diameter and scavenging effect of the new exhaust design moving the power band to higher in the rev range.

Screamer pipes

Most people will have heard of the term screamer pipe. It basically refers to a separate exhaust pipe coming from the wastegate of a turbo car. The “screamer” part of the name is due to this pipe normally being unsilenced and incredibly loud. As a wastegate doesn’t open until full boost, a screamer pipe wouldn’t cause any issues when driving normally.  Or for an MoT. But the noise is almost assured to get you black flagged on track.

There are two solutions to this. Either simply plumb the screamer pipe back into the rest of the system, which would quieten it down but potentially lose you power. Or keep the screamer pipe separate, but add a silencer or two to quieten it down. This option is the best for performance and noise reasons, but it adds significant extra cost and weight.

Performance exhaust emissions

Almost any car built in the last twenty years will need a catalytic converter fitted to pass an MoT emissions test. Unfortunately due to their design they are generally not very free flowing; exactly the opposite of what you want for performance. There are various ways of getting around this, namely a sports cat, a de-cat pipe, or a cat bypass valve.

A sports cat is the most effective solution. This basically means a larger freer flowing cat than the standard item, increasing flow without affecting your emissions. Unfortunately, sports cats are expensive and at high power levels can still pose a restriction, possibly necessitating the need for parallel sports cats.

The cheapest and simplest option is a de-cat pipe. This removes the cat altogether and replaces it with a straight piece of pipe. However, doing that will cause your car to fail any emissions testing. You’ll have to refit the cat come MoT time and hope you don’t get pulled over for a random emissions spot check. And besides, in this day and age, we need our cars to cause less pollution – not more…

The least common, but possibly the best overall solution, is to use an electronic or vacuum operated bypass valve. This lets the exhaust gas pass the restrictive silencer when needed, but travel through it when the car is being daily driven or checked for emissions.

Performance exhaust legalities

There is always a lot of discussion about the legality of exhausts, especially about where on the car they exit. Unfortunately, it is a real legal grey area. What one police officer or vehicle tester may be happy with, another may not. The reality is excessive noise is likely to get you noticed by the authorities, as will ones exiting from unusual places.

If you want the least bother, make your car as quiet and subtle as possible. But as long as they are quiet and safe enough, side exit exhausts, and even front bumper exits, are not illegal. Some vehicles come with both of these options as standard.

What are exhausts made of?

There are three types of materials commonly used in exhaust systems.  Mild steel, stainless steel, and titanium. Mild steel is by far the cheapest and is quite durable. However, due to its susceptibility to rust and stainless steel prices lowering, mild steel exhausts are rare.

Stainless steel is the most common type of exhaust material due to its resistance to rust. However, it can be brittle, especially on exhaust manifolds on turbocharged cars.

The final material is titanium which shares similar properties of stainless steel but actually weighs nearly half as much. This makes it the material of choice for serious race cars wanting to shed every last kilogram. The disadvantages of titanium include the fact that it’s very hard to weld properly, but most of all, cost. They’re generally around four times as much as a stainless system. So full titanium exhausts are rather rare and for big budget performance cars only.

Should I get a custom exhaust?

Although many people associate the words “custom exhaust system” with a one-liter Saxo fitted with a brace of six-inch tailpipes, the majority of big power cars will have had at least some of their exhaust system custom made. In fact, companies like Milltek are even developing fresh performance exhaust systems for new-age hybrid sports cars.

For many people custom exhaust components are fitted due to changes in the car’s turbo setup. There may also be a lack of adequate off the shelf parts, or they want to to make their current system a little quieter to pass track noise regulations.

There are countless custom exhaust manufacturers around the UK, all with varying equipment and skill levels. So, make sure they can build you the exact part you want at the correct size to avoid confusion. This is particularly true when it comes to larger bore piping, as not all companies are able to do it all. Need some inspiration? Check out some of the best sounding cars of all time.

Love modified cars? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment event series! 

The post Performance Exhaust Guide: It’s Not Just About Sound appeared first on Fast Car.

With our Fast Car event series in full flow, we’ve put together this complete guide to detailing your car to make sure that your car is not only being shown in its best light, but its bodywork is suitably protected as well. After all, detailing isn’t just about making a car clean, it’s also about ensuring its protected from the weather, road grime and other nasty bits of dirt then eventually lead to paintwork damage and in a worst case scenario, rust! Below, we’ll go through what car detailing is, the steps involved if you want to get the job done correctly both inside and outside, as well as comparing your detail at home to automated car washes and hand wash services as well as professional detailers. Finally, we’ll cover off some all important frequently asked questions when it comes to cleaning your car.

What is car detailing and why is it important?

Car detailing is the art of cleaning a car to a point at which it looks almost-new. It’s easy to give your car a quick wash and vacuum, but detailing transforms your car from looking OK to virtually new. It’s all about attention to detail, no pun intended. You can’t skip corners when it comes to car detailing. That means you need to cover off every area of your car, including your engine bay, tires and interior. It’s a step up from your regular car wash; you’ll need to introduce pre-washing, polishing, waxing and more.

It’s not just about looks, though. Car detailing also helps protect your car’s surfaces from the elements, and from wear and tear. Harsh grime and road salt can get trapped in the crevices of your car’s exterior, and if you allow all that muck to fester, it’ll eventually accumulate and start retaining water. From there, you’re staring at a slippery slope towards corrosion: the killer of cars.

So, if you want to keep your car looking and feeling like new, you’ve got to keep up with detailing to catch those finer areas which you might miss during a standard wash.

How to detail a car – which areas should I be cleaning?

Detailing a car is a skill. Doing it right, and in the correct order, not only means that your car is shining all year round, but it’ll also combat things like rust build up and paintwork damage. Besides, who wants to get into your car as a passenger if you’ve got dirty handles and snack packets in the footwell?

You don’t have to used a detailing service to get professional results either. Following these steps below, you’ll learn how to detail a car correctly at home.

Detailing wheels and tires

How long: 5-20 mins.
Products: Wheel cleaner.
Detailing gear: Bucket, grit guard, wheel brushes, tire brush.

Wheels and tires are the first things you should tackle when car detailing. This is because they tend to be the dirtiest areas. You don’t want to wash them after you’ve detailed the rest of your car. If you’re in a rush and your wheels aren’t too bad, you can get away with just spraying the wheel cleaner on and letting it dwell before rinsing it off, otherwise, you’ll want to use some wheel brushes to give the surfaces a thorough clean. A tire brush will help get your rubber clean and make sure you use a separate bucket with water to rinse off your brushes as you go.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to clean your alloy wheels so you can perfect the process. You can also check out the best alloy wheel cleaners on the market right now.

Pre-washing a car / decontamination stage

How long: 10-30 mins.
Products: Pre-wash spray, snow foam.
Detailing gear: Soft detailing brushes, foam cannon.

When we think about what is car detailing, we immediately think about washing the car. But prepping the surface before using shampoo is essential for the ultimate shine. Done correctly, the pre-wash stage of car detailing will remove enough dirt to make the actual washing stage a breeze. A good pre-wash spray, like an MPC or citrus product, should be applied to the dirtiest areas of the car, like the lower portions of the panels, and allowed to dwell before you apply the snow foam. While this dwells, use your soft detailing brush on the window rubbers and badges before rinsing everything off.

If your car isn’t too dirty, and you’re short on time, go straight in with the snow foam. You’ll still get good results.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to pre-wash your car so you can perfect the process. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best snow foam.

Washing a car

How long: 20-40 mins.
Products: Shampoo.
Detailing gear: Wash mitts, two buckets, grit guards.

The detailing essentials here are your two buckets, both equipped with grit guards, and one or more microfiber wash mitts. Having two buckets helps to keep your wash water cleaner. The grit guards help to keep heavier particles at the bottom of the buckets. This prevents them from getting onto your wash mitt and potentially causing damage. Wash mitts, ideally microfiber ones, effectively lift dirt away and trap it, so it won’t scratch your paint while you wash.

Always wash from the top (the cleanest area on the car) to the bottom (the dirtiest); you can even use a dedicated wash mitt on the lower areas and another for your exhaust tips.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to wash your car so you can perfect the process. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best car shampoos.

Drying a car

How long: 10-30 mins.
Detailing gear: Drying towels.

The key to drying your car thoroughly, is using the biggest, most absorbent drying towel you can find. This will make your job so much easier. One of these will suck up the water far more effectively than other types of towels and cloths. This will leave you with fewer streaks and water spots. Again, it’s always best to dry from the top down. It’s also a good idea to have a spare towel to hand in case your first starts getting waterlogged and stops drying as well as it should.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to dry your car so you can perfect the process. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best car drying towel.

Applying tire shine

How long: 5-10 mins.
Products: Tire dressing.
Detailing gear: Applicator, cloths.

Applying tire shine doesn’t just leave your tires looking lovely and black. It also helps to keep your sidewalls looking cleaner for longer and protects the rubber from UV damage. It doesn’t take long to do and is always worthwhile. The quickest and simplest products to use are aerosols that you simply spray on and leave. Gels need to be applied directly to the tire by hand. If you’re not a fan of high-shine finishes, don’t worry, most tire dressing products can be applied in a way that will leave you with either a glossy or matt finish.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to apply tire shine so you can perfect the process. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best tire dressings.

Detailing a car’s engine bay

How long: 20 mins+.
Products: Multi-purpose cleaner.
Detailing gear: Detailing brushes, microfiber cloths.

The engine bay is one area of any car that very few people think about cleaning. However, it can get pretty mucky under the bonnet, so it’s worth keeping on top of alongside your car detail. You can go pretty full-on, opting for steam cleaning or even snow-foaming your engine. But, the simplest and safest way to keep your bay clean is with some MPC and some detailing brushes. This will allow you to shift grease and grime, instantly getting your engine bay looking that much cleaner and shinier with minimum effort.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to clean your engine bay so you can perfect the process.

Using a clay bar on a car

How long: 2 hours+.
Products: Clay bar, quick detailer.
Detailing gear: Microfiber cloths.

What is car detailing without a little elbow grease? Claying your car isn’t something you’ll be doing often. It should, ideally, always be followed up with paint correction, as the process can mar the surface of your car’s bodywork. Clay is incredibly sticky and will lift dirt and contaminants that have adhered to your paintwork, which washing alone won’t remove. You’ll be amazed at just how much dirt claying will remove, especially on a car that’s never been clayed before, and it will leave the surface of your paint incredibly smooth to the touch.

Take your time, don’t rush, and do each section carefully and thoroughly. If you are in a hurry, you can use clay mitts and cloths, many of which only need to be used with shampoo rather than quick detailer, and these will deliver good results but can be a little aggressive, meaning clay bars are still the best choice.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to use a clay bar on your car so you can perfect the process.

Polishing and paint correction car detailing

How long: 3 hours+.
Products: Correction compound, polish.
Detailing gear: Dual-action polisher, cutting pads/discs, polishing pads/discs, paint-depth gauge.

Paint correction might seem intimidating, but done correctly and with care, you can get exceptional results. It’s not a step you should be skipping if you want the ultimate car detail. This process involves using a cutting compound to remove the microscopic layers of lacquer that have swirls and imperfections in. This leaves your paint looking incredibly shiny, with stunning depth and crystal-clear reflections. A dual-action polisher makes the job that much easier, and the action of the head means that it’s very safe to use, making it almost impossible to damage the paint.

If you’re serious about the job, you can use a paint-depth gauge to make sure your paint isn’t too thin.

The general rule of thumb is to always start with the least aggressive compound on the softest pad, which will give you an idea of whether you need to go to a more aggressive combination if you’re not getting good results initially. You’ll be working your way across your car’s bodywork, section by section. You never want to try to correct too large a portion at once; it’s always better to work in smaller, more manageable sections and always take your time.

If your paint is bad, it might need multiple passes to remove the worst of the swirls. Once you’re done with correcting the paint, polishing will help to refine the finish, leaving you with stunning paintwork.

Check out our guide to paint correction for more advice. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best car polishes.

Waxing a car

How long: 20 mins+.
Products: Paste/liquid/spray wax.
Detailing gear: Applicator, microfiber cloths.

Waxing your car will enhance the gloss and shine of your paintwork, as well as helping to protect it and keep it cleaner for longer. Paste wax is the more traditional choice, but it requires a bit more work as you have to spread it over the whole car by hand, let it cure and then buff it off, so it’s a bit of a workout. Burning a few extra calories while you’re detailing your car isn’t such a bad thing now, is it?

Liquid waxes are much quicker to apply, and you will often find the same version of paste waxes in liquid form. While you still have to apply the wax by hand, applying a liquid is obviously much quicker and easier than a paste. Finally, spray waxes are ideal for those who want the gloss and shine, but without taking all that time and effort, and these days you don’t have to compromise as the latest spray waxes offer incredible durability and protection.

Remember to always wax out of direct sunlight, go section by section, and have a handful of microfiber cloths to hand to make removal and buffing easier.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to wax a car so you can perfect the process. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best car waxes.

Maintenance car detailing

How long: 30 mins+.
Products: Quick detailer.
Detailing gear: Microfiber cloths.

Attempting to detail your car’s paintwork between washes might sound like a terrible idea, but as long as your car isn’t too dirty and it’s done carefully, you can get your car’s paint looking lovely with just a little effort. The key is to be gentle and take your time, using liberal sprays of quick detailer to lubricate the bodywork, then gently wiping with the microfiber cloth to lift the dust and dirt away. It’s the perfect way to keep your car clean in between washes while also adding an extra layer of protection via the quick detailer.

Be sure to check out our guide on how to maintenance wash a car.

Interior car cleaning

How long: 20mins+.
Products: Interior cleaner, carpet cleaner, leather cleaner.
Detailing gear: Detailing brushes, carpet and upholstery brush, microfiber cloths, vacuum cleaner.

The state of your interior will naturally dictate how long it will take to clean, but the good thing is that you can obviously do as much or as little as you need and as you have time to do. While vacuuming your carpets is a given, it’s also a good idea to vacuum in the creases of your seats to get all those little bits of dirt that are stuck in there. Cleaning your leather seats is one thing, but never underestimate just how dirty your leather steering wheel gets.

Some leather cleaner, a brush and a microfiber cloth will remove so much grime and leave your wheel looking and feeling much nicer. Don’t forget your door and dash trims, too, and some time with a detailing brush and interior cleaner will shift dirt you can’t even see and get your interior feeling so much fresher and nicer.

Check out our detailed guide on how to clean your car’s interior for more advice. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best interior detailer.

Headlight restoration

How long: 20 mins+.
Products: Headlight lens restoration kit.
Detailing gear: Drill.

Ugly, faded, cloudy yellow plastic headlight lenses not only look ugly, but they also reduce light output, so restoring them is well worth the effort. The easiest way to do this is using a kit that includes everything you need – some will come with a drill attachment that makes polishing off the yellow layer that much easier, while others are designed for hand application. The key is to apply a protective coating after polishing, as otherwise, UV damage will cause them to turn yellow again, so look for a kit that already includes that and never skip that step.

Check out our step-by-step guide on how to clean car headlights. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best headlight restoration kit.

Car glass cleaning

How long: 10 mins+.
Products: Glass cleaner.
Detailing gear: Microfiber cloths.

Washing your car will clean the glass, naturally, but it won’t be as clean as when you do it yourself properly and don’t forget about the inside of your glass, too. Depending on how dirty your glass is and how deep a clean you want to administer, you can go so far as claying your glass to remove contaminants that are really bonded onto the surface. You can also use glass polish, which will also help to deliver a deeper clean than just glass cleaner on its own. And, once you’re done with the glass on the outside, make sure you take the time to clean the inside as well, as it gets dirty too and will impair your vision.

For more advice, check out our step-by-step guide on how to clean car windows. Looking for the best products? Check out our guide to the best car glass cleaner.

Car trim restorer

How long: 15 mins+.
Products: Trim restorer.
Detailing gear: Applicator pad.

Faded black plastic trim looks awful, turning grey or white over time, and it can really ruin the appearance of your car. Luckily, restoring it to its former glory is quick and easy, and all you need is some trim restorer and an applicator, and you are good to go. Which is why we’ve mentioned here in our what is car detailing guide. It won’t be permanent, but it’s so easy to do that it’s no big deal to re-do it whenever your trim starts fading again.

Check out our guide on how to restore black trim on a car for more advice.

Metal polish

How long: 10 mins+.
Products: Metal polish.
Detailing gear: Microfiber cloths.

Getting the perfect finish on the metal elements on your car adds that final touch. All you need is your metal polish of choice and some microfiber cloths, plus a little elbow grease, and not only will you get those metal surfaces looking instantly better, but you’ll also help them to stay shinier and cleaner for longer.

Check out our guide on how to polish metal on a car for more advice.

DIY car detailing vs hiring a professional detailer

Depending on the condition of your vehicle, if you’re keen to put the time in, you can get some fantastic results detailing your car at home. This is especially true if you’ve got your hands on the right products and equipment to get the job done. This means you’ll want products for each area of the car listed above, as well as things like microfiber cloths, two buckets, wash mitt, wheel brush, a drying towel and applicators for your wax/polish. This is the minimum if you want to do a good job at home, which means there are some initial costs. To take it to the next level, you’ll need a machine buffer for applying polish.

With that in mind, it all depends on the condition of your vehicle. If it’s relatively new, or has been maintained well over the years, then you should be able to deliver all you need from home. However, for cars that require more paint correction, hiring a detailing professional can bring your car up to showroom condition. That level of service doesn’t come cheap, however. The very basic detailing services will costs around $/£50, but this figure can quite easily climb to over $/£500 depending on the condition of the vehicle and the time taken for paint correction. This would usually be called restorative car detailing at this stage, as this is reserved for the very worst condition cars.

Remember, though, professional car detailers are not magicians, so you’ve got significant bodywork damage, no amount of polish will buff that out.

