The EA888 was first introduced in 2007 and has been seen in many of the Volkswagen Group’s iconic hot hatches, not to mention its crossover and SUV range, as well as Cupra’s Leon and Ateca. However, it’s the third evolution of the TSI motor – the Gen 3 – that everybody is after on the car tuning scene. It’s no wonder, either, as the engine is so easy to tune and the aftermarket is saturated with uprated parts for it.

While the Gen 3 EA888 2.0T TSI, found in Volkswagen’s Mk7 Golf GTI and Golf R models, appears similar to the previous variants of motor (previously seen in cult cars like the Mk5 GTI and Mk6 Golf R), a lot of its internal parts are very different indeed. In fact, the third evolution of this extremely popular direct-injection engine has a thinner block which, as a result, makes it lighter than its predecessors while amazingly producing more power and yet returning better miles per gallon. It’s a win win!

One of the Gen 3 TSI’s party tricks is that it features an integrated water-cooled exhaust manifold which, not only speeds up the engine’s operating temperature, but, also helps it remain cool under load. The fact it doesn’t need extra fuel to help keep the exhaust temperature down is one of the main reasons for the improved fuel consumption.

But, less about fuel economy and the boring stuff, what about tuning? Well, we’re just about to get on to that…

How To Tune VW’s EA888 Engine: Gen 3 TSI Tuning

Firstly, it’s worth noting that while the Mk7 Golf GTI and R models both feature similar engines based around the EA888 Gen 3 TSI motor, these units aren’t exactly the same. The biggest and most noticeable difference you’ll find between the two is in the type of turbocharger used. The Mk7 GTI comes from the factory with an IHI IS20 unit, whereas the R sports an IS38 (which is obviously slightly larger than the GTI’s unit). The great part of the engines being so similar means that most of the bolt on and drop in tuning parts fit both. Even better is the fact that, even with stock internals, it is quite easy and affordable to achieve up to 400hp – and if you start dropping in uprated rods and pistons, then the sky really is the limit. Let’s not run before we can walk, though…

Stage 1 EA888 Tuning – Up to 90bhp gain (with remap software alone)

So, what does Stage 1 actually mean? Good question. Well, different people have different interpretations but in our mind, Stage 1 software’s intended use is with factory hardware. Flashing your stock car’s ECU with Stage 1 software is by far the easiest and cheapest bang per buck you can achieve. Some tuners even offer software that you can actually flash at home, while others can supply a custom map to suit your specific car and any other small mods you may have made. It’s hard to recommend any one product as there are a number of great companies out there, like Unitronic, Revo and HP Tuners (to name but a few) supplying fantastic software. We’d suggest you work out your budget and what you want from the map, then speak to other people to find out what software they’re successfully using.

Tune your gearbox, too (TCU remaps)

If you have a DSG-equipped car, then a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) tune is a no brainer. Similar to tuning your car’s ECU, a gearbox map is flashed to the car. The result sees faster gear changes, raised RPM shift points and the option for more aggressive launch control from standstill. Basically, it’s as the car should have left the factory…

Hardware upgrades ready for more power

At this early stage, many tuners such as APR, Forge Motorsport and Racing Line will tell you you’re fine to add a cold air intake, turbo muffler delete and inlet pipe into the mix as this will create good foundations for things to come – some may class this as Stage 1+. You can even add a cat-back exhaust at this stage (from the likes of Milltek or Jetex), as it will improves visuals and sound, but shouldn’t cause issue with emissions or legalities.

Another simple upgrade for GTI owners is to fit the larger IS38 turbocharger from the Golf R, which will bolt straight on. Either way, if you get to this stage then chances are Stage 2 will be on the cards sooner than you may have planned. This tuning game is addictive…

Stage 2 Remap – Up to 115hp (Mk7 GTI) and 150hp (Mk7 R) gain over stock

See, you’re clearly hooked. Stage 2 software will, once again, give you a serious hike in power (especially with the additional hardware fitted, which we’ll come to soon), but there’s one important addition you should remember at this stage. To accompany Stage 2 software, most of the reputable tuners will stipulate you fit a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). These obviously deliver a whole lot more fuel to your engine, but make sure it meets the requirements of your new map. While we’re on the subject of fuel, most Stage 2 maps run on higher octane fuel, so do bear that in mind as well.

Legalities

When it comes to Stage 2 hardware, it’s worth noting that at this stage, many tuning products on the market will be sold for ‘off-road use’ only (think track days and drag racing), due to not necessarily complying with the various laws (emission, noise restrictions, etc) in your area.

Uprated intercooler, downpipe and cat

An uprated intercooler and cast downpipes are both essential Stage 2 hardware additions. The intercooler (often over double the size of the factory unit) will hugely lower air intake temperatures, thus preventing significant power loses, while the downpipe will obviously free up the flow restrictions synonymous with the factory unit. Cast downpipes usually work hand-in-hand with performance ‘high-flow’ catalysts and, combined with the larger diameter piping, allow your turbo to work at its optimum level.

Hybrid turbochargers for VW’s EA888 engine

Those wishing to take things a little further – without going for a ‘big turbo’ or playing with internals – could look at fitting a hybrid turbo at this stage, which will often fit in the stock location without modifications and still be a similar size to the stock unit (just feature larger internals). Garrett’s 2260 PowerMax is a popular upgrade for the Mk7 GTI and R models, which can see power leap way over the 450hp mark (using Stage 2 software, plus the other hardware bolt ons we’ve mentioned). Playing around with ethanol and water injection could see figures reach as high as 480hp+, depending on the fuel you use. At this level, you’re in Stage 2+ territory, we’d say…

Golf GTI/R Stage 3 – 500-600hp+ and beyond (depending on hardware used and size of turbo)

Okay, at this level, chances are you’re not just using your car for the daily commute, but also taking on the regular track day or drag strip event. Stage 3 is basically big school, usually centered around a larger bolt-on turbo, which can sometimes need mounting remotely due to the lack of space between the engine and bulkhead. While these engines are pretty strong, when you start looking at over 500hp, then uprated internals are a must. Obviously, up to this stage, bolting parts on is pretty easy and affordable, even if you’re paying somebody to fit the parts. One thing to factor in at Stage 3 is the extra costs of labor for the machining and general custom work involved if you’re not buying an off-the-shelf kit.

Uprated turbochargers for the EA888 engine

When selecting a turbo, again, a lot comes down to what you want from the engine. It’s worth reading out Turbocharger Guide, to discover exactly how turbos work before deciding on which snail to opt for. Companies like Revo will offer a complete bolt on Stage 3 turbo kit (see turbo above), or firms like Turbozentrum will just sell you just the turbo. If you’re going for a more bespoke application, then HG Motorsport is just one of a number of companies that can supply uprated downpipes for your Stage 3 conversion.

Uprated rods and pistons for the EA888 engine

We could (and probably will) write a whole article devoted to the correct connecting rods, pistons, valves and valve springs to use in a big-power Gen 3 2.0T as there are so many options and opinions out there. Obviously a lot comes down to what power/torque you hope to achieve, how you plan to use the engine and want that power delivered. Oh, and obviously how much money you plan to sink into the engine build.

The guys at Integrated Engineering, who started out producing rods before producing a whole host of bolt on products and software, suggest H-beam rods have great strength to weigh ratio, and they rate them up to the 600hp mark. Anything over that (yes, people often want to go there) then IE suggest their Tuscan I-beam items; designed for engines that make up to 1000hp, these are used in many of their world-record setting cars.

Again, there are a number of firms that manufacture pistons specifically for the 2.0T EA888, so you need to do your homework here as there are too many options for us to recommend just one. Most people will stick with the stock bore size of 82.5mm unless a cylinder bore scores, in which case, use an 83mm piston. Remember, though, that the latter will require machined cylinders, so it can be expensive.

Uprated valves and springs for the VW EA888 engine

Finally, stock valves and valve springs were never designed to deal with the extra pressure levels and power output, so we’d always suggested you upgrade both when you reach Stage 3. There’s no point swapping out the turbo and fitting uprated rods and pistons, only to fall at the final hurdle. Companies like Supertech will be a great place to start when searching. Do it once and do it right…

Tuning Limitations Of The VW EA888

It’s safe to say that the sky really is the limited when tuning the Gen 3 2.0T EA888 motor. So long as you opt for reputable parts and labor, plus you keep on top of the regular serving (using a decent synthetic engine oil) you won’t go far wrong! When it comes to knowing when to stop, well, the only real limitation is your budget and the size of your wallet! Dop Motorsport‘s Lupo drag racer (above) managed to achieve 1800hp, but then it did have a motor in the boot, too…

The future – Gen 4 VW EA888 TSI engine

As for the future, well, before we all go electric, the EA888 Gen 4 (or Evo4) motor, which arrived in the 2022 Mk8 Golf GTI and R models, is said to be the most technically advanced engine ever produced by VW. There was something of a delay in tuner’s gaining access to the engine’s ECU to work on revised software, but thankfully, this finally happened in the latter part of 2022. Naturally, a flurry of tuners soon began to offer software and bolt-ons for the new engine. We’re yet to see how far this motor will go in terms of all-out power, but we have a feeling it won’t be long till we find out. Be sure to read about it here first…

The post How To Tune a VW EA888 Engine appeared first on Fast Car.

Did you know, the Hyundai i30N’s 2.0-litre,16v turbo G4KH Theta engine started life in a Mitsubishi Evo X? And also like Evo’s before, the Hyundai i30N is a great car for tuning, whether that’s in 250bhp or 271bhp trim (N Performance). We spoke to Courtenay Sport on how best to extract power from the Hyundai i30N.

Hyundai i30N engine tuning

First up in our Hyundai i30N tuning guide is an option for those not wanting to get their hands dirty, but look to extract easy gains, and that’s a remap. A stage one map is a simple plug and play affair that boosts power to around 305bhp and 332lb ft. But if that’s not enough for you, then there are hardware upgrades you can make alongside the tune in further increase performance. The stock inlet is superb, featuring big bore pipe work and a cone filter in the stock airbox, so gains in this area are hard won, with an induction kit making more of an aural improvement that any noticeable power increase. To this end, a simple uprated filter for the stock air box is recommended, which allows you to save your money for the exhaust system.

Exhaust and cooling upgrades for the Hyundai i30N

The OEM exhaust is a roarty unit with pop and bangs aplenty, but it is quite restrictive, especially in the flexipipe. As a result, a bigger bore replacement here does reap around 10bhp alone. Combine this with a GPF delete or cat-back exhaust system from the likes of Milltek and you get a nice torque gain low down, plus an even better aural experience.

An uprated tube and fin intercooler from Forge or Wagner will also be worthwhile, as it flows better and has improved cooling properties, allowing more boost to be run. Combine these with a stage two map and you’ll be seeing around 325bhp and 350lb ft. Finally, any more will require a hybrid turbo and uprated fuel pump, but combined with a stage three map, outputs of up to 400bhp and 385lb ft are to be expected, making for a seriously rapid hot hatch.

Hyundai i30N suspension tuning

The stock suspension is a properly sorted set up, with an excellent e-differential and electronic damper control via the steering wheel modes. If you want to retain this functionality, then simple lowering spring kits are available from the likes of Eibach and ST, but the ride does tend to suffer. A better, if pricier, option would be to upgrade to a full coilover system from the likes of KW. Their V3 kit with damper cancellation offers an excellent choice for lowered road driving, with superb handling and ride comfort, but you do lose the ability to adjust the damper settings from the driver’s seat. For those who want a more hardcore option or that want to do a lot of track work, the KW Clubsport kit is what Courtenay Sport  recommends, along with adjustable camber bolts from Powerflex.

Brakes

Unlike many other hot hatches, the i30N doesn’t use a swanky Brembo setup or similar and just makes do with its own braking system, lifted from a heavier model in the range. But far from a poor option, the stock brakes are immense, with excellent feel that gives plenty of confidence and power. Due to this, it’s worth limiting upgrades to a set of uprated brake pads from EBC for the road or some Pagid RS29s for the track, with a set of Tarox S2000 two piece discs a good option simply due to their lighter weight. Teamed up with some Goodridge braided hoses and your brake setup will be stunning!

Interior upgrades

The i30N’s interior is simple and stylish with supportive sports seats, a multifunction steering wheel and a multimedia screen dominating the center of the dash. To be honest, there’s not a lot we’d change, but if you were looking to track your Hyundai, then Recaro do their excellent Pole Position bucket seats with i30N specific mounts. It’s not recommended to fit an aftermarket steering wheel, as you would lose too much functionality, but you could always get the stock wheel customized with wither a flat bottom, some carbon-fiber, or retrimmed to your taste. Or ignore that advice and go full race car vibes, your car your choice!

If you want more performance and not bothered about losing some of the practicality, then your i30N would benefit from losing a few pounds. Thinner bucket seats, removal of the rear seats and some plastic trim will certainly help reduce its overall mass and result in improved acceleration and cornering performance.

Styling upgrades for the Hyundai i30N

When it comes to styling the i30N, kits have come a long way now the car has been around for quite a few years. Where once you were limited to splitters, skirts and diffusers, you can now go with a full on wide arch kits that can cost thousands. Thankfully for us, the i30N hasn’t been short on the motorsport front, so if you speak to the right people, and with deep enough pockets, you could build yourself a road-going Touring Car of rally replica. Or, you could stick to keeping things simple and enjoying the car’s natural look.

Wheel wise, the N comes with 18in wheels from the factory, while the N Performance has 19in, so either size will fit no problem. Just ensure to select a lightweight option if you want to retain the car’s excellent handling, and it’s said that an 18in wheel with a quality 235/40/18 Ultra-High-Performance tyre is the sweet spot for performance and ride, although the 19inchers definitely win in the looks department.

Hyundai i30N tuning conclusion

It may lack the kudos and brand heritage of the likes of Honda’s Civic Type R, VW’s Golf GTI or RenaultSport and Ford’s Focus RS monikers, but the Hyundai i30N relies on much more than its badge and is a better car as a result.

In stock form it’s a belter, but with the potential to add 50% more power into the mix, plus make the already excellent handling and braking more focused and potent and you’ve got a seriously impressive hot hatch for very reasonable money. So if you want to fly fast and under the radar, or you’re just not that bothered about the badge, you can pick up one of the finest hot hatches around for not much money.

Looking to buy one? Be sure to check out our Hyundai i30N buying guide.

Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for information on what event we’ve got coming up next! 

The post Hyundai i30N Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Engine swaps really personify modified cars. Fitting a more powerful motor is a fantastic way to improve the performance of your ride, but which engine swaps are best?

These days we’re spoilt for choice with engine tuning, so we don’t need to go to the hassle of an engine swap. But that doesn’t mean it’s no longer a good idea. It can still be one of the coolest mods to make, and the most cost effective way to massive performance gains. Not to mention the autmatic gratificaion of people when you lift the bonnet at car events…

With enough time, money, and skill, you can fit any engine swap you want. You can have a Bugatti Veyron engine fitted to a BMX if you really wanted to. But for the sane (or slightly less insane) among us, we want the best engine swaps to offer great value for the time, money, and effort we put in.And this is exactly what this feature is about. Read on to discover which the best engine swaps you can make right now.

Best Engine Swaps: Toyota 1/2JZ to anything RWD

The JZ is arguably the best all-round inline six-cylinder engine ever made. So, it’s no surprise JZ conversions make for the best engine swaps.

We’ve seen these swaps made to countless cars over the years – even models that already have fantastic factory-fitted engines such as Nissan Skylines, 3-Series BMWs, Honda S2000s, and Mazda RX7s. The JZ swap really is that good.

The JZ motor is still relatively common and inexpensive considering the massive tuning potential on offer. It’s easy to see why a JZ swap is so tempting, and for many cars there are full fitting kits available too.

Full conversion kits allow you to run a BMW gearbox if you want, making it one of the best engine swaps available for any RWD with an engine bay long enough for an inline six.

Best Engine Swaps: VAG 1.8T in to any FWD or mid-engine RWD

Compact, super cheap, hugely tunable, and with a strong transmission. The 1.8-litre 20V turbo lump found in countless VAG vehicles has became one of the most popular engine swaps in to, well quite frankly, anything.

The most common place you’ll find the 1.8T outside of its factory installation is still in Mk1 (check out this 1.8T Mk1 Golf), Mk2, and Mk3 Golfs, That’s thanks to its relatively ease to upgrade, but we’ve seen 1.8Ts in Renault 5s and Clios, Peugeot 205s, Lotus Elises, MR2s, even a Ford Focus and a Mk3 Escort. There’s no reason why you couldn’t put one in anything you fancy.

While there’s no non-VAG fitting kits out there, there is a lot of info available for 1.8T engine swaps. Plus, they’re still cheap and plentiful, so doing the conversion is far less of a headache than most engine swaps. What are you waiting for?

Best Engine Swaps: GM LS Series V8 Into Anything RWD

The default engine swap for just about anything is the good ol’ LS V8. These swaps are so common some people have started considering them boring. Trust us, no LS-swapped car is boring from behind the wheel.

If you didn’t already know, the LS series is GM’s modern V8. From the factory it made it’s way into everything from pick-up trucks to Corvettes, and was available in sizes ranging from 4.8-litres to 7.0-litres. And they all have one thing in common – massive tuning potential.

500bhp is standard or comes from simple bolt-on upgrades for the performance versions. And the smaller truck versions are incredibly strong and capable of 1000bhp-plus, even on standard internals. It’s no wonder the LS V8 is one of the best engine swaps of all time.

Doing a big V8 engine swap usually has three major issues. Firstly, it’s hard to shoehorn one in to your car. Secondly, they’re usually all hooked up to automatic transmissions. And thirdly, they’re usually bloody heavy, which ruins handling.

But not the LS. It’s no heavier than a Toyota 2JZ or similar. There are plenty of off-the-shelf LS conversion kits for most popular RWD cars. And not only do the LS engines come with super strong manual boxes as standard, there’s also full conversion kits available to allow you to use the common, cheap, but very strong BMW gearboxes. Ideal.

Best Engine Swaps: Honda K20 into Toyota MR2s and Lotus Elises

We don’t need to tell Honda fans how good the K20 engine is, but for the rest of you, listen up. It really is about the best transversely-mounted engine you can get. Capable of over 300bhp when tuned even when naturally aspirated is impressive enough but add some boost with a supercharger or turbo conversion and things get really crazy.

Massive power, massive revs, strong transmissions, and decent reliability too. No wonder it’s considered one of the best engine swaps you can make. The K20 is still popular when swapped into earlier Civics, and more recently has found homes in the Mk6 Ford Fiesta ST. But perhaps one of the best swaps is a K20 fitted to the back of mid-engine sports cars like the Toyota MR2 or Lotus Elise and Exige.

There are full kits and even specialists dedicated to K20 engine swaps in to MR2s and Elises, so if you want a mid-engine RWD supercar-beater, this is the way to go.

Best Engine Swaps: Saab Turbo into Vauxhall

Saab isn’t the first company you think of when it comes to tuning or best engine swaps. But it was one of the pioneers of turbocharging and made some damn good motors. And, because it was part of the GM group from the 1990s-onwards, those engines share a lot of parts with another GM brand, Vauxhall.

That means it’s easy to put the strong and tunable turbocharged Saab engines in to both front- and rear-wheel-drive Vauxhalls. For the front-wheel-drive cars, nearly all of the component parts are interchangeable from Saab to Vauxhall. You can buy a scrap Saab 900 or 9-3 Turbo and more-or-less swap the entire thing over to your FWD Vauxhall. Which is nice.

For rear-wheel-drive engine swaps it’s not quite so simple. The main headache here is finding a suitable gearbox. But would you believe it? The Omega tranny bolts directly to the Saab engine. So, as rear-wheel-drive swaps go, this one’s pretty damn easy too.

Best Engine Swaps: Toyota 1UZ into anything RWD

The 4.0-litre 1UZ V8 typically found in big Lexus models was unheard of for years, but these days it’s one of the best engine swaps money can buy.

Designed as a race engine, it is incredibly over-built for the standard power levels. It’s capable of massive power and high revs with ease.

Since people have noticed the 1UZ’s potential, using it as a donor for engine swaps has become popular. We’ve seen them fitted all manner of RWD cars, in naturally aspirated, turbocharged, and supercharged form.

While they only ever came with an auto ‘box as standard, there are kits for Toyota, BMW, and Nissan manual boxes.

Another big reason the 1UZ is so popular is due to its very lightweight and compact design; it’s barely any heavier than a typical four cylinder. This allows the 1UZ to slide into smaller RWD cars like MX5s and AE86s without negatively affecting the handling – we’ve even recently seen one fitted to a Ford Focus ST170, complete with twin turbos!

Swapping engines from the same manufacturer

Robbing a bigger, more powerful motor from another model from the same manufacturer as your car can make for some of the easiest and best engine swaps available. Here’s a few options of how taking parts from a bigger brother can improve your car.

N54 into any BMW

The N54 is the 3.0-litre twin-turbo motor found in the BMW 335i amongst others. Quite frankly it’s an amazing piece of kit, and makes for some of the best engine swaps going. It’s incredibly strong, incredibly tuneable, and with a pretty indestructible gearbox to match. It’s not too expensive either. But it’s not the easiest engine to swap; complicated electronics mean fitting now into an earlier E36 or even E46 isn’t a straightforward bolt-in job. But the reward on offer matches the difficulty to install, so it’s still one of the best engine swaps you can make.

Z20LET into Vauxhall Corsa engine swap

C20XE and C20LET swaps into Novas and Corsa Bs formed the basis of Fast Car magazine for a large portion of the 1990s and early 2000s. Today the same principals apply to the later Z20LET engine and the Corsa C.

Corsa Cs cost peanuts and weigh less than 1000kg. Z20LETs are similarly cheap, yet are easy to tune. And full fitting kits costs just a few hundred quid. Fitting a Z20LET to a Corsa C is a marriage made in heaven. No wonder this is a hugely popular conversion; it’s one of the cheapest and easiest engine swaps out there.

Puma 1.7 into Mk5 Ford Fiesta Zetec Z engine swap

If you’re looking for a bolt-on engine swap, then look no further. The Ford Fiesta Mk5 shares a platform with the Puma, meaning the Puma’s VVT-equipped 123bhp 1.7-litre Zetec SE engine literally bolts straight in place of the Fiesta’s 100bhp 1.6-litre. It’s so quick and easy Fast Ford magazine even fitted one in less than 24 hours for a mag feature a few years ago.

Breakers even sell complete kits of all the parts you’ll need: engine, gearbox, ECU, wiring loom, ignition key, and spa on, to make it a simple bolt-in conversion. Even the wiring – typically one of the biggest headaches – is a plug-and-play job. Make sure you get the key and transponder ring; the key is coded to the ECU, but it all plugs straight in.

This is one of the best Ford engine swaps you can make and is probably the best engine swap for a beginner. Plus, 23 percent gains for a day’s work isn’t to be sniffed at!

VTEC B-Series, H22A or K-Series engine swaps

There’s a whole heap of non-performance Hondas out there, but it’s easy to swap in a VTEC B-Series, H22A, or K-Series. These engine swaps will fit most 1990s-onwards Hondas, partly due to the interchangeability of parts from the factory and partly thanks to the huge Honda tuning scene.

Swapping big power Honda motors in to base models makes a lot of sense. They’re more common to find for sale than the hot models, and many owners will start with the smaller engine model when younger but want more power once insurance prices drop. The best reason though, is because cars like a K-Series-powered EG Civic don’t exist from the factory. Creating your own is undeniably cool. Plus, it makes for a very fast, lightweight car – even with a standard engine. Add some boost, and you’ll create an animal!

Cosworth YB engine swaps

The legendary Cosworth YB engine has been fitted to almost everything over the years. We’ve seen it in a wide range of modified cars, from classic Minis to Caterhams, BMWs to Transit vans. But its most loyal following is, unsurprisingly, the fast Ford scene. That means the YB has been squeezed into almost every Blue Oval you think of; from classic Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts, Capris, and Cortinas, right through to modern Fiestas and Focuses, and even a Ka! (You can check out that Ford Focus Cosworth photographed above).

Traditionally, the conversion used to involve chopping up a Sierra floorpan and stitching that into whatever body your were building. Then you’d simply bolt on all the Cossie components; either 4×4 or rear-wheel-drive spec. Most Sierras are rotten beyond repair these days, so more modern methods involve fabricating custom mounting points. Typically the YB is used alongside Ford transmissions (MT75 for 4×4, or BorgWarner T5 for RWD) and differentials/driveshafts. But mating the YB to a suitably beefy BMW gearbox and/or stronger Toyota rear diff is becoming increasingly popular.

Either way, when the YB is in the bay, tuning is seemingly limitless. The stock 204bhp is nothing to write home about, but simple bolt-ons will take that closer to 400bhp. Open it up and tinker some more and well over 600bhp is easy to achieve. We’ve seen YBs producing over 1000bhp, and regularly see 700-800bhp road cars.

The only downside is the price. As parts become rarer, and the desirability of original cars goes up, the price for buying, maintaining, and modifying a YB has rocketed in recent years. That said, it’s still one the of best engine swaps you can make, to almost anything.

Nissan RB into 200SX

For huge tuning potential and an insane soundtrack, the Skyline’s RB six-cylinder is a brilliant engine swap for the 200SX. The conversion is almost a direct drop-in; it’s so easy it has been suggested Nissan planned to fit the RB in the first place. There are few things to sort out, but nothing too taxing. Do it, and you’ll add an extra pair of cylinders and extra 500cc, another turbo, and loads of tuning potential!

Zetec Turbo into FWD Fords

Words: Stav & Jamie

The post Best Engine Swaps appeared first on Fast Car.

Doing Things In The Wrong Order 

The first on our list of the worst car tuning mistakes is doing things in the wrong order, which can be divided into two categories: ones that look bad, and ones that will hurt your wallet. Fitting bigger wheels without first lowering the suspension looks ridiculous – often worse than standard. And buying skinny wheels then fitting your wide body kit is both stupid looking and expensive to sort. Engine tuning is where doing stuff in the wrong order can really hurt you though, and this can range from doubling your already expensive labor costs, to buying an expensive part then deciding you want more power than it is capable of. Plan upgrades carefully.

Silly Mistakes When Putting The Car Back Together

You could have made all the best choices possible when tuning your car, but you are still at the mercy of the stupidity of whoever has re-assembled the car, which is where car tuning mistakes can come in. When doing something, especially with the anticipation of trying out your new parts, it’s all too easy for something to go wrong. From huge fuel and oil leaks, to driving down the road without your wheel nuts done up, it’s all easily done and can be pretty terminal, so double and triple check everything once you have finished tuning!

Wrong Brake Pad Compound

Most aftermarket brake pad manufacturers sell various compound pads ranging from fast road to full race use. And just like most car parts, going for the most hardcore choice is rarely the best plan. Heavy cars and hard used track cars can justify full race pads as they need to cope with the heat that would destroy normal fast road pads, but for your average tuned road car is best off with fast road pads as more hardcore pads do next to nothing until they are hot, something that may never happen on the majority of road drives.

Looking for the best? Check out our guide to the best brake pads and rotors. 

Stripping Your Car Too Much

Lightening your car is a great way of increasing performance for very little money. But doing it then remembering you need to take the missus shopping and the kids to school is not a wise move, which is why it’s on our list of car tuning mistakes. Removing the heater/blower setup seems a good idea in the summer, but come winter it’s a living nightmare, and if your car is a daily, the extra noise created by stripping will piss you off in no time. On a weekend warrior or track car, rip out as much as you like, but on a normal road car, don’t go too far or you may regret it. Especially when it comes to reselling, so keep all those stripped off parts somewhere safe!

Looking to make your car lighter? Check out our car weight reduction guide. 

Passing The Weak Point Around

Spending a fortune fixing a weak point on your car usually just sends the problem elsewhere, so be careful. A weak clutch might just be masking a weak gearbox, which could be hiding a weak diff, which could be hiding weak driveshafts, and so on. Do some research, as especially with 4WD cars it can be a slippery and expensive slope…

Trending Car Parts

After asking our Facebook audience about some of the best advice they could give someone who is modifying a car for the first time, it was to avoid buying cheap, rubbish parts as you’ll end up buying twice anyway; which is why it sits firmly in our list of the worst car tuning mistakes to make. Tacky parts are everywhere and many people don’t realize how stupid they look. Most tacky “mods” were cool for a few weeks, but those few weeks were usually a decade or so ago. But somehow these things still sell well. It’s bad enough when fitted to a rubbish car, but some good cars are ruined by Lambo-style doors, chrome spinners, and a skull-headed mermaid airbrushed on the bonnet. If an upgrade doesn’t enhance the performance or the look of a car, it’s probably best avoided.

Huge Wheel Spacers

While never as good a solution as having wheels with the correct offset in the first place, decent quality bolt-on spacers are perfectly safe and acceptable as long as they aren’t too big. But big slip-on spacers, especially on a car that has wheel bolts rather than nuts. Aside from needing longer wheel bolts to keep things safe, it becomes a pain when fitting and removing wheels as it’s bloody hard to line the bolt holes up. When there is no real money to be saved by doing it this way, why do it? So don’t even think about it, okay?

More Power But No Control

You can have all the power in the world, but unless you can use it, it’s pointless, this is where lots of people fall down. 500bhp cars with open diffs and skinny tires that spin the wheels in every gear; cars with big power but such abysmal brakes and suspension they are slow on all but the longest straightest roads – the list goes on and on. As your power increases, you will need better grip, handling, and stopping to match if you want to be truly quick and not catch death. Having more power doesn’t result in being faster all the time, if you can’t use it, then what’s the point other than having a figure to boast about down the pub with your mates.

Race Graphics With a Full Interior

The decision to have graphics on a stripped out racer is all yours. However, one thing that is universally rubbish is a normal road car with a full interior with race graphics. The main culprits are Subaru drivers, often in base model estates, covered in full WRC graphics, but the effect is seen everywhere, from Mondeo BTCC replicas to cars covered in awful ‘drift style’ graphics. Unless your car is a caged-up race monster, don’t make it look like one from the outside.

Matching Your Clothing/Lifestyle With Your Car

If covering your lightly tuned road car with rally graphics wasn’t bad enough, dressing like your car takes it to a whole new level of bad. Subaru and Ford owners seem to be the main culprits, but it crosses the whole tuning spectrum. A whole family decked out in Subaru rally gear, including caps, jackets and umbrella while walking their dog called Scooby Doo is not a good look. As much as we love cars, dressing like one is taking it way too far for us, which is why we’ve included it on our list of the worst car tuning mistakes to make.

Poor Wheel Size And Offset

Nothing makes or breaks a car’s look more than wheels being the wrong size or offset, and it can do a good job of ruining the performance too. Wheels sitting too far in the arches kill the looks, while it’s amazing how a really ordinary car can look fantastic with the wheels fitting just right. Oversize wheels is a trend that has thankfully died out in the UK. Big wheels on a small car not only look pants but increases unsprung weight and slows acceleration. If you are unsure what size to run, look at race versions of your car. Generally small cars run 15s, medium cars run 17s, and larger cars run 18s, you won’t see many GT cars rocking 22s at LeMans… Heck, even F1 cars run 18s!

Need some advice? Check out our alloy wheels guide. If you want some wheel inspiration, be sure to visit our guide to the best aftermarket wheels. 

Being Obsessed With Peak BHP Figures

“Target: 1000bhp” is a common thing you see when people are starting the epic build of their new project car. But most of the time they want these numbers for internet bragging rights, not because it’s any use on the road. It’s all too easy to think you need 1000bhp when you are surrounded by big power cars in magazines and on the internet, but in the real world, how much do you need? On the road you can pretty much be assured that a car with 400bhp per ton will rarely come across anything that can keep up; that’s enough to waste the vast majority of supercars and bikes. To put 1000bhp to the ground in the lower gears needs a slick-shod full race car; so, tell us again, why do you need a 1000bhp road car? Now go and sit in a dark room…

Incorrect Fueling/Ignition/Mapping

We say this all the time, but the main killer of engines is things blowing due to detonation, and that is generally because the fueling or ignition is wrong, either because the parts cannot cope, or it hasn’t been mapped correctly. You can have the strongest parts in the world but if the fueling and ignition isn’t sorted its life will still be short. It’s one of the major car tuning mistakes you can make. Be sure to check out our guides on ECU remapping as well as air/fuel ratio to get a better understanding of why this is so important.

Drunken eBay Purchases

Something that seems a good idea after a white wine spritzer and a twelve pack of Stella is not always a good plan the next day. This doesn’t just apply to bedding your friend’s mother; you can make huge tuning mistakes too. Drunken eBay bidding is your main culprit, from buying seized up and pretty crappy engines to whole cars. When it’s possible to bid more than your yearly wage in one drunken click, bad stuff can happen. It might actually make financial sense to invent and fit a breathalyzer to your phone or computer!

Ignoring The Restriction

Engines are only as powerful as the most restrictive part, but people often forget this. You can have an engine capable of 1000bhp, but if the turbo is rated to 350bhp, all you will have is 350bhp. It’s not just turbos either, you can have an F1-spec bottom end on your car, but if the other parts cannot produce that power you wont get anywhere. It doesn’t matter if you’re Usain Bolt, if you let your slow mate run the last leg of a relay race, all your other hard work will be wasted.

Tuning The Wrong Car

The saying “you can’t polish a turd” is a myth, as you can make anything good with enough work. But it’ll cost a hell of a lot more to get a low-spec of a car performing well, than it would if you started with something with more potential in the first place. There are many sub-£5k cars that you could spend £10k on and have the performance to out-accelerate supercars all day long. But if you decide to base your project on a Ssangyong Musso your life won’t be so easy…

Ruining Aerodynamics

You might think your enormous rear wing or bonnet scoop looks good, or you may think going spoilerless and subtle is the way forward, but both ways could seriously mess up your performance at speed. Massive spoilers and scoops can add huge amounts of aerodynamic drag, noticeably slowing acceleration knocking significant amounts off the top speed. Conversely, most performance cars have rear spoilers and front splitters for good reason, and without them the car can be dangerously unstable.

If you want to know more about aero and how it affects your car, our aerodynamics guide has you covered. 

Big Power But Open Differential

This has been touched upon elsewhere, but is so important it’s worth mentioning in its own right. The myth of FWD being useless with any more than about 200bhp comes from many running open diff’s and so on, as big power cars generally are pretty useless without them. It’s not just restricted to front drivers either; tuned RWD and 4WD cars suffer just as badly. Trust us here, the difference is huge. Massive. BIG!

Over The Top Components

This is the exact opposite of people ignoring a huge restriction, but even more common and can ruins a car even more significantly. A restriction just means the car is less powerful than it should be; it would still drive nicely. But when you fit OTT parts like wild cams and huge turbos it can make the car drive like poo. Crazy cams and giant turbos might get you high peak power figures, but a poor powerband will make the car slower overall, so be careful…

Poor Power Band

Again, this is something that has been touched upon already, but it’s so important it deserves its own section. Getting power is easy – even a trained monkey could bolt on the biggest and strongest parts and double or even triple its power. But if it drives like crap with no power till high rpms it will actually be slower than it would be with less power but more drivability. It takes real tuning knowledge to make a car powerful AND drivable, but the effort is more than worth it; even at well over 200bhp per liter a car can be very drivable, if tuned correctly.

Getting Too Trigger Happy With The Boost/Nitrous…

Power is addictive, and when huge amounts of extra power is merely the push of a button away, it’s incredibly tempting. But unless the car is set up to handle the extra boost or nitrous, this will end in expensive engine rebuilding tears before too long. Contrary to popular myth, it’s very rarely the extra boost or the extra power that kills engines; it’s the fact the fueling and ignition hasn’t been modified to match, ending in head gasket blowing and piston melting.

Lots Of Tailpipes

If an exhaust is a single pipe to the back, it only needs a single tailpipe, simple as that. But sometimes even standard cars split to two, or even four tailpipes at the back for visual reasons. Whether you like that look or not is up to you, but adding lots of tailpipes to totally inappropriate cars is a great way of making perfectly good car look cack. There’s not a set rule to this, but overall, if your tailpipe is more than an inch bigger than your exhaust diameter, or you have more tailpipes than exhaust pipes under the car, then you need to take a step back and have a word with yourself. Tailpipes are like limbs: if you have more than four people will look at you funny.

Silly Tuning Gimmicks

Trust is a terrible thing. It makes you believe people when they tell you a piece of junk will make your car faster when it does precisely nothing. Preying on the trust and lack of knowledge of people is bad, but it happens unfortunately, which is why we’ve included it on our list of the worst car tuning mistakes to make. Electric superchargers, fuel magnetizers, and super spark plugs, and so much more, they are everywhere, and (most) do nothing but make your wallet lighter.

Incorrect Suspension Geometry

Your fully adjustable arms, big money coilovers, and road legal slicks won’t do a thing for your grip and handling if the geometry is all over the place. A few degrees either way can turn a car from an ill-handling pile of dogger to a front running car, not to mention help tire wear, so it’s well worth shelling out for a pro to do your geometry. Go on then, what are you waiting for?

Incorrect Tire Pressures

Tire pressures really do make a huge difference to handling. On the road the difference is big, but on track people really take things to the extreme. Some run less than half the pressure most road cars run, often due to the huge pressure increases that happens naturally as the tire heats up while on track. If you’re serious about your performance, do some testing to see what settings you prefer.

Over The Top Transmission And Clutch

Fitting a drag racing sequential air-shifted gearbox to your car may seem a great idea at the time, but having no downshift capability and only able to shift at full throttle isn’t ideal for the daily commute. Even on a less extreme level, don’t let the number of tuned cars you see in magazines and on the internet with dog ’boxes and triple plate clutches make you think they are nice to drive on the road, but they are complete bastards! They are fine on the open road and track, but in stop start slow traffic you will want to get out and walk within ten minutes.

Cheap Carbon Fiber Parts

Rounding of our list of the top 27 worst car tuning mistakes to make, we have the use of cheap, not-so-carbon-fiber parts. Yeah yeah, we know, carbon is super-light and amazing. Well, it’s not that light when backed with fiberglass for extra strength like a lot of cheap carbon is. In fact it may be just as heavy as the metal original! Some cars have lightweight alloy bonnets and boots as standard too, so think twice before you decide to replace them trying to save weight.

The post The Worst Car Tuning Mistakes You Can Make appeared first on Fast Car.

For those looking to harness some more performance from their engine, superchargers can be a hugely beneficial tool. Whether bolted onto a big capacity V8 motor, or assisting a small 2.0-liter engine, the benefits to both can result in hundreds of extra horsepower. But how do they work? What do you need to know before buying one? And what else should you upgrade before buying one to avoid taking your engine to an early grave? Read on to find out.

What is a supercharger and what does it do?

To improve the performance of an engine, it needs more air and fuel. A supercharger is an air compressor that supplies this extra air at more than atmospheric pressure. A supercharger needs power to work. Normally, the term supercharger describes a unit that is mechanically driven from the crank. However, if a turbine provides power, the supercharger is known as a turbocharger.

10 best affordable supercharged cars

Are all superchargers the same?

There are two main types of superchargers: Centrifugal and Positive Displacement. Centrifugal superchargers deliver increased pressure with increased engine speed. They work by accelerating the inlet air by giving it a very high speed from a compressor wheel known as an impeller. This speed energy converts to pressure when the air slows down in the diffusor inside the compressor housing. Positive Displacement blowers deliver a certain amount of air per-engine revolution, independent of speed.

There are three major types of Positive Displacement supercharger; Roots, Twin-Screw and Scroll – also known as G-Lader.

What are superchargers made of?

The Centrifugal Supercharger typically has an internal ratio step-up gear that gives the impeller a much higher speed than the input drive. In general, the efficiency of the compression increases with higher impeller speeds. Step-up gearboxes based on gear sprockets or belts have limitations in speed and hence efficiency. Whereas traction drives, such as the Rotrex, can reach extreme speeds far above gear and belt-based boxes. Positive Displacement superchargers typically have two internal counter rotating rotors. The synchronization between them makes relies on a very small clearance, which makes them sensitive to debris and heat expansion.

Why is a supercharger a good route to gain power?

There are several ways to improve engine power. In short, it’s all about moving greater volumes of air in and out of the engine.

The most obvious way is to increase engine capacity, but with focus on emissions and engine size, this is not beneficial.

Increasing engine speed also dictates expensive and complicated cam timing to avoid unwanted emissions. Colder intake air and higher volumetric efficiency increase power but with limited effect. Boosting, therefore, is the best way to improve power when emissions and power are key. No other alternative gives so much power for the money. When boosting is used, the performance limit is based on the engine internals with more than 100% gains often seen when the engine is properly prepared.

What is the difference between a supercharger and a turbo?

The main difference between a supercharger and a turbo is that a supercharger is mechanical driven. A turbocharger is driven by the exhaust energy. This could indicate that the turbo operates for free, whereas the supercharger steals energy from the crank. However, this is not the full story.

The main part of the exhaust energy is the high pressure in the exhaust ports that creates a pressure difference over the turbine wheel of the turbocharger. The backpressure in the downpipe dramatically reduces the Mean Effective Pressure on the pistons. This, combined with the limitation in efficiency of the turbine, reduces torque.

The reduction is in the same order as the power needed to drive the mechanical supercharger. Also, because the turbocharger traps hot residual exhaust gas in the combustion chamber, the temperature of the fresh air fuel mix increases. Therefore, the mixture in the turbo engine must be richer and the ignition timing lower. Both reduce fuel economy and performance. Several comparisons between turbochargers and efficient superchargers show almost identical performance and consumption results. With regards to emissions, the supercharger has advantages due to freedom in design of the exhaust system and less heat inertia.

How important is it to get the right type of supercharger for your application?

Getting the right type and size of supercharger is very important as each has different attributes. If you require constant and high-end torque, the centrifugal type is ideal. It features a very smooth power increase and low stress on the transmission. Alternatively, in a heavy car with a small engine, you need more torque at low engine rpm. As a result, a Positive Displacement is the preferred choice.

Efficiency during compression of the air is also very important because more power can go to the crank. Plus, you can get away with a smaller intercooler if the efficiency is high. Low temperature of the inlet air is also important for engine reliability and performance. In general, the centrifugal supercharger has better efficiency than all other types of pump.

What are the main limitations or downsides of superchargers?

The physical size of the blower and additional items such as intercoolers and pipework are always an issue. This is because installation into increasingly cramped engine compartments makes fitment more difficult. Also, noise from the air compression is very dominant in a Positive Displacement supercharger. However, the Centrifugal blower is quiet, with Rotrex being the only unit that is essentially silent even at idle.

What other mods should you consider when installing a supercharger?

If the boost pressure from the installed kit exceeds 5 psi, you’ll need an intercooler to reduce inlet air temperature.

Depending on the power gain, the you should modify the exhaust system to reduce backpressure. Normally, the standard cams are fine for lower boost, but you can also source performance cams if you’re chasing more power.

As with any power upgrades, careful remapping and precise ignition and fueling is a must for a successful installation. Finally, depending on power increase, strengthened engine internals may also be needed and compression lowered according to needs.

Why don’t more car manufacturers use supercharger technology?

It’s no secret that the turbo is the dominant boosting device between car manufacturers. The turbocharger manufacturers can support the OEM with implementation and low prices.

The very positive feedback from aftermarket supercharged cars can improve the supercharger market share. When car manufacturers realize it’s possible to get high efficiency, low noise at a good price, more cars will be supplied with superchargers. New stricter emissions rules will also push in that direction because the catalyst will have a shorter heat-up time. Hybrid solutions with 48V power supply will add torque at low engine rpm and open for a solution with an efficient centrifugal compressor like the Rotrex. The high-volume car industry is very conservative towards new technology because of the economic risk, so the implementation will take time.

Other than ensuring you get the right one for your application, what are the most important things to look out for when buying a supercharger?

When buying a supercharger, it’s very important that reliability and factory back-up is good. If the supercharger is sold to the OE market the quality, reliability and back-up is seriously controlled by the manufacturer and you can be sure that this will not cause problems.

Many supercharger manufacturers sell their products to the motorsport market. This market takes the units to the extreme and if the chargers can handle this treatment, they are probably good enough for the road.

The supercharger is the most expensive part of the kit so the unit price will heavily influence the kit price. If the installation kit is simple, however, because the supercharger is easy to install, a higher unit price is acceptable.

Did you know that we host a number of high performance car events across the year at some of the best circuits and venues in the UK? 

The post Superchargers Guide: How They Work & Which To Buy appeared first on Fast Car.

It’s safe to say that in the car tuning scene a lot of engines are more famous than the cars. In fact, some cars are only famous thanks to their engines. But the reason for this is simple, the engines have huge tuning potential. In all honesty, most of the engines aren’t amazing performers when standard. But it’s the highly tuned ones that bring the fame. This 10 best Japanese engines to tune feature is all about these motors, and how to realize their potential…

Nissan RB Series Engines

You knew this one would appear on our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune, didn’t you? The engine that gave the Nissan Skyline worldwide fame, the RB is a turbo straight six, fitted to R32, R33 and R34 Skylines, as well as a few more unusual vehicles. The three main turbo versions, the RB20DET, the RB25DET, and the RB26DETT have long been known as tuners dreams.

The RB20 is the smallest capacity and lowest power engine of the bunch. It features just two-liters and only 210bhp. But that doesn’t mean it’s the poor relation – far from it. Put a decent size turbo on it and things really come alive. 450bhp and 8,000rpm is possible on standard internals. On the flip side, a fully built engine could achieve 600bhp-plus. And they love to rev too; a big power RB20 revving its nuts off is an incredible sounding engine.

The RB25 is the most common of the RB lumps. It’s found in countless R33 GTSTs and R34 GTTs. As it’s a 2.5-litre turbo that makes an easy 300bhp with really minor tweaks, it’s incredibly popular. It’ll even make a pretty safe 500bhp with a big turbo conversion on standard internals. Although some say the RB25 engine is almost as capable as the RB26 when fully built for mega power, most people tend to stick around the 500bhp mark. This level is achievable relatively cheaply. If done right it has tons of torque and a great powerband.

RB26DETT engine

The RB26DETT is the daddy of the RB engines. It’s the engine found only in R32-R34 GT-Rs. From the offset it was designed to win races. As the engine was designed for Group A Touring Car racing in the late ’80s, most of the standard parts, especially the head, crank, rods, manifolds and intercooler had to be awesome. This was because the race rules meant they weren’t allowed to be changed.

Because of this, these parts are rarely changed below about 650bhp. In fact, some people have even hit the magic 1,000bhp figure on engines running standard internals. While half the world likes to claim their mate has a 1,000bhp Skyline, in reality, that’s an expensive number to hit. But if you can afford it, that’s nowhere near the limit. What is the limit? Who knows.

Check out out guide on how to tune the Nissan RB26DETT engine.

RB30ET

Unusually though, there is another turbo RB, the RB30ET. This was an Aussie-only single cam turbo engine not even found in a Nissan, but in a Holden four-door saloon. Despite having 12 fewer valves and one fewer cam than the other versions, and pushing out less power than even the RB20DET as standard, with a bit of tuning it was soon realized even 1,000bhp was possible. That power also came with massive torque thanks to having the three-liter engine.

The current favored trick in RB tuning is using the RB26 cylinder head with the RB30 block, along with a huge turbo. This gives the huge power RB26s are capable of, but with big RB30 torque. Best of all, for this the RB30 block doesn’t need to come from a turbo version. Non-turbo RB30s can be found in all kinds of places, even old Nissan Patrol 4x4s in your local free ads.

Toyota 1JZ & 2JZ GTE

While the Skyline RB engine was the first turbo straight-six to attract worldwide tuning fame, it’s certainly the Toyota JZ engine that’s the current favorite of tuning fans the world over. While neither turbocharged versions of the JZ are exactly slow from the factory, it’s once you relegate the standard tiny twin turbos to the dustbin and whack on a big single turbo that things really come alive. This is why it features on our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

2JZ-GTE

The three-liter 2JZ-GTE has gained a lot of its legendary tuning status due to the well-known fact it can produce upwards of 1000bhp on completely standard engine internals. But it gets better than that. Even at the 750bhp mark, a standard 2JZ in good condition with a well specced turbo set-up, will spool up fast and give massive torque. Most importantly though, it will be reliable too.

As full-on race engines, 1,000bhp is only the halfway point for a 2JZ.  Upwards of 2,000bhp is deemed capable, and even with far less than 2,000bhp, the results can be incredible. A 2JZ Supra has hit 246mph in the standing mile, over 40mph faster than a Bugatti Veyron over the same distance.

1JZ-GTE

While people going for maximum power regardless of budget always go for the 2J, it’s the 1JZ that people go for when looking for the maximum bang for their buck. Hugely reliable even under extreme abuse, they’re able to make 500bhp-plus and similar torque on standard engine internals with ease. It’s no wonder the 1JZ is a drifters’ favorite. One reason they’re so popular is they’re cheaper and more common than you may think. They’re the engine found in most of the thousands of Toyota Soarers that were imported to the UK. They are now usually found looking pretty unloved on places like eBay and Gumtree. Although recent popularity soars into older Japanese cars has seen the availability decrease.

2JZGE

While the turbo versions are the most popular, don’t ignore the 2JZGE, the non-turbo three-liter lump. Totally unloved in the UK, almost worthless in fact, they hold a secret. One that makes them a lot more popular elsewhere in the world. It’s the fact they are insanely strong. When we say strong, we mean it. The internals are almost the same as the turbo version, and once the thicker turbo-spec head gasket has been fitted, many happily run upwards of 600bhp on turbo converted standard GE engines.

1.5J

Finally, another option is the 1.5J engine. This is a mish-mash of 1JZ head, and 2JZGE bottom end. The reason this is done is usually because somebody’s 1JZ bottom end has failed. Rather than repair it, they simply fitting a standard 2JZGE bottom end .This is cheaper, half a liter bigger capacity and just as strong. As a result, it makes a lot of sense. Contrary to popular myth, a 2JZ head flows better than a 1J, so for insane power, a 2J is still the ultimate. But if you ever blow your 1JZ bottom end up, well we know what we would do.

Fancy a Mk4 Supra? Check out our Supra buyer’s guide for tips!

Spoon Integra Type R DC2

Honda B Series

While Honda fans worship them, most people don’t understand why the little B Series is considered so special. Well let us tell you. They feature an incredible design for a production engine, both as standard, and especially when tuned.

This is the engine that introduced the world to VTEC. The first B16A pushed out 158bhp from just 1595cc without a turbo or supercharger in sight, and revving to 8,200rpm. It’s pretty amazing numbers for a standard engine even today and this was back in 1989!

As the years went on the little 1.6 got more powerful and the Type R version made a huge 185bhp and revved to 9,000rpm, all while being still just 1,595cc! The B18C is a 1.8-litre version. While not hugely more powerful as standard, ranging from 170bhp to 200bhp, the extra capacity gives a useful increase in torque, magnified once you get tuning.

So while the VTEC B Series lumps are works of art, that’s not what this feature is about. The fact they can create ridiculous amounts of power is why they’re here!

The amount of tuning parts and knowledge available on the B Series is unbelievable. While power increases are possible with N/A tuning, the fact they’re so highly tuned from the factory means when you turbocharge them they really come alive.

Upwards of 500bhp has been achieved with just bolt-on turbo kits with B18s. And as countless cars in the USA have proven, fully built engines can push out insane numbers. The fact there’s B Series front-wheel drive Civics in the USA running 8 and even 7-second quarter-miles at well over 180mph says it all!

1900hp Nissan GT-R R35

Nissan VR38DETT 

It usually takes a long time for an engine to get tuned to big power. But despite people saying it would never be as tunable as the RB26 (in GT-Rs), the VR38DETT – the 3.8-litre twin turbo V6 from the Nissan GT-R – was being tuned to four-digit power figures within a year of release, cementing its place on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune.

The VR38 is a tuner’s dream. Starting at upwards of 500bhp as standard, over 600bhp is possible on the standard turbos, 750bhp is considered safe on standard internals. And the maximum power possible? Well, upwards of 2000bhp is achievable… And just in case 3.8 liters isn’t enough for you, there are stroker kits available that can take the engine right up to 4.6 liters!

While they’re fitted as standard in the Nissan GT-R, we’ve seen them fitted to Nissan Silvias and Skylines, along with conventional manual gearboxes. It has to be up there as the ultimate engine swap. So, what are you waiting for!?

Be sure to check out our Nissan GT-R R35 tuning guide for advice.

Nissan Silvia S14a

Nissan SR20DET

The SR20DET is one of the most commonly tuned 2-litre turbo engines worldwide, with gazillions of parts available. But why is it so popular and tunable?

While it’s not groundbreaking, what it does, it does well, giving great bang for the buck. With just over 200bhp as standard, the engines aren’t anything to write home about from the factory. But even really mild tuning takes the power to around 270bhp, which totally transforms a car. And if tuned properly, 400bhp is safe on good condition standard internals.

While it’s not as common to see big power SR20s as it is some other 2ltr lumps, fully built engines fitted with the ultra high flowing VVL cylinder head from JDM-only SR16VE and SR20VE engines have pushed these engines to well over 700bhp. Some over 1,000bhp…

700bhp Mazda RX-7 FD with TCP-Magic bodykit

Mazda RX-7 Rotary

While the Mazda Rotary engine is very unusual and needs specialist experience to tune it with success, one of these engines tuned correctly is almost unbeatable, which is why it’s here on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune. They’re banned from the Le Mans 24hr because no piston engine could keep up!

Their relative tiny size means they can pack a hell of a punch in a small space, with even a quad rotor engine being no longer than a typical straight six, despite giving the kind of grunt you’d expect from a big V8.

Not only are they powerful for their small size, their design means they rev fast and hard. The free spinning feeling is like a superbike engine rather than a typical piston lump. While over 150bhp per rotor is possible naturally aspirated, which is a huge amount, once you add a turbo, it’s easily 350bhp per rotor, and more like 500bhp per rotor in full-on drag race engines.

Almost no engine lends itself to turbocharging as well as the Rotary. Their design gives very strong, and hot, exhaust pulses, so they can spool big turbos easily. A typical twin-rotor RX-7 engine can spool turbos as easy as a big 3ltr piston lump and three and four rotor engines put V8s to shame in the turbo spooling department.

Best of all, due to the modular nature of the rotary engine, if you have the money and skills, creating a bigger rotary engine just involves bolting more rotors on. This is, after all, how most quad rotors are made, we even featured a six-rotor RX-3 in FC a little while back…

1UZ-powered Toyota Celica Mk1

Toyota 1UZ

While some road car engines are turned in to race engines, the Toyota 1UZ V8, usually found plodding away in various 1990s Lexus vehicles, was designed as a race engine, and then converted to road use.

Toyota spent around $30 million in the late ’80s developing the 1UZ with the intention of using it as a race engine for Le Mans and Japanese GT racing. However, the rules of the classes they planned to run it in were changed, making the engine surplus to requirements. So it was heavily de-tuned and fitted to various low revving luxury cars instead.

The story might sound hard to believe, but once you start to take the engine apart it all makes sense. As well as being incredibly light for a V8 – less than many 2ltr engines in fact – it really does look like a race engine when you see the design of it and can happily rev to 8,000rpm on standard internals. Incredible for a production V8 lump, which is why it features in our 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

With the restrictive intake and exhaust set-up swapped for individual throttle bodies and tubular manifolds, and four lumpy cams fitted, over 400bhp naturally aspirated on the standard bottom end has been achieved. Even in endurance race spec, designed to last 24 hours flat out, they can produce well over 500bhp without a turbo in sight – and rev to over 10,000rpm too. Not too shabby.

Just like any engine, they really come alive with the addition of boost and 600bhp plus on standard internals is considered quite safe. People have run over double that on fully built engines for high miles with no problems at all.

Twin-charged Evo

Mitsubishi 4G63

Found in the first nine generations of the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution (the Evo X has a 4B11T engine), the 2-litre turbo 4G63 lump is considered one of the most tunable four-cylinder engines ever made. It’s deserved of its place on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune.

Designed from the outset with rallying in mind, the engine is hugely strong. It’s easily tunable using standard components to conform with Group N and Group A rally rules. This requires many standard parts, including intercooler, manifolds, general turbo size, and a lot of engine internals.

Because of this, all 4G63s came with a massive front mount intercooler from the factory and an impressively big turbo – later versions came with a ultra-trick twin scroll turbo set-up with twin wastegates, some capable of well over 400bhp.

While the standard turbo takes you a long way, there’s almost endless big turbo kits, stroker kits, dry sump conversions, even twincharger kits available, meaning you can run a supercharger and a turbo. Check out the twincharged Evo in the photo above!

Where’s the limit? Well, more power is able to be made than could realistically be put to the tarmac. But 2,000bhp has been claimed by certain methanol fueled monster 4G63s…

Bagged Subaru Impreza P1

Subaru EJ Series

The Subaru EJ series turbo engines, with their unusual flat (or boxer) four cylinder layout and distinctive exhaust note, have been hugely popular in the tuning scene for around 20 years now – and they seem to be getting more powerful all the time. It almost had to feature in our list of the 10 best Japanese engines to tune.

The flat four engine can make access to certain parts of the engine a pain at times. But the huge success of the EJ in all forms of motorsport proves its worth when tuning. With capacities from 2-litre to 2.5-litre as standard, and stroker kits allowing as much as 2.7-litre, it’s a big engine for just four cylinders. But regardless of your capacity (most of the biggest power ones are around 2.2-litre), big power is certainly possible.

While changing the exhaust manifold to fit big turbos is a difficult and expensive task on these engines, thankfully a huge range of Impreza specialists produce direct replacement hybrid turbos, some capable of upwards of 500bhp. A lot of power in anyone’s books, and a level some people have pushed standard internals too!

For a fully built engine, upwards of 800bhp has proven reliable even with hard track use, and we’ve seen claims of over 1,400bhp from EJ-powered drag monsters. There’s no doubt the Impreza lump is up there with the four cylinder greats… Looking to tune your EJ20? We’ve put together a GC8 tuning guide just for you…

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Track Car

Honda K20

The high-revving, happy-go-lucky nature of the K20, alongside its likeness for forced induction is why it had to feature on our list of the best Japanese engines to tune. Though there’s much debate in Honda circles about it, overall, the 2-litre K20 (as found in the EP3 and FN2 Civic Type Rs and the DC5 Integra Type R), is considered the best production engine Honda have made. The newer 300bhp-plus turbo FK2 and FK8 Type R comes with a K20 based engine. Again, it’s tuneable.

Surprisingly for an engine that leaves the factory in such a high state of tune, even in naturally aspirated form there’s a lot more power to be had. With the 2.4-litre K24 bottom-end bolted on, and 2.6-litre stroker kits available too, well over 300bhp, even with great torque and road manors, is perfectly possible. And this is without resorting to a turbo or supercharger.

While the standard internals are not weak, and people have still managed 500bhp-plus from stock K20s with turbo conversions, the conrods are the weak point. So for big power turbo motors, you need to delve into the internals and fit forged pistons and steel rods.

Once fully built with uprated internals, the K20 is an incredible piece of kit whether naturally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged. The clever VTEC head means drivability is fantastic compared to most other engines of the same capacity and state of tune.

The post Best Japanese Engines To Tune appeared first on Fast Car.

You may have heard that a better flowing cylinder head will improve an engine’s power potential. And you may have heard of the terms porting, gas-flowing and a big-valve head, but do you know what they actually mean, how they work and why they give the power gains they do? To answer these questions, we take a closer look at the world of cylinder head porting, breaking down different terms, and explain why cylinder head porting is crucial for gaining extra performance in a reliable manner. But, let’s start with explaining what a cylinder head is and what is does.

What does a cylinder head do?

The cylinder head is what allows the engine to breathe. It allows air/fuel mixture into the engine through one set of valves, then seals the cylinder when the valves close. This is so the mixture can combust and produce power, before expelling unwanted exhaust gases through another set of valves. As a result, it’s a crucial aspect of how an internal combustion engine works on a car.

Specialists and tuners often refer to the cylinder head as ‘the lungs of the engine’. Air is drawn in, used to create energy and then expelled out again. And sticking with our anatomical analogy, the best way to think of a standard head is as the lungs from someone who has been smoking for 50 years. The airways are restrictive and could be a whole lot better. If, however, the cylinder head ports were increased its size, the head acts more like the lungs from a long-distance runner. They are much more efficient and less restrictive to performance.

Another way to look at it is to think of the bottom end of the engine as a big pump. The cylinder head is what allows air in and out of that pump. Obviously, the more usable air/fuel you can get in, and the more exhaust gases you can get out, the more power that pump will produce.

Bigger is better?

However, sadly it’s not just a simple case of bigger is better. The head modifications need to work with the rest of the engine spec. There’s no point having a massively ported head if the rest of the engine (including induction, fueling and exhaust systems) is more restrictive than the ports in the head. However, if the engine has got a host of other goodies like lairy cams, bigger injectors, and so on, the standard ports in the head can quickly become the most restrictive part of the entire gas flow in and out of the engine.  Therefore, it responds really well to porting and machine work.

Most standard ports are quite restrictive to airflow

What are cylinder head ports?

The cylinder head ports are the passages that the fuel and air mixture travel along to enter the cylinder bores and the exhaust gases use to escape from the engine. The majority of standard heads have lots of excess material in the ports. This is due to the costs involved with fine tuning each individual head after the casting process. Major improvements can be made to the head here. When you place the inlet or exhaust manifold gaskets on a factory head, for example, you will see that there is usually a good 1-2mm of material before the ports and the manifolds line up. This material can be removed to enlarge the port to offer less restriction to the flow of gases.

But it’s not a simple case of making everything bigger. A good flowing head will have the ports as straight as possible, too. This is so the gases flow as directly as they can. As a result, this means that on some heads most or even all of the material needs to be removed from one particular area to straighten up the flow path as much as possible. The smoother and more direct the port flow from the manifold to the valve, the lower the restriction to gas flow.

Machining guides

In addition, some cylinder heads have valve guides that protrude into the throat area of the port, causing further disruption to the airflow. This is one key area that cylinder head specialists concentrate on; either ‘bullet-nosing’ the guides, or machining them back flush with the rest of the port. This can make a huge difference to the airflow and performance potential.

Larger ports will flow more gases than standard ports. But, it is as much about the shape and the flow of the port as it is about the physical size.

Modern day cylinder head porting

Traditionally, cylinder head porting has been done by hand, and is something of an art-form. It’s not something we’d recommend you have a go at yourself in your shed.

But modern-day technology does mean that specialists can use computers to help them out a bit. The first port and first set of inlet and exhaust valves are still ported manually. But rather than worrying about multiple ports to deal with, they concentrate all their efforts on just one. This process can take several weeks; porting, testing, flowing, porting again, and so on until they are happy. Once happy, the port can then be digitally scanned before the programme is loaded into a state-of-the-art CNC machine. The incredible accuracy of the CNC machine ensures that all ports are exactly the same shape and design. Therefore, they will flow exactly the same amount of air.

Combustion chamber

The combustion chamber is where the fuel and air mixture is ignited via the spark plug to cause combustion, and therefore energy. The more complete the combustion, in terms of burning all the available fuel and air mixture, the more efficient the engine will be. In turn, the more power it will produce.

Smoothing the combustion chamber can help prevent coke build-up.

The head doesn’t have an effect on how complete the combustion will be. Complex issues with the ignition and fuel timing through the ECU control that. However, the combustion chamber itself can be smoothed and polished to make it less susceptible to coke build-up. And that coke build-up can cause hot spots within the combustion chamber. This in-turn can have an effect on how the fuel and air mixture combusts.

That’s why many specialists smooth out the surface of the combustion chamber at the same time as porting the cylinder head.

Some performance valves feature a very narrow throat to pose as little restriction as possible.

Cylinder head valves

The inlet and exhaust valves open to let fuel and air in, shut to create a seal in the cylinder, then open to let exhaust gases out.

Fitting bigger valves means the openings through which the air and fuel mixture enters, and exhaust gases exit, the cylinder are bigger. The bigger the opening the more gas can flow through. Simple as that, then?

Not quite. It’s not all about the size. Bigger valves have a lower gas speed entering the cylinder, which can cause problems with performance. Instead, specialists will work out how much air flow is needed to create the desired power levels. Then, they to achieve this flow rate with as small a valve as possible. This in-turn helps to keep the gas speed as high as possible.

Typical ‘big valves’ in most applications are between 1-2mm larger diameter than standard. This is the usual limit a valve seat in an alloy head will allow. With cast iron heads like the older Pinto engines, the valve seat is machined as part of the head so you can fit much larger valves without too many problems.

What are the different types of valves on the cylinder head?

There are two types of valve; one and two-piece. Most OE valves are of a two-piece design where the head and stem are made from separate materials then fused together to become one. The easiest way to tell if a valve is a two-piece item is to put a magnet to it; two-piece valves have a magnetic stem and a non-magnetic head. One-piece valves are usually made of a high-grade stainless steel such as 214N.

On turbocharged engines, which can experience higher cylinder temperatures, the valves may be sodium-filled to help with heat dissipation.

The shape and design of the valve also has a huge effect on the way the head flows air/fuel mixture and exhaust gases. Some high-performance engines respond well to what are affectionately known as ‘penny-on-a-stick’ valves, so called because of how they look. They have a narrower throat to the valve, and the valve itself is flatter and thinner than standard. The area gained by removing material from the valve allows the gases to flow quicker and easier past the valve. However, it depends largely on the design of the port as to whether these valves will work or not.

Bronze valve guides can cope with the increased heat of a performance engine better than factory-spec steel items.

Valve guides

The valve guides support the valve within the head. Most modern alloy heads have separate valve guides. However, with the older engines, such as the Pinto and the Crossflow, the valve guides are actually part of the casting.

With alloy heads the valve guide is a separate piece because the head is too soft to withstand the opening and closing motion of the valve. This means they would wear out rapidly. A steel guide insert is usually fitted.

With some performance engines such as the Cosworth YB, and many later engines, bronze valve guides are standard. Bronze helps with heat dissipation. The valves, especially exhaust valves, get very hot and can expand, and the effect is even worse in turbocharged engines. The clearance between the valves and the guides is incredibly tight, typically between 1.5 and 2thou. There isn’t much room for the valves to expand before they touch the guides. Bronze guides can deal with the heat better and help reduce the problem. They also wear much better than cast iron guides, and will last longer.

Valve springs

The valve springs’ job is to shut the valves after the camshaft has opened them, and keep them shut until the camshaft opens them again. In theory it is straightforward but there is a bit of science involved when choosing the springs to match the camshaft.

On a camshaft with high lift, the opening and closing ramps on the lobes are usually quite steep and aggressive. As you can imagine, when the engine’s revving at 7000rpm the force at which the valve hits the seat as it closes is quite hard; it is likely to want to bounce back off the seat a little. This is where you need uprated valve springs matched to the camshaft, as they will keep the valve shut and eliminate this problem.

Also the valve springs have to be matched for height to avoid becoming coil-bound at full valve lift. A higher-lift cam will compress the spring more than a normal lift cam, so the valve spring will need to accommodate this. A valve spring should always have 40thou clearance between the coils when at full lift.

Double valve springs

Double valve springs are also available for high-performance engines and work in the same way as single springs. The main benefit of double springs is they offer more strength to keep the valve closed. It is not always possible to achieve this strength with a single spring. The second, inner spring, is always shorter than the outer spring. This means the valve is easier to open because there is less resistance at first. However, when it closes it has the force of both springs pressing against it. This also helps keep the valve shut in engines with particularly aggressive camshaft designs.

Manufacturers or tuners cut valve seats using specialist tooling.

Valve seats

The valve seat is what creates the seal when the valves close. Without an airtight seal the engine would have no compression and would therefore not run.

The part of the seat that creates the seal is the 45-degree angle that matches the 45-degree angle on the valve, and the thickness of this angle can affect a head’s performance. Narrower valve seats are less obstructive to the airflow, therefore a head with narrower seats is capable of producing more power.

The valve seat on the exhaust side helps dissipate heat from the exhaust valves. The exhaust valve seat needs to be significantly larger than the inlet seat because when the valve is shut, the contact between the two helps take heat away from the hot exhaust valve. If the contact area’s too small the exhaust valves would get too hot.

Valve seat cuts

A lot of cylinder head porting specialists like to cut three angles in to the valve seats. This opens up the seat to encourage the air/fuel mix and exhaust gases to flow around the valve rather than straight in at a 45-degree angle and potentially cause turbulence. Usually the first angle is cut at 60-degrees. The second angle is the sealing section at 45-degrees to match the valve. The third is opened up to 25- or 30- degrees.

A valve seat is around 6mm thick, so the angles are typically divided up so that the first angle is about 3.5mm. The second is 1.5mm. The third is 1mm wide.

On high-performance engines specialists will sometimes cut five angles in the valve seat, or even cut ‘radius’ valve seats which further encourage the gases to flow around the valves.

The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves within the head.

Camshafts

The choice of camshafts is a world of its own, and is far too complex to go into detail in this cylinder head porting guide. You can check out our camshaft guide for more advice.

However, the camshaft does have a massive influence on how the head works and reacts with different aspects of head tuning. It’s worth summarizing some of the key points while looking at cylinder heads too.

The camshaft turns rotational movement into linear movement to open and close the valves. The camshaft design determines the length of time the valves open for (duration) and the height the valves rise to (lift). These different designs will give an engine different characteristics. However, as far as the head is concerned, the camshaft dictates how much air/fuel mixture gets in and how much exhaust gases get out of an engine. Any modification carried out to the head, such as porting or bigger valves, needs a camshaft tailored to suit. For the best advice speak to cylinder head specialists or direct to the camshaft manufacturers. They will be able to guide you specifically for your engine.

Most cam follows are hydraulic, but mechanical items are often required with particularly aggressive cam profiles.

Cylinder head porting a normally aspirated engine vs forced induction

When cylinder head porting a turbocharged or supercharged engine, you need to take a different approach to that when porting a naturally-aspirated cylinder head. With a turbocharged engine you can force a lot of air/fuel mixture through what is not necessarily a well-designed port, so the incoming gases are not too much of a problem. However, getting the exhaust gases out is.

On a traditional naturally-aspirated engine, the exhaust ports need to flow around 75% of the inlet ports. For example, if an inlet port flows 100cfm, the exhaust ports would need to flow around 75cfm. However, on a turbocharged engine the exhaust ports need to flow around 90% of the inlet ports. So, using our previous example, this would mean that the exhaust valves would need to flow 90cfm instead of 75cfm. Therefore, in short, a turbocharged head needs much more work on the exhaust ports, and a naturally-aspirated head needs more work on the inlet side of things.

Love modified cars? Did you know that we host performance events across the year at some of the biggest race tracks in the UK? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment events page to see what’s coming up next. 

The post Cylinder Head Porting: A Comprehensive Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

What Is a Camshaft?

Well, to put it simply, a camshaft operate your engine’s inlet and exhaust valves, opening and closing them at the right moments to allow your engine to run. By making changes to when your valves open – how far they open and how long they open for – you can transform how your engine performs.

Lift & Duration

The two main things you can adjust by tweaking your cams are lift (which is how far your valves open), and duration (which is how long your valves are open for). In performance terms, higher lift gives improved power with very little loss of low rpm performance.

However, you’ll be limited to how much is possible without the valves colliding with the pistons, or causing excessive wear to the cams and valve train. Unlike lift, cam duration is a very give-and-take thing, and while increasing duration can boost top end power, it usually also decreases low rpm power by a similar amount.

For this reason, full-on race engines that barely go below 7000rpm run super long duration cams. But most road-going engines run shorter duration cams for more useable low-rpm performance.

Variable Valve Timing

Many cars these days have some form of variable valve or cam timing, such as the famous Honda VTEC setup. While we won’t bore you with how it works. This means you can have the best of both worlds from one set of cams. A sensible mode for low-rpm driveability and economy, and a bonkers mode for high-rpm mentalist power. Awesome!

Thanks to the way VTEC engines use one cam profile for low rpm use and another at high rpm, wild cams are less of an issue for driveability in a VTEC-equipped car as they can be in other engines. Unfortunately, Honda fit wild cams as standard in their performance VTEC engines, like in the Honda Civic Type R. For most situations, to take them any wilder would make the car undriveable. However, on milder VTEC engines this gives a great opportunity to increase top end power without ruining drivability.

Single And Multi-Cam Setups

It doesn’t take a genius to work out how many cams a quad cam engine has, but why do engines have differing numbers of camshafts? The most basic is a single-cam engine, and this means there’s one camshaft controlling all the valves. On a straight engine it means you have two cams, one controlling the inlet valves and one controlling the exhaust valves. The main advantage of this in tuning terms is that more adjustment is possible.

In a ‘V’ or ‘flat’ engine design, twin-cam means one overhead camshaft per head, with each working like a single-cam. Finally, quad-cam is just like twin-cam on a straight engine, but a V or flat engine has two cams per head.

What If There Isn’t a Camshaft?

Not all engines even have a camshaft; prime example, Mazda’s RX-7. Mazda rotary engines and many two-stroke engines have none at all. On a conventional four-stroke piston engine though, cams and valves are vital. Unfortunately, the force required to open valves is huge, in fact, it saps around 25 percent of most engines’ power at idle speed. Because of this, if there was no need for cams and valve springs, engines would be far more powerful and economical.

Unsurprisingly, many manufacturers have realized this. Development of designs using electromagnets, instead of cams and springs, to open and close the valves are in progress. Koenigsegg deploys something similar in its Gemera hypercar. Once the tech has become more mainstream though, it’ll allow levels of valve tuning that’ll make a VTEC look like a steam engine.

What camshafts are right for my car? 

Cams are all about getting the air in and out of your engine, but depending on how your engine receives its air in the first place can change what sort of cams are right for you. All engines are different – as are people’s opinions of what’s too wild – and you should always do research into the effects of different cams in your chosen engine before making a final decision. Now you’ve been warned, here’s a basic guide…

Naturally-aspirated engines 

With no air forced in to your car, you have little choice but to run fairly wild cams and, unfortunately, live with a smaller and higher rpm powerband when you go for increased power. Exactly how far you wish to go is up to you, but often up to 280-290 degree cams give a substantial power increase, along with suitable supporting changes, while still being acceptably drivable on the road.

Turbocharged Engines

These engines, even from the factory, run far milder cams than their normally aspirated equivalents because they have the air forced in, meaning they don’t have to sacrifice so much low down power by using particularly wild cams. For maximum gains while retaining drivability, high lift but low duration cams are the suggested route to take, and these are often marketed as ‘Turbo cams’. Long duration have a double disadvantage on turbo engines because the low down power loss you get on all engines is usually compounded by a slower turbo spool, so you’ve got to be careful how far you go.

With your average four valve per cylinder engine, you can usually get well over 200bhp per liter on pump fuel with relatively mild cams around 260 duration, which keeps the car tractable and responsive low down. On race turbo engines running high boost, we’ve seen around 400bhp per liter running similarly mild camshafts. That’s not to say wilder cams are not useful, because if you’re building an engine for all-out power or top speed use then super long duration cams very similar to an N/A engine will get you the power at much lower boost; albeit at the expense of a lot of torque and low down power.

Unequal Camshafts

Another common trick on turbo engines are unequal cams, where the inlet cam is, for example, 265 duration, and the exhaust cam is standard, or the inlet is 285 duration but the exhaust is a milder 265. This, as mentioned earlier in the unequal cams section, is a good way of increasing power by letting the turbo push in more air without losing too much low down power.

Overlap is a debatable subject on turbo cars, and often can depend on the tuner’s preference and engine spec. While overlap leads to the fuel/ air mix still being burned as it exits into the turbo and potentially helping spool, if the engine has more backpressure than boost pressure the effect is often reversed and performance is lowered with very little gains anywhere.

Supercharged Engines

Supercharged engines respond very similarly to turbo engines with regard to cam choice, aside from one factor: overlap. Apart from a few maximum-effort high-rpm only applications, overlap will do nothing for a supercharged engine aside from hugely lower its performance at some parts, if not all, of the rev range.

The reason is that the pressurized inlet air and the fuel that is added along with it, would just be thrown out of the exhaust, increasing emissions, exhaust temps and back pressure, but wasting a huge amount of power at the same time.

Things to consider when upgrading a camshaft 

Like most fun things, there’s such a thing as too much. In fact, too much cam can make your car run really badly. The lumpy idle and a high rolling road bhp figure from some lairy cams might make people think your car is fast, but when you have no low-down power and a tiny power band, it’s at best a pain in the ass to drive. And at worst, not actually very fast.

Naturally Aspirated Engines

With N/A cars, especially ones without any form of variable valve/cam timing, you will always be giving away low-down power to gain high rpm performance. So, make sure the rest of the engine is just as wild, or all you’ll do is lose low-down grunt, without gaining anything worthwhile up top.

Forced Induction Engines

With turbos and superchargers it’s even easier to have too much cam. While a pair of fast road cams in your otherwise standard naturally aspirated engine may wake it right up, the same cams in your standard turbo or supercharged lump could make it lose a ton of low-rpm performance without gaining anything on the top end.

In some cases we’ve seen cars lose peak power with OTT cams. As your tuned turbo and supercharged engine specs get wilder, so do the worthwhile camshaft specs, but compared to an N/A engine, it’s always quite mild. It’s often possible to double the standard power on a turbo car with stock cams still fitted, and even fitting the cams from the lower power N/A version of your engine is usually an upgrade. Don’t go too crazy!

Additional Modifications To Help Your Camshaft Upgrade

Pop in a set and gain 25bhp? It’s rarely that simple. Here are a few more things that often need changing…

• Uprated valve springs – These stop the springs becoming coil bound or being forced open by boost pressure or exhaust back pressure.
• Adjustable cam pulleys – Used to precisely set up aftermarket cams, they look damn pretty too.
• Notched pistons – Many wilder cams require modified pistons to stop the valves crashing into them at full lift.
• Solid lifters – Most cars have hydraulic lifters, but these can’t cope with seriously wild cams, so a solid lifter conversion needs doing. More maintenance is required, and a bit more engine noise, but it’s worth it.
• Uprated cambelt – Not vital, but when you’re revving your car higher and harder, it’s a wise and cheap upgrade on many cars.
• Modified head – There’s only so far you can go with cams until your head needs work. From oversized valves and bigger ports, to a bit of grinding to stop the giant cam lobes whacking into the head. It all needs doing when you’re building an engine with wild cams.
• ECU Remap – Even the mildest camshaft swap will benefit from the fuel and ignition settings being tweaked to take advantage of the increase in airflow the cams have given.

Love modified cars? Don’t miss out on our Fast Car Entertainment event series! We bring together some of the coolest modified car builds in the UK and Europe at iconic venues across the UK, like Silverstone and Goodwood!

The post What Is a Camshaft & How Does It Work? appeared first on Fast Car.

When it comes to cheap speed, there is no single BMW that even comes close to the E90/E92 335i. Which is especially true once you dip into some tuning. BMW’s first foray into turbocharged petrol cars was a revelation when it was launched way back in 2006. It’s basically the German Supra powered by Munich’s 2JZ, the N54.

With 306bhp and 295lb ft of torque straight out of the box, it was an incredibly rapid machine from factory. Once the tuners unlocked the potential within that remarkable engine, all hell broke loose. The N54 became the stuff of legend on the BMW tuning scene. Its successor, the N55, is less of an out-and-out powerhouse but it too has some serious modding potential. Whichever version of the BMW E92 335i you end up choosing, you’re going to have a lot of fun.

BMW E92 335i engine tuning

Whether you have the twin turbo N54 or single turbo N55 engine the gains that can be had are huge. First off, you’ll want either a remap or a tuning box, and there are plenty of options for both. This should release a further 60-80bhp. A good intake kit is also worth a look, although gains on its own won’t be huge. When you’re running more serious mods it comes into its own.

The charge pipe on both engines is flimsy and can break even when running stock boost. Once you crank up the power, you’re going to need to strap something studier to your engine. We’d recommend looking at the Renesis pipe from SSDD complete with uprated blow-off valve. Or the VRSF item for your N55. When you up the boost the stock blow-off valves can leak, so it’s always worth upgrading them.

Exhaust tuning

Downpipes would be next on our shopping list. You can either pick up more expensive high-flow catalytic convertors. Or de-catted ones, which are cheaper and will give you slightly more power. The choice is yours and even with a primary de-cat you’ll still pass the MOT on emissions.

With all these mods on board, we’d also want to add an upgraded intercooler. Checkout someone like Mishimoto, this will help keep intake temperatures down. The stock system is fine and you won’t really see much in the way of gains. The one thing you will gain is more noise and both the N54 and N55 sound great with an aftermarket exhaust.

Turbochargers

At this point, you’re going to have somewhere in the region of 400bhp+ on an N55 and 420hp+ on an N54, which is a good amount and your E92 335i will be feeling very quick. You can have more power, but things get seriously expensive from this point on as you’re going to have to upgrade your turbos.

Suspension tuning

If you’re on a budget then a set of lowering springs would be our first port of call on the suspension side of things. They’ll give you a much-needed drop and will sharpen up the handling. But with anything over around 70k miles on the clock, the stock dampers are going to be feeling tired. As a result, we’d either choose a spring and damper combo, like the Bilstein B12 kit, or opt for some coilovers. For the money, you really can’t beat BC Racing’s RAs.

If you’re serious about sharper handling then a set of thicker anti-roll bars are worth investing in too. We’d also definitely consider looking at some poly bushes because the stock bushes are likely to be pretty worn. They’ll make a huge difference to how the car feels and drives.

Fancy something a little different? There’s been significant improvements in air suspension systems over the years. No longer are the days of ultimate lows and completely compromising handling. Now, you can have both worlds. In fact, some air suspension systems are more than capable of performing on track. So don’t rule out the option of air suspension. If you want to learn more about how they work, be sure to check out our guide to air suspension.

BMW E92 335i brakes

For brakes, we would start off with the classic triple combo of braided lines, rotors and pads. Any discs from a good performance brake company will be fine, whether they’re drilled or dimpled or grooved, it all helps with cooling.

Brake pad choice is often down to personal preference, but we’ve always been happy with EBC Yellowstuff pads. They offer good performance without too much dust. Want something with a little more bite and resistance to heat? Check out Ferodo DS2500 pads. Great for track work but still perfect for road use, too.

For hoses you can try HEL or Goodridge, both are good and you can’t go wrong with either one. If you end up running big power then you might well want a big brake kit, and here you can’t beat K-Sport for value for money. There are a whole host of options out there, including from the big players including Wilwood, AP Racing and more.

Interior

Inside, if you’ve got an auto or Dual Clutch Transmission with the weird push-pull paddles, you can retrofit the M3 DCT paddles. If you’ve got the early iDrive you can upgrade to the later CIC setup, there are plenty of companies out there that offer a retrofit service. You can also install the E9x M3 seats if you want something that looks a bit more special and offers more support.

We’d also be tempted by a vent gauge to keep an eye on our engine vitals, with the one from P3 Gauges an excellent choice. You could also stick an M Performance electronic steering wheel in there with the digital display. Although these are not cheap and you’ll pay around £600 for a used one.

BMW E92 335i styling

If you’ve got an M Sport then you don’t need much because it’s a good-looking car. If you have an SE, we’d go for an M Sport-style kit from MStyle. We’d delete any chrome, so black grilles are a must, maybe a splitter up front, diffuser, maybe a bigger spoiler as well. We also love carbon so we’d definitely have a few of those finished in the good stuff.

Beyond that, some carbon mirror caps, side blades and maybe an M3-style bonnet or a CSL-look boot lid. On E92s and E93s you can’t carry out the LCI headlight swap, but you can get some custom headlights from someone like KYCS. You could also get some brighter, white LED bulbs for the angel eyes. It’s much easier at the rear where all the LCI rear lights will fit pre-facelift cars. Though you’ll need adapters to make sure the car is happy with the LEDs.

BMW E92 335i tuning verdict

With prices at rock bottom and tuning potential that’s through the roof, the E92 335i is, without doubt, the ultimate BMW performance bargain. Even with the potential problems that you’ll face with the engines, there’s honestly nothing that would put us off buying one of these (check out our buyer’s guide on how to get a good one). If you want to go fast without spending a fortune, this is the best used BMW you can possibly buy and it requires no thought or deliberation.

Photos: Patrik Karlsson, Viktor Benyi, Christos Markou, Zayne Smith.

Love modified BMWs? We’ve got the show for you. We’re hosting our German Car Festival event this October 5th at Goodwood Motor Circuit. Don’t miss out on the action! 

The post BMW E92 335i Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

As one of the best-known hot hatch heroes, there’s a whole smorgasbord of Honda Civic Type R EP3 tuning products, but which ones should you choose? To guide you through the minefield and ensure you come out with the best possible result, we’ve broken the car into its component parts to give you specific advice on how to maximize each area when tuning your car.

We’ll show you which parts you’ll want to upgrade – as well as which ones work fine from the factory – to let you know the essential areas to spend your cash to get the very best from what is an extremely capable car.

Honda Civic Type R EP3 History

As the first official Civic Type R to come to UK shores, Honda decided to build its new hot hatch close to its latest target market. So, in 2001, the car’s production began in… Swindon in the UK. Still, the lack of perceived JDM mystique didn’t do the EP3’s sales figures any harm, as it went on to become one of the best-selling hot hatches of all time.

Boasting a headline grabbing 100bhp per litre from its screaming 2.0-litre VTEC engine, plus a slick-shifting six speed ‘box and an agile chassis to exploit all that high-revving power, the model quickly established itself as the benchmark hot hatch for a whole generation of performance car enthusiasts, and has become one of the most popular rides to modify and tune.

Over the years, just about every tuning method you can think of has been successfully applied to the Honda Civic Type R EP3, from throttle bodied 9000rpm track monsters, to turbocharged 1000bhp drag queens, so the world really is your oyster when it comes to building your dream EP3 Civic Type R, the only hard part is deciding which route you’re going to choose!

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Tuning Guide

Below, you’ll find we’ve focused on each area of the car, highlighting which areas you should consider upgrading, when you should do them and crucialy why. We’ll identify the weak areas on the car, and which areas are brilliant from factory. To skip to a specific area of tuning, be sure to use the jump links below.

• Engine Tuning
• Transmission Tuning
• Suspension Tuning
• Brake Tuning
• Wheels & Tyres
• Styling Upgrades

Engine Tuning

Coming out of the factory with 197bhp, the K20 VTEC motor is one of the truly legendary Japanese powerplants. Equipped with dual-profile camshafts featuring the trick VTEC system, it offers drivers a unique Jeckyl and Hyde driving experience where below 5,800rpm it uses a low rpm profile that is relatively docile and economical but, breach that magic crossover point, and it switches to the high rpm performance profile where all hell breaks loose!