Automated car washes vs. washing your car at home

Now, before we properly get started, you might be wondering why we don’t suggest just using one of those automated car washes you see at the gas station. After all, the take the hassle out of the job, right?

True. But at what cost? Truth be told, if you want to clean your car well, a automated car wash is NOT the way to do it. There’s a ton of reasons for this. Firstly, those big spinning cloths that envelope the car as it passes through the automated tunnel aren’t exactly the gentlest of devices. As such, they’ll typically leave your car with swirl marks, and potentially paint chips too. Heck, we’ve even heard horror stories about those brutish spinners ripping of antennas or damaging bodywork trim. Though admittedly, modern automated car washes pose less of a risk of such dramatic results than they did when the technology was new.

Nowadays, there are also some automated car washes which use touchless water jets. This eradicates the potential harm caused by a massive spinning brush, but to make up for its potency, touchless car washes tend to utilize harsher chemicals in the shampoo that they use. As a one-off, or very infrequent solution, this is unlikely to do real damage. But, if you get lazy and repeatedly rely on these touchless systems in the long-term, don’t be surprised if you eventually notice your clear coat starting to peel away. On top of that, these facilities tend not to have drying equipment, which will leave you with a bunch of annoying water marks every time you detail your car.

Verdict

Ultimately, while an automated car wash may be tempting as a quick and easy solution, it’ll never be as thorough or gentle as a traditional hand wash at home. And trust us, even if you’re not a fan of manual labor, car detailing doesn’t have to be a nightmare.

Not only that, but automated car washes completely ignore your car’s interior. After all, you spend most of your time inside the car, so why shouldn’t that be detailed to as high a standard? Pick up your vacuum, some interior detailing spray and go to work with your microfiber cloth.

Car detailing FAQs answered!

We’ve already answered what is car detailing, but what else do people ask? Here, we’ll answer some of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to car detailing. Splitting myths from reality, and explaining why you need two buckets, not one.

Should you use two buckets or one bucket washing your car?

90-percent of swirl marks are inflicted during the washing process. Using two buckets allows you to have one bucket with the shampoo solution in and a separate rinse bucket with a grit guard at the bottom. This means the mitt is clean when it goes into solution and then on to the car, this drastically reduces the chance of swirl marks in the contact washing process.

What is clay barring? Isn’t this something best left to the professionals?

Claying is probably the best investment in time when it comes to preparing your car’s paintwork. Clay is basically a reset button for the upper surface of your paint. If your car feels rough to the touch after a wash, then clay is for you. It will remove all above-surface contaminants such as overspray, traffic film, wax, everything! Allowing you to assess the surface and then attack those swirls marks!

Apart from making your tires look like new, are there any other benefits to using tire shine?

This is always a hard topic as it’s personal preference. Some people don’t like them dressed, some like a high gloss finish and others are somewhere in the middle.

Can you use dish soap to wash your car?

No. Don’t do this. While it’s very good at removing food and grime from your dishes, it’s no good on your car. In fact, the same degreases eat away at any wax or sealant you have on the car, leaving your paintwork exposed to damage. Avoid the dish soap!

Can detailing your car too often damage the paintwork?

No. We’re not sure where this myth came from, but it’s certainly not true. In fact, the dirt and grime that builds up over the course of a week of driving is more damaging to your paintwork then cleaning it. This is provided you’re cleaning your car correctly, as incorrect methods can lead to paintwork damage such as swirl marks.

Is it worth investing in a pressure washer?

If you like an easy life, yeah, I would. Car cleaning isn’t much fun without one and they tend to use far less water than a normal hose anyway.

Click here to browse some of the best on the market.

Is 100 percent carnauba the best wax I can buy?

Despite some manufacturers’ claims, no car wax is 100 per cent carnauba. You wouldn’t be able to use it – carnauba is about as solid as concrete in its natural form. Most car wax products have a natural wax content, like carnauba, and the rest is a mixture of solvents and other additives that make it possible to apply and enhance its properties. Of course, you can have a product that only contains carnauba and no other type of natural wax, as well as all the other stuff, and clever marketing could say that’s ‘100 percent carnauba’. But the wax will never be 100 percent of the whole product.

Here’s a guide to the best car waxes in 2023.

Are spray-on tire dressings better than paint-on ones?

There are good tire dressings and there are not so good ones. Silicone solvent-based shines are more suited to brush or sponge application, because you don’t want them misting all over your paint. Water-based dressings are better to spray on because they won’t smear on paint and are more easily absorbed into the tire. The thing to look out for is something that’s high shearing. This means it actually gets thicker as your wheels spin, so it’s less likely to splatter all up the side of your car. Low shear tire shines get thinner, and that’s not ideal.

What’s the best way to care for my vehicle wrap?

Mainly regular washing. Unlike paint, vinyl wraps won’t benefit from abrasive polishes. I suppose technically you could wax a gloss wrap, but that would depend on the solvents and other ingredients used in your wax. You can use quick detailers on both gloss and matt wraps along with matt paint surfaces, but always read the label on your product and, if in any doubt, ask first.

Is there actually a real difference between wax and polish?

A huge difference. A polish is an abrasive. Not an aggressive abrasive like a compound, but abrasive enough to clean and refine paintwork. It’s a preparation product, whereas a wax is a protectant. No true wax is abrasive, it’s just there as a sacrificial layer to protect your paint… along with all the hard work and preparation you’ve put in.

We’ve done a full guide on the differences between wax polish right here.

How often should I wax my car?

A good quality wax or sealant should last up to three months, but you shouldn’t wait that long to clean your car. Personally I’d recommend cleaning and waxing or sealing once a month, to build up a good barrier to the elements. After three or four applications you’ll hit a nice plateau of protection.

For more advice, check out our full guide on how often should you wax a car.

Do I need a special type of wheel cleaner for polished wheels?

It’s definitely important to check that your wheel cleaner is safe for your particular wheel finish. There are basically three types of wheel cleaner. Traditional acidic cleaners have plenty of power for melting away baked-on brake dust and can be used on the majority of painted and clear-coated rims. That said they are generally corrosive and not something you’d want to use all the time. Never use these on chrome, polished or other sensitive surfaces.

Check out our guide to the best alloy wheel cleaners.

What is an LSP in car detailing?

One of those annoying industry buzzwords. It means Last Stage Protection and refers to the waxes or sealants you apply in the last stage of car detailing. Your paint’s final barrier to the elements.

How do I use snow foam?

Snow foam is great stuff and can be used either through a foam lance on a pressure washer or even a cheap garden sprayer. The idea is that you spray the diluted foam all over your car, wait a few minutes while it breaks down and lifts off dirt, then rinse off, so you can go on with your sponge and shampoo. There’s two types to be aware of – alkaline and PH neutral snow foams. Alkaline foam is great for cleaning bug splats and fuel stains, but is pretty harsh and can damage wax or sealant layers. That’s why I’d only recommend those for professional use, or for the guys trying to get right back to the paint. PH neutral foams are a little milder and safer for continued use, like a nice dusting in the summer, and won’t strip waxes.

Check out our guide to using snow foam like a pro here.

What is a ‘non-stripping’ shampoo?

I suppose that means it claims it doesn’t strip wax or sealants. But then no shampoo should strip wax or sealants anyway. Technically speaking, every car shampoo should be ‘non-stripping’. But be sure you’re using the best, check out our guide to the best car shampoo.

What is a sealant?

A sealant is synthetic material developed to protect your paint, basically a man-made version of a wax. Waxes are a natural product, whereas a sealant will be a mixture of manufactured fortified polymers. Some prefer using sealants to waxes, some prefer waxes and some like to use both. As to which are best? It’s all down to personal preference. Neither is going to hurt.

How do I use an electric polisher?

They can be a minefield especially in the DIY market. If you must use one at home firstly only use a very mild compound, not an aggressive one. Secondly look at the type of polisher. I wouldn’t recommend a rotary polisher. Many on the market spin way too fast and it’s far too easy to melt the paint and rip the pad off if you don’t keep it moving – I’ve done it myself! You don’t have the same problems with a DA (dual action) polisher as you’ve got much more control, but they can be very expensive for a good one. Polishers are very effective if you know what you’re doing, but don’t forget you’ve only got the lacquer layer to work with. If you’re down to the paint that’s way too far.

Should I use a chamois leather on my car?

It’s much better to dry your car with a clean microfiber cloth. Dragging a chamois over the surface of your paint isn’t always the best. Many are treated with oils that can leave a nasty smear that you’ll have to buff off. Microfiber cloths are cheap enough and much easier to clean. Just remember to chuck them in the washing machine when you’re done.

The post Car Detailing: What Is It and How To Do It Properly appeared first on Fast Car.

The Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 went back to fast Ford roots of sticking a big engine in a little car; then, stiffening up the chassis, and sending it down the road for some chuckable-yet-useable fun. It really was the XR2 reincarnated in the 2000s.

And, just like the XR2, the chassis underneath can easily cope with more power than the stock 2.0-litre Duratec’s 150bhp (hence the ST150 tag). Also, just like the XR2, tuning the engine gives significant improvements, either in screaming naturally-aspirated guise or gulping down wads of boost from a forced-induction conversion. But, because technology improves over time, the rewards on offer from a well-tuned ST150 far outweigh anything Ford’s earlier hot hatches could ever hope to muster.

Over the years we’ve seen plenty of fast-road conversion with around 200bhp combined with sensible chassis and braking upgrades. In more recent times, more ST owners have turned to adding boost to give some quite crazy power figures for a little Fiesta, initially with bolt-on supercharger kits, but latterly with full-blown big-turbo installations. That’s before we mention the abundance of engine swapped cars out there. And, of course, the Mk6 ST has always been capable on track, and we’ve seen plenty of track and full-on race cars embarrass much more powerful machinery on circuits thanks to an uncompromising and incredibly nimble chassis setup.

Or, like most people, you could combine your perfect blend of all of the above to create an ST that is unique, fits your needs and reflects your personality perfectly. Here’s our comprehensive guide to tuning the Ford Fiesta ST Mk6.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Engine tuning

The ST’s 2.0-litre Duratec is a robust engine, and as long as you keep an eye on the oil levels regularly (it does like a drink) you can get stuck in straight away with the upgrades. If you want to be sensible, the first upgrade should really be a power steering relocation kit; it won’t gain you any power or improve performance but will stop the original setup spitting its PAS fluid all over the engine bay at high revs. And when you start tuning, you’ll want higher revs. Some tuners recommend an oil cooler upgrade for similar reasons.

When the car was new, Mountune offered warranty-friendly performance packages in the shape of MP165 and MP185 tuning kits. Complete kits are no longer available, but some of the key components (such as the air filter kit) are. That’s your starting point when tuning the MK6 Fiesta ST: engine breathing. The original airbox is an awkward and unsightly beast, not to mention restrictive. Bin that in favour of a K&N 57i kit, ITG foam induction kit, or the Mountune cold air induction system, and you’ll free up some grunt immediately, but more importantly, lay the foundations for things to come.

With fresh air coming in, it’s then time to focus on getting the exhaust gases out. Cat-back exhaust systems give added audible appeal, but for more meaningful gains, consider a sports cat from Scorpion, Piper or Milltek or even a decat if you intend to use the car off-road.

Add a suitable remap to the mix and you can expect to see around 165-to-170bhp – plus a much more enthusiastic driving experience – from these simple upgrades.

Camshafts

The next step is to add a set of fast-road cams as Mountune did with the MP185 kit. A tried-and-tested profile is the Cosworth 200-spec camshaft kit; fit without the need to change valve springs, and will produce up to 200bhp with supporting mods. Other profiles from the likes of Newman Cams and Piper Cams are also available, as are double valve springs for cam kits with very high lift.

For cams like those, you’ll be looking at building a high-spec naturally-aspirated engine, and the next restrictions are the inlet manifold and throttle body. Mountune fitted a unique inlet on its top-spec MR200 tuning upgrade for the ST, as did Cosworth with the 200 kit. The former is no longer available new, but replica Cosworth items are available from tuners like Jamsport and SiCo Developments, while Pumaspeed offers its own similar version.

With a suitable remap, this will take power to around 190/200bhp. This power is the sweet-spot for fast-road applications. If you’re looking to retain some degree of originality, get off here.

Naturally-aspirated Tuning

If you’re looking for more power, you now face two distinct options. Stick with naturally-aspirated tuning or add some boost by way of a supercharger or turbocharger conversion.

Sticking with naturally-aspirated tuning, a set of throttle bodies comes next. Many of these require a stand-alone ECU, but there are kits available that work with the ST’s drive-by-wire throttle, working work with a remap on the stock ECU. You’ll see over 200bhp, but you’re into the realms of diminishing returns and every extra horsepower will become more expensive and time-consuming to extract. That said, with a 2.3-litre bottom end, ported and big-valve head, lairy cams and enormous throttle bodies, over 300bhp is possible. This is usually reserved for race cars where 2.0-litre naturally-aspirated regulations are extreme.

An easier way to reach similar power levels – and beyond – in a road car would be to switch to forced induction.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 forced induction tuning

While the ST’s Duratec engine will make for an excellent, high-revving, throttle-bodied howler capable of delivering over 300bhp without a boost gauge in sight, getting there is neither cheap nor easy. But converting to forced induction is surprisingly simpler than it sounds.

Jamsport launched several bolt-on supercharger kits for the Mk6 ST using centrifugal Rotrex units. A stock Duratec will take 300bhp on standard internals, plus because of the linear nature of boost delivery based on engine speed, these conversions even worked perfectly well on the factory ECU. A supercharger would work on an otherwise stock ST, but best results come when adding cams, exhaust systems and inlets. Even more is achievable when you throw in some uprated internals and a bigger blower.

Supercharger conversions retain that naturally-aspirated feeling behind the wheel, but for the biggest jump in performance you can’t beat a turbocharger. There are many different routes available, and it’s all custom-build stuff so not really an off-the-shelf kind of upgrade. As such, your engine builder or tuner can work with turbo choice, cam profiles, engine spec, and a whole host of other variables tailored to what you want. Big power is possible, and we’ve seen STs knocking on the door of 500bhp with well-spec’d turbo conversions.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Transmission tuning

The Mk6 Fiesta ST came fitted with Ford’s common IB5 gearbox. It may lack the sixth speed of more modern transmissions, but it’s so short-geared you don’t really need another. The stock IB5 might not be the slickest ‘box Ford ever fitted, but it will cope with most you’ll throw its way, especially if sticking with naturally-aspirated tuning.

The ST lacks a limited-slip differential, though. And while the IB5 ‘box is strong enough, the stock diff has been known to break. And when it breaks it usually disintegrates and takes out the entire gearbox. An uprated limited-slip diff like Quaife’s ATB is an ideal solution for most road cars, but track and race cars might prefer a more aggressive plated-type from Gripper or 3J Driveline.

The standard clutch and flywheel are adequate for most power increases up to around 200bhp (providing they’re in good health), but for anything more you’ll need an upgrade. Helix offers various options: uprated organic for road use, or heavy-duty paddle clutch kits for track and race.

For boosted cars, a beefier gearbox like the MTX-75 is essential. It’s not a straight swap, though, and will need modifications to the engine bay, along with a different clutch plate to suit the input shaft. You’ll need that limited-slip differential now too.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 suspension tuning

Developed by Ford’s TeamRS division at the Nürburgring, the Mk6 Fiesta ST has fantastic handling straight out of the box. It’s fun, playful and communicative; exactly as a hot hatch should be. It does sit too high, though.

You’re unlikely to see many STs with original springs these days, but if yours has then a set of lowering springs from Eibach are the answer; the lower stance not only looks better but it helps performance a little too. The best option is to couple the springs with matched updated dampers; Bilstein’s B12 kit has long been a favourite of ours and works exceptionally well on the Mk6 ST.

So well, in fact, for a fast-road car there isn’t any real need for coilovers – certainly not budget types that will hinder rather than help performance and ride quality. If you’re a track fan you may find that the adjustable settings and stiffer spring rates of a set of a quality coilovers are helpful for perfecting the handling package; ASTs are said to be the best for the Mk6 ST. I’ve had first hand experience with ST’s coilover package for the Mk6 and found it to be a great balance between road and track use without breaking the bank.

Polyurethane bush upgrades from SuperPro or Powerflex are wise investments to replace worn rubber units and stiffen the chassis. Add a performance rear anti-roll bar from Whiteline, and rear axle spacers at the same time, and you’ll have a decent little setup.

Dedicated track and race cars have the option of full roll cages, motorsport-spec rose-jointed suspension components to really stiffen things up, but often are too much of a compromise for any road car. Air ride has been used to great effect on show cars too.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 brake tuning

Don’t think the seemingly small diameter 258mm front brakes are no good; when combined with decent fast-road compound brake pads, uprated discs, and braided lines they’re perfectly adequate for fast road use. In fact, the Fiesta ST Championship used to run them, so they are proven to work on track too.

There is a cheap and easy upgrade, though: fitting Focus ST170 300mm discs with Mk3 Mondeo callipers. This is a fantastic upgrade that makes a notable difference on a very small budget – they work even better with uprated discs, pads and lines.

Another in-house upgrade is to use the Brembo four-pot callipers from a Mk1 Focus RS. You’ll need suitable brackets, but they’ll clear the stock 17in rims when you add a set of wheel spacers.

Perhaps the best option, though, is a proper aftermarket big brake kit. There’s plenty of options from the usual suspects such as AP Racing, K-Sport and Hi-Spec, offering various diameters; and that’s crucial because for a track car you’ll want to drop an inch or two on wheel size to optimise handling.

At the rear, there’s no need for anything fancy. Simple disc and pad upgrades are effective, but if you want bigger discs, then fitting the ST170’s carriers to the Fiesta callipers allows you to run 270mm rears within the stock wheels.

Interior

The stock half-leather ST seats are comfy and supportive enough for day-to-day use, but for enthusiastic driving and the odd track day you’ll want something that can hold you in place a little better. Mountune fitted a set of Recaro Sportster CS seats (the same as found in the Mk2 Focus RS) to the demo car back in the day (which we later robbed for our own project ST) and they were perfect; comfy enough to use on long journeys, but more than supportive enough for fast road thrills and a spot of track day fun. These, with the rear seats deleted and maybe a half-cage, will give an excellent clubsport vibe that many owners are looking for.

But they are expensive. And seemingly fitted to every modified Ford these days. So, for something a little different, one of the reclining bucket seats from specialists like Corbeau could be the answer. Especially as these allow the use of performance four-point harnesses when on track, or the factory three-point seatbelt for comfort and practicality on the road. Dedicated track and race cars will look to lightweight carbon/Kevlar FIA-approved race seats and matching harnesses.

Wheels & Tyres for the Mk6 Fiesta ST

The stock 17in multi-spokes were funky when the ST launched, but they do look a little dated today. And they’re heavy. Very heavy.

In a test Fast Ford conducted a few years ago we weighed the stock alloys and tyres at a whopping 20.87kg each. In the same test, we weighed a similarly sized set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s with the same tyres, and they tipped the scales at 17.6kg. That’s a 12kg reduction. And they say that 1kg of unsprung weight is worth 4kg of chassis weight, which means that’s the same as removing a massive 48kg!

So, the first thing is to ditch the stock alloys for something lighter. Many cast alloys offer significant weight savings over stock, but forged alloys will give the biggest gains.

It’s also the perfect opportunity to play around with offsets and increase width to fit a fatter tyre. Most road cars stick with 17s or drop to 16s, but most dedicated track and race cars go even smaller to 15in diameter wheels as this gives the best handling characteristics on the Mk6.

As for tyres, Toyo’s R888R is a firm favourite for track use, but any quality tyre will do. Just don’t fit budget rubber and undo all that excellent work on the chassis and upgrades.

Check out our guide to best aftermarket wheels.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 styling upgrades

The funky styling and chunky arches on the Mk6 Fiesta have something of a retro appeal these days. Despite the Mk6 Fiesta only being a teenager, car designs have changed so much through the 2010s and into the 2020s that the ST has a decidedly old-school feel to its aesthetics. There’s no need to improve on what Ford gave us, other than maybe removing any twin stripes if they were fitted, as they do look dated by modern standards. Lairy kits and massive rear wings are all available, of course, but a more subtle approach with a lowline kit and front splitter is preferred by many.

If you’ve got to this point in our Mk6 Fiesta ST tuning guide then the chances are you love a modified Ford. The good news for you is that we host both Ford Fair and Ford Fest, two of the best Ford shows around. We also happen to host Trax at Silverstone, too, which means you’ll get to mix it up with other marques too. Be sure to check out the Fast Car event series for more information. 

The post Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Adam Pope’s Fiesta Mk3 RS turbo

We doubt this car needs any introduction, after all, it’s been shared around social media more times than an Only Fans model. It is of course Adam Pope’s incredible RS Turbo. This little Mk3 Fiesta has been featured twice on Fast Ford magazine, with its latest update featuring a 335bhp ZVH engine, complete with a gnarly looking Owen Developments GT3071HTA turbocharger.

It’s not all about the engine, either. It’s got the chassis to match the performance thanks to a Clubsport inspiration. Inside you’ll find a roll cage, harnesses, fire extinguishers and more. Or less. Well, less is certainly more here.

Make sure you snap some shots of Adam’s Fiesta RS Turbo at Ford Fair on Sunday, August 11th, it truly is one of the best modified Fords in the scene right now! You can check out the full feature on the Mk3 Fiesta right here.

John Easton’s Mk2 Focus ST

Phwoar, now this is a bit of old school right here. No, not that old school, you’re forgetting it’s 2024, not 2014… Back in the ’90s and early 00s, Lamborghini doors (or scissor doors, whichever you prefer) were the in-trend thing. It didn’t matter that you didn’t have the Raging Bull on the bonnet, these were fitted to Novas, 205s, Saxos, pretty much anything. Then one day, all of a sudden, they were no longer cool. Maybe it was Pimp My Ride that saw its decline? Whatever it was, John decided enough was enough, and brought a flavour of the ’90s to 2024 with his Mk2 Focus ST.

Merging retro styling with your typical modern day Ford tuning, the combined package is a 330bhp hot hatch that can sit on the ground at the push of a button and ooze coolness. Different is an understatement. And for all you lot saying “we’re bored of seeing the same Mk2 ST and RS Focuses at Ford Fair”, well John’s sticking his middle finger up in the name of individualism. Kudos John, we love it!

Want to read the full feature? Then check out John’s bagged Mk2 Focus ST right here.

James Edge’s X-Pack Mk2 Escort F20C

If the last car wasn’t old school enough for you, then this one certainly will be. Except if you’re a purist, you might want to look away now. If there’s one thing we love at Fast Car, it’s a car with an engine swap that really shouldn’t be there.

You see what James has done here is combined one of the world’s greatest naturally-aspirated engines of all time, the F20C from the Honda S2000, and shoved it straight under the bonnet of his Mk2 Escort. And as if the standard 240hp wasn’t enough from the F20C, he then decided to turbocharge it. For someone like James, though, who’s confessed to having owned over 150 modified cars over the years, this isn’t out of the ordinary. He’s a proper car enthusiast.

Peak inside and you’ll spot Bride seats, which for many JDM enthusiasts is enough to make them weak at the knees. Then you only have to glance over the bodywork to spot the carbon fibre additions. Chassis-wise it has a custom suspension setup comprising of Gaz coilvoers and Hallscorts rear leaf springs with adjustable top mounts. And when it comes to slowing down, AP 4-pot calipers do the job perfectly. If you want to dive into more details on this car, then check out James’s Mk2 Escort feature here.

While Ford was busy bringing back the Capri as an electric car, James was showing the world what can be done when you revive an old Ford correctly. And yes, that includes the Japanese engine too! Don’t miss seeing one of the best modified Fords in the UK at Silverstone this August 11th.

Geraint James’ Mk7 Fiesta ST

“Oh god, is that a Mk7 Fiesta ST on air, another original build then”. Shhh. When you hear the story about the life this Mk7 Fiesta ST has had, then you might think twice about saying that statement again. While it’s no lie that the current top modifying trend is air ride and some cool wheels, this Fiesta ST goes far beyond that. What started life as essentially a back-road hair-raiser, has blossomed into a clean show car build. It’s lived a hard life, but under Geraint’s ownership, has shown its tender side, perfectly highlighting that the Fiesta ST can indeed do it all. Oh, don’t think Geraint doesn’t let things get a little spicy behind the wheel, after all, it’s still got 250bhp on tap…

You can read the full feature on Geraint’s Mk7 Fiesta ST here.

More modified Fords on the Fast Ford stand

Fast Ford editor Dan Bevis has put together an awesome mix of cars for the show. While we’ve selected some of the best modified Fords above, we thought we chuck some honourable mentions down below. Don’t forget, Ford Fair 2024 is a sell-out event. That means there’ll be over 3000 cars on display, with busy track sessions throughout the day. If you haven’t already secured your public ticket, then now’s your chance! You can find out more about what’s happening at Ford Fair 2024 right here, or head to the event website to purchase your public tickets here.

Chris Beachim’s Escort RS Turbo S2

Simon Tudor’s bagged Mk3 Focus RS

Sophie Irvine-Dunnett’s Mk6 Fiesta TDCi

Martyn Lowe’s Mountune MR200 Fiesta

Alan Williams’ Cosworth Mk1 Focus

The post Best Modified Fords On Display At Ford Fair 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Microfiber cloths are essential when it comes to detailing your car. Everyone should have a big old pile of them ready for all occasions. Whether you’re buffing, polishing, wiping, cleaning, or anything else, the right microfiber cloth will make your job so much easier. There’s a mind-boggling amount to choose from, so we’ve done the hard work for you and picked out our favorite microfiber car cloths.

For this guide, we focused on versatile cloths that can do everything well, meaning you’ll only need one cloth for all your automotive tasks.

What is a microfiber car cloth?

Put simply, it’s a cloth made from microfibers that tends to be soft, and absorbent, which can be used in a multitude of scenarios. Here, we’re focusing on its use on cars. But that’s not to say you couldn’t use them around your house, for example. Although be warned, some cloths aren’t as soft as others and could damage your paintwork.

Microfiber car cloths are an essential detailing tool. You’ll need one during all of your final detailing stages, for example cleaning the windows, or while using quick detailer or interior spray, waxing/polishing etc. When you’re cleaning the exterior of your car with finishing products, its always best to use a cloth that is soft and plush, but also one that is absorbent. We’ll go onto how to buy the best microfiber cloths at the bottom of this guide.

It’s also important to know the different between microfiber car cloths and microfiber drying towels. While both are designed to be soft and absorbent, drying towels do the absorbent aspect far better. They’re usually much larger, and far thicker, meaning they can cover more surface area while also retaining more moisture. If you’re looking for drying towels after your washing stage, then visit our guide to the best car drying towels in 2024.

Best Microfiber Car Cloths In 2023

Meguiar’s Supreme Shine Microfiber Towel

RRP: £13.99 (pack of 3), buy now. $8.99 (pack of 3), buy now.

Meguiar’s Supreme Shine car microfiber cloths are another detailing favorite. First of all, they’re a seriously good size, measuring a hefty 40x60cm, so they cover large areas easily. They’re also plush, delivering swirl-free and high-gloss results. The thick, dual-sided pile allows them to absorb three times more than traditional terry cloths. This means you can wipe off more product with one cloth, allowing you to cover more panels in one go. The safety edging, meanwhile, eliminates the risk of scratching. You get three in a pack, making them good value, too. These are excellent microfiber cloths that are well worth a look.

Kirkland Ultra Plush Microfiber Car Cloths

RRP: £26.99, buy now. $19.99, buy now.

Incredible value, high quality and versatile, these microfibers are hard to beat. Kirkland’s Ultra Plush Microfiber Cloths are the go-to for most car enthusiasts, ourselves included. You can buy various quantities, but the best value pack gives you 36 cloths for under £25 if you shop around. That’s more cloths than anyone will ever need, and, at that price, you won’t care what happens to them. They’re big, at 40.6×40.6cm, and come with a fluffy side and a shorter pile side, making them perfect for a wide range of uses. For the money, these are outrageously good car microfiber cloths, and everyone should have some.

Auto Finesse Work Cloth

RRP: £6.95, buy now. $12.95, buy now.

Auto Finesse offers a selection of sexy car microfiber cloths, but the Work Cloth is its most versatile. This is one cloth that does it all and tackles any task you throw at it with ease. You can use the Work Cloth for everything from cleaning to finishing and everything in between. This short-pile towel can be used with polishes and other abrasives for cleaning and polishing different materials and areas. You can use it for buffing and removing sealants and waxes. And you can use it on paintwork, glass, engine bays and interiors. The Auto Finesse Work cloth is super-soft and features machine-stitched edging, so you can be sure it will last. And you get three cloths in a pack, so it’s good value too. An excellent all-round car microfiber cloth offering from Auto Finesse.

Autoglym Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth

RRP: £11.50. Not available in the US. Buy Autoglym Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth here!

Autoglym’s distinctive red car microfiber cloths are a welcome addition to any detailing kit. The Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth features a specially selected microfiber weave, which means it performs really well. It’s perfect for buffing off polish and wax from bodywork and delivers a dazzling shine. Use it anywhere and everywhere across your whole car. Measuring 40x40cm, it’s a good size, too. It might be a little pricey compared with some other offerings, but this is a seriously nice cloth to use. Your detailing kit deserves a Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth in there.

Dodo Juice Rag Queen

RRP: £4.00 (or £10.00 for a pack of 3). Not available in the US. Buy Dodo Juice Rag Queen here!

Inexpensive but plush and incredibly versatile, Dodo Juice’s Rag Queen is a fantastic car microfiber cloth. As its name implies, this cloth is something a bit special, and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s been designed to tackle every task you can throw at it, making it the perfect go-to cloth for everything. Made from 380gsm microfiber and measuring 40x40cm, this edgeless wonder truly does it all. With a short-pile side and a longer-pile side, it’s perfect for buffing, polishing and cleaning. Use it inside and out, on any and all surfaces, from interiors to paintwork, wheels and trim. As an all-round, do-it-all car microfiber cloth, the Rag Queen is hard to beat. Every keen detailing enthusiast should have this cloth.

How to buy the best microfiber car cloth

Believe it or not, there are a number of different areas you need to consider while buying a towel:

• How big do you need? This is tricky to answer, as needs tend to change between each user. On the whole, I like to use a few different sizes. For hard to reach areas, I tend to use a smaller cloth as it’s easier to hold. For areas like whole body panels, I’d opt for a larger cloth to ensure I can use the same cloth without needing to use a fresh one.
• Types of microfiber/thickness –  You should aim for a cloth with a GSM of anything above 350. Always do your research into the cloth to ensure it’s safe to use on glass. You’ll also notice that cloths are made with a microfiber blend. Aim for anything 70/30 and up (another popular, safe blend is 75/25, while for glass, look for 80/20 mix). The larger number refers to the microfibers.
• Towel edges – there’s some debate to be had as to whether you should be using edgeless microfiber car cloths when focusing on body panels. This is because while the cloth is made from microfiber, the edge that its sewn to often isn’t, and can damage paintwork. I’ve personally never had an issue with microfiber cloths or drying towels with edges, so I tend to just focus on the actual cloth performance.

How were the best microfiber car cloths chosen?

The above products were chosen based on my experience with a whole host of different cloth brands. I’ve been passionately detailing cars for a number of years now, and in that time I’ve sampled pretty much every product from most brands. The above car cloths are some that I’ve kept in my collection, based on their ability to softly absorb moisture without damaging glass/paintwork or leaving marks.

Microfiber car cloths FAQs

Below, we’ll answer some frequently asked questions when it comes to buying and using microfiber car cloths.

Can microfiber cloths scratch car paint?

Yes and no. Don’t be mistaken into thinking all microfiber car cloths are the same. Some are much thinner, and aren’t soft enough to use on your car. However, if you’re buying a high-quality cloth, you’ll have no issue with paintwork damage. A cloth needs to have a solid 350GSM rating or higher, with a 70/30 microfiber blend to be safe for your car.

Are microfiber cloths safe to use on glass?

Yes! But, use the same method as above when buying your cloths. To be extra safe when using cloths on glass, I would look to use a high GSM, and high microfiber blend (80/20 to be safe).

How often should I wash microfiber car cloths?

You should wash your microfiber car cloths after every use if you want to avoid paint damage. Anything you’ve wiped away from the car will sit on the towel. Therefore, the next time you use it, any dirt from the previous car detail is now being reapplied to the vehicle. Overtime, stains and the like will settle in, and it’ll be time to relegate the cloth to either wheel duties or in the bin entirely. Do not use old, dirty cloths on your car!

I dropped my microfiber cloth on the ground, can I still use it?

No! Same logic from above applies here. Dirt clings onto microfiber car cloths, and the worst offenders are the tiny stones you barely notice with your eye. But run your hand over the cloth and you’ll start to see and feel them. Those stones go straight onto your paintwork when you the cloth to buff. This is how swirl marks and small scratches appear. Chuck the cloth to one side and get yourself a fresh one. Using an extra cloth is far cheaper then fixing the paint damage. And less time consuming, too.

The post Best Microfiber Car Cloths In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Talking about air fuel ratios isn’t the sexiest subject in car tuning. But it’s one of the most important! Put simply, it can be the difference between life and death for your engine.

But there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. What’s scientifically best? Which is best for fuel economy? Is there a best air fuel ratio for power? And finally, what’s best for your engine’s lifespan? All four scenarios are very different, and require different AFRs.

To complicate things further, they vary from engine to engine. Even the type of fuel used will affect the ideal air fuel ratio. The reality is you don’t need to be an expert, that’s the job of your tuner. But understanding the basics of air fuel ratios and acting earlier when something isn’t quite right could save your engine – and your wallet from an expensive repair bill!

Poor AFRs kill parts

When parts break on your modified car, we often say they aren’t strong enough. But in reality, component parts and gaskets or seals rarely fail because they are weak. Instead, less-than-ideal AFRs are often the main culprit. Ever melted a piston? It’s not because the aluminium was too weak but because poor air fuel ratios have led to detonation and pre-ignition. Had a head gasket fail straight after tuning? It was working fine before, but again increased cylinder pressures and temperatures caused it to fail.

Don’t fall into the trap of thinking, “Oh I’ve blown a head gasket. I’ll get a stronger one to stop it from happening again.” Often, reliability issues continue because the root cause of the problem is detonation rather than weak or faulty components. Most cars can take around double the standard power on the original engine internals (some can do more like the famous 2JZ engine, and some can fail at stock power levels like the Mk3 Focus RS). But for any engine to last, the air fuel ratio must be correct. That is why ECU remapping is so crucial to get right.

Why can bad air fuel ratio kill my engine? 

One word, detonation. Detonation is where the air and fuel mixture ignites on its own – without the aid of the spark plug. This happens when lean mixtures increase combustion chamber temperatures and pressures to a level that causes the fuel to spontaneously combust.

While in mild form this is fairly harmless, the severe detonation common when tuning cars is highly destructive. Detonation causes enormous cylinder pressures, far in excess of even what the highest boost pressures could give without detonation. This, at the very least, causes your head gasket to blow, melts your pistons, and ends your engine’s life.

This catastrophic failure can happen very quickly. Which is why head gaskets are often designed to be the weakest point in an engine. It’s a lot cheaper to fix the head gasket than it is to carry out a full bottom end rebuild!

What does lean or rich mean with air fuel ratio?

When someone says that a car is running lean or rich, this relates directly to the air fuel ratio. The ideal ratio is generally around 14.7:1. That’s 14.7 parts air for every 1 part of fuel. This the amount of air required for the complete combustion of the fuel, known as the stoichiometric mixture or Lambda 1.0. Anything that has more air (or less fuel) than this is considered lean, or a Lambda of greater than 1.0. While a ratio than has less air (or more fuel) is classed as a rich AFR or Lambda of less than 1.0.