Some people love this dual personality. Others hate it. Nevertheless, it’s an attribute that certainly makes for an exciting drive, if you can live with the relative lack of low down grunt or simply enjoy revving the engine hard to extract the best performance.

The other issue with the Type R’s K20 engine being a highly-strung naturally aspirated motor is that power gains are not as easy to come by as a factory turbocharged car. This isn’t because the engine doesn’t take well to tuning, far from it, but with forced induction always being the place where big gains are found on any engine, you need to add the cost of converting the N/A engine to turbo or supercharged power into account if you are hoping for much over 300bhp.

Intake Tuning

As with any engine, extracting more performance means getting your motor breathing right, and with the K20, that means replacing the stock airbox with an induction kit. You can get small gains with a freer-flowing aftermarket drop-in filter, but ultimately you will need a complete induction kit to release the maximum performance. There are many options of induction kit on the market at wildly varying price points. As a rule of thumb though, especially with tuning parts, you do often get what you pay for, so do your research and don’t just go for the cheapest option.

We’d recommend either an Injen cold air intake for around £300 (which locates the filter down in the cool air behind the front bumper) or a Tegiwa carbon air box for £425 (which mounts near the stock location but uses a skuttle-mounted scoop to draw in cold air from the bonnet). If money is no object, a £830 Gruppe M ram air system (which is also a skuttle scoop design) is regarded as the best of the best. Expect to see a small improvement in response and power but a very noticeable gain in induction noise, especially when VTEC kicks in!

As well as an uprated induction kit, a larger diameter 70mm throttle body (from around £200) and matching uprated inlet manifold will also improve intake speed and volume, but can be quite costly. A popular and well-regarded inlet option is to run either an RBC or RRC inlet (priced from around £500), which are both OEM Honda parts, but have improved flow characteristics over the EP3’s UK-spec PRB item. However, they will need mild modifications to fit; something that many companies can do for you before purchase.

Exhaust Tuning

So now you’ve got more air coming into the engine, you need to get it out again and for that you need a freer-flowing exhaust system. The naturally aspirated K20 motor is especially receptive to exhaust tuning, but only by replacing the whole system including the manifold. The range of systems available are huge, as is the variation in price, so again it pays to do your research and not necessarily go for the cheapest one.

When it comes to the manifold, there are two basic designs – either 4-1 or 4-2-1. The 4-1 design offers more top-end gains and the 4-2-1 offers more mid-range performance. Prices range from around £350 for the Japspeed item, to over £1200 for the Toda Racing kit.

But whichever you choose, you’ll want to pair it with a 2.5in, or preferably 3in, exhaust system with either sports cat (around £500), or de-cat. Again, prices vary from around £550 for an off the shelf cat-back  2.5in system from the likes of Cobra Sport or Milltek, to over £600 for a fully bespoke custom 3in system from a company like Solid Fabrications. We’ve heard of gains of over 20bhp and 20lb ft from a full exhaust system, and it will complement future engine upgrades too.

Remapping

Once you have fitted your bolt-on modifications to the inlet and exhaust system you’ll need to have a suitable remap of the ECU to ensure safe running, and to extract the maximum potential from the setup. The most common way of doing this is with a Hondata ECU, a direct replacement for the standard unit, but far more suited to tuning. These start with the basic K100, which is available supplied and calibrated from around £750 to the more advanced KPro 4 coming in around £950. Once fitted, they can be custom remapped to suit any engine spec, even big bhp forced induction setups, and with the inlet and exhaust mods, should see around 240bhp, as well as good gains in midrange performance too and a lower VTEC engagement point, getting you onto that spicy cam profile sooner.

Further NA upgrades

Building on this spec, the next step would be to work on the head, although this will depend on how far you want to take naturally aspirated tuning. If around 250bhp is your end goal then a set of Skunk2 drop in cams (around £730) is an easy upgrade that will only need remapping to get to this level. However, beyond this, things get a lot more serious and expensive.

If sticking with the naturally aspirated route, further gains will come from either building the 2.0-litre into a high-compression screamer, or swapping the bottom end for a more torquey 2.4-litre unit from the K24 and retaining the K20 head – known as a Frankenstein build. Bang per buck, a Frank-build is your best bet as, not only will it likely work out a cheaper route to 270-280bhp, but it will also be more driveable with better low down and mid-range torque, and will also be less stressed and more reliable.

Forced induction

As ever, when it comes to big power, it’s hard to beat forced induction, and supercharging and turbocharging are both tried and tested options for the K20. Turbocharging gives the best overall power at the expense of throttle response. Alternatively, there are two different types of supercharger you could opt for. A positive displacement supercharger gives instant boost but is slightly limited on power, whereas a centrifugal supercharger is a happy medium between that and a turbo.

The general consensus is; although much more is possible, around 350bhp is the safe limit for long term reliability on stock internals, but this is easily gained on even the most basic of bolt-on supercharger and turbo conversions on the market from the likes of TTS Performance, CPL Racing, and TDI North. At around this level, the Jackson Racing supercharger is generally the most popular, simply as it gives the maximum drivability and fun, thanks to its ability to give full boost instantly.

If you want to go further, and if you feel capable of rebuilding the engine with forged internals, there is almost no limit. TTS sell Rotrex supercharger kits capable of in excess of 500bhp, and there are various turbo conversions available that push out in excess of 700bhp. In fact, it’s testament to how good the K20 engine is, that stock size head ports and the standard crankshaft can both handle well over 900bhp when turbocharged. Of course, this kind of power is only really any good in a drag car, but if you want it, it’s possible…

Honda Civic Type R Transmission Tuning & Upgrades

When it comes to the EP3’s transmission, its best to budget in replacement parts. While the motor is certainly capable of more power, the transmission isn’t, with the clutch being a particular weak area when upping power. Here’s what you need to consider when tuning.

Clutch upgrades

The EP3 stock six-speed transmission will cope with all but the highest power levels, but the stock clutch certainly won’t.

As most of these cars are getting on a bit now, even those with mild mods can see the clutch start to slip if its still on its original item, so it’s a good idea to budget for an upgraded clutch if you are planning upping the power. A typical Stage 2 kit from the likes of Action Clutch will cost around £540 will handle as much torque as you’re ever likely to see from naturally aspirated tuning, but supercharged and turbocharged cars might need to look to something with added bite such as a Stage 3 or 4 unit.

While you’re at it, it’s worthwhile upgrading the flywheel to a lightweight 3.2kg chromoly unit at the same time, as it only costs around £240 and perfectly fits the K20’s rev-happy nature.

Driveshafts

Honda driveshafts are sturdy units, but even these can break or wear out over time, especially with forced induction equipped cars pushing over twice the OEM power through them or under heavy track abuse. Upgrades for sub-250bhp cars are available for around £120 per side, but a pair of units capable of up to 500bhp will set you back around £700.

Gearsets

As we’ve already the mentioned, the EP3 has a great gearbox as standard, but you can still improve it. By swapping out the cogs for a close ratio set (from the likes of Spoon or MFactory), your Type R will accelerate quicker, although at the expense of a lower top speed. These are available from around £400, but installation will require a pricey gearbox rebuild. Although if money is no object, then Quaife’s QKE8J five-speed sequential gearbox will make your EP3 Civic Type R feel like a touring car when banging through the gears.

Differentials

Honda fitted the UK-spec EP3 Type R with a conventional open differential from the factory (the JDM models have a LSD as standard), so one of the best ways to improve the overall driving experience, even on a standard EP3, is to swap that for a limited-slip type differential.

Aggressive plate-type LSDs are available for racing applications, but most owners who predominantly drive their cars on the road prefer the torque-biasing types such as Quaife’s ATB, or the MFactory helical LSD. Prices range from around £600 to £750, plus fitting, but are a worthy upgrade and make a lot of sense when the gearbox is out for a clutch replacement/upgrade; adding one will transform the way your EP3 Type R handles.

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Suspension Tuning

The EP3 has excellent suspension out of the box, producing an agile handling hatch that’s fun and playful. If you push it to the limit though, you’ll eventually overwhelm it, which is where uprated parts can help you out.

Springs and dampers

A set of uprated lowering springs is your cheapest options and will not only lower the ride height of your CTR, making it look better, but it will also lower the centre of gravity and stiffen the suspension too. This reduces roll and improves grip in the corners. Beyond this, a set of adjustable coilovers from the likes of BC Racing, Meister R or Bilstein are available from around £800 and will give you even more control, both over the ride height and the level of damping, allowing you to tailor the car’s handling to your own preference. Many quality kits also come with camber adjustable top mounts to help dial in the perfect alignment too.

Bushes

Most OEM cars come fitted with rubber bushes from the factory. These are cheap and replaceable, and are likely to have worn out by now, so swapping them for a firmer polyurethane upgrade makes a lot of sense. Not only do you get a genuine performance benefit of the stiffer bush and less unwanted flex in the suspension system, but they’ll never need replacing again in the future.

A full suspension bush kit from the likes of SuperPro or Polybush costs around £350, but you can upgrade individual areas one at a time, with prices ranging from £60 for front wishbone bushes.

Anti-roll bars

Anti-roll bars do exactly what they say on the tin – resist your car’s propensity to body roll. By fitting stiffer items you can increase their effect. For the EP3, you have two main options: the JDM spec ARBs are actually a big improvement, so these are a popular fit, and at around £100 each they are good value for money too. If you are looking to go a little more hardcore, Progress and Tanabe also make even stiffer versions for a little more money.

Geometry

Any performance car will benefit from a proper alignment of its suspension geometry and the EP3 Civic Type R is no different. But don’t just add it on at your local tyre fitters when you have your new tyres fitted, as their equipment is not really set up to get the best out of your modified ride. Your best bet is to go to a specialist who has the best equipment and knowledge to dial in custom camber, toe and caster settings to give you the handling you want from your car. To get the kind of camber you will want for a fast road or track setup, you will need some camber bolts from the likes of Eibach (£20). If you want the ultimate setup, get them to corner weight the car with you sat in the driver’s seat too.

Check out our wheel alignment guide for more geometry advice. Be sure to also check out our guide to the best suspension for the Honda Civic Type R. 

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Brake Tuning

The EP3 has decent enough brakes for stopping the standard 197bhp, but the factory 300mm discs, and sliding calipers with their raised ‘Type R’ lettering just don’t quite cut it when the power and therefore the speeds increase. Therefore, the first upgrade for most owners is a simple case of fitting some performance pads and discs from the likes of EBC.

But for those who use their Type R on track, or just want some more pose factor for the show ground, binning the single-piston sliders in favour of some big four or six-pots is the way to go. YellowSpeed’s big brake kit is a tried and tested option. It’ll cost you around £1500, but for the money you get 330mm discs and six-pot calipers. Alternatives include EBC’s new Apollo Balanced BBK, offering four-pot power with the added bonus of uprated pads for the rear too. If that doesn’t suffice, K-Sport, CompBrake, and Tarox all make EP3 brake kits for varying budgets.

Performance Wheels & Tires for the Honda Civic Type R EP3

The standard tires are normally 205/45/17s, and an upgrade to a 215 or 225 wide tire, often along with a profile drop to 40, gives a little more grip without needing to do any major arch work. With a high performance or track tire, you will get the bonus of a stiffer sidewall and a softer, stickier compound too. The CTR’s standard 17in alloy wheels are actually quite light, so there is no enormous need to change them. But, if you wish – especially when going for a 225 wide tire – you could fit 8x17s quite easily, as long as you stick to no lower than a ET35 offset. One thing to make sure of is that the replacement wheels are as light as you can realistically afford; heavy wheels will dampen all the good work you have done with your suspension upgrades.

Check out our best Honda Civic Type R wheels guide for some EP3 wheel inspiration. 

Honda Civic Type R Interior Modifications

The EP3 has a unique interior with cool red carpets and a funky dash-mounted gearshifter with a cool alloy gearknob, but the seats are not the best, especially when it comes to lateral loads when cornering hard. Luckily, replacements are aplenty with everything from flashy carbon-backed recliners to full-on BTCC-style wrap around buckets available from the likes of Recaro, Cobra and Corbeau.

But don’t forget to look within the Honda stable for alternatives too, as the Recaros from the DC5 are a popular option too, with even the awesome standard seats from the FK2 able to fit with a little modification to the rails. Other than that, you’ll be pretty much set with a nice retrim of the stock steering wheel or a racing replacement. Though, you could always rip it all out and go for a full race-spec roll cage of course…

Honda Civic Type R EP3 Styling Upgrades

There’s a big movement for people wanting their EP3 Type Rs to look as stock as possible, with only the most minor of styling tweaks, however, if you’re not one of them, feel free to go wild! Everything from subtle lip kits and spoilers to full-on wide arch kits and vented bonnets is available off the shelf, while you can rarely go wrong with swapping out metal parts and panels for lightweight carbon-fibre alternatives.

If you love Japanese cars then we’ve got the performance car shows for you. Be sure to check out our brand new Classic Japfest event, which is taking place at Goodwood circuit on October 6th. Brought to you by the same organisers of Japfest, it’s set to be a fantastic event filled with nostalgic Japanese icons. 

The post Honda Civic Type R EP3 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Hydraulics are everywhere, just not often on cars as this setup is reserved for the hardcore people. This isn’t your simple car suspension upgrade that most modifying cars will do. No. Instead, it’s for the people who want nothing else from their car aside from it to be able to be dumped to the tarmac in an instant, raised back up just as fast; and depending how trick their system is, adjust the height of each corner individually, and at speed. Do you want your car to roll on three wheels or literally jump off the ground? Well, you can with hydraulics.

What is hydraulic suspension and why do I want it?

Just like air suspension, hydraulics are fairly simple. With these, a hydraulic ram replaces the entire spring and shock assembly, which is the kind of thing you’re more likely to see controlling the bucket on a digger, or a crusher. As with air-ride, control of the rams is down to electrically operated pumps feeding the fluid to the rams via lines. However, all the components; from the rams, the pumps, and the electrics that supply the power and control, tend to be bigger and heavier, so hydraulics are more expensive and harder to fit than air suspension.

The final thing regarding wanting hydraulics is that you need to understand performance and comfort tend to go right out of the window. A full hydraulic setup, especially with the additional electrics needed, are heavy as hell. And the ride quality tends to vary from too low to drive and ultra soft, to rock solid and uncomfortable. There is very little option for a good middle-ground, especially when it comes to handling.

What are the pros and cons of hydraulic suspension?

Pros: They’re fast acting, and extreme height changes are possible with ease. They are ridiculously cool. How else are you gonna make your car dance and even jump off the ground like the West Coast OGs?

Cons: Expensive, very heavy and custom fit only. It requires serious electrical upgrades and they give relatively poor ride and handling. High pressures and hydraulic fluid mean things can get messy if they go wrong. Hydraulic rams tend to be less reliable and resistant to the weather and road salt in comparison to air bags.

When and where did hydraulic suspension originate? 

Hydraulics first appeared as a modification in the low rider scene in the late 50s. This mostly started after a new California law made static drops illegal. At the beginning, hydraulic pumps and rams were salvaged from all kinds of things and fitted to low riders to allow the ride height to be adjusted at the flick of a switch any time the cops appeared.

From what started as the only way to make a car legally low, soon turned in to a complete modification scene based around low riders. The unique things hydraulics could do, such as rapid and extreme height changes of individual wheels, to the extent of making the car jump and dance appealed to many. As time has moved on, hydraulic kits have gone from salvaged military and industrial parts to custom made bits especially for cars. However, the basic methods, components and uses of aftermarket hydraulic kits are exactly the same to this day.

What components make a hydraulic suspension system?

Rams

This is what you replace your conventional shock and spring setup with, and are found on everything from JCBs and planes, to the trolley jack you own. These are fitted directly in place of the conventional suspension, though in most applications custom work will be needed to mount them. It’s these rams being filled and emptied with pressurized hydraulic fluid that raises and lowers the car.

Springs

Yes, we know we said the rams replace the shocks and springs. However, on some kits, be it for improved ride quality, or to stop the car getting smashed to pieces from the shock on hopper/jumper cars, small suspension springs can also be added to inject a little compliance. Not all hydraulic kits run these, or indeed need them, but they do seem a good idea!

Pumps

You need a way of powering it, and that’s by using a heavy-duty hydraulic pump or four. While they work in the same basic manor as air systems, these are much bigger and more powerful. They need to use pressures over ten times more than air bags. These huge power and pressure levels give the faster response, but this means they are heavier and take more electrical power to work.

Fluid lines

No weedy plastic piping and easy push fit connectors with hydraulics unfortunately; this stuff tends to be serious heavy-duty hose with big metal connectors to cope with the massive pressures. It’s a good job too. If you get a leak with hydraulics, you’ll know all about it. The high pressure means it can spray out all over the shop. Hydraulic fluid isn’t the nicest stuff, it’ll do a lot more damage than air!

Electricals

Big, powerful pumps need big, powerful electrics. If you want to make your car raise up and down really fast – or even dance – the electrics need even more beefing up. Multiple batteries are common, even ten or more very large batteries is not a rare sight, as well as heavy duty wires and uprated or even twin alternators.

Beyond this, it’s quite common practice to convert the usual 12-volt car electrics to truck style 24-volt, or even mains-spec 240-volt electrics on serious low riders for maximum performance. The electrical system is actually the most in-depth part on hardcore low riders to create the huge amount of power needed (over 2000 amps in some cases) to make the car dance or jump. You can have cars with up to sixteen switches on the control box for all the crazy moves the owner wants the suspension to do.

Can I just install hydraulic suspension and away I go?

Frankly, unless you own a ‘64 Impala or similar, the answer is no. Hydraulics is such a specialised thing, especially outside the US low rider scene, that aside from a very few typical low rider cars, hydraulic suspension is always a custom setup.

While the days of people using hydraulic rams from scrap industrial machinery may be over, even hydraulic setups intended for use on cars need custom fabrication to fit. Someone very handy with mechanical modification and fabrication could certainly fit a kit. However, usually we’d recommend that they are left for a professional to install. People such as Rayvern Hydraulics specialize in this kind of work.

What’s it really like to use hydraulic suspension on a daily basis?

Not much turns heads more than a car on hydraulics, that’s for sure. However, from a performance or comfort point of view, it’s not something that most would be able to handle as a daily driver.

The problems with hydraulics come down to two main things: weight and ride quality. A boot full of heavy batteries and pumps will noticeably slow down any car, and while most American low riders are big block V8s with plenty of grunt to haul the weight, your average two liter European or Japanese car will massively struggle to get anywhere fast. The other main problem is the ride. Most kits at are too low and too soft at their maximum settings to drive. Then, when raised up, the suspension becomes almost rock-solid, which is not a good thing for comfort or handling.

Is hydraulic suspension legal?

In the UK, there isn’t currently a law that would suggest hydraulic suspension is illegal. That being said, every road car must pass a yearly MOT, and if the tester deems it unsafe then that’s that. Provided it’s been installed correctly and, just as important, maintained correctly, you shouldn’t have any issues.

In the US, things get a little trickier due to the fact that you have federal laws and state laws. Our advice would be to research the laws in your state before you go ahead and install it. Given the history of hydraulic suspension and how it was a way of bypassing Californian laws regarding lowering your vehicle’s height, we suspect you’ll be OK in most states. But always do you research!

What about Citroen’s hydropneumatics suspension?

OK, when we talk about hydraulic suspension, we’re purely talking about this from an aftermarket point of view. For you hardcore enthusiasts out there, you’ll know that Citroen became famous for using hydraulic suspension, namely hydropneumatics suspension. In the aftermarket sense, the job of hydraulics is to lift the car up and down, quickly. On a very basic level that is. However, Citroen used it in a different way, allowing the wheels to move up and down quickly to absorb energy. In doing so, it meant the car could remain as stable as possible, providing sublime comfort.

If you love modified cars in all forms, including those that bounce up and down in the above article, then we’ve got some great news for you. Throughout the year we host a plethora of performance car events for enthusiasts. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more info. 

The post Hydraulic Suspension Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

Why would you want a performance exhaust? Well, most standard car exhaust systems pose huge restrictions on a tuned engine, or even a standard one. The reason for this often comes down strict policies that manufacturers have to adhere to. This is either due to noise or environmental concerns. Although it can equally come down to a simple matter of ease of ground clearance, or ease of fitting.

Sometimes companies even deliberately make them restrictive so that the standard car isn’t too powerful. As a result, exhaust-based performance gains can be easy to achieve. The gains on an otherwise standard car could only be a few bhp but on turbocharged cars that could be 20bhp+. In that scenario, spool up tends to be improved too.

Lightness is another benefit of a performance exhaust. On particularly restrictive systems the reduced backpressure could in theory help reliability a little. So, now that you understand why performance exhausts can be so desirable, let’s dive a bit deeper into the intricacies.

Does a performance exhaust have to be loud?

No, a performance exhaust doesn’t have to be loud. Despite the common preconception, big power and big noise do not run hand in hand. If you had the money and space you could easily build a 1000bhp exhaust system that would pass every track day noise limit.

The reason most performance exhausts are loud is it’s a lot cheaper. It’s also a lot easier, and lighter, to make a loud exhaust. This is because it needs little or no silencers. It also goes without saying that sound is often an attraction to many buyers.

Silencers are not a restriction as long as they are straight-through versions. This means the path of the exhaust gas through the silencer is almost totally unrestricted, despite being quieter.

The main challenge with building a quiet exhaust is the price. A straight three-inch piece of pipe may cost $30 / £25, but a three-inch silencer could set you back $170 / £150. When you may need four to pass noise regulations, plus extra pipe work and labor costs, it’s easy to see why many performance exhausts are loud; if they weren’t many couldn’t afford them!

Track noise limits and performance exhausts

This is a big talking point among track day goers because a large number of cars fail the limits. Generally speaking, tracks have a noise limit of between 95dB and 105dB static. Some have drive-by limits as low as 85dB, low enough that even standard supercars fail the test.

Some circuits have purely static tests. This means you aren’t tested while driving. However, you can still be black flagged for being too loud on track. Some circuits have very occasional “noisy days” where there are no dB limits. Some occasionally turn a blind eye to cars noisier than the advertised limit on special events.

But this is rare, so if you ever want to hit the track you really need a quiet exhaust system. Also be warned that what sounds louder to the human ear isn’t always louder according to the decibel meter. The low rumble of a turbocharged car often breaks the noise limits on track days far easier than N/A; never presume your car is quiet enough or too loud, get it checked.

The final thing worth mentioning is that track days are being banned at locations all around the UK due to noise complaints. Complaints that would never have happened if the exhausts weren’t too loud in the first place. So it’s wise to fit a quiet exhaust regardless of the current rules at your chosen track or airfield.

Exhaust noise suppression

As already mentioned, track day noise limits are strict. Even on the road a loud exhaust attracts a lot of attention from the police. So, a quieter exhaust system can be a really good idea.

The trouble is you don’t want to lose any performance.  You also may not be able to get a full custom made ultra-quiet system, so what are your other options? Well, there are many, some cheap, some not so cheap; some free flowing, and some far from it!

Tailpipe bungs

These bolt inside the tailpipe and do exactly what the name implies and quietens down the exhaust. Although many people don’t realize this, a bung is hugely restrictive unless your exhaust was far too big in the first place. It can often cripple a car’s top end power output.

Bungs can literally be fitted and removed in minutes, but in the majority of places where you want maximum performance, you also need to be quiet, so their use is somewhat limited. As a quick emergency fix, the tailpipe bung is hard to beat. However, ideal it is not.

Extra exhaust silencers

I’m sure you’ve realized silencing via a restriction is a bad idea for performance. You need to do something better if going fast is your goal. The most obvious and effective solution is extra silencers, meaning no lost performance while still lowering the volume. Getting an extra silencer or two welded into your current exhaust system is an easy job for any competent welder or exhaust specialist.

If you don’t want to go this far and don’t mind your car looking a bit odd, some people fabricate removable extra silencers for track days. A real silencer is far more expensive than simply creating a blockage, but it is the price you have to pay for performance.

Exhaust bypass valves

An option which actually comes as standard on many performance cars is a bypass valve. This, unsurprisingly, bypasses your quiet, but restrictive exhaust at either the flick of a switch or at a certain boost pressure. This lets the gas out of a less restrictive but louder exhaust, generally a straight pipe. Again, this keeps static and slow speed volumes to a minimum, but won’t stop you being black flagged for excessive drive-by noise.

Flapper valves

Working in a similar manor to bungs are flapper valves, which are controlled either electronically or mechanically. When closed, they restrict the exhaust system and drastically lower the exhaust volume.

Unfortunately, when closed these are even more harmful to power than bungs, and we have seen turbo cars unable to reach even half their desired boost pressure with one of these fitted and closed as they are so restrictive.

Exhaust tailpipe direction

The most overlooked way of reducing your exhaust volume are cleverly placed exhaust outlets. Have you ever noticed a lot of race cars have turned down tailpipes so the exit actually faces the ground? This is so the sound waves hit the ground and are either absorbed or deflected everywhere, effectively and noticeably reducing exhaust noise.

Some people take this even further by having a side exhaust exiting from the opposite side of the car to where they know the noise meters are placed. A variation on this is to run one silenced side exit either side of the car, splitting the exhaust gas, and therefore the noise, 50-50 between each side.

Performance exhaust flames

It’s not uncommon to see a tuned car emitting flames from the exhaust, and the frequency this happens can be affected by the exhaust system. If you removed the entire exhaust from a car and revved the engine while looking at the exhaust ports you would see flames emitting from them on any engine. But the exhaust length and silencers make these flames invisible at the tailpipe.

On a more powerful car, especially one mapped to still inject fuel when off throttle, the flames can sometimes reach out of the tailpipe. Things like silencer boxes can reduce the chance of the flames a little. Conversely an exhaust that spits flames generally burns up the silencing material a little faster, reducing its effectiveness after a while.

As cool as exhaust flames look, the police really don’t like them, as our contributor Stav once found out in the past when he was handed a £750 fine for “Endangering the public”, and “Dangerous emissions from a motor vehicle” amongst other things due to his exhaust flames…

Do engines need backpressure?

Once again, the simple answer is no, despite the common myth saying otherwise. Fitting a huge exhaust system to certain cars may have bad effects, but this isn’t due to reducing backpressure. Backpressure is never a performance enhancer; you want as much exhaust gas out of your engine as quickly as possible. This means, especially on non-turbo cars, careful choice of pipe lengths and sizes so the exhaust gas moves as fast as possible out the exhaust.

On turbo cars it is simple, as manifold design has less effect and a huge post-turbo exhaust will only give gains with no losses. On non-turbo cars, although we won’t go into detail as it’s a hugely complex subject, any low down power lost isn’t down to lack of backpressure, it’s down to the diameter and scavenging effect of the new exhaust design moving the power band to higher in the rev range.

Screamer pipes

Most people will have heard of the term screamer pipe. It basically refers to a separate exhaust pipe coming from the wastegate of a turbo car. The “screamer” part of the name is due to this pipe normally being unsilenced and incredibly loud. As a wastegate doesn’t open until full boost, a screamer pipe wouldn’t cause any issues when driving normally.  Or for an MoT. But the noise is almost assured to get you black flagged on track.

There are two solutions to this. Either simply plumb the screamer pipe back into the rest of the system, which would quieten it down but potentially lose you power. Or keep the screamer pipe separate, but add a silencer or two to quieten it down. This option is the best for performance and noise reasons, but it adds significant extra cost and weight.

Performance exhaust emissions

Almost any car built in the last twenty years will need a catalytic converter fitted to pass an MoT emissions test. Unfortunately due to their design they are generally not very free flowing; exactly the opposite of what you want for performance. There are various ways of getting around this, namely a sports cat, a de-cat pipe, or a cat bypass valve.

A sports cat is the most effective solution. This basically means a larger freer flowing cat than the standard item, increasing flow without affecting your emissions. Unfortunately, sports cats are expensive and at high power levels can still pose a restriction, possibly necessitating the need for parallel sports cats.

The cheapest and simplest option is a de-cat pipe. This removes the cat altogether and replaces it with a straight piece of pipe. However, doing that will cause your car to fail any emissions testing. You’ll have to refit the cat come MoT time and hope you don’t get pulled over for a random emissions spot check. And besides, in this day and age, we need our cars to cause less pollution – not more…

The least common, but possibly the best overall solution, is to use an electronic or vacuum operated bypass valve. This lets the exhaust gas pass the restrictive silencer when needed, but travel through it when the car is being daily driven or checked for emissions.

Performance exhaust legalities

There is always a lot of discussion about the legality of exhausts, especially about where on the car they exit. Unfortunately, it is a real legal grey area. What one police officer or vehicle tester may be happy with, another may not. The reality is excessive noise is likely to get you noticed by the authorities, as will ones exiting from unusual places.

If you want the least bother, make your car as quiet and subtle as possible. But as long as they are quiet and safe enough, side exit exhausts, and even front bumper exits, are not illegal. Some vehicles come with both of these options as standard.

What are exhausts made of?

There are three types of materials commonly used in exhaust systems.  Mild steel, stainless steel, and titanium. Mild steel is by far the cheapest and is quite durable. However, due to its susceptibility to rust and stainless steel prices lowering, mild steel exhausts are rare.

Stainless steel is the most common type of exhaust material due to its resistance to rust. However, it can be brittle, especially on exhaust manifolds on turbocharged cars.

The final material is titanium which shares similar properties of stainless steel but actually weighs nearly half as much. This makes it the material of choice for serious race cars wanting to shed every last kilogram. The disadvantages of titanium include the fact that it’s very hard to weld properly, but most of all, cost. They’re generally around four times as much as a stainless system. So full titanium exhausts are rather rare and for big budget performance cars only.

Should I get a custom exhaust?

Although many people associate the words “custom exhaust system” with a one-liter Saxo fitted with a brace of six-inch tailpipes, the majority of big power cars will have had at least some of their exhaust system custom made. In fact, companies like Milltek are even developing fresh performance exhaust systems for new-age hybrid sports cars.

For many people custom exhaust components are fitted due to changes in the car’s turbo setup. There may also be a lack of adequate off the shelf parts, or they want to to make their current system a little quieter to pass track noise regulations.

There are countless custom exhaust manufacturers around the UK, all with varying equipment and skill levels. So, make sure they can build you the exact part you want at the correct size to avoid confusion. This is particularly true when it comes to larger bore piping, as not all companies are able to do it all. Need some inspiration? Check out some of the best sounding cars of all time.

Love modified cars? Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment event series! 

The post Performance Exhaust Guide: It’s Not Just About Sound appeared first on Fast Car.

The Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 went back to fast Ford roots of sticking a big engine in a little car; then, stiffening up the chassis, and sending it down the road for some chuckable-yet-useable fun. It really was the XR2 reincarnated in the 2000s.

And, just like the XR2, the chassis underneath can easily cope with more power than the stock 2.0-litre Duratec’s 150bhp (hence the ST150 tag). Also, just like the XR2, tuning the engine gives significant improvements, either in screaming naturally-aspirated guise or gulping down wads of boost from a forced-induction conversion. But, because technology improves over time, the rewards on offer from a well-tuned ST150 far outweigh anything Ford’s earlier hot hatches could ever hope to muster.

Over the years we’ve seen plenty of fast-road conversion with around 200bhp combined with sensible chassis and braking upgrades. In more recent times, more ST owners have turned to adding boost to give some quite crazy power figures for a little Fiesta, initially with bolt-on supercharger kits, but latterly with full-blown big-turbo installations. That’s before we mention the abundance of engine swapped cars out there. And, of course, the Mk6 ST has always been capable on track, and we’ve seen plenty of track and full-on race cars embarrass much more powerful machinery on circuits thanks to an uncompromising and incredibly nimble chassis setup.

Or, like most people, you could combine your perfect blend of all of the above to create an ST that is unique, fits your needs and reflects your personality perfectly. Here’s our comprehensive guide to tuning the Ford Fiesta ST Mk6.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Engine tuning

The ST’s 2.0-litre Duratec is a robust engine, and as long as you keep an eye on the oil levels regularly (it does like a drink) you can get stuck in straight away with the upgrades. If you want to be sensible, the first upgrade should really be a power steering relocation kit; it won’t gain you any power or improve performance but will stop the original setup spitting its PAS fluid all over the engine bay at high revs. And when you start tuning, you’ll want higher revs. Some tuners recommend an oil cooler upgrade for similar reasons.

When the car was new, Mountune offered warranty-friendly performance packages in the shape of MP165 and MP185 tuning kits. Complete kits are no longer available, but some of the key components (such as the air filter kit) are. That’s your starting point when tuning the MK6 Fiesta ST: engine breathing. The original airbox is an awkward and unsightly beast, not to mention restrictive. Bin that in favour of a K&N 57i kit, ITG foam induction kit, or the Mountune cold air induction system, and you’ll free up some grunt immediately, but more importantly, lay the foundations for things to come.

With fresh air coming in, it’s then time to focus on getting the exhaust gases out. Cat-back exhaust systems give added audible appeal, but for more meaningful gains, consider a sports cat from Scorpion, Piper or Milltek or even a decat if you intend to use the car off-road.

Add a suitable remap to the mix and you can expect to see around 165-to-170bhp – plus a much more enthusiastic driving experience – from these simple upgrades.

Camshafts

The next step is to add a set of fast-road cams as Mountune did with the MP185 kit. A tried-and-tested profile is the Cosworth 200-spec camshaft kit; fit without the need to change valve springs, and will produce up to 200bhp with supporting mods. Other profiles from the likes of Newman Cams and Piper Cams are also available, as are double valve springs for cam kits with very high lift.

For cams like those, you’ll be looking at building a high-spec naturally-aspirated engine, and the next restrictions are the inlet manifold and throttle body. Mountune fitted a unique inlet on its top-spec MR200 tuning upgrade for the ST, as did Cosworth with the 200 kit. The former is no longer available new, but replica Cosworth items are available from tuners like Jamsport and SiCo Developments, while Pumaspeed offers its own similar version.

With a suitable remap, this will take power to around 190/200bhp. This power is the sweet-spot for fast-road applications. If you’re looking to retain some degree of originality, get off here.

Naturally-aspirated Tuning

If you’re looking for more power, you now face two distinct options. Stick with naturally-aspirated tuning or add some boost by way of a supercharger or turbocharger conversion.

Sticking with naturally-aspirated tuning, a set of throttle bodies comes next. Many of these require a stand-alone ECU, but there are kits available that work with the ST’s drive-by-wire throttle, working work with a remap on the stock ECU. You’ll see over 200bhp, but you’re into the realms of diminishing returns and every extra horsepower will become more expensive and time-consuming to extract. That said, with a 2.3-litre bottom end, ported and big-valve head, lairy cams and enormous throttle bodies, over 300bhp is possible. This is usually reserved for race cars where 2.0-litre naturally-aspirated regulations are extreme.

An easier way to reach similar power levels – and beyond – in a road car would be to switch to forced induction.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 forced induction tuning

While the ST’s Duratec engine will make for an excellent, high-revving, throttle-bodied howler capable of delivering over 300bhp without a boost gauge in sight, getting there is neither cheap nor easy. But converting to forced induction is surprisingly simpler than it sounds.

Jamsport launched several bolt-on supercharger kits for the Mk6 ST using centrifugal Rotrex units. A stock Duratec will take 300bhp on standard internals, plus because of the linear nature of boost delivery based on engine speed, these conversions even worked perfectly well on the factory ECU. A supercharger would work on an otherwise stock ST, but best results come when adding cams, exhaust systems and inlets. Even more is achievable when you throw in some uprated internals and a bigger blower.

Supercharger conversions retain that naturally-aspirated feeling behind the wheel, but for the biggest jump in performance you can’t beat a turbocharger. There are many different routes available, and it’s all custom-build stuff so not really an off-the-shelf kind of upgrade. As such, your engine builder or tuner can work with turbo choice, cam profiles, engine spec, and a whole host of other variables tailored to what you want. Big power is possible, and we’ve seen STs knocking on the door of 500bhp with well-spec’d turbo conversions.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Transmission tuning

The Mk6 Fiesta ST came fitted with Ford’s common IB5 gearbox. It may lack the sixth speed of more modern transmissions, but it’s so short-geared you don’t really need another. The stock IB5 might not be the slickest ‘box Ford ever fitted, but it will cope with most you’ll throw its way, especially if sticking with naturally-aspirated tuning.

The ST lacks a limited-slip differential, though. And while the IB5 ‘box is strong enough, the stock diff has been known to break. And when it breaks it usually disintegrates and takes out the entire gearbox. An uprated limited-slip diff like Quaife’s ATB is an ideal solution for most road cars, but track and race cars might prefer a more aggressive plated-type from Gripper or 3J Driveline.

The standard clutch and flywheel are adequate for most power increases up to around 200bhp (providing they’re in good health), but for anything more you’ll need an upgrade. Helix offers various options: uprated organic for road use, or heavy-duty paddle clutch kits for track and race.

For boosted cars, a beefier gearbox like the MTX-75 is essential. It’s not a straight swap, though, and will need modifications to the engine bay, along with a different clutch plate to suit the input shaft. You’ll need that limited-slip differential now too.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 suspension tuning

Developed by Ford’s TeamRS division at the Nürburgring, the Mk6 Fiesta ST has fantastic handling straight out of the box. It’s fun, playful and communicative; exactly as a hot hatch should be. It does sit too high, though.

You’re unlikely to see many STs with original springs these days, but if yours has then a set of lowering springs from Eibach are the answer; the lower stance not only looks better but it helps performance a little too. The best option is to couple the springs with matched updated dampers; Bilstein’s B12 kit has long been a favourite of ours and works exceptionally well on the Mk6 ST.

So well, in fact, for a fast-road car there isn’t any real need for coilovers – certainly not budget types that will hinder rather than help performance and ride quality. If you’re a track fan you may find that the adjustable settings and stiffer spring rates of a set of a quality coilovers are helpful for perfecting the handling package; ASTs are said to be the best for the Mk6 ST. I’ve had first hand experience with ST’s coilover package for the Mk6 and found it to be a great balance between road and track use without breaking the bank.

Polyurethane bush upgrades from SuperPro or Powerflex are wise investments to replace worn rubber units and stiffen the chassis. Add a performance rear anti-roll bar from Whiteline, and rear axle spacers at the same time, and you’ll have a decent little setup.

Dedicated track and race cars have the option of full roll cages, motorsport-spec rose-jointed suspension components to really stiffen things up, but often are too much of a compromise for any road car. Air ride has been used to great effect on show cars too.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 brake tuning

Don’t think the seemingly small diameter 258mm front brakes are no good; when combined with decent fast-road compound brake pads, uprated discs, and braided lines they’re perfectly adequate for fast road use. In fact, the Fiesta ST Championship used to run them, so they are proven to work on track too.

There is a cheap and easy upgrade, though: fitting Focus ST170 300mm discs with Mk3 Mondeo callipers. This is a fantastic upgrade that makes a notable difference on a very small budget – they work even better with uprated discs, pads and lines.

Another in-house upgrade is to use the Brembo four-pot callipers from a Mk1 Focus RS. You’ll need suitable brackets, but they’ll clear the stock 17in rims when you add a set of wheel spacers.

Perhaps the best option, though, is a proper aftermarket big brake kit. There’s plenty of options from the usual suspects such as AP Racing, K-Sport and Hi-Spec, offering various diameters; and that’s crucial because for a track car you’ll want to drop an inch or two on wheel size to optimise handling.

At the rear, there’s no need for anything fancy. Simple disc and pad upgrades are effective, but if you want bigger discs, then fitting the ST170’s carriers to the Fiesta callipers allows you to run 270mm rears within the stock wheels.

Interior

The stock half-leather ST seats are comfy and supportive enough for day-to-day use, but for enthusiastic driving and the odd track day you’ll want something that can hold you in place a little better. Mountune fitted a set of Recaro Sportster CS seats (the same as found in the Mk2 Focus RS) to the demo car back in the day (which we later robbed for our own project ST) and they were perfect; comfy enough to use on long journeys, but more than supportive enough for fast road thrills and a spot of track day fun. These, with the rear seats deleted and maybe a half-cage, will give an excellent clubsport vibe that many owners are looking for.

But they are expensive. And seemingly fitted to every modified Ford these days. So, for something a little different, one of the reclining bucket seats from specialists like Corbeau could be the answer. Especially as these allow the use of performance four-point harnesses when on track, or the factory three-point seatbelt for comfort and practicality on the road. Dedicated track and race cars will look to lightweight carbon/Kevlar FIA-approved race seats and matching harnesses.

Wheels & Tyres for the Mk6 Fiesta ST

The stock 17in multi-spokes were funky when the ST launched, but they do look a little dated today. And they’re heavy. Very heavy.

In a test Fast Ford conducted a few years ago we weighed the stock alloys and tyres at a whopping 20.87kg each. In the same test, we weighed a similarly sized set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s with the same tyres, and they tipped the scales at 17.6kg. That’s a 12kg reduction. And they say that 1kg of unsprung weight is worth 4kg of chassis weight, which means that’s the same as removing a massive 48kg!

So, the first thing is to ditch the stock alloys for something lighter. Many cast alloys offer significant weight savings over stock, but forged alloys will give the biggest gains.

It’s also the perfect opportunity to play around with offsets and increase width to fit a fatter tyre. Most road cars stick with 17s or drop to 16s, but most dedicated track and race cars go even smaller to 15in diameter wheels as this gives the best handling characteristics on the Mk6.

As for tyres, Toyo’s R888R is a firm favourite for track use, but any quality tyre will do. Just don’t fit budget rubber and undo all that excellent work on the chassis and upgrades.

Check out our guide to best aftermarket wheels.

Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 styling upgrades

The funky styling and chunky arches on the Mk6 Fiesta have something of a retro appeal these days. Despite the Mk6 Fiesta only being a teenager, car designs have changed so much through the 2010s and into the 2020s that the ST has a decidedly old-school feel to its aesthetics. There’s no need to improve on what Ford gave us, other than maybe removing any twin stripes if they were fitted, as they do look dated by modern standards. Lairy kits and massive rear wings are all available, of course, but a more subtle approach with a lowline kit and front splitter is preferred by many.

If you’ve got to this point in our Mk6 Fiesta ST tuning guide then the chances are you love a modified Ford. The good news for you is that we host both Ford Fair and Ford Fest, two of the best Ford shows around. We also happen to host Trax at Silverstone, too, which means you’ll get to mix it up with other marques too. Be sure to check out the Fast Car event series for more information. 

The post Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Talking about air fuel ratios isn’t the sexiest subject in car tuning. But it’s one of the most important! Put simply, it can be the difference between life and death for your engine.

But there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. What’s scientifically best? Which is best for fuel economy? Is there a best air fuel ratio for power? And finally, what’s best for your engine’s lifespan? All four scenarios are very different, and require different AFRs.

To complicate things further, they vary from engine to engine. Even the type of fuel used will affect the ideal air fuel ratio. The reality is you don’t need to be an expert, that’s the job of your tuner. But understanding the basics of air fuel ratios and acting earlier when something isn’t quite right could save your engine – and your wallet from an expensive repair bill!

Poor AFRs kill parts

When parts break on your modified car, we often say they aren’t strong enough. But in reality, component parts and gaskets or seals rarely fail because they are weak. Instead, less-than-ideal AFRs are often the main culprit. Ever melted a piston? It’s not because the aluminium was too weak but because poor air fuel ratios have led to detonation and pre-ignition. Had a head gasket fail straight after tuning? It was working fine before, but again increased cylinder pressures and temperatures caused it to fail.

Don’t fall into the trap of thinking, “Oh I’ve blown a head gasket. I’ll get a stronger one to stop it from happening again.” Often, reliability issues continue because the root cause of the problem is detonation rather than weak or faulty components. Most cars can take around double the standard power on the original engine internals (some can do more like the famous 2JZ engine, and some can fail at stock power levels like the Mk3 Focus RS). But for any engine to last, the air fuel ratio must be correct. That is why ECU remapping is so crucial to get right.

Why can bad air fuel ratio kill my engine? 

One word, detonation. Detonation is where the air and fuel mixture ignites on its own – without the aid of the spark plug. This happens when lean mixtures increase combustion chamber temperatures and pressures to a level that causes the fuel to spontaneously combust.

While in mild form this is fairly harmless, the severe detonation common when tuning cars is highly destructive. Detonation causes enormous cylinder pressures, far in excess of even what the highest boost pressures could give without detonation. This, at the very least, causes your head gasket to blow, melts your pistons, and ends your engine’s life.

This catastrophic failure can happen very quickly. Which is why head gaskets are often designed to be the weakest point in an engine. It’s a lot cheaper to fix the head gasket than it is to carry out a full bottom end rebuild!

What does lean or rich mean with air fuel ratio?

When someone says that a car is running lean or rich, this relates directly to the air fuel ratio. The ideal ratio is generally around 14.7:1. That’s 14.7 parts air for every 1 part of fuel. This the amount of air required for the complete combustion of the fuel, known as the stoichiometric mixture or Lambda 1.0. Anything that has more air (or less fuel) than this is considered lean, or a Lambda of greater than 1.0. While a ratio than has less air (or more fuel) is classed as a rich AFR or Lambda of less than 1.0.

Lean AFRs

If the air-fuel ratio is too high, it means there is excess air and not enough fuel. This is known as a lean mixture. In this case, the combustion process may not consume all the oxygen present, leading to higher combustion temperatures. This can result in engine damage due to overheating, misfires, and it can lead to detonation (or knock).

Rich AFRs

Conversely, if the air-fuel ratio is too low, it means there is excess fuel and not enough air. This is known as a rich mixture. In this scenario, not all the fuel is burned during combustion, leading to a waste of fuel and lower engine efficiency. The unburned fuel can also cause bore wash and oil dilution, or damage exhaust components such as catalytic converter. It’s also the reason you’ll fail the emissions test come MoT time.

The science behind air fuel ratio 

As we’ve mentioned, the scientifically optimum mixture for normal petrol engines is 14.7:1. However, that doesn’t mean a car should run at that. For optimum fuel economy 16-17:1 is usually best – any leaner and the car will begin to misfire.

Maximum power is usually found between 12-14:1, but this may be too lean for safety on many engines. For maximum reliability at full power, air fuel ratios from 10.5-12.5:1 are considered best, depending on the engine. Richer than around 10.5:1 and you start to get noticeable black smoke from the exhaust. The car can also struggle to run properly without misfiring.

How does tuning affect AFRs?

Tuning complicates things further. Varying compression ratios, camshafts, boost pressures, and so on all affect the ideal air fuel ratio needed at any one point. This indicates the importance of having your car remapped as you add tuning components to it. To get a good overall car, you need to have a mixture of these AFRs. This should depend on how the car is being driven at any moment in time. Thankfully, that’s what modern fuel injection can supply you, provided the car has been mapped properly.

How do I tell if my air fuel ratio is safe? 

The best way of knowing your AFR is safe is to go to a trusted and reliable tuner to get your tuning work done. What is safe on one engine isn’t necessarily on another. Enlisting the help of an expert to make sure things are safe is the most important thing here. It’s worth getting things checked every six months or so to make sure everything is still how it should be.

If you’re convinced you need an AFR meter, make sure it’s a wide band setup. A narrow band only tells whether it’s at 14.7:1, leaner than it, or richer than it. Considering in performance terms that even 14.7:1 is too lean for maximum safe performance, a narrow band sensor is useless.

My air fuel ratio is fine, does that mean my engine won’t blow up? 

Truth be told, you can never be totally sure an engine won’t die. As long as your ignition timing isn’t wildly wrong and the motor is in good general health, having a safe AFR is the key to longevity.

Other issues; oil, cooling, and general strength of components can always destroy an engine. But the number one killer, especially among tuned turbo engines, is detonation due to incorrect air fuel ratios.

What will change my air fuel ratio? 

Electronics fail on cars from time to time, that’s just a fact of car ownership. However, sometimes a sensor failure can have catastrophic effects on your engine. There are various sensors that affect fueling. But, the air flow, air pressure, and temperature sensors are the most likely to drastically affect your fueling. Failing in a manner that makes the car run rich means you should notice but no damage will be done. Failing and making the car run lean can end in disaster.

There is little you can do to stop this happening aside from sorting out any running issues the minute you notice them. However, getting your AFR checked every six months could indicate early signs of a problem. Changing sensors for upgraded versions, especially things like airflow and pressure sensors, will also cause lean running problems if the car hasn’t been remapped to suit.

Camshaft changes

Changing to higher lift and longer duration cams lets your engine breathe more easily. This often means big fueling changes are needed not only to keep the engine safe, but to extract maximum performance from the cam. At high rpm, where the improved breathing gives noticeable power improvements, extra fuel is usually needed to prevent the car from running lean. But at low rpm, especially around idle, a richer mixture is often needed to keep drivability. Longer duration cams mean more fuel is wasted out of the exhaust at low rpm.

Fuel system problems

All components have their limits of capability, and when tuning engines you often hit the limit of what your fuel injectors, fuel pump, and even fuel lines and filter can cope with. Beyond their maximum flow rates, your engine will run lean and eventually fail. Age is another big factor with fuel systems, as they gradually get clogged up with dirt. Fuel pump wiring can also deteriorate, all of which will reduce flow. The final point worth mentioning is the vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator, especially on turbo and supercharged engines. If this pipe splits or is removed, the engine will run incredibly lean on boost, and sometimes won’t survive a single full throttle run.

Fuel system changes

Fitting improved fuel system parts is vital on most cars tuned beyond the basic Stage 1 parts, but fitting them without the car being set up to suit can cause big problems. Installing bigger injectors without a suitable remap can cause the engine to massively over-fuel, which, while not causing instant death, isn’t good for economy or performance. The most potentially dangerous upgrade is the fuel pressure regulator, as you can be almost assured an upgraded replacement won’t be set for your correct pressure. While too much pressure is not a killer, too little equals lean running and a dead engine. Because of this, a fuel pressure gauge is a vital tool when replacing the regulator.

Exhaust changes

You may consider an exhaust to be a minor upgrade, but if it gives significantly more flow and performance, the car will need more fuel to stop the engine running dangerously lean. Some engines automatically compensate to some extent when making changes like this. But many cars, especially turbocharged ones, can run dangerously lean from a simple full exhaust system swap. This therefore would need a matching ECU remap to suit.

Improved intercooler

Cooler air may decrease the chances of detonation, but it’s also much denser and therefore feeds the engine with more oxygen. As a result, the engine would require more fuel not to run lean. Just like the exhaust, some cars will compensate for this and cause no problems, but some cars need a remap to compensate for the intercooler.

Bigger turbo

Even if your boost pressure is exactly the same, if you fit a larger turbo, you will be feeding your engine with a lot more air. Therefore, it can just as easily run lean and die as it would with a boost increase. The reason for this is a larger turbo not only gives cooler, denser air, but also lets a lot more air out the exhaust, which in turn lets more air in the cylinders. Without the extra fuel to compensate, yes, you guessed it, it will run lean, detonate, and the engine will fail.

Boost pressure increase

This is the biggest cause of lean air/fuel ratios, and why many turbo cars have undeserved reputations for blowing head gaskets and melting pistons. Boost increases improve power and torque due to the subsequent large airflow increases, but without the corresponding increase in fuel the car will run dangerously lean and detonate. It’s not just the increased airflow that causes problems either, more boost pressure means higher air temperatures. With higher temps come an increase in the chances of detonation, making it a double edged sword.

Alternative fuels and air fuel ratio

Detonation is the main reason to worry about your air fuel ratio, but that is because normal pump fuels aren’t very resistant to it. While super unleaded is widely available at most pumps, its octane rating of 97-99 RON is fairly low, and a big part of the reason we have to run so rich, especially on turbo cars, to keep things safe.

Race fuel

Expensive and not available in your local petrol station, race fuel is generally reserved for track-only cars. It would need a remap to get the most out of it if you put it in your vehicle. It can be incredibly high octane (120+ RON quite often) and therefore very detonation resistant even with leaner mixtures, but you’d have to be rich to run your road car on it!

Methanol fuel 

Only really viable for full race cars due to it’s highly toxic, corrosive and flammable nature. You will also need about four times the amount of fuel than you need running normal petrol. It’s popular for full drag cars as it’s incredibly detonation resistant, very cold, often negating the need for an intercooler, and contains a lot of oxygen itself, further increasing power.

E85 fuel

While mostly advertised as a cheap and environmentally friendly fuel, the main attraction of it to performance tuning fans is it’s around 106 RON, and therefore very detonation resistant. Similar to methanol, it needs extra fuel to run at peak performance, but at much more road-friendly levels, and is the performance fuel of choice.

LPG fuel

At about half the price of normal fuel, it’s mostly used to save money, but it has performance potential too. LPG is incredibly resistant to detonation, so with a system optimized for power, LPG has the potential to be used as a great fuel on big power turbo/supercharged engines.

Air fuel ratio in diesel engines

Diesel air fuel ratio issues are almost backwards to petrol, and it’s actually overly rich mixtures that cause problems. Lean is good for the health of a diesel engine, if not for the amount of power it produces. A diesel engine runs incredibly lean compared to a petrol engine regardless, and richer mixtures are actually the things that increase heat in the engine and lead to components failing.

Detonation is much less of an issue with diesels. In fact, the clattery noise in diesels is closely related to this. But, it isn’t damaging, apart from in certain situations where it’s incredibly severe, and unfortunately this is usually related, just like on petrol engines, to major tuning errors!

The post Air Fuel Ratio Guide: What are AFRs? appeared first on Fast Car.

Cars are complicated. For the past three decades or so, cars have been controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU for short). This ECU controls virtually everything on your car that allows it to produce power. From controlling fuel levels and ignition timing, to turbo boost control, cam timing, throttle control and more. We’ve got a handy guide as to what is an ECU right here that will help you understand what one is before you learn about the benefits of remapping one.

In short, if you like to modify cars, then without fettling with the electronics controlling all the systems, you won’t be making the most out of any of the modifications you’ve made. Now, we’re the first to understand that it’s hard to justify shelling out for something you can’t actually see, but trust us, ECU remapping is worth it. And that includes if you haven’t made any hardware changes, too.

Getting a remap is nothing like spending a few quid on a swanky new exhaust that you can annoy the neighbors with. The point is though, getting all those electronically controlled settings spot on is essential. Not just for wringing out more power, but for the general wellbeing of your engine. It all becomes obvious when you get in and drive.

What Is An ECU?

All electronic ignition cars (that’s all ones that don’t have an old-school carburetor) use an ECU or Engine Control Unit. This is a computer that constantly reads and evaluates information fed to it by various sensors located around the car. It analyses factors such as engine load, throttle angle, air density, exhaust gases, air, fuel and coolant temperatures, then compares it to a factory preset map. The ECU can then effectively control engine operation and efficiency by adjusting timing, air/fuel mixture, injectors and, on turbo cars, the all-important boost pressure.

For a more in-depth look at what an ECU is, and how they work, read this other handy guide.

Why Would You Remap An ECU?

Manufacturers have to make big compromises when programming their ECUs. Think about it – they don’t know you’re a proper car enthusiast do they. They don’t know you only use the very finest fuel, follow the correct cold start/cool down procedure and service your car regularly. Many ordinary motorists don’t, so manufacturers engineer their standard lumps to endure a bit of mistreatment. In fact, most are put together to perform at way below their potential. They’re basically detuned to increase reliability when neglected and increase fuel economy. Some will also heavily detune their engines to create lower-spec models and meet insurance or economy regulations.

Luckily, the ECU controls pretty much all of this stuff and, if you stick in a new set of parameters changing the preset map, you can iron out these compromises.

Potential downsides to remapping an ecu

Now if you think about the map as a balanced three-way scale between performance, economy/emissions and reliability, if you put some more power in, you then effect the economy/emissions and the reliability. By how much is merely down to how aggressive you’re being when chasing power. All of the parts in your engine and transmission have different stress points, so it’s always advised to work with your tuner to ensure you’re staying within a sensible reliability window. For the most part though, particularly with turbocharged engines, you’re upping the boost pressure, which in turn means more fuel to compensate for the increase in cold air. Thus you’re going to be using more fuel, bottom line. If someone tells you you’ll get more economy from a performance remap, they’re lying.

That being said, remaps aren’t always about opting for more performance. Perhaps you’ve bought a modified car that has been mapped poorly and you want a standard baseline map. Or, you’re a business looking to exploit more efficient economy, thus spending less on fuel in the long run. As a result, there are a multitude of different scenarios when it comes to remapping an ECU. For the most part though, and especially if you’re reading this, you’re looking for more power. So how does that more power come about?

Where Does The New Map Come From?

It takes years of research and development to tune any car to its full potential. Creating an engine map is a technical business because they have to be bespoke for every make, model engine size and configuration.

Then there are the aftermarket stages: a stage one map is often designed to complement, say, a panel filter and exhaust. Stage two could be for further bolt-on mods such as a front mount intercooler and tubular manifold. And stage three for a bigger turbo, injectors and fuel pump. In other words, they’re designed to make the most of all those other mods too. The more hardware changes the further refinement is needed.

The software is a complicated mash of fueling, ignition timing, boost and loads of other figures. But it’s tweaked and developed to increase power and drivability (and sometimes economy) without pushing the engine’s safety parameters too far. This is where your money goes!

Most important though is making sure you use the best possible, tried and tested technology. Always do your research, aim for the highest quality brand and, even more importantly, an installer with experience. You wouldn’t let Average Joe install your boiler to save a few quid, would you? It’s the same thing here.

How Is The Remap Uploaded?

So that’s the map. But how does an installer get it into your car? Well, they can achieve this in one of two ways.

Nowadays OBDII Port mapping is by far the most common way and simply involves uploading the new software through the car’s OBDII port. This is a direct connection to the ECU normally used for diagnostics, and as a result, changing the map becomes a simple plug and play job, achievable in a matter of minutes. It replaces the old map’s settings with the new map and thus controlling your engine just like the stock map does, only this time with a little more power.

What Is Chip Tuning a car?

For cars that aren’t OBDII compliant, tuners have to physically remove the ECU, open it up and solder a new microchip onto the motherboard, a bit like upgrading an early 1990s PC. We normally associate chipping with really old cars but it’s worth remembering it could be any car manufactured before 2001. If a 2000-model Golf 1.8T has a diagnostic port it doesn’t necessarily mean it will be programmable through it.

Can You Remap A Diesel Car?

Well, no need for a sad face, because oil burners love being remapped the most. In many ways, diesels respond to ECU remapping better than petrol motors and, with the right stage pack, you can up the power by up to 40 percent. Bonkers!

What Is Live Mapping a car?

If you want the very best results for your car when remapping the ECU, then that’ll be a live map. This is the most accurate method to re-work those engine parameters. This involves hooking up a laptop to the ECU and going for a drive or hitting the rolling road. This way a tuner can maximise performance far more effectively for any individual car, no matter what the spec. By being able to adjust the parameters from actual data, rather than something more generic (remember every car is different) maximises the safety of remapping the ECU. It allows the tuner to spot any errors, flat-spots, and everything in between.

Why Use A Rolling Road When Remapping?

Of course, the advantage of using a specialist with a dyno is you can actually see what difference your new map is making with each power run. You can also get an indication of any power problems across the rev range and address them accordingly. For optimum tuning, not to mention proving the figures to your grandad, it’s essential!

It also gives you the opportunity to run the car at full throttle without the risk of breaking the speed limit and being pulled by the police. So it offers a level of safety, too. If you aren’t too bothered about the Fuzz, or happen to live near the Autobahn, then connecting a laptop and going for a drive out on the road is going to be the most accurate way of tuning. This is because the data you’re getting are from actual road driving, meaning they’re 100% accurate of the scenario you’ll be in day-to-day, driving the car. On a dyno, you’re replicating the scenario, and therefore air temperature, wind, road surface friction and all of those other anomalies are less accurate.

What Is The Future Of ECU Remapping?

Of course, it’s all very well if you can get your car to a workshop for an expert remap, but what if that’s not possible? Fear not, the solution is simple – nowadays you can buy an OBDII cable and do the job yourself. Some tuners have in-house developed stage one, two and three maps available for most cars, which they can send you via the internet.

All you need to do is plug it in, upload and away you go. You can also log engine data on the road or local dyno and send it over for them to diagnose and tweak. You can remap your car to suit every time you make upgrades.

More recently, Bluetooth technology has allowed for the control of maps via smartphone and an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter plug. Clever stuff indeed!

EV Tuning

Electric cars are increasingly commonplace. As you might imagine, almost all are entirely governed by their ECUs. So, theoretically, the potential for performance gains from remapping EVs is even greater than with ICE cars! At the moment, it’s still early days for this new industry. That being said, we’ve already heard of Tesla tuners being able to use plug and play methods to unlock an extra 150hp! Check out our EV tuning guide for more.

Now you know all about car remapping, how about you get yourself to one of our performance events this year? At almost all of our shows you’ll have the opporunitiy to go out on track and test the increased performance of your motor after remapping it. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Entertainment events here.

The post What Is ECU Remapping? Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

If you want to know more about FN2 Honda Civic Type R tuning, then you’ve come to the right place. We’ll look at which parts need upgrading and which don’t. The aim is to give you a better idea of where you should spend your money, and what your next upgrade should be.

It’s worth noting, the third Type R is quite similar under the skin to the earlier EP3 model despite the radically different styles.

The Honda Civic Type R has long been the go-to hot hatch for keen drivers. It offers an intoxicating blend of rev-hungry, naturally-aspirated VTEC power mixed with a fantastically playful chassis. The FN2 is a perfect example of this, but like all mainstream production cars it does have its restrictions.

Thankfully, there’s an enormous tuning scene and an army of specialists to support Civic Type R FN2 tuning. Whether that’s sticking to the FN2’s naturally aspirated roots and crafting a throttle-bodied, 9000rpm-screaming track weapon, or adding some boost to create a brutish forced-induction fast-road monster ready to go supercar-hunting, the FN2 Type R can do it and can do it well.

Here’s what you should be looking to upgrade when tuning your Civic Type R FN2.

Civic Type R FN2 Engine Tuning

The FN2 Type R’s 2.0-litre K20 engine kicks out a credible 198bhp and revs right round to 7,800rpm without fuss. Those are impressive numbers for any hot hatch of the time but are particularly striking for a natural-aspirated 2.0-litre; the Ford Focus ST of the same era only produces 24bhp more from its 2.5-litre, turbocharged, five-cylinder engine!

But therein lies the FN2’s biggest problem when it comes to performance tuning; it’s already so well optimised from the factory that you won’t see the same huge gains other cars enjoy from simple bolt-on mods. That said, there is still a lot more to come from the K20 if your tickle it in the right places.

There are two distinct routes to tuning the FN2’s motor: stick to naturally aspirated tuning or do what Honda was eventually forced to do with the later FK2 Civic Type R and add some boost.

Remapping

Die-hard fans prefer to stick with naturally aspirated tuning to retain the FN2’s rev-hungry character – it is the last of the screaming VTEC breed after all. Therefore, Civic Type R FN2 tuning typically begins with a remap for around £500 – which, unlike the previous EP3 Type R, is installed via the OBD2 port on the FN2, making Type R tuning much easier.

Don’t expect massive peak power gains though; an extra 15bhp or so is all you’ll get from an otherwise stock FN2. But that’s not the point at this stage; the main benefits of the remap are more mid-range torque and a lower VTEC crossover point, getting you onto the more aggressive cam profile sooner for added urgency.

Performance Exhaust

To make the most of the remap, performance hardware is needed. The main restrictions here, as ever, are inlet and exhaust systems.

Naturally aspirated engines are particularly sensitive to exhaust tuning, and a cat-back system on its own does little more than improve the soundtrack on an FN2. Instead, for any meaningful gains you’ll be looking at a performance 4-2-1 exhaust manifold from the likes of Tegiwa, Japspeed, or Toda Racing.

Prices range from around £350 for the Japspeed item, to over £1500 for the Toda Racing kit . Add a sports cat (or de-cat for track cars where road legality isn’t an issue) and a cat-back system to complete the package. Japspeed and Cobra Sport offer 2.5in (63mm) systems for the FN2 – the former costing around £550, and the latter £850 – but many tuners prefer the larger 3in (70mm) bore of the Tegiwa cat-back exhaust, which is available for less than £500.

Intake Tuning

Next up you’ll need to look at getting air into the motor fast enough to match. Replacing the stock airbox with an induction kit is your next move, and there are plenty of options to suit your budget. An Injen cold air intake kit will set you back £350, but you can spend as much as £1000 on the Mugen kit. The Tegiwa carbon airbox (£450) is a popular choice, as is the HKS kit (£530).

With the basic principles of induction, exhaust, and remap covered, you can expect to see around 220-225bhp from the FN2. The next levels include adding a performance inlet for around £500 (taking power to approximately 230bhp), and finally adding a set of performance camshafts (£620) will give you enough to reach 240bhp.

Further NA Upgrades

And 240bhp is the sweet spot when it comes to Civic Type R FN2 tuning; it’s visceral, lively, and aggressive, and retains that naturally aspirated high-revving character – over 9,000rpm is possible, but you’ll want to add a modified oil pump to prevent oil cavitation at those speeds.

Further tuning will see the use of a larger throttle body, or a set of individual throttle bodies, and when coupled with a K24 2.4-litre bottom end to create what is affectionately known as a Frankenstein engine (stuffed full of appropriate high-compression pistons, beefy con-rods, and so on) we’ve seen over 300bhp achieved from a naturally aspirated Civic Type R. But it does start to get very expensive, and there are other, much easier ways to unleash that sort of power from the Civic Type R FN2… By adding boost.

Civic Type R FN2 Forced Induction Tuning

One of the easiest ways to get big power from Civic Type R FN2 tuning is to add a supercharger kit .The K20 responds well to a bit of added boost; the extra low-down grunt works in harmony with the VTEC’s top end. Kits like those from TTS Performance use the Rotrex range of centrifugal superchargers, with kits starting at around £3600 for parts-only. For that you’d be looking at the entry-level, non-intercooled kit with a C30-94 blower running around 7psi of boost – but that’s still man enough to add around 100bhp at the wheels.

Upgrading to TTS’s Supersport kit sees a front-mount intercooler and suitable radiator upgraded added, alongside a high-flow Walbro fuel pump and 4-bar MAP sensor, but retains the C30-94 unit, now producing over 12psi of boost. That’s enough for 350bhp at the wheels – and you can push 400bhp with some clever use of water/methanol injection too.

Amazingly, there are bigger blowers available too; TTS offers kits with C38 superchargers that will take the power all the way to 600bhp, but you’ll need a fully forged build if you want to run more than around 14psi of boost.

Of course, superchargers aren’t the only way to add boost; we’ve seen epic 700bhp-plus results from a turbocharged Civic Type R FN2, but these are custom one-off builds with price tags to match. It just goes to show that anything is possible if you really want it, though.

For more advice on engine tuning, be sure to check out our guide on how to tune the K20 engine.

Civic Type R FN2 Transmission Tuning

Clutch

The stock FN2 Type R transmission will cope with most things thrown at it. The stock clutch won’t.

For anything more than mild mods, you need an upgraded clutch. A typical stage 2 kit costing under £500 will handle as much torque as you’re ever likely to see from naturally aspirated Civic Type R FN2 tuning, but supercharged and turbocharged cars might need to look to for something with added bite.

The good news is it’s all available. Some tuners also recommend swapping to a lightweight 3.2kg chromoly flywheel at the same time; it only costs around £240 and perfectly fits the K20’s rev-happy nature.

Driveshafts

One area you might need to look at, and almost certainly will for big-power boost applications, is the stock driveshafts. For mild increases they’re fine, but an enthusiastically driven Type Rs, even in NA tune, will chew through them. Upgrades for sub-250bhp cars are available for around £120 per side, but a pair of units capable of up to 500bhp will set you back around £600.

Gear Sets

K20 tuning is popular in the United States and given their love for drag racing and insane amounts of horsepower, some US tuners have even developed uprated gear sets for the stock transmission.

PPG offers a four-speed dog-engagement gearset that is rated to 1000bhp but losing the top two gears isn’t ideal for anything outside of a dedicated drag car.

A better bet would be a set of uprated helical gears from MFactory; at $2500 they’re reasonably priced and have been proven to work in 350-to-400bhp race cars. For the ultimate, money-no-object transmission upgrade, Quaife’s QKE8J five-speed sequential gearbox will make your FN2 Civic Type R feel like a touring car when shifting gears.

Differentials

Almost unbelievably for a car of this nature, Honda fitted the FN2 Type R with a conventional open differential from the factory. One of the best ways to improve the overall driving experience, especially on a tuned FN2 Civic Type R, is to swap that for a limited-slip type differential.

Which type you choose will depend on your driving style and what you use the car for, but most owners prefer the torque-biasing types such as Quaife’s ATB, or the MFactory helical LSD. Prices range from around £600 to £750, plus fitting, but are a worthy upgrade and make a lot of sense when the gearbox is out for a clutch replacement/upgrade; adding one will transform the way your FN2 Type R handles.

Civic Type R FN2 Suspension Tuning

It was never intended to be a comfy motorway cruiser, so when it comes to chassis tuning the Civic Type R FN2 you might as well go for it and create a proper little buzzy B-road blaster. If you bought one as a comfy commuter, you bought the wrong car. But if you want to leave the supercar exotica for dead when the road gets twisty, here’s how.

Springs & Dampers

The first step is, as always, a set of lowering springs. These are cheap (sub-£200) and simultaneously improve both ride and handling and the overall aesthetics too. But for the most noticeable improvement, a set of adjustable coilovers will bring your FN2 Civic Type R to life. Tein, MeisterR, and BC Racing upgrades are all available for around £1000, and all do a good job of firming up the suspension for fast road and track use but without compromising quality or day-to-day useability. Just be weary of coilover kits that seem too cheap to be true; remember the adage ‘you get what you pay for’.

Anti-Roll Bars

Working in conjunction with a set of coilovers, uprated anti-roll bars will help tune the FN2 Civic Type R to give even more grip. Many performance upgrades feature multiple settings to make the bar stiffer or softer, so you can play around and find the perfect setup for you.

Bushes

One more area of the suspension worth looking at is the bushes. Most of the stock rubber bushes will be worn out by now, so replacing them with a firmer polyurethane upgrade makes a lot of sense; not only do you get a genuine performance benefit of the stiffer bush and less unwanted flex in the suspension system, but they’ll never need replacing again in the future.

A full bush kit will cost around £350, but individual areas can be upgraded at a time, with prices ranging from £60 for front wishbone bushes to £140 for rear beam bushes.

Geometry

Like all hot hatches, getting the suspension geometry correct is key to fantastic handling. Perhaps one of the best upgrades when it comes to Civic Type R FN2 tuning is to dial-in some fast-road settings.

Again, this is all personal preference, but a starting with around 1-deg of negative camber both front and rear, with 1mm toe-in at the front and 2mm toe-out at the rear is a good base to build from. A set of camber bolts from Eibach (£20) will allow you to dial in the front, while at the rear you’ll need to add their camber shim plates (£17) to get the required settings.

Civic Type R FN2 Brake Tuning

The FN2’s brakes are the same as those found on the earlier EP3 version; they work well biting down on the factory 300mm discs, and even look presentable with the raised ‘Type R’ lettering cast into the caliper. Therefore, the first upgrade for most owners is a simple case of fitting some performance pads and discs from the likes of EBC.

But for those who use their Type R on track, or just want some more pose factor for the show ground, binning the single-piston sliders in favour of some big sexy six-pots is the way to go. Dynodaze has seen good results with the YellowSpeed big brake kit, comprising a 330mm disc and six-pot caliper, available for around £1500.

Other options from K-Sport, CompBrake, and Tarox are also available, depending on your budget and requirements.

Performance Wheels & Tyres

The stock wheels and tyres are heavy – weighing 22kg each – and there are plenty of aftermarket wheels to choose from. So, ditching the originals in place of some lightweight performance alloys will not only allow you to improve the looks of your FN2 Civic Type R, but you’ll also gain a genuine performance edge too.

The stock rims are 7.5in wide with an ET55 offset for both 18in and 19in versions but increasing width to 8.0in means you can get a fatter tyre to help put all that power to the tarmac. The stock ET55 does mean the wheels tuck in the arches a tad too much; ET40 fills the arches much better and still avoids clearance issues, even on an 8.0in rim.

As for tyres, fit the best you can afford. Fit budget-spec ditch-finders at your peril.

Check out our best Honda Civic Type R wheels guide for some FN2 wheel inspiration. 

Interior Upgrades For Civic Type R FN2

The FN2 comes well spec’d as standard. It does everything you want it to, so any upgrades in here will be purely personal choice; dress it all up in sexy carbon fibre, add some luxurious diamond-stitched retrim upholstery, and give everything a warm bathing glow of aftermarket lighting upgrades? Or just rip it all out in the name of saving weight before bolting in a roll cage and pair of bucket seats?

The choice is yours. Just don’t fit a big stereo – nobody wants to listen to your The Corrs Greatest Hits album over a screaming K20!

Civic Type R FN2 Styling Modifications

The eighth-generation Civic is one of the most recognisable cars ever designed; the angular styling does a good job of getting noticed on all its own, without the need for huge body kits and other add-ons. But, of course, if you do want to personalise your FN2 Type R then upgrades like a Delta Styling rear wing and Mugen-inspired splitters, rear valance, fog vents, and grilles add some extra aggression without being too OTT.

Love modified cars? Then why not get yourself down to Silverstone this September 1st for the biggest celebration of modified cars, it’s Trax 2024!

The post Civic Type R FN2 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Pops, bangs and flames; everyone likes that, don’t they? Well, hell yes you do. As a result, ECU remaps that make your exhaust pop, bang, and flame when you lift off the throttle are popular. But how do pop and bang tunes work? More to the point, are they bad for your engine’s health? Unless you’ve been living in a cave for the last few years, we’re sure you’ve heard mixed reviews. This guide will aim to answer all those questions.

As this is a slightly controversial subject, some companies declined to get involved. But thankfully, Motorsport Developments are experts when it comes to remapping all factory ECUs, and gave us their words of wisdom. A huge thanks to them. They’re certainly the guys to speak to if you want a safe, but effective map yourself!

What are pop and bang maps?

The exhausts of heavily-tuned cars have naturally popped, banged and flamed since the dawn of time. Have you noticed lately, more cars have been popping and banging from the exhaust when the driver lets off the gas? Mildly-tuned motors and factory production cars now have a cool burbling exhaust on the overrun.

This is because lots of tuners and manufacturers have realized that owners love these kinds of noises. With modern engine management being so capable, it means they are now commonly mapped into the car’s ECU.

How does it make the pop and bangs?

For this bit, let’s start with the expert words of main man Stewart Sanderson from Motorsport Developments.

“Pops and bang maps, or burbles, is simply a calibration feature within the ECU. We set up a specifically targeted, very lean misfire once you lift off the throttle.”

Normally on an engine when you close the throttle, your fuel injectors don’t fire at all. This removes all the energy from your engine, allowing it to slow down. This process is smooth, quiet, and safe. No pops, no flames, no nothing.

Back to Stu’s: “If we want to create a burbling sound while the engine slows down, we need fuel. But, burning fuel will create some piston load too, slowing the rate the engine will decelerate on the overrun. So we need to move the energy away somehow to prevent that,” he explains. “To do this we need to do two things: retard the ignition timing to reducing the torque. This allows the car to decelerate normally, and run a very lean air/fuel ratio so too much heat isn’t created, which could affect reliability.”

The heavily retarded ignition also means much of the combustion happens within the exhaust system. The fuel is ignited by the hot exhaust or catalytic converter, hence the pops and crackles you hear from your tailpipe.

What about loud pops and bangs?

“The intensity of the burbles on these set-ups varies depending on the exhaust temperature; how hard the car’s been used. The hotter the exhaust system is, the easier this tiny amount of fuel we add flashes off,” Stu explains.

But what if you don’t want subtle OEM-style burbles and fancy something crazier? Well, the methods are similar to the above, but with a little more fuel added and even more ignition retard. We’ve seen people open the idle speed control valve or opening the drive-by-wire throttle a little for more air too. In fact, these modifications are the basis of how anti-lag systems work on rally cars. But this isn’t a performance mod, this is purely to create cool noises and flames!

Can crackle maps be applied to any engine? 

In a word, no. But it can be done to a hell of a lot more engines today than ever before. In theory, it can be done to any petrol engine. Whether that’s normally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged. Anything that has an ECU with which the fuel and ignition settings can be heavily modified.

Some cars can have their ignition retarded further still. They allow the ability to open the idle valve or open the throttle a little. This can can provide more extreme pops and bangs, if that’s what you want. Providing you can find a tuner capable of adjusting your ECU to suit. The vast majority of engines can have this applied to some extent at least.

Do pop and bang maps have any performance advantage? 

No. This is done purely for the noises. As it works in a similar manner to rally anti-lag systems, really extreme set-ups could work like a mild anti-lag system on a turbocharged engine. This would help keep your turbo up to speed. But in reality, the pops, bangs and burbles usually happen only for a few seconds after you let-off the gas; purely for the sound. If you were able to set it to such an extreme level that it had a true anti-lag function, you’d be calling it anti-lag.

Are pop and bang maps safe?

This is by far the most controversial part of this subject. While the answer is sometimes yes, providing your map has been done by someone reliable, it’s highly unlikely to cause issues. Any reliability issues will come from the same thing that gave performance remapping a bad reputation; people doing it badly.

OEMs have ECU tunes that include ‘burbles’ that are reliable and designed to last 100,000+ miles of hard use. Reliability issues stem from a remap being done in an unsafe manner. Usually, they’re too extreme for what the engine can handle, and therefore doing damage.

“We offer more extreme versions of the pops and burbles, but because this requires adding more fuel, you can only have it with a catalyst-free exhaust. There is only so much fuel you can burn off before you poison the catalyst. If it smells of sulphur, it’s dying,” says Stu.

Do pops and bangs damage your engine?

Extreme heat from richer mixtures and heavily retarded ignitions can cause extreme exhaust gas temperatures, which even with a de-cat could possibly damage lambda sensors, exhaust systems, and potentially more.

What are the chances of engine internal damage with one of these maps? If you look at the internet, every man and his pet monkey has a story about a friend of a friend whose uncle has damaged an engine due to this. We’ve yet to find a case where internal damage was definitely proven to be caused by the pops and bangs mapped in to the ECU.

Certain engines have relatively weak exhaust valves – Renault F4Rs, for example, and these maps have been blamed for damaging them quite a few times. Hard used versions of these engines often end up with the same valve damage, regardless of the map, so it’s still speculation rather than proof.

Again, speaking to the guys at Motorsport Developments, Kenny has seen cars come in to their shop with quite extreme ‘crackle map’ tunes done elsewhere, with 30-degrees of ignition retard and quite rich fuelling. This is verging on the settings you’d use on an anti-lag system, albeit only happening for a few seconds at a time on a map like this. This certainly isn’t something they’d recommend on a typical engine, and would cause really high EGTs during the ‘crackle’ period. It, therefore, has more potential for damage to be caused. But still, they’ve never personally seen engine internals damaged from this.

Should you get a pop and bang map?

Some people love pop and bang maps, while others hate them as they feel they create ‘fake’ noise. But if you want one, there’s no reason to believe your engine will be destroyed if you do things correctly. There’s still a lot of debate about this, but try as we might, we’ve seen no proof at all.

This is the important bit though – you need to ensure you have the right set-up for your engine. Do you have a cat, or an engine with a known weak point in the exhaust system or exhaust valves? If so, you’d be advised to keep it to a sensible, almost OEM-style burble.

But regardless of your set-up, choose your tuner wisely. Find someone who will ensure it’s reliable and safe for your particular set-up and chosen use. Pops and bangs are fun, but an engine that isn’t broken is even more fun. Don’t just go for someone who promises the craziest, loudest fireworks display from your exhaust – that’s just asking for trouble.

Words: Stav. Thanks to: Motorport Developments for all of the info and advice.

For more info on exhaust systems, check out the best car exhaust brands on sale.

The post Pop and Bang Maps Guide: Should You Get One? appeared first on Fast Car.

Following the success of the first-generation R53 Cooper S, which went on sale a year after the One and Cooper in 2002, Mini thankfully didn’t make buyers wait as long for its replacement, as it was one of the first models available from November 2006. As with the standard R56, the fastest second-generation Mini ( until the John Cooper Works came along later), was more of a clever rework than a new model. Outside, legislation dictated an 18mm taller shoulder line, but this is also 60mm longer, equaling an extra 10-litres of boot space.

The biggest change was under the bonnet, as the supercharged Tritec 1.6-litre petrol was replaced by a turbocharged version of the Peugeot/Citroen(PSA)-supplied ‘Prince’ N14 1.6-litre engine. At launch, the Cooper S boasted 175hp and up to 192lb ft of torque, thanks to the clever ‘overboost’ function, where for a short period the turbo boosts above normal pressure.

The result was acceleration to 62mph that took just 7.1 seconds. Yet, despite the performance, features such as the BMW VANOS system resulted in a combined consumption figure of 40.9mpg, broadening the Mini Cooper S R56 appeal to hot hatch buyers that hadn’t considered it before.

John Cooper Works Mini R56

With over 170hp, the Mini Cooper S R56 was quick out of the box, but it wasn’t long before John Cooper Works (JCW), now under Mini control, had a performance kit available for the new car.

Launched in 2007, like the R53, it included a different exhaust, airbox and ECU, resulting in a power hike to 192hp and 199lb ft of torque. A rare kit, this was maybe because of the high price and the incoming full-production JCW model.

Thankfully for owners, aftermarket specialists have worked on a number of replacement parts for the R56, with big 400hp+ builds now possible. We take a look at some of those options in our quick-fire Mini Cooper S R56 tuning guide.

First, make sure you check out our R56 buyer’s guide if you’re looking to buy one of these mighty little pocket rockets.

Mini Cooper S R56 Engine Tuning

Despite the R56 Cooper S’s engine failings, it does respond very well to tuning. The simplest way to release more power is via a remap. Prices start from £360 at specialists and can equal up to 40hp more from Stage 1, depending on the other modifications fitted. Although, if you go as far as a Stage 3 tune, you’ll have to fit an uprated intercooler, turbo, de-cat and/or high-flow sports exhaust and induction kit – but the result could be up to 300hp.

If your thirst is for this level of power from your R56 Cooper S, it’s worth considering forging your Mini’s engine internals, although this is expensive, with kits costing around the £5k-mark. If you go to Stage 3 you’ll need a hybrid turbo, which, again, is an expensive modification at over £2000. A cheaper alternative for a lesser tune is to fit a JCW turbo, but this is still costly at over £1000 new, although second-hand they are half that price.

Affordable Engine Modifications For The Mini Cooper S

If you’re not keen on going so far or spending so much, more affordable bolt-on items such as induction systems will still see power gains. Even just a panel filter can give a few more horses, or if you’re looking for an OEM solution, an airbox from a JCW will fit, with prices starting at  £120 second-hand. The extra performance will create more heat, especially for mapped cars, so an aftermarket front-mounted intercooler will cool the boosted air from the turbo, equaling more power and torque, with prices at specialists starting at £350.

No less important is the exhaust, which can be easily improved with the better system from a JCW. This is quite cost-effective, with prices starting at around £250. You can go further, with a simple resonator delete, that increases the pops and bangs from the exhaust, so loved by owners, or more seriously a Sports cat, although at over £800, you’ll need deep pockets.

Brakes and Suspension Tuning

A set of decent brake pads will improve the stopping power, but an easy and cost-effective upgrade is a set of Brembo JCW calipers, with used prices starting at around $/£500 for a second-hand set. Given the popularity of the R56 as a platform for modifying, there are plenty of other aftermarket options too, such as the AP Racing big brake kit seen above (£1600).

Suspension is another key area of improvement – lowering springs start from around £150 and will sort the stance. Or, if you want to go further, decent sets of coilovers start at about £650. A wheel and tire upgrade can make a big difference to the looks, either OEM or aftermarket depending on budget.

Interior and Exterior Mods

Elsewhere, Mini’s OEM Aero kit, which was fitted to the JCW and GP still looks good, especially when combined with a rear wing, such as the GP-like Orranje G-Wing.

Inside, the Cooper S’s sports seats are both comfortable and supportive but can be easily upgraded if you want to, with a set of buckets, the cheapest costing from around £200.

Verdict

With prices for the first-generation R53 Cooper S’s on the increase due to their almost classic status, the R56 Cooper S now seems great value, as long as you’re aware of the N14 turbo engine’s issues, while its tuning potential makes it very appealing.

Despite its faults, the engine is easily repairable, and with a plentiful supply of second-hand performance parts and upgrades, you can increase the power reasonably cost-effectively. The Mini Cooper S R56 still looks stylish, is fun to drive, even as standard, but more so when tuned, and yet is more affordable to run. No wonder it remains so popular.

Guide from Performance Mini magazine. Words: Martyn Collins. Photos: Matt Andrews, DJM Photography, Ethan Haynes, Kirill Samarits, Jason Dodd.

If you love Minis then why not check out our premier Trax event? We’re organising a special Mini Zone for all Mini owners to be a part of. Check out more information about the Mini Zone here. 

The post Mini Cooper S R56 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Retro. Vintage. Classic. Basically, anything old seems cool these days and the same goes for old aftermarket wheels. With everybody getting wrapped up in the whole nostalgia thing, it’s no wonder people are going mad for retro wheels, too. With that in mind, we thought it would be a good idea to highlight our top 20 Retro Wheels to get your creative juices flowing and point you in the right direction if you’re in the market for a set yourself.

What wheels are cool at the moment?

Secondhand and ancient race wheels in particular are the hot ticket right now, and if you can find a set of sought after classics there’s a good chance you’ll be able to turn a tidy profit if you carry out a sympathetic restoration and flog ‘em targeting the right audience.

With firms popping up left, right and center that specialize in locating and restoring unheard of relics from motorsport’s past, there’s every chance something special awaits on a popular internet auction site or one of the many Facebook groups around.

Best Retro Wheels

Enough chat, here’s some of our faves featuring some of the rarest, strangest and coolest rims around…

BBS Magnesium ‘E’ Code Retro Wheels 

Magnesium motorsport derived split rims from the BBS range are fetching ridiculous sums of your hard earned these days and they come in all shapes and sizes. E30, E48, E50 E55 etc. – if you know the number you’re after, be prepared to go and see your bank manager to bolt them to your ride. Go center-lock for proper baller status… This one had to feature in our best retro wheels piece.