Lean AFRs

If the air-fuel ratio is too high, it means there is excess air and not enough fuel. This is known as a lean mixture. In this case, the combustion process may not consume all the oxygen present, leading to higher combustion temperatures. This can result in engine damage due to overheating, misfires, and it can lead to detonation (or knock).

Rich AFRs

Conversely, if the air-fuel ratio is too low, it means there is excess fuel and not enough air. This is known as a rich mixture. In this scenario, not all the fuel is burned during combustion, leading to a waste of fuel and lower engine efficiency. The unburned fuel can also cause bore wash and oil dilution, or damage exhaust components such as catalytic converter. It’s also the reason you’ll fail the emissions test come MoT time.

The science behind air fuel ratio 

As we’ve mentioned, the scientifically optimum mixture for normal petrol engines is 14.7:1. However, that doesn’t mean a car should run at that. For optimum fuel economy 16-17:1 is usually best – any leaner and the car will begin to misfire.

Maximum power is usually found between 12-14:1, but this may be too lean for safety on many engines. For maximum reliability at full power, air fuel ratios from 10.5-12.5:1 are considered best, depending on the engine. Richer than around 10.5:1 and you start to get noticeable black smoke from the exhaust. The car can also struggle to run properly without misfiring.

How does tuning affect AFRs?

Tuning complicates things further. Varying compression ratios, camshafts, boost pressures, and so on all affect the ideal air fuel ratio needed at any one point. This indicates the importance of having your car remapped as you add tuning components to it. To get a good overall car, you need to have a mixture of these AFRs. This should depend on how the car is being driven at any moment in time. Thankfully, that’s what modern fuel injection can supply you, provided the car has been mapped properly.

How do I tell if my air fuel ratio is safe? 

The best way of knowing your AFR is safe is to go to a trusted and reliable tuner to get your tuning work done. What is safe on one engine isn’t necessarily on another. Enlisting the help of an expert to make sure things are safe is the most important thing here. It’s worth getting things checked every six months or so to make sure everything is still how it should be.

If you’re convinced you need an AFR meter, make sure it’s a wide band setup. A narrow band only tells whether it’s at 14.7:1, leaner than it, or richer than it. Considering in performance terms that even 14.7:1 is too lean for maximum safe performance, a narrow band sensor is useless.

My air fuel ratio is fine, does that mean my engine won’t blow up? 

Truth be told, you can never be totally sure an engine won’t die. As long as your ignition timing isn’t wildly wrong and the motor is in good general health, having a safe AFR is the key to longevity.

Other issues; oil, cooling, and general strength of components can always destroy an engine. But the number one killer, especially among tuned turbo engines, is detonation due to incorrect air fuel ratios.

What will change my air fuel ratio? 

Electronics fail on cars from time to time, that’s just a fact of car ownership. However, sometimes a sensor failure can have catastrophic effects on your engine. There are various sensors that affect fueling. But, the air flow, air pressure, and temperature sensors are the most likely to drastically affect your fueling. Failing in a manner that makes the car run rich means you should notice but no damage will be done. Failing and making the car run lean can end in disaster.

There is little you can do to stop this happening aside from sorting out any running issues the minute you notice them. However, getting your AFR checked every six months could indicate early signs of a problem. Changing sensors for upgraded versions, especially things like airflow and pressure sensors, will also cause lean running problems if the car hasn’t been remapped to suit.

Camshaft changes

Changing to higher lift and longer duration cams lets your engine breathe more easily. This often means big fueling changes are needed not only to keep the engine safe, but to extract maximum performance from the cam. At high rpm, where the improved breathing gives noticeable power improvements, extra fuel is usually needed to prevent the car from running lean. But at low rpm, especially around idle, a richer mixture is often needed to keep drivability. Longer duration cams mean more fuel is wasted out of the exhaust at low rpm.

Fuel system problems

All components have their limits of capability, and when tuning engines you often hit the limit of what your fuel injectors, fuel pump, and even fuel lines and filter can cope with. Beyond their maximum flow rates, your engine will run lean and eventually fail. Age is another big factor with fuel systems, as they gradually get clogged up with dirt. Fuel pump wiring can also deteriorate, all of which will reduce flow. The final point worth mentioning is the vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator, especially on turbo and supercharged engines. If this pipe splits or is removed, the engine will run incredibly lean on boost, and sometimes won’t survive a single full throttle run.

Fuel system changes

Fitting improved fuel system parts is vital on most cars tuned beyond the basic Stage 1 parts, but fitting them without the car being set up to suit can cause big problems. Installing bigger injectors without a suitable remap can cause the engine to massively over-fuel, which, while not causing instant death, isn’t good for economy or performance. The most potentially dangerous upgrade is the fuel pressure regulator, as you can be almost assured an upgraded replacement won’t be set for your correct pressure. While too much pressure is not a killer, too little equals lean running and a dead engine. Because of this, a fuel pressure gauge is a vital tool when replacing the regulator.

Exhaust changes

You may consider an exhaust to be a minor upgrade, but if it gives significantly more flow and performance, the car will need more fuel to stop the engine running dangerously lean. Some engines automatically compensate to some extent when making changes like this. But many cars, especially turbocharged ones, can run dangerously lean from a simple full exhaust system swap. This therefore would need a matching ECU remap to suit.

Improved intercooler

Cooler air may decrease the chances of detonation, but it’s also much denser and therefore feeds the engine with more oxygen. As a result, the engine would require more fuel not to run lean. Just like the exhaust, some cars will compensate for this and cause no problems, but some cars need a remap to compensate for the intercooler.

Bigger turbo

Even if your boost pressure is exactly the same, if you fit a larger turbo, you will be feeding your engine with a lot more air. Therefore, it can just as easily run lean and die as it would with a boost increase. The reason for this is a larger turbo not only gives cooler, denser air, but also lets a lot more air out the exhaust, which in turn lets more air in the cylinders. Without the extra fuel to compensate, yes, you guessed it, it will run lean, detonate, and the engine will fail.

Boost pressure increase

This is the biggest cause of lean air/fuel ratios, and why many turbo cars have undeserved reputations for blowing head gaskets and melting pistons. Boost increases improve power and torque due to the subsequent large airflow increases, but without the corresponding increase in fuel the car will run dangerously lean and detonate. It’s not just the increased airflow that causes problems either, more boost pressure means higher air temperatures. With higher temps come an increase in the chances of detonation, making it a double edged sword.

Alternative fuels and air fuel ratio

Detonation is the main reason to worry about your air fuel ratio, but that is because normal pump fuels aren’t very resistant to it. While super unleaded is widely available at most pumps, its octane rating of 97-99 RON is fairly low, and a big part of the reason we have to run so rich, especially on turbo cars, to keep things safe.

Race fuel

Expensive and not available in your local petrol station, race fuel is generally reserved for track-only cars. It would need a remap to get the most out of it if you put it in your vehicle. It can be incredibly high octane (120+ RON quite often) and therefore very detonation resistant even with leaner mixtures, but you’d have to be rich to run your road car on it!

Methanol fuel 

Only really viable for full race cars due to it’s highly toxic, corrosive and flammable nature. You will also need about four times the amount of fuel than you need running normal petrol. It’s popular for full drag cars as it’s incredibly detonation resistant, very cold, often negating the need for an intercooler, and contains a lot of oxygen itself, further increasing power.

E85 fuel

While mostly advertised as a cheap and environmentally friendly fuel, the main attraction of it to performance tuning fans is it’s around 106 RON, and therefore very detonation resistant. Similar to methanol, it needs extra fuel to run at peak performance, but at much more road-friendly levels, and is the performance fuel of choice.

LPG fuel

At about half the price of normal fuel, it’s mostly used to save money, but it has performance potential too. LPG is incredibly resistant to detonation, so with a system optimized for power, LPG has the potential to be used as a great fuel on big power turbo/supercharged engines.

Air fuel ratio in diesel engines

Diesel air fuel ratio issues are almost backwards to petrol, and it’s actually overly rich mixtures that cause problems. Lean is good for the health of a diesel engine, if not for the amount of power it produces. A diesel engine runs incredibly lean compared to a petrol engine regardless, and richer mixtures are actually the things that increase heat in the engine and lead to components failing.

Detonation is much less of an issue with diesels. In fact, the clattery noise in diesels is closely related to this. But, it isn’t damaging, apart from in certain situations where it’s incredibly severe, and unfortunately this is usually related, just like on petrol engines, to major tuning errors!

The post Air Fuel Ratio Guide: What are AFRs? appeared first on Fast Car.

The motoring world as we know it is changing. Turbos and mild hybrid systems are now the norm, manufacturers are downsizing engines and switching to electric, and governments collectively around the world are introducing polices to end the sale of new internal combustion-engined cars in the near future. Now seems a good a time as any to celebrate the almighty V8, because this is an engine that is quickly being killed off. Thankfully, BMW has provided so many V8s over the years that some of them make the best used cars to buy today.

The V8 is something truly special and while it’s not always the most powerful engine option and certainly not the most economical, it always sounds amazing and delivers an old-school muscle car feel that no other engine can match.

If you’ve ever been tempted by something with a great V8 under the bonnet, this is your lucky day. We’ve picked our top 5 BMW V8 cars to suit (just about) every budget, and they’re all guaranteed to put a huge smile on your face. Also note that used car prices are ever-changing, so always do your research before buying.

BMW E9x M3

Engine: 4.0-liter S65B40
Max power: 420hp
Max torque: 295lb ft

Why would you want one?

The first – and only – road-going V8-powered M3 (aside from the E46 M3 GTR, but good luck buying one of those…), the E9x remains every bit as awesome today as it was when it was first launched back in 2007. It combines aggressive, muscular styling with a razor-sharp chassis and that magnificent S65 that revs like nothing else, making this an intoxicating performance machine.

Our pick

Our personal preference would be the coupé as you get that carbon roof, we’d pick DCT over the manual gearbox as it really suits the S65 so well, while EDC is nice to have but not essential, especially if you’re looking to upgrade the suspension anyway. The Comp pack, with its M359 19s, lower suspension and tweaked EDC is tempting but, again, only if you’re not looking to mod the car much in these areas.

The special editions, meanwhile, can be appealing if you like a certain color or the trim, or just fancy something a little more individual, but they are a chunk more expensive than the regular models.

Pros

The E9x M3 is an absolutely awesome machine to drive and it’s a car that’s guaranteed to put a smile on your face. The S65 is simply sensational and the way it revs all the way to 8300rpm, feeling the way the power just keeps on building, all overlaid by that howling V8 symphony is something truly special and this car is an event.

It’s not too big, meaning it fits comfortably on B roads, but still has loads of space inside and is a genuinely usable everyday proposition. The chassis is sharp and the handling is exceptional, and this is a machine that can really deliver next-level driving thrills.

Cons

There’s really not too much to worry about on the E9x M3 in general, more ammunition for justifying it’s position on this top 5 BMW V8 cars to buy list. The main issues to be aware of are both engine-related; the first is rod bearing wear, similar to that on the S62 in the E39 M5. The cause is the same, owners thrashing the engine from cold before the oil is hot enough, and excessive wear will eventually lead you to spin a bearing which is obviously very bad news.

As before, keep the revs low (2-3k rpm) and throttle inputs gentle before the oil gauge reaches around 100°C and if the bearings haven’t been changed budget to get them done ($/£1500) as a precautionary measure. There’s no set mileage at which they fail and the oil analysis tests you can do aren’t foolproof. The other issue is electronic throttle actuator failure, but they can be rebuilt for around $/£500 for the pair, which really isn’t bad at all.

Other negatives are the small fuel tank which, combined with the thirsty S65, means a small range, and the engine does really need to be revved to get the most from it and can feel a little flat before it really gets going.

Modding potential

With a car as popular as the M3, it’s no surprise that the aftermarket is absolutely brimming with mods and there’s so much you can do. For styling, you can have anything and everything in carbon, from the smallest vents to a whole vented bonnet, there are splitters, side skirt extensions, diffusers, CSL boot lids, the works. There are loads of lowering springs to choose from as well as a lot of excellent coilover kits available for the car, some with electronic damping, and there are numerous big brake kits to choose from, meaning you’re fully sorted on the chassis front.

As for power, NA tuning is a little limited, but a primary de-cat and remap to go with it can net you an additional 20-30hp, and PSDesigns’ awesome velocity stack kit not only looks and sounds incredible but will also get you around 475hp.

If you want more then supercharging is the best option, with centrifugal kits available from infinitas, ESS and VF Engineering, and each company has something to suit most budgets, and around $6500/£6000 will get you near to 600hp.

There’s also the positive displacement supercharger kit available from Harrop; it’s a lot more expensive, costing between $/£10,000-15,000 depending on retailer, but adds huge low-end torque along with impressive power gains. Check out this bagged E92 M3 for some modding inspiration. Feeling wild? How about you create your own E9x M3 Touring like Paul has done?

Verdict

The S65 is a sensational engine and the E9x M3 is an absolutely spectacular all-round package. Problems are few so it won’t be too expensive to look after, there’s a near-limitless selection of mods to choose from and huge horsepower is easily attainable, and while the S65 does make you work for the power, that just makes it all the more satisfying when you really open it up. For the money, the E9x M3 is an absolute steal, which is why it features on list of the best BMW V8 cars you can buy.

BMW E31 840Ci

Engine: 4.0-liter M60B40/4.4-liter M62B44
Max power: 286hp
Max torque: 295/310lb ft

Why do you want one?

Up until the last few years, there was only one 8 Series and the original is still a unique and special machine. It looks quite unlike anything else BMW has ever produced and still turns heads today, and will get you attention wherever you go. If you’re looking for a unique V8 experience, this is it.

Our pick

If we can stretch to it we’d go for an 840Ci Sport – the 4.4-liter M62 is the better and more reliable engine and the Sport looks that much sexier. There are a handful of manual cars out there but we wouldn’t bother holding out for one, the auto suits the character of the car just fine.

Pros

It’s got pop-up headlights, which are an instant win, and it’s also a pillarless design, which just ramps up the cool factor. It looks stunning and it’s an absolutely superb GT, comfy, wafty, able to effortlessly eat up miles and look cool while doing it. Also, you probably won’t see another one so the exclusivity is a big part of the appeal.

Cons

It’s heavy, it’s slow and it’s not entertaining to drive. If you’re looking for something fun, this isn’t it. The M60 suffers from the Nikasil bore-wear issue, while the M62 is sturdy but check for leaking rocker cover gasket and failing timing chain tensioners which can lead to the plastic timing chain guides breaking, which will leave you with a large bill.

Expect a lot of electrical niggles at this age. It has a complicated suspension setup with a lot of components and the weight really takes its toll on all those arms and bushes. If you get one with EDC it’s going to break and will be expensive to repair. Age and mileage are this car’s greatest enemy and can land you with some serious bills.

Modding potential

Wheels and suspension options are decent, styling less so with the Sport pretty much the best-looking setup for this car, and you can supercharge the M62, while the M60 perks up with an eBay chip (old-school tuning). Don’t forget an exhaust as it’s easy to get it sounding glorious. Beyond that, there’s not really much on offer, but lowered on the right wheels an 8 Series will look a million dollars. Check out this bagged BMW E31 8 Series for some inspiration.

Verdict

Far from the last word in driving dynamics and capable of crippling your wallet and your bank account in one fell swoop, the 8 Series is, nevertheless, hugely charming and still a sexy-looking beast. If you want to stand out from the crowd in something a bit special and can stomach some potentially costly repairs, it’s definitely worth a look.

Supercharged BMW E38 740i.

BMW E38 740i

Engine: 4.0-litre M60B40/4.4-litre M62B44
Max power: 286hp
Max torque: 295/310/325lb ft

Why would you want one?

If you want to be a baller on a budget the E38 7 Series is where it’s at. It still looks money and is arguably a far more classy prospect than the E65 Seven that followed it. It’s one of those cars that needs almost nothing to look good and it’s great value for money when you’re hunting for a V8.

Our pick

We’d love a Sport for the M paras and the slightly meatier styling as well as the improved seats, but we wouldn’t pay over the odds for one as the basic car captures the essence of the 7 Series experience perfectly, and with some mods you’ll be able to spice it up anyway.

Pros

Every time you drive your 7 Series you will feel like you’ve made it. It’s comfy, sumptuous, built like a bank vault and so incredibly cosseting. This is the sort of classic luxury, refinement and ride quality that is timeless. Pull up somewhere in your Seven and you will always feel like a big deal.

Cons

The M60 suffers from the Nikasil bore-wear issue, while on the M62 you need to be aware of the chain tensioners and plastic guides, and also the cooling circuit on both, including the water pump. Fuel tanks rust and leak and a clogged charcoal canister/vent will lead to the fuel tank imploding.

Rust isn’t too big of an issue, but check the bottoms of the doors and the metal sunroof panel. The suspension and bushes also take some punishment due to the car’s weight so expect to have to spend some money there. Inside expect some electrical issues like the pixels disappearing on the OBC display.

Modding potential

Not huge, but you don’t need a lot to make an E38 stand out. Drop it on air, add some deep-dish splits and you’re basically there; you can get the Alpina-look front spoiler that does a good job of enhancing the front end, you might want to add the facelift rear lights, and, naturally, we’d add an exhaust to enjoy that BMW V8 but, otherwise, the best builds keep it simple and let the car’s natural class shine through. Check out this supercharged E38 740i for some inspiration.

Verdict

For the money, the E38 7 Series is an exceptional buy and one of the cheapest ways into BMW V8 ownership. The third-gen Seven has aged incredibly well and still looks smart and sharp, delivers exceptional levels of comfort and refinement, and just a few mods will make it look absolutely awesome. Balling on a budget has never been easier.

625whp Supercharged E39 M5 Touring.