Tech spec:

Available in: 13-17in diameter (Can be stepped up). Various widths, off-sets and centre bores. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Magnesium alloy. Colors available: BBS Gold

Where to buy: Try BBS Racing

Revolution 4 Spoke Classic

Revolution’s 4 Spoke Classic has been around for longer than we can remember and is a favorite with the OG Mini folk, although, in our mind these work best on an old-skool Ford. To be fair, these do look amazing on anything retro, especially with body-colored centers. The single-piece variants are still available to buy today and despite only coming in four-stud, 13” fitment, are available in a huge numbers of widths, PCDs and off-sets. If you’re after the modular version (once favored by the National Hot Rod guys) for extra brownie points, then eBay is the best place to begin your search.

Tech spec:

Available in: 13in diameter. 5.5-10in widths. 4×88.9 – 4×114.3 PCD. ET -38 to +19 offset. Various centre bores available. Weight: 4-5.9kg. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Matt Black with Diamond rim.

Where to buy: Revolution Wheels

Votex (Porsche Design) Four Spoke Retro Wheels

Favored by the aftermarket water-cooled VW scene, this was one bizarre Porsche design collaboration that resulted in a world-famous four-spoke wheel of questionable origins. Produced by Speedline, 15- and 16in versions are available – if you can find a set – and they even produced a matching three-spoke steering wheel with similar-style spokes. Yep, this one had to feature here in our best retro wheels piece.

Tech spec:

Available in: 15-16in diameter. 7in widths. 4×100 – 5×100 PCD. ET 36 offset. 57.1 centre bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Silver.

Where to buy: Discontinued. Try eBay.

Porsche Teledial / Fuch / Design 90 Retro Wheels

Choose one of the classic 80/90’s Porsche wheels, slap on some PCD adapters and low-profile rubber and away you go! The classic Teledial, Fuch (pictured) and Design 90 wheels were found on models such as the 911, 944 and 928 and they all had a high, positive offset (in a 5×130 PCD), so there’s a good chance they’ll work with your car given the right adapters. Light, strong and still readily available on the eBay for not much cash, these make great winter wheels or polish them up and hit the show ground. Just look out for replicas, some are good but many are bad…

Tech spec:

Available in: 14-17in diameter. 5.5-9in widths. 5×130 PCD. ET 52.3-55 offset. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: Discontinued. Try eBay.

Banded Steels

A relatively cheap way to get noticed, with a real OEM look. Eternally cool on older vehicles ever since car modification began, right back to the Hot Rod days. The recent uprising of the banded steel has taken a hold particularly on the VW and Ford scenes. 15in G60 steels and 17in T5 steels are often increased in widths up to and beyond 10-inches wide and painted in lairy colors to transform the hum drum into the hell yeah! We’ve even seen 18″ space savers banded on Nu Wave cars. The sky is the limited with these…

Tech spec:

Available in: 10-18in diameter (Generally). Various widths, off-sets and centre bores. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Steel (the clue is in the name). Colors available: Any color you like.

Where to buy: Try Banded Steel Wheels

SSR Formula Mesh 

Classic Japanese wheels are generally favored by the drifting Skyline, Celica and AE86 crowd. They smack of old school design cues but will easily look cool on just about anything you could think of, even more modern stuff. The Mesh is still produced to this day in 16, 18 and 19in diameters or you can find smaller stuff second-hand on eBay.

Tech spec:

Available in: 16-19in diameter. 5.5-13in widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. ET -52 to +62 offset. 71.6 – 74.1 centre bore. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Three-piece split-rim. Colors available: Gold, Silver or Titan.

Where to buy: SSR.

TSW Venom

If there’s When TSW launched the Venom back in the late 90s they were such a radical design that they sold like hot cakes. You might laugh, but we reckon these are due another comeback. If you can find a set (eBay is your friend) you’ll get these for next to nothing as almost everyone still seems to hate them. Surely that’s reason enough to give a set a try.

Tech spec:

Available in: 14-18in diameter. 6-8in widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. ET -52 to +62 offset. 71.6 – 74.1 centre bore. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Three-piece split-rim. Colors available: Gold, Silver or Titan.

Where to buy: SSR.

AZEV A Retro Wheels

Once popular with the BMW and VW peeps the timeless five-spoke A soon reached the masses once Euro-look stormed the global modified scene. As with a lot of wheels in this line up, Azev’s A suits both old and new vehicles, and if you search really hard, you may even spot a set of split-rim versions, too. It just had to feature in our list of the best retro wheels.

Tech spec:

Available in: Currently 16-18in diameter. 7.5i-10n widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. ET +13-34 offset. Various centre bores. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Silver.

Where to buy: eBay.

Hayashi Racing Type C Street 

Talk to any retro Japanese car fan worth their salt and they’ll instantly tell you about the Hayashi Racing range of rims, especially the unmistakable Street. If you’re in the market for a retro Hayashi wheel then also look out for the Yayoi and Techno Racing as the most popular designs. They’re so iconic that firms such as Rota have been known to get inspiration from these classics for their own wheel designs.

Tech spec:

Available in: 13-15in diameter. 5.5-8in widths. 4×114.3 to 4×120 PCD. ET 0-+25 offset. Various centre bores. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Silver.

Where to buy: eBay.

Nothelle N-Classic

Seriously cool and controversial, the Nothelle N-Classic is a real Marmite wheel that’s become increasing rare and hard to find these days. Available in a number of Germanic fitments, these 4 and 5-stud PCD wheels have always been popular with the trendy VW peeps and are amongst the coolest retro rims around today. Both 16in and 17in are available, although we have seen these made into three-piece custom splits for mega scene points!

Tech spec:

Available in: 16-17in diameter. 7-8in widths. 4×100 to 5×112 PCD. ET35 offset. 57.1 centre bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Silver.

Where to buy: eBay.

Antera 109 Retro Wheels

Popular on pretty much anything back in the 90s, these days you can really put the cat amongst the pigeons with a set of three spokes. These super-rare rims rank up there with the Saab 9000 Turbo three spokes for rated or hated appeal. Surprisingly, there were quite a few three-spokes available back in the day, but Antera’s 109 has got to be the most sort after, which is why it features in our best retro wheels piece.

Tech spec:

Available in: 16-18in diameter. 7-8.5in widths. 4×100 to 5×112 PCD. ET20-35 offset. Various centre bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Aluminium alloy. Colors available: Silver.

Where to buy: eBay.

Ronal Racing Wheels

Another motorsport favorite, these lightweight (magnesium) multi-piece wheels are gaining in both popularity and price all the time. Used on a number of classic touring car and racing sportscars back in the day, the VW guys have been fitting these to Golf for years. If you can’t find or afford a set, then Ronal still produce the aluminum Turbo monoblock, which is a cool alternative.

Tech spec:

Available in: 13-17in (can step up) diameter. 5.5-12in widths. Various PCDs and centre lock. Various center bores. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Magnesium three-piece split-rim. Colors available: Silver or gold. 

Where to buy: eBay.

OZ Futura Retro Wheels

OZ’s five-spoke Futura is a favorite on the German aftermarket, although it also came as stock on some Lotus Esprits. The timeless design and multi-piece application meant it looked good on anything. It is a modular masterpiece that comes in a huge variety of PCDs, widths, diameters and offsets. Just watch out for the cheap replicas…

Watch the full feature of the modified Porsche Cayman you see photographed above!

Tech spec:

Available in: 16-19in diameter. 7.5-9in widths. 4×100 – 5×130 PCD. Various ETs. Weight: Depends on size. Wheel type: Aluminium three-piece split-rim. Colors available: Silver as stock. 

Where to buy: eBay.

Mad iN 3C

Generally found amongst the Formula Renault race fraternities originally (thought you recognized them, hey?), French firm, Mad iN produce this retro-look 8 spoke in 13-in and four-stud only, but it comes in a variety of widths and off-sets. Racecar aesthetics and show car looks for the absolute win!

Tech spec:

Available in: 13in diameter. 7.5-9in widths. 4×95.25 – 4×114.3 PCD. ET-86 to ET51. Centre bore: 57.1 minimum. Weight: Centre weighs 1.38kg. Wheel type: Aluminium three-piece split-rim. Colors available: A number of colors available. 

Where to buy: Mad In

AutoStrada Modena Retro Wheels

With their large, center-lock look center cap bolt, three-piece construction and five-spoke design, these JDM favorites actually scream Ferrari F40, but actually looks good on any car, especially JDMs. In our mind, it’s best suited to classics like the FC RX-7, though. A staggered 9.5Jx17in front; 10.5Jx17in rear fitment, as seen here on Kohei Miyata’s 350bhp example, will work a treat.

Tech spec:

Available in: 16-17in diameter. 8.5-9.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. various offsets. Wheel type: Three-piece, five-spoke. Colors available: Silver centers.

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

RML Snowflakes 

American firm RML (which stands for Retro Modern Line, if you wondered) have put their own spin an a classic VW wheel. You may remember seeing something similar fitted to the Mk2 Scirocco Scala or Mk1 Golf Clipper, but they were 14s. RML figured people would prefer an updated 15in version and you know what, we think they were right?

Tech spec:

Available in: 15in diameter. 8in widths. 4×100 PCD. ET30. Centre bore: 57.1 minimum. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Flow formed aluminium . Colors available: Machined/black. 

Where to buy: RML

Exip Mega Retro Wheels

Super weird Marmite wheel that never fails to divide opinion. Exip’s Mega is technically a two-spoke wheel, however, because of the way it’s painted, gives the impression of just having a single spoke. If you can actually find a set then chances are it will be a 7×15 in a 4×100 PCD, hence why these are, once again, popular with the water-cooled VW crowd.

Tech spec:

Available in: 14-16in diameter. 7in widths. 4×100 – 4×114.3 PCD. ET35. Centre bore: 57.1 minimum. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast aluminium monoblock. Colors available: Polished with black insert. 

Where to buy: eBay

Nismo GT1 440-R

Tough, timeless and purposeful. If you can find a set, then Nismo’s multi-piece GT1 440-R is arguably our favorite JDM wheel ever. Favored by the Skyline GT-R crew, these look good on any 90s Japanese car. Its simple five-spoke design is great for showing off big brakes and the rarity value with give you kudos for days.

Tech spec:

Available in: 18in diameter. 9.5in widths. 114.3 PCD. ET +14 offset. 66.1mm centre bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Colors available: White centers with polished lip.

Where to buy: Ebay UK

Renault Alpine GTA Turbine Retro Wheels

Turbo-style. Turbo fans. Turbine. All these futurist style are the rage these days and if you look back at the Renault Alpine A series catalogue you’ll find all sorts of mad looking single piece designs. The GTA V6 turbine wheel in particular is a favorite of ours, especially in a staggered fitment. Be careful with some of the earlier metric wheels, though, as you’ll struggle to find tires for them.

Tech spec:

Available in: 15in diameter. 6 and 8.5in widths. 4×100 PCD. ET20 and ET40. Centre bore: 60.1. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast aluminium monoblock. Colors available: Silver. 

Where to buy: eBay

Mazda 121 Koala Retro Wheels

Ahhhh, a Koala. You will all be aware of Ronal’s famous Teddy Bear wheel, and even Michelin got creative with a Michelin Man wheel, but the ladies in your life (can you still say that?) will love a set of Mazda 121 Koala (special edition) wheels. These came as standard equipment on some Mazda 121s. Seriously! We’ve even seen a set converted into split-rims. As if they weren’t unique enough as it was…

Tech spec:

Available in: 13in diameter. 5.5in widths. 4×100 PCD. ET38. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast aluminium monoblock. Colors available: Silver. 

Where to buy: eBay

Where to buy retro wheels?

Get online and try your luck on eBay.co.uk or, better still, even start searching the foreign eBay sites (Germany and Japan are great). Just bung obscure search terms in like racing rims, split rims, multi-piece wheels, old school wheels and try misspelling the name of the wheel manufacturer you’re looking for – you may end up with a bargain. Other sites, like Touring Car Spares and Race Cars Direct are great for racing classics!

The post Best Retro Wheels: The Coolest Car Rims Of All Time appeared first on Fast Car.

If there’s one car that epitomises the modern fast Ford tuning scene, it’s a bright orange Ford Focus ST Mk2. When it arrived in 2005, the ST225 (as it soon became dubbed thanks to its 225PS/222bhp turbocharged engine) brought some much-needed performance credentials to the second-generation Focus. Its playfulness, endless grunt, and the sheer fun factor of driving one secured its immediate hit status.

It wasn’t just a hit with buyers either, but with the modifying scene too, which soon realized that the Volvo-sourced five-cylinder could dish out much more than factory 222bhp. That coincided with the arrival of OBD-port tuning, allowing owners to remap the car from the comfort of their own driveway, and on the Ford Focus ST Mk2 it yielded particularly impressive results of 40-to-50bhp gains.

This was coupled with the fact that many tuners had already seen great success with the same engine in fast Volvos, and it didn’t take long before UK companies seized on the information available and were able to offer significant power upgrades, almost overnight. Something of a performance tuning arms race began at once; tuners and specialists all had STs on their fleets of demo cars, and new performance tuning products came to the market seemingly every week.

Growth in tuning potential

At first, simple bolt-on mods gave the factory power a boost to around 300bhp, but it wasn’t long before full builds and bigger turbos were emerging.

Then, Ford Focus ST Mk2 tuning took another leap forward in 2009 when the RS model arrived. Based on the same second-generation Focus platform as the ST, the RS offered factory-fit upgrades that delivered over 300bhp, with the potential for more. So much more.

Today, tuners and owners are continuing to develop performance upgrades, and there’s an abundance of interior and exterior styling options to make your ST truly unique.

There’s a reason the Focus ST225 is still so popular in the fast Ford scene; little else offers anywhere near the driver satisfaction and immense tuning potential. And, with prices at an all-time low, now is the time to buy, tune, and, most importantly, enjoy one of the greatest fast Fords ever built.

Here’s our modifying tips on how to make your Mk2 Focus ST faster.

Ford Focus ST Mk2 Engine Tuning

The growling turbocharged five-pot found in the Mk2 ST has become the signature soundtrack for a generation of fast Fords. While the same basic layout has been proven to produce very big numbers (over 1000bhp has been achieved on numerous occasions), the stock ST engine does need some TLC to get the best out of it.

Engine Strengthening

If you’re planning on any future performance engine tuning, or just to drive your ST with some spirit, then one of the first modifications you should be looking at is the fabled block mod. The aluminum block has steel liners, which have been well documented for cracking or splitting – even at factory levels of tune. The cure for a cracked liner is a new block (and you might as well go for an RS block if that happens), but if yours is in good health the much talked-about block mod is a great preventative measure.

It was all top-secret stuff at the time, but the block mod is effectively nothing more than a series of precise shims inserted in between the cylinders to prevent any unwanted movement causing the liners to crack. There are plenty of tuners offering the block mod, so it’s something that should be high on your list of priorities if you plan any further tuning, or purely for peace of mind.

ECU Remap & Supporting Mods

That said, generally speaking the first stages of tune should be okay on a stock block. A first-level software upgrade will take power to around 260bhp, and thanks to the ST’s OBD port you can upload a remap from the comfort of your own driveway.

Add some hardware upgrades to improve the breathing restrictions of the standard car (air filter, intercooler, exhaust) and 300bhp is easily within reach. You’ll want an uprated breather (the stock breather is prone to problems anyway) and will also need to relocate the ECU if you’re fitting an induction kit.

Beyond this, you really need the aforementioned block mod, or you’re asking for trouble.

Focus RS Parts

Now you’re knocking on the door of RS power levels, and the next step up involves robbing big brother of some of its components – a cost-effective way of upgrading if you can find an RS owner who has just upgraded themselves and has second-hand RS components for sale.

A set of bigger RS injectors and a stronger actuator on the turbo will yield around 340bhp, which is getting close to the limits of the stock ST rods and pistons. RS internals will safely see you into the 400s, and you’ll need the RS’s BorgWarner turbo to get you there too.

Most people consider around 420bhp as the limit for OE RS stuff, after which point you’ll end up on the same upgrade path as for the legit RS models. This includes fully forged rods and pistons, lairy cams, bigger valves, ported cylinder head, larger injectors and an even bigger turbo – all of which will see you well into the 500bhp range.

Engine Management/ECU

But it doesn’t stop there these days. One of the biggest leaps forward in ST tuning was the introduction of plug-and-play engine management systems. These allow tuners to remove the potentially troublesome MAF sensor and replace it with a MAP sensor instead, which is better suited to high-boost, big-power engines.

Modern aftermarket ECUs also allow tuners to take full advantage of tricks such as flex-fuel (various different ethanol/methanol fuel blends), clever torque limiting strategies (that means big-power 700-to-1000bhp cars can still put the power down effectively), and all manner of modern electronic trickery that helps the engine produce power reliably and controllably. It really is a case of how far do you want to go?

Transmission upgrades

The Ford Focus ST Mk2 came with the ultra-tough Getrag M66 six-speed gearbox; it’s the same unit shared with the RS and we all know how much power they can take without fuss. Therefore, providing it’s all in good health, there’s not much you need to concern yourself with for most applications.

Clutch & Flywheel

You will, though, need to look at clutch upgrades for anything other than a first-stage remap. Thankfully the RS’s clutch and flywheel assembly is a direct, factory upgrade and is more than enough for most road-going STs, capable of holding 400-to-450bhp without too many dramas.

But genuine RS parts aren’t cheap, and for similar money you could also get various upgrades, ranging from beefier organic clutches, through to various paddle clutch designs, or even twin-plate setups. Speak to your tuner to discuss which is the best option for your intended use.

The original rubber lower torque mount will be perished and split by now, so a stiffer polyurethane upgrade is a no-brainer. Many ST owners also like to fit a short-shift kit, with a current trend towards fitting entire shifter towers from the likes of CAE, which also have a visual impact on the interior as well as a positive shifter action.

Limited Slip Differentials

One thing the ST’s M66 does lack is the factory-fitted Quaife ATB (£808) found in the RS, so a proper limited-slip diff upgrade is a worthwhile investment – especially for big-power cars or those driven hard regularly on track.

Of course, the Quaife offers an OEM-style upgrade, but there are plenty of fit-and-forget solutions such as similar torque-biasing solutions from Wavetrac (£1392), Blackline and M Factory. These are ideal for most fast-road and occasional track day cars, but if you’re looking from something a bit more track-focused then a plated-type diff from Gripper or 3J Driveline might be up your street. Plated diffs are generally considered a bit harsh for regular road use, but are well suited to hard track abuse.

Speaking of which, if you want the ultimate in ST transmissions then look at the Quaife QKE45Z sequential gearbox. It’s not cheap (prices start at £5750, but rapidly increase when you add extras such as super-finished gears, gear indicator displays, and oil breathers) but it is a direct replacement for the M66 and will transform the way you drive the car, regardless of the power it has.

Ford Focus ST Mk2 Suspension Tuning

The first thing you need to ask yourself when it comes to suspension, is ‘what do I want from the car?’, as your answer will influence your choices.

Is it all about the lows at shows? Then a custom air-ride kit is probably the way to go to achieve a show-stopping stance but still remain useable on the road.

Lowering Springs & Dampers

For most, though, the first step to improving the ST’s suspension is a basic set of lowering springs, which you can source for less than a couple of hundred quid – even for top-quality parts.

Even better is to couple the lowering springs with a set of matched dampers. Something like Bilstein’s B12 kit £704) is perfect for a road-going ST, improving handling, roadholding and ride height all without sacrificing ride comfort for daily use – it’s a factory-quality, fit-and-forget upgrade.

Coilovers

Of course, you might not want to forget, and if you like the odd track day or two you might want the ability to tinker with the settings to find the perfect balance to suit your car and driving style.

In that case, a set of coilovers is probably the answer. Coilovers range from budget options at about $/£500 right through to race-spec three-way adjustable units at over £5000. Most ST owners won’t be looking at either extreme; instead, quality kits like KW’s Variant 3s (£2152) and Bilstein’s B16 (£1550) will give the perfect mix of on-track performance but without rendering the car unbearable for regular road use, to hit that sweet-spot between road and track. Going much lower than a 25mm drop should be accompanied by adjustable top mounts to dial out excessive negative camber.

Peripheral Suspension/Chassis Mods

The Ford Focus ST Mk2 also responds well to a set of uprated anti-roll bars. Many are adjustable with different mounting points for drop-links altering the effective stiffness of the bar; start at the softest setting and work up from there.

Finally, a full set of poly bushes for the ST will cost around £600, and make a notable improvement on road and track cars alike. The beauty with these is that you can do them one pair at a time when funds allow, and they also replace worn-out rubber bushes with something that gives genuine performance benefits and will never wear out again, It’s a no-brainer when your standard bushes inevitably fall apart.

The ST tends to suffer badly on the front wishbones, which take massive stress during gearchanges. The stock bushes are oil-filled and prone to splitting from as low as 12,000 miles, so even if the rest of your ST is completely standard, you should still look to fit a set of polyurethane bushes in the front wishbones.

Ford Focus ST Mk2 Brake Tuning

The ST has 320mm discs at the front as standard, which are pretty big for a road car. A decent set of pads is the first step at around $/£150-250, and when coupled to performance discs, decent fluid and braided lines, provide enough stopping power for most road-going STs.

Of course, for track cars and those looking for the pose-factor, there are plenty of big brake kits available from the likes of AP Racing, PB Brakes, Tarox and K-Sport; Collins Performance even offers a kit using the Brembos from the Mk3 Focus RS as a cheaper alternative.

Prices range from about £1200-£3000 depending on exact spec.

Wheels & Tires

The stock ST alloys are heavy, and people have fitted them to everything from Mondeos to Transit Connects. Ditch them in favor of some lightweight motorsport rims for a reduction in unsprung weight, better brake cooling, and better style too.

Stock sizes are 8x18in with a high offset of ET52.5, but there’s room to reduce this to around ET40. Even an increase to 8.5in width will fit with an ET40-42 offset without causing any issues. Of course, if you’ve fitted one of the wide-arch kits available for the ST, you can go even wider and more aggressive on the offset.

As for tires, fit cheap and nasty rubber at your peril. Why undo all that hard work with chassis and performance tuning by fitting a cheap set of boots? Stick on some quality treads from a reputable brand and enjoy your ST’s full potential.

Interior Modifications

The ST came with cloth or leather Recaros depending on spec, and while there’s nothing wrong with them at all, they simply aren’t as nice as the Sportster CS shell seats found in the later RS. You can make these fit an ST with relative ease, and they improve the look and feel of the cabin no end – plus offer a more supportive driving position for any track or spirited fast-road driving.

Some owners like to remove the rear seats, and often add a roll cage (either a real one or a cage just for show) for that clubsport vibe.

Exterior

The ST looks good in standard trim (many owners like to keep things just as the factory intended), but subtle additions like splitters, lowline kits, bonnet vents and spoiler extensions give a stealthy hint of aggression while in keeping with the OEM-plus vibe.

But go to any Ford show during the summer and you’ll notice that the ST is merely a blank canvass for you to express your personality, and you can go as crazy as you like; wide arch kits and WRC-inspired wings and bumpers are all readily available to give the Focus an adrenaline shot, while many owners tend to top these off with custom wraps to really stand out from the crowd.

Photos: Ade Brannan.

Get your Mk2 Focus ST tuned and ready to display at our premier Ford Fair and FordFest events! Want to test its new limits? There are track time session available at both Silverstone (Ford Fair) and Mallory Park (FordFest). Secure your ticket today! 

The post Ford Focus ST Mk2 (ST225) Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The story of the Ford Cosworth YB engine starts long before the arrival of the Sierra Cosworth in 1985. Although that was the first time we saw it in all its road-going glory, the tale starts at the end of the 1970s.

Ford Cosworth YB Engine History

Despite dominating circuit racing and rallying throughout the 1970s, Ford’s grip on motorsport was loosening, and fast. Even the mighty DFV Formula One engine was losing out to modern turbocharged units.

The misery was blatant during a Ford VIP visit to the 1983 British Grand Prix at Silverstone, where a touring car battle supported the main event. Dismayed Blue Oval bigwigs Stuart Turner and Walter Hayes witnessed a series of Capris being humiliated by V8 Rover SD1s, with only Richard Longman’s class-winning Escort RS1600i easing the pain.

Turner and Hayes agreed a plan of action. This coincided with a tour of Cosworth’s premises in the company of American Blue Oval bosses Ed Blanch and Jim Capolongo. Yes, the aim of the visit was to check out the firm’s forthcoming Formula One engine. But how could they ignore a Pinto/T88 bottom end equipped with an aluminum, 16-valve cylinder head, which accidentally-on-purpose found itself the center of attention…

By the autumn of 1983, Cosworth went ahead with SOHC Pinto/T88 cylinder block based 2.0-litre engine. However, unlike the original naturally-aspirated conversion, this time it would include a turbo. It also needed to produce 180bhp in road trim and more than 300bhp when race-tuned.

But when it was found that 200bhp-plus was easy to achieve for road cars, this was also agreed. Experience later proved that race engines could produce up to 350bhp with relative ease. However, the big leap to 550bhp came with the RS500-style YBD power unit in 1986.

YBD Cosworth Engine

Initially coded YAA (YB, the production version came later – see Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes), Mario Illien designed the original Pinto/16-valve conversion in 1983. It featured a very free-breathing cylinder head, a complex inlet manifold and long, tubular exhaust manifold; optimized for tuning to a 300-to-400bhp race engine – with full-throttle breathing in mind. Not much thought to drivability or refinement.

By the time ex-Weslake/ex-Lotus engineer Paul Fricker joined Cosworth at the end of 1983, Illien had left. Ford had by then awarded Cosworth a contract to complete the engine. It could also build a facility to produce at least 15,000 units.

This meant a complete redesign of the engine to make it suitable for road use. The conversion from race to road engine was never easy, and Fricker was always under pressure from Cosworth and Ford.

First there was the original contract of 15,000 engines. “At one time Ford talked of ending the project after the first 5000, but luckily they never did,” said Fricker.

Then there were changes with the fueling system. Originally contracted to Bosche, later went to Weber-Marelli of Italy following good experiences in F1. “There, we had three people who were working for just two clients – Ferrari and us,” said Fricker.

And then a load more work went into re-specifying the turbo. Fricker continued, “We did 400-to-500 hours on the performance test beds at Cosworth. The first time we put one on the durability bed, it lasted just 35 minutes before it blew up.”

The first YBA prototype started test-bed work in Northampton in June 1984. Although, the first engines and test cars didn’t go to Weber-Marelli in Italy until September 1984. Subsequently completed and signed off by mid-1985.

Compared with the basic Pinto, almost everything changed except for the cylinder block itself. This included new cylinder head and valve gear, new steel crankshaft, rods, pistons, and sump. The use of hydraulic valve lifters was a given. No subsequent engine tuner appears to have suffered from not being able to use conventional lifters.

“They did weigh more,” Fricker admits, “and there was always a small amount of air in the oil. We ended up changing the design so they couldn’t deflate overnight. On the original engine, if you had a hot engine, then left it parked for a week, the lifters would go down.”

Cosworth built a new factory at Wellingborough; series production started in 1985 and ended in 1995. Along the way, the YBB evolved. For the Nineties, the big change was to redevelop the engine for use in the EsCos, originally as YBT and (from 1994) as YBP. The YBT engine might have looked similar, but had advanced in various ways. This was notably with a hybrid T03/T04B Garrett turbocharger. It was really too big for road cars, but Ford Motorsport needed a large enough unit homologated to make the Escort Cosworth the rally winner it became.

Blue painted cam covers instead of the Sierra Cosworth 4×4’s green identify the YBT. Paul Fricker explained: “We needed yet another color, and we thought it looked nice. We didn’t consult Ford Design until it was too late to get into an artistic argument.”

With 227bhp at 6250rpm, the YBT engine was extremely flexible. Naturally it ran on unleaded fuel, and an exhaust catalyst was standard. Finally, in 1994, the YBT gave way to the YBP.  This one had a smaller T25 turbo, Ford’s EEC-IV electronic engine management, and a restyled camshaft cover. It was more drivable, just as potent, and visually smarter than ever.

In an 11-year life at Wellingborough, it made something like 39,000 YB-based engines. It’s still very much the stalwart of the fast Ford scene to this day.

Ford Cosworth YB Tuning Guide

Cosworth Engine Block

There are two main types of Cossie block – known as the 205 and the 200. The latter is a thicker-wall design and was found in 4×4 versions, such as the Escort and 1990 Sapphire. These are easily identified by the numbers cast on the side. Although, to confuse things further, the RS500 block was a thick-wall design but stamped 205.  It’s recognizable by its smaller core plugs.

If you want moderate power up to around 350-to-400bhp then either is fine. Although good quality fasteners and gaskets are a must for any YB block. But for anything more powerful you should ideally be starting out with the 200 block. The extra material within the block, in particular at the base of the cylinders, makes fitting long studs rather than head bolts an option. This can help improve the sealing between head and block, and ultimately aiding reliability.

For most engines sub-500bhp, six long studs will be adequate. The center six, with the closest and furthest fixing retaining the original length bolts or studs. But mega-power engines (or those used in harsh race conditions) will usually feature all ten long studs. This is to allow for even more clamping force. This requires additional machining; the water pump needs modifying to avoid clipping the newly fitted studs at the front end.

Liners

Along with long studs, almost all big-power YBs will feature Nikasil-coated steel liners. These are stronger, have better oil control, and offer less friction than the original bore.

There are two types of liner: dry or wet. Dry liners are 3mm thick and are sleeved into the original bore. Wet liners are thicker at 6mm. They are so-called because the extensive machining to get them to fit means none of the original bore remains and the new liner encroaches into the block’s waterways.

Liners and studs are not cheap, though – a fully prepared block will set you back thousands. These days we can also start throwing alloy block options into the mix, which are as strong as the 200 blocks, if not stronger, but are considerably lighter. Smith & Jones Engineering offers alloy blocks in varying bore sizes from standard 90.82mm up to a whopping 96mm, which are available with different deck heights for those looking to lengthen the stroke too.

Working with a new block like this, ARP/Smith & Jones also offer a new ‘though-stud’ design of head stud, which as the name suggests is a stud and nut design that passes all the way through the block and into the crankshaft main caps, therefore tying the whole engine together from top to bottom.

Costing around £3500 for a bare block (before you add options like piston cooling jets at £150, and the through studs at £650) they’re normally reserved for the biggest of builds and aren’t commonly found in road cars. But they are the foundation for some of the most powerful YB engine builds we’ve seen.

Cosworth Engine Internals

The factory internals of the YB are actually very good, especially the stock cast steel rods (much better than most OEM cast iron rods) are proven to cope with 500bhp. The only criticism is that they are a bit on the short side. Therefore, to free up a bit more power (as much as 10bhp in some cases), many tuners opt to fit longer con-rods – usually 136mm as opposed to the standard 128mm items.

Doing so makes the rod angle more favorable, meaning that when the crank rotates, the rod doesn’t travel through such a steep angle and forced out of the cylinder wall, but is instead being pushed upwards into the cylinder.

The stock crankshaft is also very capable as standard – it can cope with most things thrown at it and is only really changed when stroking the engine to a larger displacement. There is one caveat, though – if it has been ground down a size or two it’s best suited to sub-350bhp applications. With the prices of standard-grind cranks on the rise (we’ve seen sellers asking as much as £1500), the price gap between a second-hand original and a new aftermarket item is ever decreasing.

Pistons

YB pistons are particularly well engineered as standard, and work well on 400bhp engines many times over. But when altering the compression ratio or using valve cut-outs (needed for engines running anything more aggressive than BD10 cams) the machining costs can add up. Therefore, many engine builders opt for a set of forged pistons made to their exact required specification instead.

On the subject of compression ratios, 7.5:1 and 7.2:1 used to be the norm in high-boost applications. But with the advent of better engine management, improved gasket designs, and greater clamping force offered by stud-and-nut kits, many tuners are taking advantage of them to maintain a higher compression ratio – in some cases actually increasing it from the standard 8.0:1 to over 9.0:1.

Cosworth Turbo and Exhaust

The turbo dominates the YB like a massive chili on a tiny pizza. Many people think it is the business end of the engine. In reality, it is just another component part of the entire YB package. As such, needs to be carefully considered to work with everything else in the engine when tuning.

The standard Garrett T3 found on the Sierra and Sapphire Cosworth is good enough to see you with around 300bhp, and specialists like Turbo Performance can make use of tricks like cut-back blades, and 360-degree thrust bearings to help improve performance of the OE unit.

But the traditional upgrade is the Escort Cosworth’s larger T34 turbo, capable of 350-to-400bhp with the right optimisation. Because they are all based on the same Garrett T3 core, specialists like Turbo Performance can actually pick-and-mix housings to create a T34 with the T3’s smaller 0.48 exhaust housing, for example, to provide greater peak power than a stock T3 but with less lag than a stock T34.

From there a T38 hybrid will see you well into 400bhp power figures, and an even bigger T4-based turbo from the RS500 will take you the rest of the way up to 500bhp.

Newer turbos

These upgrades work time and again with great results, but with the development in technology and newer turbos now available, the choice has opened up even further. Garrett’s roller-bearing GT range of turbos have been used to great effect on the YB, and the new BorgWarner EFR series of turbos are showing very impressive results in terms of power and, thanks to their twin-scroll design, driveability and quick spool-up too.

With so many options available, turbo choice is virtually endless, and it is best left to the experts to decide what will work best for a given application.

The good news, though, is that the YB’s exhaust manifold is of a twin-scroll design as standard, so is ready to accept a twin-scroll turbo without too much fuss. Bigger turbos often require a larger mounting flange, however, so it’s often worth upgrading to a tubular exhaust manifold at the same time. Doing so also makes installation of an external wastegate easier too, which many tuners prefer over the OEM-style internal wastegate, to offer more accurate boost control.

Cosworth Engine Inlet and Injectors

On the opposite side of the engine to the turbo, inlet manifold choice has also improved drastically over the years. To start with, the RS500 eight-injector manifold was a must, then the ‘Swedish-style’ inlet was everyone’s fancy, and now nearly all big-bhp YB builds feature a Hart inlet.

There are slight differences in performance between them, but all that really matters is that they all perform much better than the standard inlet, which becomes a restriction at around 500bhp. Roller-barrel throttles have also been used to good effect in many applications, but as they were only ever designed to work on 300bhp WRC cars, when you start to push enough air for over 500bhp through them they don’t always like it. Another option is to fit a set of individual throttle bodies. Used with a plenum chamber, these will have performance advantages. Considering a single throttle body gives such good results, only use when looking to squeeze out every last bhp possible.

Sizing up

The traditional route of replacing injectors was to go for the next size up in the Bosch range. The first step is dark greens or 803s, capable of 300-to-330bhp, costing around £320 as set from trusted sellers such as Motorsport Developments. Continuing up, the colour-coded Bosch items are ‘light-blues’ or 400s, which are good for up to 400bhp, then ‘greys’ or 403s, which supply the juice for 400-to-450bhp.

Sticking with the Bosch injectors but wanting more than 450bhp involves simply adding more of them – another four, in fact. This utilises the RS500’s or WRC-style eight injector setup. Eight greens will provide enough fuel for over 500bhp Eight greys are suitable for ultimate power.

Today, sophisticated modern engine management and improved injector designs mean you can buy items that will deliver over twice as much fuel as a set of greys. As a result, there’s no need to add the complexity and expense of an eight-injector setup. Traditionally, larger injectors were more difficult to control at lower engine speeds. Therefore, two sets of smaller injectors were the preferred method of ensuring low-speed driveability coupled with peak power potential. Now, modern injectors/ECUs are more capable of delivering at both ends of the scale, so offer a neat and simple alternative.

Cosworth Engine Head and Cams

Designed to go racing, the top end of the YB engine is impressive in stock form too. For a stock head, 350bhp is no problem. But at around 500bhp the ports start to become a bit of a restriction. As standard, the inlet ports are 22.5mm and the exhaust ports are 23mm. Opening these up to around 25mm and 24mm respectively will be good enough for 500bhp while retaining standard valve sizes. For even more power, increase the port sizes to 26/27mm and 25/26mm. Remember, you’ll also need bigger valves to make the most of them.

As for camshaft options, this will usually depend on what the engine is built for – there are many off-the-shelf profiles to choose from, and many engine builders have cams ground to their specific requirements too. Top-end engines will be running ‘custom spec’ profiles (closely guarded secrets), and some are so aggressive they actually require the head to be machined in order to fit them; the lobes are so big they physically won’t rotate within the confines of a standard head.

But for 500bhp engines there are plenty of options. Generally, a BD10 inlet with standard exhaust cam is the first-stage upgrade and works well on a variety of engines, but BD14 and BD16 combinations have also been used to good effect, while some tuners swear by the profile offered by an AB07 cam. As with turbo choice, the cam profile needs to be chosen to work with the rest of the engine spec, so leave this to the engine builder to decide.

Ford Cosworth YB Engine Management

Long gone are the days of a simple Stage 3 chip. Nowadays, with massive advances in technology we expect a lot more refinement, even from the standard ECU. Features such as closed-loop lambda control, wasted-spark ignition, and the ability to live map have made big improvements. These are ideal for fast-road applications. On top of these there is now a wealth of standalone, aftermarket ECU systems to choose from. All of which are more than capable of running a YB engine.

It is also worth noting that one major factor in changing to an aftermarket ECU these days is not just because of the additional mapping features, but because it also replaces the standard wiring loom. Something that, now it’s all old and crusty, can cause major problems on a Cosworth. Thankfully, companies like Auto Dynamix offer OEM-style replacement wiring looms, or bespoke items to suit your specific setup.

Modern ECUs also allow tuners to take full advantage of several advances in engine management design since the YB was first introduced; things like coil-on-plug ignition, knock detection and electronic boost control all help aid reliability and performance. While extras such as launch control, full-throttle gear shifts, and anti-lag systems all add to the grin-factor too.

Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes

A Ford Cosworth YB engine is a Ford Cosworth YB engine, right? Wrong. There were actually 20 different versions of the legendary Ford Cosworth YB Cosworth engine over the years, and here’s what they were…

Code              Year              Description

YAA                1983              Original aftermarket naturally-aspirated, 16-valve conversion for Pinto

YAB                1984              First turbocharged version of YAA

YAC                1990              Naturally-aspirated version of YBG for kit cars, with carbs

YBA                1984              Modified version of YAB

YBB                1985              Series-production Sierra Cosworth engine

YBC                1985              Race version of YBB

YBD                1987              Series-production Sierra Cosworth RS500 engine with big turbo

YBE1A           1987              Version of YBB for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

YBE2A           1989              Version of YBG for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

YBF                1987              Race version of YBD/RS500 engine

YBG                1989             ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (US83 emissions)

YBG (GrpN)   1992              Race version of YBG

YBJ                1989              ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (15.04 emissions standards)

YBM               1989              Race version of YBG and YBJ

YBP                1994              Small-turbo Escort Cosworth engine – fitted with EEC-IV management (launched 1994)

YBR                1990              Ford rally engine for use in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4

YBS                1990              Ford rally engine, Group A rally kit, parallel to YBR

YBT                1992              Escort RS Cosworth big-turbo road engine (rally cars also used engine code)

YBT (GrpN)    1992              Race version of YBT engine

YBV                1992              Methanol-fuelled 2.3-litre version of YBM for racing in America

The post Ford Cosworth YB Engine Guide & How To Tune It appeared first on Fast Car.

With so much excitement and disappointment around the A90 Supra, there’s been a natural resurgence in interest for the old A80/Mk4. Of course, for people like us this enthusiasm never went away – we love these things, stock or modified, UKDM or JDM, subtle-and-smooth or big-power-and-boisterous, we’re well into a nineties Supra. So much so that we placed it in our list of the best used cars to buy.

Toyota Supra Mk4 history

At launch, the Toyota Supra Mk4 offered a pair of fresh new engines: the 3.0-litre 2JZ-GE straight-six offered 220bhp, while the twin-turbocharged 2JZ-GTE amped this up to 276bhp. For the export models, Toyota saw fit to pump up the adrenaline a little, adding bigger fuel injectors and smaller steel-wheeled turbos to produce a peak 326bhp.

The holy grail for the UK buyer today is to find a genuine UK TT6; that is, a twin-turbo with a manual six-speed gearbox in full-fat UK spec. Not easy to achieve, but they do exist! Giveaway details are that the UK models had a bonnet scoop and glass headlights instead of plastic.

Check out our guide to tuning the legendary 2JZ-GTE packed full of advice on all power levels. 

Gearbox options

In all markets, the turbo models had the option of the Getrag six-speed manual gearbox. Nat-asp cars made do with the W58 five-speed manual. Although the GT nature of the car means that a lot of them were bought with four-speed automatic transmissions, which does rather dull the fun. That being said, die-hard enthusiasts will claim the automatic model is actually faster than manual cars. While on some occasions that may be true, the moment you start adding extra power will be the moment you wished it was a manual…

Turbos got 17-inch wheels while nat-asps had sixteens, and with either engine you could option a targa Aerotop. The SZ-R, available from 1994, had the option of bigger 4-pot brakes, as did the RZ from 1995. This was also the year that Recaro seats arrived on the option list. A mild facelift in 1996 introduced Sport ABS and made dual airbags standard-equipment, along with revising gear ratios and equipping the RZ with an aluminum radiator.

Turbo models from 1997 had VVT-I along with revised ‘REAS’ suspension, and automatics had Tiptronic gear selection added. The Aerotop was discontinued in 1999, and Supra production ended in July 2002.

Why do people love the Toyota Supra Mk4?

There are a few reasons why enthusiasts love the Toyota Supra Mk4. It shot to fame thanks to its appearances in the Fast & Furious movie franchises, with Brian O’Conner famously picking up a burned example for Dominic Toretto to settle his 10-second car debt. The movies shed light on the extensive aftermarket available for Japanese tuner cars, with the likes of the Mk4 Supra, Skyline and RX-7 sitting on top of that tree. But even before these movies, enthusiasts all over the world had torn the 2JZ engine apart in such of unimaginable power. You see, this engine is one of automotive’s seven wonders. It was only a few years after the Supra arrived that cars were producing over 1000bhp.

It’s lust for more power, the sound it made, coupled with the elegant looks, excellent chassis and arguably the best interior in the business made it a hit. Speaking of that interior, Toyota nailed it. The cabin is angled around the driver, like in a fighter jet cockpit. After all, there’s only one driver, and therefore everything should be angled towards them.

There’s also no forgetting its success on the race track either, and subsequent use in videogames. While the JTCC Supras weren’t powered by the 2JZ engines, they did provide the base for some of the most recongisable liveries in motorsport today thanks to cars taking multiple race wins and titles. Remember that Castrol livery? How could you forget?!

Toyota Supra Mk4 common problems & things to look out for

It’s pleasing to know that Supras are pretty bombproof. Just look out for age-related wear such as warping of the dash top, boot rubbers perishing, and yellowing of the headlights on JDM examples. Naturally, being a 1990s Japanese car, you need to check thoroughly for rust. As a rule, fresh imports are likely to be less rusty than older imports or UK cars.

You should also be careful to check through the history, particularly as very few Supras on the market are factory-standard. If it’s been modified, ensure that it’s been done by competent people with quality parts. There was a time when you could pick up Supras for relative peanuts, and some have been ham-fistedly modded by people who saw The Fast and The Furious and thought ‘how hard can that be?’.

And finally, keep in mind that imported cars will have a 112mph speed limiter. Oh, and of course the easiest way to spot a proper UK car is by its functional bonnet vent, glass headlights and headlamp washer ‘horns’.

Toyota Supra Mk4 prices

It’s very much a case of déjà vu when it comes to Mk4 Supra prices, as like its JDM rivals such as the Skyline GT-R, prices have started to climb as more and more stock, original examples become harder to find. In fact, finding a bone-stock manual TT Mk4 Supra is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. That being said, there are usually a few automatic, non-turbo models on the UK market, with prices starting from around £25,000, but the average price is naturally much higher.

Modified, manual TT examples can be seen for around £40,000+, depending on the level of modification, mileage and condition. We spoke with import and tuning company JM Imports who reckons you’ll need around £50,000+ to get your hands on a manual, twin-turbo Supra. Chances are, though, you’ll be looking at a modified example so do your homework, ask the seller what modifications have been added and who carried out the work, the more provenance the better.

As for the American selection of Mk4 Supras, ropey examples start at closer to $35,000 but on average you can expect to pay between $60-70,000 for a good one. The cream of the crop can fetch extraordinary prices though, extending close to – and sometimes beyond – six figures.

Should you buy a Toyota Supra Mk4?

There are a couple of schools of thought here, but all of them end up with the same answer. If you can afford to buy one at current prices, then yes you should. The Supra is one of those iconic drives that earned a reputation for a reason. Whether in stock, midly tuned or obsencely modified, the Supra will deliver on thrills that few cars can.

With the lust for Japanese classic cars only growing stronger, there’s not much worry of losing money on your investment either, whether you decide to park it up and leave it in a garage or use it.

And if you want to see what all the fuss is about, there’ll be plenty on display at our Classic Japfest event at Goodwood.

Best Toyota Supra Mk4 modifications

We’ve highlighted five modifications below that will enhance your Supra experience. For more details on tuning a Supra Mk4, check out our how to tune a 2JZ-GTE guide. We’ve packed it full of advice on tuning the legendary engine to all power levels.

Exhaust

Price: From $550/£450 (backbox)

The 2JZ responds well to exhaust upgrades (particularly if you throw in a decat), and we reckon Supras only look proper with a huge drainpipe poking out the back! The Blitz Nur Spec-R is a popular choice – buy it here.

Fuel Cut Defender

Price: $150/£130

An essential for modded turbo models, the FCD changes the airflow signal to the ECU to trick it into thinking it never sees more than 1 bar of boost, which is the point where the computer cuts the fuel supply as a safeguard. JDM icons HKS supply an FCD which you can use on your Supra. Buy it here.

Single turbo

Price: $/£ various

If you’re chasing big power (and remember, the stock internals should be good for well over 500bhp), swapping to a big single turbo is always a strong option. Japspeed can set you up with the required conversion gear for around $200/£180, and then it’s just a case of finding a big ol’ snail to hook everything up to. Buy the Japspeed conversion kit here.

Intercooler

Price: $450/£359

A bigger front-mount intercooler is another must for turbo Supras – Japspeed are, once again, the experts here. Click this link to get yours.

Big Brake Kits

Price: From $3600/£2900 for the brands mentioned below. Cheaper (lesser) kits are also available.

The stock brakes are pretty damn good, but you’ll need them to be even better if you’re throwing more power in. Popular big brake kits for the A80 include the Brembo range, or offerings from AP Racing.

The post Toyota Supra Mk4 Buying & Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

SR20DET history

Made famous by its use in the RWD S-Body Nissans, the SR20DET has in fact left the factory in a variety of vehicles over the years. It first appeared on some Japanese-only versions of the Bluebird. Shortly after, it appeared in the better known Pulsar/Sunny GTI-R. These were transversely mounted SR20DETs mated to 4WD transmissions. Thanks to being a homologation special for Group A rallying, the GTI-R versions featured various trick parts such as individual throttle bodies and a larger turbocharger.

From 1991 they started appearing in the Nissan S-body cars. The Silvia S13, S14, and S15 all featured the SR20DET until 2002. It was these cars that made the SR20 world famous within the tuning scene.

The most powerful iteration of the SR20 appeared in 2001, at the end of the Silvia lifespan. Nissan released the X-Trail GT, which featured a special SR20VET engine. Many don’t realize this exists, but it’s by far the most powerful factory SR. It makes 276bhp as standard, and comes with the legendary VVL head. The VVL head is considered to be the Nissan equivalent to Hondas VTEC. These were produced right up until 2007, long after any other SR20 powered vehicle was produced.

There were a number of changes to the SR20DET engine over the years. The most notable were the turbo and injector sizes, and three main cylinder head types. However, the fundamentals are the same, they all have absolutely massive potential, and we’re about to show you how to tune one.

The basics of how to tune an SR20DET

First, it’s worth mentioning that while you don’t have to do these upgrades all at once. However, to save hassle and to maximize performance and reliability, we’d suggest they’re all done in one go.

The mods you should consider here are full turbo-back exhaust system, front mount intercooler, uprated fuel pump and colder spark plugs. The final piece of the puzzle is a boost controller to set the boost to around 15psi. This tends to give the SR20DET between 250 and 280 horsepower depending on your overall setup. The later SR20 versions with slightly larger turbos generally make more power.

This level of tune is generally what the standard ECU map and fuel injectors can cope with. It’s also very near the turbo limit for most versions too. This being said, depending on the car, some may handle more boost than others before hitting the fuel cut limiter. In an ideal world, a ‘Stage1’ chip or remap should be added to these initial mods. However, it’s not vital as long as you keep the boost level below the point where you hit fuel cut.

SR20DET intake tuning

While there are plenty of off-the-shelf induction kits for all SR20DET engine vehicles, these kits generally consist of the air filter and an adapter to bolt it to the MAF sensor. If you’re planning on upgrading the MAF to a Z32 or R35 GT-R version, these standard kits won’t fit. As a result, you’ll need to buy an adapter to suit the MAF sensor of your choice.

Upgrading your MAF sensor is vital if planning to go over around 300bhp using the factory-style engine management. At that level, you will be maxing out the standard sensor limit. Changing to the Z32 MAF from a 300ZX is a good upgrade. A better upgrade is an R35 GT-R MAF. This style of MAF is far more accurate, allowing for a better tune. It’s of a compact design that allows you to fit it to any size pipework you wish. Best of all, it’s widely available brand new and for a low price. In fact, most Nissan remapping specialists tend to have full fitting kits available to convert your SR20DET to a R35 GT-R MAF setup.

The ultimate MAF setup is the PMAS HPX-N1 MAF sensor. It is of a similar style to the aforementioned R35 one, but can read massively more for any given housing size. Even with a relatively small 3inch intake pipe, the PMAS one is capable of around 800bhp!

If you’ve chosen to go to a full aftermarket ECU then things are simplified somewhat as the MAF sensor is no longer used. This means your intake setup purely consists of the air filter and the piping.  While there are no off-the-shelf kits in that case, it’s a very simple setup that you can tailor perfectly to your needs.

Optimum exhaust options

As with the vast majority of turbocharged engines, the standard SR exhaust is a restriction even at light levels of tune. As the exhaust directly after the turbo tends to have the biggest effect, a full turbo-back exhaust system is vital. The first thing to note is, the exhaust fitment is slightly different on every S-body car. An example would be that most S14 (aka Zenki) exhausts do not correctly fit the slightly later S14a (aka Kouki) even though it looks almost the same. Make note what you’re ordering before you hit the buy button!

Thankfully with SRs being so popular, off-the-shelf 3inch exhaust systems are available from countless manufacturers. You have the option of oval downpipes to increase ground clearance on low cars, flex sections, varying amounts of silencers, and of course lots of tailpipe designs.

Like any engine, beyond around 500bhp, arguably sooner, there are worthwhile gains by going to bigger than a 3inch exhaust. This is especially true for the downpipe. While this will tend to be a full custom setup, it’s a relatively simple design that any good exhaust specialist would have no issues working with.

Be sure to check out our guide to the best exhaust brands in 2023. 

SR20DET turbo upgrades

The SR20DET leaves the factory with a variety of turbos depending on model. These vary from the smallest T25s to the T28 on the Pulsar GTI-R. The T28 was surprisingly big as it was fitted with the intention of the power being massively increased for rally use. They’re all pretty much interchangeable as they’re based on the same basic turbo frame size. While the smallest tops out at around 280bhp, the biggest around 330, they’re all good setups with no obvious winner.

Turbo fitment is really where the SR20DET shines. Unlike almost all other factory turbochargers, the SR20 factory turbos share the same footprint as countless common aftermarket turbos. This is especially true for the Garrett 25 and 28 versions of the GT/GTX/G series turbos. As a result, you can bolt on a far bigger turbo than standard with ease, and still use your standard fitment exhaust manifold and downpipe if you wish; even when making well over 400bhp.

If your goals are beyond 400 horsepower, it’s beneficial to go for a non-factory style turbo setup. There are plenty out there to choose from, with Mazworx, JDM Garage, Platinum Racing Products and more doing complete SR20DET big turbo kits. These come complete with all lines and fittings needed to bolt it all on. Most of these kits are designed around the Garrett G-Series turbos. With a G25-550, well over 500bhp has been achieved on an SR20DET while keeping great spool. However, if you want to go bigger, you can do.

As an idea of the extremes, there’s a billet SR20-based engine out there that’s running triple turbos. All of which have giant 88mm inducer compressor units, that has a goal of 3000bhp; even in initial testing it made well over 2000bhp running an insane 135psi boost!

SR20DET ECU tuning

Nissans are relatively rare amongst ‘90s Japanese engines as the standard ECU can be remapped to a surprisingly high level. Even today, many people run this sort of setup on SR20DETs at big power levels.  Some making 500bhp or more. The most common setup to allow this is Nistune. Once adding some additional hardware inside the case, Nistune makes the ECU fully remappable via laptop-based software It’s capable of most of the benefits of a full aftermarket ECU, but cheaper.

The next step up will be a plug-n-play aftermarket ECU that goes directly in to the factory loom. Most come with MAP and wideband Lambda wiring and connections built in and are the common upgrades.

AEM, Haltech, MaxxECU, Link, and many more, do plug-n-play SR20DET setups. Bear in mind the factory wiring loom could be over 30 years old. With most SR20s having lived a hard life, it may be wiser to get a full custom engine wiring loom. Then you can fit the ECU of your choosing with no fitment constraints or reliability issues from old wiring.

When it comes to ECUs, the number one choice should be what your tuner is happiest to use. An ECU they are most comfortable with will likely get the best results. In fact, choosing the correct tuner for your car is even more important than ECU choice. The equipment is only as good as the person who programs it!

As a reference, the insane 3000bhp capable drag SR we mentioned earlier runs a fancy Motec ECU. They are doing so to make use of all the countless inputs, outputs, and other capabilities that ECU has. For most people, even making big power, they only need a fraction of the capabilities even a more basic ECU has. Buy one that suits your needs.

Rocker arm problems!

The only truly fundamental engine weakness of the SR20DET engine is in the valve train. More specifically, the rocker arm and shim design which actuates the valves. It’s perfectly reliable when stock, but with heavily tuned and hard used engines, the shims can come out and rockers can break. At best, it just means that’s the end of your fun until you replace the broken rockers and missing shims. At worst it can hang valves open, sending pistons crashing in to them, damaging the cylinder head, and maybe even requiring a full engine rebuild.

The attempted solutions to this over the years have been numerous, but most haven’t worked particularly well. Rocker arm stoppers put a little pre-load on the rockers when at full extension, which helps prevent it losing contact with the shim. Uprated valve springs help eliminate valve float and improve valve train control, which can help somewhat. Stronger rocker arms exist but that doesn’t solve the root of the issue. Last but certainly not least, not using a violently cutting rev limiter is a good idea to help prevent the valve train losing control.

Thankfully, getting the rocker arms modified for dual guide shims is a more effective solution. This involves some machining to the rocker arms to run two guide shims instead of the OEM setup of one guide shim and one flat shim. It’s the flat shim that causes the problem. With this setup, the rocker arm issue is for the most part solved. The SR head is then no worse than any other comparable head.

The ultimate solution is changing the hydraulic lifters for solid ones to further improve valve control. Or, you could change to the SR20VE VVL head, which runs a totally different valve train design without these issues.

Engine internal upgrades for the SR20DET

The SR20DET has a somewhat undeserved reputation of being unreliable. This is mostly due to the aforementioned rocker arm issue, combined with general old age and use and abuse! In reality a truly fresh and well-tuned SR20DET is usually reliable even at 400bhp on the standard bottom end.

Unfortunately due to their age and life, most SRs are not like this. Even freshly rebuilt engines can often be far from optimal due to re-using many parts which may look ok, but in reality are far less effective than they used to be. Some of the most reliable tuned SR20s we’ve seen are using all new OEM parts rather than rebuilding an old engine with some aftermarket upgrades. Worn oil pumps, clogged oil ports, blocked oil pickup, and even slightly dented sumps restricting the oil pickup are all common things that end up causing engine damage on what on the face of it seems like freshly rebuilt SR20s.

Beyond 400bhp

Beyond around the 400bhp mark even a great condition stock internals engine will be on borrowed time. An upgrade to forged pistons and rods is a wise move. Some, Mazworx for example, recommend strengthening the block at this level by replacing the standard cylinders with Darton sleeves. For a 600bhp+ engine, larger half inch head studs are recommended. Beyond 800bhp, billet main caps and billet crank girdle are a must to try and keep the bottom end in one piece.

While the above setup is rated to around 1000bhp when done correctly, the closer you get to this level and beyond, a full aftermarket billet block from Bullet or Mazworx is the way to go. Proven at well over 2000bhp in conjunction with the VET head, these blocks are made to be totally road and track friendly.

Love Japanese car shows? Be sure to check out our premier Classic Japfest and Japfest Silverstone events. 

The post How To Tune a Nissan SR20DET Engine appeared first on Fast Car.

When it comes to performance variants of the VW Golf Mk8, generally you have the ‘lower output’ GTI version (running the 2.0T EA888 EVO DRNA 240bhp engine) and the ‘higher output’ R model (2.0T EA888 EVO DNFG 316bhp).

When we spoke to the guys at Revo, they told us the main reason they separate the two models is that, unlike the Mk7 GTI and R, the Mk8 variants use turbos produced by totally different manufacturers meaning aftermarket parts – like air intake systems etc. – generally aren’t interchangeable between the two. You have to wonder whether Volkswagen did that on purpose to make life harder for tuners?

Clamping down on ECU tampering

Wolfsburg certainly didn’t want anybody playing around with the car’s engine control unit that’s for sure. As of yet, we’re still to hear of a tuner that has cracked the encryptions on the VW Golf Mk8 GTI/R’s ECU, but that hasn’t stopped global tuners powering on with the development of a whole host of other hardware for the eight generation car in preparation for the software to eventually roll out. I guess that explains what this feature is all about…

BMP Tuning are an impatient bunch and couldn’t wait for off-the-shelf software to become available, so adapted a JB4 piggyback ECU from Burger Motorsports to uncork its GTI’s 2.0T and, with the help of some of the add-ons you’ll find in this VW Golf Mk8 modifications guide, managed to increase power to 321hp and 350lb/ft – making it arguably the most power GTI in North America, if not the world… You can check out BMP’s 321hp GTI here.

321whp BMP Tuning GTI

In terms of software, it’s very much not a case of if but when somebody does eventually crack the code, so this feature will give you an idea of the parts you need to get in place before remapping your ECU and reaping the benefits of the solid foundations you have put in place.

Please note that many firms we spoke to are in the R&D stages of their Mk8 Golf tuning programs, so either have new parts about to launch or very close to production stages. Thankfully, many chassis parts are interchangeable between the MQB Mk7 and the Mk8, meaning many companies are able to offer the same hardware parts from their Mk7 MQB range for the 8th gen. Of course, a few firms have been super efficient and already produce a range of Mk8 specific parts.

While it feels like more than ever the government and car manufacturers in general are trying to prevent us from modifying and personalising our cars, it’s very exciting to see just how many companies are getting involved with VW Golf Mk8 modifications.

All prices were correct at the time of publishing.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications guide – aftermarket specialists

APR

Alabama-based APR took delivery of its VW Golf GTI Mk8 development car late in 2021, and, inevitably, is now deep in the midst of its R&D stages with the vehicle. Not ones to rush things, these guys are methodical when it comes to developing software and hardware for new vehicles so you can expect to see all manner of parts emerging shortly for the latest performance Golfs.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications available:

• APR Carbon fibre intake breather filer: $28.94
• APR Carbon fibre turbo inlet pipe: $186.95
• APR Intercooler system: $992.95
• APR Billet stainless dog-bone insert: $69.49
• APR Roll-control stabiliser bar: $297.95 (front and rear available)
• APR Roll-control front stabiliser bar end links: From $233.95
• APR Ao1 Flow formed wheels (18”-20”): From $330.95

Contact: www.goapr.com

Revo

British tuner, Revo has been at the forefront of VAG tuning for many moons now. It’s Mk8 programme began back in November 2020 after purchasing a GTI demonstrator, so it’s no wonder the range of products it now produces is pretty substantial. It’s worth noting that the guys can also fit these parts at its new TRPC fitting centre. You can check out the firm’s Mk7 Golf R demo car from 2019 here.

Demo vehicle: VW Golf GTI Mk8 (245PS)

• Revo 18” RF018 wheels (8.85kg): £309.60 (19” & 20” available)
• Revo Big Brake Kit: From £2587.57
• Revo Turbo Muffler Delete: £106.80
• Revo Carbon Series Intake: £883.35
• Revo Intercooler: £817.74
• Revo Intercooler Pipes: £376.74
• Bilstein Evo S coilovers: £1346.00

Contact: www.onlyrevo.com

Forge Motorsport

Founded in 1996, Forge Motorsport have never messed about when a new performance VW has dropped and naturally it’s been busy developing new products ever since taking delivery of its Mk8 R demo car. The west-country firm also produces a number of GTI-specific products, plus many MQB parts that will fit the Mk8, like their big brake kits, wheel spacers and dog-bone bush inserts.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications for R and GTI models:

• Forge replacement panel filter: £36.04
• Recirculation valve: £219.04
• Atmospheric valve: £219.04
• Dog-bone bush insert (Type B): £48.43

Mk8 GTI model only:

• Dog-bone bush insert (Type A): £48.43
• Turbo muffler delete (GTI only): £125.64

VW Golf Mk8 modifications for R model only

• High Flow Intake Hose: £194.35 Inc VAT

Contact: www.forgemotorsport.com

Unitronic

Canadian firm, Unitronic has been developing Performance Hardware and Software for the Mk8 Golf GTI since the end of 2021. Having worked with Jamie Orr and Liqui Moly on a crazy car giveaway (pictured), the team kickstarted Research and Development even before receiving their very own 2022 Performance GTI in in December ’21. A plethora of upgrades are in the works with the parts listed below due to be realised very soon. Also in development are software, downpipe, turbo inlet, charge popes and much more.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications available soon:

• Carbon Fibre intake with Air Duct: £TBC
• Intercooler upgrade: £TBC
• Cat-back Exhaust: £TBC

Contact: www.getunitronic.com

ECS Tuning

Ohio-based ECS Tuning was formed way back in 1962 as Euro-Car Service based out of a two-bay auto repair shop. While the premises may have expanded somewhat since then, the focus on European (and especially VW) cars still remains and it now produces its own line of aftermarket upgrade products. Here is a list of just some of the parts it now produces for Mk8 GTI…

VW Golf Mk8 modifications available:

• Front adjustable sway bar: From $425.95 (rear also available)
• Front skid plate: $269.95 (mid and rear available)
• Dog-bone mount kit with insert: $294.95
• Adjustable coilovers: $727.95
• Alzor and Tekniform wheels: POA
• Turbo outlet pipe: $234.95
• Catback exhaust: $646.77
• Intake and filter upgrade: POA
• Rear strut tower brace (Stage 1): $160.95

Contact: www.ecstuning.com

Integrated Engineering FMIC offers 74% reduced intake air temp and 137% more core volume. It looks pretty sweet, too

Integrated Tuning

Founded in 2007 by brothers Peter and David Blais, American firm Integrated Engineering produce everything from connecting rods to camshafts, so it goes without saying that it has a selection of products in the development stages for the Mk8 Golf which will be launching very soon. For now, we can confirm that the Mk7 GTI FMIC will fit the Mk8 GTI and offer second-to-none build quality, plus huge improvements in cooling.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications available:

IE FDS MBQ Intercooler Kit Mk7/8 Golf: $899.00 – Offers 74% reduced intake air temp and 137% more core volume. Capable of dealing with 600+ bhp. Need we say more…

Contact: www.performancebyie.com

KW

The German supremos at KW have developed a full range of coilovers for the 8th generation performance Golf, plus lowering springs, if you’re that way inclined. It’s V1 coilover solution starts at £1123.00 and rises to £1888.00 for its three-way adjustable V3 option. If you have a car that runs DDC from the factory, then they offer a plug and play variant (£2450.00), that plug into your car and utilises the factory DDC settings as originally intended, except with a advantage of having an adjustable coilover fixed to each corner.

Contact: www.kwsuspensions.co.uk

Milltek

Millek recently launched non-resonated systems for the VW Golf GTI Mk8, which start at £1999.82 for the particular filter-back set-up with polished tips, and prices rise all the way up to £2826.48 for a resonated filter back system with burnt titanium tips. Carbon, ceramic and burnt finished tips are also available.

Brit Wagstaff at Milltek told us these systems are now being manufactured in Milltek’s ‘Advanced Manufacturing Centre’ utilising some of new equipment including Tube & Sheet Laser, All Electric CNC 4” Bender & 3D Laser Cutting Robotic Cells to allow for precise engineering.

Apparently large bore downpipes have also been developed for the Mk8 which come with either a High Flow Sports Cat (£955.18) or Race Cat (£784.61). While a de-cat pipe isn’t currently available we can’t imagine it will be too long until one is.

Contact: www.millteksport.com

Oettinger

German firm, Oettinger has been tuning VW’s Golf since the very first generation car and it’s current range of products are available officially as Volkswagen Accessories through your Volkswagen dealer. It offers styling packages for both the base model, GTI and R cars, plus a selection of alloy wheels with all products naturally being TUV approved. We’ll be focusing on the performance models for this VW Golf Mk8 modifications guide.

VW Golf Mk8 modifications for GTI and R models

• Front lip spoiler (also fits GTD, GTE & R-Line) £422.50
• Front spoiler (GTI): £478.00
• Rear diffuser (fits GTI with tailpipe up to 112mm) £691.50
• Roof spoiler (also fits GTD and R without R Performance pack):
  From £421.50
• 19” Twinspoke alloys (available in red or gloss black) POA

Contact: www.oettinger.de or www.volkswagen.co.uk

Maxton Design

The Maxton Design brand may be relatively new when compared with many of the other established names on these pages, but that hasn’t stopped the Polish company literally blowing up on the VAG scene over the passed few year. It’s products are super stylish, incredibly well built and affordable, too. What more could you ask for? Where its VW Golf Mk8 modifications programme is concerned, Maxton manufacturers all manner of bodywork add-ons. It’s front splitters start at €144.00, side skirts from €169.00 and rear valance €154.00. They also produce a number of splitters, flaps and diffusers, which will give your car a unique look while still retaining an OEM+ feel.

Contact: www.maxtondesign.com

Remus

Austrian firm Remus was founded in 1990 and now exports its exhausts to more than 60 countries worldwide.

For the VW Golf Mk8 GTI it offers a GPF-back system available in resonated and non-res (Racing) centre and a section of tailpipes (£1033.93 to £1531.07) offering gains of up to 8.3HP / 7.9Nm. The Mk8 Golf R system (£1526.78 to £2312.15), is also available with a range of tailpipes. You can expect gains around 7.6HP / 5.1Nm with the Racing GPF-back system installed.

Contact: www.remusuk.com

Pipercross

Pipercross offer their direct replacement performance filter for the Mk8 GTI and R. It’s foam filters are free-flowing, increasing performance and economy. They are also proven to have a 99.7% optimum filtration efficiency and a larger dirt capacity compared to any other type of filter.

It also features a lifetime warranty for the original buyer.

• Pipercross Mk8 GTI/R direct replacement filter: £41.99

Contact: www.pipercross.com

Scorpion

Scorpion produce a number of exhaust solutions of the Mk8 Golf R, including resonated and non-resonated, plus valved and non-valved systems. As well as polished Daytona and Daytona Ceramic tailpipes, the Derbyshire company is pleased to offer the Mk8 system with its new, premium high performance Ascari Carbon Tailpipes. The tailpipe has been produced with longevity in mind and is available in quad 90mm, 100mm & 114mm diameters. In terms of prices, these start at £1587.00 for a non-res, non-valved system.

Contact: www.scorpion-exhausts.com

WagnerTuning

WagnerTuning in Germany have been busy developing an Air Intake System for the Mk8 GTI Golf (£980.00) which is a direct replacement for the factory system and removes all the bottlenecks you’d find in the OEM system. The carbon air inlet system has been optimised for the best possible flow properties in order to generate maximum performance in combination with a unique intake noise. Wagner has also produced an EA888 Gen4 Turbo Outlet (£110.00) which replaces the restrictive OEM item and features a cross sectional enlargement of almost 20%. Finally, its High Performance ‘Competition’ Intercooler kit (£940.00 ) has a 620mm x 440mm x 65mm core size, providing 132% more volume compared to the original intercooler.

Contact: www.wagner-tuning.uk

Streettec

German firm Streetec produces its own custom air suspension kit tailored specifically for the VW Golf Mk8, which it has developed using only the finest European parts. BILSTEIN supply the dampers, while ContiTech and Universal Air produce the air springs. Streetec then produces all the custom  machine parts from the highest quality aluminium and stainless steel. The Mk8 Golf kits also come with adjustable top mounts and retail at €2499.

Contact: www.null-bar.de

034 Motorsport

Californian firm 034 Motorsport produce all manner of hardcore performance mods for mainly European vehicles (VW, Audi & BMWs). While it’s currently in the R&D stage with most Mk8-specific parts, it has produced a Turbo Muffler Delete kit ($109.00) for the vehicle. Plus, if you would like to get your Mk8 cornering like nothing else, then a lot of its Mk7 MQB parts will fit. Be sure to take a closer look on its website…

Contact: www.034motorsport.com

RPI Equipped

Canadian firm RPI Equipped might not manufacture any of its own products, but its demo VW Golf R Mk8 looks so mighty fine that we simply couldn’t leave it out. To think this car is only a set of (well fettled) wheels and suspension, goes some to show you want a good looking car the Golf R is. However, as we all know, everything looks better with a reduction in ride height and a larger diameter wheel. The car you see here feature H&R Street Performance coilovers ($2195.00 cdn), H&R EBM Electronic Bypass Module ($595.00 cdn), H&R 26mm/24mm anti-roll bar kit (825.00 cdn) and, the icing on the cake, Rotiform TUF-R wheels ($425.00 cdn) in 8.5×20” Et40 fitment.

Contact: www.rpiequipped.com

Guide from Performance VW magazine.

The post Ultimate Guide To VW Golf Mk8 Modifications appeared first on Fast Car.

The Best of the Breed: Mk4 Focus ST

The Ford Focus has been a staple in the world of car tuning for 25 years, but its days are sadly numbered. With the switch to electric vehicles looming, the Focus is expected to cease production in 2025. However, before it bids farewell, the Mk4 Focus ST has emerged as the ultimate incarnation of this beloved model. While its styling may lack the overt sportiness of its predecessors, the Mk4 delivers in terms of technology, driving experience, and build quality. It’s a grown-up hot hatch that doesn’t scream for attention but still packs a punch. And with an already thriving aftermarket scene, there are plenty of upgrades available to tune your ST to the next level.

Unleashing the Power: Tuning the Mk4 Ford Focus ST EcoBoost Engine

The Mk4 ST shares its 2.3-litre EcoBoost engine with the previous generation Focus RS but with some noteworthy improvements. Notably, the ST’s EcoBoost has proven to be more robust and reliable. A simple first-stage remap can bring the power up to 325bhp with 50bhp gains at 5400rpm. Tuning specialists like Mountune, Collins Performance, Revo, Dreamscience, Motorsport Developments, and Laird Performance all offer similar software upgrades, giving you the performance to rival even modified RS models.

Hardware upgrades such as intercoolers, cold air intake kits, and cat-back exhaust systems further enhance engine tuning. To unlock next-level performance, a sports catalytic convertor and sport gasoline particulate filter (GPF) are recommended.

Tuners like Mountune and Revo offer packages that push the power output to a staggering 360bhp to 405bhp and torque to 413lb.ft to 435lb.ft. In terms of cost, a first-stage remap and panel filter upgrade can range from £500 to £800. Hardware upgrades such as intercoolers and exhaust systems can range from £700 to £1500, depending on the brand and specifications. It’s important to note that these costs do not include installation or labour fees, which may vary depending on the tuning shop or specialist undertaking the work.

Transmission Upgrades

The stock six-speed manual transmission on the Mk4 ST is robust and handles increased power and torque well. However, companies like Helix offer clutch upgrades to handle even more torque for those seeking serious performance. Adding a well-weighted short-shift kit improves gear changes and is a worthwhile addition to any ST.

Ford Focus ST Mk4 Suspension Tuning

When it comes to suspension upgrades, the stock electronically controlled damping system of the Mk4 ST works well for most enthusiasts. However, for those seeking fine-tuned suspension settings or regular track use, investing in a set of coilovers is highly recommended.
Coilovers allow for precise adjustments in ride height, damping, and stiffness. Prices for coilover kits typically range from £1000 to £2000-plus, depending on the brand and specifications. Ford Performance coilovers (manufactured by KW) are also available through Ford dealerships. It’s worth noting that upgrading to coilovers will require an electronic damper delete module, which adds approximately £200 to the cost. For a more budget-friendly option, pairing lowering springs with the stock dampers can provide a noticeable improvement in handling without the need for more extensive modifications.

Stopping Power

When it comes to braking performance, the stock 330mm discs and twin-piston calipers are more than capable for most driving situations. Upgrading to performance pads and discs, along with braided lines for improved pedal feel, enhances their capabilities in fast road and occasional track sessions.
However, for spirited driving or track use, upgrading to a big brake kit can provide enhanced stopping power and fade resistance. EBC Brakes offers a two-piece fully-floating disc kit with four-pot calipers for £1370, while Revo’s Mono6 upgrade includes a massive 380mm disc and six-pot calipers for £2385. It’s worth noting that upgrading the brakes also involves replacing brake fluid, fitting braided lines, and potentially upgrading the rear pads, which can add to the overall cost.

Enhancing the Look

The Mk4 may still be in its early days, but there are already plenty of bolt-on aesthetic upgrades available to give your ST a more aggressive appearance. From splitters and low line kits to spoiler extensions and vinyl wrapping, there are options to suit every owner’s taste and preference. These bolt-on modifications can add a touch of aggression and individuality to the stock ST without compromising its daily drivability or practicality.
It’s worth mentioning that more radical modifications like wide-arch kits are also available for those looking to create a truly unique show car. However, it’s important to note that these modifications may require significant additional investment and potential compromises in terms of practicality and usability.

Wheels and Tyres

The performance-oriented ST Edition comes equipped with lightweight 19-inch alloys, reducing unsprung weight by 10% at each corner compared to the stock alloys. These can be purchased directly from Ford, albeit in a different finish. Lower offsets like ET42/45 can provide a more aggressive stance, and there are numerous options available in both 19-inch and 20-inch sizes. However, it’s important to consider the trade-off between aesthetics and ride comfort. For track enthusiasts, dropping down to 18-inch wheels can improve handling and offer a wider selection of track-focused tyres. When it comes to choosing tyres, it’s crucial to invest in trusted, well-known brands for optimal performance and safety.

Personalizing the Interior

The interior of the Mk4 Focus ST already exudes a premium feel, with a level of build quality that rivals its German competitors. While there may not be much need for performance-oriented interior modifications, personalizing the cabin is all about individual taste. Upgrades such as aftermarket shift knobs, pedals, and interior trim can add a touch of personal flair to your ST.

Ford Focus ST Mk4 Tuning Guide

The Mk4 Ford Focus ST is the pinnacle of the Focus lineage, offering a balance of power, refinement, and practicality. With a robust tuning scene and plenty of aftermarket support, taking your ST to the next level has never been easier. From remaps and hardware upgrades to suspension tuning and aesthetic enhancements, there are endless possibilities for getting the most out of your Mk4 ST. So why settle for the ordinary when you can transform your car into something truly extraordinary? Embrace the world of tuning, and let your Mk4 ST shine on both the road and the track.

Like this? Check out more Ford Focus ST Mk4 content from Fast Car

The post Tuning the Ford Focus ST Mk4 appeared first on Fast Car.

It’s hard to know where to start when modifying a car, and there’s no denying that one of the most popular places is with a performance exhaust. But where should you be looking to get your mitts on a shiny new system in 2024? Well, who better to ask than us at Fast Car? We’ve been modifying cars for over 30 years now, and know a thing or two when it comes to picking the best car exhausts. Size matters here folks. As does material.

You see, aside from all those posh materials that last forever and create the sort of noises that make any (sensible) full-grown adult go all weak and trembly at the knees, performance exhausts are about just two things.

First and foremost, tuning your engine. Performance exhausts free up the restrictions you’ll find in your standard system helping to get waste gasses out more efficiently. This releases more power and torque. And second – although many deny that it’s a crucial factor – they look awesome at the back of your pride and joy.

Why should I modify my car exhaust?

There are several reasons why you might want to modify your car exhaust. By making modifications, you can improve performance, increase horsepower, and enhance the sound of your car.

A well-designed aftermarket exhaust system can improve engine efficiency by reducing exhaust backpressure, which helps unleash more horsepower and torque. Additionally, a performance exhaust can enhance the engine’s sound, giving it a deeper, sportier tone. Furthermore, reducing weight with aftermarket exhaust components can improve the car’s overall handling and dynamics.

However, it’s important to check local laws as some modifications may not be legal in all areas.

What are the best car exhaust brands?

So, with all our modifying knowledge and experience, what manufacturers are at the top of the tree for looks, price, performance gains and more than a little car scene kudos along the way? That’ll be this little lot right here. In no particular order, these are our best car exhaust brands in 2024.

Akrapovic

Posher than a caviar-powered Bugatti, Akrapovic cut their teeth in the ‘90s making award-winning motorbike exhausts, before launching their stunning car line back in 2010. Basically speaking, if Louis Vuitton decided to produce high-end exhausts, they still wouldn’t be as sought-after as the trinkets on offer from this Slovenian behemoth.

Some of the world’s most extreme R&D, along with the use of space age materials such as titanium, carbon fiber and ceramic composites, is their main focus nowadays. And it’s this almost ridiculous attention to the finer details that has seen them bag over 160 championships in all areas of motorsport. Yep, you just know you’re dealing with a monster when they put together their CAD designed in a ‘metallurgical laboratory’… er, whatever that is. They even have their own foundry where they produce the proprietary titanium for their top-end designs.

But, what does all this mean for us? Well, apart from the fact that you’d better start saving, they offer two product lines over a decent range of applications… although naturally, the cars on the list are a little on the high-end side, too. Choose from the Slip-On Line, which is available in titanium or stainless steel, and offers a healthy performance hike. Or the Evolution Line, which does all of the above, but with the addition of extra link pipes for even more performance. These also come with a choice of carbon and titanium tailpipes. Like we said, start saving; but Akrapovic earns itself a rightful spot in our list of the best car exhaust brands.

Check out Akrapovic exhausts. 

Fujitsubo Exhausts

There aren’t many exhaust manufacturers that are as revered as Fujitsubo in the car community. That’s exactly why it had to feature in our list of the best car exhaust brands in 2024.

The oldest manufacturer on our list, Fujitsubo has been a family-run business since 1955. They actually started out as a race team developing their own parts. Nowadays though, they’re known for producing nothing but the finest exhausts for JDM cars. That and for valuing tradition above all else.

In true Japanese arts and crafts style, they don’t have welders. They have traditional craftsmen that have to endure a lengthy apprenticeship to earn the title of Master. These guys have been building exhausts from stainless steel and titanium before your parents were born.

The boss, Fujitsubo-san (who took over from his father, Fujitsubo-san… who took over from his father, Fujitsubo-san), oversees a huge operation in the foothills of Mount Fuji, much of which is supplying OEM parts. Allegedly they’re secret standard equipment on many JDM performance cars including the R35 Nissan GTR.

The list of aftermarket applications is also extensive. There’s no less than 15 different types from their road-legal ‘Legalis’ series, and a whole load more that are, let’s just say, even more fruity. But, with all that said, they’re not as common as you might think outside of Japan, probably due to the premium price. So, if you do manage to find a local dealer and get one on your car, you immediately have our permission to puff out your chest and strut round like you own the place.

Check out Fujitsubo Exhausts.

Milltek Sport

A premium brand synonymous with out and out performance, Milltek Sport is a UK manufacturer that, over the past 40-years, has put British engineering firmly on the map. In terms of the range of applications they offer, too. Dare we say it? They probably have more than anyone else on our list, especially when you consider that they also have a huge division called Milltek Corp that serves the USDM market.

Known to be at the top of the game when it comes to innovation and intensive testing, chiefly at their huge facility on the Nürburgring. Along with their stainless-steel cat-back systems, they’re just as well-known for their other modular upgrades, such as downpipes and de-cats. Not so long ago on these shores, a VAG motor just wasn’t a modified VAG motor until it had a Milltek downpipe at the very least. But what’s most important is that these innovations have seen them lead from the front for decades. Nowadays they even make products for Teslas… and no, we’re not kidding.

Perhaps what’s best is that Milltek have just one single product line, there are no budget options, and this means that you get the exact same quality no matter what you drive. If consistency is key to building a brand name that everyone knows and trusts, you can think of Milltek as the Coca Cola of the exhaust world. You didn’t think we could leave it off our list of the best car exhaust brands in 2024, did you?

Check out Milltek Sport Exhausts.

Scorpion Exhausts

There’s no doubt about it, Scorpion is a British institution, and it has been for well over 30-years. In modified car circles the Red Power badge is nothing short of legendary. Most likely because they were the first UK manufacturer to start producing direct-fit, stainless-steel upgrades for cars of the ‘90s hot hatch era.

These home-grown tuning pioneers have firmly stuck to their roots by continuing to offer hand-crafted exhausts for a whole load of cars that you actually see on the streets – Ford Fiestas, Audi A4s, Honda Civics, Vauxhall Astras, Renault Clios – the modifying bread and butter. To this day their fitment list – along with their prices – remains realistic, so you could say that Scorpion manufacture the exhausts of the people. And we reckon there’s a lot of honor in that.

Don’t go thinking they’re not all flashy and high-end though. Just because Scorpion actually make a backbox for your 1.4 SEAT Arosa doesn’t make them a budget brand – there’s a huge difference between a bargain and a bargain basement alternative. There’s actually a mind-blowing amount of R&D that goes into every single one of their products, both in terms of performance gains and sound engineering. Some of the most intensive R&D in the whole industry, in fact.

Most of all though, you just can’t beat the kind of build quality that’s been proven to perform at the highest levels of motorsport. Race car or road car, you just can’t kill a Scorpion, and that’s a fact, hence why it’s in our list of the best car exhaust brands.

Check out Scorpion Exhausts.

Remus Performance Sport Exhausts

This Austrian firm is a bona fide European success story, founded in 1990 it only took Remus 5-years to take the performance world completely by storm. Their OEM and motorsport clients are a veritable Who’s Who of prestige motoring, and they even make stuff for Airbus… so listen out for the tell-tale raspy note the next time you’re boarding a jet.

But we digress, the aftermarket exhaust side of the business is what we’re most interested in here, and what these guys cook up in their three huge factories in Austria and Bosnia is as high-brow as you like.

Although they have quite the extensive fitment list for European cars (and the odd Japanese motor), perhaps what they’re most known for is offering performance upgrades for prestige motors, particularly those of the German persuasion. Basically, if you’re looking for a flashy exhaust for your BMW M8 Competition, Merc CLA AMG or 900bhp Brabus Rocket, Remus is the first number you dial. Luckily though, there’s quite a few realistic fitments in there, too. But what’s most important is that you always get the same uber-quality and high spec materials.

There is one other thing too of course, despite all the motorsport know-how and performance gains, nothing out there sounds quite like a Remus. Their unique grumble is something they’ve been trading off from the very beginning.

Check out Remus Exhausts.

Japspeed

Established in the early noughties, there’s no doubt that Japspeed is one of the original (and much replicated) one-stop shops for Japanese cars. Put simply, what these guys don’t make isn’t worth upgrading in the first place. They continue to develop all sorts of parts in-house, here in the UK, and list everything from intercoolers and BBKs, to suspension arms and radiators. And naturally, their line-up also includes CAD-designed stainless steel exhaust systems, along with plenty of downpipes, sports CATs and tubular manifolds.

Almost as famous as their parts is their race team, and more specifically their exploits in the drifting world over the past two decades. They’re also the maker of the world-famous double barreled Shotgun Exhaust… which is exactly as lairy, and road-legal, as it sounds.

The truth is that Japspeed exhausts are almost standard equipment on imports nowadays, for many Japanese car fans they’re the first port of call when it comes to finding an exhaust upgrade. Price point is a key consideration of course, the sheer volume of their sales means they can keep the costs within’ the grasp of us mere mortals. But what they have always done extremely well – you might say their raison d’etre – is to offer applications for the more off-beat models. You’ve got your GT-Rs, RX-7s, Scoobies and Civics, but they’re not all from the GT-R, FD, STI or Type R stable. And that’s pretty important to a healthily modifying community.

So, if you’re after a high-quality exhaust or downpipe for the car that no one lists, and you don’t want to re-mortgage your grandad’s wooden leg to get it, Japspeed is often the answer.

Check out Japspeed Exhausts.

Powerflow Exhausts

You may wake up one morning and feel the need to have your exhaust passing through your driver seat and coming out of your roof. And, while we sincerely hope you don’t, it’s nice to know that you can with the mighty Powerflow.

Perhaps the most famous custom exhaust manufacturer – certainly here in the UK – with over 60 locations it seems like these guys have been around forever, so it’s hard to believe that they only started in 1998. Except of course, that’s not quite the case. What most people don’t know is that Powerflow were building exhausts in South Africa as far back early ‘70s, because that’s exactly where they mine the ore needed to make stainless steel. True story.

What Powerflow do is design and build your exhaust exactly how you want it. They offer offer a selection of tailpipe designs, and even a choice of where you put the exits. And it’s this kind of flexibility that has seen a symbiotic relationship with the modified car scene for the past couple of decades.

Suffice to say we’ve seen some mentalist creations from them over the years, too. But what’s always been just as useful – for rarer models where there’s no bolt-on option, along with classics where parts are hard to come by – is that they can do whatever you ask, and put it all together while you wait. You just sit down, grab yourself a drink and watch the masters at work. That’s why Powerflow earns a spot in a best car exhaust brands in 2024.

Check out Powerflow Exhausts. 

HKS

We can’t talk about performance exhausts without including the most famous Japanese manufacturer of them all. Now we’ve no doubt that, when Hiroyuki Hasegawa, Goichi Kitagawa and Sigma Automotive, gave up their initials to their new company back in the early ‘70s, they had no idea what they’d unleashed on the tuning world. We also know that HKS make some of the most revered parts in the world-wide Japanese car community, and that this extends to the absolutely mind-boggling array of direct-fit exhausts they have on offer.

Now it’s a bit confusing this one. First because the fitment list isn’t massive; it’s basically limited to JDM cars. But the number of different lines they produce, not to mention what they’ve decided to call them, is confusing and entertaining in equal measure. These range from those constructed mostly for looks and a mild performance hike, to race-only items that will have the local police breathing down your neck.

We’ll start with the famous ones that most Japanese car fans have actually heard of – the Hi-Power Muffler, Spec R and Super Turbo Muffler. But then there’s also loads of others such as the Super Sound Master, LEGAMAX, Coolstyle, ES Wagon, Dual Muffler, Silent Hi-Power, LEGAMAX Sports, Full Dual Muffler, Trail Master and V11TS and… well, yeah, that’s not even all of them.

So, are they just making it up as they go along? Probably, but surely that’s all part of the appeal. Crazy, but sometimes crazy is the whole point.

Check out HKS exhausts.

Cobra Sport

There’s more than a couple of exhaust manufacturers that sponsor cars in the top echelons of motorsport, but only one we can think of that has their own entire BTCC team. And that’s what Cobra Sport is all about, taking the risk and going big. In fact, these guys have had a long and illustrious history of competing which dates back to Formula Ford and Formula 2000 in the late ‘70s. But still, even that little lot pales in comparison to the success of their products in the modifying community over the last 30-years.

Since the birth of Cobra Sport as a stand-alone brand, they have built up an absolute ton of bolt-on fitments for a huge selection of the most popular cars on the scene. They also have all sorts of innovations and posh upgrades, such as resonator deletes, race cats and carbon fiber tailpipes. They even offer a custom exhaust service for cars that aren’t listed – you can’t say fairer than that, right?

Cobra is also the only exhaust manufacturer we know of who can boast the prestigious ‘Made In Sheffield’ mark. And it means that the workmanship and the quality of the stainless steel is right up there with the best that the world has to offer. That’s why it’s earned itself a spot in our list of the best car exhaust brands in 2024. What isn’t up there though, is the pricing. Something we always find a little surprising for tig-welded loveliness that’s this damn good. A modifying favorite and no mistake.

Check out Cobra Sport Exhausts. 

Direnza

Aside from a whole host of other parts, affordable but extremely well-made stainless systems for European motors is the name of the game here. In fact, when you take a look at the quality of their line-up, it’s no wonder that Direnza has become one of Europe’s most popular modifying go-tos over the last decade.

What we’re looking at here then, is premium parts at not so premium prices. And they’re all designed to eek out plenty of extra performance on the road, and on the track. What we like most though, is that Direnza are also pioneers in the latest vehicle scanning techniques, CAD design and even 3D printing at the prototyping stage. All their products are designed, developed and performance tested right here in the UK.

There’s also a wide range of fitments, and plenty of supporting parts such as backbox deletes, sports cats and a selection of rather posh looking tubular race manifolds. If we had to pick out a stand-out product line though, we’re absolutely loving their oversized, ceramic coated downpipes. There’s plenty of bang for your buck to be with this little lot.

Check out Direnza Exhausts. 

MagnaFlow

OK, so there’s a few on our best car exhaust brands list from Japan, a few more from Europe and one or two from UK. But what about a slice of home-grown talent for our readers in the US? Well, that’s got to be MagnaFlow.

It’s hardly a surprise though, because we’ve also got the Discovery Channel and this monster corporation seems to be endorsed by just about everyone to wear a race suit or slap on a welding mask. Let’s just say that the list is long and distinguished, but it’s all with good reason. Custom car maestros like Chip Foose, Bodie Stroud and Aaron Kaufman have quite the following around the world. And that goes double for monster truck royalty like Dennis Anderson and racing god Mario Andretti.

MagnaFlow started in the ‘80s and they continue to manufacture full exhaust systems for all sorts of American metal, including the massive pickups, off roaders and muscle cars you’d fully expect. But perhaps what they’re most famous for is their Builder Parts and Custom Exhaust Kits, where you can order a whole load of pre-bent pipework and weld up your own. We’ve all seen how easy that is on the TV, right? Besides, in a land where custom is king, we can’t think of anything better.

Check out MagnaFlow Exhausts. 

FAQs about car exhausts

What are the different types of exhaust materials?

When purchasing an aftermarket exhaust, you may have to consider what sort of material you want the exhaust to be made from. So, here are the strengths and weaknesses of the major core options that you’re most likely to come across.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is the most common type of material you’ll find used in aftermarket exhaust systems. In fact, steel in its various forms is by far the most common choice for OEMs too because it’s cheap and easy to work with. The more basic stuff can prove to be weak at extreme temperatures though, which often means it requires thicker walls which in turn adds weight to the car.

Most aftermarket options that use steel will opt for either the T304 or T409 stainless kinds, which are the best suited for the job. There is a trade-off to consider between the two though – T304 is less susceptible to corrosion, whereas T409 is better at dealing with high temperatures. So, if you live somewhere rife with road salt, T304 might be better. However, if you live in a car-friendly climate, you might want to opt for T409 for the best performance potential.

Titanium

Titanium exhausts are arguably the next step up. They certainly are in terms of cost. Often, titanium exhaust manufacturers will claim that these offerings weigh around 40% less than your average steel alternative. Perhaps the coolest thing about them though is the coloring – when heated to an extreme, titanium exhaust piping will turn blue/purple/gold as a result of a chemical process known as oxidation. The look is deemed quite desirable, so some aftermarket exhausts come with pre-oxidized tips as an option.

Nickel alloys (e.g. Inconel)

Exhaust systems made from nickel alloy are the most expensive out there. Whereas stainless steel and titanium are fairly multipurpose materials, nickel alloys are most prominently used in scenarios where temperatures get really, really hot. As such, they’re the best suited to deal with hot exhaust gases; offering more strength against the heat and a greater level of resistance to corrosion.

Because of the elite nature of this material, it’s most commonly found in motorsport scenarios, or the more exotic end of the tuning scene. One of the most popular brands of nickel alloy for car exhausts is Inconel.

What is a car exhaust system? And why is it needed?

An exhaust system in a car plays a crucial role in the overall performance and functionality of the vehicle. It is responsible for safely carrying exhaust gases away from the engine, and reducing both noise and vehicle emissions.

A standard car exhaust system comprises various components that work together to ensure efficient performance. The exhaust manifold collects and channels engine exhaust gases into one pipe. Next, the catalytic converter plays a crucial role by converting harmful pollutants into less harmful emissions before releasing them into the atmosphere. The muffler is responsible for reducing the noise levels generated by the engine’s exhaust. Finally, the tailpipe releases the treated emissions into the environment. Each component serves a specific function in the overall operation of the exhaust system, contributing to the vehicle’s performance and maintaining optimal exhaust flow.

Can I use an exhaust system from a different car model on my vehicle?

While it may be possible to use an exhaust system from a different car model on your vehicle, it’s generally not recommended unless the components are specifically designed to be compatible. Exhaust systems are tailored to fit specific vehicles, accounting for differences in chassis design, engine placement, and other factors. Attempting to fit an incompatible exhaust system can lead to clearance issues, exhaust leaks, and potential damage to the vehicle. It’s best to choose exhaust components that are explicitly designed for your car model to ensure proper fitment and performance.

Can I install an aftermarket exhaust system myself, or do I need professional help?

Installing an aftermarket exhaust system can vary in complexity depending on the make and model of your car and the specific exhaust components you choose. Some exhaust upgrades are relatively straightforward and can be installed by mechanically minded car enthusiasts with the right tools and knowledge. However, more complex installations may require specialized tools, welding, or adjustments to ensure proper fitment and performance. If you are unsure about the installation process or the exhaust system’s compatibility, it’s recommended to seek professional help from experienced mechanics or automotive technicians.

Are car exhaust modifications legal?

The legality of car exhaust modifications varies depending on your location and local regulations. In most cases, exhaust mods are allowed, but altering the exhaust system beyond the manufacturer’s specifications can sometimes be considered illegal, particularly if it results in increased noise levels or emissions above the allowed limits. It’s best to research and understand your local laws before making any modifications to avoid potential fines or legal issues.

Will modifying my car’s exhaust void the warranty?

In some cases, modifying your car’s exhaust system can void the manufacturer’s warranty, especially if the modifications directly impact the vehicle’s emissions or drivetrain. However, some aftermarket exhaust manufacturers offer warranties for their products, ensuring their compatibility and performance with your vehicle. It’s crucial to research warranty terms and consult with the manufacturer or a reputable mechanic before making any modifications.

What is the difference between a cat-back and an axle-back exhaust system?

A cat-back exhaust system replaces everything from the catalytic converter (cat) to the rear of the vehicle, including the muffler and exhaust pipes. On the other hand, an axle-back exhaust replaces only the components from the rear axle to the rear of the car, typically including the muffler and exhaust tips. The primary difference lies in the extent of the modification and the potential impact on performance. While a cat-back system can offer more significant gains, an axle-back system can still improve exhaust flow and sound without extensive alterations.

How much horsepower can I gain from a performance exhaust upgrade?

The horsepower gains from a performance exhaust upgrade can vary depending on the specific modifications you’ve made, your car’s make and model, and other factors like the engine’s state of tune and existing exhaust setup. Generally, a well-designed aftermarket exhaust can offer modest horsepower gains ranging from 5 to 20 horsepower. However, combining the exhaust upgrade with other performance modifications, such as intake upgrades and engine tuning, can lead to more significant power increases.

What are the legal noise regulations for modified exhaust systems in different states/countries?

The legal noise regulations for modified exhaust systems can vary significantly between states and countries. Some regions have specific decibel limits for vehicle exhaust noise, while others base their regulations on subjective criteria like “unreasonable noise.” You need to research and understand the noise regulations in your location to ensure your modified exhaust system complies with the law. Additionally, what may be considered legal in one region may not be acceptable in another, so always consider your local guidelines.

The post Best Car Exhaust Brands In 2024 For Sound & Performance appeared first on Fast Car.

You may not know where to start when modifying a car, but a performance car air filter is certainly one of the most popular places to begin your journey. First of all though, do you know what a car air filter does?

What is a car air filter?

Put simply, it does exactly as the name suggests, it filters the air that enters your engine. Its job is to block tiny bits of dirt that get sucked into your car from making their way into the engine and potentially damaging sensors and other engine components.

The car air filter sits at the front of the induction system, usually enclosed in an air box, and fed air through piping. The filter itself is either made from paper, cotton, foam or metal, and each material has its benefits and negatives.

Now we’ve got the information on what it is and how it works out of the way, I’m going to shed some light on which the best brands are so you can start your modifying journey.

Best car air filters to buy in 2024

K&N air filters

You just can’t have any filter guide without K&N because they’re hands down the biggest, and most famous, performance filter company on the planet.

The all-American company has been around since the late ‘60s. It manufactures over 12000 different applications, for just about every car, truck and motorbike around the world. So, you can pretty much guarantee you’ll find one for your specific motor, no matter what vehicle you happen to drive. In fact, these guys are so big that nowadays they’ve become a genericized brand name in their own right. You call your vacuum cleaner a Hoover, hot tubs Jacuzzis, hook and loop fasteners Velcro and performance air filters K&Ns. “You got a K&N on that?” We’ve all heard that one.

The founding engineers, Ken Johnson and Norm McDonald (yes, that’s where the K&N name comes from) practically invented the use of high-flow cotton gauze for filter elements. As a result, it’s lead the way for many tuning companies ever since. Starting with motorbike parts and bolt-on pancake filters for carb-fed vehicles they now offer the absolute lot – panel filters, cones, cold air intake kits, performance airboxes, everything you could ever desire. And what’s more, they all come with their famous ‘Million Mile Warranty’. That should tell you everything you need to know about durability. It rightfully places in our guide to the best car air filter in 2023.

Oh yeah, there’s also the urban myth that the K&N company is owned by Micky ‘Whiplash’ Rourke. Strange but true.

Eventuri intakes

Could these be the poshest intakes on the market right now? We wouldn’t be at all surprised. Show stopping looks, impeccable engineering and the utmost exclusivity obviously doesn’t come cheap, but is it worth dropping a grand or two on an induction upgrade? Well, just take a look at what these guys have on offer…

Put together by a team of proper aeronautical engineers, despite the rarity of these carbon fiber works of art, it’s surprising just how many cars they cater for. They cover way more than we imagined when we looked. But basically, if you’re the kind of guy that needs a forklift to get your wallet out of your pocket, these are the only people you call. Besides, who doesn’t feel like a failure if their Urus and Huracan doesn’t have matching carbon airbox kits, anyway?

What won’t come as a surprise of course, is that most of the cars listed are suitably high-end. Naturally it’s mostly European luxo-barges with an AMG or M badge on the boot. But, we’re happy to say that there’s also a few top-level Civic Type Rs, Mk 5 Supras and the GR Yaris in there, too. Although, that’s about as realistic as it gets. Maybe that’s the whole point.

What’s most important of all is the no-expense-spared technology they’ve brought to the table. Eventuri don’t do simple panel filter upgrades, or basic intakes for that matter. Instead the vast majority of their kits are engineered to incorporate their unique inverted cone filters. These puppies have been engineered to act like a massive velocity stack, smoothing out the airflow to increase the airspeed by invoking the Venturi effect. This gives you more power and a smoother delivery over more conventional intake designs. You just can’t argue with science, can you?

AEM

There’s no doubt that AEM manufacture some of the most highly-regarded products of any brand out there. We also love the fact that there’s no guessing or disappointments with their huge selection of cotton filters and cold air intakes, either. There’s some serious R&D that goes into all their products and the rolling road results are right there in black and white.

AEM have been around since the late 1980s and for many years specialized in vintage American cars, along with street racers and modified imports. But their first DIY intake kit – which was designed for the Honda CRX – hit the market in 1994, instantly achieving legendary status in the tuning community. Nowadays, although they still cater for Japanese cars and all the home-grown V8 monsters you’d expect, they’re perhaps most famous for tuning the European ‘imports’. For this reason, AEM have always maintained appearances; absolutely nailing the performance aspect, but still catering for the more decerning tastes that come with premium Euro motors.

Maybe what’s best is all their clever technical innovations. They manufacture plenty of their oil-free DRYFLOW panel filters and cones to fit scores of vehicles. But, when it comes to their CAD designed intakes, they were one of the first to think to relocate the filter out of the bay to eliminate heat soak. Nowadays, their patented Dual Chamber Intakes (which are designed to utilize multiple frequency soundwaves to create even more power) are some of the most talked about products out on the market, too. Rightfully deserving of a place on our guide to the best car filter in 2023.

HKS

Can we look at the world’s best car air filter without acknowledging HKS? Of course we can’t.

Now, we know that the brainchild of Hiroyuki Hasegawa, Goichi Kitagawa and Sigma Automotive has spawned alloy radiators, stainless steel exhausts and all sorts of other high-end tuning gubbins over the years. But maybe, just maybe, their SPF ‘mushroom’ filters, are some of their most iconic products ever. They’re certainly a common sight the world over. They may not be new and obviously you can only get direct-fit kits for Japanese tuner cars – the likes of RX-7s, Skylines, Subarus and… er, the Suzuki Wagon R. There’s no denying that the green HKS Super Power Flow filter is as instantly recognizable as the McDonald’s’ Golden Arches or Coca Cola’s Contour Bottle .

Naturally though, being HKS, the main product that we’ve heard of is a mere drop in the Pacific compared to the other kits they make. You’ve got the basic Super Air Filter, which is a direct-fit panel. Then there’s the Premium Suction which comes with some flash piping for your standard airbox. And then you’ve got the full-on Carbon Cold Air Intake, the GT Suction, Carbon Racing Suction and the Racing Suction kit. In other words, there’s plenty of crazy-looking trinkets to ponder.

Suitably high end, infinitely desirable and a fair few quid, HKS are truly the Dyson of the car air filter market.

Forge Motorsport

Since the nineties Forge have become one of the most popular brands for serous tuners, particularly in the USA. With these guys it’s all about offering the best possible quality for their huge range of performance upgrades. They develop everything in-house – from Big Brake Kits and radiators to silicone hoses and dump valves – and there’s no doubt that they offer some of the most revered gear for those in the know.

Now, arguably it’s the Ford and VAG communities where they made the most impact initially, but over the years their products have stormed the Euro segment and worked their way well into the Japanese and US tuner stables. You simply can’t go wrong with Forge, it’s like an unwritten rule of modifying these days, and that’s what makes them one of our biggest and brightest exports.

All this of course, extends to their impeccably-designed induction kits, of which there are many, many different applications, covering a wide range of core cars. What’s a little weird for a guide like this though, is that they don’t make actual filters themselves, instead they’ve partnered with some of the UK heavy-hitters – experts such as Pipercross and RamAir – to take care of those.

What Forge do is optimize everything else in the kit, and it has to be said that they do it extremely well. From all their experience in race tuning, these guys are some of the leading experts in maximizing the benefits of cone filters by using the latest tech to develop some of the best-fitting, best-performing, bolt-on intake kits and carbon airboxes available anywhere. Like we said, you just can’t go wrong.

Pipercross

There’s no doubt that Pipercross is a British institution, they’ve been going strong for the past 4-decades. These guys are the global pioneers in using foam technology for filter element material, making their products the most renowned foam filters around the world.

Not only do Pipercross offer a massive fitment list of universal and direct-fit panel, cone and intake kits to cover the vast majority of road cars out there, but their competition range aims to provide the solution for all those awkward random applications, too. This little lot covers those weird and wonderful intake systems you’ll find on classic cars and those in the world of motorsport, with everything from bolt-on jobs for Formula Ford racers to huge filters designed for ITB and Twin Carb setups. Basically then, they’ll be able to sort out anything you happen to be bolting together.

What we like most though, is that modifying innovation for maximum performance gains has always been the name of the game. And most often it’s not just about the filter itself, but all the other engineering around it. From their super-high-end V1 Carbon Airboxes to their Velossa Tech kits  – which come with vehicle-specific, OEM-style RAM intakes to scoop up plenty of the good stuff  – it’s easy to see why these guys remain right at the top of the modifying game.

ITG

What we’ve always admired about ITG is their strict no messing about policy. There’s no flash marketing, weird celebrity endorsements or undeserved hype here. For these guys, it’s all about the performance. In fact, despite being around for more than 30 years, they may not even be on your radar. Well, not unless you’re one of the world’s top motorsport engineers. WRC, BTCC, Le Mans and even those mentalist Monster Jam trucks, let’s just say that ITG’s client list is long and distinguished. You’ll find an ITG filter bolted to many an F1 car, too. So, perhaps that’s all we need to say. It would be difficult to argue why ITG shouldn’t feature in our guide to the best car air filter in 2024.

It’s not just about out-and-out motorsport applications, you’ll find Induction Technology Group products in all sorts of weird and wonderful places. They’re OEM equipment for the likes of Aston Martin, Renault Sport and Ascari. And plenty of mega tuners like TRD, NISMO and the mighty Cosworth swear by them.

But, what does this mean for you? The good news is that you can benefit from all this experience. These guys offer a whole host of filters for road cars (performance models or otherwise) ranging from their Profilter panels, to Maxogen cone filters with carbon airboxes and all the trimmings for a little more money.

Got a custom build, race team or something awkward? No problem, ITG even have a bespoke Custom-fit service where they can develop and test a solution for you in as little as 48-hours. They’re also one of the very rare firms to produce both foam and cotton gauze filters, meaning that they’ll always pick whatever works best for each application. As you can imagine, that’s almost unheard of.

RamAir

RamAir are one of the big British names these days and it’s easy to see why they have a veritable army of fans on these shores. The reason is pretty simple in fact, over the last decade or so they’ve become a UK modifying powerhouse by offering some of the best quality and most indestructible kits out there. A novel concept we’re sure, but one that works.

Once again, we’re loving the no-nonsense approach exuded by everything they do. We can’t help but admire the fact that their selection of foam RamAir filters, and their cotton PRORAM filters, offer exactly what they say on the tin – they just work exceptionally well and last forever. Oh, and perhaps even better than that, they don’t pull your pants down when it comes to the prices. Consider this; we can’t fault the build quality and all their products come with a lifetime warranty, but their cone filters start at around the same money as a basic panel filter just about everywhere else.

But price aside, we can’t overlook the fact that they all look pretty damn sexy, either. Aside from the 400-strong selection of universal cones and direct-fit panel filters, there’s also over 170 supremely-engineered intake kits, many of which come with posh laser-cut heat shielding, silicon hoses, specially designed intake piping, oversized filters or all of the above. To be honest it also seems like there’s not a week goes by that we don’t see yet another application added to their ever-growing fitment list, too. Commendable stuff indeed, hence why it places in our guide to the best car air filter in 2024.

Simota Racing Sports

Even though Simota wasn’t around until the nineties, even to those of us with way too many years under our belts, it seems like this massive Taiwanese firm has been a part of the modifying fabric since the dawn of existence. All this is for good reason though; Simota have had a huge influence on the car community over the years. In fact, many credit these guys as being the very first to offer any bolt-on intake kit, let alone an affordable one.

In any case it’s clear that Simota were busy squirreling away developing a ton of direct-fit induction mods for the mass market when most of the rest could just about manage a universal cone or two. And that’s what makes them bona fide pioneers in the filtration game.

Allegedly they also came up with the idea of flashy looking kits with alloy charge pipes, carbon boxes and other polished, adonized or chrome trim. Basically, all the flashy stuff to show off to your mates. A lot of bonnets remained firmly shut at car shows before Simota came along, that’s for sure.

Despite all this though, perhaps Simota are most known for their universal cone filters. Again, they changed the game by not only offering decent quality urethane cones that work well for increasing power, but they also made them look the part by adorning them with bright colors and shiny trinkets.

Simota continue to develop some great products and pump them out at realistic prices, and there’s a lot to be said for that.

How we chose the best car air filters

For this list, we’ve relied on the expertise of long-term Fast Car contributor Midge Burr. Midge is a qualified mechanic and serial-modifier who was working on cars long before he was old enough to drive. If there’s something Midge doesn’t know about modifying cars, it’s likely not worth knowing at all.

Midge has been working on Fast Car since the early 2000s, and has edited a number of other modified car magazines across those years, including Banzai mag and Performance Vauxhall.

FAQs about car air filters

Induction kit vs. filter upgrade

Most people that modify their cars, however, tend to upgrade the whole induction system, rather than just replacing a filter. That said, if you’re on a super tight budget, an uprated panel filter or replacement cone filter is a quick and easy way to get a *slightly* enhanced induction noise, and an extra 1-3 horsepower if you’re lucky. Not that you’d be able to feel it.

For that reason, if car tuning is more than just a fleeting interest for you, it’s always best to opt for a full induction kit. In fact, this is a must if you’re planning on beefing up the car’s internals. Sure, it’ll cost more, but you’ll get a lot more reward in the shape of performance gains. This is because most induction kits increase the size of the intake piping, and alter where the system’s location. Reputable aftermarket brands will ensure that they design each system to maximize the efficiency of airflow too, which in turn means you can channel more air into the engine at a faster rate. Long story short, that helps to create more horsepower.

As a result of these two differing options when it comes to upgrading your car’s intake system, the list we’ve compiled below looks at brands that offer the best panel or cone air filter, as well as complete induction systems.

Why upgrade your car air filter?

There are many benefits to upgrading your car air filter, not least that uprated air filters are serviceable and reusable, so they’ll easily last the lifetime of your vehicle. They also look the part, create that sought-after induction roar and, most important of all, will pull more air into your engine to net you a few cheeky horses. Yep, performance filters suck big time, but that’s in a good way.

But, you know what? It doesn’t matter if you’re looking for a replacement panel filter a simple cone upgrade, an induction kit or a flashy airbox and intake job, we’re here to help by showing you where you can find some of the very best.

How to buy the best engine air filter

Air filters are simple really. If you’re getting a direct panel filter replacement then the big thing to get right is to make sure you buy one which fits your car’s air box. Aside from that, you want something made from a material with enough strength to keep out unwanted contaminants, while still maximizing the amount of airflow available to the car’s engine.

If you go down the route of a cone filter, the biggest thing to consider here is placement (and therefore temperature). As the cone filter is usually exposed rather than being contained within a box, you need to make sure it’s situated in the best place possible to breath in *cold* air, not hot air. Remember, hot air saps power. As a result, some high-end cone filter kits will provide the pipework to ensure you can place them down low in the front bumper, for example. Alternatively, if your situation requires that you keep your cone filter in much the same place as where the old panel filter was, it might be worth investing in a heat guard to shield the cone filter from some of the heat emanating from the engine.

How often should I change a car air filter?

Some motor manufacturers have extended the recommended interval for replacing a standard air filter. Whilst this saves many car owners money, does it help to optimize performance and fuel economy?

Take the third-generation Toyota Avensis with a 2.2-liter diesel engine. The recommended service interval for replacing the air filter is every four years or 40,000 miles. Our advice is to inspect the air filter at least every year and if it’s clogged with dirt, replace it. Be sure to check out our car maintenance checklist for more information on servicing.

Still not convinced about the performance benefits of upgrading your air filter? Check out our myth-busting filter performance test!

The post Best Car Air Filter in 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

There’s no doubt that high-level car tuning can be a complicated business, but we’ll let you in on a little secret; there are quite a few ‘experts’ out there who love to make it even more baffling. Luckily though, we’re not here to blind you with science. Instead, we want to make it super simple. While you might start with some ECU tuning, you’ll undoubtedly end up on a path for more and more power. So, let’s get started, shall we?

What is car tuning?

The art of car tuning is to modify a vehicle to achieve greater performance. Put simply, it’s making your car faster.

It doesn’t matter if your engine runs on petrol or diesel, the basis of all car tuning comes down to one thing: air + fuel = power. The number one rule is that the more that you can cram in, the bigger the explosion in the cylinders and more power your engine will put out.

There are several ways that you can go about achieving this, whether it be by physically installing upgraded parts, or simply by meddling with car’s software through ECU tuning. Be aware that, the further down the rabbit hole you go, the more likely you are to need to think about strengthening the engine as well as just extracting more performance out of it. But fear not, we’ll touch on that too.

So, the basics are covered, we can begin to look at how exactly you do the job, showing you the fundamentals needed to dip your toe into the world of basic car tuning. There are also a good few links for further reading when you’re thinking of going wild.

How to tune a car

Below, we’ve highlighted some the key areas you should focus on modifying when you tune a car. Some are a little more extreme than most would aim for, but whether you’re looking for mild performance gains or huge ones, we’ve got you covered.

How to tune a car through ECU Tuning

The easiest way to make more power, especially forced induction cars, is a remap. It wouldn’t be a guide on how to tune a car without mentioning ECU remapping. Mapping is the only way to optimize engine settings such as fueling, ignition timing and boost. Standard ECU software – otherwise known as the engine map – is written by the car manufacturer to safeguard the engine through all sorts of extreme conditions. While it’s all very comforting to know that your motor will still run halfway up a mountain or dodging penguins in the Artic, most of us will never experience these high altitudes or extreme temperatures. Tweaking the software to optimize the settings for real-world conditions, while staying in safe parameters for the engine, is an easy route to more power.

Although remapping can yield huge increases of up to 40% on an otherwise standard car, the key thing here is that it’s by far the best way of making the most of any other bolt-on tuning mods. In some cases, it’s the only way to see the desired result from another upgrade.

The truth is that your settings can only be adjusted so far by the standard sensors and the ECU software, so your car may not be fully optimized for all the extra airflow from that huge air filter, big turbo or free-flowing exhaust. A quick fiddle with your software will change all that.

It’s always a symbiotic relationship with the other hardware, though. If you’re bunging in loads of air, the software can only match it with as much fuel as the standard injectors can physically deliver. Equally you don’t want to overdo the fueling without enough airflow. In this respect software tuning is all about balance. To get the full picture, see our ECU Remapping Guide.

What is stage 1 ECU tuning?

We’re not sure who first coined stages of car tuning, but for one reason or another, it’s a phrase that’s now used universally. A stage 1 tuning is simply an ECU remap. A tuner adjusts the ECU’s parameters, namely the timing, air/fuel mixture, injectors, and on forced induction vehicles, the boost pressure, all in favor of performance. Stage 1 tuning is very effective on vehicles utilizing forced induction, as the increase in boost pressure is a surefire way of improving performance. In some case, this can be as much as 40% more power. Why? Manufacturers build cars that balance performance, reliability, emissions and economy. Therefore, you can usually tweak the engine’s settings for more power, but this could be at the expense of reliability, emissions and economy.

What is stage 2 ECU tuning?

A stage 1 tune is usually very mild, and in most cases, should be safe for your engine and other hardware components. However, it is always worth considering upgrading other hardware components, like those mentioned in this article, in order to increase reliability. A cool, breathable engine is a happy engine, so your first port of call after a stage 1 tune should be to improve airflow and cooling. Once you’ve added components such as an intercooler, air intake and exhaust system, you’ll be ready for a stage 2 tune. This is a slightly more aggressive ECU remap, that will start to test the limits of other, very expensive parts, including your engine’s internals, turbo, and transmission.

At this stage, you’ll need to start considering upgrading parts of the engine’s internals, think pistons and conrods. The gearbox might also be at its limits. If it’s an semi-auto box, uprated clutch packs are in order. If it’s a manual, you’ll certainly be needing an upgrades clutch and flywheel. You can read more about engine strengthening further down.

Performance air filters

Increasing airflow allows your car to burn more fuel. So, that’s where we’re heading next in our guide on how to tune a car.

Every modern car has an airflow sensor that monitors the amount of air entering the engine, this helps the ECU work out the optimum air:fuel mix. When the volume of air increases, the sensor tells the ECU to bung in more fuel and you get more grunt.

The easiest way to increase flow is to fit a performance air filter. These come in all shapes and sizes, but what they all have in common is that they’re designed to allow a larger volume of air to pass through, while still filtering out any harmful particulates.

In most cases, a paper filter sits inside the factory airbox. This is great for filtration, but not for airflow. Performance filters are washable and designed for long term use, but the real magic is in the materials used for the filtration element. These reduce a huge amount of the restriction, allowing your engine to suck in more air.  There are various types of filter available. From performance panel filters which slot into the standard housing, to induction kits designed to not only free up the restriction caused by the airbox itself, but to incorporate oversized cone filters with a lager surface area to flow even more air.

Different filter systems will yield different results. You’ll have to weigh up the gains and how much you’d like to spend. That said, there’s a system for every budget, making a filter swap one of the all-time great basic car tuning mods. Check out our full Performance Air Filter Guide to help you find yours. We’ve also got a good to the best car air filters, check it out!

Performance exhausts

Next up on our car tuning guide is an obvious one, performance exhausts. If your induction setup controls how effectively your engine can breathe in, your exhaust takes care of the breathing out. Exhaust systems are there to get the waste gasses out of the cylinders. In performance terms, the more efficiently you can do this, the quicker the engine can get back to burning the good stuff, effectively making you more power. Just like a performance filter, a performance exhaust is all about eliminating restrictions. This is why they’re designed to be as free-flowing as possible, while remaining within the realms of practicality.

In an ideal world you’d have an arrow-straight pipe or hardly any exhaust, but that’s rarely possible. First your system needs to follow a particular route to the back of the car, and it’s almost never a straight line. Second, having no restrictions at all (none of the silencers, resonators and backboxes) would make your exhaust uncomfortably loud.

Designing a performance exhaust is a feat of engineering designed to optimize gas flow without making the car undrivable. Manufacturers will look to cut down on restrictions through clever tweaks such as smoothing out the bends, using a larger diameter pipe and fitting smaller, less-restrictive silencers and backboxes.

Big vs small diameter pipes

To tune a car, all you need is a whacking great exhaust then? Well, no. There’s more science to it. Turbocharged cars love the most free-flowing exhaust possible, while N/A engines can actually benefit from a little scavenging in a smaller pipe. There’s also the fact that a ‘full-system’ goes far beyond the bit at the back; there are downpipes, manifolds and different types of backbox to consider, too. For the full lowdown take a peek at our Guide To Exhausts. For the best manufacturers, check out our guide to the best exhausts in 2023.

Emission control systems

Forget those cheeky German manufacturers fiddling their CO2 figures, here we’re talking about the emission control devices that have always had the biggest impact on engine tuning. Again, we’re looking at standard parts that cause restrictions, and typically the biggest cause of backpressure in your exhaust system will be the device used by the car maker to keep the emissions down.

In the US, all petrol cars since 1975 has needed a catalytic convertor to meet federally mandated emissions standards. In the UK, all petrol cars registered after 1993 must feature a catalytic converter to pass an MOT emissions test. And, since 2018, all diesel cars must have a working diesel particulate filter. A catalyst works by promoting a chemical reaction to turn noxious gases into CO2, while a DPF is basically a filter that catches and burns off the soot kicked out by a diesel engine.

While the way they work differs, cats and DPFs ultimately create a barrier to optimum gas flow. So, assuming you’d actually like to drive on the street, that’s where high-flow replacements come in.

De-cats and sports cats

As with other performance exhaust parts, the idea is to offer an upgrade that lets gas flow through more quickly. The only real difference is that these free-flowing options still have to do the same job of keeping emissions to an acceptable, not to mention legal, level.

The good news is that nowadays performance (or sports) cats are widely available. Many offer direct, bolt-on fitment, making them the ultimate mod to complement any performance exhaust system. High-flow DPFs are a little less common, and often come in the form of universal items designed to be welded into a custom system, again these can be extremely effective and offer up to 50% better flow over standard.

Be sure to check out our more in-depth guide to exhaust downpipes, sports cats and de-cats.

Cooling

Keeping your temperatures down and drawing in colder air is imperative when looking at how to tune a car. Cold air is denser than warm air – it contains more oxygen by volume – and, as you already know, more oxygen means more fuel can be burned. In fact, sucking in a load of warm air can lose you power. It can also lead to engine failure through pre-ignition, otherwise known as pinging or engine knock.

There’s two distinct ways of getting denser air into your engine. The simplest is by picking up the coldest air possible in the first place. Nowadays there’s plenty of well-designed induction kits that will position the air filter strategically in the front bumper or grille for maximum airflow.

Intercoolers

The second way is physically cooling the air with an intercooler, which is basically a radiator for the air charge passing through it. Aside from extreme motorsport applications, intercoolers are reserved for turbocharged vehicles.

Turbos get hot because they spool off the exhaust gasses and this means that, almost inevitably, the compressed air they’re pushing into the engine will soak up some heat on the way through. Car manufacturers will fit an intercooler in-between the turbo and the engine as a simple safety (anti-pre-ignition) device. The good news is that there’s various intercooler upgrades that offer better cooling to make the air even denser, this increases power and reliability at the same time.

Switching to a direct-fit alloy replacement will dissipate heat more effectively. Then there may be the option to upgrade to a larger capacity intercooler. In many performance applications, you’ll find that opting for a front mounted intercooler (FMIC) can see more gains. For more information, and other handy hints for keeping temperatures down, check out our guide to keeping your car cool. We’ve also got a guide to both intercoolers and radiators to help you understand how they operate.

Forced induction car tuning

Forced induction is exactly what it says on the tin, the use of an air compressor to create boost and force it into the cylinders. This boost (or, technically speaking, compressed air delivered at more than atmospheric pressure) has more oxygen by volume, and guess what? That’s right; it allows you to burn more fuel. If you’re looking at how to tune a car for ultimate power, this is an important step.

Superchargers and turbos essentially do the same job, only in different ways. A turbocharger uses the exhaust gasses to spin a turbine on one side, sucking in fresh air on the other, while a supercharger is driven directly off the engine. Turbos are far more common, but the tuning principle is always the same. Modifying your standard item with uprated internals for more airflow, or simply replacing it for one with a larger capacity, will inherently give you the potential for more power.

There are a couple of downsides. Strapping on a large turbo will always create a certain amount of lag – a delay between pressing the throttle and getting full boost – because the larger the turbo, the longer it will take to spool up. So, you need to find a balance between outright power and drivability. While superchargers create no lag, there’s no denying that they can be a little brutal on the wallet.

There’s also the question of conversions – bolting on a forced induction system to an engine that doesn’t have one from the factory. This has been extremely successful for many a tuner over the years but, it does require more consideration when it comes to supporting mods. For the answers to all your questions about blowers and those magical metal snails, check out our full guides to Turbochargers and Superchargers.

Camshafts and other engine internals

Talking about camshafts may be a bit of a wildcard here but, swapping out your cams for performance items can still be useful, particularly for squeezing more power out of N/A engines. Therefore, we’ll conclude our guide on how to tune a car here.

All you really need to know about these is that they have the job of opening the valves which let the air/fuel charge into the cylinders and the exhaust gasses out. When it comes to power tuning, the further you can ‘lift’ the valves, and leave them open over a longer ‘duration’, the more charge/gas you can let past. Performance camshafts do this by utilizing specially engineered cams, making them a powerful tool in the tuning arsenal. For more info on performance cams, check out our full Camshaft Guide.

As for the other engine internals – forged pistons, crankshafts, conrods and the like – uprated items are the only route to strengthening the engine enough to stand up to other influences, such as huge amounts of boost or driving that’s on the fruiter side. But, reliability aside, choosing the right internals can also have a huge impact on tuning. Stroker kits for example, contain pistons, rods and a crank designed to increase the cylinder capacity without having to physically bore out the block and fit larger pistons. OK, it’s not exactly one for beginners, but transforming your 2-litre motor into a 2.4 is always going to raise an eyebrow or two. Check out our Strengthening Engine Internals Guide for everything you ever needed to know.

Tuning a car with independent throttle bodies

Next up on our guide to how to tune a car are independent throttle bodies. These are far from basic, or cheap for that matter, but they get an honorable mention because ITBs are one of the ultimate induction mods. What these little puppies do is replace everything from the airbox right up to the cylinder head – the filter, the intake manifold, the lot. Perhaps most importantly they also replace the standard single throttle body – the part that controls the air entering the inlet – with a separate throttle body for each cylinder.

With a massive volume of air directed straight into the cylinders, as you can imagine, there’s not much in the way of restrictions, and because you don’t have to wait for air to fill an entire induction system before it gets into the engine, you also get instant throttle response.

In most cases aftermarket ITB setups are used to tune N/A engines, although there are some out there who have been known to turbocharge them, too. So, if your intake kit isn’t quite cutting the ketchup, check out our Throttle Bodies Guide… and then start saving! You’ll also need some ECU tuning for the engine to work in harmony.

Car tuning FAQs

Now we’ve covered off each area of the car you can tune to get more power, you’ve likely got some questions. We’ve put together some frequently asked questions below to help you along your car tuning journey.

Can you tune a car yourself?

The short answer is yes. While some of the work above will need to be carried out by specialists, some you can fit on your driveway at home. For example, things like exhausts and air filters or intakes are relatively easy items to install. If you’ve got access to a set of jack stands to keep the car off the ground, then you should have no issue fitting them.

The more complicated areas come with ECU tuning and other engine work. While some do decide to map cars themselves, this involves far more experience and knowledge. Adjusting air fuel mixtures, ignition timing and more can be detrimental to your engine should you do it wrong. Upping boost pressures may seem like a great idea, however, if your turbo or other components are not strong enough to withstand the extra pressure, it’ll be a very expensive repair bill. We would advise leaving this to a reputable tuner, someone who has experience with your type of vehicle and engine, and also has good reviews from other customers. This is not an area you want to play about with. Trust us, we’ve blown up enough engines over the years by pushing things too far!

If you do want to tune a car yourself, there are a number of different pieces of equipment you will need. Not least, you’ll need to know whether your car’s ECU has the capability to be tuned. You can find out more by visiting our guide to ECU remapping.

How much does it cost to tune a car?

This is a bit of an open-ended question, as it all depends on how far you want to take things. If you’re looking for a sensible remap to unlock a few more horsepower, remaps can start from $/£300 and travel right up to $/£800 or more depending on your car and level of tune. If you want more power, you’ll likely have to start looking at other hardware upgrades. Be sure to check out the list above for information on those areas, but for now, those will be cooling (air filter/intake and intercooler), exhaust systems (including sports cat/decat), spark plugs, fuel pressure pump and more. At this level, you’re looking at anything from $/£2000 upwards, plus the cost of another remap to reap the rewards of those upgrades.

For big engine builds, forged internals, bigger turbos etc., you’ll be looking at $/£10,000 up to any amount you want. The fully forged engines and transmission that Underground Racing build with over 2000hp in Lamborghinis cost in the hundred of thousands of dollars. There isn’t an upper limit here, just how deep your pockets are and how far you’re willing to go.

Can you tune any car?

Technically speaking, yes. The question you should be asking yourself is should you? Some cars lean themselves more towards tuning. Think your Japanese performance cars, muscle cars, or pretty much any fast saloon, sports car or hot hatch.

Should you tune your 1.0-liter-engined car? How much power do you want from it? We wouldn’t deny anyone the pleasure of modifying their car, we’ve built our business around showcasing the very best of car modifications across the globe. But, pouring a heap load of cash into a humdrum car is likely going to end with you having spent far too much money getting a limited amount of extra power.

Be smart. If you’ve got a 3.0-liter turbocharged BMW then sure, a remap is likely going to unlock a lot of extra power. And further upgrades could see that figure jump quickly. In a base VW Polo, you aren’t going to see great results unless you start opening the engine up and completely rebuilding it with stronger parts, a different fuel system and more. At a cost which you could have used to buy a better base car to begin with.

Are there downsides to car tuning?

Like anything in life, if it all seems too good to be true, it likely is. What people don’t tell you about car tuning is that the further you go with improving power, the likelihood of you hitting problems increases. In the pursuit of performance, there will always be a limiting factor along the way. Perhaps the pistons aren’t strong enough to deal with increased boost pressure, perhaps the transmission isn’t capable of more torque. You may need to increase the diameter of your exhaust further. There are a heap of parts that need consideration when car tuning to ensure you don’t blow your engine up. Do you research and speak to car tuners.

Another downside, and one that we see a lot of people falsely saying online, is that “a remap will improve fuel economy and performance”. No. You either have one or the other. If you do see improved fuel economy, it’s likely because there was an issue previously that was causing more fuel to be burnt. Manufacturers tune cars to meet a number of different regulations, so it becomes a balance between economy, emissions, performance and reliability. If you tune for more performance, the others have to give slightly. That’s not to say that a remap would now make your car unreliable, or suddenly terrible on fuel, but it does put more stress on engine components nonetheless. Plus, the basic principle of more power is more air fuel mixture. Kind of a given you’ll use more fuel once tuned!

Is car insurance affected by tuned or modified cars?

In short, yes. It’s likely that any non-standard part you fit to you car is going to affect your car insurance premium. This is sometimes as simple as an admin fee to add the modifications to your policy, or it’s going to affect the whole premium price. It all depends on the modifications. Things like brakes and suspension have less of an impact on cost as say increasing the overall power output of your car. This is presuming that the brakes and suspension modifications are legal, of course. The one thing I’d like to reiterate here is that there are a number of factors at play, and we couldn’t possibly answer each scenario. But where you live in the world, what car you drive and what level of modifications you have done can all vastly change your insurance costs.

A car that produced 280bhp at factory that now has forged engine internals, bigger turbos and more that now produces something like 500-600bhp is going to impact the cost most significantly. In fact, you’ll find that a lot of insurers simply won’t bother quoting you at all. You’ll likely have to go to a specialist insurer in that field in order to get a sensible quote. For less impactful modifications, you’ll find a broader number of options at less cost. But it’s a case by case basis, a 21 year old insuring a modified BMW M3 is going to pay a whole lot more than a 47 year old with a clean license insuring the same modified M3…

The post How To Tune a Car appeared first on Fast Car.

As another year rolls around – and we all get another year older – the one plus side, other than show season being just around the corner, is that we know we can always expect a fresh batch of new wheels to drop on the aftermarket.

Those familiar with how the aftermarket works will be only to aware that approaching the end of the year we’re always guaranteed to see a bunch of new rolling stock debut at events like the The SEMA Show in Las Vegas, Germany’s Essen Motorshow, The Tokyo Auto Salon in Japan and the UK’s Autosport International. Here, in our Best Aftermarket Wheels for 2024, we’ve rounded up the crème de la crème (it’s French for ‘cream of the crop’) for your viewing pleasure.

Choose your aftermarket wheels

As always, in our best aftermarket wheels guide, there are styles and prices to suit most people’s budgets. We’ve got everything from your entry level cast wheels, middle of the road flow-formed items, right up to fully-forged mono blocks and multi-piece modular rims utilizing exotic materials. I know, we’re good to you lot…

Different types of alloy wheel finishes

It is what it says on the (paint) tin. Painting and lacquering is the most popular finish on both factory and aftermarket rolling stock. It’s not quite as easy as dabbing on a bit of that old magnolia emulsion from the shed and spraying on a bit of the fixative left over from your high school art classes though. The paint and subsequent lacquer used in alloy wheel finishing needs to be heat resistant enough to deal with the temperatures generated by the brakes, tough enough to withstand most gravel and road dirt and survive harsh winters and hot summers.

The process is a precise science too with even coats on intricate shapes and cure temperatures and timings all guarded secrets by the industry’s top dogs.  Many people prefer powder coating as a refurbishment option which we’ll come to in a minute but a decent paint and lacquer finish is often the way to get that purist friendly OEM look on point.

What are powder coated wheels

Powder coating is fantastic for creating a tough long lasting finish. Most parts will have a similar appearance to their painted counterparts but powder coating is a dry finishing process that utilizes small ground particles of pigment and resin mixture that are electrostatically charged before being sprayed onto electrically grounded parts so that they stick to them. The charged powder particles adhere to the wheel and are held in place until melted and fused into a uniform coating in a curing oven. The aforementioned durability is the trump card of this process and the comparatively fast turn around also goes in its favor. There’s always a downside though and this only rears its head with the most intricate of wheel designs. Powder coating is thicker than paint and thus with tiny details and crisp lines, it is possible to lose a bit of definition and sharpness of lines.

Anodized wheels

Anodizing is an etched in process that coats the wheel with a protective layer by electrolysis. It produces a satin look which is ideal for those after a more subtle of utilitarian finish or for the rarely seen inner rims. Like powder coating, its a durable and low maintenance finish but the nature of the process limits the variation in textures.

Diamond cut wheels

The clue is in the name again with this process. It involves removing a thin layer of alloy layer of a alloy from the wheel using a specialist diamond hard lathe. Logically, there is a limit to the amount of times a wheel can safely be ‘cut’ and many opt for a bright powder coated finish for ease of maintenance and durability. However, there’s never a substitute for the real McCoy and if your car rocks rims that were originally diamond cut and they’ve not been repeatedly been through the mill, sometimes that authenticity box just needs to be ticked.

Chrome honey spokes just kicked in, yo!

What are chrome wheels?

Chrome wheels are more commonly seen in custom and classic scenes but do creep into the modified scene with the brightest of show cars and those ‘anything goes’ events that act as a car culture melting pot. Chroming has been around for longer that your mom’s mom and it’s a time consuming, and quite dangerous process that  goes some way to explaining the high costs associated with it. Several layers of metal are sprayed onto the wheel including nickel and sometimes copper. Chrome plating is a technique of electroplating a tin layer of chromium onto a metal object. The process involves buffing, polishing, cleaning, dipping in acid, adding zinc and copper plating.

For show chrome, the process is finished by re-buffing, cleaning and re-dipping, plating added copper, two to three types of nickel plating and finally, the chrome plating. The pros include that next level bling you see on the finest rods and lowriders and the fact that the extra metal employed in the process can add strength. The obvious downside is that it adds a lot of weight, hence you won’t see an awful lot of it on a track day. Chrome can flake if the process is rushed or if its isn’t regularly polished and protected. Because of the nature of chroming, it is impossible to create a localized repair. The wheel will need to be stripped and the process started from scratch. Nobody said it was going to be easy and all that.

Best aftermarket alloy wheels

Rotiform ROC-H

RRP: From $1150. Buy them here. 

First seen last year on Ken Block’s Audi Sport recreation, then on a number of cars at SEMA, Rotiform’s ROC-H is the result of a collaboration between the wheel manufacture and the Hoonigan brand (The H stands for Hoonigan). Originally seen as a forged monoblock, the motorsport-inspired wheel is actually part of Rotiform’s Custom spec forge range, meaning it is also available as a two- and three-piece wheel – so, fitment options are practically endless.

Tech spec

Available in: Rotifom’s Custom Spec range, so all sizes, widths and dimensions available to suit you vehicle. Wheel type: Forged one-, two- or three-piece. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Custom (15 colors to choose from)

Where to buy: Find your local Rotiform dealer

Rotiform ZWS

RRP: From $1300 / £1256. Buy them here.

Following the positive reaction to the high-end forged version of its ZWS, Rotiform recently launched a cast monoblock alternative should appeal to the masses. Well, to anybody that can tuck a set of 21in wheels under their arches. Available in Gloss Anthracite and Matte Black, these ‘Dubs’ are clearly aimed at the SUV market.

Tech spec

Available in: 21in diameter. 9-12in widths. 5×112×5×120 PCD. ET10 to 55 offset. 66.56 – 72.56mm center bore. Weight: 37lb – 40lb. Wheel type: C monoblock. Colors available: Gloss Anthracite and Matte Black

Price comparison specs may not match the ones required for you car. Always check measurements before buying.

Enkei Triumph Aftermarket Wheels

RRP: starting from $449/£359 per wheel. Buy them here.

Enkei’s all-new Triumph is a lightweight ten-spoke that uses the same MAT Technology used in producing its legendary RPF1 wheel and is sure to be a favorite with JDM owners. Available in 17in and 18in, the Triumph can be selected in Gloss Black, Matte Bronze or Storm Grey.

Tech spec

Available in: 17-18in diameter. 8-9.5in widths. 5×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET38 to 45 offset. 72.6mm center bore. Weight: From 26lbs. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Gloss Black, Matte Bronze or Storm Grey

Borbet GTX

RRP: starting from $318/£260 per wheel. Buy them here.

If you’re looking at the best aftermarket wheels for 2023 and after a timeless wheel in 19 or 20in diameter, then there’s a good chance Borbet’s new ten-spoke GTX is the one. Available in 5×112 and 5×120 PCDs, the GTX comes with a two year warranty and full TUV approval and a selection of finishes including Matte Gold, Gloss Titan or Matte Black with a polished lip.

Tech spec

Available in: 19-20in diameter. 8.5-10in widths. 5×112-5×120 PCD. ET21 to 40 offset. 66.5 – 72.5mm center bore. Weight: Not known. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Matte Gold, Gloss Titan or Matte Black with a polished lip

Price comparisons below are for base spec wheel. Always check measurements before buying.

WORK Gnosis IS 205 Aftermarket Wheels

RRP: From $600 per wheel. 

Launched at the Tokyo Auto Salon, WORK’s all-new Gnosis IS 205 features a funky, split five-spoke design that has additional splits inside every other spoke. Available in 19, 20 and 21in diameters, the 205 is a single-piece cast wheel that you can order in Trans Grey Clear or a Brushed finish.

Tech spec

Available in: 19-21in diameter. 8-9in widths. 5×112 – 5×114.3 PCD. ET35 to 45 offset. Various center bores. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Trans Grey Clear or Brushed

Where to buy: WORK Wheels

17″ Compomotive MO6

RRP: From $358/£285 per wheel. Buy them here.

Who doesn’t love Compomotive’s motorsport wheels and who doesn’t remember the original flat-faced, five spoke MO? Well, the British company’s extremely popular MO6 (or MO1785 to give it its correct name) is back for 2023 and better than ever thanks to the following 17″ fitment options…

Tech spec

Available in: 17in diameter. 8in widths. 4×100.3 PCD. ET20 to 42 offset. Various center bores. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: White, Gold, Silver & Anthracite Grey

Where to buy: Compomotive Wheels

MOMO SEVEN Aftermarket Wheels

Well, the clue really is in the name with this one. After a string of rather fussy road wheel designs, Italian firm MOMO really have got their act together with the SEVEN. A sleek, ‘seven’-spoke monoblock that features a Matte Black center with polished outer lip, this wheel comes in 18in and 19in diameters and a number of fitments. Two too many spokes? Don’t fret, they also just launched the FIVE as well. We’ll leave you to work out what that looks like…

Tech spec

Available in: 18-19in diameter. 8-8.5in widths. Various five-stud PCD. Various fitments. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Matte Black with polished lip

Where to buy: MOMO

mbDESIGN SF1 (Centrelock)

RRP: From $700/£650 per wheel. Buy them here.

German firm, mbDESIGN recently launched a centerlock version of its popular SF1 wheel in a staggered fitment. The forged monoblock, which features a unique, intricate design, is aimed specifically at owners of cars such as the 992 GT3. For the 992 Porsche, a staggered 9.5 x 21in and 12 x 22in fitment will work perfectly, with center bores and offsets to suit the car specifically. Amazingly, the 21in wheels tips the scales at just 9.6kg!

Tech spec

Available in: 21-22in diameter. 9.5 and 12in widths. ET40 offset. Centerlock center bore. Weight: 9.6kg – 12.4 kg. Wheel type: Forged centerlock monoblock. Colors available: Matte Light Bronze and Matte Black

mbDESIGN MSP

RRP: From $350/£320 per wheel. Buy them here.

If you don’t own a supercar, but you still want to make your car stand out, then mbDESIGN’s MSP will certainly do that. The unique, flow-formed monoblock comes in 8.5 x 19in dimensions, with a wide range of fitments (from 5 x 108 to 5 x 114.3) and finishes. Personally, we like the darker shades, like the Matt Black and Black Smoke Polish, but there are plenty of others to choose from.

Tech spec

Available in: 19in diameter. 8.5in widths. 5×108 – 5×114.3 PCD. ET45 to 75 offset. 57.06 – 75.00mm center bore. Weight: 12.6kg. Wheel type: Flow-formed monoblock. Colors available: Wide selection of finishes

3SDM 3.85-FR Aftermarket Wheels

RRP: Request a quote here. 

Like most of 3SDM’s modular range, the 3.85 is made to order and thus available in a number of fits and finishes. This classic five-spoke reminds us of a classic Formula 1 wheel and is actually only available in center lock. With a forged center, dimensions of 13-17 in are on the table and pretty much any offset you can desire.

Tech spec

Available in: 13-17in diameter. Choose your widths. Center-lock only PCD. Various offset. Weight: Depends on dimensions. Wheel type: Forged three-piece. Colors available: Vast choice

3SDM 1.53-R

Get a quote here.

The post Best Aftermarket Wheels For Your Modified Car appeared first on Fast Car.

If you’re smart with your upgrades, modifying a car can be more affordable than you might imagine. To prove it, we’ve compiled a list of as many budget car mods we could think of that cost less than 100 quid. Most of them cost much less than half that, and some are even totally free!

However, this list of budget car mods does come with a word of warning. Not all of them will work on your car. And it isn’t a case of the more of these you can throw at it the merrier.

But a careful selection of a few choice upgrades from our list will see your car looking or performing better than before. So, let’s take a closer look at the best DIY budget car mods you can do today!

Budget car mods under $10/£10

1 – De-Badging

There are a number of reasons why you might want to de-badge your car. Maybe your badges have discolored or delaminated over time and their crummy appearance is letting the car down. Maybe you don’t want everyone to know that you’re driving a 1.1 or a Popular Plus. And the number one reason that most people do it (for the same reason that they like to remove their rear wipers) is that it cleans up the lines of the car. Everyone likes a smooth rear end, right?

It’s a piece of cake to do, too. All you need is a hair-dryer and some fishing wire: heat the badge up so the glue softens, then slowly and gently drag the wire behind it to separate it from the car. Then all you’ve got to do is remove any residue with some adhesive remover.

2 – Tow Strap

It is designed as a recovery aid for track cars, so tow straps have become a common upgrade on street cars too – mainly because they look cool.

3 – Remove Weight

Lighter cars are faster cars. Fact. So bin anything you don’t need for a free performance boost. Improving your power-to-weight ratio will make better use of your car’s power, and reducing weight is easy. You can start by removing all the junk in your boot that you don’t need to be carrying about, emptying out the glovebox and cubbyholes, and then think about what else you don’t need.

Ever carry passengers in the back? If not, the rear seats can go. Don’t mind a bit of noise? All that heavy sound deadening can go in the bin. Your stereo system along with its speakers and all the wiring can weigh a surprising amount. And maybe skip that second round of toast at breakfast time. It all adds up.

4 – Gloss Black Plastics

Your plastics have a habit of fading over time. Don’t take it personally, that’s just how plastic behaves. Exposure to the sun’s UV rays over the years causes it to discolor, and this is particularly noticeable when you’ve just cleaned the car and the rest of it’s looking all shiny.

Thankfully, there’s a raft of plastic resto options available, and they all work in essentially the same way: first of all you wash the trim/bumpers/etc. to ensure it’s totally clean, then wait for it to be completely dry. Then you apply the trim restorer, massaging it thoroughly in to allow it to penetrate. Once it’s dry, you then just give it a wipe to remove any excess, and bish bash bosh – your cruddy grey trim is now a pleasing glossy black.

5 – Battery Tie Down

Ditch the horrible standard battery tie-down for a shiny aluminum alternative.

Cost: from £10

6 – Crackle Paint

Not as common as it once was, but crackle/wrinkle paint finishes can transform the look of an engine bay.
Cost: from £6

Budget car mods under $25/£25

7 – Stereo

A decent headunit with loads of connectivity can be had within budget, perfect for hooking your iPhone up to older models.
Cost: from £25

8 – Headlamp restoration

As cars age, it’s pretty common for their headlamps to go milky and cloudy and start to look a bit rubbish. Not only does this ruin the look of the front end of your car, but if it gets bad enough then it can be an MOT issue too. But fear not, it’s actually pretty easy to remedy, and just takes a bit of elbow grease!

Now, internet old wives’ tales will tell you that you can fix it with a bit of toothpaste, and you’re very welcome to give that a go, but there’s also a whole bunch of products on the market specifically designed to restore your headlights and get them gleaming and crystal clear again. The usual suspects such as Meguiar’s, Autoglym, Holts, ArmorAll and Turtle Wax have some great kits on offer – and you’ll be surprised at the difference it’ll make to your car’s look overall. If you want to know more, check out our full headlight restoration guide!

9 – Black Eye Headlights

Prize the lens apart and spray the insides black for an upgrade to an OEM-plus look. All it takes is a rattle can and a spare afternoon.

Cost: from £11

10 – Steering wheel refurb

Don’t want an aftermarket wheel, but wish yours was better. Refurb it using a dedicated repair kit.
Cost: £25

11 – Cold Air Feeds

Colder air is better for your engine and your brakes – get it in there!

It’s super easy to create cold air feeds to your brakes – get some flexible ducting pipework, fix one end somewhere that it’ll be getting plenty of airflow (a front lower grille, for instance), and route it so that the other end feeds to the brakes. Make sure it’s all safely and securely affixed, and won’t be getting in the way of any moving parts, and hey presto!

Cost: from £15

12 – Leather Refurb

A quick touch-up and your seats can look like they’re brand new again. If you need it, we’ve got a full guide to cleaning car seats too.

Costs: from £17

13 – Number Plates

Not tacky fonts and 3D lettering, or illegal styles, but custom plates can look quite good. Maybe consider some tasteful pressed aluminum plates? As long as they’re showing the legal font size, spacing, colors and reflectiveness and are acquired from a proper supplier, they’re totally legit and look great.

Costs: from £20

14 – Rim Protectors

Cheap, easy to apply, looks cool (to some people), and could save your precious alloys from a grizzly kerb strike – what’s not to like?

Cost: from £25

15 – Headlight Bulb Upgrade

Switch to some decent bulbs (HID conversion kits are even within budget) for improved night driving. To learn more, check out this guide.

Cost: from £20

16 – Heat Shielding/Heat Wrap

Keep your under-bonnet temperatures under control with some heat shielding or heat wrap.
Cost: from £14

17 – Camber Bolts

Sort your alignment with some camber correction bolts.
Cost: £20

18 – Fire Extinguisher

Nobody wants to think about it, but a handheld fire extinguisher can save your pride and joy should the worst happen. Get one in the car!
Cost: from £16

19 – Bonnet Struts

Fed up with having a bonnet stay? Convert to gas struts, there are kits available for most models.
Cost: from £15

20 – Engine Protection

Additives like Liqui Moly’s Ceratec provide extra protection for the insides of your engine.
Cost: £18

21 – Wheel Nuts

Nice new wheels, and rusty old wheel nuts? Sort it out! New wheel nuts cost as little as £20.
Cost: from £20

22 – Caliper Refurb kit

Refresh your stopping power with a DIY refurb kit for your calipers.
Cost: from £20

23 – Locking wheel nuts

If you’ve grown attached to your alloys, you’ll want to keep them on your car. New lockers can be picked up for £35.
Cost: from £35

24 – Boost Gauge

Who doesn’t want to watch the little red dancing around as you accelerate? All turbo cars need a boost gauge.
Cost: from £15

Budget car mods under $50/£50

25 – Steering Wheel

Aftermarket steering wheels can be had on a budget these days and improve both the looks of the interior and the feel when driving. Safety is key here, so do your research.
Cost: From £45

26 – Cleaning Kits

It sounds simple but a clean car looks better than a dirty one. Invest in some decent cleaning gear and get your Ford looking its best.
Cost: from £28

27 – Panel Filter

This has got to be the single easiest power mod it’s possible to carry out, and it does have measurable gains too. It’s a no-brainer. See, if you think of your car’s engine essentially being a big air pump (or better yet, a set of lungs), the fundamental way it works relies on you cramming a load of clean air into one end, then efficiently extracting it all from the other once it’s all dirty. And if you want to improve your car’s breathing but don’t have the ready cash to shell out on an induction kit with a great big cone, then a drop-in air filter upgrade is the next best thing.

All the big-name specialists have something to offer, from K&N and Pipercross to Ramair and beyond; they’re surprisingly affordable, and all you need to do is open up the car’s air box, take out the standard filter, and slot in your new freer-flowing one. Easy-peasy.

Cost: from £30

28 – Strut Braces

Flexing is all well and good in the club, but you don’t want to be doing that too much on a B-road. And flex is a characteristic inherent to any car, that’s just physics. Imagine twisting the opposite corners of the lid of a tub of margarine – that’s what you car’s trying to do every time you go around a corner. But don’t worry, there are things you can do to mitigate this, and a strut brace is an excellent starting point.

This is essentially a rigid bar that you bolt to your suspension strut towers to tie them together, which will significantly improve axle rigidity. And once you’ve got one going across your front struts, there’s a whole world of additional braces to consider, from lower subframe and under-body braces to K-braces for the back end.

Cost: from £50

28 – Speaker Upgrade

Upgrading your car’s speakers is one of those age-old mods we’ve been doing from time immemorial, and it’s always a good idea (unless you’ve got a fancy-pants Bentley with a factory Naim system or something). And we’re not just talking about loudness here, but quality: OEM speakers are generally specified to a budget, and it’ll make a big difference to swap in some quality replacements from an audio name you’ve heard of.

It can sometimes take a few brave pills to unclip all of your trim and hope it’ll all go back together again, but as long as you take your time and take it easy, you’ll be on to a winner. Look, we’ve even got a whole guide on how to fit car speakers to help you on your way.

Cost: from £50

29 – HT Leads

Improve reliability and add some color to the engine bay at the same time.

Cost: from £40

31 – Flocking

Flocked interior pieces give your car a real motorsport vibe as well as reducing glare and looking a million times better than tacky plastics. Prices for full dashes start outside our budget (from around £130), but smaller trim pieces can be flocked for a lot less.

Cost: from £30

32 – Poly Bushes

You won’t get a full set of bushes for £99, but you will pick up specific kits within budget and be able to replace your worn ones with performance upgrades. Be sure to check out our suspension bushes guide!

Cost: from £30

33 – Caliper Paint

This a quick and easy way to spruce up your brakes – just don’t stick Brembo decals on them after you’ve painted them!

Cost: £28

34 – Silicone Hoses

Full kits will be out of budget, but an induction hose will add some color to the engine bay and improve reliability.

Cost: from £40

35 – Hydro dipping

Water transfer printing, or hydro dipping, can give some cool effects and works on pretty much anything that can be painted.

Cost: from £50

36 – Brake Pads

Performance pads can be had within budget and will make a noticeable difference behind the wheel. Here’s how to fit them.

Cost: from £50

37 – Gearbox Mount

Lower torque mounts or gearbox mounts are prone to failure, replace them with a polyurethane upgrade.

Cost: from £30

38 – Quick Shift Kit

Sharper gear changes for a more spirited driving experience.

Cost: from £50

39 – Wheel Spacers

Wheel spacers used to have a bit of a bad reputation, back in the era when it was just a case of bolting a dumb lump of metal between the hub and the wheel. But technology’s moved on a bit, and today’s aftermarket offers all manner of high-quality hubcentric spacers. Hubcentric essentially means that they’re machined specifically to fit the wheel exactly as the hub’s locating ring would, so that the car’s weight is being correctly carried by the hub and not by the wheel bolts (which is where the bad rep came from in the first place).

Why fit wheel spacers? Well, because they’ll make your car look cooler – spacing your wheels out a bit helps them to fill out the arches better for a more aesthetically pleasing fitment. And on a more practical level, widening your car’s track can bring handling improvements, and spacing out your wheels can allow extra clearance for big brake kits too. Loads of benefits!

Cost: from £30

40 – Remote Oil Filter

Make regular filter changes easier by relocating the oil filter to make it more accessible.

Cost: £40

41 – Oil Breather Kit

A decent oil breather kit will help both engine performance and reliability, so get one fitted.

Cost: from £30

Budget car mods under $100/£100

42 – Lowering Springs

Don’t cut your springs with a grinder! Especially when proper lowering springs can be had on a budget. Exact prices depend on the brand and car in question, but kits are available for less than £99.

Cost: from £80

43 – Rust Protection

Don’t let the winter weather eat your car. Get underneath and give it a liberal coating of rust protection to keep the dreaded tin worm at bay.

Cost: From £70

44 – Geometry Setup

Technically not a modification, but a geometry setup will transform how your car feels on the road.

Cost: from £80

45 – Brake Lines

Any brake upgrade is worthwhile but braided lines are particularly cheap and easy to install offering instant benefits.

Costs: from £75

46 – Tinted Windows

Done professionally tinted windows can enhance your car’s appearance – just don’t be tempted to try it yourself as it’ll look whack! You won’t get all the glass tinted for £99, but you should be able to get the rears done.

Cost: from £99

47 – Wheel Refurb

A set of four will be out of budget, but you can get that one dodgy wheel repaired and ready for show season again. You could also check out our alloy wheel refurbishment guide to learn how to do it yourself!

Costs: from £80

48 – Rolling Road Health Check

It is not a modification but a worthwhile investment to ensure everything works as it should. Basic dyno tests are within budget.

Cost: from £75

49 – Oil Cooler

Add a decent oil cooler to help everything under control, particularly useful for track cars.

Cost: from £80

50 – Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Handy for making tuning tweaks, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a direct replacement for the stock part.

Cost: from £90

Well, we’ve come to the end of our not-so-shortlist detailing the best low-budget mods you can do, but what if you haven’t even settled on which car to use as the basis of your project yet? Well, if that’s the case, fear not – we’re here to help. Check out our guide to the best affordable beginner project cars you can buy right now on the used market. There’s bound to be something there that gets the creative juices flowing in that brain of yours!

Words by Jamie King & Dan Bevis

The post Best DIY Budget Car Mods appeared first on Fast Car.

Let’s face it, it doesn’t matter which of these five generations of Honda Civic Type R you prefer, the Type R models all have one thing in common – they were built to be driven… hard! And while the purists may prefer to run their Type Rs on the same diameter wheels the car left the factory with, don’t rule out an upgrade in diameter, especially if you fancy running a lower profile tire.

Similarly, even if you’re intending to stick with the OEM diameter wheel, opting for a wider or lighter hoop is almost a must if you’re planning on the odd track day or even just driving enthusiastically on your favorite local B-road.

Below, we’ve listed our 5 of the best wheels for the Honda Civic Type R and each of the 5 generations. We know, there are now 6 generations of Type R, but the FL5 Type R is too new for us to include, yet. So, that’s basically 25 awesome wheels for you to ogle over. From fully-forged mono blocs right through to three-piece splits, whether you’ve got mega bucks to spend or you’re on a tight budget, there’s something here for everybody. Which is your favorite, though?

Best wheels for Honda Civic Type R EK9 

First launched way back in 1997 the EK9 left the factory on 6x15in wheels, but it didn’t take long for people to start upping the anti in the diameter department. While the hardcore B-road blasting folk or track day fans will still stick with a 15in wheel – and a decent-sized sidewall – the show guys prefer a 16in wheel or even a 17in upgrade on a lower-profile tire.

As we explained in our EK9 Tuning Guide, when it comes to wheel brands, the purists will likely stick with JDM brands like Rays, Weds and Enkei, while those not so brand conscious – or with shallower pockets – can opt for something from the Rota or Japan Racing stables. Either way, just be sure to look for a low wheel weight so as not to affect the fine handling balance. As for your favorite design; well, you won’t go far wrong with any of the below…

Spoon Sports SW388

The SW388 by Spoon is available in 15in to 18in diameter and is probably our preferred choice for the EK9 thanks to its simple, timeless five-spoke design. That being said, the fully forged wheel is by no means cheap, but it is also one of the lightest and strongest wheels here.

Advan RG-D2

Advan’s RG-D2 is another motorsport-inspired wheel that’s available in diameters ranging from 15in all the way to 18in. The flow-formed wheel is a middle of the road option in terms of budget and features an open six-spoke design with a nice little dish, too.

SSR Type X

If it’s rare and iconic wheel designs you’re after then you won’t find more rare – or more iconic – than SSR’s Type X. These split four-spoke wheels seem to look great in 15in fitment and, if you can find a set, will no doubt cost you a fair few quid to purchase. Definitely a good long-term investment, though.

WORK Equip 03

If it’s multi-piece wheels you prefer and you’re looking for a bit of bling, then the WORK Equip 03 ticks all the boxes. Available in both two- and three-piece construction, plus a number of various widths, this retro-look wheel will always turn heads, no matter what color center you choose to opt for.

Japan Racing JR10

If you want to turn heads but are working to a budget, then the JR10 should be right up your street, especially as it’s available in 15in-19in diameters, plus a whole host of widths and finishes. Personally, we like the simple silver centers with a polished lip.

Best Honda Civic Type R EP3 wheels

It wasn’t until 2001 that Honda launched the EP3 Type R, which actually came as standard on 17in wheels. While most tuners choose to stick was the OEM diameter, a tire upgrade from the stock 205/45/17s to a wider 215 (or even 225) is often recommended, perhaps with a slightly lower profile tire wall.

As we stated in our EP3 Tuning Guide, the standard 17in wheels are actually quite light, so there is no enormous need to change them, but if you wish to, especially when going for a 225 wide tire, 8x17s can fit quite easily, as long as you stick to no lower than a ET35 offset. When it comes to your preferred wheel of choice, then we’d suggest one of the below which work well with the car’s wedge like appearance. 

Enkei RPF1

Enkei’s sexy RPF1 reminds us of a 90’s Formula One wheel which, when you consider Enkei made F1 wheels back then and F1 is part of the wheel’s name, that sort of makes sense. Available in dimensions ranging from 14in to 17in the split six-spoke single-piece design is simply stunning.

Work Emotion CR 2P

If ever there was a wheel that screamed ‘JDM’ then it’s WORK’s Emotion CR 2P. This deep, two-piece split-rim is available in a multitude of sizes and finishes, plus it works for either a show car or track day application. So, that’s a win, win in our book!

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2

If it’s a hardcore race-look you’re after then you can’t go far wrong with Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2. This 12-spoke, single piece wheel was inspired by the BTCC and is said to be heat treated and also super light. Available in 15in, 17in and 18”, plus a number of widths and finishes, this wheel is a no brainer for us.

Spoon Sports CR93

Spoon’s CR93 has a real OEM look to it and works especially well on the EP3 Type R. In 8.5x17in fitment the wheel tips the scales at just 21.45 lbs and the spoke design is intended to clear larger aftermarket brake calipers.

Mitsubishi Evo 8 Enkei

If it’s an OEM+ option you’re after, then a lot of people fit factory Enkei wheels that came as standard on the Mitsubishi Evo 8. This simple six-spoke designed wheel is both strong, light and affordable, plus it will clear a large caliper.

Best Honda Civic Type R FN2 wheels

Over here in Europe the third-generation of Civic Type R, Honda’s FN2, was released in 2007,  thankfully still in hatchback form (in Japan they got the saloon-bodied FD2). The FN2 was a much larger car than its predecessors, which was available as stock with an 18in wheel or even an optional 19in. Obviously, the benefit of this is that there are plenty of aftermarket options available for the car. As we mentioned in our FN2 Tuning Guide, the stock offset of ET55 does mean the wheels tuck in the arches a tad too much; ET40 fills the arches much better and still avoids clearance issues, even on an 8.0in rim. As for the type of wheel that suits this car, well it was quite a radical design which you either loved or hated. Those that bought and modified one soon realized that the simple, less fussy designed wheels worked better.

Rays VOLK CE28

The CE28 is a ten-spoke single-piece wheel available in 17in and 18in diameter, plus a number of widths and fitments. The JDM-style design features a pronounced lip and we’d say a 18in fitment finished in bronze is about as good as it gets, especially if you’re after a wheel that both looks good and performs well.

Rota Force

If you’re on a tight budget then Rota’s ten-spoke Force is a great looking wheel for a fraction of the cost of many other higher-profile brands. Available in 17in and 18in diameter, this single-piece wheel also comes in a huge number of fitments, widths and finishes. A great first aftermarket wheel choice.

OZ Racing Alleggerita HLT

Available in 17in and 18in diameters, the Alleggerita features OZ’s HLT (High Light Technology) which offers lightness and resistance, apparently. This nine-spoke motorsport inspired wheel is middle of the road in terms of pricing and is available in a number of widths and finishes.

SSR Professor SP5

If you’re after the ultimate show wheel then SSR’s Professor SP5 could well be it. While not cheap, these stunning ten-spoke split rims are available in pretty much any size and fitment you could dream up, not to mention a load of different finishes, too. Stunning!

Bola B1

If you’re after a definitive JDM-look wheel on an absolute budget then Bola’s B1 is the perfect choice for your FN2. Available in 17in to 19in diameter and in a number of widths, the B1 is a six-spoke stunner than comes in a large array of finishes.

Best Honda Civic Type R FK2 wheels

The 2015 FK2 was based on the ninth generation Civic and featured flared, touring car-inspired wheel arches, which meant plenty of room for wider wheels. While it actually came on 19in wheels as stock, the low-profile tires meant an extra firm ride so we’d suggest dropping down to 18in and fitting a tire with a deeper tire wall. As we mentioned in our FK2 Tuning Guide, a high offset of ET60 pushes the wheels well into the arches and you get a hell of a lot of arch gap which really doesn’t help the aesthetics, however, a set of 20mm spaces can sort this. Thankfully, the choice of aftermarket wheels on offer, due to its 5×120 fitment, is massive.

OZ Ultralegerra

Motorsport-inspired wheels don’t come much more iconic than OZ’s Ultralegerra which, let’s be honest, looks good on pretty much anything but particularly suits the FK2 Type R. Made in Italy the wheel features six double spokes and comes in a huge number of diameters, fitments and finishes.

Rota P1

The Rota P1, in an 18in diameter, is about as good as it gets if you’re after a budget wheel for your FK2. This nine-spoke motorsport-inspired wheel looks particular good in the Gunmetal finish, too. Well, we think so, anyway…

Japan Racing JR29

Considering how reasonably priced the JR29 is, it has a really great look thanks to its split five-spoke design. This wheel is available in probably more configuration choices than any other here, but we’d take the 8.5x18in in Matt Bronze.

SSR GTX01

Wheel designs don’t come much more aggressive than SSR’s GTX01. Another flow formed wheel from SSR, the GTX01 has a chunky looking design that features 10-spokes and is available with a choice of three different face types (Standard, Medium and Deep Concave).

WORK Emotion D9R

The D9R by WORK is a wheel that’s extremely popular with the drift crowd, but which also looks amazing on front-wheel drive cars, like the FK2 Type R. The wheel’s lower offset gives plenty of lip and the D9R us available in a number of fits and finishes.

Best Honda Civic Type R FK8 wheels

The final model we’re looking at here is the 2017 FK8 Honda Civic Type R which was the first to come on whopping 20in wheels as standard (until the Sport Line was launched on 19in rims). In our FK8 Tuning Guide, we concluded that whatever diameter wheel you choose to run on your FK8, you’ll want a lightweight wheel, something flow-formed from the likes of APEX, or something forged (if you’re feeling flush), like the legendary TE37. Funny we should mention that…

Rays VOLK RACING TE37

When it comes to probably the most popular and highly regarded choices for FK8 wheel upgrades then the Rays Volk Racing TE37 has got to be up there. Let’s face it, these wheels look good on pretty much everything. The race-inspired wheel comes in a simple six-spoke design and works in pretty much any color. A no brainier if you’re after a timeless wheel that will always look good.  

Apex EC-7

The EC-7 is another iconic JDM wheel that comes in a choice of three increasingly concaved faces. No matter what the concave you choose, the spokes are designed to clear most aftermarket upgraded calipers. Quality really is order of the day here, but then that is reflected in the price.

WedsSport TC105X

Light, strong and stunning, that’s probably the best way to describe the WedsSport TC105X. Developed on track, the ten-spoke TC105X comes in a number of dimensions ranging from 15in up to 18in. Amazingly, even the largest sized 11×18” wheel tips the scales at just 8.6kg!

Vossen HF-5

There’s just something about the futuristic look of Vossen’s HF-5 which doesn’t just scream JDM… it also shouts FK8 Type R at the same time. The Hybrid Forged (yes, that’s the HF part of the name) wheel is available in diameters ranging from 19in to 24in and widths of 8.5in to 12in.

Desmond Regamaster Evo II

Finally, Desmond’s timeless five-spoke Regamaster Evo II is a fully-forged monobloc made in Japan that features a nice sized (45mm) dish and in 9.5x18in fitment that tips the scales at just 8.12kg. While sizes are quite limited, these are available in a number of colors.

Relevant content:

• Alloy wheels guide – learn everything you need to know about wheel dimensions.
• Alloy wheel restoration guide

The post Best Honda Civic Type R Wheels appeared first on Fast Car.

For most enthusiasts, Volkswagen’s 300ps (296bhp) all-wheel-drive Mk7 Golf R offered more than enough to get their juices flowing and pulses racing. With a sub 5-secs 0-60mph dash and 155mph (limited) top speed, it’s no wonder your average owner was happy to leave the extremely hot hatch totally stock.

Chances are, though, if you’re a Fast Car fan, then you’re not your average car owner. With that in mind, our VW Golf R Mk7 tuning guide will talk you through the various stages of upgrades available for the cult car. We breaking things down into the seven most important areas in order to keep things simple.

Remember, this was a high-end car from the factory, so if you’re planning any upgrades then we’d always suggest you opt for top quality parts over quantity. Leave the cheap add-ons, they’ll only cause you problems in the long run.

Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R History

The Mk7 Golf R’s foundations we were well a truly established in Volkswagen’s cracking Mk6 Golf R. It’s safe to say the Mk6 Golf R was a huge improvement over the somewhat uninspiring Mk5 Golf R32 it replaced. The sixth generation’s turbocharged four-cylinder EA888 motor may not have offered to same acoustics that made the Mk4 and Mk5 R32’s 24v V6 engine so popular. However, what it lacked in sound it more than made up for with power and tuning potential.

Needless to say, when the Mk7 Golf R arrived in 2007, it certainly had some big shoes to fill, but the all-new chassis and revised Gen 3 motor was more than capable of doing that. Despite being a brilliant all-rounder out of the box, though, many enthusiasts found the factory Mk7 R’s specification to be a bit too conservative and the temptation to tune all too easy. Luckily, you have this Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Tuning Guide to help you on your way.

Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Tuning Guide

The Mk7 Golf R offered very solid foundations for those power junkies looking to take things to the next level. The aftermarket is also flooded with go faster parts made to improve your R. With second-hand prices as low as £15,000, it’s worth checking out our Mk7 Golf R Buying Guide to see how easily you could get behind the wheel of one. Of course, once you find yourself in Mk7 Golf R ownership, then chances are it won’t take you too long to start looking at mods. And that’s where our VW Golf R Mk7 tuning guide comes in.

Feel free to use the jump links below to skip to the areas of tuning you’re most interested in.

• Engine Tuning
• Transmission Tuning
• Suspension Tuning
• Brake Tuning
• Wheel & Tires
• Interior Mods
• Styling Upgrades

VW Golf R Mk7 Engine Tuning

We’ve seen all manner or engine swaps in Mk7s over the years, from in-line BMW V8s to the more common Audi 2.5T five-cylinder. However, when you can easily get 400bhp from the factory four-pot, we’d seriously suggest you stick with the trusty Ten 3 2.0T EA888. As for the engine’s limits? Well, there don’t really seem to be any.

Okay, in typical Volkswagen fashion, the team at Wolfsburg was quite conservative with factory power outputs. We were all too aware that there was far more power just waiting to be realised from that awesome EA888 engine. Why not read our definitive guide to Tuning VW’s EA888 engine?

When it comes to tuning the EA888, the various upgrades are best broken down into stages. A simple Stage 1 ECU flash will totally transform your car and is possibly the best bang-per-buck option out there. Many tuners will tell you that Stage 2 software and matched hardware will offer you more than enough power to compliment that Mk7’s chassis. Others, however, will claim you’ll never be truly happy until you reach Stage 3 status. Whatever you choose, make sure you do your homework first and always read people’s reviews beforehand.

Stage 1 tuning

Tuning the VW Golf R Mk7 for more power couldn’t be any easier. A simple Stage 1 software flash can see power gains of up to 90bhp. It will also work perfectly well with your factory exhaust and intake. It is wise to consider upgrading both of these areas at an early stage, though. Stage 1+ software is available to tailor your map to suit these hardware add ons.

Stage 2 tuning

When you consider Stage 2 software, then most reputable tuners will also suggest you fit a high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP). It’s a good idea to have upgraded at least your exhaust and intake at this stage, and we’d also suggest looking at a performance intercoolers as well. At this stage, your map will usually be set to run the car on a higher octane fuel.

Stage 3 tuning

In terms of power, rule of thumb says Stage 3 usually delivers around the 500bhp make. However, Stage 3+ can easily see 600bhp+ achieved if using the right spec turbo and internals. That’s right, you won’t be able to gain this sort of power with stock internals. This is very much big school in terms of the parts and labour needed, plus the bills you can expect to achieve this sort of power. Companies such as Revo do offer their own off-the-shelf Stage 3 kit for this engine, which it can install for you as well.

Engine tuning legalities you should be aware of

Back in the day you could get away with carrying out all manner of mods to you car, but the laws are much tighter today. It’s always worth checking the small print when you get to Stage 2 and above, because certain parts can be sold for ‘off-road use’ only. Aftermarket exhausts are certainly an area to watch out for, because some systems simply won’t meet emissions or noise restriction laws. Most companies are quite good at making you aware of this, but it’s always worth checking! If you’d like more information on the legalities of modifying your exhaust, check out our guide on exhaust downpipes and decats.

VW Golf R Mk7 Transmission Tuning

What’s transmission tuning, we hear you ask? Well, if you’re running a DSG transmission, then this is basically a way of mapping your gearbox software to keep up with your engine enhancements. Basically, it means faster gear changes, raised RPM shift points and the option for a more aggressive launch control, too. Basically, it will make your car shift like you’d wish it had done from the factory.

Suspension Upgrades

While the Mk7 Golf R may have been 20mm lower than the standard Golf, many couldn’t resist the temptation to go lower. Fully adjustable coilovers are still a great way to further reduce the car’s ride height. They also allow you to tailor your suspension to suit your driving style by adjusting bump and rebound settings. We’d certainly avoid buying cheaper ‘height-adjustable only’ versions specials. Bilstein, BC Racing and H&R are just a few of a reputable brands that produce fully adjustable kits for the Mk7. KW Suspensions in German can also offer kits that either complement the optional DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) system or blank it off all together.

The Mk7’s chassis is so well engineered, that uprated dampers and springs should suffice in most cases. We would only look at upgrading to poly bushes if you’re planning to use your car very enthusiastically on the road or on track. The same can be said with upgraded suspension components like wishbones and the like. Companies such as 034 Motorsport and Verkline do offer a full range of suspension hardware components if you are going full-on with the chassis upgrades.   

If you’re after ultimate ‘lows’ then Bilstein, KW & H&R offer ‘deep’ coilover kits, designed to allow you to safely drive your car at a very low ride height. If that’s still not low enough for you, then you could always opt for air suspension with Air Lift producing an off-the-shelf kit for the Mk7 platform.

Brake Modifications For the VW Golf R Mk7

The Mk7 Golf R’s stock brakes (340mm discs front and 310mm rear) are not to be sniffed at when running stock power. However, the moment you start to increase horsepower then a brake upgrade should be considered at the same time. If you’re considering Stage 1 software, then a simple disc and pads upgrade should suffice. However, the moment you move to Stage 2 specification, then we’d suggest you consider a big brake kit (BBK). Brembo, EBC, Tarox and Forge Motorsport are just a few of the brands that offer off-the-shelf BBKs specifically for the Mk7. In most cases, these kits will come with six-pot calibers, larger discs with quick release bells, plus uprated bake hoses and brake fluid.

Finally, if you’re going all-out with your build, then companies such as RacingLine actually produce a direct-fit Carbon Ceramic Big Brake Kit for the Mk7 (above). However, with its Stage 3+ front set-up costing over £7k and the rears tipping the scales at over £5k, you need to have some pretty deep pockets. The best was never going to be cheap, though, right?   

Performance Wheels & Tires

While the VW Golf R Mk7 came as standard on 18×7.5” alloys, many opted for the larger 19” ‘Pretoria’ wheel. If you’re planning to run the car on the circuit or not fussed about compromising ride quality on the road, then it will accommodate 20” wheels. However, we’d suggest you stick with a 19” wheel, especially if you plan a substantial reduction in ride height as well. There are plenty of Mk7 Golf R wheels to choose from on the aftermarket. If you’re building a show car, then many favor a staggered split rim. With the car being all-wheel-drive, we’d suggest you stick with a square (the same widths front and rear) set-up, though.

While there are plenty of brands to choose from, the cool kids usually opt for splitties from the likes of Rotiform or BBS. We’ve seen various OEM+ wheels used on Mk7s as well, from rare VW/Audi options to those originally found on Bentleys and Rolls Royces. Just be sure to do your homework to work out off-sets and whether the wheel’s PCD matches the Mk7’s 5×112 fitment.