BMW E39 M5

Engine: 4.9-liter S62B50
Max power: 400hp
Max torque: 369lb ft

Why would you want one?

You can’t possibly have a top 5 BMW V8 cars list without including the OG V8 M machine, the E39 M5. A legend in its own lifetime, the E39 M5 remains an incredible car to this day and delivers the perfect blend of everyday comfort with monster performance and sublime handling.

Our pick

We’d forego fancy options and concentrate on getting the best car we can – BMW was pretty stingy with standard spec so you could really go nuts with the options when the M5 was new. But, to be honest, the sat nav is going to feel very old by now, and while things like Heritage leather and Extended leather are nice it’s not as if the M5 feels cheap and low-rent on the inside anyway, and besides, it’s really all about the driving experience.

Pros

The S62 is a monster engine that delivers huge mid-range torque but also loves to rev, which is exactly why it’s on our list of the top 5 BMW V8 cars to buy. It makes the M5 an awesome machine, and it’s still seriously fast even by today’s standards. Then you have that chassis, which manages to deliver the perfect blend of ride comfort and absolutely superb handling, and it makes the M5 feel superb on just about any road. The steering is faster than that of a standard E39 and offers more feel and the whole package is just absolutely sublime. The E39 M5 won every group test it was in back in the day – with good reason – and it has lost none of its sparkle today.

Cons

General stuff will be age- and mileage-related so expect failing pixels on the OBC display, the heater resistor playing up, and look out for rust, especially on the sills around the jacking points, around the fuel filler cap and along the boot lid edge. The various suspension components will also have taken a beating over the years so budget to have to replace arms and bushes. The S62 does suffer from several problems that you need to be aware of, the major one being rod bearings.

These wear prematurely when owners don’t allow the engine oil to fully warm up before driving the car hard, and if they fail then you’re looking at a hefty bill for some substantial engine repairs, if not a new engine. The best thing to do is to drive the car slowly and gently, keeping the revs low until the oil temperature gets close to 100°C, but with no idea of how the car’s been driven it’s definitely worth getting the bearings changed as a precautionary measure, especially at high miles. The timing chain tensioners can fail, which in turn will damage the chain guides, and the VANOS can also be problematic but it can be rebuilt and isn’t too expensive to fix these days.

Modding potential

The modding potential is huge and there’s an awful lot you can do to an M5, but styling isn’t one of them. Splitters and diffusers you can add, and if you have a pre-facelift car it’s easy enough to fit the facelift front and rear lights. Mechanically, however, you can go wild. You have loads of suspension options with some excellent coilovers to suit all budgets, plenty of wheel options and big brake upgrades as well.

In terms of performance, there are a few NA mods you can do, like fitting a set of free-flowing tubular exhaust manifolds, and the obligatory exhaust is, of course, a must, but if you want some real power then it’s all about supercharging. There are a few kits available, with the most affordable of these being the ESS VT1-560 kit at around $/£5000, with other options available from Evolve and RMS. Check out this supercharged E39 M5 Touring for some tuning inspiration.

Verdict

Prices may have been rising but the E39 M5 remains an affordable proposition, especially for such an iconic machine. Delivering the perfect blend of handling and performance with those timeless good looks, it’s an awesome package and a real driver’s car that shouldn’t be too ruinous to run and offers plenty of modding options. A true M icon that remains every bit as desirable today as it was back in the day.

800whp F10 M5.

BMW F10 M5

Engine: 4.4-liter twin-turbo S63B44
Max power: 560hp
Max torque: 502lb ft

Why would you want one?

After the V10-powered E60 M5 we all wondered where BMW could take the M5 next and the answer to that question was back to a V8, but with a pair of turbos strapped to it, and the result was explosive. The S63 made an eye-watering 560hp with a monster 502lb ft of torque and fed all that through an M DCT seven-speed ‘box; this was the quickest M5 we’d ever seen at the time and, in terms of performance and tuning potential, this V8 monster can’t be beaten, which is why it’s here on our list of the top 5 BMW V8 cars to buy.

Our pick

There’s no such thing as a bad F10 M5 and we’d be happy with whatever we bought, which is why it’s here in our shortlist of top 5 BMW V8 cars. The LCI changes were minor and you can retrofit the later, smaller steering wheel so that’s no big deal. At $30k / £20k for an M5 you really can’t go wrong and while the Competition pack is tempting, if you’re planning on modding then the additions it brings won’t be worth the extra $/£5000 or so to you.

While the options list was extensive, there are only a few things we’d have on our wish list: extended leather is nice and makes the interior feel that bit more special, the 20s are definitely a must-have as the 19s look way too small, and we’d also try to find a car with the M Sport multi-function seats as they look and feel even better than the standard seats and offer more support and adjustment.

Pros

The most impressive part of the F10 M5 package is without a doubt the performance because it is truly otherworldly. 560hp is a lot, and a 0-62 time of 4.3 seconds is not but on-paper figures really can’t convey how insanely fast this car is in the real world. Seriously, we can’t tell you how quick this car really is. Beyond the performance, you’ve got the extremely impressive handling, and you won’t believe how light on its feet the M5 feels. It’s a truly exceptional package on every level.

Cons

There’s actually very little to worry about on the F10 M5 and, apart from oil pump failures on early cars and a small number of owners experience engine problems, it’s been holding up extremely well so far, with owners proclaiming it the most reliable M5 yet. Some cars suffer from high oil consumption and there are occasional problems with injectors and airflow meters, but that’s about it, really.

There were some air-con failure-based recalls for the F10 platform and some cars suffer from rattles around the B-pillars and door trims, but if that’s all you have to worry about we’d say you’ve ended up with a really good car.

The only other downside is the F10 M5’s sheer size – yes, it handles exceptionally well and feels light on its feet, but it never feels small and never shrinks around you and this is a car that is definitely best suited to fast, open roads rather than twisting B roads.

Modding potential

Really huge and the F10 M5 might be the best-supported M5 yet when it comes to mods. Browse any BM tuning site and you will see countless options when it comes to splitters, skirt extensions and diffusers, so you’re covered there. You’re spoilt for choice as far as wheels are concerned and there’s a decent selection of suspension upgrades available too.

Of course, it’s really all about performance with the F10 M5 and huge horsepower gains are so easy to get – just a tuning box or a map will get you an increase of around 100hp and if you pair that with a set of catless downpipes you’ll have around 700hp to enjoy. Beyond that you’ll need some uprated turbos – plus the supporting mods to go with them – at which point you’ll be hitting 800hp+ without your S63 even breaking a sweat. Check out this 800whp F10 M5 for some inspiration.

Verdict

The most powerful car on our top 5 BMW V8 cars to buy list, the F10 is a monumental machine and the fact that you can buy a healthy one for just $30,000 / £20,000 is incredible. Modding potential is vast, huge horsepower gains are incredibly easy to achieve, it’s proving reliable and it’s an astonishingly accomplished car all-round. If you want to go fast, this is the V8 to throw your money at and you will not be disappointed with an F10 M5 in your life.

Photos: Marcus Lundell, BMW, Rich Pearce, Patrik Karlsson, Matt Richardson, Matt Woods.

If you’ve landed on this page then the chances are that you love German cars. The good news for you is that we’re hosting the German Car Festival this October 5th at Goodwood Motor Circuit. Head over to the German Car Festival event website for more info on the event and to secure your ticket today. 

The post Best BMW V8 Cars To Buy In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Cars are complicated. For the past three decades or so, cars have been controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU for short). This ECU controls virtually everything on your car that allows it to produce power. From controlling fuel levels and ignition timing, to turbo boost control, cam timing, throttle control and more. We’ve got a handy guide as to what is an ECU right here that will help you understand what one is before you learn about the benefits of remapping one.

In short, if you like to modify cars, then without fettling with the electronics controlling all the systems, you won’t be making the most out of any of the modifications you’ve made. Now, we’re the first to understand that it’s hard to justify shelling out for something you can’t actually see, but trust us, ECU remapping is worth it. And that includes if you haven’t made any hardware changes, too.

Getting a remap is nothing like spending a few quid on a swanky new exhaust that you can annoy the neighbors with. The point is though, getting all those electronically controlled settings spot on is essential. Not just for wringing out more power, but for the general wellbeing of your engine. It all becomes obvious when you get in and drive.

What Is An ECU?

All electronic ignition cars (that’s all ones that don’t have an old-school carburetor) use an ECU or Engine Control Unit. This is a computer that constantly reads and evaluates information fed to it by various sensors located around the car. It analyses factors such as engine load, throttle angle, air density, exhaust gases, air, fuel and coolant temperatures, then compares it to a factory preset map. The ECU can then effectively control engine operation and efficiency by adjusting timing, air/fuel mixture, injectors and, on turbo cars, the all-important boost pressure.

For a more in-depth look at what an ECU is, and how they work, read this other handy guide.

Why Would You Remap An ECU?

Manufacturers have to make big compromises when programming their ECUs. Think about it – they don’t know you’re a proper car enthusiast do they. They don’t know you only use the very finest fuel, follow the correct cold start/cool down procedure and service your car regularly. Many ordinary motorists don’t, so manufacturers engineer their standard lumps to endure a bit of mistreatment. In fact, most are put together to perform at way below their potential. They’re basically detuned to increase reliability when neglected and increase fuel economy. Some will also heavily detune their engines to create lower-spec models and meet insurance or economy regulations.

Luckily, the ECU controls pretty much all of this stuff and, if you stick in a new set of parameters changing the preset map, you can iron out these compromises.

Potential downsides to remapping an ecu

Now if you think about the map as a balanced three-way scale between performance, economy/emissions and reliability, if you put some more power in, you then effect the economy/emissions and the reliability. By how much is merely down to how aggressive you’re being when chasing power. All of the parts in your engine and transmission have different stress points, so it’s always advised to work with your tuner to ensure you’re staying within a sensible reliability window. For the most part though, particularly with turbocharged engines, you’re upping the boost pressure, which in turn means more fuel to compensate for the increase in cold air. Thus you’re going to be using more fuel, bottom line. If someone tells you you’ll get more economy from a performance remap, they’re lying.

That being said, remaps aren’t always about opting for more performance. Perhaps you’ve bought a modified car that has been mapped poorly and you want a standard baseline map. Or, you’re a business looking to exploit more efficient economy, thus spending less on fuel in the long run. As a result, there are a multitude of different scenarios when it comes to remapping an ECU. For the most part though, and especially if you’re reading this, you’re looking for more power. So how does that more power come about?

Where Does The New Map Come From?

It takes years of research and development to tune any car to its full potential. Creating an engine map is a technical business because they have to be bespoke for every make, model engine size and configuration.

Then there are the aftermarket stages: a stage one map is often designed to complement, say, a panel filter and exhaust. Stage two could be for further bolt-on mods such as a front mount intercooler and tubular manifold. And stage three for a bigger turbo, injectors and fuel pump. In other words, they’re designed to make the most of all those other mods too. The more hardware changes the further refinement is needed.

The software is a complicated mash of fueling, ignition timing, boost and loads of other figures. But it’s tweaked and developed to increase power and drivability (and sometimes economy) without pushing the engine’s safety parameters too far. This is where your money goes!

Most important though is making sure you use the best possible, tried and tested technology. Always do your research, aim for the highest quality brand and, even more importantly, an installer with experience. You wouldn’t let Average Joe install your boiler to save a few quid, would you? It’s the same thing here.

How Is The Remap Uploaded?

So that’s the map. But how does an installer get it into your car? Well, they can achieve this in one of two ways.

Nowadays OBDII Port mapping is by far the most common way and simply involves uploading the new software through the car’s OBDII port. This is a direct connection to the ECU normally used for diagnostics, and as a result, changing the map becomes a simple plug and play job, achievable in a matter of minutes. It replaces the old map’s settings with the new map and thus controlling your engine just like the stock map does, only this time with a little more power.

What Is Chip Tuning a car?

For cars that aren’t OBDII compliant, tuners have to physically remove the ECU, open it up and solder a new microchip onto the motherboard, a bit like upgrading an early 1990s PC. We normally associate chipping with really old cars but it’s worth remembering it could be any car manufactured before 2001. If a 2000-model Golf 1.8T has a diagnostic port it doesn’t necessarily mean it will be programmable through it.

Can You Remap A Diesel Car?

Well, no need for a sad face, because oil burners love being remapped the most. In many ways, diesels respond to ECU remapping better than petrol motors and, with the right stage pack, you can up the power by up to 40 percent. Bonkers!

What Is Live Mapping a car?

If you want the very best results for your car when remapping the ECU, then that’ll be a live map. This is the most accurate method to re-work those engine parameters. This involves hooking up a laptop to the ECU and going for a drive or hitting the rolling road. This way a tuner can maximise performance far more effectively for any individual car, no matter what the spec. By being able to adjust the parameters from actual data, rather than something more generic (remember every car is different) maximises the safety of remapping the ECU. It allows the tuner to spot any errors, flat-spots, and everything in between.

Why Use A Rolling Road When Remapping?

Of course, the advantage of using a specialist with a dyno is you can actually see what difference your new map is making with each power run. You can also get an indication of any power problems across the rev range and address them accordingly. For optimum tuning, not to mention proving the figures to your grandad, it’s essential!

It also gives you the opportunity to run the car at full throttle without the risk of breaking the speed limit and being pulled by the police. So it offers a level of safety, too. If you aren’t too bothered about the Fuzz, or happen to live near the Autobahn, then connecting a laptop and going for a drive out on the road is going to be the most accurate way of tuning. This is because the data you’re getting are from actual road driving, meaning they’re 100% accurate of the scenario you’ll be in day-to-day, driving the car. On a dyno, you’re replicating the scenario, and therefore air temperature, wind, road surface friction and all of those other anomalies are less accurate.

What Is The Future Of ECU Remapping?

Of course, it’s all very well if you can get your car to a workshop for an expert remap, but what if that’s not possible? Fear not, the solution is simple – nowadays you can buy an OBDII cable and do the job yourself. Some tuners have in-house developed stage one, two and three maps available for most cars, which they can send you via the internet.

All you need to do is plug it in, upload and away you go. You can also log engine data on the road or local dyno and send it over for them to diagnose and tweak. You can remap your car to suit every time you make upgrades.

More recently, Bluetooth technology has allowed for the control of maps via smartphone and an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter plug. Clever stuff indeed!

EV Tuning

Electric cars are increasingly commonplace. As you might imagine, almost all are entirely governed by their ECUs. So, theoretically, the potential for performance gains from remapping EVs is even greater than with ICE cars! At the moment, it’s still early days for this new industry. That being said, we’ve already heard of Tesla tuners being able to use plug and play methods to unlock an extra 150hp! Check out our EV tuning guide for more.

Now you know all about car remapping, how about you get yourself to one of our performance events this year? At almost all of our shows you’ll have the opporunitiy to go out on track and test the increased performance of your motor after remapping it. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment events here.

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If you’re a car enthusiast, you’ve got to own a RWD car at least once in your life. The feeling of having the front wheels free to do nothing but steer, giving you pure feedback through the wheel, and having power heading to the rear delivers an incredible sense of balance and enjoyment. Then, of course, there’s the appeal of being able to get the back out, honing your driving skills and learning all about car control. And of course putting on a show at the same time.

The best thing is that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get yourself behind the wheel of something rear-wheel drive, and more importantly, fun. We’ve chosen some of the best rear-wheel drive cars you can buy that will guarantee fun and give you the perfect taste of rear-wheel-drive motoring.

Best Rear-Wheel Drive Cars on a Budget

BMW E92 335i

The E9x 335i must surely be one of the greatest modern performance bargains you can get your hands on, delivering 306hp and 295lb ft of torque. With no fewer than four body styles and three gearboxes to choose from across the car’s production run, there’s a turbocharged 3 Series out there for everyone. Our pick would have to be a manual E92 (that’s the coupé) – the slick six-speed ‘box is the perfect partner for the engine, be that the cheaper twin-turbo N54 or the later single-turbo N55, while the two-door body is long, low and sexy.

In terms of mods, you’re spoilt for choice. As we’re on a budget, we’d be looking at an N54-powered car, and once we’d sorted the less reliable aspects of the engine (coil packs, HPFP, rod bearings), you’re free to go wild with the mods. We’d be looking at a pair of high-flow downpipes, an uprated charge pipe as the stock plastic one can crack, a larger intercooler for better cooling, a pair of intakes for improved flow and awesome sucking noises, a sports exhaust (no power gains here, but it will sound awesome), and we’d top that all off with a map. That will get you over 400hp, which is going to be plenty to be getting on with.

If you want more than that, you’ll be looking at hybrid turbos or a big single and some meth injection as well. Naturally, we’d be looking at a good set of coilovers to sort the handling as the standard car is far too soft. We’d also look at an LSD to help put the power down and control slides, and a Big Brake Kit for stopping power that matches your horsepower!

Need help tuning it? Take a look at our 335i tuning guide.

Mazda MX-5 / Miata 

Of course, there had to be an MX-5 on our list, it is the go-to bargain RWD car of choice, and there are plenty of reasons why they are so popular. First of all, they are very cheap and so popular that the market is positively overflowing with second-hand examples, which means that finding one to suit your budget is an easy task. Secondly, the MX-5 is one of the best-handling RWD cars out there, especially for the money, and, thirdly, it’s pretty much the perfect beginner’s introduction to rear-wheel drive. The main reason is down to the fact that it’s a small, light car with low power, so you can really throw it around and get a feel for rear-wheel drive without worrying that the rear will step out on you every time you so much as touch the throttle.

MX-5s are very capable and huge fun to drive on track, even in stock form. With some poly bushes on board, a set of coilovers and an LSD (some models got one as standard), plus some minor brake upgrades like rotors, pads and fluid, you’ll have a car that’s track day ready and will be huge fun to drive, more than capable of holding its own against far more powerful cars on circuit. For the money, the MX-5 really can’t be beaten, which is why it sits on our list of the best rear-wheel drive cars on a budget.