If you’re tracking the car then forged mono blocks are a great option being both strong and light. In fact, there are some stunning single-piece wheels available for the Mk7 to suit all budgets. A 19×8.5” wheel should fit with no arch rubbing issues, but just be sure to check your off-sets before splashing the cash.  

As for tires, if you’re running an 8.5×19″ then a 255/30 is a great performance option, but you could go for a slightly higher profile if you favor comfort over corners.  

Interior Mods

The Mk7 Golf R interior is a nice place to be, especially if you opt for the full leather specification. However, in true Germanic style, the cabin could be classed as a little bit dull. Not to worry, though, as there are plenty of options to lift things. Companies such as Black Forest Industries offer a great range of retro gear knob upgrades (above) for both manual and DSG cars. RaclingLine produce its own slick, lightweight DSG paddle replacements. Renown will also sell you a retro-style steering wheel, if you’re happy to ditch your factory air bag. If you fancy going down the motorsport route, then obviously you can ditch the rear seats and fit a full or half roll age. Add some bucket seats and harnesses for good measure before hitting the track. These cars are certainly at home on the circuit.   

Styling Upgrades

While the Mk7 Golf R was pretty comprehensive as an overall package, some felt it was let down somewhat by its conservative styling. Okay, so this sleeper image appealed to many, but thankfully, the aftermarket is awash with all manner of body enhancements for the Mk7.

From splitters and spoilers, to wider from wings and deep diffusers, you can buy all kinds of bolt-ons to beef-up the appearance of your Mk7 R. If that’s not enough, then companies such as Rocket Bunny offer a bolt-on Pandem wide-bodykit for the Mk7 which will really get you noticed.

At the other end of the scale, some prefer to keep things classy and go for a more OEM+ approach by fitting the later, facelift Mk7.5 lights and bumpers.

There are no hard and fast rules, but hopefully our Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Tuning Guide will help you make the right choices.

The post VW Golf R Mk7 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

One of the main reasons many people fit aftermarket car suspension is to have the ability to adjust the ride height. Simply lowering the ride height does have benefits, but height-adjustable coilovers also give you the ability to alter the way weight is balanced around the car.

Corner weighting, or corner balancing, is the process of equaling the weight distributed across all four wheels. Having the car weighted evenly can lead to substantial handling improvements, and is a brilliant way of maximizing the performance gains offered by aftermarket suspension.

Not only do you benefit from improved handling, but you also achieve more predictability when cornering. With the weight distributed evenly, you’re less likely to oversteer or understeer during cornering, allowing for a more natural grip slip off.

Adjusting coilovers does a lot more than just alter the ride height

Front to back corner weighting

For many applications you will look to achieve equal weight balance between the front and rear axles. In theory, this will lead to better balance between understeer and oversteer. In most road cars, especially front-wheel-drive models, that is not entirely feasible. The majority of the weight is over the front axle due to the engine and gearbox sitting forward of the front axle. But this can play to your advantage, given that the front axle does the steering and puts the power down too.

Managing this front-to-rear split will end up being a balancing act against your car’s front and rear roll stiffness, to achieve your target amount of understeer/oversteer to suit your driving style.

It’s a balancing act that is very personal to both the driver and the car, and you will need plenty of track time, along with lots of trial-and-error, to get it right.

Side to side corner weighting

This front-to-rear split is not the most important factor when corner weighting most cars. More importantly is the side-to-side balance of the car.

An offset side-to-side balance will result in a car that doesn’t corner evenly. Or, one that doesn’t corner as efficiently at is could because you’ve compromised the setup elsewhere to compensate for the imbalance.

From a driving point of view, a car that isn’t equal left-to-right is a car that is unpredictable and much more difficult to drive. As a result, you will struggle to get the most out of it on track. Not only that, but in a launch/start scenario (for race cars), a side-to-side imbalance can lead to the car not setting off in a straight line.

Cross weights

Most scale systems will give a ‘cross weight’ reading. This shows a percentage, representing the proportion of total vehicle weight on a cross-axle diagonal pair – for example, front-right and rear-left, or front-left and rear-right. The target here will always be to keep that cross weight at 50 per cent.

To measure corner weights, you’ll need a set of four scales, one to measure each wheel independently. Motorsport systems are available and usually have four pads connected to a control and display panel.

Before adjusting, it’s important to make the sure car doesn’t have an empty fuel tank or a boot full of junk.

Instead, imagine the car was just about to go out on track – fuel in the tank, driver strapped in the seat, and nothing extra floating around the cabin. It’s also a good idea to make sure the tire pressures are set at what you would be running, and any anti-roll bars should be disconnected to prevent the roll bar affecting the result.

A scale at each corner measures the effect of adjusting the coilovers

Weighing the car and adjusting the ride height

Roll the car onto the scales and allow the numbers to settle and take note of the output.

To reduce the weight on a wheel, lower the ride height on that corner by winding the spring seat down. This is the part of the process that most frequently confuses people, and at first glance it does feel counter-intuitive, as the car will lean more in that direction.

But what you need to remember is that lowering the spring seat is actually decreasing the preload on the spring and shortening the spring and damper assembly.

Conversely, to increase the wheel load you do the opposite and wind the spring seat up. Be wary of adjusting one spring seat too far, though. Make small incremental adjustments and try to balance the adjustment across the cross-axle.

For example, if the rear-left is too light, don’t just wind that coilover up until you see the numbers you want on the scales. Instead, a combination of increasing the rear-left and lowering the front-right will distribute the weight more evenly without having (as many) adverse effects elsewhere.

Adjusting the car’s center of mass

When it comes to handling there’s always a knock-on effect elsewhere, and it’s a balancing act to find the optimal setup. The same is true with corner weighting; adjust the coilovers so there is too much disparity between them, and not only will you ruin the ride height settings, but it could also result in some very unusual and unexpected geometries in the rest of the suspension, which will also cause your wheel alignment to be way out.

If you find you can’t get to the split you want without having to adjust things so far that the ride starts to become affected, try moving some mass around in the car. For example, things like relocating the battery can often help with a car’s balance.

Corner weighting – back on the scales

Before putting the car back on the scales to check your improvements, it’s important to allow the ride height to settle.

Dropping the car back onto its wheels after having been up in the air can result in an artificially high ride height due to something called hysteresis and stiction (yes, that’s the actual engineering term) in the bushes and the joints.

This can usually be resolved just by driving the car up and down the street, over a few bumps, or even just by using your own body weight to bounce the suspension through a few loops to ensure that everything is back to the actual ride height.

At this stage, having adjustable-length drop-links for anti-roll bars would be an advantage. Unevenness in the suspension position can cause the roll bar to fight against all your hard work.

If you can, fit adjustable links and then adjust them so there is no preload in any direction at your static ride height (again, with driver in the car and so on). That will mean the roll bars are only working when you want them to.

Reconnecting the drop-links

Finally, once you have achieved your target front-to-rear split, and maintained the 50 per cent cross-axle weight (without adjusting the ride heights too far from your target), you can reconnect the drop-links and go and have some fun carving up those corners.

Getting to this point takes time and is not easy. Corner-weight scales can also be expensive, so it’s often better to let someone who knows the process well, and has experience in it, to have a go on your car the first-time round.

Once the car is in the right ballpark, though, don’t be afraid to make changes – you’ll be surprised the huge differences even small adjustments can make.

The post The Ultimate Guide To Corner Weighting Your Car appeared first on Fast Car.

Cooling is an essential (albeit not very exciting) element of how your engine performs, but it’s not just uprated radiators and aftermarket intercoolers which can help you out in this area. For example, on a forced induction motor, an intercooler’s job is to use the ambient air passing through it to cool the hot induction charge before it gets to the cylinders. Reducing intake temperatures equals a double-whammy of denser air for power, and less chance of detonation.

It stands to reason then, that anything that can make your intercooler more efficient is a good thing, and that’s what makes intercooler sprays so popular. In fact, some cars like Evos and Scoobys, have even had these as standard over the years.

Why does an intercooler spray work?

The science is sound. A liquid like water has to absorb heat in order to evaporate. This means, when you spray it on a surface, it will draw out heat until it can vaporize. The same reason it can be 30˚C on holiday but you’ll still freeze when you first get out of the pool.

Anyway, this evaporative cooling is what makes an intercooler spray reduce air charge temperatures. In some situations, this type of mod can be used for short-term cooling of your radiator too.

Required Equipment

There are two popular ways of going about this job. You can either tap into your existing windscreen washers, or, as we have, get yourself a whole new kit.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. If you’re using your standard washer bottle, all the wiring is already there; all you need do is mount some nozzles. Screen wash is very good for cooling too. Then again, it can be pretty bloody distracting having your windscreen soaked every time you hit the button, so some choose to install a manual cut-off valve or disconnect the washers altogether. This works well in the short term (say, on the track), but isn’t all that great, or very legal, on the road.

On the other hand, basic washer bottle kits for classic and kit cars are cheap. We got ours on eBay for well under a tenner and it comes with everything from a pump to fittings. The key thing to remember is that, ideally, you want the water to mist onto your intercooler, and standard washer jets are crap for that. So, spend a couple of quid extra and get yourself some misting nozzles from your local garden center. The downside of these kits of course, is that fitting takes a little longer. But that’s where we’re here to help.

Where to place your intercooler spray bottle

First things first. You need to find a good place to mount your bottle. Ideally keep it as far away from the engine as possible, so it doesn’t soak up loads of heat when the car is running. That said, remember that inside a bumper or under an arch is only a good idea if you can actually fill the bottle up when you need to! If you can get some air flow around the bottle through the grille though, all the better.

Some race setups mount these in the boot or even inside the car, but you’ll likely be needing loads of extra tubing and a more powerful pump for that.

Route Your Nozzles

We’ve got a large front-mount intercooler and have chosen a simple dual-nozzle setup, but you could have more. There are lots of different types of pipe connectors/fittings available, from tees to elbows, so it’s easy to run nozzles in a series. Some people even choose to make a ring, a bit like a NOS/C02 intercooler spray. Equally, a single nozzle may do the job for a smaller side or top-mount intercooler.

When attaching your nozzles, you can make all sorts of flashy brackets and the like, but often the simplest solution – a couple of cable ties, for instance – can be the best. If it’s not too permanent, you can move the nozzles around after testing.

Route Your Wiring

Although some specialist kits come with a temperature trigger, generally speaking you’ll be using a button, and this is going to have to be within easy reach of the driver’s seat. Once you’ve found somewhere to mount yours, you’ll need to run your wires through the bulkhead to the pump, and connect to a power source.

It’s always a good idea to install an inline fuse too, just in case. With it all plugged in, hit the button to make sure the pump is working, and then you can securely mount your bottle.

Spray Away!

Before you can test your new spray, you’ll have to fill up the bottle (obviously). Although it’s fine to use water and, in an ideal situation, you want it to be cold – don’t worry too much because it’ll inevitably heat up under the hood anyway. For drag racing and track work, some like to add ice, but the main point of these systems is to take advantage of evaporative cooling, rather than physical cooling with a cold liquid.

With that in mind, generally the best solution is to use a mix of water and alcohol, like a 50/50 mix of water and rubbing alcohol, an isopropyl-based glass cleaner or even screen wash.

Alcohol evaporates off faster than water, and draws out more heat. Remember not to just bung in pure alcohol though. With a hot engine that’s an accident waiting to happen!

The post Intercooler Spray: What It Is & How To Install It appeared first on Fast Car.

What is an induction kit and what does it do?

An induction kit usually refers to the components used to replace the standard air box and cold air feed to the engine. An upgraded induction kit’s main function is to improve a vehicles performance, by improving its ability to feed cold fresh air to where the car needs it most. Simple but effective tuning, and often more effective than just changing the air filter.

Are induction kits all the same?

There are many different types of aftermarket performance air intake systems available.  Whilst the aim of all the intake systems should be the same (to increase the air flow the engine), the designs and final results can be very different.

What are induction kits made of?

The two main components of an induction kit are the airbox and air filter. The airbox provides a housing for the air filter and channels cool air from outside the engine bay directly to the filter.  It also has the added function of isolating the air from the effects of heat generated by the engine.

An air filter is essential to ensure that air drawn into the engine is clean and free from any contaminants that would potentially be harmful to an engine.  There are many different shapes and sizes of filters used, dependent on the application (road car, desert rally car, etc).

It is common for most OEM manufacturers to use pleated paper panel filters in the induction system while aftermarket performance products tend to feature a cone or cylindrical shaped filter to increase the available surface area.  The shape, size and material of the filter has an impact on the amount of air that is able to pass through it.

How do aftermarket induction kits differ to OEM intakes?

Usually they are larger and capable of flowing more air. Production cars are almost always built with compromises, so they are able to deal with harsh environments and bad fuel. Where these are not factors, and people have the desire to remap and gain more power, the cold air intake will give the car the air it needs to cope with the extra fuel a remap will require.

Why, or when, would you need to upgrade your induction kit?

In engine performance tuning, a method of increasing a vehicle’s engine performance is to increase the fuel used in the combustion process. This increase in fuel leads to an increased requirement of air to maintain the necessary air/fuel ratio. In some cases, the restriction posed by a vehicle’s standard intake system can limit the flow of air, hence the need for a performance induction kit.

How important is it to get the right type of induction kit?

There are several options when deciding what induction modification to make to a vehicle. There are three main categories: First up, a panel filter upgrade, which uses the vehicle’s existing airbox and replaces the standard pleated paper filter with high-flow filter made from cotton gauze, synthetic material or foam.

Next is an open induction system, which removes the standard airbox and replaces it with a filter connected to the intake pipe mounted within the engine bay. Air drawn from within the bay where the air is warmer and less dense is detrimental to performance. The use of a heat shield segregates the filter element from the engine.

In the case of Pipercross’s performance intakes for example, the filter and pipework can been routed low down behind the front bumper to ensure that the filter receives cold air despite not being housed in an airbox.

A closed cold air intake is a performance airbox designed around the optimum sized filter for the performance gain required. Housing a filter in an airbox provides a constant flow of cool air to the filter, whilst shielding the filter from the high engine temperatures.

What are the limitations of OEM intakes? Do aftermarket induction kits suffer the same fate?

It boils down to compromise. Regulations imposed on car manufacturers limit the performance of OEM intakes. A lot of the restrictions in the standard airboxes are due to the need to remove noise from the induction system, which often disrupts airflow. What the designers didn’t have in mind were tuned cars needing to flow more air.

What other mods should you consider when upgrading your induction kit?

Just like many other aspects of your car, its induction system will work at its best with other optimized car breathing. This means it is essential to ensure that every element of the engine’s breathing system is also uprated to be freer flowing. From intercoolers, to pipework, throttle bodies, manifolds, exhaust system and even the head ports. Things like an uprated turbo, if applicable, would also be worthwhile, as would an ECU remap and possible fueling upgrades to match with the increase in airflow.

Are there any downsides to aftermarket induction kits?

An aftermarket induction system removes the restriction of air flowing to the engine.  Due to this aftermarket intakes can be considerably louder than the standard one fitted to the vehicle.  For the majority of people this is part of the allure of an induction kit, however some people may find this a nuisance. Also, some open induction systems, without the correct ducting to ensure a strong cold air feed, can actually end up losing power due to drawing in the hotter, less dense air from the engine bay.

What are the most important things to look out for when buying an induction kit?

Aside from choosing the right induction kit for your car, of course, always look for a trusted brand with experience in all forms of motorsport. The development path taken by these large teams eventually ‘filters’ down to road car applications. You should also consider the purpose of what you want the car to do. Street cruiser, trackday warrior, will noise be an issue? Consider warranties too, an established company with a good reputation will be far easier to deal with should you encounter any issues.

The post Induction Kit Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

The strength and quality of your engine’s rotating mass is the key to your engine producing power for a worthwhile amount of time. Standard pistons, rods, and crankshaft may stand up to big power and revs for long enough to record a power run. But, give it sustained hard use, and the vast majority of engines will fail in spectacular style when power is raised.

Uprated components are stronger, often lighter, and can have other benefits. Combined, they enable your engine to survive when producing big power. Here’s our guide to engine internals strengthening.

When Do You Need Your Car’s Engine Internals Strengthening? 

There are so many variables in finding the limits of engine internals that there are three choices with regard to answering when you need to think about engine internals strengthening. None of which are ideal.

• You can learn from others breaking parts.
• You can learn from breaking your own parts.
• Or the SWAG method (a Scientific Wild Ass Guess!).

The reason for these less than ideal solutions is even big budget race teams can never accurately tell the true limits of standard components. You can make educated guesses, but often these can be way off the mark. You also only know for sure when the part fails, or indeed doesn’t. It is a double edged sword in many respects. To be on the safe side people often change unnecessary components. However, if you just push them until they fail, parts can often take other components out with them.

Not all components in any one engine may be at the limit at the same time either. There are many engines where the pistons or the rods may be at their safe limit at a far lower level than the other parts. In addition, a surprising number of cars have crankshafts that can do over three times the power level. In rare occasions, there are cars that the engine block is likely to fail before the internals. If this happens, uprating the internals at all is a fruitless exercise. An example of a strong engine from factory with some limiting parts is the famous RB26DETT engine.

Crankshaft 

The crank is the largest rotating component in any engine. It’s the part that transmits the power from the cylinders to the wheels via the transmission. You would think due it taking the combined power of all the cylinders it would need the most beefing up, but the crank is often the last component to be changed when going for big power. That isn’t to say there is no need for an uprated crankshaft, as there is. The most common reason for an uprated crankshaft is to increase the engine’s capacity by increasing the engine’s stroke. This gives better drivability and potentially more power too.

Not all cranks are as strong as others though. Due to the majority of aftermarket cranks being made from high quality forged or billet steel, this means they can take all the power you can throw at them without snapping. The other big advantage of billet steel cranks is they can be made lighter and better balanced for any given amount of strength. That in turn means it can spin at higher rpm safely, putting less stress on bearings and other engine components in the process.

Conrods 

Conrod is short for connecting rod. Guess what? It’s a rod which connects things; the pistons to the crankshaft to be precise. There’s immense pressure on the conrods as not only have you got the exploding air fuel mixture in the cylinders pushing them downwards with incredible strength. You also have the rotating crankshaft pushing them back upwards just as violently. As power and rpm increases, this stress increases substantially. Due to these stresses, standard rods are usually pretty strong and often cope with power increases well. However, rpm increases, which go hand in hand with increased power, can lead to the standard rods failing. When rods fail it’s catastrophic. It usually ends with wrecking the engine block and leaving almost nothing salvageable from the engine.

Another common reason for rod failure in tuned turbo engines is detonation. If you can imagine the crankshaft moving the rod back up the cylinder while detonation occurring in the combustion chamber is forcing the piston downwards. When this happens the conrod is receiving incredible forces from both directions at once. Unless something else, such as the head gasket or piston fails first, the rod can bend, or even snap. As with the crankshaft, uprated rods are usually made of high quality forged or billet steel. They are also often lighter and better balanced than the standard items, but for rods the most important factor is strength.

The two terms you often hear when talking about uprated rods are I-beam and H-beam. The H and I signify the general shape of them when viewed side on. Without going into specifics, H-beams are generally stronger. However, I-beams do have their uses, especially as they are often smaller.

Pistons

These are the most commonly uprated components on tuned road cars, especially turbocharged ones. This is because they are at the front line of combustion; the things the fuel air explosions in the cylinders are in direct contact with. As you increase power, these explosions get bigger. Eventually they become too big for the standard pistons to handle, but this is not the only reason pistons get replaced with stronger items. Coming a close second is to adjust the compression ratio. Either raise it to increase power on certain engines, or lower it to enable the car to safely run high boost on other engines.

There are other considerations too, as pistons on an N/A engine are generally not designed to be able to dissipate the heat as well as a turbocharged lump. Engines with particularly wild cams need to have specially shaped tops to clear the cams. Particularly high revving engines often need certain parts to be strengthened due to the high speeds and forces involved. For example, a piston in an engine with an 88mm stroke at 6,000rpm will travel down the cylinder and back up again in just 0.005 seconds!

Most standard pistons are cast items. However, the thickness, style, and type of aluminum alloy used to make the pistons affect the power and rev limits of the piston more than it being cast or not. And some cast pistons are used on very high power engines. As good as cast pistons can potentially be, high performance and race engines almost always use forged or billet pistons. These items are are made from high strength aluminum alloys rather than steel.

Make sure you check out our pistons guide to learn all about how they work and when you need to upgrade them.

Should I Buy Cast, Forged Or Billet Parts When Strengthening Engine Internals? 

Most standard components are cast. Although some cars from the factory have forged internals, they are rarely as strong as aftermarket forged internals. The final common word you hear when it comes to internals is the word ‘billet’. All three words describe the process that creates them and have a big effect on component strength.

The cheapest, but also weakest, is casting. The iron, steel, or alloy are heated until they are a molten liquid and then are left to set at atmospheric or low pressure inside a mold. While casting should never be thought of as weak, ultimately, forged or billet components have higher potential if all else is equal.

Forged parts is the most common name when people think of engine internals strengthening. This is generally aluminum or steel heated till they are soft rather than molten, and then squeezed in a die under very high pressure to make the component. As you might imagine, this process makes them very dense and therefore incredibly strong for their size.

The final type is billet, which means the component is made from a solid piece of high-quality billet aluminum or steel. This is usually a material that would either lose too much strength by being forged, or is simply too difficult to forge. To make billet components they use machinery to cut a solid billet into the correct shape. This can be a time consuming process, which also wastes most of the metal. For these reasons, billet components can be very expensive. On the other hand, for specialized one-off internals, the machine work for a billet part is less than making a die for forging. As a result, billet internals are often reserved for big-money motorsport applications.

Strengthening Engine Components 

After a component is made, or even to improve a standard part, there are processes than can strengthen it. The most common method are shot peening and nitriding. Shot peening, which is mostly done to conrods, involves blasting the rods with steel shot. This hardens the metal and removes any raised casting points which would normally be the weak point of the rod. This process is said to increase strength of a rod by up to 30%. Nitriding is a process normally done to crankshaft bearing surfaces. It is a complex procedure involving nitrogen-rich gas (hence the name) to give the metal an ultra-hard surface layer.

Balancing Components 

An engine’s rotating mass must be balanced if you want it to live for any serious amount of time. The higher you are planning to rev the car, the more crucial this is. For example, at 7,500rpm a crank spins at 125 times a second. Even at idle speed a crank is spinning at about 16 times a second. You can imagine the vibrations created if heavy metal engine components are out of balance at this speed. The stress is enough to wear out bearings and even snap components in two in a short space of time! Cranks are balanced along their rotation as you would expect. Pistons are balanced to all have the same weight. Conrods are balanced to have equal weights, but also balanced end to end.

On top of this, a crank balancer is fitted to the end of the crank to help absorb vibration. When it comes to uprating your engine internals, specialists can balance it to levels far in excess of the factory balancing. Uprated crank dampers are also available which do a far better job than the standard items. The combination of all this, along with stronger and lighter components, can help your car rev safely far in excess of the standard rev limit.

Words: Rich White.

The post Engine Internals Strengthening Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

There are some engines that have become legendary in the car tuning scene. The first two that always come to mind are the RB26DETT from Nissan and the 2JZ-GTE from Toyota. Both have huge potential when modified, and are famous for their ruggedness. Power levels of over 1000bhp, even 2000bhp, are possible with the right modifications and a big enough budget. But, there’s another six-cylinder engine out there which, with the right modifications, can produce huge levels of performance, too. And, no, they don’t come at the same premium price point as the legendary JDM cars for which the engines mentioned above power. We’re talking about BMW’s original turbocharged straight-six engine, the N54 and the N55 engines. Both are former Engine of the Year winners and both love boost.

Below, we’ll dive into the BMW N54 and N55 history as well as advise on the best modifications you can make to them to achieve improved performance.

BMW N54 N55 History

The N54 engine first appeared in the 2006 E92 335i. The twin-turbo straight-six arrived with 306hp and 295lb ft of torque. This is the version that the majority of N54-powered cars have; the F01 740i and US-only E92/3 335is came equipped with a 326hp version; this also received 332lb ft of torque. The most powerful version of the engine was found in the E82 1M Coupé and E89 Z4 sDrive35is; it made 340hp here, with an overboost function that gave it 369lb ft for five seconds at full throttle.

The N55 arrived in 2009 and went from two turbos to a single, twin scroll item. Both its power and torque figures were unchanged from the N54 in many guises, but peak torque arrived 100rpm earlier. Unlike the N54, there were numerous different incarnations of the N55 as BMW fitted it to just about every model it could. The F-range 640i, US-only E82/8 135is, F20/1 M135i and F01 740i all received the 320hp version with 332lb ft; the F22/3 M235i and LCI M135i both got the 326hp version; while the F30 ActiveHybrid 3 had the 340hp N55. Finally, the F26 X4 M40i came with a 360hp version that also got 343lb ft. The F87 M2 came with the most powerful version of the engine, with 370hp and 369lb ft of torque.

BMW N54 & N55 technical specs

The BMW N54 & N55 share their internal dimensions with the engine they’re based on, the M54. This means that they have an identical bore and stroke (84×89.6mm); even the compression ratio is the same at 10.2:1, which helps to explain why it feels like a normally aspirated engine in the way it drives as it’s not a low-compression motor. However, there are several big differences; the M54 is a closed-deck single-piece block whereas the N54 is an open deck design and consists of two pieces. The water pump is also electric on the N54. On the M54 it’s cast into the front of the block. As well as this, the M54 uses a more traditional fuel injection method, whereas the N54 features direct injection.

The N54 uses two smaller turbos running at 8.8 psi in order to keep lag to a minimum. The N55 uses one larger one, which features a twin-scroll compressor housing. This means that the exhaust side of the turbo is divided into two parts, each fed by three exhaust primaries. In addition to this, the N55 also comes equipped with Valvetronic variable valve lift technology. This improved throttle response and low-end torque as well as reducing fuel consumption by 15% and lowering emissions over the N54.

The N55 also switched from the N54’s more expensive Piezo fuel injectors to solenoid-type ones. The former was deemed not worthwhile using any longer as markets outside of Europe could not benefit from their potential lean-burn benefits.

N54 N55 tuning potential

Remap

While the N54 and N55 are impressive performers in stock form, it’s when you start tuning them that their true performance potential is realized. While both engines give good gains, the N54 will always make slightly more power. This is simply because it has two turbos and that means it’s easier for it to generate more power. The good news is that you don’t need to spend a lot of money. You also don’t need any complicated mods to see good gains on both engines; we’re going to be using the base version of each engine for reference.

Your first port of call will be either a remap or a tuning box; there are plenty of options for both and they’ll both result in similar gains. A remap will get you an increase of around 60hp and 80lb ft; while a tuning box like a JB4 or bootmod3 will get you up to 80hp. With a lot of tuning boxes being incredibly easy to install there’s really very little effort involved in getting a substantial hike in power. At around £450 / $400 it’s a very cost-effective performance mod.

Breathing mods

On naturally aspirated engines intakes don’t generally offer much in the way of gains. However, on a turbocharged car they’re always worth a look. While an intake won’t do a whole lot on its own (apart from more induction noise), once you start throwing more mods at your N54 or N55, it all adds up. There are loads on the market to choose from but the BMS one gets good reviews.

The charge pipe (the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold) on both engines is flimsy. It can fail even at stock boost pressure, so once you start upping the power, an uprated one is an absolute must. For the N54 we’d look at the Rennessis pipe from SSDD, which comes complete with an uprated blow-off valve. The VRSF item ($150) for your N55 isn’t a bad option either. An upgraded blow-off valve is an important addition because once boost pressure increases the stock ones can leak; the N54 uses manifold absolute pressure (MAP) so is quite happy with either a recirculating or an atmospheric blow-off valve. The N55 uses a MAF sensor and so it’s best to stick with a recirculating one.

Exhaust

The most restrictive point of both the N54 and N55 exhaust systems is the downpipe. On the N54 you have one of these from each turbo. On the N55 there is just one and it’s the cat in each of these pipes that causes the restriction and a massive increase in back-pressure. Fit a de-cat downpipe and you instantly gain power, torque and improved throttle response. You’ll also get more noise! As a result, they’re an absolute win all-round and you can expect to pay around £400 / $300.

The rest of the exhaust is fine and any changes won’t really make a difference to power. However, they will give you an awesome straight-six soundtrack to enjoy, so we’d throw one on for that reason alone. We’d also look at adding an uprated intercooler to help keep intake temperatures down. This could potentially increase power; one from someone like Mishimoto will set you back about $600.

Chasing big power from your N54 or N55

At this point, you’ll have around 400hp+ on an N55 and 420hp+ on an N54, and for most people that’s going to be enough; it won’t have cost you a fortune to get to this point and your car will feel very quick indeed. Of course, there’s always more you can do and the next step would be a set of hybrid turbos with uprated internals. It’s about $2500-3000 for a pair of hybrids for the N54 or around half that for one for the N55 and that will get you well over 500hp, potentially even over 600hp, on an N54 and around 470hp+ on an N55.

You will need some additional supporting mods such as an even larger intercooler, uprated low-pressure fuel pump on the N54, and potentially even meth injection to help keep intake temperatures down and prevent detonation. If you still want more you need a big single-turbo setup and for that, you’ll need a manifold, which will set you back around $2500-3000 and then you need a turbo plus additional mods, so the costs will start to rack up but you can hit over 700hp.

Photos: Larry Chen, Daniel Pullen, Zayne Smith, Mike Kuhn, Viktor Benyi.

The post BMW N54 & N55 Engine Guide & How To Tune Them appeared first on Fast Car.

With its sleek lines and tuneable rotary motor, the FC and FD Mazda RX-7 have always been a favorite with the JDM enthusiast, but the factory rolling stock never really did cut the mustard. The aftermarket is flooded with alloy wheel upgrades, but you really need to choose wisely to protect your investment as second-hand RX-7 prices continue to soar. The last thing you want to do is devalue your RX-7 with cheap, nasty looking wheels/

What to look out for when buying aftermarket wheels for a Mazda RX-7

Split rims look fantastic and offer the widest selection of fitments. In most cases, you can tailor splitties to suit your Mazda RX-7. However, if you’re after the lightest, toughest wheels, then forged monoblocks are hard to beat. Neither of these options come cheap, though, but then the best very rarely does.

Of course, there are plenty of cast monoblocks available if you’re buying on a budget, but the quality of these can vary hugely, so do be careful in making a selection.

What to avoid

If your budget is limited, then you need to be far more careful with your selection. As tempting as they may well be, we’d always suggest you avoid fake split-rims as the dummy bolts will often rust or corrode over time, which is very tricky to rectify. Also, if a wheel seems too cheap, then there’s usually a good reason – they can often be heavy and are not always very strong, either.

We’ve compiled this article to help you choose the correct wheel for your RX-7 and have tried to list wheels of all types and budget to give you the widest selection. Without further ado, here are the 20 best Mazda RX-7 wheels.

Best aftermarket wheels for the Mazda RX-7 FC

Launched in the mid 1980s, the FC was the second generation of Mazda’s iconic rotary-power sports couple, the RX-7. Produced until the launch of the FD in 1992, the FC’s factory 15in BBS wheels may be strong and relatively light, but they do date the car and look a little lost in the factory arches.

As we mentioned in our RX-7 FC Tuning Guide, on factory arches you’re quite limited to what you can fit, especially at the front, where a 225 wide tire and an 8inch wide wheel is pretty much the maximum that will fit without modifications. The rear isn’t so bad, where people have fitted 255 wide tires on 9in wide wheels while still on standard arches.

If you’re happy to explore custom or aftermarket arch extensions and body kits, then the sky is the limit in terms of figment. Here we’ve see 295 front tires and even 315 rears! That being said, even with heavily rolled and flared standard arches we’ve seen as much as 265 wide front and 295 wide rear tires on FC Time Attack cars in Japan.

Once you’ve worked out what size wheels you’re after, then comes the fun part – choosing the brand and model to suit your taste. That’s where our guide comes in, to help you on your way…

Cosmis Racing XT006R

The Cosmis Racing XT006R is a flow-formed six-spoke wheel that is both light and strong, plus reasonably priced as well. While 18″ is quite a large diameter rim for the FC RX-7, it can work extremely well if executed correctly, as seen here on Sim Harratt’s car.

Tech spec

Available in: 18-20in diameter. 9.5 – 11in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. Various offsets. Center bore: 74.1. Wheel type: Flow-formed monoblock. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: Torqen

AutoStrada Modena

With their large, center-lock look center cap bolt, three-piece construction and five-spoke design, these JDM favorites actually scream Ferrari F40, but actually looks good on any JDM car. In our mind, it’s best suited to classics like the FC RX-7, though. A staggered 9.5Jx17in front; 10.5Jx17in rear fitment, as seen here on Kohei Miyata’s 350bhp example, will work a treat.

Tech spec

Available in: 16-17in diameter. 8.5-9.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. various offsets. Wheel type: Three-piece, five-spoke. Colors available: Silver centers (custom colors to order).

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

Enkei RPF1

Enkei’s sexy RPF1 reminds us of a 90’s Formula One wheel which, when you consider Enkei made F1 wheels back then and F1 is part of the wheel’s name, that sort of makes sense. Available in dimensions ranging from 14in to 17in the split six-spoke single-piece design is simply stunning.

Tech spec

Available in: 14-18in diameter. 7-10.5in widths. 5×100 – 5×114.3 PCD. ET18 to 45 offset. 66.5 – 73mm center bore. Weight: 18.52 lbs – 41 lbs (8.4 kg – 19.05 kg). Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Silver, Black, Chrome, Gold.

Where to buy: Torque GT

Mazdaspeed MS-01 LM

The OG Mazdaspeed MS-01 (not to be confused with the reproduced single-piece forged option)  is another classic five-spoke split-rim that just suits the retro styling of the FC RX-7 perfectly. A staggered set of 17s will do nicely and if you wanna be baller, then you need to opt for gold centres with a polished lip.

Tech spec

Available in: 17in diameter. 7 – 9in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET30 – 44 offsets. 73mm center bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Two-piece split rim. Colors available: Silver or Gold centers, polished lip

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

BBS RS

If you’re after an OEM+ look for your FC, then BBS’s legendary three-piece wheel will offer you a factory style, but in a more tailored fitment. With so may various fitments available, you need to work out exactly the correct look you want for you car before searching eBay for those wheels. Thankfully, spares are readily available, too.

Tech spec

Available in: 14 – 18in (19 – 20in Super RS) diameter. 6 – 13in widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. -79 – 62 offsets. Centre bore: 57 – 73.9. Wheel type: Three-piece, multi-spoke design. Weight: 10.9kg (19″ Super RS). Colors available: Silver, gold, grey with polished lip

Where to buy: Super RS and spares: BBS.com or Classic RS: eBay

Super Advan Racing Version 2

When you think of three-spoke wheels, then the Super Advan Racing Version 2 has got to be the most recognized. With its distinctive split three-spoke design this iconic wheel lends itself perfectly to Mazda’s classic FC RX-7. Sadly, these have been discontinued, but eBay could well be your friend…

Tech spec

Available in: 17-18in diameter. 7.5-10in widths. 4×100 & 5×114.3 PCD. ET 24 to +48 offset (custom to order). Wheel type: Two-piece, split three-spoke design. Cast with forged rim. Colors available: Silver, gold, chrome, blue, red, gun metal

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

Rays VOLK RACING TE37

When it comes to aftermarket JDM wheels then the Rays’ Volk Racing TE37 has got to be one of the most highly-regarded. Let’s face it, these wheels look good on pretty much everything. The race-inspired wheel comes in a simple six-spoke design and works in pretty much any colour.

Tech spec

Available in: 14-18in diameter. 7-12in widths. 4×114.3 – 5×120 PCD. ET -33 to +40 offset. 65mm-73.1mm center bore. Weight: 9.92 lbs-18.74 lbs (4.5 kg-8.5 kg). Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Colors available: Grey centers with polished lip or bronze.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels UK

Panasport Racing G7 C5C2

Panasport’s G7 C5C2 is a chunky five-spoke two-piece split rim that looks good on any classic JDM car, but especially the FC RX-7. We have seen exotic fitments such as a 9 x 17in front & 10 x 18in rear, but it all comes down to personal taste

Tech spec

Available in: 15-18in diameter. 6-15in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. Various offsets. Wheel type: Two-piece, five-spoke design. Colors available: Silver, gold, grey with polished lip

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

Rota Grid

A great entry-level wheel, you really can’t go far wrong with Rota’s five-spoke Grid. It’s a simple, clean design that borrows from a lot of classic JDM wheels. In a 8 x 17in (front) and 9 x 17in (rear) fitment, this would give an aggressive stance and yet still make the perfect daily driver rim.

Tech spec

Available in: 15 – 19in diameter. 7 – 10in widths. 4×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET10 to 45 offset. Various center bores. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Weight: 11.57 lbs – 18.74 lbs  (5.25 kg – 8.5 kg). Colors available: Various

Where to buy: Rota Wheels

WORK Equip 05

Another classic five-spoke (that has sadly been discontinued) which works so well on the FC RX-7. While not available to buy new, these do crop up on eBay regularly and work well in a staggered 9- and 10 x 17in fitment with 205/40 tires all around.

Tech spec

Available in: Any diameter. Any widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. Any offset. Any center bore. Weight: Depends on spec. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Colors available: Gold & silver (standard), plus custom options.

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay or buy spares at WORK Wheels

Best aftermarket wheels for the Mazda RX-7 FD

Launched in 1992, the FD RX-7 is by far the most popular of Mazda’s rotary-powered cars and, as a result, the aftermarket is flooded with parts for the iconic machine. While the car has aged extremely well since its release over 30 years ago, the same can’t be said for the factory wheels.

In fact, this was a point we picked up on in our RX-7 FD Tuning Guide: “One of the few components that hasn’t aged too well is the wheels, which generally are small and dated, and even the ‘best’ wheels – the 17-inch BBS wheels from the late Spirit R model – are pretty tame.” On the plus side (pardon the pun), the standard FD arches are quite spacious, so 9.5 × 18in wheels with an ET20 offset, combined with fairly substantial 245 wide front and 265 wide rear tires, fit with no issue at all, fill the arches nicely, and can give massive amounts of grip.

Choosing the dimensions is the easy part, though. Thankfully, our guide to the 10 best wheels will hopefully help you choose and style and design that works best on your car.

RAYS Volk Racing VR21C

As seen on 700bhp FD RX-7 example in 10.5x18in fitment, with its unique five spokes design, the VR21C is set to be a future classic and finished in bronze with Thunderbolt Titanium wheel nuts, well, it doesn’t get any better.

Tech spec

Available in: 18in diameter. 8-12in widths. 5×11 – 5×114.3 PCD. Offsets: -30 – 35. Center bore: 65 – 73.1. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors: Dark gunmetal or bronze, both with polished lip.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels

WORK Meister S1 3P

Split-rims don’t come any more cool or timeless than WORK’s legendary Meister S1 3P. While it looks good on most JDM cars, if we had to choose one RX-7 to fit it to then that would have to be the FD. For fitment on a wide-body car we’d suggest a 9.5x18in (front) and 11.5x18in (rear) with 255/35×18 and 295/40×18 tires.

Tech spec

Available in: 18-19in diameter. 8-16in widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. Various offsets. Various center bores. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: WORK Wheels

Rotiform LHR-M

The Rotiform brand is becoming ever more popular on JDM cars and its LHR-M forged three-piece works perfectly on the FD RX-7 as seen here on The Kyza’s car.

Tech spec

Available in: Rotifom’s Custom Spec range, so all sizes, widths and dimensions available to suit you vehicle. Wheel type: Forged one-, two- or three-piece. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Custom (15 colors to choose from)

Where to buy: Find your local Rotiform dealer.

SSR Professor TF1

SSR’s Professor TF1 is a timeless multi-spoke split rims that works well on wide-body cars, as seen here. Aim for a 9.5×18 ET minus 26 (front); 11.5×18 ET; minus 52 (rear) fitment with 245/35×18 (front); 285/38×18 (rear) tires.

Tech spec

Available in: 18- 20in diameter. 7-13in widths. 5×98 – 5×130 PCD. ET-52 to 62 offset. Centre bore: 71.6 – 74.1. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Dependent on weight. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: SSR

ADVAN Racing GT

If you’re looking for light and strong wheels with open spokes (to aid brake cooling) then ADVAN’s fully forged Racing GT five-spoke is the one. For fitment, 9.5x18in (front) and 10.5x18in (rear) Advan GT wheels with 255/35 (f) and 295/30 (r) should do the trick, as seen here.

Tech spec

Available in: 19-21in diameter. 8.5-12in widths. 5×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET0 to 50 offset. Unknown center bore. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: 21 lbs (9.55 kg) for a 10 x 20in. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: ADVAN Wheels

WORK Emotion GT5

If you’re after a single-piece wheel that comes in a staggered fitment, then WORK’s Emotion GT5 is a great choice, as seen here. A three-piece version is also available. As for fitment, a 10.5×18-inch ET-1 (front) and 12.5×18-inch ET-20 (rear) with 225/35 (f) and 285/30 (r) tires is the sweet spot.

Tech spec

Available in: 18in diameter. 9 – 10in widths. 5×100 – 5×114.3 PCD. Various offsets. Various center bores. Wheel type: Single-piece cast wheel. Weight: Unknown. Colors available: Bronze, Matte Black or Silver

Where to buy: WORK Wheels UK

Fifteen52 Bergmeister

With its split five-spoke star design, Fifteen52’s Bergmeister was the result of a collaboration it had with Australian Mercedes tuner, Dkubus, but some how it works really well on the curvy FD, especially running a wide-body set-up, As seen here on Sim’s Rocket Bunny car the forged three-piece works a treat in 10.5x18in (front) and 14x18in (rear) fitment.

Tech spec

Available in: Fully custom, made to order wheels. Type: Forged three-piece using forged 6061 aluminum centers. Colors available: Various

Where to order: Fifteen52

RAYS Volk Racing CE28N

The Volk Racing CE28N is the lightest wheel RAYS produce. This forged ten-spoke is super light (the 18in is 7.26kg to be precise), mega strong and in 9×17 (front) 10×17 (rear) as seen here on Drag Performance’s car, the forged monoblock wheels absolutely smash it.

Tech spec

Available in: 15-18in diameter. 6.5-8.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET30 to 42 offset. Center bore: Various. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: 8 lbs-16 lbs (3.63 kg-7.26kg). Colors available: Various.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels UK

Weds Kranze ERM

If you’re after a multi-piece mesh design wheel, then the Weds Kranze ERM is a classic choice and if you’re after an extreme fitment then you won’t beat a 10x18in (front) and 14.5x18in (rear) as seen here.

Tech spec

Available in: 17 – 18in diameter. 7 – 14.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. Offset: Various. Centre bore: Various. Wheel type: Three-piece split-rim. Weight: Dependent on size. Colors available: Various.

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

Mazdaspeed MS-02

Mazdaspeed’s MS-02 (produced for the Mazda tuner by Rays) is our favorite wheel for the FD RX-7. Its chunky, aero design gives the car an almost caricature appearance, which is always a good thing in our mind. If you can locate a set, then a staggered 17in fitment will guarantee you baller status.

Tech spec

Available in: 17in diameter. 7 – 9in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET30 – 44 off-sets. 73mm center bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Single-piece monoblock. Colors available: Silver or Gold centers, polished lip.

Where to buy: Discontinued but try eBay

The post Best Mazda RX-7 Wheels appeared first on Fast Car.

Fitting aftermarket wheels to any car can be something of a minefield, but if you’re thinking about changing the wheels on a Nissan Skyline GT-R then boy do you need to choose wisely in order to get it right.

What to look out for…

Obviously, split-rims look fantastic and are great if you want a custom fit and finish, but if you’re more focused on all-out performance – where weight-saving and strength is order of the day – then you can’t really beat a set of forged monoblocks. Unfortunately, quality does come at a price, and sadly neither of these first two choices are exactly what you’d call cheap. But then, do you really want to fit cheap wheels to your Skyline GT-R?

If you are working with a slightly tighter budget, though, then there are still some nice single-piece cast wheels available that won’t break the bank. So long as you stick with the simple, timeless designs and a reputable brand, then you won’t go far wrong.

Try to avoid…

We’d suggest you avoid the super cheap replicas or poor quality fake split-rims at all costs. The last thing you want is a wheel that is going to bend at the first pot hole you drive over or dummy bolts that will corrode at the first sight of salt on the roads.

We’ve compiled this article to help you choose the correct wheel for your GT-R and not wind up with serious egg on your face down to poor choice.

Note: If you’re intending to drive your car hard then we’d always recommend you stick to the same wheel and tire sizes all round to avoid issues with the four-wheel drive system. A staggered set-up should only really be chosen for static display purposes.

Relevant content – Here’s our guide to offsets, sizes, and everything else you need to know about alloy wheels. 

5 best wheels for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R32

Launched in 1989, Nissan’s R32 GT-R is the OG when it comes to Skylines and the car that needs most consideration if you’re thinking about going down the modified route. With second-hand prices soaring and unmolested examples becoming a rare thing, you really need to think wisely about the wheels you fit to this cult classic in order not to ruin the car. It may sound like a cliché, but wheels do make the car – especially one as iconic as the R32 GT-R.

As we stated in our R32 Skyline GT-R Tuning Guide the iconic Japanese supercar slayer came with just 7 x 16in rims as standard, but this can easily be beefed up with either some wider tires to increase the car’s footprint, or a swap to some larger 17in or 18in wheels.

Most will tell you a 9.5 x 18in wheel with a 265-section tire is the recommended sweet spot, as not only does it fill the arches nicely, but opens up a wide range of both wheel and tore options at various price points. However, if you’re fitting a wide bodykit or going drag racing, then you may favor something a little more aggressive or even a staggered set up. We just wouldn’t recommend the latter on a daily driver…

Here are our top five aftermarket wheels for the R32 GT-R trying to accommodate the various budgets and applications you may be working with.

Rays VOLK Racing TE37V

Probably the ultimate wheel for a standard-bodied R32 GT-R is the fully-forged, single-piece Volk TE37V from Rays. When it comes to fitment, 9.5 x 18in all round with a 255/35 tire will do nicely and a grey center with a polished lip will finish things off perfectly.…

Tech spec

Available in: 14-18in diameter. 7-12in widths. 4×114.3 – 5×120 PCD. ET -33 to +40 offset. 65mm-73.1mm center bore. Weight: 9.92 lbs-18.74 lbs (4.5 kg-8.5 kg). Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Colors available: Grey centers with polished lip or bronze.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels

WORK VS-XX

If you’re running a wide body-kit then WORK’s VS-XX multi-spoke is perfect because it’s available in pretty much any size and finish you can dream up. A staggered set of 11- and 12 x 18in would work perfectly on a wide body-kitted car.

Tech spec

Available in: Any diameter. Any widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. Any offset. Any center bore. Weight: Depends on spec. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Colors available: Gold & silver (standard), plus custom options.

Where to buy: WORK Wheels

Nismo GT1 440-R

Tough, timeless and purposeful. If you can find a set, then Nismo’s multi-piece GT1 440-R is arguably our favorite R32 GT-R wheel ever. Its simple five-spoke design is great for showing off big brakes and the rarity value with give you kudos for days.

Tech spec

Available in: 18in diameter. 9.5in widths. 114.3 PCD. ET +14 offset. 66.1mm center bore. Weight: Unknown. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Colors available: White centers with polished lip.

Where to buy: Ebay

Enkei RPF1

If you’ve built a pure driver’s car and you’re after a motorsport-inspired wheel that’s very strong and pretty light, then we suggest running Enkei’s RPF1 in 9.5 x 17in diameter, allowing for a semi slick tire with a decent sized tire wall. These will tip the scales at a little over 16kg a pop.

Tech spec

Available in: 14-18in diameter. 7-10.5in widths. 5×100 – 5×114.3 PCD. ET18 to 45 offset. 66.5 – 73mm center bore. Weight: 18.52 lbs – 41 lbs (8.4 kg – 19.05 kg). Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Silver, Black, Chrome, Gold.

Where to buy: Torque GT

Rota GTR-D

If you’re looking for a deep, aggressive wheel on a budget then you can’t go far wrong with Rota’s single-piece, cast GTR-D in a 10 x 18in fitment. The wheel looks far more expensive than it costs and was named after the car in question, so go figure…

Tech spec

Available in: 18in diameter. 9.5-12in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET 0 to 35 offset. 73mm center bore. Weight: 18.74 lbs – 24.25 lbs (8.5 kg-11 kg). Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Colors available: Gunmetal, White, Bronze, Hyper Black, Black, Black 2, Silver with polished lip

Where to buy: Rota

5 best wheels for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R33

The R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R, which went on sale in 1995, was slightly larger, faster and heavier than the R32, plus it also boasted more room in the wheel arches. As a result, it came on larger wheels as stock. As we mentioned in our Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 Tuning guide, the car rolled out of the factory on 9 x 17in ET30 rims, but due to those larger arches, it can accommodate 18s or 19s without problem. You should be able to run a 10 or even 11in wide rim with some 305-section tires in a stock arch.

As for the style and wheel type, similar to the R32, it’s still the classic, timeless designs that work best on the R33. The idea here is to complement the car, not take away from the impact of its iconic appearance. While rare wheels work well, there are still some off-the-shelf applications that also have plenty of street cred.

Rota Grid

If you’re building on a budget, then you really can’t go far wrong with Rota’s five-spoke Grid. It’s a simple, clean design that borrows from a lot of classic JDM wheels and in a 10 x 18in fitment, with a 265/35 tyre, would give an aggressive stance and yet still make the perfect daily driver rim.

Tech spec

Available in: 15- 9in diameter. 7-10in widths. 4×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET10 to 45 offset. Various center bores. Wheel type: Cast monoblock. Weight: 11.57 lbs – 18.74 lbs  (5.25 kg – 8.5 kg). Colors available: Various

Where to buy: Rota Wheels

BBS LM

It might seem unusual to run a German wheel on a JDM car, but when you’re talking about BBS’s legendary multi-piece LM, then no excuse is needed. Gold centers with a brushed lip and black hardware looks good on any colored car and a 10 x 18in wheel will nail the fitment. These tip the scales at 11kg a piece.

Tech spec

Available in: 17-20in diameter. 7-11in widths. 4×100 – 5×130 PCD. ET20 to 56 offset. 71.6mm center bore. Wheel type: Forged split-rim. Weight: 22.93 lbs- 27 lbs (10.4 kg-12.7 kg ). Colors available: Brilliant Silver, Gold, Diamond Black.

Where to buy: BBS

WORK Meister S1 3P

Split-rims don’t come any more cool or timeless than WORK’s legendary Meister S1 3P. While it would look good on any generation GT-R, if we had to choose one to fit it to then that would have to be the R33 – those curvy spokes just match the car’s swooping body lines perfectly and again, fit and finish options are seemingly endless. It isn’t called a ‘custom’ wheel for nothing…

Tech spec

Available in: 18-19in diameter. 8-16in widths. 4×98 – 5×130 PCD. Various offsets. Various center bores. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: WORK Wheels

RAYS Volk Racing CE28N

The Volk Racing CE28N is the lightest wheel RAYS produce. The forged ten-spoke is super light (the 18in is 7.26kg to be precise), mega strong and in 8.5 x 18in fitment, about as good as it gets for all-out performance. Opt for a bronze finish if you wanted be proper baller, plus it’s the only color available.

Tech spec

Available in: 15-18in diameter. 6.5-8.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET30 to 42 offset. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: 8 lbs-16 lbs (3.63 kg-7.26kg). Colors available: Bronze.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels

Blitz Techno Speed Z1

When it comes to ultimate R33 GT-R wheels, then the Blitz Techno Speed Z1 has got to be up there with the best of them, especially in a 10 x 19in fitment. For full scene points, opt for a gold center with a polished lip. The only issue here may be finding a set second-hand as these have been out of production a while.

Tech spec

Available in: 17-20in diameter. 8-11in widths. 4×100 – 5×114.3 PCD. ET 15 to 45 offset. Unknown center bore. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Unknown. Colors available: Various.

Where to buy: eBay

5 best wheels for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R34

You can’t really mention the R34 Nissan Skyline GT-R without referring to Fast and the Furious or Paul Walker. It was Brian O’Conner’s (the character Paul played in the film) silver R34 that really put this car on the tuning map. Launched in 1999, the R34 had a much more grown up appearance to it. The car still looked like a Skyline, but had a less sleek and more aggressive appearance. It had also once again grown in size over its predecessor (with more power, too, despite the Gentleman’s Agreement) and, as a result, came with even larger wheels as stock.

If you read our Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 Tuning Guide then you’ll know we mentioned the car came from the factory on 18in forged alloy wheels. ‘Light, tough and wide enough for seriously sticky rubber they have plenty of room for the biggest of brake kits’, we wrote. The only reason to alter them is if you want to change the style or add a greater rubber footprint. And, inevitably, that’s exactly what tuners and enthusiasts the world over wasted no time in doing. While wider 18in wheels are still popular, if you’re going to the trouble of swapping the hoops then we’d suggest stepping up to a 19in or, if you’re more into the cosmetic enhancements, even a 20in.

Here are our top five Skyline GT-R R34 wheels, which include styles and designs to suit all budgets and applications, whether you’re showing, drifting or dragging your car.

ADVAN Racing GT

If you’re accommodating huge brakes (think 400mm+ discs) then only whopping 12 x 20in wheels (with 285/35 rubber) will do. And if you’re looking for light and strong wheels with open spokes (to aid brake cooling) then ADVAN’s fully forged Racing GT five-spoke is the one.  A gloss black finish is surely the only way to go…

Tech spec

Available in: 19-21in diameter. 8.5-12in widths. 5×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET0 to 50 offset. Unknown center bore. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: 21 lbs (9.55 kg) for a 10 x 20in. Colors available: Various

Where to buy: ADVAN Wheels

Rotiform LSR-M

The Rotiform brand is becoming ever more popular on JDM cars and seeing Jean Pierre Kraemer’s (of JP Performance) R34 here on LSR-M forged monoblock kind of proves that. A purposeful 10 x 19in fitment on an R34 allows for a chunky tire with a decent sidewall and cut slick tread pattern.

Tech spec

Available in: Rotifom’s CustomSpec range, so all sizes, widths and dimensions available to suit you vehicle. Wheel type: Forged one-, two- or three-piece. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Custom (15 colours to choose from)

Where to buy: Find your local Rotiform dealer.

HRE 446R

Although now discontinued, how could we leave out the very wheel fitted to Paul Walker’s silver R34 in Fast and Furious? HRE’s iconic six-spoke split-rim screams JDM, which is probably why the produces chose it in the first place. We believe the car in the film ran a 10 x 19in wheel with a 285×30 tire, so if you do find a set for sale then that’s the ones to look out for.

Tech spec

Available in: 19in diameter. 10in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. Unknown offset. Unknown center bore. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Unknown. Colors available: Silver center with polished lip.

Where to buy: Wheel discontinued but try eBay.

SSR Professor SP5

SSR‘s Professor SP5 is a high-end ten-spoke multi-piece wheel which looks good in High Metal Bronze finish with a polished step lip. These are available in a number of diameters from 18 – 20in, although we’d stick with a 10 x 19in.

Tech spec

Available in: 18-20in diameter. 7-13in widths. 5×100 to 5×114.3 PCD. ET -39 to 62 offset. 73-74.1mm center bore. Wheel type: Three-piece split rim. Weight: Unknown. Colors available: Standard colors are High Bright Silver, High Bright Bronze. Custom finish available.

Where to buy: Driftworks

Enkei RS05RR

If you’re running a wider-bodied car then you need to go for an aggressive fitment and Enkei’s RS05RR, in a 11 x 18in (ET +16) with a 295/35 tire will give you just that. Expect this sized wheel to weigh just over 20kg each.

Tech spec

Available in: 18in diameter. 8.5-11in widths. 5×100 – 5×120 PCD. ET22 to 45 offset. 66.5-75mm center bore. Wheel type: Flow formed monoblock. Weight: 39.88 lbs-45.28 lbs (18.07 kg – 20.54 kg). Colors available: Matt Gunmetal or Sparkle Silver.

Where to buy: Enkei

5 best wheels for the Nissan GT-R R35

When the R35 (or GT-R, as it was simply called) rolled out of the factory in 2008, it was an instant hit with the world’s media and enthusiasts alike. As we mentioned in our Nissan GT-R R35 Tuning Guide, the R35 came standard on 9.5x20in wheels (10x20in for Nismo variants) with run flat tires. While these tires may help you out if you get a flat they don’t offer the same kind of ride or grip as you will get from a set of non-run flat options from the likes of Yokohama or Michelin, so many people opt for a 10x20in wheel with a more performance-orientated type.

If you’re thinking about swapping your factory wheels then the sky really is the limit when you looking to fill those cavernous factory arches, with plenty of sizes available from 20-22in. Here’s out top five choices to get you inspiration going…

Enkei SR01MG

They advise you not to run a staggered set-up on all-wheel-drive cars, but if it’s good enough for Top Secret’s 230mph 1100bhp demo, that runs a 10x20in and 11x20in set-up, then it’s good enough for us. Enkei’s SR01MG is a split six-spoke forged magnesium monoblock which comes in Piano Black only. These weigh in at 8.8kg and 9.9kg respectively and only 40 units were ever made, so they’re about as rare as they come.

Tech spec

Available in: 20in diameter. 10-11in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET15 to 35 offset. 66mm center bore. Wheel type: Forged magnesium monoblock. Weight: 19.4 lbs-21.83 lbs (8.8 kg-9.9 kg). Colors available: Piano Black.

Where to buy: Enkei

BBS RI-D

The BBS RI-D monoblock has a real classy, almost OEM look to it, especially in the Diamond Black finish. BBS claimed the forged wheel was the first to be made from extra-super duralumin alloy, which is as strong and durable as it sounds. Available in 19in, 20in and 21in plus a number of widths this wheel ticks pretty much every box for us.

Tech spec

Available in: 19-21in diameter. 8-12in widths. 5×108 – 5×130 PCD. ET10 to 71.6 offset. 63.4-72.5mm center bore. Wheel type: Forged Duralumin monoblock. Weight: (7.3 kg-10 kg). Colors available: Diamond Golf, Diamond Silver, Diamond Black, Matte Black.

Where to buy: BBS

WORK Emotion CR-2P

In the Emotion CR-2P WORK have taken the popular CR Kiwi design and created a two-piece wheel with hidden hardware, that allows a whole number of fits and finishes. We’d suggest a 10.5 x 20” wheel on your R35, but the finish? Well, that’s down to you…

Tech spec

Available in: 17-20in diameter. 7.5-12.5in widths. 4×98 – 5×120 PCD. Various offsets. Various center bore. Wheel type: Two-piece split rim. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: Fully custom choice. 

Where to buy: WORK Wheels

RAYS Nismo LMGT4

The limited edition LMGT4 is the result of a collaboration between renown wheel manufacturer RAYS and famed Nissan tuner Nismo. It was designed specifically with the GT-R in mind and for the R35 we’d suggest actually stepping down in diameter to 10.5 x 19in with a chunky cut slick tire. Gloss black all the way with this one, as it’s the only option…

Tech spec

Available in: 18-19in diameter. 9.5-10.5in widths. 5×114.3 PCD. ET12 to 15 offset. 66mm center bore. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: 19.4 lbs (8.8 kg) for 9.5 x 18in. Colors available: Gloss Black.

Where to buy: RAYS Wheels UK

CCW Corsair C10

If you’re after a serious drag set-up then CCW’s fully-forged single-piece Corsair C10 is perfect. Okay, it’s not the cheapest, but it’s up there with the lightest and toughest around. A good set up for the strip is 10 x 18in and 12 x 18in with staggered 275/45 and 345/35 drag slicks.

Tech spec

Available in: 18-20in diameter. 6-13in widths. Multiple PCDs. Various offsets. Multiple center bores. Wheel type: Forged monoblock. Weight: Dependent on spec. Colors available: 22 colors to choose from.

Where to buy: CCW

The post Best Nissan Skyline GT-R Wheels appeared first on Fast Car.

Toyota’s 2JZ-GTE has been one of the best known engines in the car tuning scene for the last couple of decades. To most modified car fans it has an almost God-like status among engines.

But is that status justified? Yes! This is an engine that, unlike most other great engines, doesn’t come from a motorsport background. The Supra GT and Le Mans race cars didn’t run 2JZs! For reasons we may never know, Toyota wildly over-engineered the engine, meaning the tuning potential is absolutely incredible.

There are 2JZs that have ran 5 second quarter miles and others that have done over 330mph. All from an early 90s engine that left the factory with 320bhp or less. And guess what? We’re here to show you how to tune 2JZ-GTE and unlock its full potential.

What is the Toyota 2JZ-GTE engine?

The 2JZ-GTE is an iron block, three-liter, inline six cylinder, with a twin cam 24 valve cylinder head, and twin sequential turbochargers. From the factory it came in certain versions of the JZA80 (aka Mk4) Supra and JZS147/JZS161 (aka Mk1+2) Aristo. First produced in 1991, the only big change was in 1997 when the VVTi version added variable valve timing to the mix. That’s how it stayed up until the end of production in 2002.

Aside from the cylinder head change, there are some minor turbo changes between versions. Technically, the export market versions have a few more minor upgrades that the Japanese ones did not. However, in the grand scheme of things, they’re all fairly insignificant. Every single incarnation of the 2JZ-GTE has the potential to make hypercar beating power levels with relative ease.

The basics of Toyota 2JZ-GTE tuning, Boost Pressure Upgrade (BPU)

Before you go wild chasing big power numbers, the first thing to do is make sure the engine is capable of making standard power; these engines are 20 to 30 years old after all! An overall health check; fresh cambelt; tensioner; and water pump, oil and filter change; and ideally a smoke test to make sure there’s no boost leaks, are all very wise moves before you start. This is great not only for reliability, but to make sure you’re not starting on the back foot with less than standard power.

Commonly known as the BPU, i.e. Boost Pressure Upgrade, this is the traditional and well-proven tuning method for an otherwise standard 2JZ-GTE engine. It brings you to around the maximum the factory turbochargers are capable of.

This generally consists of a full turbo back exhaust system, a boost controller, and a little box of tricks, often known as a FCD, to manipulate the signal to the MAP or MAF sensor (depending if you own a JDM model or not) to prevent the factory ECU from cutting power when you increase the boost level. These are the basics, but a front mount intercooler, one step colder plugs gapped a little closer, and an AFR gauge to make sure your fueling is safe when on boost, are also wise additions at this level.

The factory ECU can’t be tuned as such. However, it can compensate to some extent, and depending on the car, the dyno, and so on, people have seen 400-430bhp at 14-18psi from this sort of setup. Beyond this, the standard ECU, turbochargers, and fuel system all become the limits of making much more power.

Exhaust system upgrades for the 2JZ

Like all turbocharged engines, the Toyota 2JZ really responds to a freer flowing exhaust system. In fact the standard exhaust is so restrictive that a simple change to a 3inch system often drastically increases the boost level with no other changes!

You have two main choices when it comes to the exhaust for your 2JZ-GTE. Do you want a three inch system, or a four inch system? 3 inch exhausts were always the traditional size for years and are proven at over 700 horsepower. However, with the more recent availability of 4 inch systems, they are worth seriously considering beyond around the 500bhp mark. The larger diameter gives gains in both spool and power, and is a must beyond 700bhp. Some people have achieved over 1500bhp on a full length 4 inch system.

The two other considerations when it comes to 2JZ-GTE exhausts are weight and volume. Taking the Supra exhausts from Garage Whifbitz as an example, they offer both 3inch and 4inch systems; both with one or two silencers, and the option of being made of stainless steel or titanium.

For track day use, a two silencer version is highly recommended to enable you to pass noise limits. But, if you’re all about the volume, a straight through single box exhaust is the one for you and is slightly lighter also.

When it comes to weight, all aftermarket exhaust systems are far lighter than the standard item, around half in fact; but for the ultimate in lightness, not to mention the cool factor, the titanium systems are top of the tree. The Whifbitz 4 inch titanium system c oming in at just 6kg for example!

Intake system upgrades for the Toyota 2JZ

While the factory intake setup is fine for mildly tuned engines, it’s of zero use for big power. If you’re sticking with the factory twin turbo setup there are various cone filter kits available, all of which are easy to fit. ARC made an air box which both looks to be the highest flowing and likely give the coolest air feed from off-the-shelf kits for factory turbos, but they are rare.

The vast majority of tuned 2JZ-GTEs run on a big single turbocharger. This necessitates a different intake design. Thankfully, partly due to the much simplified turbo system, and partly due to the associated aftermarket ECU which will remove the need for the MAF sensor, this is very easy. Almost all single turbo setups fitted to the 2JZ will have a four or five inch inlet turbocharger. You can either fit an air filter with a 4-5in flange directly to the turbo, or ideally closer to the front end of the car; at the end of a solid pipe to hopefully draw in colder air. Usually a simple 45degree pipe is all you need to place the air filter behind the headlight.

On the subject of cold air, cold air is good, but it comes a distant second place to enough air. That’s why almost all tuned 2JZ you see will run a large cone filter rather than an airbox. A non-restrictive airbox at 600bhp would be hard to package in a 2JZ engine bay. One capable of more power would be almost impossible. A non-restrictive huge cone filter sucking in warmer air will give far better performance than colder but restrictive airflow. For high power this is almost always the way forward.

ECU upgrades for the 2JZ-GTE

To get any worthwhile power out of the 2JZ engine, the factory ECU has to go; it doesn’t alloy tuners to satisfy the fueling and ignition needs of a big power engine. Thankfully, there are lots of options out there. While a full custom loom is a good thing as these cars are potentially 30+ years old now, if you want a simple solution most aftermarket ECUs out there have custom adapters to plug right in to the standard 2JZ-GTE loom, creating a plug-and-play solution.

Aside from the obvious improvements of being able to correctly set your fuel and ignition settings, going to a good aftermarket ECU has many other advantages too; though some extra wiring may be needed if you’re using the factory wiring loom. Drive-by-wire throttle, improved knock and boost control systems, wideband lambda air/fuel ratio control, anti-lag, launch control, and much more are all possible. This can both transform how a 2JZ will drive and help the engine stay reliable under hard use. Don’t forget though, the ECU is only as good as the person tuning it. Choosing the right tuner is even more important than your choice of ECU!

Turbocharger upgrades for the Toyota 2JZ

When you picture a 2JZ engine in your head, the one thing almost everyone imagines is a big single turbocharger; despite these engines coming with a trick sequential twin turbo system as standard. However, if you want to really unleash the massive potential of the engine, the standard setup has to go.

The standard setup is complex, relatively fragile, and maxes out at around 400-450bhp. While stock position 600bhp hybrids are possible, it’s an expensive and complex way to do things. Unless you truly wanted a factory looking engine, there’s little point in doing so.

Aftermarket ‘big’ twin turbo setups have appeared over the years, but just like the standard setup, they are rare as there are great turbo and manifold availability for single turbo setups. Twins add nothing from a performance point of view and simply add complexity and cost.

When it comes to single turbo choices, the world is your oyster. The options are getting wider all the time as new products are still constantly coming to the market for the 2JZ-GTE.

Regardless of your power goal, generally the smallest single turbo you should go for is something like a Garrett G35, Precision 6062, or BorgWarner S362. This is nothing to do with the compressor side, it’s because a turbo any smaller will have a turbine side that’s too small and restrictive for a 2JZ-GTE. With a good setup all of these units will spool up incredibly quickly.

How big you go beyond this depends on your goals. If you’re not sure what you want, any 2JZ specialist would be able to recommend a turbo for your goals. Considering people are running as big as 102mm ProMod turbos on some extreme2JZs and making well over 2000bhp, your goals can be as high as you like!

Exhaust manifold upgrades for the Toyota 2JZ-GTE

As well as the turbo itself, a vital part of single turbo conversion on a 2JZ is the exhaust manifold, and there’s a wide selection to choose from. The main choices you have to take into account are overall design, turbo flange type, and construction material.

With the design, you have a choice of single and twin scroll manifolds. A well-designed twin scroll manifold, along with a matching twin scroll turbo, generally spools noticeably faster than a single scroll setup if all else is equal. On drag cars this tends to be zero issue. However, for road and circuit cars this has to be a consideration. Another design factor is the pipework, with short runner ‘log’ manifolds available as well as more typical long runner tubular manifolds. While the tubular designs tend to make more power, they’re certainly more complex and take up a lot more space than the log style from the likes of Artec and SPA. These are very simple, durable, and are still proven to make big power.

Regarding turbo flange, while most conventional turbo flanges will be T4 on a 2JZ-GTE, v-band turbo flanges are becoming more common and offer many advantages. V-band setups are more compact, far easier to fit, and allows the turbo to be fitted at any rotation you like. Unfortunately twin scroll v-band manifolds and turbochargers are rare. You are generally limited to single scroll setups if you choose v-band.

Finally, the construction material. The most common is the welded stainless steel pipe we are all familiar with, but these are more prone to cracking compared to cast items. Cast iron 2JZ manifolds exist from SPA Turbo. Artec make cast stainless steel versions, including long runner twin scroll types, effectively giving you the best of both worlds.

Inlet manifold upgrades for the 2JZ

While people have made over 800bhp on the standard 2JZ-GTE manifold, that’s not to say it can’t be improved long before that. People have shown worthwhile dyno proven gains by fitting an aftermarket inlet manifold even at the sub 600bhp mark.

Hypertune, Plazmaman, Ross Machine, Gato, ProJay and many others make 2JZ inlet manifolds. As well as looking awesome, they are capable of massive power levels. Most of these even have the option of running two injectors per cylinder for you massively power hungry people out there. The ProJay billet inlet has the option for 3 injectors per cylinder, i.e. 18 injectors, just in case you want to build a 2000bhp+ Methanol guzzling drag monster.

Engine internal upgrades for the Toyota 2JZ

Last but by no means least on our how to tune a 2JZ-GTE guide is the literal heart of the 2JZ-GTE, the engine internals themselves. These engines are legendarily strong and capable. It’s an engine that is famous for being able to make over 1000bhp on standard internals. But does that mean it’s a good idea? Well, not really, and besides, these engines can make over twice that if you want!

Yes they can make absolutely massive power on standard internals, but if you want a reliable engine that can take that power for long periods of time, especially on pump fuel, realistically 700bhp is about the ‘safe’ limit. Even then you’re on relatively borrowed time depending on how hard you use your car.

The standard valvetrain and internals tend to be happy enough to around 7500rpm, but any more tends to rapidly show issues. A big turbo car with longer duration camshafts that will be driven hard at high rpm will want uprated valve springs, h-beam rods and ARP rod bolts; ideally even billet main caps too. While the stock pistons and head gasket are incredibly strong, as the engine has to come apart regardless, it’s generally wise to change these at the same time.

The standard crank is fantastic and generally has no issues at big power and rpm, but many stroker kits exists. You can take them to 3.2ltr, 3.4ltr, 3.5ltr, and even a Tomei 3.6ltr kit, all noticeably improving torque and turbo spool. Bear in mind, though, bigger is not always better, especially for high rpm reliability. Choose wisely to suit your goals.

Billet 2JZ engines

But what if you’re an absolute mad man and want 1400bhp or more and you’re at the level where even the standard Toyota 2JZ block can actually be a weak point? No problem! Dart produce an aftermarket 2JZ-GTE block that’s even stronger than standard. It comes with much stronger 4 bolt main caps too. If you really want the ultimate though, maybe a 2500bhp 2JZ, Bullet Racing make a full billet 2JZ block for the ultimate in both strength and bling!

Check out our Toyota Supra Mk4 buyer’s guide. 

The post Toyota 2JZ Engine Guide & How To Tune It appeared first on Fast Car.

Iconic hot hatch fan? Well, you’ll probably be thinking of the Peugeot 205 GTI and Volkswagen Golf GTI from the 80s, or maybe the Citroen Saxo VTS and Renault Clio Williams of the 90s. So, what about the first-generation R53 Mini Cooper S as be your hot hatch pick of the noughties.

R53 Cooper S highlights were the sharp steering and keen chassis, plus with up to 210bhp when fitted with a John Cooper Works (JCW) tuning kit, this Mini offered giant-killing performance. In addition, it has one of the most iconic Classic Mini performance badges on the boot – Cooper S.

New Mini Old Tricks

The R50 ‘New’ Mini Cooper, launched in July 2001, offered much for hot hatch enthusiasts, being great to drive, with cheeky but sympathetic styling, quality build and impressive safety features. However, when it came to the performance, with just 120bhp, the Cooper only really deserved ‘warm’ hatch status.

Right from the start, semi-disguised prototypes were featured in magazines and on-line, and a faster MINI (than the Cooper) was always on the cards. Despite the increase in performance, BMW deliberately didn’t mess with Frank Stephenson’s clever update of the iconic original Classic Mini.

Biggest changes over the Cooper, included the functional letter box vent on the bonnet, it’s designed to feed air directly into the intercooler. At the back, there is a Classic Mini-like twin center exhaust – with two smaller Coke can-style finishers. Elsewhere, there are chunkier, chrome-less bumpers, different side skirts, and a larger rear spoiler. Inside, the most obvious change, are the more supportive sports seats.

With the standard Eaton supercharger, stronger Getrag six-speed manual, and 1.6-litre Tritech engine, the performance lived up to the iconic badge. But to get to the magic double ton figure, BMW specialists were quick to offer tuning kits, although their official response, the JCW kit was the only one not to void the official warranty.

Mini Cooper S R53 engine tuning

To increase the R53 Cooper S’s performance, you’re probably best looking at its standard Eaton M45 supercharger first. To get more horsepower, you’ll need to get it spinning faster. This can be achieved by reducing the size of the supercharger, with prices starting around $146 for a quality Alta or CravenSpeed item. Although you’ll have to factor in the cost of buying ($/£94) or renting (around $/£25 for a week) a supercharger pulley removal tool. Or, get a specialist to do it. Up to 21bhp can be gained by increasing the boost between 3-5 PSI, depending on the size of the pulley.

Making the supercharger spin faster equals more heat, so after changing the pulley, it is best to look at reducing intake and supercharger temperatures. To do this you’ll need an uprated intercooler. One OEM solution, if you can find one, is to fit the bigger intercooler from the last-of-line limited build GP. It stays cooler for longer, allowing an R53 Cooper S to hold peak power for extended periods – but it’s expensive, with second hand items priced from £1,500!  Otherwise, an Airtech item costs $/£1900 for example.

The ultimate performance modification for the R53 Cooper S, is to junk the supercharger altogether and fit a turbocharger kit, from well-known specialist 1320MINI. Priced at just over $/£1527, the kit includes a Garrett GTX turbo, 1320 Pro Alloy intercooler and a Tial wastegate.

Mini Cooper S R53 exhaust tuning

After the smaller supercharger pulley, and an uprated intercooler, the next area to upgrade, is the flow of exhaust gasses – by fitting a performance exhaust – it also improves the sound! There are plenty of options to suit most budgets, but it’s probably best to start with cat back exhausts, prices start from $381. Around $686 will get you the highly regarded Milltek system. You can go even further by adding a manifold and even a de-cat pipe. These will give more horses, but add to the sound, which could be too much for road use.

Transmission

The standard six-speed manual transmission was supplied by long time BMW gearbox collaborator, Getrag. It is not known to give problems, although the gearchanges can sometimes be difficult – which are a characteristic. However, if you’re upping the power or grip of your R53 Cooper S, it’s worth upgrading your clutch material and pressure, for example by fitting an organic clutch kit, from Helix priced at $663. Or, if your Cooper S is built for torque, a 4 paddle clutch from Helix could be the solution and is priced at $/£845.

Facelift models from 2004 were offered with a limited-slip differential option, but the only R53 with it fitted as standard, is the last-of-line, limited build GP. So, fitting an aftermarket Automatic Torque Biasing (ATB) differential, after fitting other engine modifications is worthwhile. Priced from $/£726, a new clutch and flywheel should be fitted at the same time.

Late in the R53’s production life, Mini offered a proper six-speed torque converter automatic gearbox. Mainly for the American market, it was fitted with steering-wheel-mounted paddles, and is strong enough for the JCW 210bhp kit to be fitted.

Mini Cooper S R53 brake upgrades

The standard disc brake set up might be fine on the R50 Mini, but is unchanged for the R53 Cooper S, and frankly are a bit weak with extra horsepower. So, if you’re making power upgrades, increasing the braking power is a necessity.

A set of upgraded brake pads can help, but an OEM solution is a JCW upgrade. Mini’s JCW solution could be retrofitted to new and used Cooper S’s, and was standard on the JCW GP. If you can find a refurbished set you’re looking around $/£635 a caliper.

A more cost-effective OEM+ brake solution, is to fit a set of later JCW Brembo calipers, from the second-generation R56 JCW hatch. Refurbed sets start at $/£450, with a new set costing you $/£1907.

The ultimate upgrade, is a big brake kit, but this is another costly option, at over £/$1400 .

Suspension upgrades

The R53 has already built a reputation for being great to drive, but the oldest 2002 cars are now 22 years old, so before any suspension upgrades are made, we’d suggest checking the condition of the bushes, and fit upgraded aftermarket items from manufacturer, such as Powerflex, and are priced from $/£94.

Simplest and most cost effective mod is to fit a set of lowering springs, dropping the MINI by as much as 30mm, they will also improve the handling, cornering and stopping of your Cooper S. A set of lowering springs from Eibach, costs $/£298.

Another R53 Cooper S suspension upgrade, is to fit a set of coiover damper and spring kits. On top of the lowered stance, and improved cornering, coilovers offer owners the opportunity to tune the damping force to how you’d like it. Coilover prices start at about $762 for the Tein Street kit.

Perhaps the ultimate R53 MINI Cooper S suspension soloution, is air suspension. This is where the suspension struts and springs are replaced by airbags that are powered air compressor that’s usually boot-mounted. Then, the suspension height can be adjusted to personal choice via the touch of a button. However, all this adjustability comes at a cost, as the Airrex kit costs almost $/£5975.

Wheel and tyre upgrades

A simple wheel change can make a big difference to a Mini’s looks. Optimum wheel size are 17s, but the standard wheels are heavy, so it’s probably best to look at aftermarket options. Watch the curb damage, as the biggest wheels are the most susceptible, and wheel damage could also affect the suspension alignment, which in turn will impact the Mini’s entertaining handling.

For inspiration, be sure to check out our guide to the best aftermarket wheels in 2024.

R53 Mini Cooper S interior upgrades

Expect seat squeaks and rattles on the earliest cars; it’s also highly likely that side bolsters of the sports seats will be scuffed. The standard sports seats might be a decent step up from those fitted to the Cooper – but if you want to go the OEM route, your options are limited to finding secondhand OEM Sparco, or Recaro seat, these seats are costly, with the Sparco seats starting at around $/£1525. A set of bucket seats are a more cost-effective solution, with prices starting at about $/£381.

The rear seats of a Mini are only really suitable for children, but the GP proved you didn’t need them in a performance Mini. Many specialists offer a GP seat delete option, which is basically a trimmed boot floor going over where the rear seats were. These can even be made by owners. You can go even further, by fitting a half rear cage – although, these are mostly for the looks.

R53 Mini Cooper S exterior upgrades

If you want to make your R53 Cooper S stand out more, the OEM Aero body kit really toughens up the looks. However, new kits are long gone, and secondhand examples are costly. However, even a set of Aero side skirts can make a difference. Other body and wide arch kits are avialable, in varying quality and fitment – so buy with caution!

For an aftermarket rear wing, we’d recommend the GP-like Orranje G-Wing, available in carbon, like the GP original, priced at from $/£445.

Looking to buy an R53? Check out our R53 buying guide for advice.

Words: Martyn Collins. 

The post Mini Cooper S R53 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Building on the massive Mk7 Fiesta ST tuning scene, the foundations for improving the performance of the Mk8 ST were already in place long before the car was even launched. As such, numerous fast Ford specialists were quick to get to grips with the upgrades. Today you’re well catered for. Whether it’s just a simple remap or a big-turbo monster you’re after, there are specialists ready to deliver.

Of course, the sweet spot for most enthusiastic owners is somewhere in between those two extremes. The exact mods you opt for will depend ultimately on what you want from the car. Is it a B-road bruiser? A track-day racer? Or a show stunner?

But the good news there are loads of options. Here are just some of the mods we’d recommend for tuning the Mk8 ST.

Tuning the EcoBoost engine

The Mk8 ST’s EcoBoost may have lost 100cc and dropped a cylinder compared to the Mk7, but that hasn’t made it any less tuneable. Or powerful.

Engine remap

Your first step should be a performance remap. Even if you’re keeping the car totally stock elsewhere! A first-stage software upgrade (that requires nothing more than a decent panel filter in the stock airbox) will really bring the ST to life. You’ll enjoy sharper throttle response, better pulling power, and ultimately more horsepower too.

The only caveat is to choose a calibration from a reputable company. Do your homework and choose one of the many respected Ford tuners in the scene, and you’ll enjoy all the benefits without any compromise. Mountune, Laird Performance, Revo, and Collins Performance all have first-stage software upgrades for the Mk8 ST, with prices ranging from £300 to £600.

That will quench your thirst for power for a while, but those looking to take engine tuning to the next level will start reaching the limits of the factory hardware pretty quickly.

Performance exhaust & air filter

The fundamentals of air filter and exhaust upgrades come next and are well supported by upgrades from the main names in Ford tuning. Mountune offers a very impressive carbon induction kit for £399, but alternatives are also available from as little as £150. The good news is, at this point you don’t need to start worrying about expensive sports cats and sports GPFs, and a decent cat-back system will bring a healthy growl to your ST as well as getting rid of the unwanted gases fast enough not to impede engine tuning.

Sports intercooler

A performance intercooler is next on the list to keep the charge air temps under control (prices range from £310 for the Stage 1 Airtec unit through to nearly £1000 for the massive Pro Alloy upgrade). The Mk8’s 1.5-litre EcoBoost also struggles with restrictive pipework, so a big boost pipe kit, high-flow throttle elbow, and induction hose will all make a notable difference too.

Time for another remap?

Collins says its CP2 software adapts as you add further hardware upgrades so there is no need for further software upgrades at this point, whereas other software is designed to work with hardware upgrades: Mountune’s M260 and Revo’s Stage 2 work best with an induction kit, intercooler, and charge pipe upgrade, while Laird’s Stage 2 software ideally requires an intake, intercooler, sports cat and GPF delete for optimal results.

These fundamental upgrades will take power to around 260-270bhp without any problem, but for more you’ll need to replace the turbo. As with the Mk7 ST, there are several turbo upgrade options for the Mk8 too.

Big turbo upgrades

Mountune has recently released its new hybrid turbo that forms the foundations of the m285 upgrade, while Collins Performance has been working closely with Turbo Technics and the new S285 hybrid turbocharger to offer complete upgrade kits for the Mk8 Fiesta ST. Existing m260 customers can upgrade to the m285 for less than £2000, while the Collins S285 turbo and CP3 software is available for around £1600 outright, or as little as £1050-£1300 if you exchange your old turbo. But, both the m285 and CP3 packages recommend upgrading to forged pistons and con-rods too, so factor this into any budgets.

Hybrid turbo kits take power to around 280-290bhp, which is about the limit for bolt-on upgrades for the Mk8 at present. But with some custom tuning and bit of forward thinking, well into the 300bhp range is easily possible.

Transmission Upgrades

Like the Mk7 ST, the Mk8 seems to handle power increases remarkably well. Even the stock clutch seems happy until you start fitting bigger turbos and chasing 300bhp. Upgrades are available, though, starting at around £300.

One thing you will want to invest in is an upgraded lower torque mount to reduce engine movement and the likelihood of any wheel hop under hard acceleration. Collins Performance offer a CNC machined aluminium stabilizer that’s available with either Powerflex’s yellow (70A) bushes, or the stiffer Purple (80A) bushes for track use, which costs £115. Owners also report more positive gear shifts as a result too.

Finally, a quick shift kit (prices start around £55) is a simple upgrade that makes a positive difference and is something you’ll benefit from every time you drive the car.

Mk8 Fiesta ST Tuning: Suspension

The Fiesta has always been famed for its playful handling, and the Mk8 continues that tradition. But, as ever, the excellent base Ford gave us can be improved upon.

Lowering springs

The first step, and more than enough for most users, is a set of lowering springs. These cost around £150-to-£200 and work with the OE dampers to provide OE levels of comfort but with a meaner stance that offers reduced body roll, better turn-in, and an all-round sharper handling experience. They’re not expensive and make a huge improvement to how the car looks as well as how it drives.

Coilovers

For more serious drivers, or those venturing on track a few times a year, a good set of coilovers might be a better option. Bilstein’s B16 kit and KW’s Variant 3 coilovers are among the best available, and cost around £1600. Ford even fitted adjustable coilovers to the Performance Edition, and ST Edition, which can be retro-fitted and costs about £1800. The compromise in ride quality might not be ideal for all owners, but a good set of coilovers will certainly help see your lap times tumble on track.

A quality set of poly-bushes and chassis stiffening braces take things to the next level before we begin to enter uncompromising, stripped-out race car territory.

Performance Brakes

One area that can be improved without any negative side-effects is the brakes. Start by replacing the OE-spec pads with some quality fast-road upgrades. These can be accompanied by performance discs and brake lines to provide a performance overhaul of the standard stoppers.

But the ultimate in braking means swapping the factory calliper for something more manly. That doesn’t always mean having to go massive though: a decent 330mm brake kit works wonders on the little ST, and Pumaspeed offers a complete bolt-on 330mm/4-pot kit for just over £900.

Upgrading Wheels and Tyres

Wheels are always a game changer, and it’s no different with the latest Fiesta. The stock ST alloys are fantastic, but if you want to make your Mk8 stand out from the crowd then a new set of alloys is the way to do it. If you choose wisely, you can also save yourself a good few kgs over the stock ones and have even more clearance for bigger brakes too.

We’d suggest sticking with 18in rims for a road car, but – as with the Mk7 – track fans may find a smaller 17in or even 16in wheel better for handling on circuit.

The stock wheels are 7.5J with an offset of ET42.5, but you can play around a little an run an 8J rim with a slightly lower offset and fill the arches better – many specialists recommend retaining the 205-section tyre to avoid and clearance issues, although we have seen owners running 215s without any fuss.