Looking to buy one? Check out our Mazda MX-5 buying guide. 

Mazda RX-8

Our second Mazda entry on the list of the best rear-wheel-drive cars to buy on a budget is the RX-8. Not only do these start cheap, but around £2k will get you a tidy-looking example, and you’ll struggle to spend more than £8k on one, so there’s a huge amount of choice and something to suit every budget. The RX-8 had a bit of a tough job on its hands, having to follow the universally loved Mazda RX-7, and its more sensible four-door body and NA engine made it a very different prospect. High oil and fuel consumption put a lot of people off, and the rotary engine suffers from a few issues that also scare people away, but if you do your research and go in prepared, there’s no reason you won’t have a great time with an RX-8, and they have a very dedicated fan base.

The one to have is the 231hp six-speed model, and while it’s not going to set your world on fire in terms of performance, the tiny, lightweight rotary engine is something you’ve got to experience. It loves to rev and is insanely smooth and makes the RX-8 very different to drive compared to anything with a regular engine. With some chassis upgrades, they make fine fast-road and track cars, and there are plenty of performance mods out there, including turbo kits.

BMW E87 130i

Naturally, you would expect to find at least one BM on this list of the 7 best rear-wheel drive cars on a budget (we’ve squeezed in two), thanks to the fact that the vast majority of cars that the Bavarian manufacturer has produced have been RWD. While there’s a wealth of awesome M cars out there to salivate over we’re keeping things a little more grounded, and we’re jumping in with the E87 130i. While BMW’s first true attempt at a hatchback (we’re going to swerve the E36 and E46 Compact models) may have been a little visually challenging, in M Sport form it gained some welcome styling enhancements. The range-topping 130i added the lightweight 3.0-litre straight-six N52 engine up front making a healthy 265hp and driving the rear wheels via either a six-speed manual or auto gearbox (skip the latter and stick with the manual).

Out of the box, it’s an impressive performer with a decent turn of speed and an eager chassis, but a few choice upgrades will make a world of difference. The M Sport suspension is very bouncy and makes the car a handful on bumpy roads, so a decent set of coilovers will sort the handling and the ride height in one go. 265hp is also more than enough to overwhelm the rear tyres, and there’s no limited-slip differential on board, so get a Quaife installed, and you’ll really be able to enjoy the power in all conditions. Beyond that, we’d be looking at a BBK, like the M Performance offering for the front axle, plus a sports exhaust, and that will give you a seriously sorted RWD hot hatch that will be a blast to drive.

If you want to buy a good one, check out our BMW 130i buyer’s guide.

Honda S2000

There’s a lot to love about the Honda S2000. From the aggressive, long-nosed roadster styling to the soaring VTEC motor that loves to rev, mated to a snappy six-speed manual gearbox, and with a, um, ‘lively’ chassis, it’s a car that doesn’t shy away from delivering big driving thrills. You tend not to see that many about these days (we can’t recall the last time we saw one out on the road), but they have plenty of devoted fans, and owners often hang onto them for years and pile on the miles, which is definitely an encouraging sign. That screaming VTEC under the long bonnet is a big part of what makes the S2000 so appealing, and while it’s a little short on torque like any NA VTEC is, the engine’s eagerness to run up to its 9k rpm redline at any given opportunity makes up for that.

Early cars are notorious for being snappy, with the rear end letting go with little provocation. This is down to a combination of stiff suspension, a standard-fit LSD and lack of traction control (it wasn’t even an option until 2006), and Honda softened the chassis off a touch for the 2004 facelift. Needless to say, it’s the suspension you want to be sorting first, be that with lowering springs or coilovers plus anti-roll bars, and, beyond that, we’d be looking at an intake and exhaust combo to enhance the soundtrack, while an off-the-shelf supercharger kit will give you a healthy power increase.

Prices for S2000s are on the rise, so now’s the time to get hold of one!

If you’re looking to get hold of one yourself, check out our S2000 buyer’s guide.

Nissan 370Z

Nissan’s V6 bruiser has been a huge hit ever since it first appeared in 350Z form, but we’re pushing the boat out and going for the revised 370Z for the final entry on our list of the seven best rear-wheel-drive cars to buy on a budget. It’s a big, two-seat coupé with a big, 3.7-litre V6 under the bonnet making 328hp and 268lb ft of torque, sending power to the rear wheels via either a six-speed manual gearbox or seven-speed auto. It’s lighter and stiffer than its predecessor, and while it’s not exactly a nimble sports car, it is an excellent all-rounder that can cruise on a long journey and entertain on a B road. And besides, that V6 serves up loads of torque and an impressive turn of speed when you need it.

In terms of modding, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to styling, wheel options, suspension and brakes, meaning you can really go all-out and really turn your 370Z into something special. Naturally, we’d kick things off with an intake and exhaust to really be able to enjoy that V6 soundtrack at its best, and then we’d throw on a set of coilovers to sort the handling. If you want some serious power, you can pick up a supercharger kit for around £7k, or go wild with a twin-turbo kit for £10,000 which will turn your 370Z into an absolute beast.

Porsche 986 Boxster S

Don’t think you can buy a Porsche on a budget? Well, think again! Porsche’s first-gen 986 Boxster is now a conspicuous bargain, and you can park a piece of Stuttgart performance metal on your driveway for just £5000. We’re swerving the lesser models and diving in with the S, powered by a 3.2-litre flat-six making 250hp in earlier models and 258 from 2003.

The S came with a six-speed manual (stay away from the lacklustre Tiptronic), red calipers with vented cross-drilled discs, stiffer anti-roll bars and springs, leather seats, white gauges and climate control, plus of course, that more powerful flat-six tucked behind the seats. We’re not going to tell you that a £5k Porsche is ever going to be a cheap car to own and run. There are some potentially expensive issues (cracked bore liners, Variocam guide rails, IMS bearing failure and RMS failure, plus roof issues), so do your research and don’t just jump on the first car you see.

The 986 is superb to drive, even in stock form, which is not surprising as Porsche knows a thing or two about making cars handle. Naturally, there are plenty of suspension upgrade options available out there, like coilovers as well as air. In terms of performance, while there’s not much available in terms of NA mods (though an exhaust will make it sound awesome), you can slap a supercharger on there for a healthy power boost if your pockets are deep enough.

Love car shows? Do you know we host a number of huge events throughout the year? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more info. 

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Many of us dread the sight of the engine management light, or to give it the official title, malfunction indicator light (MIL). Perhaps it’s the fear of the unknown, or the acceptance that your bank account might be about to take a beating. Whatever the reason may be, it’s always much better to tackle that little light with a more optimistic outlook. Not only could the Zen mindset save you a bit of stress, but on top of that, MILs often have an easy fix. It may be something, or it may be nothing, but whatever’s going on under your car’s hood, an OBD2 scanner will give you the anxiety-quashing answers you need.

Gone are the days of expensive equipment that only professional mechanics would have, nowadays you can get hold of some great OBD2 scanners without breaking the bank. In the world of modern motoring, a portable OBD2/EOBD scanner is a seriously useful bit of kit to have in your arsenal. So, without further ado, here’s some of the best fault code readers that you can buy today.

Best OBD2 Scanners At a Glance

Under £100/$100

• Best Buy: Foxwell NT301. RRP: £77.20, buy here / $89.99, buy here.
• Best Budget Buy: Foxwell NT200. RRP: £38.95, buy here. Not available in the US.
• Best Bluetooth OBD2 scanner: vGate vLinker MC+. RRP: £54.89, buy here / $62.99, buy here.
• Recommended: Autel AutoLink AL419. RRP: £69.00 (new AL519 model), buy here. $75.00, buy here.

Under $200/£200

• Recommended: Foxwell NT680 Lite. RRP: £199.52, buy here. $199.95, buy here.
• Recommended: Launch CRP123 Premium. RRP: £139.00, buy here. Not available in the US.

Best OBD2 Scanners Under £100/$100

Foxwell NT301

Award: Best Buy
RRP: £77.20, buy here / $89.99, buy here.

This is a good example of the more you pay, the more you get. When compared to other entry level options, by spending an additional 30-50%, you get a larger full-colour screen with a graphical menu, and more clearly-labelled buttons. Foxwell supplies the NT301 with a rubber-coated surround, a 92cm lead and a separate USB lead to connect to a PC for updates and generating printouts. Aside from these more upmarket features, the reader performs similar functions to its cheaper rivals, so for the extra money, you’re getting a reader that is easier to use and is larger and more colourful.

For example, it caters for the same range of vehicles, provides live and freeze-frame data, reads I/M readiness data, can clear fault codes and switch off the MIL. However, there are some additional features up its sleeve too, such as its ability to record and play back live data, or convert that data into figures or a graph. Some engine components can be tested and there’s an emissions monitor status (three different warning symbols, whereby one of them is illuminated), which can be used with the engine running to identify emissions-related problems.

When I connected the NT301 to our Peugeot 107 test car, with its pre-generated faults and illuminated MIL, the device beeped and its red exclamation warning illuminated on the front panel. The correct fault codes were displayed alongside a definition of each, with the EVAP fault being classed as pending.

Based on price and features in the low budget category, we found the Foxwell NT301 ticked more boxes than its competitors, thus earning it our Best Buy award for this segment of the market, earning it a spot on the list of the best OBD2 scanners.

Foxwell NT200

Award: Best Budget Buy
RRP: £38.95, buy here. Not available in the US.

You can use the Foxwell NT200 with all 2001+ petrol and 2004+ diesel cars with an OBDII port, although it can also communicate with many Euro Fords dating back to the mid-nineties and various American models from 1996 onwards.

Foxwell stipulates that this tool is suitable for diagnosing engine-related fault codes, but it cannot switch off a service indicator light, an airbag light, or ABS light. However, it can clear engine fault codes, enabling you to fix a problem, clear the codes and see whether it returns.

You can monitor intermittent faults live, which is useful for figuring out what activates them when the engine is running. Plus, you can monitor engine data, such as intake temperature or ambient temperature, to help identify a problem. There’s also a freeze-frame option to view recorded engine data at the point a fault has occurred, along with an I/M readiness view where you can view emissions-related checks.

Thousands of fault code definitions are stored inside this handheld reader, so there’s no need to translate them, and many manufacturer-specific fault codes are available as well. Plus the tool uses software which you can update via a PC (updates are free for the life of the tool). Any logged faults that are retrieved are displayed one at a time on screen along with a definition – our Peugeot 107 test car was correctly diagnosed by the NT200 after I had disconnected the plugs for the CPS and EVAP purge solenoid.

vGate vLinker MC+

Award: Best Bluetooth Scanner
RRP: £54.89, buy here. $59.89, buy here.

I tested the vLinker MC+ very recently and was surprised with just how versatile it is. Built by Chinese electronic manufacturer vGate is easy to use and is compatible with several apps on Android, iOS and Windows.

I put the vLinker MC+ to the test by using a test Audi A3 with a parking sensor failure. The Bluetooth scanner quickly discovered the fault (I used the Car Scanner app) as well as provided an in-depth check of the car’s systems. In fact, the scanner is far more detailed that I expected. You can display live data to monitor engine values, as well as fuel consumption and even acceleration times. Read my full vLinker MC+ review here.

Autel AutoLink AL419

Award: Recommended
RRP: £69.00 (new AL519 model), buy here / $75.00, buy here.

Supplied in a neat soft carrycase with a detachable lead (data link connector) and a 65-page user’s manual printed in a sufficiently large font, this OBD2 scanner provides all of the features offered by the Foxwell products above. This includes coverage of petrol vehicles from 2001 onwards and diesels from 2004, the ability to identify generic and manufacturer-specific fault codes, switch off the MIL and clear fault codes, display live and freeze-frame data and show I/M readiness data. You can look up fault codes (DTC) via a library with a definition displayed on-screen, and there’s also a code breaker function that provides further information on a fault. On top of that, these fault codes and information can be updated online by plugging the device into an internet-connected PC (USB cable supplied).

The control buttons are clearly labelled and comprehensive, with a dedicated I/M and a help button. The I/M button is a little frustrating because the device runs through a full language/protocol check each time, even if it has already done this.

It’s clear that for your money when compared to the other cheaper devices, you generally get a more rugged-looking reader with a carrycase and detachable lead, but is it worth the extra cash if the rest of the features seem similar to what Foxwell offers? The overall device is much easier to use, but some people may think that doesn’t justify the extra expense.

When I connected the device to our test Peugeot 107 with its two pre-determined faults, one of its warning symbols illuminated and both fault codes were correctly listed and defined under the Read Codes menu option.

Best OBD2 Scanners Under $200/£200

Foxwell NT680 Lite

Award: Recommended
RRP: £199.52, buy here / $199.52, buy here.

Supplied in a plastic-moulded carrycase with a detachable lead (data link connector), the Lite version of the Foxwell NT680 is significantly cheaper than the Pro version, so is it worth buying? Well, the Lite certainly seems to offer a lot, especially for the engine-related criteria this test is focusing on. It can cater for the usual wide range of vehicles (2001-on for petrol engines and 2004-on for diesels), and can also reset the service light. Plus, while it’s not relevant to our test, it covers ABS, airbags and gearbox faults and can also communicate with the electronic park brake on 42 marques of vehicle.

When I connected the NT680 Lite to our Peugeot 107 after disconnecting its wiring plugs for the CPS and EVAP purge solenoid, it correctly displayed a stored code for the CPS (fault code and description) and a pending code for the EVAP. I also tried connecting and diagnosing faults using the Lite’s manufacturer-specific diagnostics. This requires you to select the continent of manufacture (Europe), then the manufacturer, model and engine, which opens up various aspects for assessment: ABS, ECU, gearbox and airbag, for example. This route provided access to a much deeper range of systems and live data that goes beyond what the universal EOBD/OBDII route can do.

In this price category, I felt that NT680 Lite offered the best value for money based on the fact that it’s the cheapest device to offer an oil reset function and performs well when analysing faults and live data via the EOBD and manufacturer-specific routes. However, I also found it offered the best overall features for its price. So I chose this as Fast Car’s Best Buy for mid-to-high budgets.

Launch CRP123 Premium

Award: Recommended
RRP: £139.00, buy here. Not available in the US.

This is Launch’s entry-level fault code reader and is the only device in our test that has a two-year warranty. It’s certainly a professional-looking OBD2 scanner at a moderate price, but are looks all you get for your money, or does it offer any additional features? Launch supplies the landscape-shaped device a rubberized protective surround and a separate data link connector cable, but no carrycase.

The typical features for an OBD2 scanner are available, including diagnosing and clearing fault codes, looking them up via a DTC library, switching off the MIL, viewing live and freeze-frame data and assessing I/M monitors. This device will also cater for transmission, ABS and airbag (SRS) systems, although we’re not looking at these for this test.

I liked the simplistic layout of the screen, which begins with three menu options for Diagnose, Settings and Help. Diagnose leads to three more options for EOBD, Scan and Review. The Help options are impressive, with a DTC library and a useful explanation of abbreviations.
Our fault code testing using the Peugeot 107 was successfully diagnosed by the Launch CRP123 using the EOBD route, which correctly displayed each fault code alongside a definition.

We tried to communicate with the 107’s ECU via a manual scan approach, which requires the make and model to be selected along with the system in use. I could then retrieve and clear fault codes and view live data (data stream), although the latter option failed on our old Peugeot 107, but I could appreciate the greater potential for manufacturer-specific diagnostics that the Launch CRP123 offers.

How were the best OBD2 scanners tested?

For an OBD2 scanner to be tested effectively, the car you connect to should already be throwing fault codes. This allows the device to search the car and note down faults. As a result, we used two vehicles, a Peugeot 107 and an Audi A3, both of which had different faults. The Peugeot 107 was showing an Engine Management Light, while the Audi A3 was suffering from a faulty parking sensor. Each OBD2 scanner on test was able to identify the correct faults, while some offered a description as to what the fault was.

What is an OBD2 scanner?

An OBD2 scanner is simply a device that can connect to your vehicle’s diagnostics via an OBD2 port located in your car. The device is able to connect with the vehicle and display a variety of different vehicle diagnostics, with its primary use being the ability to read fault codes being shown by the vehicle. Fault codes can arise from all manner of different issues, covering both minor and major faults. By connecting to the vehicle, you, or a professional, is able to correctly diagnose a fault based on the code being shown. It’s a vital piece of equipment that mechanics use to resolve issues.

Be sure to check out our guide on OBD2 scanners vs readers for more information on diagnostic tools.

Looking for more tools and tech for your garage? Check these out:

• Best screwdriver sets
• Best car battery jump starters
• Best cordless ratchets & drivers
• Best tool set for beginners

Love car shows? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment events here. 

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The Mk1 Audi TT was something of a revelation. We mentioned in our Mk1 buying guide that cars don’t go into production in concept form. How does a manufacturer follow that? It does so by producing a car with cleaner lines. Thoroughly refreshing it to incorporate the latest technology and boy does it make the Audi TT Mk2 a good one.

While the Mk1 made do with a Golf platform, the 2006-launched Audi TT Mk2 got a slightly more bespoke package. It received an aluminium and steel Audi space frame based on the PQ35 platform, otherwise known as the A5. You might be thinking, that’s a big car for this application? In truth, the Mk2 offered sharper handling and driver involvement to give a more rewarding package.

As enthusiasts, you’ll know that you got a whole host of engine choices with the Mk2 TT.  This allows you to properly decide what suits your needs. We’ll delve into what you need to know in the guide to help you in buying your Audi TT Mk2.

Audi TT Mk2 History

Audi ditched the Mk1’s 1.8-litre turbo four-pot in favour of the 2.0-litre TFSI found in the Golf GTI. The starting block for performance on the TT when launched in 2006 was 200bhp. 0-62mph came in 6.4 seconds and 150mph top speed. This was exclusively in coupé form to begin with, roadsters didn’t go on sale until the end of 2006. The roadsters got the same engine and transmission options as offered on the coupé models.