Mk8 Fiesta ST Tuning: Exterior

The ST already looks sharp with its sports styling, but those aggressive looks can be beefed up even further with some well-placed subtle upgrades. The ever popular low-line splitter kits work well on the Mk8 to accentuate its sporting credentials, and pair up with lowering springs to give a ground-hugging race car-like stance. There’s plenty to choose from too; Delta Styling, Maxton Designs, and Triple R Composites all have a catalogue of styling parts for the Mk8 ST.

Interior Mods

All Mk8 STs come well-equipped, but of you’ve already got a top-spec ST-3 model, or have the sought-after Track Pack added then you’ve already got an ideal fast road setup that’s practical enough for the odd track day too.

If you do want to personalise things, a set of sporty bucket seats from Corbeau do the trick. You can take things further with rear seat deletes and Airtec Motorsport even does a bolt-in show cage too. Adding a false floor and a cargo net allows you to retain some kind of boot space. Things start to look very OEM-plus – like a kind of Fiesta ST Clubsport; perfect for cruising across to Germany in comfort, setting some blistering laps around the Nürburgring, and then cruising home again.

The post Mk8 Fiesta ST Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Audi was a late-comer to the hot hatch market, but in 2011, it entered the segment with a bang. It took the ballistic turbocharged 2.5-litre, five-cylinder engine from the TTRS two-seater and slung in into the engine bay of its practical five-door A3. This endowed the hatchback with a whopping 340bhp and 332lb ft of torque, which at the time was considerably more than the then-current kings of the hot hatch scene could muster. Obviously, this was far too much grunt to be put to the tarmac by just the front wheels, so Audi combined it with an advanced Haldex four-wheel-drive system and seamlessly-shifting S-Tronic dual clutch transmission, gifting their new halo model a 0-60mph time of just 4.6 seconds.

Flared front arches made from lightweight carbon reinforced plastic and an aluminium bonnet were added, not only to offset some of the weight of the heavy iron block motor and reduce its propensity to understeer, but also give the hatch a much more muscular aesthetic which was topped off with a deeper and more aggressive front bumper.

This produced a seriously potent package straight out of the box, but tuners were quick to realise that this was merely the tip of the iceberg, and by choosing the right modifications power-hungry owners could easily unleash its true potential, all without adversely affecting its driveability and practicality.

How to tune an Audi RS3 8P

To guide you through the process of tuning your Audi RS3 and ensure you get the biggest bang for your buck, we’ve broken down the car into its component parts to give you specific advice on how to maximise each area. We’ll show you which parts you’ll want to upgrade – as well as which ones work fine from the factory – to let you know the essential areas to spend your cash to get the very best from what is an extremely capable car.

In this guide we’ll focus on the Audi RS3 8P mode, built between 2011 and 2013, but the second generation 8V model is quite similar, so much of the advice may cross-over.

Audi RS3 Engine Tuning

Immensely tuneable, the RS3 8P’s 2.5-litre, five-cylinder CEPA engine has bags of power and torque and throws in an orchestral engine noise as well. It’s iron block is extremely strong and so are the engine’s internals, meaning it can withstand huge boost increases with ease, so few owners feel the need to go changing much when it comes to internals and prefer to spend their cash on bolt on modifications and software updates, as these can yield substantial gains and while retaining excellent reliability.

Saying that, it’s not an engine that’s without issues. Original injectors are known to be troublesome, with tales of them sticking opening and flooding the cylinders with fuel to the point of hydrolocking. Most tuners will ask that these are replaced with much more reliable revised items before attempting even mild upgrades, so prepare to make the switch if they are still originals. Likewise the original coil packs can degrade, reducing spark output and limiting power. Again, a swap to revised items can see a big improvement in performance and economy, if the old ones are past their best.

Finally, the engines are renowned for coking up, so ensure you budget to have the cylinder head fully de-coked before you pursue any tuning, as you could be limiting yourself due to air-flow restrictions caused by this kind of build-up.

Intake Tuning

Engine breathing is at the forefront of all tuning, but the RS3’s standard airbox is actually pretty good, both in terms of air flow and avoiding heat soak, so it’s not essential for power purposes to change it unless you are looking at aiming for over 600bhp, although a freer flowing aftermarket filter element is certainly going to be an improvement. What will improve drastically with an aftermarket intake, however, is the noise.

The RS3’s five-cylinder motor produces one of the best engine sounds around and many owners upgrade the intake just to allow the motor to sing. Options range from relatively cheap, such as the Ramair Jet Stream at around £240, to mid-range such as the Leyo Motorsport kit at just over £600, to the eye-wateringly expensive, such as the 034 Motorsport carbon-fibre cold air intake at just over £1000. How much better one is than the other in terms of their performance is a matter for debate, but many owners opt for the more expensive kit as the carbon pipework is a great cosmetic upgrade to enhance the look of the engine bay.

Exhaust Tuning

A much bigger impact can be had on the RS3’s engine breathing by removing restrictions in the exhaust system. From the factory the 8P comes with three catalytic converters, one primary one in the turbocharger downpipe and two secondary ones in the mid pipe. As you can imagine, these pose quite a prominent restriction to both gas flow and the exhaust note, so removing them can give you large gains in both departments. The cheapest option is to merely delete the two secondary cats, this will release more of that glorious soundtrack, but not too many ponies. The next step up the later would be a freer flowing cat-back exhaust system from the likes of Milltek Sport or Scorpion.

These are available for around £1200 and will give the improved sound and, when combined with the secondary de-cats, will also improve flow, giving a small increase in power. However, the most potent option is definitely to delete the primary cat in the turbo downpipe. These will cost around £750 – £850. This causes the greatest restriction and can release the most power when removed and combined with a suitable Stage 2 remap. This last step is essential when removing the primary cat, as it has lambda sensors before and aft that will throw engine lights if removed without updating the ECU software.

Engine ECU Remapping

Like many modern turbocharged cars, the RS3 responds extremely well to ECU tuning, as experienced tuners can liberate a whole chunk of performance just by plugging a lap top into the standard ECU and crunching the numbers.

Most tuners such as MRC Tuning, APR, Revo and Ecotune offer their remapping services as a series of ‘stages’. Most start at around £550 for stage one, with later stages getting more expensive as the level of complexity and power potential increases.

Although all are subtly different in their approach and specifics, most follow the same pattern of stage one being suitable for a car with standard hardware, stage two is for cars that have the requisite bolt-on modifications to intake, exhaust, fueling and ignition, and stage three is for cars that have all of the above, plus a larger aftermarket turbocharger.

Full standalone ECUs are available for the RS3, but are only necessary if you are building an insane race-level machine that requires the additional functionality and control that only the top level aftermarket ECUs offer. They are also extremely expensive to both purchase, install and setup properly.

Cooling upgrades

Extra boost means the small stock intercooler will start to struggle, so an intercooler upgrade is highly recommended if you are upping the boost considerably, especially if your goal is to achieve more than 400bhp. Gloucester alloy artisans Forge Motorsport are the go to guys here and offer a much larger intercooler in an efficient and free-flowing bar-and-plate design for around £1200. This includes a modified version of the standard Audi crash bar, as the new ‘cooler is simply too big to fit with the original unmodified version. This gives much improved cooling and flow rate allowing more boost to be run while keeping intake temperatures to a minimum. Similar options are also available from Wagner Tuning for a similar price, while Airtec have uprated intercooler options (also complete with modified crash bar) from around £870.

Fueling

The RS3 runs a high pressure fuel pump, but it will start to struggle when boost levels increase and you will notice it topping out why trying to reach the torque figures you are aiming for. A swap to a higher flowing item from the likes of APR will cost around £2500 – £3000 and is necessary for any builds that are running a Stage 3 remap or a big hybrid turbo conversion. The standard injectors are fine when it comes to flow rates, but early original items are known to have problems, including sticking open and flooding the engine, so it’s recommended to swap to later revised items before any tuning takes place, just to be sure they are suitable and flowing correctly.

Ignition

The 8P RS3’s standard ignition system is generally decent, however, coilpacks are known to deteriorate, leading to weaker sparks and eventually not delivering either enough voltage to maintain spark integrity at higher boost levels. A swap to a set of revised OEM coilpacks is usually all that is required to ensure smooth running and make a good base for future tuning. A swap to a set of colder grade NGK iridium spark plugs is also often recommended before any serious tuning work commences.

Turbo

The standard RS3 turbocharger is good for up to 440bhp, but, due to their compact size, they struggle to flow enough air to achieve a great deal more. The answer to this dilemma is to bin it and install a £2000 TTE500 turbo. This is based on the original turbine but is home to a much larger TTE compressor wheel, for high efficiency and flow. As the name suggests, this is capable of producing enough boost for over 500bhp when combined with suitable supporting modifications to the fueling, cooling and a Stage 3 remap of the ECU.

Audi RS3 8P transmission tuning

The RS3’s advanced Haldex four-wheel drive, dual-clutch transmission is a robust unit, with no need for replacement parts to contain even the most audacious power increases. What is worth doing however, is calibrating the gearbox software. This can cost from £350 to £1500 depending on the level of complexity you require, but the results are well worth it, as it will not only allow the gearbox to shift through the ratios much faster, but will also smooth out any jerkiness between shifts and can also increase the clutch plates clamping force, eliminating clutch slip. The software can also give the driver full control of upshifts in manual mode so you can utilise a higher rev range for improved acceleration.

Audi RS3 8P suspension tuning

Audi’s legendary quattro all-wheel drive system is known to produce prodigious grip levels in all conditions, which makes putting down the RS3’s brutal 340bhp a breeze, but its suspension can certainly be improved upon, both in terms of handling and looks.

Springs and dampers

A set of uprated lowering springs and uprated dampers from the likes of Bilstein will not only lower the ride height of your RS3, but it will also lower the centre of gravity and stiffen the suspension too, reducing body roll and improving grip in the corners for around £800. Beyond this, the German suspension gurus have a set of adjustable B16 coilovers available from around £1800 and these will give you even more control, over both the exact ride height and level of damping, allowing you to tailor the car’s handling to your own taste.

Anti-roll bars

Anti-roll bars resist your car’s propensity to body roll. By fitting stiffer items you can increase their effect. For the RS3, its recommended to focus attention at the rear of the car, where an upgraded one from the likes of H&R produces good results for around £190. This should also help reduce the car’s in-built propensity to understeer, giving more neutral handling and improved grip in the corners.

Geometry

Any performance car will benefit from a proper alignment of its suspension geometry and the four-wheel drive RS3 is especially sensitive to this. But don’t just add it on at your local tyre fitters when you have your new tyres fitted, as their equipment is not really set up to get the best out of your modified ride. Your best bet is to go to a specialist who has the equipment and knowledge to dial in custom camber, toe and caster settings to give you the handling you want from your car.

Audi RS3 8P brake tuning

With so much power on tap, it’s not surprising that Audi equipped the RS3 with some mighty stoppers from the factory. But while the meaty four-piston calipers are excellent, the  OEM discs and pads are known to squeal like a stuck pig as well as get overwhelmed when used hard on track. A better option for a tuned car packing greater levels of performance is to fit a set of £1500 two-piece floating discs from Vagbrem Technic along with some uprated brake pads such as Ferodo DS2500s or Pagid RS29s.

These will offer much greater bite and stopping power while resisting fade even after prolonged use on track. However, they are likely to produce a higher level of dust, so additional wheel cleaning may be needed to keep your rims looking fresh. If this still isn’t enough, then you can upgrade to a set of calipers from the newer RS3 8V model, which has larger eight piston calipers, or you can choose from a selection of aftermarket big brake kits such as those from TarOx, KSport, Alcon or Brembo. Prices for big brake kits start around £1200 right up to over £3000.

Audi RS3 8P performance wheels and tyres

The 8P RS3 runs huge 8x19in wheels as standard, which while not particularly light, do suit the car’s angular lines well. They run slightly wider rubber at the front than the rear with 235 and 225 section tyres respectively. This is to help reduce the car’s inherent understeer. If you do decide to replace the standard wheels, try and ensure you stick to these staggered tyre sizes and look for replacement wheels that are as light as you can realistically afford; this is because heavy wheels increase the amount of unsprung weight, which will dampen all the good work you have done with your suspension upgrades.

Interior upgrades for the Audi RS3 8P

Audi’s are known for their excellent built quality and lavish, tech-laden interiors and the RS3 is no exception. Some models may have the excellent RS4 bucket seats fitted from the factory, as these were an expensive options from new, but are extremely rare. You could look to carry out the same upgrade yourself if you could find a set on the second-hand market, but even then, don’t expect them to be cheap. Few people tend to go too mad with RS3 interiors, preferring instead to simply retrofit OEM parts from later models to increase the spec but retain a factory look. Other than that, replacing plastic trim with genuine carbon fibre alternatives is always a winner as is having a plush leather and Alcantara retrim in a non-factory colour to really make the interior pop.

Styling upgrades

Similar to the interiors, most RS3 owners don’t stray too far from the look that Audi intended, which is no bad thing to be honest, as they looks pretty tough straight out of the box. However, for those that fancy a little extra aggression there is a host of subtle lips, spoilers and side skirt extensions available from the likes of Maxton Design. These can either be colour coded, painted matt, satin or gloss black or even be made from the lightweight black weave, but these are likely the most expensive option. Finally, if the choice of colours for the RS3 8P seems a little limiting, then why not go for a full vinyl wrap. 3M produce practically any colour you can think of, to give your RS3 a custom look that’ll stand out from any crowd.

Looking to buy an RS3? Be sure to check out our RS3 8P buyers guide for advice.

Words: Dan Sherwood.

The post Audi RS3 8P Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

A routine four-door saloon may not sound like the ideal starting point for developing one of the greatest performance cars of all time but, in the hands of Mitsubishi’s rally-hardened engineers, the Lancer Evolution became exactly that.

One of those rare performance cars that almost single-handedly carved out a new motoring genre, the road-going rally replica, the Evo was a revelation. Being locked in an automotive arms race with its closest rival – Subaru’s Impreza STI – pushed each brand to produce ever more potent machinery in a bid to secure both the silverware on the rally stage, and become crowned king of the streets. But where some may say that Subaru’s offering gradually softened over time, Mitsubishi’s uncompromising Evo has always retained a hardcore rally kudos. Lighting fast turbocharged acceleration and awesome four-wheel-drive grip enabled the Evo to deliver in almost all weathers and make it one of the most accomplished point-to-point cars on the planet.

Of all the ten generations in its lifespan, it’s the Mitsubishi Evo VI that has enjoyed the most coveted status, largely due to it being the first official Evo available in the UK as well as through its links with Rally legend Tommi Makinen at the height of Mitsubishi’s strangle-hold on the WRC title. Add in virtually limitless tuning potential from the 280bhp 4G63 2.0-litre engine and you have a recipe for performance car heaven.

Mitsubishi Evo VI History and Specs

Launched in January 1999, the sixth instalment of the Lancer Evolution was built on the same platform as the two previous generations, but added upgrades to cooling and engine durability, including a larger intercooler and oil cooler, new pistons and a titanium-aluminide turbine wheel for the hardcore RS model. This endowed the Evo VI with a 155mph top speed and a sub five-second 0-60mph sprint. The same evolutionary approach was applied to the car’s underpinnings with the same Active Yaw Control and Brembo brakes, but with lightweight forged front suspension arms and knuckles to reduce unsprung weight.

While the basic silhouette remained largely unchanged, although the bodyshell was stiffened with thicker steel and extra spot welds, while a more aggressive front bumper and a revised twin-blade rear spoiler are the main visual clues that mark out the model from its forebears.

Special editions

Along with the same RS (Rally Sport) and GSR versions as the previous two generations (with GSR versions the first official UK models), a new model was added to the Evo VI line-up. Known as the RSX, it basically added a few of the GSR’s refinements to the stripped back Rally Sport model, while a limited edition RS Sprint added tuning by Ralliart UK to make the RS even lighter and more powerful at 320bhp.

Other potent special edition models were also released into the line-up, with the Extreme, the Zero Fighter and the wild RS450, the latter of which was an upgrade option available through UK-based Mitsubishi tuners Ralliart. But it was the Tommi Makinen Edition (TME), launched in December 1999 that was the most iconic and desirable of the bunch. Named after the legendary Finnish rally driver who had won Mitsubishi four WRC drivers championships, it featured a unique front bumper, red and black Recaro seats, 17in white Enkei wheels, lowered ride height and a titanium turbine wheel which spooled the turbo quicker. But the most eye catching aspect of the TME was the optional decal kit, which replicated the flying Finn’s rally car livery.

With the prices of Evo VI’s starting around £20k for well used base model GSRs, and immaculate, low mileage Tommi Makinen Editions stretching up into to six figures, it can take a considerable investment to buy one, let alone tune one, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t, as they have so much potential and the right mods shouldn’t affect future values. Be sure to check out our Evo VI buying guide for advice on how to buy a good one.

What areas to modify

To help you choose which modifications to make, we’ve broken the car into its component parts to give you specific advice on how to maximize each area.

We’ll show you which parts you’ll want to upgrade – as well as which ones work fine from the factory – to let you know the essential areas to spend your cash to make your Evo VI a proper stage or street slayer.

Mitsubishi Evo VI Engine Tuning

The Evo VI features Mitsubishi 2.0-litre, turbocharged, four-cylinder 4G63 engine. Like many Japanese cars of the time, the Evo VI’s power was capped under the manufacturer’s “Gentleman’s Agreement” to 276bhp, but that’s just the starting point. With the right modifications it is capable of producing power figures that’ll make your eyes water!

Exhaust Tuning

Factory exhausts are designed to keep noise to a minimum, but do so at the expense of gas flow and speed. This means you can reap huge gains by replacing the restrictive standard system with a free-flowing aftermarket exhaust alternative.

The Evo VI requires a system with a minimum internal bore of 3in, which ideally needs to remain the same diameter right from the turbo outlet elbow to the tailpipe to reap the maximum rewards. This means replacing the whole exhaust system, which while the best for performance, can be detrimental to your wallet. A cheaper alternative would be a cat-back system, or even a de-cat system. Both of these options would improve the sound of the exhaust immensely, but wouldn’t give the same power increase as a you would get with a 3in downpipe too.

Those looking for the ultimate in gasflow and throttle response will need to find the budget to also uprate the turbo manifold to a tubular design. These have much improved flow characteristics over the standard cast item, but some of the cheaper ones can suffer from cracking.

Intake Tuning

The Evo’s stock air box is a very effective design straight from the factory, limiting heat soak and offering a large filtration area for reasonable airflow. Many specialists recommended retaining the OEM box and simply replacing the filter element with a freer-flowing item from filtration specialists K&N or Pipercross. This upgrade should be enough for all but the most extreme performance goals, where you might sacrifice a higher level of heat soak for the ultimate airflow with an induction kit. However, if this is the route you choose, you should also uprate the intercooler to deal with the higher inlet temperatures and look into a dedicated air feed to direct cold air onto the filter. If you can locate your cone filter in an aftermarket air box too, then that would be the best of both worlds.

After you’ve made improvements to the filter itself, you can then move onto the intake pipe between the airbox and the turbo. This mass produced item is not smooth and causes a lot of turbulence reducing air speed into the turbo. Replacing this with an aftermarket silicone alternative from the likes of Samco Sport should produce noticeable results in performance as well as increasing the under bonnet aesthetics.

Boost upgrades

Before shoving a shedload of boost into your Evo’s engine, you’ll need to upgrade the turbo’s wastegate actuator. If it’s still an original item, these are getting on a bit now and will eventually start to fail, at best starting to creep, restricting boost, or at worst, they can rust and seize up, creating turbo-destroying overboost. The logical choice is to replace the OEM item with a 13/15 bar unit. This allows a wide choice of boost control methods to be used without issue.

Another belt and braces upgrade worth making before upping the boost is to replace the stock plastic blow-off valve. These are known to leak once you get above 17-18PSI, as well as being wildly inconsistent. A direct replacement recirculating unit from the like of GFB, Turbosmart or Forge Motorsport will work flawlessly, look good and cause no issues with idling or fueling.

Around 350bhp should be possible to achieve with the stock turbo, but above this, you will require an upgrade.  Be warned though, as turbo size is crucial, and a turbo that is too big will induce a lot of lag, robbing the engine of responsiveness. The best bet is to stick with Mitsubishi’s own range of blowers and opt for a Mitsubishi OEM TD05HR turbo from a later Evo IX, as it produces much more mid-range power and is a direct replacement. This blower should be good for well over 400bhp or more.

Fueling

The Evo’s stock fuel pump is rated for between 80-160 litres per hour. And while this might be fine for a stock level of tune, as soon as you increase the boost, you will be running it close to 100% of its duty cycle with no reserve. To give the fuel system adequate headroom for tuning a uprated item is needed. A high-flow unit from the likes of Walbro or Deatchwerks would be a good choice, and come in either 255, 300 or 400 litre-per-hour ratings, the latter being perfect for running ethanol blend fuels such as E85 which require much higher fuel delivery.

When you replace the fuel pump, it’s also worth upgrading the fuel pump wiring, as the factory wiring limits the voltage to the pump to 11-12v. Fitting a new relay and larger power wires can provide a true 13.5-14v to the pump, which can raise its performance by as much as 20%.

The fuel injectors would be the next items to be replaced, as the stock 560cc items will be working close to their limit with even mild boost increases, so an upgrade to some 750cc or even 1000cc units will help future proof the fuel system for further upgrades later down the line. A good idea is to accompany these with an uprated fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator, as this will smooth out the fuel flow and provide a larger store of fuel for the new injectors to draw from.

Engine internals

Being such a capable machine from the factory, even just an extra 100-150bhp will transform an Evo VI into a seriously fast car that will demolish practically everything else on the road. But for those who want to push the performance boundaries even further, you will need to look into strengthening the connecting rods and head studs, as these are believed to be the main weaknesses of the 4G63 when pushed with tuning. However, many people have been fine with the standard items even at big power levels, so the choice is yours.

Remapping

Unlike previous generations of Evo, whose ECU’s cannot be remapped and require an additional aftermarket system, various companies can remap the VI’s factory ECU via software systems such as Ecutek. This enables the fuel, ignition, boost and many other features of the ECU to be altered to virtually any levels of modifications. Larger injectors can be tuned in as can modifications in air flow, while speed and boost limiters are no longer an issue.

It also has the advantage of retaining all of the factory ECU features such as smooth idle, air conditioning and fan control. For more serious builds, a move to an aftermarket standalone ECU is required. These are available from the likes of Haltech, Syvecs, Link and Motec. They have greater control and much more functionality than a stock ECU, including controlling advanced features such as anti-lag, boost by gear and E85 fuel flex systems, for the ultimate set up. The only downside is they can be very expensive.

Cooling upgrades

The Evo’s factory intercooler is a decent unit, but the pipework could be better, especially the lower pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, which is often quite restrictive. Significant gains have been found in both the boost curve and throttle response by replacing this pipe with a higher flowing unit. While you’re at it, you could also replace the rest of the intercooler pipework with hardpipe or uprated silicone couplings, which will improve the looks and aid reliability and boost control, but won’t offer the same leap in performance.

As mentioned earlier, the stock airbox works well at keeping the air cool, but induction kits without shielding allow inlet temps to spike, so an uprated intercooler should be installed if you’re running one and have significantly increased the boost. As well as being more efficient at cooling, an aftermarket unit should offer an increase in air flow too, so be sure to accompany the fitment with a suitable remap to ensure air/fuel ratios remain at a safe level.

Camshafts

While there’s a wide range of different camshafts on the market, it’s important to remember to complete the upgrade as a package. This means doing the camshafts, valve springs and vernier camshaft gears all at the same time. Even if you plan on using a small profile camshaft which does not require valve springs, it’s wise to still replace them anyway. Yes, it is more expensive, but it provides much better safety, control and will be able to handle high rpm / high boost much better over a long time period.

Recommended camshaft suppliers include the likes of Camtech, BC and Crower and should be fitted along with quality cam gears. With the right cams and tuning you can expect to see large gains in horsepower and torque. However, beware that, as you go larger in the cam profiles, the car’s idle and low rpm driveability will begin to suffer, as will the fuel economy.

For the majority of owners, going for a mild profile will provide great benefits without any serious side effects and can be tuned easily with the stock ECU.

Mitsubishi Evo VI Transmission Tuning

Clutch

Being able to generate such huge grip levels from all four wheels put a huge strain on the transmission, especially the clutch, so it’s no wonder that Evos that are driven hard can start to wear out the clutch pretty quickly. To ensure there is no slippage when power levels increase its worth swapping out the stock item for a uprated alternative such as those from Xtreme or Competition Clutch. These offer uprated friction materials and stronger clamping forces to ensure none of your hard gained power increases are wasted.

Gearbox

Most Evo VI owners will never need to upgrade the car’s gearboxes, as the standard units are pretty durable if maintained correctly and aren’t subjected to too many full-power drag launches, which can cause damage. But for those wanting to push the envelope on tuning or are planning on racing their car, there are a variety of uprated five-speed dog engagement gearsets available in different gear ratios, that will offer increased strength and speed of gearchanges with minimum transmission losses. Finally, at the top of the tuning tree, there is a five-speed sequential gearbox option from Quaife that’ll turn your Evo into a full-on rally machine. Costing over £10,000, it’s not cheap, but will certainly be the ultimate cog swapper.

Differentials

When it comes to improving the performance of the Evo’s differentials, it really depends on which type of differential is fitted as standard. If you have the weaker aluminum active rear diff, most tuners advise replacing it the with the plated limited-slip differential from an RS model. This is much stronger and offers more consistent locking characteristics.

For the front and center diffs there are many options depending on the type of driving you intend to do. These vary from using Kaaz front and center diffs, to a Cusco front diff with a modified viscous center diff.

Mitsubishi Evo VI Suspension Tuning

Springs and dampers      

Developed to dominate the World Rally Championship, it’s no surprise that the Evo VI’s suspension is pretty sorted straight from the factory, but for those wanting even more hardcore handling you can swap out the standard springs and dampers for adjustable coilovers. These will allow you to tailor the car’s suspension characteristics to your driving style, by way of adjustable dampers, and set the ride height to your liking. However, don’t go and settle for the cheapest options out there, as you could easily ruin the handling and ride rather than improving it. Most top Mitsubishi tuners recommend coilover kits from brands such as KW, Bilstein, Ohlins or Intrax that over excellent ride and control as well as fully adjustable damping to ensure precise setup and top level performance.

Bushes

Most cars are fitted with rubber bushes from the factory, these are cheap and replaceable, meaning many will be worn out by now, so replacing them with a firmer polyurethane upgrade makes a lot of sense; not only do you get a genuine performance benefit of the stiffer bush and less unwanted flex in the suspension system, but they’ll never need replacing again in the future. The Evo VI is 24 years old now, so the OEM bushes are very likely well past their best, so replacing them will be a priority, especially if you are planning any other suspension upgrades.

A front and rear suspension and diff bush kit from the likes of SuperPro will cost around £630, but individual areas can be upgraded at a time to ease the financial burden.

Anti-roll bars

When you take a corner at speed, the car’s weight pitches to the outside of the turn causing the body to roll on its suspension, compressing the outside tyres into the tarmac, but reducing pressure on the inside tyres. Anti-roll bars are fitted at both the front and rear to try and reduce this effect and keep the car flatter through the bend, in turn allowing all four tyres to achieve a greater level of grip. You can increase your Evo’s resistance to body roll by fitting stiffer and thicker anti-roll bars than standard, such as those made by Whiteline. Coming in 24mm thickness at the front and rear, the pair will cost you around £570, and will improve cornering and stability over the standard items.

Geometry

The direction in which your wheels point can have a huge effect on how your car drives, which is why having a professional geometry alignment is well worth the outlay. An alignment specialist can tune your Evo’s suspension with pinpoint accuracy to work in harmony with your preferred driving style, whether that’s trips to the shops, or laps round the track, so ensure you get this done if you make any alterations to your Evo’s suspension.

Mitsubishi Evo VI Brake Tuning

The Evo VI comes with an excellent Brembo brake setup as standard, but can suffer from warped discs when used hard or on the track. An upgrade to a set of two-piece performance discs and pads such as those from Performance Friction are an excellent choice that should eliminate any warping issues while also adding extra bite and reducing fade. Beyond this you are looking at dedicated big brake kits from the likes of Alcon or AP Racing which replace both the discs and calipers with uprated items that are often much larger than the standard setup.

They also come with uprated pads, braided lines and specific caliper brackets. Most kits costs between £2000 and £2500 for the front setup only, so are a costly option but will give the ultimate in stopping power. Before you buy, check that your chosen kit will physically fit behind your wheels as some will not fit with standard rims.

Performance Wheels & Tires

As standard, most Evo Vis come equipped with 7.5x17in OZ SuperTurismo wheels with 225/45/17 tyres. This is usually adequate for most owners, as they suit the car well and are a relatively lightweight option. However, if you have upped the performance or are tracking the car and are looking for extra grip, you can go wider and lighter if you look to an aftermarket set.

Widening the rims to 8in while keeping to a 17in diameter you can utilise a 235/45/17 tyre, whereas moving up in diameter will require lower profile rubber, but should still fit up to 19 inches without issue. Just ensure you opt for good quality rubber to make the most of the traction available from the four wheel drive system. When selecting a larger rim, take note of the weight, as increases in unsprung mass will have a detrimental effect on handling, braking and acceleration, so make sure you fit the lightest ones you can afford.

Interior Upgrades

Evo interiors are functional places but most are fairly hard wearing and look decent even on older models such as the VI. The stock Recaro seats are supportive and suit the car well, but if you are tracking the car or wanting something more extreme, then a set of rally-style lightweight wraparound bucket seats from Recaro or Cobra are a good option. The rear bench is pretty lightweight so not worth removing unless you want to install a rollcage and go for the fully stripped racer look. Other than that, we’d just go for small touches like a carbon gearknob or race steering wheel to ramp up the experience and add some interior interest.

Styling Upgrades

The Evo VI, especially the limited edition TME cars, are collectible classics now, so most owners are keen to keep things looking original on the styling front, so only make major upgrades to the aesthetics if you really love it or are planning on keeping the car long term, as anything that verse away from factory could limit future values. That said, there are various carbon lip, spoiler, side skirt and mirror kits that are bolt on upgrades which could add some individuality but also be put back to standard at a later date. For the really adventurous, you could opt for a full Varis widebody conversion. Available from Evo specialists Ross Sport for just over £4000 it will transform your Evo into a full-on Time Attack weapon.

Words: Dan Sherwood.

The post Mitsubishi Evo VI Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

It’s hard to overstate the importance of tires. They’re the only bit of the car that’s actually in contact with the road, so it’s an area you don’t want to scrimp on. A few basic car maintenance checks will tell you what sort of state your rubber is in, and it’s not just a case of checking whether you have a legal level of tread and that it’s wearing evenly. Tears, cracks, missing chunks, perishing due to age, these are all things that suggest you need to replace your tires.

When it comes to choosing a new set of tires for your modified car, it’s crucial to make sure you get the right ones for you. Don’t just buy the cheapest set to get you legal again, because low-quality rubber from a brand you’ve never heard of could be a false economy. Furthermore, each big-name manufacturer offers a full range of tires tailored for specific purposes, as we’re about to learn thanks to the experts at Toyo Tires. We’ve taken seven case studies to represent seven types of user, and combed through the catalogue to see which Toyo offering suits each one in order to help you choose the right tires for your modified car.

What if I don’t want Toyo Tires?

While we’re only focusing on the popular Toyo Tires range, you can apply similar knowledge to other tire manufacturers. For example, a Nankang AR-1 is similar to a Proxes R888R, albeit slightly more track-focused. Fan of Michelin? Your high performance options on track are the Cup 2 or the Cup 2 R. A Pilot Sport 5 will offer maximum performance both in the dry and wet, and is more suited to road-going cars. Goodyear’s Eagle F1 SuperSport tire is a match for the regular Michelin Cup 2. While the regular Eagle F1 Asymmetric range goes head to head with Michelin’s Pilot Sport 5. There are plenty of options available for modifiers out there. Be sure to check out our tires advice, tips and tricks guide for more info.

without further ado, he’s our guide to choosing the right tires for your modified car.

I’ve got a lowered Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 and use it daily for commuting. I do enjoy a spirited weekend blast, what are the right tires for my modified car?

In the case of this Ford Fiesta ST Mk6, we’re looking at the Toyo Proxes TR1. Replacing the popular T1-R, the tread pattern design of TR1 blends form with function to provide outstanding performance for this sort of everyday driving with occasional fast-road use. This new design features innovative wear indicators, allowing enthusiastic drivers to take advantage of exceptional handling and grip throughout the life of the tire, while also enhancing the environmental impact of reducing waste. They also boast various design tricks – zig-zags, taper grooves, wide grooves and slant grooves – to make them effective at displacing water, making them great in the wet.

Toyo Proxes TR1

Although it’s not my main car, I use my Ford Focus RS regularly throughout the year, and occasionally take it on track at shows like Ford Fair and TRAX. What are the right tires for me?

For this sort of usage in the Ford Focus RS, the new Proxes Sport 2 tire is a very strong choice. This ultra-high performance tire allows drivers to maximize their enjoyment of power in safety, with its precise handling and exceptional wet grip. These tires have a high-stiffness outer rib which provides firm grip and stability under high-speed cornering, while the traction groove edge and lateral grooves offer real benefits when it comes to braking performance. Optimized for high-torque powertrains, Proxes Sport 2 enhances the pleasure for all sporting drivers on challenging, wet or twisting roads.

My second car is a BMW M3 track toy; I rarely use it on the road but I need to drive it to and from track days. Which tires are right for limited road use?

Toyo Proxes R888R is the tool for the job here. You can see from the aggressively sparse tread pattern that this is a tire which majors on circuit performance, and there’s an army of track day enthusiasts, grass roots motor racing championships and the likes of Ken Block, Ahmad Daham, and Mad Mike singing its praises. Fully road-legal and thus able to get you to and from the track, the R888R offers supreme dry handling with enhanced steering feel and response, combined with higher stability on the throttle, allowing drivers to carry higher speeds through corners for quicker laps. Faster cornering, longer lasting and more consistent, Proxes R888R translates power into lap times.

The family car is an Audi A6 40 TDI Quattro. The only modification is a remap, which has increased the torque massively. The other half drives the car too, so although I want more grip, I don’t want to sacrifice the ride quality. What are the right tires for my modified car?

This is prime territory for the Proxes Sport 2. Available in 18” and above, this is specifically designed for high performance applications in regular road use, it’s got the toughness to cope with high torque loads while also offering superlative grip in high-speed use. The handling characteristics offer precision and the wet grip is rated at the highest possible level, giving real peace of mind when it comes to keeping your family safe. And when you find yourself exploring the rev range on challenging twisty roads, this tire has the right stuff to deliver.

Toyo Proxes SP2

What are the right tires for my daily driver? I use it for the school run, shopping, and motorway commuting. I cover on average around 20,000 miles a year, so it needs to have a good balance of comfort, performance and longevity.

There are a few options here. Proxes Comfort is the ideal all-rounder for this sort of usage, developed to provide premium levels of stability and comfort for relaxed and enjoyable everyday driving. The new tread compound and internal structure of Proxes Comfort give the tire enhanced stability at speed, along with confident handling and excellent braking. If your daily driver is more powerful and gets driven more spiritedly, Proxes Sport adds in an extra dimension of high-speed handling and wet grip, thanks to its Nano Balance Technology compound. And the next step up is the Proxes Sport 2. Which leads us on to…

I’ve sold all my project cars and chucked all my money at modifying my VW T6 camper van. I’ve got a set of aftermarket alloys and enjoy going to shows, so I need a tyre that looks the part while parked up but doesn’t suffer from road noise while travelling up and down the country.

There are two great options here, depending on the size of those aftermarket wheels. The Toyo Nanoenergy Van is a tire available in sizes from 13”-17”, designed for light commercial vehicles and offering low rolling resistance and high rib stiffness. For larger wheels, the Proxes Sport SUV comes in diameters from 17”-22”, prioritizing superior handling and wet grip – and their low levels of noise emission mean they won’t be a headache on the motorway.

My pride and joy is my R34 Skyline GT-R. I only use it in the summer months as it’s locked away during the winter. It’s got loads of tuning goodies under the hood and has over 700bhp, so traction can be a problem. I never drive it in the rain.

Given that the Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 is a big-power machine that gets used solely in the dry, the clear answer has to be the Toyo Proxes R888R. If traction problems can be an issue with such power, you want a tire that’s specifically designed to optimize grip in high-performance applications. The GG compound has a fast warm-up time, the wide center rib gives precise steering response, and the large tread blocks on the outer area enhance cornering on the limit: it’s a tire that’s as seriously focused as your tuned performance car.

Toyo Proxes R888R

When it comes to choosing the right tires for your modified car, there’s never a catch-all answer as there are so many variables involved. For example, an everyday city runabout might be wearing 19” wheels, while a motorway-mile-munching Jaguar might be on 16”s, so there will always be options specific to your car and the way you use it.

The post How To Choose The Right Tires For Your Modified Car appeared first on Fast Car.

The sixth-generation Ford Mustang S550 is one of the most iconic and popular sports cars in the world. But in a world where reducing carbon emissions is a key objective for everyone, smoking around in a 5.0-liter V8 gas-guzzler can be seen as unnecessary. Plus, gas prices aren’t exactly what they were during the ‘60s!

So, Ford’s answer was to offer the same sporty chassis, sleek styling, and iconic Mustang name but with a more emissions-friendly 2.3-liter four-banger in place of the Coyote V8. But it wasn’t just a regular motor plucked from the Ford production line; the Mustang got the same EcoBoost unit as found in the formidable Focus RS.

Ok, it wasn’t exactly the same – there were a few minor spec changes from the RS motor – but the Mustang’s 2.3 kicked out a healthy 310 horsepower and more-than-useable 350lb.ft. The EcoBoost motor offers a great balance of power, efficiency, and affordability, but if you want to take your Mustang to the next level, there’s plenty of tuning options available. And, because the EcoBoost is turbocharged, there are significant gains to be found from simple tuning upgrades.

In this guide, we’ll show you some of the best mods and upgrades for your Mustang EcoBoost, from modest bolt-ons to more advanced tuning solutions.

What is Mustang EcoBoost Tuning? 

Tuning your EcoBoost Mustang is simply the process of modifying and optimizing the 2.3-liter turbocharged engine to increase its horsepower, torque, and responsiveness for a more exciting and rewarding driving experience. Tuning will involve changing various parts and settings of your engine, such as the intake, exhaust, turbocharger, intercooler, fuel injectors, spark plugs, camshafts, valves, pistons and more.

Getting the most from the physical tuning parts will also involve adjusting the engine’s computer (ECU) parameters – known as remapping. This process sees a tuner adjust settings such as the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, boost pressure and more to fully optimize the performance of your specific car considering the physical performance parts you have added. Remapping can be done in several ways – usually via a laptop or a handheld ECU flashing device – and it can make a significant difference in your engine’s performance.

Why Should You Tune Your Mustang EcoBoost?

There are many benefits of tuning the Mustang’s 2.3-liter EcoBoost motor, but the main reasons are to increase performance and power outputs. A more powerful engine means a faster car, but with modern tuning techniques it is also possible to increase power at the top end and improve fuel economy when cruising too.

But it’s not all about the horsepower figures; tuning will also really change the character of the car, altering the way it feels to drive and ultimately making every journey much more exciting. Sharper throttle response, a raspier exhaust note, and a greater sense of urgency are all common traits of a well-tuned Mustang.

How to Tune Your Mustang EcoBoost? 

There are many ways to tune your Mustang EcoBoost, depending on your budget, goals, and preferences. Here are some of the most common and effective tuning methods:

 Bolt-On Mods

Bolt-on mods are aftermarket parts that can be easily fitted without needing major modifications or alterations. They are usually relatively inexpensive and reversible, meaning you can go back to stock if you want to.

Some of the most popular bolt-on mods for Mustang EcoBoost include:

• Cold air intake: A cold air intake replaces your stock air filter and intake tube with a larger and smoother one that allows more cold and dense air to enter your engine. This improves your engine’s breathing and combustion efficiency, resulting in more power and throttle response.
• Cat-back exhaust: A cat-back exhaust replaces your stock exhaust system from the catalytic converter back with a larger and less restrictive system that reduces back-pressure and improves exhaust flow. This in turn improves your engine’s performance and sound, giving it a deeper and more aggressive tone.
• Downpipe: The downpipe connects your turbocharger to your exhaust system, and it’s one of the most restrictive parts of the stock setup. Replacing it with a larger and freer flowing one can reduce turbo lag and increase boost pressure, resulting in more power and torque.
• Intercooler: An intercooler cools down the hot air coming from your turbocharger before it enters your engine. This increases the air density and oxygen content, resulting in more power and efficiency. Upgrading your stock intercooler with a larger and more efficient one can prevent heat soak and improve performance in hot weather conditions or when used hard on the track or drag strip.
• Blow-off valve: A blow-off valve releases excess boost pressure from your turbocharger when you lift off the throttle. This prevents compressor surge and protects your turbo from damage. Upgrading your stock blow-off valve with a stronger and more responsive one can improve turbo spool-up and sound.

ECU Tuning

ECU tuning is the process of modifying the software that controls your engine’s computer (ECU) to optimize its performance. This can be done by using a handheld device or a laptop that plugs into your car’s OBD-II port and allows you to adjust various parameters of your engine, such as the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, boost pressure and more.

ECU tuning can also be done by sending your ECU to a professional tuner who can customize it according to your specifications. Alternatively, you can buy a pre-tuned calibration file that is already perfect for your car and use a handheld flashing device to upload the new file to your car’s ECU.

the process can make a huge difference to your engine’s performance, as it can unlock hidden power and torque that are limited by the factory settings. It can also improve your engine’s efficiency and drivability by smoothing out the power curve and eliminating any hesitation or lag.

However, ECU tuning does have some drawbacks, such as voiding any manufacturer warranty or emissions compliance. It’s always best to check a tune is legal in your State before working on your car.

Therefore, ECU tuning should be done with caution and care, and only by reputable and experienced tuners. You should also monitor your engine’s health and performance regularly and use good quality parts and fluids (including premium-grade fuels) to prevent any issues.

Turbo Upgrade

The big one! Replacing your stock turbocharger with a larger and more powerful one that can produce more boost and increase the engine’s airflow. This can significantly increase your engine’s power and torque, as well as improve your engine’s response and spool-up. Not only that, but it’s sure to make you smile every time you pop the hood and see a huge shiny turbo glaring back at you! You’ll be the envy of all your mates at the next local car meet!

However, upgrading your turbo is a complex and expensive process that requires extensive modifications and tuning to your engine and ECU. It also puts more stress and strain on your engine components, such as the pistons, con rods, head gasket, and more. Therefore, a turbo upgrade should only be done by expert tuners who can ensure proper fitment, compatibility, and reliability.

Tuning the Mustang EcoBoost: Is It Worth the Effort?

Yes. Definitely! Mustang EcoBoost tuning is a great way to enhance your car’s performance, sound, and appearance. The Mustang is supported by a fantastic network of specialists and enthusiasts, and there are plenty of tuning options available for you to choose from.

However, before tuning you should also be aware of the risks and challenges involved in tuning your engine. For more information and advice, check out our other articles on tuning:

• Beginner’s Guide to Tuning Turbo Engines
• Car Tuning: How to Performance Tune an Engine
• Best Cheap Tuning Tips to Make Your Car Faster
• Ford Mustang S550 Tuning Guide

The post Ford Mustang EcoBoost Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

The Mk3 Ford Focus ST is already a thrilling fast Ford straight from the factory. However, with the right modifications and tuning, its performance can be taken to new heights. In this comprehensive tuning guide, we’ll take you through various modifications and upgrades that will not only enhance the overall performance of your vehicle but also give it a unique and personalized touch. From engine upgrades and suspension tweaks, to advice on wheels and tires and styling tips, here’s our Ford Focus ST MK3 Tuning Guide. So, let’s dive in and unlock the true potential of your fast Ford!

Tuning the Mk3 Focus ST 2.0 EcoBoost Engine

The 2.0-litre EcoBoost has been with us since 2010. The standard 247bhp offers a lively drive, but it can be so much better with just a handful of tweaks. When it comes to enhancing the performance of your Mk3 Focus ST‘s 2.0 EcoBoost engine, there are several areas to look at. Our Focus ST Mk3 tuning guide looks at how upgrading the air filter, remapping the engine, adding a big turbo upgrade, and even considering forged engine internals can all make a huge difference in power output and driving experience.

First Steps: Air filter, Performance Exhaust, & Remap

To begin with, the basics of air filter, exhaust and remap will give 270-to-280bhp and really liven things up compared to the stock software.

One of the easiest and most effective ways to improve engine performance is by upgrading the air filter or intake system and a performance exhaust system. By increasing air flow into the engine, you can unlock additional power gains. Upgrading to a high-quality air filter allows for better filtration and increased air intake, resulting in improved engine performance.

Additionally, upgrading the exhaust system improves exhaust flow, reducing backpressure and allowing the engine to breathe more freely. This, in turn, can boost horsepower and torque, giving your Mk3 Focus ST a noticeable power increase.

Finally, an ECU remap is an essential part of maximizing power output in your Mk3 Focus ST. By modifying the ECU software that controls the engine, you can optimize the air-fuel mixture, boost levels, timing, and other parameters to achieve higher performance levels. Some popular tuning options include the Cobb Accessport, DreamScience iMap, and Mountune mTune, which allow pre-configured maps to be installed directly to the ECU. These also allow for the option of custom tuning too, where the specialist writes a file bespoke to your car which you can then upload at home.

Further Tuning: Intercooler & Sports Cat

Another crucial component to consider when tuning your Mk3 Focus ST is the intercooler. The intercooler plays a vital role in keeping the intake air temperature down, allowing for denser air and more power output. Upgrading to a larger intercooler provides better heat dissipation, enabling higher boost levels and preventing power loss due to heat soak. Here are a few key points about intercooler upgrades:

• Increased intercooler size allows for more efficient cooling of the intake air.
• Reduced intake air temperature leads to higher power levels and improved performance.
• Stock intercoolers are restricted in size, limiting their cooling capacity.

At the same time, you may want to consider swapping the original catalytic convertor for a high-flowing sports cat. The OEM cat can slow the exhaust gases from exiting the engine, causing increased back-pressure in the system. A free-flowing exhaust system allows for a better turbo spool, better throttle response, and ultimately higher peak power and peak torque figures.

Forged engine internals

The previously mentioned upgrades will see your ST kicking out around 300bhp. That’s more than enough for most and is arguably the sweet spot between power, performance, everyday reliability and cost. For more power, you really need to lay some stronger foundations in the shape of a fully-forged bottom end. It’s a wise idea given the fact the 2.0 has been known to suffer piston failure even at stock power. The jury is still out on exactly what causes the problem (weak components, LSPI, poor fuel, poor maintenance etc) but a set of forged pistons and uprated con-rods seems to sort the problem out.

These upgrades allow for higher boost levels and power output without the risk of engine failure. Forged engine internals are especially crucial for big power applications, where the engine is subjected to extreme levels of stress.

While the engine is stripped, it provides the perfect opportunity to install some performance camshafts too. The 2.0 EcoBoost cam profiles are quite mild, so fitting some performance cams is a great way to unlock more performance.

Turbo upgrades

With a bulletproof bottom end you can turn the wick up with a bigger turbo! By replacing the stock turbo with a bigger, high-performance turbo, you can achieve significantly higher power levels. Here are a few key points to consider when upgrading your turbo:

• Upgraded turbos provide boost levels, resulting in great power output.
• Bigger turbos offer improved flow capacity, allowing for higher power gains.
• Compatibility with other performance modifications, such as intercoolers and intake systems, should be considered.
• It’s important to ensure that the turbo upgrade is properly matched to your engine other components.

Fuel System

Like all Ford EcoBoost engines, the ST’s 2.0-liter version uses direct fuel injection technology. While there is certainly some scope to increase performance built into the OEM components, the stock fuel system starts to run out of juice at about 350bhp. Bigger injectors, however, are available and will see 400bhp. An uprated mechanical fuel pump may also be needed for further power gains. Alternatively, some tuners have added a secondary, supplementary port-injection fuel system to supply enough fuel for over 500bhp.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Transmission Modifications

While engine tuning is essential for achieving higher power output, don’t overlook the importance of transmission modifications. That’s why this Focus ST Mk3 tuning guide looks at how upgrading components such as short shifter kits, and heavy-duty clutches, and adding a limited-slip differential can greatly improve the overall driving experience

Clutch & Flywheel Upgrades

The stock clutch can cope with power outputs up to 300bhp. Heavy-duty upgrade kits are available, but using the clutch and dual-mass flywheel from the Mk3 Focus RS offers an OEM-quality upgrade that can easily handle most things an ST can throw at it. For hardcore drag and track users, race upgrades from specialists such as Xtreme Clutch are available if you really need them.

Short Shifter Kits

Short shifter kits are a popular modification for improving the shifting performance of the Focus ST. These kits decrease the distance and effort required to shift gears, resulting in quicker and more precise shifts. They also enhance the overall feel of the transmission, making gear changes more responsive and engaging. Whether you’re a performance enthusiast or simply seeking an improved driving experience, a short shifter kit is definitely worth considering.

Limited Slip Differentials

Limited slip differentials (LSDs) are a must-have upgrade for any serious performance enthusiast. By distributing power evenly between the front wheels, LSDs improve traction and reduce wheel spin during aggressive acceleration and cornering. This not only enhances the overall handling and stability of the Focus ST but also allows you to fully exploit its increased power output. Whether you plan on hitting the track or simply want to enjoy spirited drives on winding roads, upgrading to a limited-slip differential will undoubtedly take your driving experience to the next level. The most common upgrades include ATB types (Automatic Torque Biasing) from Quaife or Wavetrac.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Suspension Tuning

To complement the increased power output, it’s crucial to upgrade your Mk3 Focus ST’s suspension components. Suspension tuning plays a vital role in improving handling performance and overall driving dynamics. By upgrading components such as lowering springs, coilovers, and performance bushes, and optimizing the suspension alignment settings, you can significantly improve the handling of your Mk3 Focus ST.

Lowering Springs

Lowering springs are a popular choice for enthusiasts looking to improve both the performance and appearance of their Mk3 Focus ST. By lowering the car’s ride height, uprated lowering springs provide a lower center of gravity, resulting in improved handling and reduced body roll during cornering. They also offer a more aggressive stance and enhance the car’s overall aesthetics.

Coilovers: Should I fit them to my Focus ST?

Coilovers offer a higher level of adjustability compared to lowering springs, making them an excellent choice for those seeking a more customizable suspension setup. By combining a shock absorber and a coil spring into a single unit, coilovers allow for fine-tuning of the car’s ride height, damping, and rebound settings.

This level of adjustability enables you to optimize the suspension setup for different driving conditions, whether you’re on a spirited backroad drive or exploring the limits of your Mk3 Focus ST on the track. Additionally, coilovers provide improved handling, responsiveness, and a sportier feel compared to stock suspension. However, their race-inspired nature can make for a firm ride on the street. So, be prepared to compromise on ride quality for the benefit of adjustability. For purely street use, a set of matched springs and dampers like the Bilstein B12 kit is hard to beat.

Performance Bushes

Upgrading to performance bushes is another way to enhance the handling characteristics of your Mk3 Focus ST, which is why we’ve included them in our Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide. These bushes are designed to reduce chassis flex and provide improved responsiveness and steering precision. By reducing unwanted movement of suspension components, performance bushes help maintain proper suspension geometry, improving stability during high-speed manoeuvres. They also help minimize body roll, providing a more controlled and confident driving experience. Upgrading to performance bushes is a cost-effective way to upgrade your car’s handling performance without making major changes to the suspension system.

Alignment Settings

Proper alignment settings are essential for maintaining stability, predictable handling, and maximizing the performance of your Mk3 Focus ST. Alignment refers to the adjustment of various angles of the suspension components, such as camber, caster, and toe. Optimizing these settings can improve steering response, overall grip levels, and cornering performance. Correct alignment ensures even tire wear, reduces unwanted tire scrub, and provides optimal handling characteristics for spirited driving.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Brake Upgrades

Enhancing your Mk3 Focus ST’s braking performance is essential, especially when you’re pushing the car to its limits. Upgrading the stock brake system with high-performance components can improve stopping power, resistance to brake fade, and overall braking performance. Whether it’s upgrading brake pads, installing high-quality brake rotors, or considering big brake upgrade kits, optimizing your ST’s braking system will provide the confidence and control needed to handle higher power levels and enthusiastic street or occasional track driving.

Choosing the Right Brake Pads

Choosing the right brake pads is crucial when upgrading your Mk3 Focus ST’s braking performance. With the wide variety of brake pad compounds available, selecting the best one for your needs can make a noticeable difference in braking performance. For road use, it’s essential to choose brake pads that meet any local regulations, such as RC90 regulations for use on UK roads. Working hand in hand with other brake components, such as performance discs and brake lines, high-quality brake pads offer improved stopping power, fade resistance, and consistent performance.

Understanding the Importance of High-Quality Brake Rotors

High-quality brake rotors are essential components of an upgraded brake system and work in conjunction with performance brake pads to provide reliable and consistent stopping power. Upgraded brake discs offer several advantages over stock discs, including better cooling, improved performance, and reduced brake fade under demanding driving conditions. Whether you opt for drilled or slotted rotors, or even a combination of both, upgrading your brake rotors can significantly enhance your Mk3 Focus ST’s braking performance.

Big Brake Upgrade Kits

For those seeking the ultimate braking performance, big brake upgrades are a worthy consideration. An OEM upgrade is to use the 350mm discs and Brembo callipers from the Mk3 Ford Focus RS. These are a direct swap for the ST parts. Here are some key features of big brake upgrades:

• Larger discs and more powerful calipers allow for increased stopping power and heat dissipation.
• Upgraded brake pads provide improved performance and fade resistance under extreme conditions.
• The complete system is designed to work together, ensuring optimal performance and safety.
• While big brake upgrades can be more expensive compared to other brake upgrades, they are commonly found on serious performance cars and offer unmatched performance and reliability.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Wheel and Tire Modifications

Wheel and tire upgrades not only enhance the aesthetics of your Mk3 Focus ST but also play a crucial role in performance and handling. Choosing the right wheel and tire setup can greatly improve grip, responsiveness, and overall driving dynamics. Whether it’s selecting the right tires for performance driving or considering alloy wheel upgrades, these modifications will ensure that your car looks great and performs at its best on both the street and the track.

Selecting the Right Tires for Performance Driving

Selecting the right tires for your Mk3 Focus ST is essential to unleash its full performance potential. Equipping your Focus ST with high-performance tires ensures maximum grip, especially during spirited driving or on the track. Look for tires with a stickier compound and a tread pattern designed for aggressive driving. Fitting high-performance tires ensures maximum grip, especially during fast road driving or on the track.

Alloy Wheel Mods: What to Consider

The ST’s stock alloy wheels look good and are robust enough to withstand the vigors of daily driving. But that does come at a price, and that price is weight. Fitting lighter aftermarket alloy wheels reduces unsprung weight, improves responsiveness, and enhances the overall aesthetics of your Mk3 Focus ST. When considering alloy wheel upgrades, there are several factors to take into account, including:

• Rim size, width, and offset: 19in diameter by 8.5in wide with an offset around ET45 is widely considered a fantastic setup for the Mk3 Focus ST
• Weight savings: Lighter alloy wheels can reduce unsprung weight, improving suspension performance. Mountune’s OZ Racing Leggera HLT weighs in at just 9.9kg per wheel.
• Durability and finish: High-quality alloys offer improved strength, durability, and resistance to corrosion.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Interior Styling

Enhancing the interior of your Focus ST not only improves your driving experience but also adds a touch of personalization. Upgrading interior lighting, sound system components, floor mats, trim pieces, seats, and steering wheels are all great ways to enhance comfort, style, and functionality. Whether you’re looking for a more immersive audio experience, improved ergonomics, or a sportier feel, there are a number of interior styling options available to make your Mk3 Focus ST truly your own.

Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide: Exterior Styling

When it comes to styling, there are several ways to make your Mk3 Focus ST stand out from the crowd. Companies like Delta Styling, Maxton Designs, and SS Tuning all have a wide selection of styling upgrades to choose from. From adding splitters and spoilers to upgrading headlights, taillights, or fog lights. Or customizing with decals or bespoke wraps, the possibilities are endless. With the right exterior styling modifications, you can make a statement wherever you go.

Inspired? Now looking to buy a Ford Focus ST?

If our Focus ST Mk3 tuning guide has inspired you, make sure you check out our Buyer’s Guide. Here, you’ll find top tips on what to look for and how much to pay for the best example available.

The post Focus ST Mk3 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Ever since the OBD2 system was first designed, its primary goal from the perspective of manufacturers and law makers is emissions-based. Both for testing emissions and for fault finding issues that could adversely affect emissions, this was the main purpose for the system, and anything else manufacturers added was simply optional. But thankfully there’s a lot more potential around OBD2 scanners, and one of them is making your vehicle faster!

While the capability and potential will vary wildly between different makes and models, the OBD2 plug is the key to literally every ECU-connected component of your car, so if you have the right knowledge and equipment, all of those parts can be modified in ways most people would never expect.

Part of the reason this is possible is the simple fact that the OEMs use the OBD2 port to update things on the car when a known issue is found, sometimes important factory recall issues, and sometimes simply when the car comes in for a service and an update is available. And of course, if they can use it to modify the ECU programming, potentially anyone else can too. That’s where OBD2 ECU tuning comes in.

OBD2 ECU reflash

The quickest, cheapest, and most basic form of OBD2 ECU tuning is when you pay for someone to reflash your ECU. Sometimes this is done by a mobile service that can come to your home or work, sometimes it’s done at a premises, and sometimes even done on the dyno with before and after results. Regardless of where it is done though, the overall job is basically the same.

Using their specialist hardware and software specifically for this purpose, they can upload a differently programmed tune on to your cars ECU. Most commonly these are what people call “Stage 1” remaps, and are suitable for otherwise standard cars, but depending on the car and tuner there can be other tunes for certain popular upgrade routes.

Often these basically generic reflashes are sold as ‘custom’ remaps, but they are rarely truly custom as there is little need on a relatively standard car, and at most they are a slightly optimized version of the original “Stage 1” tune. This kind of ‘custom’ map is a very different thing to someone who truly has the ability to custom tune your ECU to suit a more highly modified engine with different injectors, larger turbo, and so on.

DIY flash programmer

If you’re unable to, or simply don’t want to travel to a suitable tuner, a great DIY option is the various plug-in OBD2 programmers such as the Cobb Accessport, Superchips Bluefin, Dreamscience, and many more. While exactly what’s possible depends on the unit and the car, these allow at very least for the owner of the car to upload the supplied modified ECU to their car themselves, and potentially can go far further than that.

These can be used to datalog the car on the road or dyno, and that log can be sent to a tuner anywhere in the world, who can custom modify your tune to suit your cars upgrades. Often this involves doing a log, uploading a modified tune made from that logs data, then doing another log, and so on until the desired result is achieved, much like how a lot of remapping businesses do their own ‘custom’ tunes, but while cutting out the middle man.

Custom OBD2 ECU tuning remap

While not needed for mild power levels, the ultimate form of ECU reprogramming is a full custom map done by an expert tuner. This is most commonly done on the dyno, but can be done on the road or even remotely. The two main things it needs is a factory ECU that’s capable of being fully custom tuned, and a tuner who knows exactly how to do it. Not all vehicles can have their factory ECU custom tuned. In fact, far more are incapable than capable, hence the need for an aftermarket ECU for most highly tuned engines. However, there are some notable exceptions.

Nissan GT-Rs, despite having “un-hackable” electronics when first released, can be highly tuned via the OBD2 port and the factory ECU; as do a lot of other popular performance engines. One of the most interesting is 01-05 Subaru Imprezas, which, thanks to many abilities being hidden away within the ECU for use in Group N rallying, has an incredibly capable ECU when used in conjunction with software such as CarBerryROM. The factory Subaru ECU has all kinds of wild rally functions hidden inside that even many aftermarket ECUs don’t have. These include rally anti-lag, launch control, rotational idle, multiple maps, and much more. It even allows you to use the factory interior switches that normally control things like the heated rear screen to instead switch the anti-lag on and off, to change maps, and so on.

A full custom remap is not a DIY job unless you’re skilled in this, and is indeed way beyond the capabilities of most tuners or even generic remap businesses. If you’ve got a highly modified car and know the right tuner, you may be able to meet your goals on a highly modified engine without changing to an aftermarket ECU.

OBD2 transmission remap

The engine isn’t the only thing that can get its performance increased via OBD2 port programming, certain transmissions can too. While it’s not a thing for a manual gearbox of course, as you’re fully in charge there, for some automatics, and especially dual clutch gearboxes such as the VW/Audi DSG, Porsche PDK, BMW DCT, Nissan GT-R, and so on, custom reprogramming for various upgrades can be done, potentially transforming how the car performs.

Different up and downshift rpms when in full auto mode, harder and faster shifting, improved launch control, higher torque limiters, and much more, can all be changed via a OBD2 remap of the transmission control unit. Perhaps most usefully, especially for the dual clutch setups, higher hydraulic pressure can be programmed in, which on some transmissions drastically increases the clutch clamping capacity, preventing slip even with large engine power and torque upgrades.

Just like the engine tuning, this can be done via generic reflashes, plug in modules, or as part of a full custom tune if required.

Non-performance OBD2 changes/upgrades

It’s not just performance modifications that can be done via OBD2 reprogramming, either. There is a whole host of cosmetic and comfort changes that be done on many cars in this way too. Modifying the function of interior and exterior lights, dashboard functions, adjusting the function of things like lane assist, your aircon, your audio system, in fact practically every function that is connected to the OBD2 system on your car can be adjusted IF you got the software and knowhow to do it.

As with the performance upgrades, what’s possible varies massively car to car, and just like them, you can either go to a specialist to get these changes done, or you can buy something such as Carly, which is partly a mobile-based diagnostics app and Bluetooth OBD2 module, but also allows you to unlock various changes and upgrades to your cars various electronic systems.

Relevant content: 

• OBD2 reader vs scanner
• OBD2 Explained
• OBD1 vs OBD2

The post OBD2 ECU Tuning Explained appeared first on Fast Car.

There’s a skill to designing and manufacturing an exhaust system. It all starts with looking at the vehicle it’s going to be fitted to. Space is the biggest limitation and often the deciding factor for the configuration of the exhaust system. So a four-branch manifold, for example, may not have the space in the engine bay to fit it. There’s often more room underneath the vehicle to be creative with the rest of the system. However, mufflers are often limited to where there’s room to tuck them out of the way. Ripping them off when travelling over a speed hump is the last thing you need.

There’s also a whole host of other factors you need to consider. Are you changing the exhaust for more power? Just to elevate the sound? To meet track day regulations? Maybe you want a design that no one else has or you want to join the Bosozuko crew. Whatever your goal is needs to be considered when building the exhaust. If you want the most amount of noise, you can forget silencers. For the vast majority of us who want a blend of noise and performance, you may start thinking about a sports catalytic convertor, or running one silencer rather than two. Before you consider a custom system, explore why you’re upgrading your exhaust before you make decisions.

Make a custom exhaust yourself

Can you really make your own exhaust system? Bolting together alternative pipes, mufflers and catalytic converters sounds tempting. Parts such as a sports cat, a packable muffler and a large-bore pipe could make a difference. However, that’s providing everything will fit together and can be secured with suitable hangers and mounts.

Inevitably, there will need to be some cutting, welding and modifying to make a custom exhaust system fit. Unless you are skilled at these jobs, it’s not something for the average DIYer.

Professional welders

Welding tubes together, along with fitting flanges and mounts, is only half the battle towards making an exhaust system. The angle and position of these parts when fitted needs to be considered. This can present numerous headaches, resulting in an exhaust system that bangs against the center tunnel or fouls the bulkhead. It perhaps highlights how a made-to-measure performance exhaust system carries a high price tag. Someone has spent days or weeks designing, making and testing these parts to ensure they fit.

Welding tubing together generates a couple of potential problems. Firstly, the welds need to be airtight to ensure exhaust gases don’t escape. And secondly, the heat from welding may distort the metal tubing. So it will need to be checked and may have to be bent to shape afterwards.

Car exhaust bending

A tube bender is often used to shape the pipework for an exhaust system. Otherwise, the tubes need to be cut and welded together to create the correct shape. From a DIY perspective, it is feasible to bend long sections of tubing. Bending them over large round objects, such as a wheel and tire, reduces the risk of kinking the pipework.

For shorter sections of tubing, this isn’t so easy. Applying heat can help, but increases the risk of burning yourself and anything that comes into contact with the pipework.

Car exhaust wrapping

Adding exhaust wrap tape around a manifold helps to keep heat out of the engine bay. This method of heat protection can help to reduce under-hood temperatures. It may be useful if you have an open-cone air filter inside the engine bay. Reducing the temperature of the air drawn into the engine means it has a greater density of oxygen. The more oxygen, the better the combustion for the engine.

Exhaust wrap tape can sometimes be fitted in situ around a manifold. However, it’s usually easier to remove the exhaust manifold to be able to wrap it. The ends of the tape are usually secured with heatproof clips.

Off-the-shelf exhaust parts

Universal exhaust components such as a sports catalytic converter or a custom muffler can sometimes be fitted. This is often a cheaper route to customizing an exhaust system. However, we can’t guarantee they are the right size and shape. So, if you are tempted to buy a sports cat or custom muffler, check the bore size at each end. If one or both ends are slotted, they will have to fit over whatever you intend to connect to them. So check the internal diameter. If they are not slotted, they will fit inside a connecting pipe, so check the external diameter.

On the job mods

Building a custom exhaust system in situ is one of the best means of ensuring everything can be fitted. However, it can require a high level of skill and tools. You’ll need a lift or inspection pit to work underneath the vehicle. If you intend to weld parts together in situ, make sure the fuel tank is empty and the battery disconnected.

Made to measure custom exhaust

Buying a custom exhaust system designed for your car is often the most expensive option. It’s less time-consuming because the design work has been done. So, it should fit, although exhaust systems are rarely that easy to assemble. You may want to ask your local workshop to help, especially if you don’t have a lift and they do.

Fitting custom exhaust tips

Whether you are fitting a sports cat or an entire custom system, there are a few tools to help. A rubber, wooden or plastic mallet helps to push pipes and components together. Spray silicone grease around joins to reduce friction when fitting parts together. Exhaust paste or a silicone-based sealant reduces the risk of air leaks. Apply this to joins.

Unless the original rubber exhaust hangers are reused or new ones supplied, have a variety of them to hand. This will help to ensure the exhaust system is securely fitted underneath the vehicle. You may wish to add mounting brackets and bobbins or fit different clamps. Remember the exhaust system needs to be move, so spring-loaded and rubber mounts are usually required.

Is a custom exhaust system better than stock?

If you are experienced enough to make your own custom exhaust system, you may discover all your efforts reduce performance. A more expensive made-to-measure system may have power charts to show the gains you should expect.

Remember that a stock exhaust system is designed to comply with noise and emissions regulations. But at the same time, a car manufacturer usually wants to optimize performance. So a custom system has its limitations, especially if you need to adhere to noise and emissions laws.

Relevant content: 

• Best custom exhaust designs
• How to fit a car exhaust

The post Custom Exhaust Guide: Can You Make Your Own Car Exhaust? appeared first on Fast Car.

If you own an S550 Mustang you might be wondering how to get more out of your engine. After all, the 3.7-liter Cyclone V6 is no slouch, producing 300 horsepower and 280 lb-ft of torque from the factory. But with some simple modifications, you can easily boost those numbers and make your Mustang more fun to drive.

We’ve got a complete guide to tuning the Mustang GT, but in this feature, we will show you some of the best tuning options for your Ford Mustang V6 S550. Whether you want a mild or wild setup, we’ve got you covered.

Intake and Exhaust Upgrades

One of the easiest and most effective ways to improve your Mustang’s performance is to upgrade the intake and exhaust systems. These parts help your engine breathe better, allowing more air and fuel to enter the combustion chambers and more exhaust gases to exit. The result is more power, better throttle response, and a more aggressive soundtrack.

There are several intake and exhaust options available for the S550 Mustang V6, but our picks would include:

Cold Air Intake

This replaces the stock airbox and filter with a performance filter and a high-flow intake pipe. Improving airflow by as much as 20%, this can add up to 15 horsepower and 18 lb-ft of torque. It also improves the engine sound and appearance under the hood.

73mm Throttle Body

Replacing the stock 65mm throttle body with a larger 73mm one allows more air to enter the engine. Larger diameter upgrades are made from CNC-machined aluminum and feature a new electronic motor, making installation a simple direct swap for the OE part. It can add up to 10 horsepower and 15 lb-ft of torque, especially when paired with an intake upgrade.

Cat-Back Exhaust

A cat-back exhaust system replaces the stock mufflers and pipes with a mandrel-bent stainless steel system that typically features dual tips and a straight-through design. It reduces backpressure and increases exhaust flow, adding up to 12 horsepower and 10 lb-ft of torque. It also gives your Mustang a deep and throaty sound that matches its performance.

Tuning Software

Another way to unleash your Mustang’s potential is to use tuning software that adjusts the engine parameters for optimal performance. Tuning software can change various aspects of your engine’s operation, such as ignition timing, fuel delivery, air/fuel ratio, rev limit, speed limit, and more. By fine-tuning these settings, you can gain more power, torque, responsiveness, and efficiency.

There are several tuning software options available for the S550 Mustang V6, but some of the most popular ones are:

SCT X4 Power Flash Tuner

This tuner plugs into your OBD-II port and allows you to upload custom tunes or pre-loaded tunes from SCT’s database. It also lets you monitor various engine parameters on its full-color LCD screen. It can add up to 20 horsepower and 25 lb-ft of torque, depending on the tune you choose.

DiabloSport inTune i3 Platinum Tuner

This tuner also plugs into your OBD-II port and allows you to upload custom tunes or pre-loaded tunes from DiabloSport’s database. It also lets you monitor various engine parameters on its full-color touchscreen. It can add up to 15 horsepower and 20 lb-ft of torque, depending on the tune you choose.

Bama X4/SF4 Power Flash Tuner

This tuner is similar to the SCT X4, but it comes with free custom tunes from Bama Performance for life. You can choose from various tunes for different purposes, such as street, race, or performance. It can add up to 18 horsepower and 23 lb-ft of torque, depending on the tune you choose.

Supercharger Kits

If you want to take your Mustang’s performance to the next level, you might want to consider installing a supercharger kit. A supercharger forces more air into the engine, increasing its power output significantly. Superchargers come in different types, such as centrifugal, roots, or twin-screw, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

There are not many supercharger kits available for the S550 Mustang V6, but one of the most reputable ones is the ProCharger High Output Intercooled Supercharger System. This system uses a centrifugal supercharger that mounts on the driver’s side of the engine and delivers up to 8psi of boost. It also includes an air-to-air intercooler, an uprated fuel pump, bigger injectors, and a handheld tuner with suitable software. It can increase your horsepower by up to 50% and your torque by up to 40%, giving you around 450 horsepower and 390 lb-ft of torque at the wheels.

Is it worth tuning the Ford Mustang V6 S550?

As you can see, there are many ways to tune your S550 Mustang V6 for more power and performance. Whether you want to start with some simple intake and exhaust upgrades or go all out with a supercharger kit, you can transform your V6 Mustang into a formidable machine that will turn heads and impress on the road or track. With the right mods in the right places, the V6 Mustang can be more than a match for its V8 bigger brother.

The post Ford Mustang V6 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Looking for more than just brake pads and rotors? If you’ve got a big budget and are looking for the biggest braking gains possible, then the answer is simple: get a big brake kit! However, that term is wonderfully vague, so you might be wondering what these kits actually contain…

What is a big brake kit?

Essentially, a big brake kit is a comprehensive package, usually comprised of every part that a car’s braking system needs. Let’s start with the rotors, or discs. Compared to regular ones, the rotors found in a big brake kit are – yep, you guessed it – larger, with a wider surface area. These bigger rotors provide a greater surface area for friction, and are much better at heat dissipation too if they’re drilled or grooved, meaning they’ll be able to cope with much more extreme braking scenarios.

Then, there’s the pads and calipers. The pads in a big brake kit will likely feature more compound material, a more aggressive compound material, or both in order to increase potential friction. If you’ve got bigger pads, you’ll need bigger calipers to put them in. Often, the calipers will be a monobloc design for better structural rigidity, therefore providing a more reliable contact patch between the pad and rotor. You’ll also notice that the amount of pistons a caliper has typically correlates with how big your rotors are. If you’ve got average-sized rotors you might have 4-piston calipers, ranging up to around 10 if you’re dealing with real heavy-duty stuff. Most companies will throw in the accompanying brake lines and fluid too.

Having spent years immersed in the modified car scene, I’m well placed to advise you on which brands are worthy of consideration. Here are some of the best big brake kits that money can buy.

Best Big Brake Kits

How we chose the products

While we haven’t been able to test every single brand mentioned here first-hand, these recommendations are based on Fast Car‘s experience and expertise. Every member of the Fast Car staff, myself included, is very familiar with automotive performance aftermarket. It’s what our brand is all about, after all! As a result, we understand which brands you should consider dealing with… and which you shouldn’t. Each of the brands and products mentioned in this article have earned their place on our shortlist through positive word of mouth amongst like-minded driving enthusiasts.

At a glance:

• Brembo
• Wilwood
• AP Racing
• EBC Brakes
• Tarox
• How to buy the best big brake kit

Brembo

Brembo is probably the most well-known braking system manufacturer on the planet, and for good reason. There isn’t a single competitor that can claim the sort of technical innovation and motorsport prestige that Brembo has achieved over the years.

To give you an idea, Brembo brakes have played a part in 26 Formula One driver’s championship titles. They’ve also had 30 constructor’s championship wins. And on top of that, numerous performance marques across the globe trust Brembo to provide the braking systems for their OEM models. So, if you’re after a quality performance upgrade, you’ll be in safe hands.

There’s a handful of big brake kits to choose from amongst the Brembo product range, but we’ve picked out two to mention here. The Gran Turismo BM package is the next step up from a simple pad and rotor upgrade. This adds the choice of either drilled or slotted rotors (that are higher quality than Brembo’s entry-level TY3s), 4, 6, or 8-piston calipers, high-performance pads, and metal-braided hoses. You’ll mostly feel the benefits of these on the track, but even at lower street speeds, braking performance will be more decisive.

Hardcore lap-time chasers might prefer the Gran Turismo R kit though. In Brembo’s words, this is “the most sophisticated high performance braking system ever manufactured for a car”. The highly-developed calipers are arguably the GT R kit’s highlight, though you also get two-piece rotors, accompanying pads, and stainless-steel Goodridge hoses.

Wilwood

Based in California, Wilwood is an American braking system manufacturer that’s been around since 1977. During that time, the company has amassed quite the reputation, not just in the US, but globally too. From competitive motorsport, to the world of industry and agriculture, Wilwood has developed high performance brakes for everything from go-karts to military Humvees.

In fact, their current product range is absolutely titanic. Right now, they offer more than 300 different brake calipers, 200 rotor designs and a whole host of upgraded supporting parts. Naturally, we can’t go through all of them here, but in general, here’s what you can expect from Wilwood upgrade kits:

The first thing to mention is that there tends to be two core branches of design when it comes to Wilwood big brakes kits. The first is the two-piece traditional ‘hat’ style upgrade which is designed to fit on top of the stock wheel hub. However, there is also the option to go for a design where the hub is further integrated into the upgrade. These are primarily designed for use in older vehicles like some classic American muscle cars which don’t feature ABS.

As far as calipers go, there’s a number of different options based on size and how much stopping strength you need. Entry-level options or options for more compact cars tend to come with four pistons, whereas the more high-end Wilwood kits have six. Speaking of high-end kits, you can even source carbon-ceramic rotors from Wilwood, but unless you’re running an extreme heavyweight or a serious track/race/time attack car, then those are likely to be a bit overkill.

Click here to discover the Wilwood big brake kit range in full. 

AP Racing

AP Racing has become one of the best braking system companies in the world, thanks to its ‘Race to Road’ approach to development. In short, all of AP’s core technology has been engineered to succeed on the race circuit, before trickling down into OEMs and the street performance aftermarket.

If you’re interested in a full big brake kit, AP supply upgrade packages for models from: Audi, BMW, Ford, Honda, Jaguar, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Peugeot, Subaru, Toyota, and Volkswagen.

These packages will include a set of slotted rotors, high performance pads and calipers, brake lines, and all the hardware you need to fit the parts to your car. Occasional track day use is well within these braking systems’ capabilities, though they’ve been geared towards improving less demanding street performance instead. So, if you want something that blends braking ability with everyday refinement, these AP kits would be a good shout.

To browse the range of AP Racing big brake kits, click here.

EBC Brakes

Despite the Brits’ recent self-inflicted trade difficulties, EBC Brakes are still a major supplier to the European aftermarket, and wouldn’t be considered out of place further abroad either. EBC’s most well-known products are its color-coordinated range of brake pads, however they do supply full big brake kits as well.

These are made from stainless steel (to ensure parts are long lasting and do not corrode), and aerospace-grade aluminum (for great strength and durability). One big difference that sets EBC’s Balanced Big Brake Kit range apart from others is that fact that it takes into consideration both axles. Whereas many brands simply focus on the front axle, EBC kits also feature rear brake pads and hoses for a more unified braking response at either end of the car.

Those pads are EBC’s famous YellowStuff variant which is considered one of the best brake pad compounds around for street builds that also want to feel capable on a track. On the (minor) downside, the kits come with two-piece calipers rather than monoblocs, and only four pistons (though six-piston variants are promised soon). That said, EBC claims that the bolting structure they use to connect the two pieces is actually *more* sturdy than a monobloc. The calipers rub the pads against a set of grooved two-piece floating rotors, which should be ample strong enough for 99% of braking scenarios.

Check out the EBC big brake kit range here.

Tarox

The lightweight big brake kits from Tarox are designed and created via the use of high-tech ECU plug-ins and pedal pressure sensors. The data gathered from a car’s stock capabilities is then used to formulate the perfect brake upgrade for it, designed not only to maximize performance, but also strike a balance with pedal feel and durability, too. The size of a caliper, for instance, and the number of pistons it contains is tailored to each individual car that Tarox caters for.

Like the EBC offerings, Tarox big brake kits come with bolted two-piece calipers rather than monoblocs, but unlike EBC kits you get a lot more choice when it comes to rotor design. The F2000 features long curved grooves, whereas the Sport Japan is drilled and grooved. The C83 has short straight grooves, while the D95 is drilled only. Finally, the ZERO has a plain surface, like you see on most OEM set-ups.

In fact, to prove to you how much we rate Tarox, we used one of their BBK kits on our very own FN2 Civic project car. Watch the video above to see Midge install it. Or, if you want to check out the Tarox range in greater depth, click here.

How to buy the best big brake kit

A lot of this decision comes down to the rotors and pads. When it comes to choosing the best brake rotors for your car, there are two main factors to look out for; maximum stopping force, and ability to dissipate heat.

Rotors

A larger rotor diameter means two things – more surface area for the pad compound to bite (thus causing more stopping friction), and more surface area for heat to dissipate. So, put simply, bigger rotors perform better than smaller ones. Holes and slots, meanwhile, are a valuable upgrade if you’re keen on spirited driving as they allow room for gas and dust to pass along. As such, it keeps your brakes cool, and tidies up the rotor surface of debris to ensure that the pads always have the desired level of bite. We’d suggest learning more about the nuances of slotted rotors vs. drilled rotors before deciding on a set for your car.

Oh, and if you’ve got money burning a hole in your pocket, ceramic brake rotors are well worth the investment. This high-end compound is significantly lighter than the regular iron designs that many brands use, and they tend to last longer too.

Pads, Calipers & Lines

As for pads, again it depends on what your intentions are. If you want an upgrade for your daily driver, you should aim for a pad which gives you a nice balance; improved friction, but without causing too much noise or brake dust. On the other hand, if you’re buying pads for a car which you’re only going to use on track, then you only need to worry about friction performance and resistance to fade. Good pads need good calipers too. Larger calipers with a greater number of pistons are able to deploy a greater amount of force onto the pad, which in turn aids pad performance against the rotor.

Fluid and brake lines shouldn’t make or break a purchase decision as they’re simple enough to replace or upgrade, but in an ideal world you want steel-braided lines and DOT 4 (or DOT 5+ in extreme track applications) brake fluid.

The post Best Big Brake Kits for 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

If you’ve ever tuned a car before, chances are you’ll know what a limited slip differential is. Although a vital part of any car, differentials have been around for over 4000 years, and are actually an ancient Chinese invention. The use of a diff is to allow power to transfer from the input: the engine or propshaft, to the outputs: the driveshafts to the wheels, while also allowing the outputs to move independently of each other.

If both wheels always turned at the same speed the inside wheel would drag, or conversely the outside wheel would spin, during cornering, which affects the handling and comfort. The disadvantage of a conventional diff is that because the outputs have the ability to move independently of each other, the power tends to transfer to the path of least resistance.

This means it is easy to spin one wheel under acceleration, ruining a cars acceleration and cornering ability. This is where a limited slip differential come in to play.

What is a limited slip differential and why do I want one?

As mentioned previously, the weak point of a normal open differential is that it’s possible to spin one wheel. And if one wheel loses traction on an conventional open diff all the power heads to that output, meaning one wheel spins like mad while the other wheel has almost no power transferred to it at all.

This understandably is the last thing you want when accelerating in a straight line or around a corner. Predictably considering the name, a limited slip diff, or LSD, limits the amount of slip between the two outputs at certain times, meaning there is always at least some drive to both wheels. Having drive to both wheels increases traction, which in turn improves acceleration and handling.

The difference an LSD can make is huge, especially on a car with a tuned engine. It can be the difference between spinning the wheels in the first three gears and having full traction in all gears. And on the road, circuit, or drag strip, an LSD really can transform the car.

What different types of limited slip differential are there?

Open differential

An open diff is fitted to most standard cars, particularly nonperformance models. And while it makes for a comfortable and easy drive, when one wheel loses traction, the other does so too, losing all traction. This is a serious problem when maximum performance is what you want. This problem magnifies by increased power levels, and open diffs are the main reason the myth of FWD cars being useless with anything over 250bhp exists. To be honest, without an LSD, any big power car can struggle for traction.

Torson limited slip differential

This type of diff has recently become very well known in the tuning world thanks to Quaife’s ATB (Automatic Torque Biasing) diff, as fitted to the Focus RS Mk3 and many tuned performance cars. Although it is best known in these cars, Torsen diffs featured on a number of cars, including most sporting RWD Toyotas from the ’90s to present day, the Honda S2000 and Civic Type R, the S15 Silvia, most ‘90s Rover Turbos, and many more.

This setup is a complex arrangement of gears that works almost backwards to an open diff; a Torsen diff applies power to the output with the most grip rather than the least. Applying the power to the output with the most grip, combined with the strength and general road-friendly nature of the Torsen diff makes it seem the perfect diff, but there is a downside; both wheels need to be on the ground at all times for it to work.

On the road, this will rarely be an issue. As a result, this diff type is a popular choice for a fast road car. However, when driving to the limits on track, this can be a problem. The way Torsen ATB diffs work also makes them very poor for drifting, but for a fast road car, they are the best by far.

Locked/welded/spool differentials

Although basic and not too road friendly, a car with a locked or welded diff, or with a spool fitted, has numerous performance uses. Drifters and drag racers on a budget often use welded diff, as it basically removes the differential function and forces both outputs to turn at the same speed at all times by welding the diff gears together. This is good for traction and control, but overall handling can suffer, increasing understeer in normal driving and on RWD cars it also can increase oversteer when driving past the limits of traction.

The other disadvantage to forcing both outputs to constantly move at the same speed is the wheels shuffle and shudder when tuning corners at very low speeds. Most people consider a welded diff to be a poor handling option, but many race cars use something which has the same function, a spool. A spool replaces the diff internals entirely with a single solid unit that gives equal drive to both wheels at all times.

Although in theory this is a less than ideal situation, many top level competition cars have run spools over the years, including hugely successful cars from the likes of Cosworth, Porsche, Subaru, and many more.

Viscous limited slip differential

The majority of production vehicle LSDs are viscous units, and these control the slip via a viscous fluid in a sealed housing which makes it harder for one wheel to slip in a similar manor to walking through thick mud or quicksand. The outputs can move independently of each other, but not as easily as if in open air, and the faster you try to move through it, the harder it is to do so, or in this application, the less slip it allows.

The main disadvantages of viscous units are the majority of standard units allow a lot of slip, which may be good for a daily driver, but have less performance benefits in comparison to aftermarket diffs. The main problem, especially with an older car, is viscous units reduce in effectiveness with age and heat; many older cars’ viscous diffs are worn to a stage where they are barely more effective than an open diff. Although it is possible to make a performance version of a viscous diff, it is not ideal, and therefore much rarer.

Plated limited slip differential

This is the LSD of choice for all motorsport applications, as well as drift, drag, and trackday fans, but performance units are generally less user-friendly than Torsen units on the road. As with the other types of LSD, how much and how quickly they lock is adjustable to suit the application, and some cars, BMWs in particular, come with plated LSDs as standard, albeit set to lock far less than an aftermarket plated LSD.

Plated LSDs work due to various friction plates limiting slip, much the same way a clutch works, and just like performance clutches, a heavily uprated plated LSD can be quite harsh in its operation, locking quickly and making the car juddery when driving slowly; as well as making the car more of a handful when accelerating hard due to its ability to immediately transmit the power with no slip. Just like a clutch, plated diffs can wear over time with hard use and big power, but most popular models can easily be rebuilt, and plated diffs remain the LSD of choice for seriously hard driven cars.

What is a center differential?

Depending on whether your car is two or four-wheel drive dictates how many diffs you have. Two-wheel drive cars have one at the front or back depending on which are the driven wheels. Four-wheel drives have a diff each for the front and rear wheels, plus a center diff. The front and rear diffs work as explained earlier in the feature, but the center diff has a different job; to distribute the torque between the front and rear wheels.

Centre diffs are set to give a certain torque split front to rear, generally around 35-65 front to rear, which generally gives a car a good grip and balance without too much under or oversteer, but this does vary from car to car. Many modern four-wheel drive vehicles have adjustable center diffs that are generally automatically ECU adjustable, and sometimes driver adjustable too. Adjustable center diffs can usually change the torque split anywhere between 50/50 and 100% RWD, depending on what the ECU or the driver decides.

What is a 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way limited slip differential?

Most of you will have heard phrases such as, “1-way, 1.5-way, and 2-way” mentioned when people talk about diffs, and this is a basic explanation of how the limited slip diff is set to operate and therefore how the car will drive. A 1-way diff is set to lock on acceleration only; therefore both wheels are always driven when accelerating, but when decelerating the diff behaves like an open diff.

A 1.5-way diff locks on acceleration and also partially on deceleration, and is generally the most effective for track use and a good all-rounder. A 2-way diff locks both on acceleration and deceleration. While favored for drifting and often used in drag racing, some people find it too unforgiving for them in fast road and track use, inducing under and oversteer too easily.

Sometimes you hear people talk about a 3-way diff, this is just another word for a locked/welded/ spool diff, as mentioned earlier in the feature.

Altering diff ratios

Just like changing your gearbox ratios or tire size, changing the rear diff ratio can drastically affect your acceleration and top speed. Although for some cars, aftermarket alternate diff ratios are available, the most common way of doing this is by swapping it for a different one off another model in the range.

Automatic transmission or lesser power models are the most common place to find alternate ratio diffs for your car, and many large manufacturers, Nissan for example, have used the same style of diff for many years on countless cars, making the choice of ratios almost endless; providing you can find the one you want.

How do aftermarket limited slip differentials differ to OEM ones?

The majority of road cars feature standard ‘open’ differentials. As mentioned earlier, these effectively allow the two driven wheels to rotate at different speeds.

Aftermarket LSDs are generally more complex and expensive to manufacture; however, are far more effective at distributing power and increasing traction and road holding. OEMs themselves regularly approach LSD manufacturers such as Quaife for their high-performance model lines.

Why, or when, would you need to upgrade your limited slip differential?

We would recommend upgrading to an LSD for anyone keen on fast road driving or racing on a circuit. If you regularly experience a lack of traction, torque steer, understeer or oversteer, the fitment of an LSD will work to eliminate such unwanted characteristics.

What other mods should you consider when uprating your LSD?

We would recommend that a vehicle’s suspension geometry and tracking checked to make sure everything is straight and true. It’s also recommended to check tires to make sure there’s plenty of tread, the pressures are correct and there isn’t too much of an inconsistency between one driven wheel and the other. An LSD will likely highlight anything that’s not right.

Are there any downsides to uprated LSDs?

A quality LSD that is correctly fitted is unlikely to bring any real downside. As mentioned, make sure you are getting the right type of LSD to suit your vehicle’s intended use.

What causes differentials to fail or not be suitable for the task?

Factory open differentials can fail for a number of reasons. Increasing a car’s power or natural grip by changing tire compound, tire width or suspension geometry are just some factors that can lead to such a failure. A lot of people chase horsepower; however, cars can become undriveable as a vehicle’s standard setup cannot cope with such high-power loadings. Plate differentials can fail in a similar way to standard open differentials due to their design. The ATB is inherently strong due to the design and the number of mating surfaces – companies like Quaife are so confident with the design of their ATB that they offer a lifetime warranty, even for motorsport use.

The post Limited Slip Differential Guide: LSDs Explained appeared first on Fast Car.

What are slotted and drilled rotors?

Before we start, let’s first examine what your stock brakes look like. In most cases, OEM brakes tend to use a smooth rotor with multiple cooling vanes in between two smooth surfaces. A set of plain rotors are the cheapest and easiest to manufacture, provides the most user-friendly pedal feel, and offers the lowest levels of noise and vibration. They are, as you’d expect, the perfect solution for a regular street car.

But we don’t drive regular street cars. We don’t mind sacrificing the odd squeak in return for improved hard braking. And the good news is, significant braking gains can be found by swapping to a performance brake rotor and suitable brake pads, without the expense and hassle of replacing the factory brake calipers. Upgrading your rotors and pads is no more difficult than regular replacement of stock parts!

There are several options for upgrades, but the two main types of performance brake rotors available are slotted or drilled. Slotted rotors have grooves machined into the surface that dissipate heat and gases, while drilled rotors have holes that pass through the friction surface and into the cooling vanes in the middle of the rotor for the same purpose. Both improve braking performance and reduce brake fade. The choice between them depends on personal preference and your car’s specific needs and uses.

Understanding Slotted Rotors

Slotted rotors, designed with surface channels or slots, offer numerous benefits for braking performance. These slots promote consistent and reliable braking by allowing heat and gases to dissipate, thus preventing brake fade. Furthermore, slotted rotors excel in wet conditions due to their ability to remove water and debris from brake pads. It is crucial to note, however, that these rotors can produce noise and result in accelerated wear on brake pads due to increased friction. Despite these downsides, slotted rotors remain a popular choice for high-performance and race cars.

Understanding Drilled Rotors

Drilled discs (also called cross-drilled rotors), in contrast to slotted rotors, incorporate drill holes on the rotor surface. This design promotes heat dissipation and minimizes brake fade. By allowing better airflow, drilled rotors effectively cool down after intense braking, meaning the braking system is less likely to overheat and suffer brake fade. However, traditionally, drilled rotors have a higher likelihood of cracking when subjected to rigorous conditions. Therefore they tend to be preferred for street and road cars over race cars where extreme braking conditions occur.

Slotted Rotors: High Performance Braking for the Track

For track enthusiasts and performance-driven drivers, slotted rotors offer high-performance braking with precise control. These specialized rotors, featuring slots that aid in heat dissipation and debris clearance, are the ideal choice for drivers seeking ultimate braking performance on the track or during aggressive street driving.

With their superior responsiveness and improved brake feel, slotted rotors deliver enhanced stopping power and reliable performance. However, it’s important to consider the potential downsides, including increased noise and accelerated pad wear. By choosing slotted rotors, you’re opting for optimal braking power without compromising on control or performance.

What are the benefits of slotted rotors?

Slotted rotors offer numerous benefits for braking performance. These specialized rotors feature shallow channels or slots that enhance heat dissipation and combat brake fade. The sharp edges of these slots help provide better initial brake bite and improved stopping power, they also effectively remove water, dust, and debris from the braking surface and effectively clean the brake pad for optimal performance.

Slotted rotors are great in wet conditions too, by maintaining contact between brake pads and rotors. However, it is important to note that they may cause more noise and accelerated brake pad wear compared to other rotor types. When deciding between slotted and drilled rotors, carefully consider your vehicle’s specific braking needs.

What are the drawbacks of slotted rotors?

Slotted discs, despite their various advantages in terms of braking performance, are not without their downsides. One significant drawback is that the slots in the rotor can create stress points, which can lead to cracking or warping over time, compromising the overall effectiveness of the rotor.

Also, slotted rotors tend to be noisier than their drilled counterparts and may induce slight vibrations or pulsations during braking. These factors can have an impact on the overall driving experience and may not be suitable for everyone. When considering the use of slotted rotors, you need to consider any potential drawbacks carefully.

Drilled Rotors: Braking Upgrades for the Street

Drilled rotors provide notable braking upgrades for street use. These braking enhancements are achieved through improved heat dissipation and effective venting of gases and debris thanks to the holes on the disc surface. As a result, the risk of brake fade is reduced, and overall braking performance is improved. Furthermore, the extended lifespan of the brake pads can be attributed to better ventilation. But, drilled discs are not always the best aftermarket performance rotors for track use due to their susceptibility to cracking under extreme stress or heavy braking.

What are the advantages of drilled rotors for braking performance?

Drilled rotors provide numerous advantages for braking performance. With their cross-drilled holes, these rotors excel in dissipating heat efficiently, ensuring your brakes remain fade-free even during intense driving. The holes also prevent the buildup of gases and debris, maintaining a clean braking surface for optimal contact with the brake pad. This enhances overall braking performance, especially in wet conditions. Additionally, drilled rotors offer an attractive upgrade, adding a sporty and stylish element to your vehicle. So, when it comes to enhancing friction and ensuring smooth braking, drilled rotors are a better choice.

Are there any disadvantages to drilled rotors?

Drilled rotors, although visually appealing and offering better initial bite in wet conditions, come with significant downsides for braking performance. One major drawback revolves around the structural integrity of the rotor itself. The drilling process weakens the rotor by creating holes, increasing the likelihood of cracks or warping when subjected to heavy braking. Modern drilled discs use high quality materials (typically cast iron) and these ventilation holes can be cast in the rotor at production rather than drilled into the surface later, which minimises the likelihood of stress fractures forming at these points. However, whether drilled or cast-in, the holes can create an environment for water or debris accumulation, diminishing the braking effectiveness, particularly in unfavorable conditions.

So, which is better: slotted vs drilled rotors?

There’s no right or wrong answer. Both slotted and drilled rotors offer unique benefits and drawbacks for braking performance, and both are a huge step up from most stock braking systems. Slotted rotors are ideal for high-performance braking on the track, providing enhanced cooling and improved bite. On the other hand, drilled rotors are great for street driving, offering better heat dissipation and reduced brake fade. Ultimately, the type of disc you choose will depend on your specific driving needs and preferences. To learn more about choosing the right upgrades for your car, check out our other features and guides.

The post Slotted vs Drilled Rotors: Which Brakes Perform Better? appeared first on Fast Car.

Once you’ve understood how suspension works, be sure to check out our guide to the best car suspension brands in 2023.

What are suspension springs?

In a very basic view of the suspension system, the springs support the weight of your car. They control the ride height and its vertical motion over bumps. They do this by storing the energy used to compress them by bumps in the road and then releasing it back into the car in a controlled manner thanks to the dampers.

What is suspension spring rate?

The spring rate, usually referred to in lbs/in (though you’ll also see kg/mm), dictates how much a spring will compress depending on the load applied. For example, a spring with a linear rate of 250lbs/in simply compresses one inch for every 250lbs load applied to it. So a load of 125lbs will compress it 1/2” and a 500lbs load will compress it 2”. A spring with a progressive rate gradually gets stiffer as the load increases. A 150/500lbs/in spring will compress 1” with a 150lbs load on it, but may need 250lbs to compress the next inch and then 400lbs for the third inch until it reaches 500lbs load to move another inch. Looking at it the opposite way, as the load increases, let’s say 150lb at a time, the spring compresses less and less until 150lb may only compress it a further 1/4”.

The wire diameter, material and number of coils determine the spring rate of any spring. The larger the diameter of the wire the higher the spring rate. However, the more coils the spring has the lower the spring rate. Progressive springs rates are possible on a single coil spring by tapering the wire so that the thinner wire has a lower spring rate than the larger diameter wire. Most high-performance cars use the system of ‘stacking’ coils of differing rates on a coilover shock absorber. This allows both progressive and digressive suspension set-ups.

What are progressive springs?

Altering the coil diameter as opposed to the wire diameter creates progressive springs. These are used for ease of manufacture and cost. On coilovers, however, stacking two or more springs on top of each other create progressive rates. A progressive spring rate starts soft and then ‘progressively’ gets harder. As the suspension starts to travel, the spring rate is soft and comfortable, soaking up small bumps and keeping the tires in contact with the road. As load increases, the spring rate also increases allowing for control in more spirited situations.

This brings us to the use of a stacked pair of springs for optimum performance using a lighter spring for soaking up smaller bumps, known as a ‘tender’ spring, fixed-rate or progressive. It is designed to fully compress into coil bind and then allow the main spring to deliver the final spring rate. There is also another type of spring used in a stacked spring setup called a ‘helper’ spring, which has a very low spring rate and is designed to retain the main spring onto the spring perches during full suspension travel only or when the suspension is ‘hanging’, having virtually no effect on the spring rate of the combination.

How do height-adjustable springs work?

If you’re happy with a fixed drop in ride height then lowering springs are great but if you want height adjustment you’d normally go down the coilover route. However, if you’ve got a car with electronically adjustable dampers, like those found on most modern performance BMWs, and you want to retain these for their functionality but also want to lower your car and have adjustable ride height then you need a height-adjustable spring (HAS) kit.

Now, obviously, you can’t adjust the height of the spring itself as such as a coil of metal does not have settings you can just select, so these kits actually use adjustable spring perches. These use the same sort of collar adjuster that you’d find on a coilover setup. It offers the same easy adjustment method and a wide range of adjustment, allowing you to obtain the perfect ride height on more of a budget.

What are dampers?

When your car hits a bump, energy from the wheels transmits to the suspension springs. These compress, storing the energy until the bump is passed. Then the spring returns it by extending back to its original installed length. As the spring does this, it will extend past its original position until the car returns the energy to the spring. This will set up an oscillation in the car and it will continue to bounce, uncontrolled, for a long while.

These uncontrolled bounces will significantly affect the handling of the car. So, there needs to be some way of controlling the spring, and this is the function of the damper. It resists the fast movement of the spring by absorbing the energy of the spring. This is usually through heat absorption, and dampers are there to stop the spring from bouncing uncontrolled.

How do dampers work?

A damper is a tube filled with hydraulic oil and with a piston rod inside it. At one end of the piston rod there is a piston valve with holes in it. These holes dictate how quickly the oil can pass through them and therefore how quickly the piston can move. By altering the size of the holes in the piston and by stacking discs on either side of the piston to generate a pressure drop, you can adjust the bump and rebound resistance to movement. The hydraulic oil needs to be temperature stable or the thinning of the oil due to increases in temperature during use will result in reduced damper efficiency. They must also have an anti-foaming additive because any aeration of the oil will have a drastic effect on the dampers’ effectiveness because the trapped air will be compressible.

Dampers can use a monotube or twin-tube design. A monotube damper contains a piston housed within a single tube and this type of damper has several positive features. First of all, you can mount the damper at almost any angle and because the tube containing the oil is in direct contact with the surrounding air it helps to cool the oil inside the damper more effectively, which means you can drive harder for longer without any drop-off in suspension performance. A twin-tube damper is effectively a tube inside a tube with a valve at the bottom. The inner tube functions similarly to the monotube damper with a piston and orifice valves, but the outer tube acts as a reservoir of oil.

What are coilovers?

If you’re looking to go low and improve handling, coilovers are what you need. Coilovers are just coil springs fitted over dampers. However, they offer more than a simple spring/damper combo with even the most basic coilovers coming with height adjustment. Most coilovers will offer some form of damping adjustment. As the price increases, so does the level of functionality offered by a setup. With most coilovers, the lower you go, the more you’re reducing spring travel by compressing it and the more you’re stiffening your ride.

Pretty much all coilovers will offer one-way damping adjustment. This usually combines compression and rebound behaviour into one adjuster. Increase your front damper rates and you’ll up understeer by increasing rear-end grip; increase rear rates and you’ll increase front-end grip, but reduce rear end grip.

Two-way adjustable dampers will let you independently control compression and rebound settings; compression (or bump) dictates how the damper will react to the initial encounter with a bump. Too firm and the ride will be harsh and could cause bouncing. Too little damping and the car might dive under braking and roll heavily through corners.

Rebound affects how quickly the damper returns to its normal height. A high rebound setting will cause the piston to move a lot more slowly and can even cause the car to leave the ground like on touring cars; too low, and you’ll get wallowy suspension. Four-way dampers can adjust for high- and low-speed compression and rebound independently.

Coilovers aren’t the cheapest suspension upgrade, but they do allow you to lower the car while while improving handling.

For a more in depth look at coilovers, check out our coilovers guide.

Passive, semi-active, active, adaptive suspension – what are they?

When it comes down to the job of controlling the vertical movement of the wheels, there are a few variations. These are active, passive, semi-active, and adaptive suspension. It sounds complicated, and while they certainly can be, understanding what they do isn’t too hard at all, so here goes…

What is passive suspension?

Passive suspension is what most cars come with from the factory. It’s also what almost all race cars use too; it’s the good old gas/oil fitted shock absorber and coil spring combo. Passive suspension is light, simple, and effective. Passive basically means it not adjustable or adaptable to changing situations without stopping and physically adjusting parts yourself.

What is semi-active/adaptive suspension?

Semi-active and adaptive are basically the same thing. They are certainly the most common type when it comes to production vehicles with trick suspension designs. While there’s a huge amount of variations, they all do the same basic thing, enable the shock absorber to stiffen or soften while on the move. Many cars with semi-active suspension allow manual in-car adjustment via switches. The main function of all designs is to help prevent body roll when cornering. It is also used to combat squat under acceleration, and dipping under cornering, without the need for stiff suspension.

Differentiating between ‘semi-active’ and ‘active’ is hard, as exactly what constitutes what depends who you listen to. Most people consider anything that offers in-car ride height adjustability to be ‘active’. This covers aftermarket air and hydraulic kits, not to mention things like the hydropneumatic system fitted to many large Citroens. However, some people consider ‘active’ suspension to be purely systems with fully automatic height adjustability. Which brings us neatly on to…

What is fully active suspension?

Exactly what is active is open to debate. One thing for sure is it means adjustable ride height. This can either be manually via in-car switches, or automatically via a series or sensors and clever ECU.

Height adjustable suspension is used for countless reasons. Think aftermarket hydraulic and air suspension kits we all know and love; self-levelling systems that use it to prevent the vehicle from being lower to the ground when carrying heavy loads; systems that facilitate ride height changes to allow the vehicle to traverse differing surfaces; or even on things such as buses and trailers to simply allow easier loading or unloading. Active kits can vary massively in speed and effectiveness. They can be adjusted with air, hydraulic fluid, and in some sophisticated systems even electromagnets. The result is the same; easy and super-quick height adjustability.

What is OEM active adjustable suspension?

While standard air suspension often bares little resemblance to the aftermarket, it’s been around for over 100 years!

It was the 1950s that really brought about the biggest changes in active suspension though.  Some production cars brought in automatic adjusting and self levelling regardless of load or driving surface; most of these kits were also in-car height adjustable. The most famous setup is the Citroen hydropneumatic system. This used a mix of hydraulics and compressed gas, and they still use this same basic design to this very day on some vehicles. Many manufacturers have used the system too, under licence. These include Rolls Royce, Maserati, and Mercedes. From the 50s there have been literally hundreds of vehicles some form of active air suspension.

In the ’90s there was a trend, especially on large Japanese sports cars such as the Toyota Supra and Soarer, to have semi-active systems fitted, though it’s been quickly forgotten about and many owners don’t ever realize. By now, most have been replaced with aftermarket passive suspension kits. Since 2000, active suspension technology has really taken off on production cars. Even many small hatchbacks have a ‘sport’ button to stiffen the suspension. Many vehicles use modern computer technology to adjust the suspension height and stiffness in a fraction of a second to suit any surface and driving style.

Guide from Performance BMW. Words: Gerry Speechley, Elizabeth de Latour   Photos: Eibach, ST Suspensions, KW, Ground Control, BC Racing.

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The sixth-generation Ford Mustang S550 has been with us for eight years, and like all Mustangs, it’s proving to be a tuning sensation with more and more quality upgrades appearing on the aftermarket. Yes, the lineup did include more frugal and more affordable engine configurations, but the one most car fans are interested in is the full-fat GT version. So, that’s the model we’ll focus on for this car tuning guide.

Unfiltered American Muscle

The GT follows the traditional Mustang format of being a big, brawny coupé with a rumbling V8. Only this time, the S550 also came in right-hand drive for the UK market, so British car fans could also enjoy the iconic Ford legend.

The 5.0-liter Coyote V8 found in the Mustang GT is a true gem. Packing over 400 horsepower as standard with rear-wheel drive, even a box-stock S550 is entertaining. But it has so much more to give if you tickle it in the right places. Power can be taken to crazy levels (even on stock internals); the chassis can be tuned to suit the road, track or drag strip (or a combination of all three); and there are so many styling parts available (from the aftermarket and limited edition/performance models), you can really customize a Mustang to you suit your tastes.

With used prices dropping as low as $25k (Mustang buyer’s guide) for an earlier pre-facelift version and brand new prices starting below $40k, that’s a whole lot of fun for not a lot of dollar. And it leaves plenty of cash in the kitty to spend on upgrades. Here’s our Ford Mustang S550 tuning guide.

Ford Mustang S550 Engine Tuning

Tuning the Mustang’s fabulous Coyote motor is surprisingly easy; double the factory power can be achieved without even needing to open it up. Yes, the Coyote V8 will do nearly 1000 horsepower still running the OEM internals.

The first thing to do is get the V8 breathing better. A performance filter helps, although for more notable gains you’ll want to replace the whole setup for a performance induction kit. It’ll also boost the noise, too.

There are several to choose from, but fitting an induction kit to a later 2018-on car will require a remap. Earlier cars will benefit from Steeda’s open cold-air induction system, which will work happily on a stock map to give increases of around 20 horsepower and 20lb.ft. of torque. But on later direct-injection cars, the stock air filter was better optimized, meaning that to find gains you need to increase the bore size of the intake. This in turn requires a remap to recalibrate the MAF sensor readings to suit.

Exhaust Tuning

With the intake sorted, attention then turns to the exhaust. An axle-back is a good starting point and gives the Mustang that V8 burble it deserves for the cheapest price. A cat-back builds on this and replaces everything after the factory catalytic converters. These are typically available with either an H-pipe or X-pipe linking the two banks together. An H-pipe gives a more traditional V8 burble and slightly better low-down performance. The X-pipe sounds raspier and offers more top-end power.

You also need to choose between a 2.5in diameter system like the Ford Performance item (said to be quieter and deliver a more OEM-like experience in the cabin) or a full 3in system, which is what most tuners recommend.

With twin pipes running front to back, Mustang exhausts don’t come cheap. The Ford Performance cat-back costs over $1500. However, systems from Magnaflow, Kooks, Milltek and Steeda are all available for less. Have a listen to this 800 horsepower supercharged Mustang.

Exhaust Manifold

The biggest gains are found by swapping the headers. Interestingly, the US-market cars made a little more power from the factory than UK cars (416 horsepower over 410 horsepower). This was due to the right-hand conversion resulting in a redesigned, slightly-more restrictive exhaust manifold, and therefore less top-end power.

Not that it matters, in the pursuit of performance you’ll be binning the stock stuff regardless of which side the steering wheel is! Again, there are several options but the long-tube headers from Kooks are widely regarded as some of the best on the market. These are available with 1-3/4in-diameter tubes (perfect for NA tuning) or larger 1-7/8in tubes (said to be ideal for big-power S550s running over 600 horsepower). Expect to pay around $1900-$2500 for a pair of smaller-diameter headers with high-flow sports cats. You can pay as much as $3000 for the larger headers with higher-quality 300-cell cats. Or, for race cars even larger 2.0in headers are available.

Remapping

To make the most of all that extra breathing, a software upgrade completes the holy trinity of air filter, exhaust and remap.

Choose a reputable tuner and you’ll see around 480-to-500 horsepower. You can nudge that closer to 500 horsepower with upgrades to the throttle body and intake manifold, but at this point, the cost-per-horsepower-gained becomes difficult to justify. Especially when you can literally bolt on another 200-to-300 horsepower in the shape of a supercharger.

Or you could just drop in a complete crate engine from Ford Performance. The top-dog V8 motor is the 5.2-liter Aluminator XS. Up to 580 horsepower at a screaming 7800rpm comes thanks to forged conrods, pistons and crank, CNC-ported GT350 cylinder heads, custom cams, and Cobra Jet intake and throttle. Yours for around $21,000.

Ford Mustang S550 Forced Induction Tuning

Supercharging

It’s easier, and cheaper, to get big numbers from the S550 Mustang by adding boost. Supercharger upgrades are by far the simplest solution, and complete kits are available that bolt straight on. Even controlling the ECU has been taken care of with most systems coming with recalibrated software solutions to suit.

There are two main supercharger configurations to choose from: twin-screw or centrifugal. In both cases, comprehensive bolt-on kits are available and include pipework, intercooler and ECU tunes. We’ve featured plenty of supercharged Mustangs for you to ogle over.

Centrifugal kits from the likes of Procharger and Vortech have a more ‘aftermarket’ approach, whereas most OEMs tend to go for the twin-screw design. And there are lots of twin-screw options out there from Roush, Edelbrock, Whipple and even Ford Performance.

The centrifugal kits tend to be a bit cheaper and not as aggressive lower down in the rev range. Twin-screw kits give more instant throttle response, offer a bit more tuneability and are usually a bit more expensive.

Both give truly epic gains: on a completely standard engine, 700 horsepower is easily achievable. With uprated oil pump gears and cam sprockets, you can up the boost alongside some bigger injectors and have 850 horsepower under your right foot. Kits typically start at around $8000.

Turbocharging

But supercharging isn’t the only way to boost your Mustang. Complete turbo kits are also available and include (almost) everything you need for installation. Many of these kits are designed for left-hand-drive cars though, so fitting to a UK car can take some work.

As turbos are driven by exhaust gases rather than a belt-driven supercharger, they can be better tuned to give a higher or lower boost at any given revs. On a standard Coyote engine, there’s nothing between the supercharger kits and turbo kits, in terms of price and indeed power. Have a nosey at the UK’s first turbocharged Mustang!

But turbochargers offer almost limitless power when you start taking the engine apart and fitting stronger internals. We’ve been told that 1500 horsepower isn’t all that difficult with a built engine, bigger turbos and some fueling upgrades, and MMR has already built a Coyote turbo thumping out a quite ridiculous 2138 horsepower!

Ford Mustang S550 Transmission Tuning

If you’ve bought an S550 with automatic transmission – especially the later ten-speed 2018-on model with the 10R80 transmission – then well done: sit back and relax; your work here is already done.

But many Mustang owners opted for the more involving manual transmission, and unfortunately, the Getrag MT-82 is not without its problems. The later MT-82-D4 (D4 for direct fourth) from 2018-onwards used a dual-mass flywheel, twin disc clutch, larger synchros, and different tooth geometry. It’s better but didn’t cure all the issues.

According to specialist CJ Pony Parts, some simple upgrades can help overcome the main issues. For starters, an uprated clutch kit can help with the high-speed lockout issue the MT-82 suffers from, while a short-throw shifter improves feel, and shifter support brackets add rigidity to prevent missing shifts. One caveat, though: the MT-82 can be finicky, so over-tightening bolts or a slight misalignment of things such as the reverse lock-out can cause issues. Installed correctly, though, they are fine.

Steeda warns against fitting stiffer diff bushes on a road car; the diffs can be noisy from the factory, and a stiffer bush can amplify this into the cabin. They are great for drag cars, though. And if you do spend time on the strip, invest in a set of hardcore diff bolts to prevent the stubby original bolts from shearing and your diff falling out.

Ford Mustang S550 Suspension Tuning

Add a few upgrades in the right places and the S550 will carve through corners as well as, if not better than, some of its more established German rivals.

The first thing to do is sort the alignment. The S550’s rear subframe has large bolt-holes to make assembly in the factory easier and faster, but this also means the subframe location isn’t very precise. Steeda says it can be as much as 12mm out, meaning the rear subframe isn’t actually in the center of the car.

That’s why one of the best upgrades you can make to any S550 – tuned or standard – is to fit a set of IRS (independent rear suspension) alignment bushes. These are basically sleeves for those larger bolt holes, which will centralize the subframe.

The alignment bushes are available separately but work best when combined with Steeda’s subframe bushing support system in the IRS base pack. These aluminum inserts work with the OE rubber bushes, so don’t increase NVH but do reduce the amount of movement in the stock bushes.

With that lot in place, a four-wheel alignment session will make sure all four wheels are pointing where they should. Steeda recommends the following for a fast road S550: front camber, -1.2deg; front caster, 7.5deg; front toe, 0.2deg; rear camber, 1.6deg; and rear toe, 0.2deg.

Lowering Springs or Coilovers?

Lowering springs will help get the car sitting closer to the ground and offer improvements to body roll too; there are several options available from different suppliers, including linear, progressive, and dual-rate types. Which you choose will depend on how you use the car; speak to your tuner to discuss in more detail.

For most owners, a good set of springs and dampers will be more than up to the job but if you like to take your Mustang on track a lot, or want almost endless adjustability, then a good set of coilovers will really allow you to fine-tune the damping and ride-height settings.

Instead, a street car will see money more wisely spent on upgrading suspension bushes, braces and arms. Polyurethane bushes will help reduce unwanted movement, but on the S550, the rubber bush itself is often not the cause for concern; it’s the bar, link, or arm the bush is fitted to that’s the issue. The standard rear vertical links, for example, are made from pressed steel and are susceptible to flexing under load. So too are the rear toe links.

Steeda, BMR and Hardrace all offer bolt-on upgrades that will eliminate the problem. As a bonus, they are adjustable too.

Anti-roll bars

It’s also worth looking at the anti-roll bars. There are options available from all the well-known names including Steeda, Ford Performance and Eibach, and they all work in a similar way – beef up the standard roll bar with a stronger, stiffer design to further resist any roll and improve longevity compared to the stock part, and most are adjustable too.

There’s almost as much scope in S550 chassis tuning as there is engine tuning, and you can build on these mods with more bracing and strengthening, more adjustment, and even a lightweight race-spec front crossmember, all available as bolt-on upgrades.

Ford Mustang Brakes

Most GT’s (including all British Mustang GTs) came with Ford’s Performance Pack 1 fitted. If not, this is the first step in upgrading the brakes, as the Performance Pack added whopping Brembo six-pot front calipers and 380x34mm discs, plus 330x25mm ventilated rear discs with floating calipers. They’re more than enough for most users, but some track-day and/or big-power owners have swapped discs for lighter two-piece items and fitted more aggressive pads. They will cope with most things you can throw at them.

But, if you want the ultimate, look to the Ford Performance catalogue, and specifically the Shelby GT350R brake upgrade. This kit includes Brembo six-pot front calipers with massive 15.5in (394mm) rotors, as well as Brembo four-pot rears with 14.9in (378mm) discs, parking brake assembly, street-spec pads, and everything to fit. They’re not badly priced at $4200 for the whole kit, either.

Ford Mustang S550 Wheels & Tire Upgrades

The key to improving performance here is weight; or removing as much of it as you can. The stock 19in alloys are heavy, and you can find significant performance gains by swapping to a lightweight option. The stock GT wheels weigh around 15kg (33lb) each, whereas Velgen’s flow-formed VF5 weighs just 11.3kg (25lb). No wonder it’s a popular upgrade. Of course, there are plenty of options available from specialists.

As for tires, stick to premium brands and high-performance ranges. There is no room for compromise with a big power ‘Stang.

Ford Mustang S550 Interior Upgrades

The Mustang GT came well-equipped as standard – unlike some of the lesser-spec models. It’s all about personal taste when it comes to interior dress-up; the stock seats are ideal for a comfy GT car, but for more spirited use on the street or track a pair of bucket seats offer more stability.

The car’s infotainment system is good, but there are better aftermarket options on the market now. Plus, while the standard car’s audio system suffices, those who love their audio as much as their V8s will want a little speaker upgrade to deliver more performance.

Elsewhere in the cabin it again boils down to personal taste. some opt for a simpler steering wheel with a little more thickness to the rim. Others swap out gear levers for purely aesthetic reasons, while others start removing unwanted plastics to help save weight.

Ford Mustang styling upgrades

You can get wide body kits and huge rear wings for the S550, but the already aggressive Mustang really doesn’t need much help in the getting-noticed department. Instead, subtle touches and the OEM-plus approach tend to get an appreciative nod from those in the know.

Shelby-tuned cars came with a selection of aesthetic upgrades, and plenty of OEM-style improvements are available, such as replacement boot lids, side scoops, and various grille upgrades. One of the best-looking styling extras in our book is the carbon-fiber GT350R-style rear spoiler – it’s not cheap, but it is beautiful.

Of course, for those who want to take it to the extreme, there are numerous wide-arch kits to choose from too – just factor in the labor costs to fit and paint the kit will add to overall expense.

Words: Jamie & Ben Birch. Photos: AS Design.

The post Ford Mustang S550 Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Right then, air ride for looks and practicality, coilovers for relatively cheap handling performance. That’s it, job done with your car suspension. What’s next?

Except of course, it isn’t. No, there’s a lot more than meets the eye when it comes these types of suspension systems and how you use them. But don’t worry because, as ever, we’re here to help you make an informed decision when choosing an epic chassis setup for your pride and joy.

So, let’s get busy weighing up the options with our guide to everything you need to know. It’s time to find out if you should go for coilovers or air ride.

Coil-overs vs coilovers

Technically speaking, a coil-over suspension setup is exactly what it says on the tin. The coil (which is the spirally springy bit holding your car up) has a damper passing through the middle. It’s a common abbreviation of the more technical term coil-over-damper. So, with that in mind, the standard suspension on the front of most cars is also classed as coil-over suspension. As are all the other aftermarket suspension kits that include coil springs and dampers configured in this way.

When we talk about coilovers in tuning circles though, it’s the same deal in terms of configuration. Coilovers will always be coil-overs. But we’re referring to suspension systems which add in the all-important element of ride height adjustability.

Regardless of this – or any additional levels of adjustability the dampers may offer – coilovers still work in the same way as your standard suspension. The length of spring, and where it’s mounted on the damper, dictates the ride height. The stiffness of the spring affects the ride quality and handling, and the damper is there to control how the spring bounces back to its normal state after being compressed. This is why dampers are also known as shock absorbers. Have a look at our beginners guide to suspension to see the science behind how it all works.

Rear OEM coil-over suspension

The other thing to consider of course, is that not all cars have a coil-over setup on the rear. While you’ll find a traditional coil-overs on the back end of many a Japanese car, most European motors have separate springs and dampers at the rear. Technically speaking, you can’t call it a coil-over setup if the spring and damper doesn’t form and all-in-one strut. Although in the aftermarket these are still classed as coilovers, or at least an important part of your coilover kit. Again, the rear springs are the bit that dictate the height of the car, so your coilover kit will not only contain new rear springs and dampers, but an adjustable spring platform to set up the height.

In the case of coilovers – as opposed to air ride – even though they’re adjustable for ride-height, and in many cases damping, usually you can’t make adjustments on the go – so coilovers are generally referred to as a passive, or static, suspension system.

Racing vs fast road

First of all, there’s a reason that the vast majority of race cars utilize coilovers for out-and-out handling performance. It’s mostly about reliability, the range of adjustability and the disregard for comfort. On a road car though? Well, that’s an entirely different animal, and here in the real world you’ll have to treat it as such when choosing your suspension. If of course, you value any sort of ride quality.

While there are plenty of hardcore racing coilovers out there, and some will cost you and arm and a leg… and possibly the other leg, too. Most of the aftermarket coilovers you’ll find start life as race systems but geared specifically towards fast road use. After all, there’s a lot more road cars than race cars out there, right? If the big suspension firms only sold coilovers for motorsport use, you wouldn’t have any big suspension firms.

Fast road simply means beefing up the handling enough for a decent improvement for performance driving without completely killing the comfort. It’s also about having the capability to adjust the settings for the occasional jaunt on the circuit. Like on a race car, the idea is to hold the optimum chassis settings through the corners, and when braking or accelerating. The only real difference between road and race setups is how far you can push the system before the chassis geometry moves away from optimum. The longer you hold those settings, the harsher the ride is going to be.

Performance vs compliance

On a nice flat circuit, suspension doesn’t have to absorb the sort of bumps you’ll find on the road. A super-stiff setup can hold the chassis geometry in place for as long as possible. In other words, race cars aren’t designed for comfort. Conversely, on the road you need a little compliance to allow the suspension to absorb the shocks and keep your car drivable. Soft wallowing suspension isn’t good for handling, but neither is suspension that’s too stiff.

The stiffness isn’t just down to the spring and damper itself, but also any bushes where they mount to the car. The stiffer they are, the stiffer your chassis will be, which is why you’ll find many race cars with solid, or rose jointed, bushes and top mounts. On coilovers designed for road cars though, generally these will have more complaint rubber or polyurethane bushes to help absorb larger shocks and stop all of them being transferred through the chassis and into the cabin. While a little stiffness is good for improving handling, it’s no good if it shakes your car to bits or makes driving it a nightmare. With coilovers it’s all about finding the right balance.

So, while fast road coilovers share many characteristics of the ones you’ll find in professional motorsport, they’re not the same thing. Generally speaking, race cars will have a drastically redesigned chassis that bears little resemblance to their road-going counterparts. These will include a whole load of special link arms and increased room under the arches to allow them to run as low as possible, all the while retaining the focused handling characterizes. Try lowering a car to the same degree for use on the road and it just doesn’t work.

Are coilovers better than air ride?

The real question should be – are coilovers better than air ride for me? And the answer to that depends on what you’re planning to do with the car, not to mention what you want to spend.

There are – excuse the pun – ups and downs for both types of system. And, even if you’ve picked a set that’s nice and compliant, making it relatively comfortable for day-to-day driving. Or chosen a super-stiff set because you’re building a car solely for track use. You can still fall at the final hurdle when you’re setting up the ride height.

Now, it is entirely possible to slam your car into the weeds on coilovers, and many see rolling uber static lows as a badge of honor. But, while this school of thought no doubt makes you a warrior, it doesn’t mean that the handling performance will be any good. And besides, no matter how low you wind them down, you’re never going to get the sort of lows associated with air ride, chiefly because your car needs to move.

A sensible drop in ride height, however, will always lower the center of gravity enough for a marked improvement in handling and a more purposeful stance. In many cases, you’ll be able to fit wider wheels for better grip, too.

Are coilovers cheaper than air ride?

Unless we’re talking about seriously high-end systems for race use, it’s no secret that coilovers are more affordable than air ride systems. Not so much because of the struts themselves, but because all the other parts in the system, not to mention the fitting, can really add up.

But, while there are plenty of coilover bargains out there, going too cheap can also lead to trouble. Yes, if you’re looking to spend a just few hundred quid, you can bag yourself a set of coilovers. But ask yourself – do you really want them? In many cases the cheapest units will either improve the handling for a short time… right up until they break. Or not improve the handling at all. All the big suspension brands put a serious amount of R&D into making sure their fast road coilovers work as they should, and last for at least as long as your standard suspension components. Cheaper offerings out there won’t offer that. Then again, if you just want to slam your car, and you’re not too concerned with handling or comfort, it is your car, not ours. Although we’d never recommend it.

The golden rule for handling performance is to do your research for your particular car, and look for a quality brand with a good reputation. Coilovers are a bit like tires in that respect – if you’ve not heard of the brand in question, chances are they’re not going to be great for long lasting performance. From experience we’d say prices for a good set of coilovers start at around 7-800 pounds, and rise depending on the brand and spec.

Will air ride improve handling?

Air ride is an example of active suspension, and that simply means it’s a suspension system where you can adjust the ride height from inside the car, at the touch of a button, in a matter of seconds.

Although this kind of suspension setup is mostly associated with showstopping looks – along with the practicality of being to raise your car for everyday hurdles such as speed bumps – modern air ride kits are usually built with performance in mind.

The simple truth is that most systems, when correctly installed, will be an improvement over your standard suspension. Just, think about it, if air ride made all cars handle horrendously or dangerously, there wouldn’t be so many cars on air ride, would there? And it’s not just the modified motors out there, plenty of HGVs, busses and more than a couple of prestige motors run air ride as standard. So, that should tell you everything you need to know about reliability, too.

Progressive air springs

But, you may ask, how does air ride actually improve chassis performance? Well, it’s worth remembering that an air bag is technically known as an air spring. It may not look like your average coil of course, but it’s a spring none the less. It’s this part that sets the ride height, and the more air you pump in the higher the car lifts. Increasing the pressure also stiffens the spring to give a firmer ride, although this may not be quite as firm as the most hardcore set of coilovers.

Modern air springs are also progressive, just like the best coil springs. The more they compress under load, the stiffer they get, and this offers a dynamic spring rate for a vast handling improvement when braking, acceleration or taking corners like a demon. Modern bags are engineered for liner travel, too. They expand on the vertical axis, instead of simply blowing up like a balloon.

It’s also a fact that – just like with coilovers – the air spring is always combined with a damper to control how it bounces back after being compressed. Many of the best air ride systems out there feature fully adjustable shock absorbers – in some cases supplied by well-known coilover manufacturers – so, what you’re getting is the same sort of damping adjustability. Basically then, an air strut is a coilover, but with a bag instead of a coil spring.

Is air ride better than coilovers?

So, now we know that – aside from the epic lows and the fact that, in the opinion of most people with eyes, nothing looks quite as good as a car slammed all the way to the floor – you can use air ride for a significant performance upgrade over standard suspension. But, what’s the extent of the handling improvement can you get? And where does that leave air ride in comparison to coilovers? Is air the better option?

Well, again it’s down to how you want to use your car. If it’s purely for looks, and you’d prefer to go lower than a purposeful racing stance, then yes, it probably is. Alternatively, of you want to run super low on the road with a comfortable ride, and still get on your drive at the flick of a switch, then yes, it definitely is. If you’re looking to build a car that’s great for the occasional track day and everyday driving on the road? Well, that one could go either way. And, if you’re putting together a racer that’s going to spend its whole life on the track, then probably not, coilovers may have a bit of an edge. Like we’ve already said, there’s a reason out-and-out race cars tend to utilize coilovers.

Racing cars vs road cars

That’s not to say that air ride doesn’t work in motorsport, it’s has been used on many a drag car, track car and even in NASCAR from as far back as the 1950s. But the extent of the adjustability and the old school reliability of steel hardware have made coilovers infinitely more popular for racing.

There’s also the question of durability. Race cars take a pounding every time they go out on the circuit, after all, that’s their job. And while there’s no doubt that air ride is durable, and extremely reliable, for the road, coilovers can arguably take more of a spanking for longer. All parts wear out faster on the track, but coilovers tend to be more heavy duty than bags, and they’re likely to be cheaper to replace when they do fail. So, while you can build and out-and-out track car on air ride, chances are that you won’t. For a road-going weekend track toy though? Well, that’s a different story.

Are there any downsides to air ride?

Yes, there are downsides to everything. The three main ‘cons’ for air ride are the cost, the ease of installation, and the availability of parts.

First of all, a decent air ride kit will easily cost you four or five times the price of a set of decent coilovers. Again, there are a few cheap kits out there, but for the best results you’ll need to go for a well-established and respected brand. And only then can you hope that they’ve actually developed and fully-tested a kit for your car. There’s not anywhere near as many air ride applications out there as there are coilover kits.

But, even with the best modern, model-specific air ride kits, they’ll never be as easy to fit as coilovers, simply because there’s more parts to consider. Aside from the struts themselves, you’ll be needing an air tank, a compressor, some kind of management to run the system, and then you’ve got to plumb it all in. You’d think that weight of all these extra bits and pieces would be an additional headache, but in reality that’s pretty negligible, especially for a road car. The main issue is that air ride takes longer to fit and, assuming you’re not doing the job yourself, that will inevitably mean more costs.

Verdict: Coilovers vs air ride

So, the answer to the question of coilovers vs air ride seems to be pretty complex then, but don’t worry because in reality it’s actually the simplest answer of all. Both are great, both have their uses, and both have their downsides, too. But the system you choose will always depend on exactly what you’re looking to achieve. Everyone’s an expert here and everyone has an opinion on the subject, that almost goes without saying nowadays. But just remember that there’s only one opinion that really matters when it comes to your car, and that opinion is yours.

The post Coilovers Or Air Ride: Which Is Best For Your Car? appeared first on Fast Car.

Whereas most people target car suspension first when chasing better handling, one of the simplest chassis upgrades you can actually make to your car is to replace the original front and rear anti-roll bars with performance upgrades. There’s a ton of manufacturers who produce anti-roll bars, so finding the aftermarket parts for your car won’t be a problem. We’ve opted for H&R because they make some of the best in the business for the Mk3 Focus RS, the test car we’re using in this guide.

The front and rear kit we have here feature adjustable mounting holes to increase or decrease the stiffness to suit your specific requirements, and both offer sharper feedback response, increased lateral stability and cornering grip, and reduce body roll. Like H&R’s world-famous lowering springs, the roll bars are manufactured to exacting standards; each bar is cold-formed, heat–treated, and shot-peened to maximize durability.

H&R anti-roll bars offer better handling performance when you start to push the RS to its limits, but without affecting the day-to-day usability of the car. They work well on a standard example, but compliment any RS running lowering springs or coilovers perfectly.

Also, while we might be showcasing how to do this on a Focus RS, the majority of the principles mentioned here still apply to most cars. But remember, forums are your friends if you need specific application advice.

Required equipment

Obviously, you’re going to need to source a set of anti-roll bars for your make and model of car, as mentioned before, lots of companies make them, so finding a kit shouldn’t be a problem. However, we’d always recommend using a reputable manufacturer, as you don’t want one of these failing. After all, the whole point of changing ARBs is to improve handling, not make it worse. You can buy all sorts of anti-roll bar kits from demon tweeks, so check out their full range of available brands here.

Once you’ve got the actual anti-roll bars that you want to fit, the next topic of focus is the tools that you need to do the job. Luckily, you won’t require anything out of the ordinary for this job, but get your jack, axle stands, a socket set, spanners, Torx bits, Allen keys, and a transmission jack ready.

How to fit front anti-roll bars

Removing cross-braces

• Securely support the car in the air (a ramp is best for this job) and remove the wheels.
• Now you can get to the rear support cross-brace. It’s held in place with four 15mm nuts that attach to a bracket and four 13mm bolts (two each side) and four 13mm bolts (two each side). The outer most bolts are hidden under some sound deadening; peel it back and you can access the bolts.
• On the rear face of the front subframe, two 13mm bolts fix an exhaust hanger bracket into place – remove these and disconnect the hangers from the rubbers in the bracket
• Now you can remove the two large triangular brackets that the cross-brace was attached to. A pair of 13mm bolts and one 21mm bolt it in place. Once you’ve removed all these, you can take the bracket away from the car.

Removing drop links

• Next up, remove the 15mm bolt that holds the rear torque mount onto the gearbox casing.
• Then you can remove the anti-roll bar drop links. Use a 6mm Allen key to hold the drop link steady, while removing the 15mm retaining nut.
• Before removing the drop link from the anti-roll bar – a gentle shove usually persuades them to part company.

Lowering the sub frame

• Now you need to pop inside the car and remove the 10mm pinch bolt that holds the steering column onto the steering rack. Once removed, straighten the steering wheel to the dead-ahead position to aid with lining everything up again during refitting.
• In preparation for lowering the subframe, use a transmission jack to support the weight of the subframe assembly.
• Using an extension bar going through an access hole in the subframe, you can now undo the 15mm bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis.
• Once you have enough access you can then remove the two 18mm/21mm nuts and bolts that hold the anti-roll bar in place. These bolts actually hold the rear wishbone bush, subframe, and anti-roll brackets together.
• With these bolts removed you can continue to slowly lower the subframe until the original anti-roll bar can be removed from the car.

Installing the new ARB

• The new H&R roll bars come supplied with new bushes, but you do need to prize off the brackets from the OEM roll bar to use on the new roll bar too.
• Now offer the new H&R roll bar in place.
• Use the transmission jack to lift the subframe back into position and refit everything previously removed. Refitting is the reverse of removal.
• When you get to reconnecting the drop links, however, the H&R roll bar offers two settings; for the softest setting use the first hole, or for a stiffer setting use the second hole.

How to fit rear anti-roll bars

Drop link & brace removal

• On to the rear now, and the first thing to remove is the small heat shield that protects the ARB bush on the passenger side.
• Now remove the rear anti-roll bar drop links; use a 6mm Allen key to hold the drop link while removing the 18mm retaining nut.
• Next, remove the two T40 Torx bolts that hold the front of the triangular brace followed by the 10mm bolts at the rear. Then
  remove the brace completely from the car.

Anti-roll bar removal

• Now you can get to the anti-roll bar brackets; these are held in place by two 13mm bolts on each side.
• With the brackets removed, you can then remove the roll bar from the car. Carefully feed the driver side end through the triangular bracket on that side and the bar will come away from the car.

Installing the new anti-roll bars

• As with the front, the rear H&R roll bar comes with the bushes in the kit. With these fitted to the bar you can then prize the bracket off the old bar and refit to the new H&R one.
• Now you can slide the new H&R roll bar in place and refit everything previously removed. Refitting is the reverse of removal.
• Like the front, you can adjust the rear H&R anti-roll bar. Fit the drop link to the first (outer) hole for the softer setting, or the second hole for the stiffer setting.
• Job done, uprated H&R anti-roll bars fitted front and rear! Ideally the car should have a quick alignment check after dropping the front subframe, but after that you’re good to go.

The post How To Fit Anti-Roll Bars appeared first on Fast Car.

Few cars evoke such emotion among fast Ford fans as the Escort RS Cosworth. The flared arches, chunky styling, motorsport heritage, and of course that iconic whale tail, are enough to make even the most hardened of Blue Oval buffs go weak at the knees.

While 227bhp may have been enough in the mid-nineties, today, that sort of power is easy to come by. A three-cylinder Fiesta with a simple Stage 1 remap makes more than that… and dare we say, drives better too!

The later T25-equipped ‘Small Turbo’ addressed some of the issues, and without the constraints of having to meet motorsport homologation rules, this uncompromising road car may have had around 10bhp less than its T34-boosted predecessor, but was a much better real-world machine as a result.

You can’t deny the styling is fantastic. Nothing else has anywhere near the same level of road presence. But if you want your EsCos to go as good as it looks, then you’ll need to tinker with a few bits, which is where this Ford Escort RS Cosworth tuning guide comes in.

The good news is that despite being 30 years old, there’s still a wealth of knowledge and an army of experts just waiting to unlock the Escort’s true potential. How far you go is up to you. You can create anything from a stunning showpiece right through to an all-conquering race or rally weapon, plus anything in between.

So, let’s take a look at some of our preferred tweaks to take your Ford Escort RS Cosworth to the next level.

Ford Escort RS Cosworth Engine Tuning

The famous Cosworth YB engine is probably the second main reason you bought an EsCos, behind its looks. But, as anyone who has driven a stock example will testify, the factory power does feel a little flat compared to modern machines.

Thankfully, it’s easily remedied. A simple Stage 1 chip – for both T34 and T25 cars – is a must; not only does it provide a useful dollop of extra power but livens up the whole driving experience with sharper throttle response and an increased sense of urgency too. A good first-stage remap will take things to around 270bhp, which is ideal for owners who still insist on a factory-original appearance, even under the bonnet.

Bolt-on tuning modifications

But those who are prepared to add some performance hardware will reap the rewards of doing so. The fundamentals of induction kit, exhaust system and intercooler upgrades should be top of your list. These will free up a bit more power, lay the foundations for further tuning, and aid the ageing Cossie’s reliability too. Plus, let’s face it, they look much better than the stock parts they replace too and are so popular that a YB just looks odd without them these days. A suitable remap should take things to around the 300bhp level, which is pretty much the limit you’ll coax from the later T25 car’s EEC-IV engine management system.

Engine management

At this point you’ll want to switch to the P8 Weber-Marelli ECU from a T34 EsCos or an even earlier L8 ECU from a 4×4 Sapphire Cosworth – handily, Autodynamix sells plug-and-play conversion looms that are perfect for the job. Alternatively, you could opt to fit a standalone ECU at this point too – the key is gaining control over more parameters than the stock EEC-IV allows. The smaller T25 turbo itself will also start to run out of puff, but fitting a bigger turbo is no drama at all.

Bigger turbos

From here, the tuning path is the same for both big turbo and small turbo models. More boost and larger injectors will take power all the way up to 350bhp – occasionally beyond. At this point it’s time to start thinking about what’s going inside: at the very least you’ll want an uprated head gasket but it’s very tempting to start adding lairy profile camshafts and a few other tweaks at the same time. The bottom end is good for more, but it’s wise to start thinking about different spec pistons (especially if they’ll need valve cut-outs to avoid interference with the bigger cams) and beefier con-rods at the same time.

The T34 turbo can be pressed to kick out 400bhp, but these days they are many better options available. Speak to specialists like Mark and Vince at Turbo Performance – they’ve been tuning YBs for years and have kept up to date with all the latest turbo tech so will be able to advise you on this perfectly.

With the boost taken care of, you’ll need to quench the YB’s accompanying thirst for fuel. Modern injectors are more than capable of doing the job, even on 500-to-600bhp machines, but many owners like the old-school aesthetics of an eight-injector setup when they pop the bonnet.

Further supporting modifications when tuning your Ford Escort RS Cosworth for high power

One other thing worth pointing out that never gets mentioned in tuning guides like this is that you’ll also need to factor in ancillary costs too: the stock fuel pump won’t supply the fuel fast enough to feed those bigger injectors; and the fuel lines themselves will probably also need replacing, ideally with some proper motorsport-spec fittings for reliability.

The engine breather system will also need uprating to cope with the extra demands, and if you are still working with the original electronics, the wiring loom will almost certainly be corroded and shot to bits. None of those will give you an instant bhp boost, granted – but without them, you won’t be going anywhere.

There are several different approaches you can take when it comes to tuning the Cossie YB, so speak to your engine builder and discuss what you want from the car before you start. That way you can spec the engine build correctly from the start to avoid disappointment or unnecessary expense and delay.

For more information, we’ve got a dedicated Cosworth YB tuning guide you can check out.

Ford Escort RS Cosworth Transmission Tuning

The Ford Escort RS Cosworth shares the same MT75 gearbox and viscous-coupling limited-slip differentials as found in the Sapphire Cosworth 4×4, and therefore has the same weaknesses. The synchros often take a beating and a standard ’box really doesn’t like anything over about 350bhp. A strengthened gearkit is the answer, and there are several to choose from ranging from fully straight-cut, to semi-straight-cut partial gear kits.

The original-spec clutch will cope with moderate increases in torque, but asking it to hang on to over 50 percent more than it was originally designed for will spell trouble. There are plenty of heavy-duty organic upgrades these days that can handle the power while remaining user-friendly enough for comfortable road use. Alternatively, there’s a whole world of motorsport-spec upgrades available for track and race cars too.

Ford Escort RS Cosworth Suspension Tuning

The first question you need to ask here is ‘what will I use the car for?’, and if the answer is mainly road use, then invest in a decent set of matched springs and dampers. Bilstein has always been a favourite of ours because they just do the job faultlessly, but Konis also come very highly rated for the Escort.

Many owners fit coilovers, but unless you’re going to take full advantage of them by having the car professionally set up on corner-weight scales (well worth it for a tuned car that gets driven hard) then they are probably overkill. Worse than that, unless you do set them up correctly, coilovers may even prove detrimental to the handling. Get it right though, with a well-specced set designed for fast road use and the occasional track outing, and the car will come alive in the corners.

It’s also worth replacing the sloppy old rubber bushes with tight and firmer Powerflex upgrades – most of the bushes will be well worn by now and in need of replacement, so fitting upgrades makes a lot of sense.

Be sure to visit our guide to the best car suspension brands for more advice on where to buy.

Ford Escort RS Cosworth Brake Tuning

If there’s one area of the Escort RS Cosworth that’s a bit of a let-down, it’s the brakes. They work, just about, but they look terrible. And you’ll quickly find their limits when you start to push harder.

A set of performance discs and pads give the extra bite needed for most road cars but does nothing for the aesthetics. A proper big brake kit is the only way to go, with offerings for the well-established AP Racing being the stand-out favourite. Big brake kits tend to start at 330mm diameter and increase to 355mm, 362mm, or massive 378mm options. None of these will fit behind the stock 16in alloys, but Reyland Motorsport does offer a 308mm big disc upgrade to work with the original caliper for those looking to maximise braking performance but retain the stock alloys.

Looking for inspiration? Visit our guide to the best brake pads and rotors.

Wheel and Tyre Options

The five-spoke Escort Cossie wheel is one of the all-time Ford greats. It’s been fitted to almost every model to carry the Blue Oval badge over the years and has been the subject of countless replicas too. Needless to say, most owners don’t feel the need to change anything.

But, if you’ve fitted bigger brakes or are looking to personalise the appearance of your EsCos, then new wheels are a must. Upping to 17s or even 18s is common and relatively problem-free; 19s will just about squeeze under the arches with some work.

The stock alloys have an unusually low offset for a Ford at just ET25, so wheel choice can be limiting. Compomotive wheels are always a popular choice with various fitments that will suit, including the 8.0×17” MO1785 that’s available with an ET20 offset to fill the EsCos’s arches perfectly.

We’ve also seen five-stud conversions completed to open a wider choice of wheel options for the EsCos – just don’t go to all that trouble and then bolt on a set of cheap Japanese rims that’ll detract from the Cossie’s classic looks.

Ford Escort RS Cosworth Exterior Modifications

You didn’t buy an Escort RS Cosworth thinking it looked bland, did you? So why would you think you can do better? Don’t ruin one of the most iconic automotive designs of all time with tacky add-ons in the name of ‘making it your own’. But, if you really are the kind of person who simply cannot leave things alone, then the key is ‘less is more’. Subtle tweaks like carbon fibre pieces (real, not fake stuff!) always works well, and the WRC bodykit certainly adds some motorsport appeal, if not a little divisive among fans for a road car.

If you really want to set the cat among the pigeons, consider removing the whale tail as Ford offered with the Aero-delete option when the car was new – prepare to be admired and chastised in equal measure at shows though. Oh, and never, ever, mention a third wing!

Interior Upgrades for the Escort RS Cosworth

Most Escort RS Cosworths were fitted with leather Recaros from the factory, and there’s nothing wrong with them at all for fast road use. We prefer the original Hex cloth seats, but that’s just a personal preference, and both types are perfectly suited to fast road driving.

For regular track use, however, they could be better. In those cars, many owners opt to fit proper motorsport bucket seats complete with four-point harnesses. Stripping out the rear seats and adding some lightweight carpet and a cargo net to keep things neat and tidy gives an OEM-like Clubsport feel to the cabin.

The post Ford Escort RS Cosworth Tuning Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Here at Fast Car we’ve fitted many a car exhaust in the workshop over the years. The truth is they’re all different, not just in their specific application but in the way they fit. That said, installing a performance exhaust is one of the all-time great basic car tuning upgrades. So, we’ve decided to tell you everything you ever wanted to know about getting one on your car. You lucky, lucky people.

Aftermarket cat- or DPF-back exhaust systems are the most commonly available because, by not replacing the emissions control device on your vehicle, you’ll not only keep the cost down but (assuming your shiny new exhaust isn’t silly-loud) it’ll also be road-legal no matter where you are in the world. That part counts for a lot, we think you’ll agree.

So, that’s exactly what we’re going to concentrate here, cat-and DPF-back exhausts. Here’s how to fit a car exhaust.

Step 1: Choose the right car exhaust

Will it fit?

Not every exhaust will fit every car. It may seem like an obvious one, but it’s easy to fail at the first hurdle. Exhaust upgrades are not only specific to the marque, model and engine spec of the vehicle, but often to the optional extras and trim-level, too. Plenty of modern cars are offered with or without electronically controlled flaps to adjust noise levels, or simply different bumper trims, and this will likely affect the exhaust you choose. Some cars have even been known to change options such as a spare wheel and where the battery is mounted on the same model, which can affect how the manufacturer routes the exhaust system.

To make it even more confusing, if your car is already running a sports cat, decat or DPF replacement, it may not be compatible with every aftermarket exhaust out there. The same goes for those sporting an aftermarket rear bumper or diffuser, an engine transplant, a different turbocharger, or an aftermarket exhaust that you’d simply prefer to change. Granted you’ll probably already know in these cases but just bear in mind that, if you buy a car that’s already modified, you might not be able to simply order an upgrade for the standard version of that car.

System vs backbox exhaust?

The second consideration is if you’re looking for performance or just the look? There’s absolutely nothing wrong fitting a new backbox without the rest of the system. It’s true that you’ll get less of a performance hike, but that’s not always the priority anyway. Where a backbox may differ to a cat back system is in the fitting, very often back boxes aren’t straight bolt-on items, they may require the cutting of the original system to make them fit. We’ll get on to that and the different types of fittings shortly….

Noise levels

On the flip side, it may well be performance you’re looking for and that’s where noise levels tend to come into play. It’s not just important on the road – chiefly for keeping the police off your back – but an excessively loud exhaust may also stop you hitting the circuit. Most racetracks have a strict noise level they have to adhere to, and it’s very likely that officials will test your car on any track day.

Many performance exhausts for the road are much louder than what certain tracks allow, even when they’re specifically denoted as ‘race’, ‘race-only’ or ‘off-road’ exhausts. All this really means is that they may not be road legal, so always keep that in mind if you’re heading to a proper circuit. We’ve seen many cases where a performance exhaust is fitted, but the car also requires a bolt-on silencer to keep the noise down on track.

Most of all look for a reputable manufacturer because, more often than not, they’ve already done all the research for you. And remember that just because you can buy a particular exhaust, doesn’t make it street legal where you happen to live.

Other car exhaust options

So, some aftermarket exhausts may be noisier than others, but it’s not just that, there’s often a whole load of other options, too. Different tailpipes is perhaps the most common, nowadays you can get your hands on everything from black, titanium or burnt tips, to carbon fiber and ceramic tips. In many cases these are simply clamp-on items that you can adjust to suit your particular needs. For other applications, and perhaps most commonly, you might see non-adjustable tailpipes simply welded onto the backbox.

Then there’s often a choice of what kind of tips to fit to your back box – are you after twin exit, dual exit, a 5-inch tip, slash cut, outward rolled, or any number of other options? We don’t need to tell you that tastes and modified trends have changed quite a lot of the years so just because something is still on sale, doesn’t mean that you should necessarily fit it to your car.

Finally, most aftermarket exhaust manufacturers are sensible enough to may make one or two exhaust options for your car. These could be a ‘road legal’ option and something a bit more fruity. But, there are a few out there – most commonly in the Japanese car market – which seem to make a mind boggling array of different exhausts for exactly the same car. It’s easy to get confused here, especially by all the silly names they seem to slap on ‘em, so it pays to do your research. If you need a little help, check out our guide to the best car exhausts brands.

Step 2: Prep for fitting the new car exhaust

This is the bit where most will say you simply bolt your shiny new exhaust on and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. But, being the professionals we are, we can tell you that there are a few other things you need to know before you start… and not just the usual health and safety stuff (like making sure everything is secure on a ramp or axle stands, and that the exhaust has cooled enough for you to touch without getting injured). How your new exhaust will actually fit together in comparison to the stock item is also important. Put simply, not every bolt-on upgrade is a bolt on upgrade.

Flange joints

The vast majority of standard exhausts bolt onto the cat/DPF end using a flanged and gasketed joint. In V configuration engines this can also be a V pipe which runs from multiple cats and cuts down to a single outlet. The rest of the system will then be modular, bolting together using several flanges and gaskets all the way to the back. The whole system will hang on vibration isolators (otherwise known as the exhaust rubbers) which makes sure it has a little give and stops it rattling out your fillings on idle. In most cases you’ll have one or two mid pipes and then the back box, sometimes with more modular pipes from the backbox to the tips.

This kind of setup allows quick and easy replacement of any given part of the system, should it rust through or become damaged. Which is clearly more cost effective than replacing the whole lot in one go.

Sleeve joints and clamps

What’s important here is that an aftermarket system may not necessarily use flanged joints all the way to the backbox, nowadays sleeved joints and clamps tend to be even more common. This is where a portion of the pipe is enlarged in diameter (and few a few inches along its length) to enable the next pipe to slot in place and be clamped up tight. This kind of setup ensures that it’s far easier to fine tune and adjust later, should you need to slightly twist a pipe or tailpipe trim to get the fitment spot on.

On some systems and stand-alone backbox upgrades a sleeved joint may be the only fitment option, meaning that you need to cut the original system along the center pipe, close to the cat or backbox. This, as you can imagine, makes fitting more involved than with a system that simply bolts in place. You’ll need to measure and cut accurately to ensure proper fitment. That said, rather than having to remove the whole lot and break out the angle grinder, exhaust pipe cutters are relatively cheap, and make a much neater job. You can even leave the pipe on the car as you cut.

Nuts and bolts

For aftermarket exhausts that use common 2- or 3-bolt flanges for fitment, these may or may not need gaskets depending on the application, but what’s just as important is the bolts that hold them all together. Most aftermarket exhausts will come with all the necessary bolts to get the job done, but the cat/DPF end can often complicate things.

Many emission control devices use captive studs to mount the standard exhaust. These are simply bolts that are fixed in place and don’t spin, so you only have to tighten on a set of nuts to nip it all up. This also means that you don’t have to push a standard bolt through the holes in two flanges and use a nut to tighten them together.

Now while this is great in theory, if the nuts on these captive studs have rusted on over time, or the bolts themselves are too short to pass through the flange on the new exhaust, it can throw up a problem or two. In these cases it will be necessary to remove the captive bolts so you can use standard ‘pass-through’ bolts instead. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to heat them up and hammer them out. But, if you’re not, it may require a whole lot of cutting and drilling.

V-band clamps

Finally, a few cars use V-band clamps as standard. These are kind of a cross between a sleeve joint and a flange. Typically, it involves two flared lengths of pipe joining together with a heavy-duty V-shaped clamp, utilizing a specially shaped gasket in between. These are great for minor adjustment should you need to twist your pipe later. They’re not the most common, but you’ll find them on a few BMWs and a few VAG cars.

Visual inspection

Before you start your install, we’d always recommend laying your new system out on floor to compare it with the standard system. This allows you to not only check how the new one fits together (along with the position of the hangers that should slot into the standard rubbers) but helps you ascertain if it’s actually going to fit. Most aftermarket systems may be a bit larger in diameter, but they will closely follow the bends and route of the original. If something looks wrong, chances are that it is. So, don’t do any cutting until you’re certain.

Step 3: Fit the car exhaust

And all this brings us to the main event – getting your new exhaust on there. With the knowledge you now have this should be extremely straightforward, but there are a few top tips that are worth knowing…

Support it

First make sure you have enough support. A big lump of steel landing on your head is what’s known in the business as a bad day. Always use a jack, axle stands or transmission jack to take the weight off while your work.

Use lube

Penetrating spray, such as WD40, will always help you get those nuts off. Spray them up and leave it to work its magic for 15-miniutes or so before attempting removal. It’s also great for lubricating any rubbers to help you slip them off the standard exhaust hangers. If you need a little force with those a long pry-bar will be your best friend.

Clean your nuts

Rusty nuts and bolts are no good to anyone, they’re also harder to remove without shearing them off. So, when at all possible, always hit ‘em with a wire brush to clean up any protruding threads. This will make removal so much easier.

Use an impact gun

Rather than the sheer torque you’ll use when hanging off those bolts with long bar, an impact gun uses a hammer action to loosen them while cutting down on the chance of shearing. If you have one, and it’s possible to get it in there, use that rather than a hand ratchet or breaker bar.

Be cautious

Don’t forget that the cat/DPF or downpipe connects to the manifold or turbocharger. Make sure its adequately supported and check that it’s not going to break off at the other end if you go hammering away at it.

Back to front, front to back

This is usually the easiest way to remove a standard exhaust and fit a new one. Work from the back to the front during removal and start bolting on your new system at the front of the car, working to the rear. During your fitting don’t tighten everything up fully as you go, instead get it all there loosely and nip it up right at the end.

Use assembly compound

It may be a little frowned upon, and you rarely see any in those flashy pictures from exhaust manufacturers, but this stuff does help eliminate the chance of any leaks. In most cases even the pros will slap on a little, just in case.

Double check the car exhaust and adjust

Once you nipped everything up reasonably tight, check how the exhaust fits and make any adjustments. Is it banging on the chassis? Are the tail pipes straight? Is it hanging down more than it should? If everything looks good then well done, you’re finished… well, almost.

Step 4: Optimize the car exhaust with a remap

On most cars at least, it’s not the end of the world if you don’t, but about now it does pay to think about optimizing the system with a remap. All this does is help make the most of the free-flowing ability of your exhaust, along with any other bolt on tuning mods (such as a performance air filter) that you’ve chosen to install along the way. Adjusting the ecu software will help to optimize the power output, significantly upping the gains you’ll normally get from stand-alone fitment. You don’t have to do it of course, but we would.

That said, on some cars which leave the factory with a spicy tune – particularly those Japanese super-sedans with a penchant for the world’s rally stages – ‘mapping-in’ your exhaust could be vital. We’ve even heard of some cars backing off the power because the sensors tell the ECU that something is wrong, just because the owner has fitted an aftermarket exhaust. And, let’s face it, we’re not in the business of tuning to lose power, right? For more information on mapping-in yours check out our ECU remapping guide.

The post How To Fit a Car Exhaust appeared first on Fast Car.

The term direct injection seems like a very modern idea, or at least it certainly seems to have become popular in recent years. But the concept itself has been in use for around 100 years in low-pressure form and was once popular with certain car manufacturers in the 1950s. However, direct injection has recently made a return, perhaps most notably with Ford’s EcoBoost range of engines. The reason that these engines are so popular once again (now in more advanced high-pressure form) is for the benefits they offer, which includes hugely improved efficiency and performance over a traditional fuel injection engine. Perfect, then, for some tuning.

How does direction injection work?

As the name suggests, direct fuel injection does exactly what it says on the tin in that the injector sprays directly into the cylinder combustion chamber. But to really understand how that is possible and why it has benefits, it’s important to know how a more traditional manifold or port fuel injection set up works first.

Port fuel injection

As many reading might well know, with this set up a fuel injector sits within the inlet manifold, just before it meets the cylinder head’s inlet ports. It then sprays fuel down into the ports. The engine’s natural induction then carries the fuel to the cylinder’s combustion chamber, where the spark plugs mounted within the cylinder head ignite it.

Direct injection systems require high-pressure pumps and injectors to work.

Direct fuel injection

A direct injection set up is far simpler on paper, as the fuel injector is simply mounted within the cylinder head alongside the spark plug, therefore spraying fuel directly into the chamber and cutting out the travelling process. By doing this, you can inject fuel far more carefully and quickly, therefore using less of it and improving efficiency. It also helps to cool cylinder temperatures more effectively, which means there’s a smaller chance of detonation and you can push ignition timing further. This, in turn, creates more power and performance.

However, the system comes with its own complexities. For example, on a Ford EcoBoost engine, the fuel pressure is set to around 220-bar, or around 3,000psi! Whereas, a manifold fuel injection engine would see less than 60psi. As a result of the massively increased pressure, manufacturers need to heavily rework the fuel pump and entire system to cope, using very high-pressure lines and fittings.

The reason for this increased pressure is the length of time the injector has to fire in relation to the spark, as well as the position of the piston in the cylinder. Known as the injector window, on a normal engine this would be around 18-milliseconds, but a direct injection engine has a window to spray fuel of just 6-milliseconds. As it’s so short, the fuel has to be injected very quickly, which is why big capacity injectors are required to work under huge pressure in order to inject large amounts of fuel in a short space of time.

Ford’s award-winning EcoBoost engines use direct injection to maximize performance and efficiency.

Are there any downsides to direct injection engines?

The only real downside to a direct injection set up is that the cylinders contain fuel at all times. That might sound like a positive, but actually it’s not in comparison to a manifold injection set up. That’s because spraying fuel down into the cylinder also happens to do one very important job: it constantly cleans the ports and valves of any oil residue and carbon build up – a particular problem since all engines now need to recirculate any crankcase gases back through the engine to burn them off rather than just vent them to atmosphere as with classic cars.

As a direct injection engine cannot use the fuel injected to clean the inlet tract and backs of the inlet valves, it’s possible to see the ports and valves coke up with deposits, which in time hampers the engine’s efficiency and performance. This occurs slowly over many miles though and there are alternative processes to clean these, and aftermarket upgrades to oil breather systems which will help filter out any oily deposits before recirculating them back through the engine.

What’s the future of fuel injection?

As you’d expect with today’s drive towards cleaner emissions and more efficient combustion engines, there has been lots of constant development in the field of fuel injection, and one system to keep an eye on is Mahle’s new Jet Ignition system (MJI). This combines port and direct fuel injection systems, with the spark plug and direct fuel injector located within a special pre-chamber above the main combustion chamber.

A small amount of fuel ignites in the pre-chamber, which forces jets of hot, partially-combusted air/fuel through tiny holes in the bottom of the pre-chamber. This then ignites the main air/fuel mix in the main combustion chamber. As a result, the air/fuel mixture ignites more evenly across the whole of the combustion chamber and not just at a single point near the spark plug, making for a more complete combustion, more power, and ultimately better efficiency. If you’re into this kind of thing, check out the Mahle Jet ignition technology.

Words: Simon Holmes

The post Direct Injection Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

When it comes to aftermarket suspension, it’s not simply a case of ‘one size fits all’. Instead, you’ll want to opt for a different set-up depending upon two things: A, which generation of Mazda RX-7 you own, and B, what your tuning goals are. So, without further ado, here’s the best Mazda RX-7 suspension that the aftermarket has to offer.

If you don’t own an RX-7 but are looking to upgrade the running gear of your own car, be sure to check out our guide to the best car suspension in 2023.

Best Suspension for Mazda RX-7 (FC)

What’s it like as Standard?

Although still a fun car to drive, the second gen ‘FC’ is arguably the least athletic RX-7 in its factory guise.

Aimed primarily at the American market, Mazda designed the FC to be more of a GT cruiser than a true B-Road specialist. As a result, it came with a number of suspension revisions compared to the original SA22 RX-7, though they weren’t to everyone’s liking.

The headline piece of tech was Mazda’s Dynamic Tracking Suspension System (DTSS), which adjusts the toe angle at each wheel depending on cornering force. The intention was to improve stability, though as a knock-on effect, it does reduce the amount of feel and feedback sent back to the driver.

Similarly, Auto Adjusting Suspension (AAS) was another new feature on the FC. This tech alters the damper settings in line with the road surface for an improved ride, but like DTSS, it also numbs the driving experience.

It wasn’t all bad news though. The original SA22 RX-7 had quite a twitchy rear end, but that was largely corrected in time for the FC by swapping its live axle for an independent rear suspension set-up instead.

The Best Street Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FC

If you want the best results from a suspension upgrade, we’d suggest opting for a set of coilovers rather than lowering springs – if you’ve got the budget for it. This is because as well as getting that lower ride height, coilovers also present you with much more adjustability to get the balance right between comfort and performance. Whereas, with lowering springs, you’re locked into a firmer spring rate. It’s also worth noting that coilovers come with a spring rate that’s matched to the dampers as, after all, you’re buying the full package in one kit. With lowering springs, that’s not the case, and as result your ride quality may suffer.

The Best Coilover Options

One of the top coilover kits out there for the Mazda RX-7 FC is the ISR Performance Pro Series. These come with 32-way adjustable damping, a monotube design, and front pillowball mounts. ISR deemed its previous ‘basic’ coilover kit good enough for Formula Drift, but these Pro Series examples are a technological step up from those, suitable for both street and track use. You can order them direct from ISR for $925 (£756), though some online retailers sell them at a higher premium.

If you aren’t keen on ISRs, BC Racing is another hugely reputable brand that provide aftermarket coilovers for the FC. The entry-level BR kit is more capable than its pegging within BC Racing’s product hierarchy suggests, and as such costs a little bit more than the ISRs. You’re probably also paying a bit more for the brand name. You’ll have to spend $1284 (£1049) on the BR series kit, but as far as coilovers go, that’s still within the reasonably affordable bracket.

Our final top pick for street use is the HSD Monopro. They retail for $1024 (£845), however you can often pick them up for a bit less than that in a sale. At the time of writing, HSD will sell them to you directly for a reduced rate of $930 (£760). However, it’s worth noting that these HSDs only offer 16-stage damping adjustment, which is about half the amount of adjustment you get with either the ISR or BC Racing kits mentioned above.

The Best Circuit Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FC

What if your FC RX-7 is a more specialized build though? A car destined for circuit use only, perhaps. Well, happily there’s plenty of hardcore performance-oriented coilover kits on the market that place less emphasis on road comfort for the sake of all-out handling gains on the track.

An example of the top end of this genre is Yellow Speed Racings’s Advanced Pro Plus kit. You can get them with either a 3-way ($3551/£2902) or 2-way ($2873/£2348) design, where the 3-way option adds the ability to adjust high-speed rebound (how quickly the vehicle rises after hitting a bump).

If you can’t quite make your budget stretch that far, D2 Racing will hook you up with some circuit-tailored coilovers for $1510 (£1234) instead. Don’t think the reduction in price is a sign that they’re no good either. D2 claims that this kit has been used to achieve more than 250 race victories at grassroots level, and they offer an impressive 36 stages of damping adjustment.

Suspension for Drifting and Drag Racing

But what if you don’t what to do track days or time attacks? Well, KSport’s got you covered. They’ll sell you coilover kits for the FC RX-7 designed for either road rallies or drag racing, each kit costing $1900 (£1553) to buy. Or, if you prefer going sideways, you can grab some drift-focused coilovers from them for $2050 (£1675).

TEIN also provide a drift coilover kit for the RX-7 at a slightly more affordable price ($1790/£1463). They come with 16-way adjustability, a twin-tube structure, pillowball upper mounts, and a pedigree of competing in D1 GP. Speaking of D1 GP, Yellow Speed Racing’s Dynamic Pro Drift coilovers were partially designed by triple Japanese drifting champion, Yoichi Imamura. A set of those will cost you $1900 (£1553) normally, but at the time of writing they’re on sale for just $1480 (£1209).

The Best Stance Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FC

To get the lowest possible stance without committing yourself to a life of scraping every driveway and speed bump, air suspension is the way to go. These kits rely on air compressors to lower and raise the car, meaning that you can slam it right to the ground at a car meet, before lifting it back up again for the drive home.

The downside is that these things aren’t cheap. The most expensive air suspension we could find for the Mazda RX-7 FC was the KS Racing Premium Wireless kit. It comes packed with functionality including custom user pre-set ride heights, independent corner adjustment, ‘rise on start’, Bluetooth app control, and much more besides. The cost for all this tech? $6600 (£5393).

AirREX, meanwhile, will sell you a full kit for around $6000 (£5000) or you can pick up the struts alone without the management system for $2937 (£2400). Airdynamiks offer one of the most attainable air kits for the FC though, priced at $2340 (£1912) for the full suspension and management system, or $1500-$2000 for the struts alone, depending on spec.

For a cheaper alternative to air suspension, Yellow Speed sell a ‘Super Low’ coilover kit for $1325 (£1078). This will achieve an 80mm-130mm drop in ride height, but remember you can’t just flick a switch and raise your FC back up again for the journey home.

The Best Budget Options for a Mazda RX-7 FC

If times are a little tough and you don’t have masses of cash to splash on some new suspension, don’t worry too much. There are a number of options out there designed to cater to tighter budgets.

On the coilover end of the spectrum, you could opt for a set of FIVE8s for $705 (£574). However, be aware that these don’t come with any damping adjustability, and instead will be pre-set by the manufacturer. But hey, at least you know that the spring rate will definitely be correctly set-up for the damper (unlike with simple lowering springs).

If you don’t see the point in non-adjustable coilovers, fair enough. Lowering springs with set ride heights can also be sourced for the Mazda RX-7 FC that simply fit around the standard shocks. They’re much cheaper than coilovers. For example, well-respected Japanese brand TEIN offer FC lowering springs for just $192. Expect a ride height reduction of between 1-2 inches with those.

Peripheral Suspension Parts

Beyond the actual springs and dampers, there’s plenty other elements of the FC’s suspension that you can alter and upgrade.

If you’re after upgraded anti-roll bars to improve body stability through corners, Ultra Racing will provide them as well as a range of strut braces.

It may also be worth replacing any old worn rubber bushings with new polyurethane ones. In fact, speaking of bushings, JJLR Performance sell a DTSS delete kit for $175 (£142).

For a closer look at the best ways to modify your Mazda RX-7 FC, check out our dedicated tuning guide. Or, if you’re in the market for one, check out our buyer’s guide instead.

Best Suspension for Mazda RX-7 (FD)

What’s it like as Standard?

For many, the third gen ‘FD’ RX-7 was the peak of Mazda’s RX family tree. In fact, some might argue that it’s one of the best sports cars to ever come out of Japan, and a big part of that comes down to the way it handles.

Whereas the FC it replaced was quite soft by design, the FD restored the RX-7’s image as a true driver’s car. It was lighter, more powerful, and dialed in to attack apexes rather than glide over them. Its ride is by no means rough, but certainly gives more feedback than the FC.

From the factory, the FD RX-7 came equipped with independent double wishbone suspension at both the front and rear of its chassis.

The Best Street Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FD

For street use, the golden standard is Ohlins’ Road & Track coilover kit. Priced at around $2000 (£1800), Ohlins R&T ensures that ride quality isn’t sacrificed in the name of performance gains on the road. In its standard guise it’ll be a marked improvement over the stock set-up, however if you really want something a bit more hardcore, this Ohlins kit can do that too. Making adjustments to the damper stiffness is quick and easy. For a more extreme performance-focused tune, all you have to do is turn the golden knob clockwise to put the coilovers into ‘race mode’. Then when you’ve had your fun and your back’s starting to ache, simply twist it back again for a comfortable drive home.

Alternatively, BC Racing provide an ER Series set of coilovers for the FD RX-7, which they market as their most advanced suspension technology yet. That kit will cost you around $2000 including VAT, but if you can’t afford those then BC Racing’s BR Series coilovers (as mentioned above in the FC segment) are also available for the FD.

The Best JDM Coilovers

HKS is a tuning brand that most Japanese car enthusiasts will be very familiar with, and naturally they supply a range of coilovers for the FD RX-7. The Hipermax S kit retails for $1750 (£1427), though if you’ve got a bit more cash to play with, the more advanced Hipermax R coilovers are worth a look. Those are priced at a more aspirational price point of $2680 (£2185) though.

Sticking with reputable Japanese brands, TEIN Mono Sport coilovers offer 16-way damper adjustability from a single-tube design. A full set of those costs around $1500 (£1300). Or, for a more comfort-focused ride (while still offering noticeable handling and ride height changes), you could grab some TEIN Flex Z twin-tube coilovers for just $986 (£804).

Finally, APEXi is a brand that’s well associated with the FD RX-7. In fact, when Yoichi Imamura won the 2003 D1 GP championship in an RX-7, he did so as part of the APEXi drift team. A set of APEXi N1 EXV coilovers represent a fairly attainable option, priced at $1044 (£851).

The Best Circuit Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FD

Full-on track day and time attack builds require something a little more special though. Suspension which doesn’t give a damn about roadgoing ride quality, but instead focuses on extracting the best handling out of a car on a smooth closed circuit.

Nitron have pedigree in the grassroots motorsport scene, and with that pedigree comes both impressive tech and slightly daunting price tags. Their NTR R1 kit is a proven beast for the track, but it will cost you $3432 (£2798).

For about a grand less, BC Racing offer their ZR Series coilovers with 3-way adjustability, while KSport produce even cheaper options. Providing specialized kits for road rallies, drag racing, and drifting, you can pick up a set of KSports for $1615 (£1317) over at Redline360.com at the moment.

The Best Stance Suspension for a Mazda RX-7 FD

For a seriously low stance that won’t cripple your FD RX-7s usability, you’ll want a set of bags. AirREX sell a full air suspension kit (complete with digital management system) for north of $5000.

Or, for slightly less money, you could bag yourself a Stealth suspension package with Air Lift 3P management system. That combination is available for $4631 (£3748).

Of course, there are much cheaper ways to get a slammed look, and we’ll be covering those next…

The Best Budget Options for a Mazda RX-7 FD

As far as coilovers go, you don’t really want to be cheaping out on those. As a general rule, anything less than about $600 probably isn’t worth putting on your car, if you can even find kits at that price point for the FD RX-7.

However, that’s not to say that you have to spend four figures to get yourself a decent coilover kit. TEIN’s Street Advance Z set-up, for example, provides improved handling and a lower stance for $765 (£624).

Then we get to lowering springs. Whereas coilovers come with the springs and shocks combined in one package, lowering springs are just the springs, and thus have to sit around your car’s stock shocks. This raises a few downsides as we mentioned above when covering them for the FC RX-7, however if you’re really on a tight budget, you won’t get more bang for your buck with any other option.

H&R promises a 1-1.25 inch drop in ride height from its FD RX-7 lowering springs, which are priced at a comparative bargain ($258/£210). TEIN S-Tech springs should offer a similar lowering effect for even less ($204/£166). Or, if you’re concerned about the impact that non-adjustable lowering springs will have on your FD’s ride quality, you can opt for some TEIN High Techs. These only lower that car by 0.7-0.8 inches, and sell for the same price.

Peripheral Suspension Parts

In addition to simple springs and shocks, you’ll get the best handling results by upgrading other elements of your FD RX-7’s suspension too. Hardrace suspension arms, for example, allow for a wide range of camber, castor and toe adjustment. Plus, they come with rose jointed ends, removing any slop found in the standard ends which are rubber bushes.

That solution may be a bit overkill if you’re just doing fast road stuff though. If you’re not doing serious time attacks, you’d get favorable enough results simply by swapping the worn bushes out for polyurethane ones. Powerflex does full front and rear kits.

For a closer look at the best ways to modify your Mazda RX-7 FD, check out our dedicated tuning guide. Or, if you’re in the market for one, check out our buyer’s guide instead.

Geometry

Finally, it goes without saying that whichever generation of RX-7 you have, and whatever type of build you’re striving for, you should always get a geometry alignment carried out after installing new suspension parts or wheels & tires. Your average garage should be able to ensure that everything’s straight, but if you want to dial in some custom camber or toe set-ups, then head to your nearest specialist instead.

How to buy the best suspension for your RX-7

If you’re looking to upgrade your suspension, you first want to ask why. Do you just want the car to sit lower to the ground? Do you want height adjustability? Are you modifying a car for shows or for use on track? Which then leads on to questions about how often the car is driven on track, or how often it’s used on the road. Each scenario opens up a different avenue of suspension tuning. If you’re someone that’s after lower looks and aren’t bothered about improved handling, opting for a simple set of lowering springs will be all you need. For those looking for more performance but still predominantly drive on the road, you can look at both spring and damper upgrades, which could be a complete coilover kit.

Coilovers give you the ability to adjust the height, and in some cases, adjust high and low-speed compression rates as well as high and low-speed rebound and more. The more expensive the coilover kit, usually the more features it has. For most, the need for 3-way or even 4-way adjustable coilovers isn’t necessary, not unless you’re chasing lap times or even 1/4 mile runs.

Coilovers will offer more performance than a simple lowering spring, but with it can compromise comfort. The higher end products will be tailored towards track-day/motorsport applications. Air suspension on the other hand is a great option for those wanting more extreme lows without compromising usability on the road. With the ability to change the ride height at the flick of a switch, or tap of an app, it means you get the best of both worlds. What’s more, the latest air suspension kits from the likes of Air Lift Performance are more than capable of dealing with the odd track day here and there.

Why upgrade car suspension?

There are a number of reasons why someone may want to upgrade their car suspension. We mentioned a few above, such as if you intend to go on track in your car, or you simply just want to lower the ride height. But, someone may also be looking to upgrade simply to bring the car’s ride to modern standards. If you’re driving an older car (20 years+) it’s likely sitting on very tired suspension if its previous owners haven’t replace it over the years. Opting for an aftermarket option can not only be sometimes cheaper than OEM options (if they’re still available…) but they offer a far superior ride quality and handling.