Carried over from the Mk1 was the peachy 3.2-litre V6 engine. Performance was rated at a healthy 250bhp with a 0-62mph sprint time of 5.7 seconds and limited 155mph top speed. All V6s were equipped with Quattro, while the lesser-powered 2.0-litre came only in FWD.

Audi TTS and TT RS Mk2

The TTS then followed the roadster. This boosted power to 268bhp and was fitted again with Quattro only, meaning your 0-62mph time was now 5.4 seconds. Top speed was limited to 155mph. The roadster version was marginally slower, but the difference is negligible. Another thing to note here, all TTS models were fitted with Audi’s adaptive magnetic damping system. While the clever damping system isn’t known to be a common problem, fixing any issues can be expensive.

Those wanting the sports car lifestyle but with the extra economy could do so with a 2.0-litre turbodiesel with 170bhp. But it’s the TT RS that followed that got everyone excited.

The long-awaited car was teased for some time before it arrived in 2009. It came with that whopping 2.5-litre five-pot that hit the sweet spot in terms of performance and noise. Performance sat at 340bhp. This took the 0-62mph down to 4.4 seconds and on to 174mph if the first owner opted to have the speed limiter lifted.

How do you follow a 2.5-litre five-pot, with a 1.8-litre TFSI of course… it’s confusing how Audi chooses to release products in an unusual timeline. This was now the baby of the range, and the most affordable. Gone was Quattro and FWD replaced it. Power sat at a humble 160bhp.

Mid-life update

In 2010, the entire range got a mid-life update. This brought in LED daytime running lights as standard for all models badged S Line. While the 2.0-litre TFSI engines got a spruce up in performance, lifting power from 200bhp to 211bhp. It also gave all non-RS models a sport button to adjust throttle sensors. At the top of the tree for the Mk2 TT was the TT RS Plus. This lifted power over the already bonkers 340bhp RS to 360bhp. Not too shabby for a “hairdressers” car.

What to look out for when buying an Audi TT Mk2

With the history out of the way, it’s time to look at what you should be looking out for. The good news is that because it’s a 2006+ car, the oldest examples are 18 years old; VagCom diagnostics tool can be your best friend if you know how to use it. Most of the information about the car can be read through the tool.  This includes the current wear on the DSG box, which is crucial as we know problems with the box can be rather expensive.

History on any car is always key. The car you’re looking at may only be 7 or so years old but if it’s missed the last two major services and has been bashed off the limiter half of its life, you don’t want to be the person that picks up the invoice for the problem when it eventually breaks.

Audi TT Mk2 Engines

You’ll be pleased to hear that all five engines have proven to be mostly reliable over the years. Provided servicing has been adhered to. The intervals for such are 19,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. If you’re looking at the 2.0-litre models, note that cambelts should have been changed at 75,000 miles. If the car you’re looking at is coming up to that milestone, the cost of replacement isn’t astronomical, between £300 and £500 if you want to haggle on price.

Remember there are two different 2.0-litre engines, one before and one after 2010. The earlier cars were fitted with the EA113 engine, which is cambelt driven, the latter is the EA888 engine, which is chain driven. Both are tuneable, and both are known to be reliable.

Ignition coil packs are one of known problems and can cause misfiring. You’ll notice this if the engine isn’t running smoothly or if the engine fails altogether. Each cylinder carries a coil pack and that’ll set you back around £35 per pack, so bear that in mind.

Owners have noted that the TT can be fairly heavy on oil use, so this shouldn’t be cause for concern, just something to be wary of before buying one.

Transmission

Most cars were sold with a DSG gearbox, thus most cars you’ll be looking at buying will have the semi-auto box. This is no bad thing as the DSG system is a sophisticated and slick operating machine, when it works. Audi did recall Mk2s built between August and September 2009 for incorrect clutch temperature readings by the ECU, which in turn caused the clutches to disengage and lose drive. Check the history to make sure that’s been completed.

Elsewhere, the S Tronic DSG gearboxes can also be troublesome at low speeds, if one starts to stutter or hesitate, you’ve got a problem on your hands. It’s advised that once getting the engine and gearbox up to temperature on your test drive, slow right down and crawl, listening out for any signs of damage. You’ll start to kangaroo if there’s a major problem. Audi specialists pinpointed the problem to the Mechatronic control unit. This will either need replacing at the tune of nearly £1000, or rebuilt by a specialist auto-electrician who’ll have it done for under half that price.

As for manual owners, the clutch isn’t high on your problems list. The clutch should have been replaced at 60,000 miles. Remember, the Quattro powered cars were the more powerful models and thus will most likely have been launched hard over the years, which is something to keep in mind.

On all Quattro models, get a mechanic to check out the Haldex system, it has been known to create problems and can also be expensive to fix. If it’s had a hard life of being launched, wear over the years can build up.

Suspension, wheels and brakes

With the Mk2, Audi introduced a refreshed multilink rear suspension system, as well as MacPherson strut at the front end. Most of the models you’ll be looking at come with this set up, but as mentioned above, some were opted with the Magnetic Ride system. In truth, owners tend to think the sport setting with the Magnetic ride is too stiff for UK roads, so this shouldn’t necessarily be at the top of your wish list.

There was a recall on the Mk2 for cars built between May and July 2009 for the braking system, more notably the vacuum pipe on the servo that may become damaged. This was more of a precaution, rather than a necessity. The other thing to note with the brakes is a squeal coming from the front at low speed. Some owners swapped out the discs and pads which did the trick, others simply placed copper grease on the back of the brake pads.

According to owners, tyres is a huge issue with the TT. Not only do tyres wear far quicker on Quattro models than FWD models, but some owners put cheap tyres on. This is a big no as TTs are sensitive to tyres. Don’t cheap out, get yourself a decent set of tyres.

Note, the TT doesn’t come with a spare wheel or space-saver, instead it came with a compressor and repair kit. This will 9 times out of 10 be missing from the car you’re buying.

Audi TT Mk2 interior & electrics

When buying, do the usual checks. Make sure all of the dashboard lights work, the radio, sat-nav, windows and the like all work. If you’re looking at roadsters, check to make sure the roof folds away under its own power and seals shut. It sounds simple but so many forget to check all of the electrical points. Why have a roadster if you can’t actually take the roof down?

Next, make sure the roof seals. This is most likely something to test after you’ve bought the car but ask with the owner if it’s OK you test that the roof is sealed properly. Just use a hosepipe over the car and check for water in the boot and cabin. Wet door cards are a clear indication of a poor seal. It’s not an expensive fix, but not worth the hassle with so many cars on the market.

Audi was pretty generous with standard equipment on the Mk2 TT so you should find Bluetooth, air con and a flat bottom steering wheel as standard. Don’t fall for adverts claiming these as extras. The sat-nav was optional, as was the Bose sound system.

Word of advice, don’t buy an Audi TT Mk2 if you plan on using the rear seats. It’s not suitable for anyone unless in use by a toddler.

How much to pay for an Audi TT Mk2

The best thing about the Audi TT Mk2 is that prices have decreased considerably. Just a few years ago, the bottom line for a 3.2-litre V6 was around £6,000, that figure is now as low as £3,500, albeit for a car with high mileage. The 2.0-litre petrols are by far the cheapest, 100k mile examples are under £3000 in both coupe and roadster form.

If you want a TTS, you’re looking at around £6k to £8k for examples with between 70,000 and 100,000 miles. The one you really want, the TTRS, will set you back at least £13k. We’d expect to pay more like £17k for a cleaner example with mileage under 50,000.

Audi TT Mk2 modifications

You’ve bought your new Mk2 Audi TT, now you want to make it your own. Follow these simple steps and you’ll be well on your way to create a show-ready car with enough punch to back up its looks.

It doesn’t matter which engine we’re looking at, choices for modifications come far and wide. That being said, we’ll start here with a TTS, which uses the 2.0-litre turbocharged engine with 272bhp on tap in standard form.

Exhaust

Downpipe

There’s a ton of options out there from some of the most well-known exhaust fabricators in the UK, so the choice is down to you. Scorpion offer a de-cat system or sports catalyst for under £300. Couple this with a map and you’ll be looking at the mid-300bhp range with the torque to match. You’ll also unlock some extra grunt in the form of sound, you might even gain a few pops and bangs along the way…

Cat-back

You can either match a cat-back exhaust up with a fresh downpipe or you can just opt for a cat-back system and mate to the standard exhaust. You’ll see less gains overall, but you’ll free up a few ponies and transform the sound of the car. Milltek will be perfect for the job, livening up the sound without adding a silly amount of drone. Prices start at around £600. Be sure to check out our guide to the best exhaust brands out there for more advice.

Suspension

There are two ways you can go about doing this, either focus on creating the ultimate show car, or focus on creating a crisp handling street weapon. The first option will see you looking towards air ride suspension. The other option will see you looking at the likes of Bilstein or KW. If your primary focus is road driving, your best bet will be a spring and damper set up from Bilstein. The B14 kit retains some level of comfort on the road, but will allow you to take part in the odd track day without any problems. KW, on the other hand, will be much more focused for track work with 30-way adjustable damping. Prices for the KW system sits at around £1700, while the B14 kit comes in cheaper at £900.

Wheels

Again, aftermarket wheel options are far and wide here but we’re going to focus on some lightweight BBS E88s that can be bought in a range of different sizes. The lighter, classic motorsport look will transform the appearance while also helping to shed a few pounds in the weight category. The best thing is that these look at home on the racetrack or centre stage at a show.

ECU

There’s a few choices out there for ECU tuning, all of whom promise similar power figures and have become household names in the VAG tuning world, we’re of course talking about APR, MRC and Revo. A simple ECU tweak can see gains up to 300bhp. However, couple the map with the upgrades listed above and a new air intake and you can see more like 330bhp. For that extra bit more, Revo recommend an uprated high pressure fuel pump as well as an uprated intercooler to see power up to around 365bhp.

If you’ve got a DSG gearbox, don’t forget that the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) can also be updated giving sharper gear changes and higher RPM limits.

Interior

Last but not least, the interior. Those rear seats have got to go. They’re no good for regular sized humans, let alone toddlers. You can save a decent chunk of weight by taking those out. You could then go further, remove some sound proofing here and there to bring the weight down further, or you can transform the rear with a half cage for that Clubsport look or go the opposite direction with a new entertainment system.

Love German cars? After a successful first event in 2023, German Car Festival is back for a second installment this October 5th at its new home, Goodwood Motor Circuit. Visit the event website for information on tickets.

The post Audi TT Mk2 Buyer’s Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

With Ford Fair selling out club tickets well ahead of the club deadline, Ford clubs acted fast to secure their spot at the UK’s biggest and best Ford show. The Mk4/4.5 Focus ST Owners Group were one such proactive club, with 120 cars booked to be on display at the event in 2024. To find out more about this impressive bunch of Blue Oval brothers (and sisters!) we spoke to club founder Louise Rowlands to get the lowdown…

VITAL INFO

Name: Mk4/4.5 Focus ST Owners Group

Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/522413018593725

Instagram: @Mk4FocusSTOwners

Email: Mk4STOwners@gmail.com

Models covered: Focus ST Petrol and Diesel Mk4 & 4.5

Cost to join: Free

When was the club first founded, and why?

We formed this group back in October 2019 after a club I had joined folded due to the club founder cancelling his order. I wanted to be part of a group specifically for the latest Focus ST and there were not many out there. With the support of my husband Derek and some fellow owners, the group was created. Then the hard work began. I can’t thank my team (Derek, Angela, Lee, and Jamie) enough for their continued support with running the group.

How many active members does the club currently have?

Currently we have around 1500 members, based all over the world. We currently have members from the UK, Europe, Taiwan and Australia.  The group is continuing to grow steadily, and is exclusively for owners – from the start, we asked what members wanted and the response was that they wanted a group purely for owners of the Mk4, so that they could share their experiences with fellow owners.

We have over 1400 followers on Instagram and offer those followers that are not in the Facebook group the opportunity to join us at shows and events.

Which models does the club cater for?

Mk4 and Mk4.5 Focus ST only (both petrol and diesel), but it doesn’t matter if it’s standard or heavily modified, all are welcome.

What does the club offer to new members?

All members are welcomed into the group by one of the admin team and are asked to do an introductory post about themselves. They are pointed in the direction of our discounts, and we have regular events from major shows to smaller local events to be part of. They get the amazing knowledge of all our members, including the admin and group experts, and good old merchandise for representing the group too.

Can you describe a typical club member?

Approachable, helpful and friendly with a wicked sense of humour. Goes the extra mile to help everyone no matter where they are.

What shows and events does the club usually attend?

Our show programme is usually packed with around 10 shows per year, including Ford Fair. Our Events manager always delivers a fun packed season that’s for sure!

What’s the best thing about being a member of the club?

If I may use quotes from some of our members: “A friendly community who are respectful to each other.”
“You have got this group right, it’s like belonging to a massive family.”
“This group has kept me going through some difficult times.”
“A place where I feel safe, and no-one disrespects each other.”
“The best bunch of crazy people with awesome cars.”
“Everyone is willing to help each other out, whether on a post, DM or a Face Time.”
“I used to have money until I joined this group! All the members are bad influences when it comes to trying to keep a car standard!”

Where do you see the club in five years’ time?

Larger than a lot of similar clubs out there. A group that everyone wants to join not just because of their love of the car they own but because we put our heart and soul into everything we do. We are not just any car group – we are a family.

The post Club Spotlight: Mk4/4.5 Focus ST Owners Group appeared first on Fast Car.

If you want to know more about FN2 Honda Civic Type R tuning, then you’ve come to the right place. We’ll look at which parts need upgrading and which don’t. The aim is to give you a better idea of where you should spend your money, and what your next upgrade should be.

It’s worth noting, the third Type R is quite similar under the skin to the earlier EP3 model despite the radically different styles.

The Honda Civic Type R has long been the go-to hot hatch for keen drivers. It offers an intoxicating blend of rev-hungry, naturally-aspirated VTEC power mixed with a fantastically playful chassis. The FN2 is a perfect example of this, but like all mainstream production cars it does have its restrictions.

Thankfully, there’s an enormous tuning scene and an army of specialists to support Civic Type R FN2 tuning. Whether that’s sticking to the FN2’s naturally aspirated roots and crafting a throttle-bodied, 9000rpm-screaming track weapon, or adding some boost to create a brutish forced-induction fast-road monster ready to go supercar-hunting, the FN2 Type R can do it and can do it well.

Here’s what you should be looking to upgrade when tuning your Civic Type R FN2.

Civic Type R FN2 Engine Tuning

The FN2 Type R’s 2.0-litre K20 engine kicks out a credible 198bhp and revs right round to 7,800rpm without fuss. Those are impressive numbers for any hot hatch of the time but are particularly striking for a natural-aspirated 2.0-litre; the Ford Focus ST of the same era only produces 24bhp more from its 2.5-litre, turbocharged, five-cylinder engine!

But therein lies the FN2’s biggest problem when it comes to performance tuning; it’s already so well optimised from the factory that you won’t see the same huge gains other cars enjoy from simple bolt-on mods. That said, there is still a lot more to come from the K20 if your tickle it in the right places.

There are two distinct routes to tuning the FN2’s motor: stick to naturally aspirated tuning or do what Honda was eventually forced to do with the later FK2 Civic Type R and add some boost.

Remapping

Die-hard fans prefer to stick with naturally aspirated tuning to retain the FN2’s rev-hungry character – it is the last of the screaming VTEC breed after all. Therefore, Civic Type R FN2 tuning typically begins with a remap for around £500 – which, unlike the previous EP3 Type R, is installed via the OBD2 port on the FN2, making Type R tuning much easier.

Don’t expect massive peak power gains though; an extra 15bhp or so is all you’ll get from an otherwise stock FN2. But that’s not the point at this stage; the main benefits of the remap are more mid-range torque and a lower VTEC crossover point, getting you onto the more aggressive cam profile sooner for added urgency.

Performance Exhaust

To make the most of the remap, performance hardware is needed. The main restrictions here, as ever, are inlet and exhaust systems.

Naturally aspirated engines are particularly sensitive to exhaust tuning, and a cat-back system on its own does little more than improve the soundtrack on an FN2. Instead, for any meaningful gains you’ll be looking at a performance 4-2-1 exhaust manifold from the likes of Tegiwa, Japspeed, or Toda Racing.

Prices range from around £350 for the Japspeed item, to over £1500 for the Toda Racing kit . Add a sports cat (or de-cat for track cars where road legality isn’t an issue) and a cat-back system to complete the package. Japspeed and Cobra Sport offer 2.5in (63mm) systems for the FN2 – the former costing around £550, and the latter £850 – but many tuners prefer the larger 3in (70mm) bore of the Tegiwa cat-back exhaust, which is available for less than £500.

Intake Tuning

Next up you’ll need to look at getting air into the motor fast enough to match. Replacing the stock airbox with an induction kit is your next move, and there are plenty of options to suit your budget. An Injen cold air intake kit will set you back £350, but you can spend as much as £1000 on the Mugen kit. The Tegiwa carbon airbox (£450) is a popular choice, as is the HKS kit (£530).

With the basic principles of induction, exhaust, and remap covered, you can expect to see around 220-225bhp from the FN2. The next levels include adding a performance inlet for around £500 (taking power to approximately 230bhp), and finally adding a set of performance camshafts (£620) will give you enough to reach 240bhp.

Further NA Upgrades

And 240bhp is the sweet spot when it comes to Civic Type R FN2 tuning; it’s visceral, lively, and aggressive, and retains that naturally aspirated high-revving character – over 9,000rpm is possible, but you’ll want to add a modified oil pump to prevent oil cavitation at those speeds.

Further tuning will see the use of a larger throttle body, or a set of individual throttle bodies, and when coupled with a K24 2.4-litre bottom end to create what is affectionately known as a Frankenstein engine (stuffed full of appropriate high-compression pistons, beefy con-rods, and so on) we’ve seen over 300bhp achieved from a naturally aspirated Civic Type R. But it does start to get very expensive, and there are other, much easier ways to unleash that sort of power from the Civic Type R FN2… By adding boost.