While we haven’t focused on any lift kits above, those who like to take their vehicles off-road may want to lift the ride height completely, for more ground clearance. You won’t be able to do this with OEM suspension, you’ll have to visit the aftermarket.

Just make sure that the suspension you’re looking at buying directly fits onto your car.

For some extra background info on suspension, feel free to check out the following resources first:

• Guide to static suspension
• Guide to suspension mods
• Guide to hydraulic suspension
• Guide to air suspension

The post Best Suspension for Mazda RX-7 appeared first on Fast Car.

There’s no doubt that performance air filters are an all-time modifying staple. In fact, it’s extremely likely that one of these puppies will be one of the very first port of call when you modify your car. There’s lots to love here, too. You get more power in one relatively easy-to-fit package, that’s why performance filters will always be an all-time great basic bolt-on. But then again, there’s always the question; which one is going to be best for your car? But, don’t worry, that’s exactly where we’re here to help.

Let’s take a look at the benefits and disadvantages of the most common types of filter upgrades and weigh up the big one – should you be fitting a performance panel filter, or a whopping great cone.

How does an air filter upgrade work?

When it comes to performance tuning any engine, optimizing the airflow in and out is the main starting point. Getting more air – specifically more oxygen – into the cylinders means more fuel added, resulting in a bigger bang and more power output. No matter the configuration, the job of a performance filter is simple; to let more air flow through more quickly, while still filtering out potentially harmful particles that could be detrimental to the health of the engine.

Standard filters are generally constructed from paper, which is great for filtration, but not ideal for airflow. So, a performance filter using a free-flower material to help you make the gains. For a full rundown of the science, check out our Guide To Air Filters.

Performance Panel Filter

It’s almost undeniable that, starting from around 40-quid a pop, performance panel filters are one of the cheapest tuning mods available. Especially when you consider that they’re designed to be washable and reusable. Yep, you need never buy another stock paper filter again. Saving you a decent few quid every 10000-miles or so.

The other advantage of uprated panel filters of course, is that these are a direct-fit mod which takes literally seconds to install. It makes sense. Your stock filter is quickly replaceable during routine servicing, so the car manufacturers make them easy to swap out, just to ensure their main dealers can do the job in as little time as possible. This advantage translates directly to your performance filter. Being the same size and shape as the standard item, you simply open the airbox, launch the stock filter into the nearest bin, pop in the new one, shut the airbox and you’re good to go. Pretty easy right? In fact, we’ve had cars where it takes more time to find the bonnet catch than fit the filter!

So, with a performance panel filter you’ll get an easy upgrade in airflow for sure. However, it’s the airbox itself where you’ll see the main stumbling block for power tuning. The airbox will always offer a restriction to airflow itself. Unlike with a cone filter, a panel filter can only suck in the air that’s passing through the airbox.

Airflow vs heat soak

Now, it’s a double-edged sword this one. Chiefly because your stock airbox is specifically designed to protect your air filter from heat. Hot air is less dense by volume than cold air; it contains less oxygen. And the oxygen is the good stuff you want to burn with your extra fuel to get more power. The trouble is that, in any tightly packed engine bay, the air around the filter is going to get hot. And this goes double when the car is stationary – there’s no cold air blasting through the front grille pushing out the warm air. It’s the same reason why you have a radiator fan on your car. Your radiator works extremely well when you’re barrelling along and getting plenty of airflow. When you’re stationary though, that’s when the fan needs to kick in to aid the cooling. It’s the same principle here.

The trouble is that car manufacturers don’t have a choice, they have to fit an air filter and the only way to protect it fully is with an airbox. Just so you’re not sucking in a load of hot air and actually losing power while you’re sitting in traffic. Even so, the airbox they fit will always pose a restriction to the potential airflow.

Performance Cone Filter

Open cone filters do two main jobs. First, they replace the whole airbox to free up that huge restriction. And second, they’re designed to be a shape that tends to offer a larger surface area than a panel filter. More surface area means more filter element with air passing through it, increasing the potential for maximum airflow. Basically, you’re sucking in all the air all the way around the cone, instead of channelling it from one restrictive source.

The first disadvantage of this of course, is that a cone will take a little longer to fit. First you need to rip out the airbox and then slide your cone filter snugly onto the original piping and get it all tightened up. It’s not much longer granted, but even so.

As you may have guessed though, the biggest issue with an open cone will always be the heat soak. When there’s no airflow through the bay, the hot engine will inevitably be heating up the air around your filter. So, you’ll always be at far more risk of sucking in warm air than you are with a panel filter hidden away in an airbox. In this way, a cone filter can not only offer less of a power hike than a panel, but it can actually lose you power over standard. With a basic cone setup, you’re only getting the power advantages when you’re moving along.

What’s the difference between a cone filter and an induction kit?

First of all, a basic cone filter is not a full-on induction kit. An induction kit (often called a cold air intake by the cool kids) will nearly always utilize a cone filter as part of the setup, but it will usually have a whole load of other piping designed to optimize the inlet tract at the same time. Having free-flowing piping straight to the engine comes with even more of an advantage in terms of more efficient airflow. That’s why one of these will cost you a pretty penny compared to a basic cone filter.

Many induction kits will also include a certain amount of heat shielding to help protect the filter from the big hot lump roaring away next door. Shields offer a barrier between the hot bits and the filter itself… although this only works up to a point. Having an open cone filter in any hot engine bay will inevitably mean sucking in more hot air than you would with a closed airbox. That’s why the manufacturer fitted the airbox in the first place, right?

Generally speaking, these kits will also contain a certain amount of cold air ducting, allowing you to direct the air from the front of the vehicle straight to the filter – say, from a grille or bumper vent. Again, all this is amazing while the car is moving, but it won’t do anything for smooth running when you’re sitting stationary. In this way it’s not only about application, but mostly how you use your car.

Filter Placement

The last part to consider is where your cone filter actually sits. Some induction kits will be specifically designed to relocate your filter away from the heat of the engine bay, placing it somewhere (such as in the bumper or grille) where it’s going to pick up the most cold, dense air. It’s a great idea that not only makes a difference to the quality of the air you’re sucking in while moving but keeps the charge temperatures down when you’re in traffic. In fact, as long as there’s no danger of sucking in water from puddles and such, and you don’t mind cleaning your filter a little more often, a remote filter can be a great solution. But again, the engineering is going to have an impact on your wallet.

Verdict: Panel Filter vs Cone Filter

First of all, let’s put the money to one side for a moment. Although a basic panel filter will inevitably be a little cheaper than a basic cone filter upgrade, there’s not enough in it to see you go bankrupt. Both give great bang for your buck… quite literally. If, however, you’re looking into fitting a full-on induction kit which includes intake piping and a heat shield, then price will inevitably be a factor. The only person who can judge if it’s worth the outlay is you. Could the money be better spent elsewhere? Or will you need that extra airflow to support other mods down the line?

The number one rule when making your choice though, is that heat is the enemy. If you’re running a car with a tightly packed bay, and you spend half your day sitting in traffic, in many cases, a performance panel filter will be the most worthwhile upgrade. This means that you’ll get a little extra power, but your filter will remain protected from soaking up all the heat. Here you may want to save the extra cash for another tuning mod to compliment your filter, like a decent exhaust system or a stage one remap. At the very least you’ll be wanting a cone filter that’s placed well away from the engine.

Conversely, if you’re constantly on the move and keeping a good flow of fresh air through the bay (and ideally directed straight to your filter) then a cone filter provides more power. It’s a real no-brainer this one – B-roads, circuits, motorway driving; it doesn’t matter. If you’re always on the gas, you’ll usually get more power form a cone.

Maximum airflow

But, here’s the thing… At some point in the tuning process, the need for maximum airflow will always trump the need for heat protection. The thirst your engine has for oxygen will depend on other upgrades, especially when modifications like de-cats, custom maps and fueling mods come into play. Here you’ll need a cone filter just to get enough air in the engine, so you don’t have a choice. You’ll just have to do what you can in terms of directing cold air, shielding from heat with and clever filter placement.

Then again, if budget isn’t the main concern, you could always go for the best of both worlds with a performance air box kit. Many of the heavy hitters, such as K&N, Pipercross and AEM manufacture performance intake systems that utilize the surface area and free-flowing characteristics of a cone, but place them in a protective airbox that’s optimized for flow.

As with all the best tuning mods, the key is to find the right balance for the gains you’d like to achieve and exactly where you’ll be trying to use all those lovely horsepowers.

Words: Midge Burr 

The post Is a Panel Filter or Cone Filter Best For Your Car? appeared first on Fast Car.

Nothing transforms your interior like a new pair of seats and that’s probably why installing fresh perches has been one of the more popular modifications since around the beginning of time. Whether it’s for practicality, safety on the track, or just all-round awesome looks come show time, swapping ‘em out is something we’ve been doing forever and long may it continue.

So what do you need to know to choose the right seat for your own project? Well, we’re here to help with that…

What do you want in a car seat?

First things first, you have to ask yourself exactly what you need from your new seats and what you’ll be doing with your car. Application is everything here so, if you’re stripping your motor out and going racing, what you’ll be after could be entirely different than if you’re building a comfortable everyday driver where you need to get people in the back.

Aside from looks which, let’s face it, are also vitally important, all modern car seats (both OEM and aftermarket) are designed to strict specifications around four main criteria. They should:

1. Support the occupant’s body under a range of driving conditions.
2. Offer protection and support in the event of an accident.
3. Allow for extended sitting without fatigue on the body’s muscular system.
4. Be contour matched to the vehicle and the occupant without restricting movement.

While seats should be generally effective in all these criteria, many specialist items are designed to perform some of them better than others depending on their application. An OEM seat designed for comfort and extra long sitting periods in a motorway cruiser for example will not be as highly supportive in the corners as a custom designed race seat. Probably why Lewis Hamilton’s F1 car isn’t fitted with a seat from a 1997 Ford Scorpio.

OEM+ car seat options

For the most part here we’ll be talking about specially-designed aftermarket seats but there’s always been OEM+ conversions to consider too. Many manufactures adorn their top models with uprated ‘sports’ items (often from specialist seat manufactures like Cobra or Recaro) that include extra support in the corners and ultimately better looks.

These always make a desirable upgrade for lower spec’d models and will usually be straightforward to fit – they’ll be based on the same model floor pan after all. Golf GTI seats will generally bolt straight into a base model Golf, R32 Skyline GT-R seats will go straight into a R32 GT-S and so on.

There’s also a few weird ones out there too, where seats from different manufacturers will fit straight into other cars. One example is Porsche Boxster seats, these will bolt straight into the Mk1 Audi TT (I know that works because I’ve done it myself). As ever, a spot of web surfing can uncover all sorts of things you never thought possible.

Finally there’s the age-old OEM+ option of ‘getting the bastards in no matter what.’ True it will require a little fettling of the mounts or even the car floor but you can pull off most swaps, if you put your mind to it. We’ve seen everything from delicious Ferrari 360 to downright bonkers TVR Tuscan seats safely installed into a variety of cars over the years. The only limit is your imagination – and your bank account.

Safety first

There are quite literally hundreds of aftermarket seats out there, but unfortunately that includes plenty of cheaply-made knockoffs. Some of these might seem like a bargain, but it’s always worth remembering your seat isn’t just somewhere to perch your backside, it’s a piece of safety equipment. No matter what you’re looking for, it’s important to keep safety in mind, and even more so when it comes to full-on racing seats – choosing the right one could save your life. You can’t put a price on walking away from a big smash, right?

If you’re looking at the second-hand market you’ll want to be certain about the history of the seat you choose. Just like dropping your crash helmet can render it ineffective, the same can be said if you buy a seat that’s already been in an accident. For peace of mind we’d always recommend buying new, and going for the best one you can afford. As for what brand you choose, do your research. If your new seat comes from a manufacturer you’ve actually heard of, that’s a mighty good start.

Configurations

No matter what material the manufacturer uses or the shape of the final seat, there’s basically two different types – the recliner (sometimes called a sports seat) and the fixed-back racing seat (or bucket seat).

Car seat recliners

In the OEM market, unless you’re looking at highly tuned sports cars or special edition 911s, by far the most common are recliners. It’s pretty obvious why, as these work well with standard seatbelts, have adjustable backs for comfort, and most can tilt forward for rear seat access in 3-door hatches. In other words, they’re easy to live with.

Aftermarket recliners have the same virtues, offering versatility both for fast road cars and motors that like to hit the track once in a while. Technology from the leading manufactures is so good nowadays that some recliners are spot-on and perfectly safe for racing – those harness slots aren’t always for show you know. We actually had a set of Takata recliners in our own 350Z Time Attack car and they did the job brilliantly.

Bucket seats

For those in the more hardcore race world, (or at least those who want to look like they are), the purposeful bucket will always be king. Initially developed for professional motorsport use, these seats offer impeccable support to drivers, especially when working alongside a tight set of safety harnesses.

Good quality entry-level bucket seats typically start at a lower price than recliners (which is great for grass-roots and club sport cars) but there’s a massive amount of technology involved in developing higher end models which always comes at a price.

That said, with regards to the use of space-age materials and clever engineering, the spec of some of these modern racing seats can be nothing short of incredible, not to mention lifesaving, so, for many, it really is money well spent.

In a race car, your seat should fit just as snugly as your helmet. For that reason, plenty of professional drivers have their own custom seats measured to ensure they fit – a bit like a tailored Savile Row suit. For us mere mortals, though, it’s usually a case of squeezing into a few and finding which one is most suitable.

FIA Approval

If you’re serious about your racing and would like to compete in the most strictly regulated events, you’ll need a quality bucket seat that conforms to FIA standard 8855-1999. In fact, from a safety point of view, it’s probably best to look for FIA Approval as a matter of course.

The Federation Internationale De L’Automobile is a motorsport governing body which will only give their sign off to products if they pass a barrage of rigorous safety testing. It’s pretty heavy scientific stuff that we haven’t got the pages for here, but you can find out details of exactly how they do it at www.fia.com/sport/homologation

The important thing to know is that seats that conform to this standard will come with an integrated compliance label, usually a sticker (sometimes embroidery) which will contain the manufacturer, serial number, homologation number, and expiry of that particular model.

This official label is what race officials will be looking for when checking your car before going out on track. So don’t go peeling it off.

The other thing to watch out for here is the expiry date. Seats that conform to FIA Standard 8855-1999 are only approved for five years from the year of manufacture. That’s not to say that there’s necessarily anything wrong with them when they expire – just that you won’t be able to use them to race in certain events.

Contrary to popular belief ‘FIA Approved’ doesn’t have to mean ‘bloody expensive’ either – there are many entry-level seats that are built to these standards without breaking the bank.

Shapes and sizes

Whether it’s buckets or recliners you’re after, one thing is universally important – they have to physically fit in your car. For most vehicles on the road that isn’t usually a problem, but it’s always something to bear in mind when choosing a seat for a small hatch, coupe or convertible.

Aftermarket designs come in all shapes and sizes – some motorsport buckets have head restraints and high side bolsters making getting in and out of more restrictive models an absolute nightmare. Even on the track you have to be able to exit your vehicle in under five seconds or they won’t let you race.

Design is important when it comes to recliners too. Like bucket seats, some recliners can have huge supporting shoulders which are great for holding you in, but only if they fit in side-by-side and don’t stop you shutting your door. On the flip side, there are plenty of slimline shoulder designs, low-back, and low-bolstered seats on the market for practicality, ease of access or a spot of retro style. Consider what you’re driving first, and choose your seat wisely.

What about a larger width car seat?

So you’ve overdone it on the Big Macs over the past few years? Don’t worry, you’re not the only one. It’s important (especially in a racing environment), that your seats offer a good degree of comfort and support when you’re strapped in. The fact of the matter is, if you can’t squeeze all the way in, it’s just not safe for you, and consequently anyone else on the tarmac.

Don’t go reaching for the salad just yet though, a few manufacturers cater for the more portly gentlemen by offering wider versions of their most popular designs. Problem solved, big-boy!

Manufacture

The majority of OEM seats, along with most entry-level buckets and recliners comprise of a steel frame overlaid with foam padding and trimmed with cloth, vinyl or leather. Higher-end buckets, and the backs of some posh recliners are made around a sculptured FRP (fibreglass reinforced plastic), carbon fiber or Kevlar shell. This not only looks good, but means that they can be put together at a fraction of the weight of their steel counterparts without compromising on strength.

Once a seat is designed, prototyped and all the patterns made, producing the finished article requires a number of skilled craftsmen at every stage of manufacture. This includes highly trained technicians to weld up the frame (or manufacture the bare shell) cut and stitch the pattern for the outer layer and, of course, fit everything together. For this reason, the very best quality seats are handmade and meticulously checked for quality before they leave the factory.

Get the look

Obviously as important as the performance is the way your new seat will look. It’s not just about the actual shape either, there’s usually a massive variation of trim options available off the shelf, in all sorts of colors and materials, with or without things like harness slots or manufacturer logos.

If you can’t find exactly what you want, or are just looking for the very finest money can buy, firms like UK giant Cobra also offer a bespoke service where you can have your perches made to order and trimmed in just about any material, color and stitching option you can imagine. There’s even the benefit of custom embroidery just like you see on all those pro race seats, special cooling material, color-coded backs or how about some fancy heating elements to keep your botty warm on a cold day? Basically, if you can dream it (and afford it) they can deliver it.

Fitting aftermarket car seats 

So you’ve finally picked your seats – now all you need to do is get them in. It’s not just a case of drilling some holes in the floor though, again, the most important thing to consider is safety.

You need to bolt both the driver and passenger seat to the car securely, using high-tensile hardware. And, if at all possible, through the standard mounting locations which OEMs reinforce at the factory. In some cases (more often than not in a motorsport-derived vehicle) it may be necessary to use mounting locations outside the standard specifications, so reinforcement of the floor by welding in ‘spreader plates’ could be an absolutely essential step.

In the event of an accident, both the mounting hardware and location are put under extreme stress, so everything has to be up to the job. Cross-threaded bolts or even worse, leaving one out, are a massive no no. Not only that, but you’ll probably be needing an MoT and any VOSA-trained tester will quickly spot missing hardware or an insecurely mounted seat landing you a fail. For safety’s sake, get it right first time.

Car seat subframes

So how do you get your new seat and your car married up correctly? If you want to make life easy you’ll be looking for a tailored subframe. This is a rigid steel structure specific to your car model, designed to bolt into the floor through the original mounting locations. If your application needs it, they’ll also have a bracket for safely mounting your OEM seatbelt buckle – a crucial addition if you’re not using road-legal harnesses.

Your standard seats will already have subframes built in. Aftermarket manufacturers will usually keep their versions separate because they need to ensure a single seat design will fi t a multitude of vehicles. Some specialist tailored subframes, particularly in the retro market, also incorporate a tilt mechanism allowing your seats to lean forward at the pull of a leaver. These are particularly useful for fitting low-back fixed-buckets in a 2 or 3-door car where rear seat access may be a problem.

The good news is there are thousands of subframe applications available and they’re designed to transform installing seats from a nightmare weekend of fabricating and welding into a one hour DIY job.

It also makes good sense to purchase yours from the same manufacturer as your seats if possible. The dimensions of the seat-bottom mounting holes can be inconsistent between brands, so sticking to the same one should eliminate any unforeseen alignment problems.

Car seat sliders

Unless you’re ‘static fixing’ a seat for one specific driver (something most common in race cars) most aftermarket installations will also need an added set of sliders. Like with any OEM seat, these mount between the seat and subframe to allow backward and forward adjustment. Even if you’re breaking out the welder and building your own subframes, sliders are pretty much essential in a road car that may need more than one driver – there’s nothing worse than not being able to reach the pedals.

Side mounts

Most aftermarket road seats incorporate reinforced mounting holes in the bottom which bolt directly to the subframe or slider. Others, particularly those of the FIA Approved variety, have their bolt locations on the sides and will need a matching set of side mounts. Designed to allow small adjustments in the pitch angle of the seat, they’re most useful for getting that perfect racing seating position. A comfortable driver is a happy driver and all that.

Airbags

Many modern cars have airbags built into their seats and that’s something to be aware of when swapping to aftermarket items. Generally speaking, when you disconnect these seats from the car’s wiring loom it will illuminate the airbag light on the dash the next time you turn on the ignition. In the UK, that annoying little light is an MoT failure, but that’s by no means the worst of it. On most vehicles, having the airbag light on disables the rest of the system meaning you have no airbags at all.

To keep the system up and running you need to trick your car into thinking it still has the airbags fitted, just like you would when fitting an aftermarket steering wheel. You can achieve this by installing a resistor.

There are some companies that make plug-and-play kits to keep everything nice and simple, but these are pretty rare and usually relatively expensive. So, for the most part, you’ll need to do a bit of Internet pottering to find out the resistance value, before breaking out the soldering iron.

The post Car Seat Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

The idea of an anti-roll bar sounds simple, doesn’t it? The name says it all; it’s a bar that resists body roll. But what should be a straightforward subject is surprisingly complicated, and by altering the front and rear anti-roll bars we can have a massive influence on how a car behaves. Understanding the affects of anti-roll bars is key when you modify a car and start replacing car suspension components in the pursuit of more performance.

We also need to consider other suspension factors such as spring rates and what kind of handling balance we’re trying to achieve. Then stringing that altogether into the perfect setup for the specific application.

Some cars need stiff anti-roll bars. Some need softer bars, while some don’t need any roll bars at all. And there’s no hard-and-fast rule that says ‘cars like this need roll bars like that’. Each car and set of circumstances is different. There are too many variables to cover here, but we’ve covered the main areas to bring you a beginner’s guide and quick taste of what anti-roll bars are all about.

The roll axis is the point about which the car rolls when cornering

Centre of Gravity

Before we start looking at the anti-roll bars themselves, lets recap on some basic physics. Centre of gravity (CoG) is an entire topic worth discussing all on its own. However, we can’t really talk about anti-roll bars without first understanding what the CoG of our car is. As wells as how it affects the handling. In short, the CoG is the center point of all the car’s mass. It’s the point at which all cornering forces act, which is why we need to look at it in relation to anti-roll bars.

A lower CoG is beneficial when it comes to handling performance. It results in less lean or body roll when cornering, and there are a few things we can do to lower the CoG on our cars. The most obvious is to lower the ride height. This lowers all the car’s mass closer to the ground. Lowering can have knock-on effects with other geometry settings such as the roll centers (we’ll come onto that in a minute). Other modifications to lower CoG include removing weight from higher up. Removing heavy glass sunroofs with a lightweight roof is an example of this.

Most aftermarket roll bars are hollow to make them lighter

Hollow vs Solid Anti-Roll Bars

There are two main types of anti-roll bar construction: solid bars or hollow tubes. If you had a solid bar and a tube of the same diameter, the bar would have a greater torsional stiffness. But only marginally. This is because the inner part of the bar does very little to increase torsional stiffness. What it is very good at, though, is increasing weight.

Therefore, many performance ARB upgrades are hollow to reduce weight, but have a greater diameter to increase torsional stiffness. American suspension specialist Hotchkis posted some of its test results in a video online: the 35mm hollow ARB was 19 per cent stiffer yet 27 per cent lighter than a popular solid 32mm bar.

Roll Centers

Other considerations we need to be aware of before looking at anti-roll bars are the roll centers and roll axis of our car. Again, this is a complex subject and something that race teams spend many hours calculating and adjusting. On our road and track cars there’s not too much we can do to alter the roll centers, but it is something we need to be aware of when choosing the right characteristics of any anti-roll bar we want to fit.

The roll center is the point about which the car rolls during a corner; it should be on the centerline of the car from left to right, but the height will depend on the rest of the suspension geometry. The roll axis is the line drawn between the front and rear roll centers; on front-wheel-drive cars the front roll center will be lower than the rear and so the roll axis will incline towards the rear of the car, or on rear-wheel-drive cars the rear roll center tends to be lower and so the roll axis will decline towards the rear of the car.

Whereas the roll centers look at individual axles, the roll axis gives us a much better picture of how the car behaves overall; a car with an inclining roll axis (like most front-wheel-drive cars) will have the tendency to lift the inside rear wheel during cornering, as the weight of the car is ‘rolling’ around an axis that lifts at the rear and drops at the front – although this does depend on the roll stiffness of any anti-roll bars fitted and the spring rates used, which we will cover later.

Older RWD cars tend to have a declining roll axis, which is why they lift the front wheel during hard cornering

Weight Transfer

When in a corner, the tires are effectively pulling the car body in towards the inside of the corner. And if we revisit our school physics lessons for a second, you might remember Einstein’s third law: every action has an equal and opposite reaction. Because of this, there’s an equal but opposite force pushing the body outwards (away from the corner), acting on the CoG. In turn, as the CoG is higher than the roll axis, you get a rotational force causing the body to roll.

What this means for your car, and importantly your tires, is that the CoG moves more over the outside tire. This increases the vertical load on the outside tire and reduces the same on the inside tire, otherwise known as weight transfer.

As you might expect, more vertical load pushing the tire into the ground allows the tire to provide more lateral force, or grip. But – and this is a big but – if you double the vertical force on a tire you do not double the grip available. This means that if you have more weight transfer, the total grip available across the axle is lower; the inside tire loses more grip than gained by the outside tire.

This might lead you to think that body roll is a good thing, minimizing weight transfer. But it does have its downsides: as it takes longer for the car to change direction, the car’s agility reduces. Allowing the suspension to move to the extremes of its travel (as it would do in a big roll motion) can have serious negative effects on the camber and toe, and other geometry settings of the wheel alignment too.

How Do Anti-Roll Bars Work?

So, how do we control body roll? It’s easiest to imagine anti-roll bars as three component parts all joined together. The main ‘bar’ fixes to the body/chassis of the car with special mounts that allow it to rotate freely but hold it steady, and on each end there is a cantilever that attaches – often via drop-links – to the rest of the suspension system.

The anti-roll bar connects to both the left and right-side wheels. Its torsional properties act as a spring to resist body roll; when a car corners, weight transfers to the outside wheel, which tries to rise up into the wheel arch. At the same time, the inside wheel wants to move out of the wheel arch. By connecting both sides together, an ARB resists this twisting motion and stops this from happening – transferring more load to the outside tire to push the body back upright again, which in turn increases weight transfer. The stiffer the ARB, the more weight transfers to the outside.

An anti-roll bar does very little when in a straight line (unless we’re talking about drag cars launching at the start line, which we’ll cover separately later); both left and right wheels are subject to the same bumps and undulations, and the ARB simply rotates in its mounts as the suspension compresses and rebounds. But during cornering, the ARB is subjected to a twisting force, at which point it works together with the springs and dampers to control the car.

Rally cars need very different ARBs from track cars

Anti-Roll Bars For Different Applications

Different cars doing different jobs will require very different ARB settings to perform at their best. A stiffly-sprung circuit racer with big, fat, slick tires and lots of lateral cornering forces might want a very stiff ARB setting to keep everything nice and flat through the corners.

In contrast, a rally car that needs to have much softer suspension with a much larger travel to accommodate all the bumps of rough terrain would need to address the body roll issue completely differently; a stiff anti-roll bar would prevent the suspension from doing its job by restricting the ability of each corner to move up and down independently.

In these applications, it requires a softer ARB setting, and the body roll/weight transfer is managed via the spring rates – using things like dual-rate coilovers with a softer initial rate to absorb the rough terrain and then a stiffer second rate to help control the body roll and weight transfer through corners.

We said earlier that anti-roll bars don’t work in a straight line, but that’s not strictly true. An ARB doesn’t work when there isn’t any twisting action applied to it, but when you dump the clutch at the start of a drag strip there are a lot of torsional forces applied, without even turning the steering wheel, and an ARB will help resist this twisting motion as you accelerate.

Roll Stiffness

Roll stiffness refers to the amount the anti-roll bars resist the twisting force it’s subjected to during cornering. A stiffer bar will resist the twisting action more than a softer one. Generally, this stiffness comes from the cross-sectional area (or thickness) of the bar. Going back to school again very briefly, you’ll recall your maths teacher telling you that the area of a circle is ‘pi times the radius squared’. This means that even a small diameter increase – typically between 3 and 6mm larger – can have a big effect on the stiffness of an ARB.

Many aftermarket anti-roll bars available and will offer a level of adjustment, usually by way of having multiple connecting points for the drop links. These series of holes effectively alter the length of the cantilever (remember our three component parts?) and therefore alter the stiffness of the ARB; the longer the cantilever, the less effort required to move it, or the softer the setting. The shorter the cantilever, the stiffer the setting.

Some motorsport applications make use of a different design, known as bladed roll bars, which offer much more adjustment and levels of fine tuning.

Bladed ARBs offer a much finer degree of adjustment

Bladed Anti-Roll Bars

Bladed-style anti-roll bars feature on many race cars. Going back to our three main components as we stated earlier, the main bar still fixes to the car in the same way as ever, but now the cantilevers on each end that connect that ‘bar’ to the wheels have a bladed shape. This allows for a much greater window of adjustment than simply having various mounting holes to alter the effective length of the cantilever, and it allows for a much more compact and neater installation in many applications too.

The torsional strength of the main bar can be easily swapped for a stiffer or softer bar, but key to the design is the bladed shape of the cantilevers, which allows for significantly different levels of stiffness simply by rotating the blades through 90 degrees. When the blade is horizontal it is in its softest setting, allowing some deflection in the blade itself before acting upon the torsion bar. Rotate that through 90 degrees and now the (vertical) blade is in its stiffest setting, allowing much less deflection in the blade before it starts acting upon the torsion bar.

These blades mount within spherical bearings that allow adjustment through the full 90 degrees, and often attach to a cable system that allows the driver to adjust them from the cockpit while driving – ideal for changing the handling setup during a race, when it starts to rain, for example.

Anti-roll bars increase weight transfer to the outside wheel

Making Adjustments To Your Anti-Roll Bars

Unless you have some quite clever simulation models going on, adjusting your anti-roll bars will mostly be down to time behind the wheel and feel for changes. Don’t just assume the stiffest ARB you can find, or the stiffest setting, will give the best results, though – the whole package needs to work together with the springs and dampers for optimal results. In fact, it’s important to note that if you’ve already fitted an adjustable ARB and change from softer road-spec springs to stiffer race-spec coilovers, you’ll probably need to soften the ARB settings too.

If the car has too much oversteer through a corner, you can either stiffen the front ARB or soften the rear ARB to dial out the oversteer characteristic. If the car tends to understeer through a corner, you would either soften the front ARB or stiffen the rear ARB – or a combination of both.

As a rough rule of thumb, front-wheel drive cars will benefit from a stiffer rear ARB (to reduce understeer), while rear-wheel drive cars generally benefit from a stiffer front ARB (to reduce oversteer), and all-wheel drive cars can be either: if it understeers, fit a stiffer rear ARB; if it oversteers, fit a stiffer front ARB.

Poly bushes help eliminate unwanted movement without increasing NVH

Anti-Roll Bar Mounts & Bushes

An ARB mounts to the body or chassis of the car, and a strong, positive mounting location is required in order for the ARB to work at its optimum. Traditionally, most factory mountings use rubber suspension bushes; these are cheap to mass-produce and keep the NVH levels low, but they do perish over time and can allow for excessive movement under heavy loads – neither of which are particularly useful for performance.

Replacing rubber bushes with polyurethane is a great upgrade for many road and track cars, as the firmer material reduces unwanted flex, doesn’t wear out, and is still compliant enough for regular road use. Also, stock mounting brackets fail on some applications – not surprising when you consider the huge forces that go through the roll bar when smashing over kerbs on a racetrack at speed – which is why some roll bars come with, or have the option for, uprated mounting brackets for added peace of mind.

Race cars take any movement out of the system altogether with spherical bearings, meaning no energy is lost through unwanted movements, but these can increase NVH and aren’t as well suited to the dirt and grime of regular road use.

Lower CoG helps reduce body roll

How Stiff Should Anti-Roll Bars Be?

There will be a limit to how stiff you can go with an ARB, though, and that all comes back to weight transfer. The easiest way to visualise this is to imagine a hot hatch or front-wheel-drive race car doing the famous ‘cocking a wheel’ trick. Front-engine, front-wheel-drive cars are usually prone to understeer due to their weight distribution and tyre loading. As such, they run a stiff rear ARB to help balance the car, which means the rear suspension is so stiff that 100 per cent of the weight is transferred – leaving no weight on the inside rear wheel and allowing it to lift off the ground. Obviously, if this is happening, fitting a stiffer roll bar at the rear won’t reduce any more understeer as all of the weight has been transferred. The only option in this situation is to soften the front ARB (or spring rate).

One adjustment will always have a knock-on effect elsewhere, and finding the optimum setup will require some time trying different settings and understanding how the car is behaving, and more importantly, how any changes will affect that behaviour.

The post Anti-Roll Bars Guide: How They Can Improve Handling appeared first on Fast Car.

The main purpose of an uprated clutch is to replace the standard item which can’t handle the level of torque the car is producing. It generally depends on the car and driver. A hard used, but less powerful engine will wear its clutch out far faster than a more powerful engine driven gently. Clutch wear can be as extreme as slipping instantly under load. Or it can occur when you use full power for short periods including drag racing, drifting, or during fast road use.

Standard clutches are designed so that even the least talented motorist can drive smoothly. But the payoff is a shorter life and inability to handle extra power. Many old school supercars for example, struggle to launch hard more than a few times without destroying the clutch for this exact reason. But if the manufacturer had installed a clutch that could effectively handle the power under hard use, it would be too difficult for most owners to use.

Read on through our clutch guide and you’ll become an expert in the field!

What is a car clutch and what does it do?

In simple terms, a clutch is the component that connects the engine to the transmission to drive the wheels. It works by using a friction disc (connected to the gearbox) pressed by a sprung pressure plate against a flywheel (connected to the engine) to transfer drive between the two. Disengaging the clutch – by pressing the clutch pedal – separates the friction discs and the flywheel. This breaks that connection between engine and gearbox. In turn, this allows you to change gear or stop altogether, with the engine running yet not providing drive at the wheels.

Are clutches all the same basic design?

Most automotive clutches use the same principle; some form of spinning friction disc clamped to a flywheel by a pressure plate to transfer power. But the types of friction materials used, the size and design of the discs themselves, and the number of friction discs used in any platform or application can vary.

The original clutch is adequate for a standard car. However, once you begin to increase power and torque, you will need a clutch with stronger pressure plate and more aggressive and hard-wearing friction materials.

What are clutches made of?

The outer pressure plates are generally a sprung-metal design, and the clutch friction discs themselves will use various friction materials depending on the application and power handling. The most common materials fall under the following:

Organic

Smooth, durable, usually quieter, and easier on the opposing mating surface. Organic materials are common but do suffer in very high-performance applications due to their intolerance to excessive heat and their shorter lifespan.

Carbon/Kevlar

Similar clamping properties to organic materials, with smooth operation but able to withstand increased heat much better when mated to a high-rated pressure plate.

Ceramic

Offering the highest friction co-efficient, the ceramic material itself provides more grip – which often means you don’t need such a high clamping force. The flip side is that ceramic materials wear the flywheel surface, sometimes causing shudder and a harsher feel. Mainly for competition use and applications where you are significantly increasing the stock power output.

How do aftermarket clutches differ to OEM ones?

OEM clutch kits work with the vehicle’s factory power output and most will begin to fail if you substantially increase that through tuning. Performance clutches (like those Helix produces) are available in different ratings to be able to work at much higher power and torque levels, meaning whatever your car’s power or driving style, there will be a clutch available to suit.

Also, many performance clutches are lighter than stock (especially when combined with a lightweight flywheel), meaning less rotational mass for the engine to turn, equating to freer revving and lower transmission losses.

Why, or when, would you need to upgrade your clutch?

It is worthwhile upgrading your clutch if you are planning a considerable increase in power and torque. For example, boost increases, re-mapping and engine builds will place more strain on the whole drivetrain and wear out a stock clutch more quickly. A performance clutch, on the other hand, is durable enough to cope.

The options available to you will depend on your level of power upgrade and intended usage.

How important is it to get the right clutch?

Aside from making sure you get a clutch that physically fits your transmission, you also need to consider your power and torque levels, plus your driving style and how you intend to use the car. There is no point simply buying the strongest clutch available if you are not going to have the power to warrant it, but under-specifying your clutch can lead to it wearing out prematurely and not being fit for purpose.

You’ll also need to keep in mind that pedal weight and ease of modulation are also a concern if you want to enjoy your car on the street, or want it to drive well and be useable in traffic –whereas for pure race applications an aggressive, snatchy clutch is less of a problem as long as it can take the constant abuse and hard-launch starts. The best thing to do is speak to a specialist like Helix Autosport.

What causes car clutches to fail?

Clutches are durable, but heavy abuse or increased power/torque will mean they wear much more quickly and need replacing more often. If the clutch slips, the friction disc could need replacing. You can tell if your clutch is slipping by flooring the throttle in a high gear at low engine revs and watching if the revs rise without a corresponding increase in speed. If this is the case, your clutch is on its way out. Clutches can wear out from repeated slipping such as stop-starting on inclines or from hard-launching the car with high revs.

What other mods should you consider when uprating your clutch?

You should consider upgrading the flywheel, and always replace the release bearing and flywheel bolts when installing a new clutch. Look for three or four piece kits that include a friction plate, cover assembly, release bearing and flywheel when applicable. This can save you money over buying the parts individually.

Are there any downsides to uprated clutches?

With single-disc clutches, driveability (especially in traffic) tends to suffer when you move to more aggressive designs such as paddle clutches This is because of their snatchy, all-or-nothing nature, which means useful clutch slip (to aid modulation when engaging) is pretty much non-existent.

The solution can be to use multiple friction plates. This increases the torque capacity of the overall clutch system but doesn’t necessarily have the snatchy bite and hard pedal feel associated with a traditional race-spec paddle clutch; this mainly occurs when your vehicle is running maximum power.

Multi-plate clutch upgrades are fast becoming more common for tuned road cars these days, because power levels can be incredibly high but owners still have a demand for usability on the road.

What makes up a clutch? 

A clutch is fairly simple with three main components in a single plate example. It basically consists of two surfaces; one connected to the engine and one connected to the gearbox, and a central friction disc that transmits torque between the two.

Flywheel

This is the part that is bolted to the crankshaft of the engine and therefore spins at engine speed at all times. With the clutch engaged, the flywheel friction plate and the clutch plate press together, sending torque from the flywheel to the gearbox. Different weights of flywheel are available, and although these are mostly used for other performance reasons, a lighter flywheel will also have an increased clamping effect. We’ll explain the effects of flywheel weight later on in this feature.

Clutch plate

This is the part connected to the gearbox. When the clutch engages, the clutch plate is pushed against the flywheel to transmit power between them. There are various materials and styles of clutch plate friction pads depending on the use of the car and the torque the clutch is transmitting. More on that later in this guide.

Clutch cover

This is the part that pushes the clutch plate on to the flywheel when you engage the clutch. It has sprung metal fingers arranged in a circular fashion facing inwards that give the clamping force that helps stop the clutch plate and flywheel from slipping. An uprated clutch usually has an uprated cover which increases the clamping force of the clutch cover fingers. The downside of more clamping force is a stiffer clutch pedal, which can range from slightly stiffer to something barely useable on the road.

Paddle clutches

The majority of uprated clutches are known as a paddle clutch. A paddle clutch, rather than having 360 degrees of friction material like a standard clutch, segments into sections, usually four or six, but other combinations are available. These are commonly known as a four/six paddle clutch, or sometimes four/six puck in the USA. The reason for this segmented design is to help with heat dissipation. With increased power you are more likely to overheat the clutch, potentially warping it or simply ruining the friction material. Making it less effective.

Sprung plate or not?

Almost all uprated clutch plates for road cars, even ones intended for enormous power levels, are ‘sprung’. This means they have springs between the centre plate and the friction pads to dampen the shock load as the clutch engages. This makes driving it on the road, where the clutch is constantly being engaged and disengaged, much smoother than without springs. On race cars smooth clutch operation isn’t so important so these are generally unsprung to give the most positive action possible, less weight, and less potential failure points.

Multi-plate clutches

Multi-plate clutches are commonplace these days on tuned cars. They have more than one clutch plate with metal plates sandwiched between them. Using multiple plates spreads the load and increases heat dissipation, giving increased grip for the overall diameter of the clutch. This means a twin plate using friction materials that are more road-friendly can handle similar levels of torque to a single plate race-only sintered clutch for example. In race cars they use multi-plate clutches to save weight and rotating mass by using the smallest diameter clutch possible with a huge number of plates. Conversely, cars with very large diameter clutches as standard, V8s for example, tend to not need multi-plate clutches until a much higher power level than most four cylinder engines with smaller clutch diameters.

Flywheel weight

There’s a lot of talk about the effects of a lightweight flywheel, but to put it simply, on a high performance car there are many benefits. The first thing to remember is as it’s a rotating mass you are not simply removing 5kg. The effect is magnified by the speed of rotation and the gear ratios, meaning it can be the equivalent of a 150kg weight saving in a low gear, though in high gears it can be less than 10%. From a performance point of view it is why cars tend to rev faster and more freely with a lighter flywheel, especially in lower gears and of course out of gear. From a clutch point of view this lighter rotating mass makes it easier for the clutch plate to grip it, further increasing the clutches’ performance.

As ever with tuning, there is a downside, and that is a slight drop in drivability due to this decreased clutch mass as the revs drop more easily, making it harder to drive smoothly and easier to stall. Sometimes a slightly higher idle speed stops a car with a very light flywheel from stalling when the clutch is disengaged.

Hydraulic or cable operated clutch?

The vast majority of cars these days come with a hydraulically operated clutch. But there are still many popular cars with a cable clutch, Cosworths and Mk2 Golf GTIs for example, and this can cause problems when going for a high performance clutch. In a similar way to brakes without servo assistance need to pushing harder to operate, a clutch with cable operation is much harder to use than the equivalent clutch with hydraulic assistance. With organic clutches and standard covers it isn’t an issue, but once the cover is stiffer you need a strong leg to operate the clutch. Single plate clutches are just about driveable on a cable clutch, but anything more will need a hydraulic clutch conversion to maintain any hope of road drivability.

What are the most important things to look out for when buying an uprated clutch?

Look for a reputable brand or supplier. That way you know you will have great customer service and back-up should you have any problems.

You really do get what you pay for. That cheap alternative may end up costing you a lot more in the long run if it fails to live up to expectations.

It’s also worth considering professional installation. Not just because it’s a big job and requires lots of tools and equipment, but also because the alignment can be more difficult than you may think. The right tools really do make the world of difference when it comes to installation.

The post Clutch Guide: When & Why You Should Upgrade Yours appeared first on Fast Car.

We bet most of you have either owned a turbo car, or would love to own one, but we’re sure a lot of you aren’t too confident on what to do to make them faster once you’ve got one. And fair enough, it’s complicated!

To teach you everything in exact detail would take an age, but to give you some idea, here is our guide to tuning turbo engines.

Tuning Turbo Engines: The Basics

Turbos

It may well resemble two giant snail shells, that’s true, but it’s what gives you all that lovely boost you’re after. Fitting a different turbo can give you more power, and there are various ways of going about it. Some replacement turbos could be the same size as your current one, but are simply stronger and capable of running more boost pressure without failing.

If you fit a turbo with a larger exhaust housing it will give less exhaust back pressure which will increase your power, but at the expense of some low rpm power (increased lag).

If you go for a larger compressor but the standard size exhaust housing, however, this can give more power but the small exhaust housing can be restrictive at high boost.

The most common uprated turbos are the ones that have larger compressor and exhaust housing, and while you lose a little low down power with these, you gain a lot of power overall.

Intercoolers

One side effect of air going into the turbo is that it heats up, often to three times the heat going into the turbo.

The hotter air is, the less dense it is, so the lower the proportion of oxygen content, which in turn means less power. Another side effect of hot air is that it increases the chances of detonation, and that’s seriously bad for engine life. To cool the inlet charge (the air entering the engine) you need an intercooler, which works in the same way as a radiator, but with air running through it, not water.

Many factory intercoolers are inefficient, so an upgrade is a good move. As a general guide, the bigger and more in the line with the airflow, the better. This is an important upgrade when tuning turbo engines.

Boost Pressure

Boost is the key to your engine’s power, but will also be the key to its destruction if you’re not careful. You get more power from upping the boost because you’re forcing more air into your engine. Combined with extra fuel to match, this results in loads more power and torque.

There is no such thing as too much boost, just too much for YOUR engine and turbo. Some racecars have run over 4bar (nearly 60psi!) boost, and that was fine for them, but that seems to give some people the idea they can bash on a bleed valve and wind up their turbo. It absolutely flies for a few moments, then BOOM, new engine please mother.

Most turbo cars run about 7-10psi boost as standard (though some newer turbo cars run over 15psi as standard), and with some simple fueling improvements (usually a replacement ECU chip) and boost upped another 5-8psi, the performance becomes improved hugely and safely for very little extra cash.

With further upgrades most engines can take even more boost, but don’t rush into it without knowing exactly what you’re getting into.

Water injection

On some cars fitting a decent sized intercooler is a nigh-on impossible job, so some people use water injection to cool the inlet charge instead. It works by injecting a fine mist of water into your inlet pipe when on boost. The evaporating water absorbs loads of the heat from the pressurized air, bringing the temperature down to a safe level.

Nitrous

Nitrous is a good power booster on any engine, but on a turbo engine it has two other uses as well. It’s mega cold, so when injected it cools the boost pressure hugely, far more than an intercooler and water injection could, increasing power far more than it would on a non-turbo engine.

It’s also great for spooling big turbos up. If you have a massive turbo that doesn’t kick in till high rpm, injecting nitrous at low rpm will bring it on boost far faster.

There’s a lot of myths floating about around nitrous though. Dispel them by reading this nitrous guide.

Screamer pipe

A screamer pipe is an unsilenced exhaust that is separate from the main exhaust system and is fed via external wastegate/s. Exhaust gas only goes down the screamer once maximum boost has been achieved, then it gets incredibly loud; it screams.

An advantage of a screamer is that less gas will be going down your main exhaust system. The downside is the jet like noise it can produce, so you may fail track day noise limits. It’s a cool addition nonetheless when tuning turbo engines.

Fueling

Getting the fueling right is incredibly important on a turbocharged car; it makes the difference between a quick car, and a quick car that blows up/melts.

Turbo cars generally need to run richer than normally aspirated motors to stay safe, and you will need uprated injectors and fuel pumps when you seriously increase the power.

If you just turn up the boost without making the appropriate fueling adjustments, you’re asking for trouble. So make sure you sort it out!

Fuel octane

When you buy an imported car get to a good rolling road to make sure the fueling is safe. If you don’t you could go melting pistons, as they use higher octane fuel in Japan than the UK.

High octane fuel is the friend of turbo cars, as it’s much more resistant to det (detonation), enabling cars to run higher boost safely. 98ron or better fuel is pretty vital. You can get race fuel with up to, and even over 110ron, but it’s mega expensive and not available at any petrol stations we know. As such, you’ll usually only see it in race cars.

Air filters

As with non-turbo cars, you’ve got to be careful of the positioning of your air filter; if it’s sucking in really hot air it can lose you power, so try your best to keep it away from hot engine parts, especially without bonnet vents. As important as position though, is it being unrestrictive. A good filter setup can give good gains and can speed up the time the car takes to come on boost.

Another change when fitting a large cone filter is a louder induction noise, which is always a nice bonus!

Pre-ignition / detonation

Pinking or det is the main killer for modified turbo engines, and is what blows head gaskets and destroys pistons. Worst of all, you can’t usually tell it’s happening!

When the heat and pressure inside the combustion chamber is so great that the fuel/air mix ignites before the spark plug fires, it’s called detonation. The resulting explosion causes sudden massive pressures and high combustion temperatures. In severe cases it can destroy an engine in an instant.

The main cause of det is the engine running too lean (not enough fuel) for the boost the car was running, or too much ignition advance.

To avoid det it’s vitally important to get your car’s fueling and ignition setup by an expert when you do any engine mods, especially when increasing boost.

Dump Valves

There are frequent discussions on forums about whether dump valves (also called blow-off valves) do anything other than make a nice noise. Some purists believe they’re a waste of time, but in reality there’s no denying that they can, and do, lengthen the life of a turbo. Most OE manufacturers fit recirculating versions which are quiet in operation. Aftermarket dump (to atmosphere) valves make the characteristic ‘tssssccchhh’ sound as the air escapes as you come off the throttle.

The theory behind dump valves is that they stop the turbo from stalling when you close the throttle, by opening a valve to let excess air escape. As the turbo continues spinning, it will then come up to speed/boost quicker, when the throttle is reapplied, and so improve throttle response. The more boost you run, the more effective a dump valve will become. But even if you’re only running a standard turbo you can still enjoy the sound effects a dump valve provides.

Wastegates

The wastegate is a valve that vents the exhaust gas from the manifold to the exhaust without passing through the turbo first. By allowing some exhaust gas straight into the exhaust rather than through the turbo it regulates the boost and prevents the turbo from spinning too fast.

All petrol turbo cars have a wastegate of some sort. Most cars come with one that’s built into the exhaust housing on the turbo. Many bigger turbos tend to need a separate, external wastegate fitted to the exhaust manifold.

The only time you’ll need to fit a bigger wastegate is if you’ve got a really big turbo and want the option of running low boost. A high flowing wastegate will allow lots of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbo.

Head Gaskets

Head gaskets (which are sandwiched between the head and the block) are probably the most common thing to fail on turbo cars – but they need not fail half as much as they do, if you do things properly.

Truth be told, head gaskets are deliberately made to be the weakest link in an engine, so if anything goes seriously wrong the head gasket should blow before anything more expensive does, such as your pistons or block! What makes head gaskets blow is cylinder pressure. If it’s too high for the head gasket to take, it blows, but there are ways of reducing the chance of this happening.

An uprated head gasket and bolts is one option, but the most important thing is to make sure your engine is set up properly and doesn’t detonate, because when detonation occurs, the cylinder pressures will blow a head gasket in no time – much sooner than extra boost on its own will. Stronger, uprated head gaskets are available for cars running serious boost levels.

Engine Management

You’ve got to get fueling and ignition (and boost) spot on, and on any modern car that’s down to the engine management system. Any significant changes to the engine need adjustments to the management to get maximum power, drivability, and most importantly, reliability from your engine.

Aftermarket engine management systems often have other trick features for turbo cars as well, such as anti-lag, boost control and so on. Definitely a worthwhile investment if big power and long life is your aim.

Exhausts

If you fit a huge bore exhaust to a non-turbo engine it can often lose you low down power and torque, but fit one on a turbo car, and it really is the bigger the better!

Ideally you want zero backpressure in your turbo car’s exhaust, so a large bore (2.5in, often 3in+ on big power cars) exhaust from the turbo back will maximize your power and response. Large-bore downpipes have been known to bring the boost in much sooner than standard on some cars with restrictive exhausts.

Compression Ratios

The compression ratio is basically how much the fuel/air mix is squeezed (compressed) by the piston before it is ignited. If you compress the air/fuel mix too much it can ignite on its own – this is detonation, something which is very bad for your engine.

Once you start running big boost you will need to drop the compression to keep the cylinder pressures at a sensible level, and avoid detonation occurring. That’s done generally with low compression pistons. The common myth about low compression engines being laggy is untrue; compression ratio has little relevance to what rpm the boost comes in.

Lower compression does give slightly lower power off boost power, but no small capacity car is powerful at low rpm, so it’s not a real issue.

Uprated internals

The exact moment when you need stronger internals (and no, that’s not the moment your current engine explodes) depends on the car, but forged pistons are the main upgrade on turbo cars, as they can handle much higher temps and are more resistant to detonation.

As with head gaskets, the life of your internals will be massively lengthened by your car running the correct fueling and ignition timing, because without detonation, your engine is under far less stress. A great addition when chasing big power figures when tuning your turbo engines.

Headwork/Cams

Headwork and aftermarket cams are nowhere near as vital as on non-turbo engines because turbos force air in under pressure so the head port size and valves opening lift/duration isn’t as big an issue.

Most engines can achieve around twice the standard power while using the standard head and cam(s) so don’t be in a massive hurry to change things!

Unlike some mods when tuning turbo engines that have no downsides, head and cam work often loses you low down power, so don’t rush into them until you are sure you need them.

The post Beginner’s Guide To Tuning Turbo Engines appeared first on Fast Car.

As we all know, the right aftermarket alloy wheels can make a modified car. Likewise, fit the wrong ones and you’ll undo all the previous hard work that’s gone into making the car look and perform better. But with the right rims in place, you can improve the overall appearance of your car. You can also make significant improvements to the way it handles, accelerates and brakes.

Wheel design has much more of an impact on performance than many people give credit for. Everything from the car’s unsprung weight to the cooling efficiency of your brakes, to the geometry of your suspension setup, is affected by the wheels you fit. Therefore, fitting the right rims is essential for peak performance. Let’s take a closer look at exactly what’s involved when changing your alloy wheels.

Your Guide To Alloy Wheels

Sizes & Fitment – What Is PCD?

Let’s start with the most obvious aspects. Diameter is fairly self-explanatory and refers to the outside diameter of the rim. Width is equally self-explanatory but is actually measured from inside lip to inside lip, not the overall outside measurement. PCD refers to the bolt pattern of the wheel, and ultimately which cars it will fit. The center bore of a wheel is the diameter of the hole in the back that fits onto the flange on the hub.

Larger diameter wheels are considered more aesthetically pleasing than smaller rims. However, the primary reason they are used is often due to the fact that bigger wheels are needed to go over bigger braking systems. Similarly, wider wheels look more aggressive and fill the car’s arches better. However, the main advantage is that they allow you to fit a wider tire for increased grip levels.

The PCD and center bore refer to fitment. PCD stands for ‘pitch circle diameter’. It is the diameter of the circumference of the center line of the drilling holes. Imagine drawing a perfect circle that goes to the center of all the bolt holes, then measure the diameter of the circle you’ve just drawn. That’s the PCD.

The center bore of a wheel is the diameter of the hole in the back that fits onto the flange on the hub. Most modern wheels are hub-centric. This means that the center bore will fit tightly onto the hub, transferring the load onto that component. With this setup, vibration is massively reduced. The studs or nuts do nothing other than hold the wheels on. It’s not uncommon for mass-produced aftermarket wheels to feature a larger-than-required center bore size, which is then shimmed back to the required size using plastic spigot rings.

Offsets On Alloy Wheels

The offset of a wheel not only dictates whether or not it will physically fit a particular application, it is also crucial to the handling properties of a car. Although it can sometimes confuse people, offset is quite straightforward. The easiest way to understand it is to draw an imaginary line directly down the centerline of the wheel. If the hub mounting face is directly on this line, the wheel has a zero offset. This is measured as an ET number, in this case ET0.

If the mounting face is nearer the outside face of the wheel, the offset is positive. Whereas if the mounting face is nearer the inside edge of the wheel, the offset is negative. The offset is measured in mm, as the distance between the centerline and the mounting face. For example; an ET45 wheel has the mounting face offset from the centerline by 45mm, towards the outside face of the wheel. An ET-15 wheel has the mounting face offset from the centerline by 15mm, this time nearer to the inside edge of the wheel.

Changing the Offset

Changing the offset of your wheels can have a huge effect on the way the car looks and handles. Most people opt for a wider offset to increase the overall track width and for the aesthetics of a wheel that really fills the arches. But the standard wheels will be designed to work with the car’s suspension geometry. This would have been extensively tested and developed to dial out any unwanted characteristics such as bump steer, understeer or torque-steer issues. By changing the offset – and therefore altering this geometry – you can introduce those issues back onto the car.

In an ideal world you’d always look to increase wheel width equally either side of the centerline to ensure the offset remains the same. However, this is not always possible when you have things such as brake caliper clearance, damper positioning, or simply the size of the wheelarch to contend with. In these cases, it comes down to a compromise between wheel width and available offsets.

Casting is the most common method for producing alloy wheels

Cast Alloy Wheels

Another crucial factor for performance and handling is how the wheel is constructed. Some motorsport wheels are made from various exotic alloys such as magnesium or even composites like carbon fiber. However, for most applications, wheels are generally made from aluminum alloys.

The exact content of the alloy can be altered to change its properties, such as making it softer or harder. That being said, the biggest differences are usually found in the way the wheel is made. Traditionally, alloy wheels are cast. This process involves pouring the molten alloy into a mold and allowing it to cool. Once cooled, the mold is opened, and the cast wheel removed. There is an alternative casting process called negative pressure casting, which works in a similar way. Rather then pour the molten alloy into the mold, it is drawn up into the mold using a high-pressure vacuum. This eliminates the trapped gas that can sometimes occur as a result of the gravity casting process.

Flow Formed Wheels

A more recent technique is a process called flow forming. It sits neatly in between the casting and forging processes. It produces a wheel that is lighter and stronger than a traditional cast alloy wheel but not as expensive as a forged wheel.

The process of flow forming involves spinning the wheel after it has been cast, with pressure then being applied to the inner barrel of the wheel while it is spinning. This stretches and compresses the alloy, increasing the wheel’s tensile strength and shock resistance. The finished wheel is lighter and stronger than a traditional cast alloy and has a higher load capacity too.

Forged Alloy Wheels

Forging doesn’t involve melting the alloy to a liquid state. Instead, the process uses intense heat (to make the alloy malleable enough) and enormous pressures to effectively push the alloy ingot into the shape of a wheel.

One of the main advantages of the forging process is the way it affects the alloy material’s grain structure. The starting ingot would have been cast. As such, the grain structure will be non-directional. Effectively, the grain structure will be as it landed when it was poured during the casting process.

But with the huge pressures of the forging process pushing the material in the direction we want it to be, we cause this grain structure to line-up to provide increased strength. It also means that the grain structure can be forced to run from the center of the wheel outwards, along the length of the wheel’s spokes and not all in the same direction (top to bottom, for example). This is part of the reason why a forged alloy wheel can be as much as 300 per cent stronger than a regular cast alloy wheel.

When the forging process has forced the alloy into a wheel-shaped blank, the blank can be machined into the final product.

Split-Rims

Split-rim designs originate from motorsport in the Sixties, when limitations to the casting process meant it was only possible to produce a wheel around 6in wide. To overcome the problem, manufacturers used a cast alloy center (modern wheels can use a center CNC-machined from billet alloy) and then bolted on spun-aluminum inner and outer rims to form a three-piece wheel. By using different-sized inner and outer rims, it was easy to alter the width and offset of the wheel just by bolting on different spun-aluminum sections.

It’s also possible to have a two-piece split-rim. This is where the center also includes the inner or outer lip as part of the same piece. A spun aluminum outer or inner (sometimes cast) is then bolted to the center to form the completed wheel.

Centre-lock rims use drive-pegs in the hub face to provide drive to the wheels

Centre-Locks

Unlike conventional wheels, center-lock rims don’t take their drive from the wheel studs. Instead, they feature either a splined center or drive-pegs that slot into the back of the rim. A center-locking nut then holds the wheel to the hub. This allows for a very precise and very quick wheel change. As a result, it makes them ideal for motorsport applications.

Check out which is the best alloy wheel cleaner in our test.

The post Alloy Wheels Guide: How and Why Change Your Wheels appeared first on Fast Car.

When modifying a car, one of the first things people look at is the suspension. Lowering the car and fitting new wheels to improve the look have been some of most popular tuning upgrades since the dawn of time. Coilovers are the natural progression of any person looking to improve a car’s handling. Offering adjustable ride height, damper rates and other features, they’re the ultimate in car handling. This guide to coilovers will help explain what they are, and why you should consider them.

What are coilovers and what do they do?

A coilover is literally a spring-over-damper suspension unit. The name is a bit misleading though, as most OE suspension is typically coilover at the front. At the rear, they usually feature separate spring and damper units on the rear. But in the performance modifying scene, the term ‘coilover’ is mostly used to refer to suspension, typically aftermarket, that allows for a minimum of ride height adjustment. Most kits also feature some form of damping adjustment too.

Are they all the same?

No. Different manufacturers offer a wide range of setup options. These range from simple height adjustment to camber, castor, high-speed and low-speed compression, high-speed and low-speed rebound, customized spring and damping rates, remote reservoirs, and so on. Each set is usually optimized for a specific application.

What are they made of?

A typical midrange MacPherson strut front coilover features an aluminum top mount (often with spherical bearing and camber adjustment). It also features an external threaded monotube damper with one-way damping adjustment, an upper spring platform, a coilover spring, a lower spring platform with locking collar, and a steel bottom mount. More expensive units feature more damping options, and some even have remote oil reservoirs too.

How do coilovers differ from OEM suspension?

Coilovers nearly always lower the vehicle’s ride height and offer uprated damping.  Designed to improve handling over comfort, they’re usually lighter and more compact.

Why, or when, would you need to upgrade to coilovers?

Addressing a car’s suspension goes hand-in-hand with improving performance. As a result, it should be high on your list of upgrades as coilovers can often provide the perfect answer. Most OE suspension design meet the requirements of people buying new cars, with little interest in tuning. They want comfort and a sensible ride height more than they want optimized handling. OE suspension therefore runs higher and softer and uses compliant rubber mounts. These, however, are not ideal for performance. They also don’t feature any adjustment of either the damping or alignment to allow the owner to set up their car how they want it.

How important is it to get the right type of coilover?

It’s essential that you get the right coilover for your car. This is not only so the kit can fit onto your car’s existing suspension mounting points, but also because they work with the specific weight, height, geometry and steering setup of your car. But even if you could physically fit a any coilover, it’s still not a very good idea. It will likely mean that the shock body length, spring rates and damping characteristics will not be optimised. As a result, it could worsen your car’s handling and ride.

Most performance coilovers are designed to suit each model perfectly. However, tailored settings and fitment can be requested; stance or off-road ride height; ultra-comfortable street car or race-car stiff; compliant rubber OEM-style top mounts or hardcore camber- and castor-adjustable pillow-ball top mounts – it’s up to you.

Quality coilovers will match the damping rate to the spring rates. Altered damper length and stroke ensure you don’t run out of damper travel if you do go for softer springs. Or end up with a car sat too high if you choose a stiffer spring rate. These calculations are made for you when you purchase a kit designed for your car. You just choose ride height and damping rate and let them do the hard work.

What are the limitations of OEM suspension? Do coilovers suffer the same fate?

OEM suspension is extremely durable and strong, but its performance is compromised in favor of providing a comfortable ride and good ground clearance. This means that when you push your car hard in the corners, the suspension can be too soft to limit body roll and to maintain the optimum contact patch of the tires, leading to reduced grip. Also, the time it takes for the suspension to travel through these extremes also makes the car very unresponsive.

By moving to a coilover system, you have total control over the ride height, damping rates and often the geometry setup of your car’s suspension. That means you can tailor it to your driving style.

The drawback is the durability of coilovers can vary. Some can weather the typical British winter. However, some have seized and corroded at the first sign of salt. Choose a set from a reputable company that addresses the longevity issue and has a coilover designed for regular road use.

Are there any downsides to coilovers?

Again, this largely depends on what brand you choose and what you use the car for. Get it wrong and you’ll potentially ruin the ride and handling of your car, but get it right you can set up your car with the perfect compromise of ride and handling with a durable package that will give years of trouble-free performance.

What are the most important things to look out for when buying them?

You should be looking for an established brand offering a high-value product, good after sales support, ideally a minimum 12-month warranty, and a research and development process that results in a high-quality coilover that fits and works as it should. Buy wisely and buy once, as it will be better value in the long run and you’ll get better performance too.

The post Coilovers Guide: What Are They & How Do They Work appeared first on Fast Car.

There are some things in the car world you just take for granted. Gearboxes are the perfect example. Every driver understands how to use them and most car enthusiasts understand what gear to be in for best performance in a given situation. But how many people can actually explain what a gearbox does? Not many, we bet. But that’s perfectly understandable, as not only is it quite a hard thing to understand. But on the face of it, understanding gearboxes doesn’t seem to be any big advantage to even the most ardent car tuning fan.

In reality though, the right choice of gearbox – and we don’t just mean automatic, manual, or the number of gears it has – can have a dramatic transformation on the way your car performs. Read on…

Why would I want to modify or change my gearbox?

People use the old, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’, mantra for gearboxes more than any other part of a car. But the reality is, there are loads of reasons to mess with it.

The most obvious thing is that cars tuned to produce big power figures can break gearboxes, and if you’re smashing boxes regularly enough, swapping or upgrading to a stronger gearbox is better value for money than constantly replacing your standard one.

Gearing is another very good reason. If you want closer-spaced gears to stay in your engine’s power band more easily, or for a higher top speed, or just faster acceleration, a gearbox with altered gear ratios – or even a different number of gears – is the perfect solution and can make a huge difference.

The final reason is simply: because racecar. And by that we really do mean racing. For the instantaneous, full-throttle gear changing needed to be competitive in motorsport, a standard box is rarely up to the task.

Why does my car need a gearbox?

The fact your car accelerates hard but only reaches low speeds in lower gears, and accelerates slowly and can reach high speeds in higher gears, is something we all know and take for granted. But why does that actually happen?

Well, while most of us can’t explain it easily, knowing why is a great way for you to understand how modifying or upgrading your gearbox could massively improve performance. So here goes…

A gearbox is able to multiply and divide engine torque and rpm. The lower the gear, the higher the torque multiplication is, and the bigger the rpm divide is. There’s a couple of exceptions to this. Firstly the 1:1 gear, which is usually 4th or 5th, means the rpm and torque is the same coming out of the gearbox as it is coming in. Secondly, overdrive gears divide the torque but multiply the rpm instead. While that may sound confusing as hell, describing it in a real world situation makes it easier…

The gears in your imaginary Skyline…

Imagine you own a modified Nissan Skyline GTS-T pushing out 400lb/ft at 4,000rpm – and for the sake of this explanation, this is the rpm we will be looking at in each gear.

Starting at the top, 5th gear is an overdrive gear, meaning gearbox torque output is less than the engine torque output. This means while only 301lb/ ft comes out the gearbox, the rpm is much higher than what the engine is doing – over 5,300rpm – allowing for the car to reach a decent top speed.

Fourth gear is a 1:1 gear, so the 400lb/ft and 4,000rpm that goes into the gearbox comes back out, too.

What about lower gears?

Third is 1.3:1 on a Skyline gearbox, so while output rpm has reduced to just over 3,000rpm (meaning top speed in this gear is lower than previous gears) torque is multiplied to a hefty 520lb/ft, giving the first obvious example of why cars accelerate much harder in lower gears.

In 2nd, things are lower again, with an output rpm barely over half the engine speed, hence the top speed in this gear being around half of what’s possible in the 1:1 4th gear. However, torque output is a massive 772lb/ft, which certainly explains why a car like this can turn its rear tires to smoke in 2nd gear with very little effort.

In 1st, which on this gearbox – like most cars – is incredibly short, output rpm is well under 1,500rpm. Way less than half the engine speed, meaning you’ll be changing up a gear before reaching any significant speed. Torque on the other hand has been multiplied to almost 1,300lb/ft!

The huge torque multiplication in first gear is why even the slowest cars are able to spin the wheels in 1st with a little effort. Even with just 100lb/ft this car would have harder acceleration in 1st than it would in 5th with 400lb/ft. The drawback? The speeds would be much lower.

Understand now? Good…

So now you understand what the gears do, it’s clear to see that, providing you are happy to give up top speed, lower gears will drastically improve your car’s acceleration and punch. And as long as you don’t need all the torque, longer gears can get you the huge top speed you may require.

For many race and rally cars, a middle ground is preferable too, with a longer first gear – almost all production first gears are far too short to serve any performance purpose, and almost all production fifth gears are too long for the same reason. Because of this, a gearbox with a longer 1st, shorter 5th, and nicely spaced gears in between, makes for a very usable gearbox with good acceleration in every gear – and closer than usual gear ratios, making it much easier to stay in the engine’s power band.

What car gearbox types are there?

Go back a few years, and for almost every vehicle on the market there’d be two basic types of gearbox, manual and automatic. But thanks to constantly improving gearbox technology, these days things aren’t that simple, with a number of variations fitted as standard to almost all production cars.

Conventional manual car gearboxes

Almost all of us have experienced driving a car with a manual gearbox, so we don’t need to give a detailed explanation of how they work. But as you know, you change gear by moving the gear stick in the appropriate direction, and each gear is engaged and disengaged using the clutch.

From a performance point of view, being in full control to be able to select any gear you like at any time is a real advantage, as automatic gearboxes often don’t change either up or down a gear exactly when you want. Manual gearboxes allow fast and positive gear changes too. And of course, having full clutch control enables you to adapt your driving style to suit the situation, from smooth, slow gear changes, to hard fast ones when driving at the limit.

Finally, manual means more driver involvement. Which to most people, means more fun!

Conventional automatic car gearboxes

We’re pretty sure all of you know exactly what this is. But in case you’ve lived on a remote desert island all your life, an automatic gearbox is one that changes gear automatically, with no need for you to operate a clutch or even touch the gear lever.

While most auto boxes are intended for smoothness and ease of use rather than performance, some autos fitted to performance cars are far better than the slow-shifting stereotype would have you believe. In fact many shift faster than a conventional manual box.

While leaving the decision of when to change up or down a gear to the car is often not ideal, and certainly not as much fun, the fact you can keep your foot nailed to the throttle while the car changes up a gear is an advantage, and these days many autos have a lot more forward gears than you might think – some as much as eight!

Things get really interesting when you bring tuning into the mix. There are a huge amount of upgrades possible, from typical strength upgrades to manual valve bodies that allow you to change gear manually (like a sequential gearbox) and give a much faster, harder shift too.

Auto boxes are the transmission of choice for drag racing, and upgrades such as transbrakes (which we’ll talk about later) and adjusted stall speeds (which help keep the car in the ideal power band), are popular upgrades. They mean auto transmission drag cars are almost always significantly faster on the drag strip than an otherwise equal manual boxed car.

What is a manumatic car gearbox?

While manumatic isn’t an official term, it’s the best way to sum up this type of gearbox, which is basically a conventional automatic gearbox but with the option of full manual-control via paddles, buttons, or a sequential shifting gear-lever.

In practice it’s often almost impossible to tell the difference on the road between these and the more comfort orientated versions of the clutchless manual gearboxes we describe in the next section. And while, like all automatic gearboxes, some do indeed change faster than most manual gearboxes, even the best manumatic boxes can’t change gear as quickly as the performance orientated clutchless manuals.

While the majority of really high performance vehicles don’t use this setup, some larger ones do, such as the Audi RS6 and many AMG Mercedes for example. These cars want a mix of comfort and performance that most clutchless manuals, and even twin clutch boxes, struggle to achieve.

Another reason cars use manumatics is that some auto-based gearboxes are incredibly strong, so some cars are fitted with them simply as there is no reliable manual gearbox that can hold those power levels!

What is a clutchless manual car transmission?

You can find this type of gearbox in a wide variety of vehicles, but performance cars are the most common beneficiaries due to the lightning fast gear change potential of this style – faster than even the best manually shifted autos.

A clutchless manual actually has a clutch. It just doesn’t have a pedal, as they are simply conventional manual gearboxes with the clutch automatically operated as part of the gearbox system. Examples of this setup in production cars range from the slow-shifting Smartcar box, the clutchless manual boxes in many Alfa Romeos, as well as current Citroëns and Vauxhalls, to the sporty BMW SMG boxes, right up to the ultra-fast shifting boxes in some Ferraris, Aston Martins, Lamborghinis and the Lexus LFA supercar.

The main disadvantage of this type of gearbox is, no matter how clever the ECU that controls it is, they’re not mind readers. So the systems tend to either be super smooth but useless in performance terms, such as the Smartcar box. Or insanely fast shifting (150 milliseconds in the Ferrari Enzo and a reported 55 milliseconds in the one fitted to the Lamborghini Aventador!), but jerky during low speed driving. In fact, many of you will have seen various Top Gear presenters moaning about certain ‘flappy paddle’ gearboxes for this very reason.

What is a twin-clutch car gearbox?

First used in Porsche Le Mans racers and Audi Group B rally cars in the early 80s, manufacturers use various three letter acronyms – DSG, DCT, PDK, MCT, LDF and more – to refer to twin-clutch gearboxes. All boil down to the same thing though: a very clever version of a clutchless manual that uses two separate clutches, one for odd numbered gears and one for even numbered gears.

The reason for the two separate clutches is what makes twin-clutch gearboxes special. It means the next gear, be it up or down, can be pre-selected by the gearbox, allowing an insanely fast gear change time that’s practically undetectable, with just eight milliseconds for an up-shift quoted for the VW/Audi DSG gearbox. That is over 60 times faster than the 0.5 seconds most conventional manual gear changes take a driver to complete when pushing hard. Which is why twin-clutch equipped cars tend to have better acceleration figures than the otherwise identical manual transmission version of the same car.

With twin-clutch gearboxes fitted to a wide range of high performance cars, such as top Audi and VW performers, and the Nissan GT-R, aftermarket clutch upgrades allowing twin clutch boxes to handle the huge power levels of tuned cars are already widely available too. In fact the Bugatti Veyron’s twin-clutch gearbox can handle over 1,000lb/ft of torque as standard!

What is a CVT car gearbox?

You may never have heard of this type of gearbox, even though there are quite a lot of production cars using this setup, and it’s known as a CVT, which stands for continually variable transmission.

The theory is fantastic. It gives a literally infinite amount of gear ratios between its minimum and maximum settings, allowing the engine to stay at the ideal rpms for peak performance or economy through a wider range of speeds than a normal transmission. But the reality is, for now at least, that CVTs aren’t the best box for a performance car.

We won’t explain exactly how a CVT works as it’s complex and boring, but what it does give is a very smooth, if a bit of a strange-feeling, drive. When we say strange-feeling, you really need to drive one to experience it. But speeds increasing without the revs moving is normal, as is the revs wildly changing regardless of throttle inputs – which to someone used to a manual transmission sounds like a badly slipping clutch.

The feeling is so odd that many current CVT cars have fake gear changes built in to the way the car drives, to make drivers feel like the car is going up and down gears like a conventional automatic, although in reality the box hasn’t got any gears as such.

The future of CVT

Current CVT setups aren’t really tailored for performance use and tend to be a bit unresponsive when driving hard compared to more performance orientated transmissions. But one day, in the not-too-distant future, we’re fairly convinced that the majority of high performance road and racecars will feature CVT boxes.

We’re not joking either. Formula 1 banned CVT transmissions way back in 1994. It was clear that if an F1 team managed to create a viable version for their cars, they would totally dominate the sport with a huge and unfair advantage!

What is a sequential manual car gearbox?

While not something you will find on a production road car, sequential manual boxes are found on almost every high-end motorsport car, and for maximum no-compromise performance it’s currently the ultimate choice.

This type of gearbox is far from refined. In fact they’re noisy as hell and jerky when driving slowly too, hence why you don’t find them on production cars. But as a box that changes up and down as fast as lightning, and can take masses of punishment too, they’re the ones to have.

Gear change speeds are as low as 20 milliseconds, faster than most twin-clutch gearboxes, and they do that while being hugely strong for their size, simple and lightweight too.

Being a sequential box means, of course, you can only go up and down gears one at a time. But in the heat of racing this is usually a good thing, to prevent miss-shifts. You can use a conventional lever, or buttons, or steering wheel mounted paddles to shift a sequential box. And while the cars do have clutches, you only tend to use them to pull off from a standstill. The rest can be done clutchless and often at full throttle.

Words by Stav.

The post Gearbox Guide: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Fast Car.

We’ve said it before, but we’ll say it once more; is it truly modified if it’s sitting on stock car suspension? Now, whether that’s modifying for looks or handling performance, the point is that fitting a simple set of lowering springs is not only one of the oldest mods out there, it’s also one of the most wallet friendly. And that is doubly true if you do the installation bit yourself.

What will I need to install lowering springs?

Perhaps the best thing about lowering springs is that they’re a great mod, especially when you’re on a budget. But remember that not all springs are equal, and in performance terms at least, quality is always the number one concern.

You also need to decide how much you’d like to lower your car, because slamming it to the ground may not always equal racecar-like handling. And, although most performance springs are designed to work well with standard dampers nowadays, that doesn’t mean you’ll want to go too mad. In short, do your due diligence and ask other car owners what works best for them. A bit of friendly advice goes a long way, doesn’t it?

Aside from your usual array of mechanic tools, you’ll also need a jack and axel stands, as well as a set of specialist coil spring compressors. These are crucial for doing the job, in short, you can’t do it without a set. But, kits start from $28/£20.

How to install lowering springs

1. Jack the car up

You know this bit by now, right? Yep, it’s the classic ‘don’t drop a car on yourself and blame me’ bit. Alongside a spot of ‘always wear gloves and goggles, and follow the correct safety procedures’. In other words, you’re working on a big, heavy motor so be sensible. Keep safe.

Once you’ve got your head around that little lot, you can decide on which corner you fancy tackling first. Personally, I like to start on the front. Then, get the car up in the air, secure it on axle stands and pop the wheel off.

2. Identify the car suspension strut

Now, the premise of this job is simple: you just need to replace the standard coil spring with your shiny new lowering spring. Unfortunately, this can’t be done while the suspension is on the car, so the first thing you’ll need to do is remove the whole strut.

The vast majority of cars use MacPherson struts up front. Basically speaking, these are a damper with a spring over the top, held together with a top mount that acts as a pivot point for the steering. Most of the time that’ll be what you’re looking at, but most importantly, you’ll need to know exactly how they’re mounted to the car to remove them.

These will always be held in place at the top and the bottom, but there’s a few variations in the method.

At the top, for the most part at least, they’ll be held with two or three small bolts to the side of the central strut. But some cars (particularly VAG models and Fords) use a large center nut and a plate in the middle.

At the bottom, some struts use a flange, secured by a couple of bolts, that mounts directly into the back of the hub (common on Japanese cars). Others, particularly cars of the European persuasion, have a sleeve set up, where the bottom of the strut slides into a sleeve, or a hole at the back of the hub, which is tightened up with a pinch bolt.

To be honest, it’s all fairly self-explanatory. So, once you know what you’ve got, make a plan, douse the bolts in WD40, and get started.

3. Remove the suspension strut

First, you’ll need to unhook any ABS sensors and brake hoses attached to the shock. These will be clipped or bolted on, so get them whipped off. Then turn your attention to any ARB drop links, these will need to come off too. What you’re looking to do here is simply get everything out of the way leaving the main strut mounted at the top and the bottom.

Now you can support the hub with your jack and start removing the bottom bolt (or bolts). Bear in mind some cars use camber bolts at the bottom, so it’s good practice to mark these with a paint pen to ensure they go back on the same way. Similarly, always make a note of the orientation of the nuts and bolts so they can go back on exactly how you took them off.

Struts mounted directly to the back of the hub tend to be easiest to remove. You simply pop out the bolts, and then the hub will flop forward, leaving the strut dangling from the top. Struts that sit in a sleeve secured with a pinch bolt may take a little more lubrication, persuasion with a lump hammer, or a pry bar to slightly open the sleeve.

Once the strut is free at the bottom, you can move onto the top. Support the strut with a jack (or hold it) and undo the nuts (or center nut) holding it in place. If you’re lucky, you’ll now be able to wiggle the strut free of the car. If it’s still a little too long, and you need to compress the spring slightly to give yourself enough clearance, you can get your spring compressors in there to shorten the strut.

4. Remove the coil spring from the strut

Now you’ve removed your strut, the next job is to get the spring off. As I said, it’s held on by the top mount, so this will have to be removed to free up the spring. First though, this is where you’ll need your compressors to take the tension off the top mount. This is the dangerous part.

The short of it is that this process needs to be respected. There are many horror stories about springs flying off, because many don’t realize that standard coils are held under heavy compression. They then think it’s OK to unbolt the top mount. Broken jaws aplenty!

The truth is, it’s perfectly safe to remove a spring, but it can only be done with proper compressors. That doesn’t include cable ties or your burly mate from the rugby club.

The idea here is to use the compressors (in pairs, one either side) to compress the spring just enough to take the pressure off, enabling you to remove the center nut which holds the top mount in place, without taking your face off.

To undo the mount you may need a deep spanner and a hex key (or a smaller spanner) to stop the damper shaft from spinning. Make a note of the order that the top mount’s components (washers, spacers, bearings bushes) are removed, so they can go back on in the same order.

5. Install your new lowering springs

Once you’ve broken down your strut, you can remove the spring compressors, swap the stock spring for the lowering spring and put the strut back together. Very often you won’t even need to compress the lowering springs because it’ll be significantly shorter.

When it comes to getting the whole lot back on the car, there shouldn’t be too much head-scratching – you have just taken it off after all.

The easiest way to do this, for me anyway, is to bolt in the top first, and then use a jack to lift the hub up to the bottom of the strut, before putting the bolts (or pinch bolt) back in after a liberal helping of copper grease. Of course, it all needs to be tight, but it’s always best to adhere to the factory torque setting for each nut and bolt, to avoid any snapping. Once everything is on and tightened up, go back and check it again.

6. Replacing rear suspension spring

Most of the time the front struts make the rears look a doddle, but as always, it really depends on your car, because there are various configurations.

Some cars (commonly the Jap stuff) use a Chapman strut, a version of the ‘coil-over-spring’ setup we’ve just seen on the front. The only real difference between Chapman and MacPherson struts is that the former don’t need a pivot for steering. They’ll still use top mounts though, so you’ll still need spring compressors to wind down the spring when you break down the strut.

Once again, with these you’ll need to remove the whole strut too, and this will usually be bolted to lower control arms or a subframe on the bottom, and secured at the top either inside the car or under the arch.

The other common type of suspension (discounting the torsion bars common on French cars, which don’t need a coil spring at all) is the separate spring and damper setup.

With these, very often it’s a simple case of dropping the subframe by undoing the bottom of the damper, then the spring can either be wiggled free, or shortened with compressors and then wiggled free. With the old one out, you can slap in the lowering spring, then use a jack to lift the frame to pop the bolt back in. In many cases it’s easiest to change the springs on both sides at the same time by dropping the whole rear frame.

In any case, rear suspension is generally straightforward. Apart from getting your wheel alignment checked when you’re done (as you should always do when swapping suspension), that’s about your lot. Easy, eh? That’s how to install car lowering springs.

Relevant content:

• Guide To Car Suspension
• Coilovers Guide

The post How To Install Lowering Springs appeared first on Fast Car.

A cat-back exhaust is exactly what it says on the tin. It’s the part of your exhaust system that runs from the catalytic converter to the back of your car. It doesn’t matter if it’s a standard system or an aftermarket exhaust upgrade, it’s the bit that includes the mid pipe(s), silencers and back box. Everything after the cat, up to the tailpipe. It’s been an all time favorite car modification since tuning began…

If you happen to be driving a diesel, you will have a diesel particulate filter (DPF) instead of a cat. However, the same principle applies. Cat-back exhaust or DPF-back, we’re looking at the portion of the exhaust which takes care of the gases after they’ve exited the legally required, factory-fitted emission control system.

We guess that this answers the main question, then… but it’s a little un-FC-worthy to leave it there, isn’t it?  So, let’s delve a little deeper into the science, and see why upgrading to a performance cat-back exhaust is almost always a no-brainer.

What is an emission control system?

What is a catalytic convertor (cat)? And what’s a DPF come to think of it? Well, it goes without saying that car manufacturers are under increasing pressure to produce vehicles that churn out smaller volumes of emissions. But this isn’t a new thing. Legislation on what’s coming out of your tailpipe has been tightening up for the last half century. And the clean air regulations imposed by many of the world’s governments is as important to car owners, modifiers and tuners as it is to the manufacturers themselves. Chiefly because it dictates what you legally can and can’t do to your exhaust system. At least if you’d like to drive your car on the road.

The catalytic converter was one of the first control systems for petrol-powered vehicles. These have been around since the 19^th century. However,  it wasn’t until the ‘70s and ‘80s when we started seeing them in the mainstream. Unlike nowadays where it’s all about keeping those CO2 figures acceptable though, cats were rolled out on production cars due to legislation on the type of emissions that all petrol engines produce.

How does a catalytic convertor work?

The main purpose of a cat is to promote a chemical reaction to turn toxic gasses into less harmful emissions. This is why they’re often called a catalyst, because they catalyze the reaction. Petrol engines mostly kick out carbon monoxide (CO) and unburned hydrocarbons (HC) – all the noxious stuff you don’t want to be breathing in.

What your cat does is help these gasses to combine with oxygen to produce carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H20), emissions that won’t kill you quite as quicky. Yep, that’s right, your cat is what makes your car produce CO2 in the first place. But, although we know that CO2 isn’t great for climate change, it’s still far better than the gasses that every petrol engine on the planet would produce without a catalyst in place. Here in the UK at least, this is why every car registered after 1993 must have a cat to pass an MOT emissions test.

How does a diesel particulate filter work?

As you can imagine, regulations for those dirty diesels are even more stringent. Every oil burner has been fitted with a DPF since 2013, and if you get caught without your fitted, you’ll earn yourself an instant £1000 fine. It’s not just the emissions that are scrutinized during your MOT, either. The tester has to actually see your DPF in place for you to pass. Random roadside testing is also common all around the UK.

Now, although a DPF works in a different way, you can think of it like a cat. The clue is in the name here, a DPF is basically a big filter to designed to catch the soot produced by the diesel engine. It then goes through a re-generation cycle to burn off the heavy particulates before they’re released. In this way a DPF will remove 85-95% of the soot from your emissions.

You’ll find your cat or DPF either on the downpipe or underneath the vehicle, but they’ll always be close to the engine. The reason for this is because they need to get extremely hot to work effectively – around 400 DegC for a cat, and 600 DegC for a DPF.  They’re also relatively expensive parts, much more so than the rest of the system. This is why the cat-back or DPF-back portion is the easiest and most cost-effective part to replace with a performance upgrade.

Why are de-cat pipes and DPF-deletes legal?

On the road, they’re not. But it’s perfectly legal to sell these tuning upgrades and to fit them for use elsewhere.

By nature, both cats and DPFs are the most restrictive parts in your exhaust system. So an easy way of getting more power is simply to remove them altogether. That’s all a ‘delete’ does; get rid of the restriction using a free-flowing pipe.

The reason they’re legal for racing is simply a numbers game. There are roughly 1.4 billion cars on the road globally,  so you and 20-of your closest pals buzzing around Silverstone for a few hours on the odd track day isn’t going to make too much of a difference in comparison.