Civic Type R FN2 Forced Induction Tuning

One of the easiest ways to get big power from Civic Type R FN2 tuning is to add a supercharger kit .The K20 responds well to a bit of added boost; the extra low-down grunt works in harmony with the VTEC’s top end. Kits like those from TTS Performance use the Rotrex range of centrifugal superchargers, with kits starting at around £3600 for parts-only. For that you’d be looking at the entry-level, non-intercooled kit with a C30-94 blower running around 7psi of boost – but that’s still man enough to add around 100bhp at the wheels.

Upgrading to TTS’s Supersport kit sees a front-mount intercooler and suitable radiator upgraded added, alongside a high-flow Walbro fuel pump and 4-bar MAP sensor, but retains the C30-94 unit, now producing over 12psi of boost. That’s enough for 350bhp at the wheels – and you can push 400bhp with some clever use of water/methanol injection too.

Amazingly, there are bigger blowers available too; TTS offers kits with C38 superchargers that will take the power all the way to 600bhp, but you’ll need a fully forged build if you want to run more than around 14psi of boost.

Of course, superchargers aren’t the only way to add boost; we’ve seen epic 700bhp-plus results from a turbocharged Civic Type R FN2, but these are custom one-off builds with price tags to match. It just goes to show that anything is possible if you really want it, though.

For more advice on engine tuning, be sure to check out our guide on how to tune the K20 engine.

Civic Type R FN2 Transmission Tuning

Clutch

The stock FN2 Type R transmission will cope with most things thrown at it. The stock clutch won’t.

For anything more than mild mods, you need an upgraded clutch. A typical stage 2 kit costing under £500 will handle as much torque as you’re ever likely to see from naturally aspirated Civic Type R FN2 tuning, but supercharged and turbocharged cars might need to look to for something with added bite.

The good news is it’s all available. Some tuners also recommend swapping to a lightweight 3.2kg chromoly flywheel at the same time; it only costs around £240 and perfectly fits the K20’s rev-happy nature.

Driveshafts

One area you might need to look at, and almost certainly will for big-power boost applications, is the stock driveshafts. For mild increases they’re fine, but an enthusiastically driven Type Rs, even in NA tune, will chew through them. Upgrades for sub-250bhp cars are available for around £120 per side, but a pair of units capable of up to 500bhp will set you back around £600.

Gear Sets

K20 tuning is popular in the United States and given their love for drag racing and insane amounts of horsepower, some US tuners have even developed uprated gear sets for the stock transmission.

PPG offers a four-speed dog-engagement gearset that is rated to 1000bhp but losing the top two gears isn’t ideal for anything outside of a dedicated drag car.

A better bet would be a set of uprated helical gears from MFactory; at $2500 they’re reasonably priced and have been proven to work in 350-to-400bhp race cars. For the ultimate, money-no-object transmission upgrade, Quaife’s QKE8J five-speed sequential gearbox will make your FN2 Civic Type R feel like a touring car when shifting gears.

Differentials

Almost unbelievably for a car of this nature, Honda fitted the FN2 Type R with a conventional open differential from the factory. One of the best ways to improve the overall driving experience, especially on a tuned FN2 Civic Type R, is to swap that for a limited-slip type differential.

Which type you choose will depend on your driving style and what you use the car for, but most owners prefer the torque-biasing types such as Quaife’s ATB, or the MFactory helical LSD. Prices range from around £600 to £750, plus fitting, but are a worthy upgrade and make a lot of sense when the gearbox is out for a clutch replacement/upgrade; adding one will transform the way your FN2 Type R handles.

Civic Type R FN2 Suspension Tuning

It was never intended to be a comfy motorway cruiser, so when it comes to chassis tuning the Civic Type R FN2 you might as well go for it and create a proper little buzzy B-road blaster. If you bought one as a comfy commuter, you bought the wrong car. But if you want to leave the supercar exotica for dead when the road gets twisty, here’s how.

Springs & Dampers

The first step is, as always, a set of lowering springs. These are cheap (sub-£200) and simultaneously improve both ride and handling and the overall aesthetics too. But for the most noticeable improvement, a set of adjustable coilovers will bring your FN2 Civic Type R to life. Tein, MeisterR, and BC Racing upgrades are all available for around £1000, and all do a good job of firming up the suspension for fast road and track use but without compromising quality or day-to-day useability. Just be weary of coilover kits that seem too cheap to be true; remember the adage ‘you get what you pay for’.

Anti-Roll Bars

Working in conjunction with a set of coilovers, uprated anti-roll bars will help tune the FN2 Civic Type R to give even more grip. Many performance upgrades feature multiple settings to make the bar stiffer or softer, so you can play around and find the perfect setup for you.

Bushes

One more area of the suspension worth looking at is the bushes. Most of the stock rubber bushes will be worn out by now, so replacing them with a firmer polyurethane upgrade makes a lot of sense; not only do you get a genuine performance benefit of the stiffer bush and less unwanted flex in the suspension system, but they’ll never need replacing again in the future.

A full bush kit will cost around £350, but individual areas can be upgraded at a time, with prices ranging from £60 for front wishbone bushes to £140 for rear beam bushes.

Geometry

Like all hot hatches, getting the suspension geometry correct is key to fantastic handling. Perhaps one of the best upgrades when it comes to Civic Type R FN2 tuning is to dial-in some fast-road settings.

Again, this is all personal preference, but a starting with around 1-deg of negative camber both front and rear, with 1mm toe-in at the front and 2mm toe-out at the rear is a good base to build from. A set of camber bolts from Eibach (£20) will allow you to dial in the front, while at the rear you’ll need to add their camber shim plates (£17) to get the required settings.

Civic Type R FN2 Brake Tuning

The FN2’s brakes are the same as those found on the earlier EP3 version; they work well biting down on the factory 300mm discs, and even look presentable with the raised ‘Type R’ lettering cast into the caliper. Therefore, the first upgrade for most owners is a simple case of fitting some performance pads and discs from the likes of EBC.

But for those who use their Type R on track, or just want some more pose factor for the show ground, binning the single-piston sliders in favour of some big sexy six-pots is the way to go. Dynodaze has seen good results with the YellowSpeed big brake kit, comprising a 330mm disc and six-pot caliper, available for around £1500.

Other options from K-Sport, CompBrake, and Tarox are also available, depending on your budget and requirements.

Performance Wheels & Tyres

The stock wheels and tyres are heavy – weighing 22kg each – and there are plenty of aftermarket wheels to choose from. So, ditching the originals in place of some lightweight performance alloys will not only allow you to improve the looks of your FN2 Civic Type R, but you’ll also gain a genuine performance edge too.

The stock rims are 7.5in wide with an ET55 offset for both 18in and 19in versions but increasing width to 8.0in means you can get a fatter tyre to help put all that power to the tarmac. The stock ET55 does mean the wheels tuck in the arches a tad too much; ET40 fills the arches much better and still avoids clearance issues, even on an 8.0in rim.

As for tyres, fit the best you can afford. Fit budget-spec ditch-finders at your peril.

Check out our best Honda Civic Type R wheels guide for some FN2 wheel inspiration. 

Interior Upgrades For Civic Type R FN2

The FN2 comes well spec’d as standard. It does everything you want it to, so any upgrades in here will be purely personal choice; dress it all up in sexy carbon fibre, add some luxurious diamond-stitched retrim upholstery, and give everything a warm bathing glow of aftermarket lighting upgrades? Or just rip it all out in the name of saving weight before bolting in a roll cage and pair of bucket seats?

The choice is yours. Just don’t fit a big stereo – nobody wants to listen to your The Corrs Greatest Hits album over a screaming K20!

Civic Type R FN2 Styling Modifications

The eighth-generation Civic is one of the most recognisable cars ever designed; the angular styling does a good job of getting noticed on all its own, without the need for huge body kits and other add-ons. But, of course, if you do want to personalise your FN2 Type R then upgrades like a Delta Styling rear wing and Mugen-inspired splitters, rear valance, fog vents, and grilles add some extra aggression without being too OTT.

Love modified cars? Then why not get yourself down to Silverstone this September 1st for the biggest celebration of modified cars, it’s Trax 2024!

The post Civic Type R FN2 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Pops, bangs and flames; everyone likes that, don’t they? Well, hell yes you do. As a result, ECU remaps that make your exhaust pop, bang, and flame when you lift off the throttle are popular. But how do pop and bang tunes work? More to the point, are they bad for your engine’s health? Unless you’ve been living in a cave for the last few years, we’re sure you’ve heard mixed reviews. This guide will aim to answer all those questions.

As this is a slightly controversial subject, some companies declined to get involved. But thankfully, Motorsport Developments are experts when it comes to remapping all factory ECUs, and gave us their words of wisdom. A huge thanks to them. They’re certainly the guys to speak to if you want a safe, but effective map yourself!

What are pop and bang maps?

The exhausts of heavily-tuned cars have naturally popped, banged and flamed since the dawn of time. Have you noticed lately, more cars have been popping and banging from the exhaust when the driver lets off the gas? Mildly-tuned motors and factory production cars now have a cool burbling exhaust on the overrun.

This is because lots of tuners and manufacturers have realized that owners love these kinds of noises. With modern engine management being so capable, it means they are now commonly mapped into the car’s ECU.

How does it make the pop and bangs?

For this bit, let’s start with the expert words of main man Stewart Sanderson from Motorsport Developments.

“Pops and bang maps, or burbles, is simply a calibration feature within the ECU. We set up a specifically targeted, very lean misfire once you lift off the throttle.”

Normally on an engine when you close the throttle, your fuel injectors don’t fire at all. This removes all the energy from your engine, allowing it to slow down. This process is smooth, quiet, and safe. No pops, no flames, no nothing.

Back to Stu’s: “If we want to create a burbling sound while the engine slows down, we need fuel. But, burning fuel will create some piston load too, slowing the rate the engine will decelerate on the overrun. So we need to move the energy away somehow to prevent that,” he explains. “To do this we need to do two things: retard the ignition timing to reducing the torque. This allows the car to decelerate normally, and run a very lean air/fuel ratio so too much heat isn’t created, which could affect reliability.”

The heavily retarded ignition also means much of the combustion happens within the exhaust system. The fuel is ignited by the hot exhaust or catalytic converter, hence the pops and crackles you hear from your tailpipe.

What about loud pops and bangs?

“The intensity of the burbles on these set-ups varies depending on the exhaust temperature; how hard the car’s been used. The hotter the exhaust system is, the easier this tiny amount of fuel we add flashes off,” Stu explains.

But what if you don’t want subtle OEM-style burbles and fancy something crazier? Well, the methods are similar to the above, but with a little more fuel added and even more ignition retard. We’ve seen people open the idle speed control valve or opening the drive-by-wire throttle a little for more air too. In fact, these modifications are the basis of how anti-lag systems work on rally cars. But this isn’t a performance mod, this is purely to create cool noises and flames!

Can crackle maps be applied to any engine? 

In a word, no. But it can be done to a hell of a lot more engines today than ever before. In theory, it can be done to any petrol engine. Whether that’s normally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged. Anything that has an ECU with which the fuel and ignition settings can be heavily modified.

Some cars can have their ignition retarded further still. They allow the ability to open the idle valve or open the throttle a little. This can can provide more extreme pops and bangs, if that’s what you want. Providing you can find a tuner capable of adjusting your ECU to suit. The vast majority of engines can have this applied to some extent at least.

Do pop and bang maps have any performance advantage? 

No. This is done purely for the noises. As it works in a similar manner to rally anti-lag systems, really extreme set-ups could work like a mild anti-lag system on a turbocharged engine. This would help keep your turbo up to speed. But in reality, the pops, bangs and burbles usually happen only for a few seconds after you let-off the gas; purely for the sound. If you were able to set it to such an extreme level that it had a true anti-lag function, you’d be calling it anti-lag.

Are pop and bang maps safe?

This is by far the most controversial part of this subject. While the answer is sometimes yes, providing your map has been done by someone reliable, it’s highly unlikely to cause issues. Any reliability issues will come from the same thing that gave performance remapping a bad reputation; people doing it badly.

OEMs have ECU tunes that include ‘burbles’ that are reliable and designed to last 100,000+ miles of hard use. Reliability issues stem from a remap being done in an unsafe manner. Usually, they’re too extreme for what the engine can handle, and therefore doing damage.

“We offer more extreme versions of the pops and burbles, but because this requires adding more fuel, you can only have it with a catalyst-free exhaust. There is only so much fuel you can burn off before you poison the catalyst. If it smells of sulphur, it’s dying,” says Stu.

Do pops and bangs damage your engine?

Extreme heat from richer mixtures and heavily retarded ignitions can cause extreme exhaust gas temperatures, which even with a de-cat could possibly damage lambda sensors, exhaust systems, and potentially more.

What are the chances of engine internal damage with one of these maps? If you look at the internet, every man and his pet monkey has a story about a friend of a friend whose uncle has damaged an engine due to this. We’ve yet to find a case where internal damage was definitely proven to be caused by the pops and bangs mapped in to the ECU.

Certain engines have relatively weak exhaust valves – Renault F4Rs, for example, and these maps have been blamed for damaging them quite a few times. Hard used versions of these engines often end up with the same valve damage, regardless of the map, so it’s still speculation rather than proof.

Again, speaking to the guys at Motorsport Developments, Kenny has seen cars come in to their shop with quite extreme ‘crackle map’ tunes done elsewhere, with 30-degrees of ignition retard and quite rich fuelling. This is verging on the settings you’d use on an anti-lag system, albeit only happening for a few seconds at a time on a map like this. This certainly isn’t something they’d recommend on a typical engine, and would cause really high EGTs during the ‘crackle’ period. It, therefore, has more potential for damage to be caused. But still, they’ve never personally seen engine internals damaged from this.

Should you get a pop and bang map?

Some people love pop and bang maps, while others hate them as they feel they create ‘fake’ noise. But if you want one, there’s no reason to believe your engine will be destroyed if you do things correctly. There’s still a lot of debate about this, but try as we might, we’ve seen no proof at all.

This is the important bit though – you need to ensure you have the right set-up for your engine. Do you have a cat, or an engine with a known weak point in the exhaust system or exhaust valves? If so, you’d be advised to keep it to a sensible, almost OEM-style burble.

But regardless of your set-up, choose your tuner wisely. Find someone who will ensure it’s reliable and safe for your particular set-up and chosen use. Pops and bangs are fun, but an engine that isn’t broken is even more fun. Don’t just go for someone who promises the craziest, loudest fireworks display from your exhaust – that’s just asking for trouble.

Words: Stav. Thanks to: Motorport Developments for all of the info and advice.

For more info on exhaust systems, check out the best car exhaust brands on sale.

The post Pop and Bang Maps Guide: Should You Get One? appeared first on Fast Car.

With Ford Fair selling out all club tickets more than a month prior to the event, the Oval Owners Club is one such club that will be on display with a huge presence. In fact, 170 cars are expected to be on display at Ford Fair 2024! We got in touch with Advan Jenkins, one of the club’s 15(!) admins, to talk about how the club formed, which shows they’ll be attending this year and how you can be a part of the fun.

When was the Oval Owners Club founded?

On a very cold 14^th January, 2017, on a now demolished Pub called the Darlaston Inn in Stone, all our meets are held monthly in Festival Park.

How many members does the club have?

• Facebook – 16k
• Instagram – 11.4k
• TikTok – 6k

Which models does the Oval Owners Club cater for?

We cater for all Fords, from a Fiesta all the way up to a 1700t, we are lucky to have some very nice cars in the group. Everyone is welcome!

What does the club offer new members?

Being part of the group means you can attend events on our club stand, take part in driveouts and attend our monthly meet, held at Autobrite, our club’s sponsor. We’ve also thrown the occasional Christmas party, too, which you can look forward to!

We also offer a Club Classics night in Leek throughout the summer for pre-2000 cars. It’s a joy to see all the older, iconic cars come out.

What shows and events does the club usually attend?

We attend all the large Ford shows so you can be sure to see us at one of the many events this summer. These events include:

• All Kelsey We have 170 cars on display at Ford Fair this year and we are going to Trax and FordFest too.
• We also attend Ford National day & RSOC national day
• We also try to attend some smaller shows locally in Stoke
• We try to do a couple of run outs to Wales as well across the year

What’s the best thing about being a member of the Oval Owners club?

Honestly, being in the club is like being a part of a family. There are no judgements on the car you drive, we cater for all enthusiasts. If you want to come take photos you can, if you want to catch up with likeminded people and get advice or tips, you can do that too.  All our events are static so you don’t have to worry about any accidents or anti-social behavior.

Sum up the club in 3 words

Passionate, family oriented  and LARGE.

Where do you see the Oval Owners club in five years?

We’re already one of the largest groups in the Ford scene, but we see the club continuing to grow, welcoming more and more members.  

We have just undergone a logo rebrand, and have redesigned our merchandise. You can see our brand new gazebo and flags that we have launched for the 2024 season at Ford Fair.

Club info/social media channels

Facebook – @Oval Owners Club

Insta – @ovalowners

TikTok – Ovalownersclub

Club Supporters

Finally, I want to say a big shoutout to the following brands for supporting the Oval Owners Club:

• Autobrite Direct
• Collins Performance
• Need to Insure
• Matt Lewis Motorsport

If you want to chat to the Oval Owners Club about being a part of the group, then you can meet with them at our events this summer. Get your tickets below: 

• Ford Fair
• FordFest
• Trax

The post Oval Owners Club Spotlight! appeared first on Fast Car.

The aftermarket car parts industry is massive. When you’re starting out modifying a car, it can be a bit tricky to figure out which brands you should turn to. After all, you don’t want to add shoddy parts to your pride and joy by mistake. In this article, I’ll focus on the suspension side of things – namely, coilovers, lowering springs, and air ride.

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